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HA
'SSI

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tHB

Statistical account

SCOTLAND.

THE

STATISTICAL ACCOUNT

SCOTLAND.

PRAWN UP FROM THE COMMUNiqATIONS '

OFTHf

MINISTERS

OF TBI

PIFFERENT PARISHES,

Bt Sn JOHN SINCLAIR, Bart.

VOLUME EIGHTH.

^ Aicuffiluim if rtfublka Jamban^ a^ eft m^e reapuUiem^

I Cicmo, de Orat. lib. iL

EDINBURGH:

niKTED AVB SOLD )IT WILLIAM CRBECH;

AN!) ALSO SOLD BT J. DONALDSOM| A. QUTVOJU^ W* LAIMO/AND JO. ANO

J A. FAIR BAIRN, U>INBURGfi> T. CAOBLL, J. DXBRXTT, AMD J.

SBWALL| LONOON^ DUNLOt AMD WILSON, GLASGOW ;

ANGUS AND SON, ABBROKIM.

IfOCCiZCUZ.

- « Kpnu Name of the parifii«

> ' \

nt % Dornoch,

I a Eckford,

D 3 Gigha and Cara,

4 Ladykirk, - •

5 Douglas, . - -

6 Tiwcedfmuir,

7 Kilmaitin, - •
^ Auchtcrtoid,

9 Carluke,
10 Catjlibay,
il Newbnrghy • *

1 2 Dundee, . • •

13 Cr^'mdale,

J4 Touffh, • ' -

XS .StiiUng, - -

X6 Keicoa, ...

X7 4pple|^b» 7

xS Bcith, . 1 •

X9 Guthrie, . . «

^o Glenorchy and Imlhail,

^x Cricch, - - -

4:| Dnffus, . » •

JI3 Dumbaroyt

^4 Kiimalie,

%S Torryburn,

9i Ferry-Port-on-Cnig,

ay Logic, ...

a8 Cadder, ...

99 Muthi), ...

30 Moy and Dalaroffici

3X Lefly, . - -

3» Hawidc,

33 CUtt, ...

34 Drymen,
3j EdenkeilHe,

36 Monxyaird and Strowaiit

37 Kilbride, in Arran,

38 14oonsie,

39 Symington,

40 Alloa, ...

CONTENTS.

Population in X755,
Increafe,

7»,948

Ditto

jlncreafe

Dec.

ini79>3

aj4i

- -

439

95»

- -

?3«

614

XOO

500

104

- -

Ii7i5

- -

«94

aa7

- .

X70

x»537

387

334

- -

i,730

171

1.950

469

•

1,^64

317

- -

»3.500

11,013

3,oco

- -

560

. .

4,698

747

•

X.600

789

. -

741

X56

a,87»

'808

571

. •

1,669

1.730

ft5

X^JOO

179

i,»3«

'486

4,03X

938

•

X,6oo

'87^

a54

4*5

1.767

619

4,948

"46

. •

x,8i3

xio

•

392

•

1,918

fti5

- -

4»5

«34

1,607

• •

X,i8i

x,8oo

357

. .

1,015

- •

4J5

A»545

1,176

X7I

. .

" 78

3©7

4.801

. .

tfiU

87,006

18,875

4,8x7

7».948

4,817

M,0i8

I4,«58

^g«

X
16

7*
7*
86

X41

X70
X9»
15 X
i6x

a7{
19)
310
3x4
1^9
ZIS
36^
384
Aoi

407
448
456

47<2^
474
485
499
511
/»?
51S
546
553
565^
578
583
585
5i^

* Doubts are entertained how far the parifh of Alloa contained fo great %
number, as 58x6 fouls, in X755< but the reader will eafily perceive, that no fair
companion can be made, between the population in X755, and at prcfent, but by
a flria adhercoce to Dr. Webfter's account of the p^TpuhtioD at the former
period.

STATISTICAL ACCOUNT

SCOTLAND.

PART VIII.

N U M B t R I.

iPARlSH OF DORNOCH.

{^County of Sutherland — Pre/bytery of Dornoeb — Synod of
Sutherland and Caitbnefs.')

By the Rev. Mr. JoHH B£TBtTN£.

Origin of the Naffu.

THE town and pariih of Dornoeb derive th^ir name from
the Gaelic words Dom-Eicb^ which fignifies a borfe\
Jbt>t or bo^s concerning which the current tradition is as fol«
lows: About the year iaj9i t^e Danes and Norwegians^ hav-
ing made a defcent on this coaft» were attacked by William,
Thane or Earl of Sfutherland, a quarter of a mile to the eaft*
ward of this town. Here the Daniih general was flain, and
his army beaten, and forced to retire to their ikipsi which
were not far diflant. The Thane of Sutherland greatly figna«
lized himfelf upon this occaiion ; and appears, by his perfonal
valour and exertion, to have contributed very much to deter«
mine the fate of the day. While he fingled out the Daniih
general, and gallantly fought his way onward, the Thane
beiog, by fome accident, difarmed, felzed the leg of a horfe,
which lay on the ground, and with that difpatchcd his ad«
Vol, VIII. A vcrfary.

ir Statijlical Account

verfary.' In honour rf this exploit, and of the weapon with
which it was atchieved, this phce received the name oi Dom^
eicbf or Dornoch, as it is now called *•

Situation^ Extent^ Surface^ Scfil^ CUf7ia^e^&ic. — Dornoch is the
prefbjtery feat ; and, alternately with Thurfo in Caithnefs,
that of the fynod. The burgh of Tain, in Rofsfliire, flands
on the fouth fide of the frith, dire6^1y oppofite to Dornoch ;
and three computed miles to the weft ward of both, where the
frith becomes pretty narrow, is the Meikle Ferry^ fo called in-
con tradiftin ft ion to another arm of th6 fea, called the Little
Ferry ^ On each fide of the former, there is a large boat for
tranfporiing carriages, horfcs, and other cattle ; as alfo a yawl
for the accommodation of foot paflengers ; but at the Little
Ferry thefe arc found o© the caft fide only. At this ferry,
four hands fexve \ and the fame number at each fide of the
Meikle Ferry. Frequent complaints are heard of both ; an evil
Hot peculiar to thefe ferries, nor likely to be remedied, until
-tliopropv-rty and difpofal of fcch be vefted in the public, in-
flead of private proprietors, whofe ehief ann,' naturally, is to
•have as high a rent as poffible. This parifh extends 9 miles
•fi-om E. to W. along the coaft of the frith of Dornoch | and
»from S. to N. or N. W. about 15 meafured miles. It has a
'confiderable extent of fea caaft, not only upon- the frith of
'Dornoch, but alfo on that of the Little Ferry, which runs
-about 4 juiles up the country on the eaft fide of* the parilhi,
The Diores produce fhellfifh, particularly cockles andmufcles;

but

♦ TfiSs traaition is countenanced by the Urfe-Jb^^ which is ftill retained in the
fiTTtts. of thchurgh. In mqjnory of the. fame event, a ftonc pillar was ereiftcd
on the fpot, fuppQrting at the top a crofs, cncompafled by a' circle, which went
lindc'r the name of the Ead^s Cr»fs. Standing on a fandy hillock, it was
gradoalfy undermined by the winds : fcvcral years ago it tumbled down, and
was.broko to pieces; at prcfcnt, only fcattered fragments of it remain.

-of Dornoch %

bot yield little other benefit to the inhabitants. The fea-
' ware is of little value. There is only one boat's crew of
lifhermeny who are neither Ikilful nor adventurous : they are
therefore wretchedly poor, and of little or no advantage to
the place; while others from Murray and BanfF-fbire, catch
fifli on this coad, and make money, by carrying away the
oody haddocks, fcate, flounders, &c. At the Little Ferry,
•there is an excellent harbour, where ihips lie in perfed fecu«
-rity, after having got over a bar, which runs acrofs the en-
trance. At high water, veiTels of 509 tons burthen may
enter here. At the ihore of Dornoch, too, fmall veflels lie
in fafety, with tolerable weather, as well as near the Meikle
Ferry ; but a formidable bar flretches from the eaftern point
:of the coaft of }3ornoch, almoft quite over to the fouth fide
of the frith, called (from their incefiant noife) the Gizzing
Briggi* The banks forming this bar, are not, however, fo
<;lofely conncded, but ^hat velTels of confiderable burthen
^perhaps 300 tons) may enter, under the dire£tion of a pilot.
The fhores are flat and fandy, and the lands contiguous to
•thena generally level ; but gradually elevated as they approach
the hilly diftri£l$ to the north. The foil is fandy \ the pre-
valence of that quality decreafing in proportion to the diflance
from the ibore. The higher grounds in culture, partake of
mofs ; of the clay kind, there is little in the parifh* The air
here, is pure and falubrious, if we except the immediate
vicinity of a large tnorafs, extending from the town of Dor*
noch upwards of two miles to the weflward, and lying along
the county road. This has been a common. Some years ago,
a fcbeme of divifion was formed, under the authority of the
Court of Seffion : It was accordingly divided among the pr6«
prietors of the adjacent lands, and march ftones fet up ; but
llillit lies undrained, and a nuifance, as before. Soine feeble

A % atxempts

4 Statijiical Account

attempts have been made towards culture at the weftem €&«
tremity of it.

River^ Laiesp Animals^ Minerals^ &c. — Befides the coin^
mon domeftic animals, foxes, badgers, pole-cats, hares, otters,
and rabbits, are found in this pari/h ; alfo eagles, hawks,
jnuirfowl, woodcocks, partridges, plovers and fnipes. The %
river of Evelicks, which falls into the fea near the Meikle
Ferry, affords a few falmon and trouts. The hilly part of
the parifli contains 3 or 4 fmall lakes, in which a variety of
trouts are found. The largeil of thefe lakes may be about a
mile long, and a quarter of a mile broad. One of them
produces a fine red trout, which weighs from 4 pound to i^
pound. The pariih is not deilitute of common (lone quarries*
At Embo there is one of free.ftone. There is no natural
wood of any value. A great quantity of Mofs Fir is found
under ground: It ferves for light to the poorer fort ; and logs
are fometimes dug up, which are ufed even in building. This
fort of timber is remarkably durable. At both the SUbos
there are thriving plantations of jfr, though of no great extent.
At Evelicks, fome -appearances of coa/ have been obferved ;
and about a mile ^to the N. W. of Dornoch is found a very
rich clay. It is extremely hard to dig ; the pick muft go be«
fore the fpade : It remains hard after expofare to the air ;
yet a very ihort carriage makes it run to the codiftency of
fitcb. When ufed in building, it takes an equal quantity of
fand.

jigAculture and Produce. — The crops raifed here, are
oats, bear, peafe, potatoes, and fome beans and rye. About the
year 1758, potatoes became a principal article of provifion
here. Now, they ferve as the chief fubfiftence of the people
^tiring a third part of the y^r ; with many for one half^ and

with

of Dornoch c

with fomc even fot two thirds of the year *. There arc no
field turnips cohivated here ; and fcarce any fowo grafs raifed^
^xc^ept in two or three places, the feats of men of property ;
ivhich are alfo the only inclofures in the parifh. Henccp
the arable ground is» for the greater part, in conilapt tillage.
It is therefore po won4ery that it yields poor crops, in return
for jnupH labour and expence* lime is little known here, as a
manure* The bene^t of it is not underflgod : nor could it
indeed be procured but at a heavy ejcpence ; for though ther^
are (hells, the tenants cannot afford to burn them. Towards
the Ihore, the prevailing crops are hear and peafe\ in the
more inland farms, oati ; and of the laft, different kinds of
white, and of fmall black oats are ufed, according to the va-
rious qualities and circumfiances of the foiU The people find
that great qats quickly degenerate in poor land ; and while
they admit that this is the more fruitful grain, ftill they con-
tend, that the other is, on the whole, more produftive, as be«
' ing more numerous^ ^and yielding more firaw. The average
returns of bear, may be from 5 to 6 ; of oats and peafe,
from 3 to 4. The two laft are fown in April, and reaped,
the peq/if in the end of Auguft, and the qatt in September.
The bear is fown In May, and ripe in Auguft. After a good
crop of potatoes, barley, without any additional manure, is
expected, on the coaft ; but no oats, or very bad, after the
biarley, which is fucceeded by peafe ; and the following feafon,
the land is manured and fown with bear again. In the inland
parts, oats are fown after potatoes. Some farms yield three
pr more crops of oats in fucceffion ; but the fandy foil along

the

* Many poor families, who rent no land, are accommodated by others with
a fpot for this nfeful root, for the fake of the dung, foot, or aihes which
they lay upon it; and this, while it contributes eflentially to the fubfifteoce of
ihc poorer fort, is alfo the moft prevalent mode pra^ifcd here for improTin^
jgid meliorating the foil.

<? Staftjltcal Account

ihe coaft, produces not, in general, any' tolerable crop of
that grain. FaiJowing is not praftifed here, except on the
few inclofed farms already alluded to. Scarce any land is
plowed in autumn, and but little in winter ; the prevailing
opinion being, that early plowing or fowing, anfwers not
with the light and open nature of the foil. Some fmall
tenants, on the coaft, fow no bear till 'about the 20th
of May ; and they are fatisfied if but three weeks intervene
betwixt the firft and fecond plowings. In light foil, fiea/e
arc fown before tilling, and then turned down by the plough j
which feems to anfwer beil, as by that mode, the fcorching
impreflions of the fun and wind are moft effeftually refifted,
and a greater degree of moifture preferved around the feed,
fiven bear is fometimes fown here in the fame manner. This
is the moft extenfively cultivated parifli in the country, yet
there is not an eight part of it in culture. It raifes not, in
ordinary feafons, much more corn than is fufEcient for its in-
habitants, including thofe of the burgh. More black cattle ^
liowever, are reared here, than the parilh requires for tli£
pnrpofes of meat and labour 3 but not fo many horfes as tlic
]»eople employ. A few hogs are reared. In the lower parts
!of the pariih there is little fheep pafture : in the hilly diftrifts,
flocks of th^fe, and here and there, of goats, are kept ; but
jftither confiderable. The ardour for fheep farming has hardly
yet commenced here. The precife proportions of land, in cul-
ture, pafture, &c. is not afcertained. The quantity of pafture
grounds has been coniiderably reduced or dellroyed: the
former, by the gradual culture of fmall fcttlers ; and the
latter, by the general practice of cutting feal and divot^ or

turf*-

Heritors

* This drew "a pleafant fally from an Eoglifli gentleman, feme years ago.
^ferviog a herd of meagre cattle here, gleaning a fcanty fubfiftence on a naked

fpct

6f Dornoch. y

Heritors and jR^«/l^— The bcft arable ground is let at ao u
per acre : This is chiefly inclofed, or in the vicinity of the
burgh. Inferior ground lets at from 8 s. to las. andthe
worft at 4 s. or even lower. The real rent may amount in all
to about 1300 1, or 1400 1. Sterling. The Countefs of Suther*
land is the principal proprietor \ befides whom there are four
beritars, exclufive c^f the proprietors of fmall crofts contigu*
ous to die burgh ; of the laft there are fix. None of the firft
clafs refides conftantly, and but one has hitherto refided ooca*
fionally in the parifli ; another has lately built, and 14 e>cped6((
to fpend fome portion of his time here.

Po/»&rfo«.— Although the rcgifters have not been regular-
ly kept here, it is univerfally believed, that the pcpalation'
bas increafed within the laft 36 years very confiderably, to
the extent, it is fuppofed, of at leaft j'oo. This increafe is
not to be afcribed to any addition from trade or manufadures \
for except two whiUcy diftilleries, and fome Jlax fpun by the
women, no branch of trade whatever is cultivated here. The
increafed population can therefore only be accounted for from
thefe caufes -, that the women j^re prolific, and that by the

fubdiviiioa

fpoC, while evex7 cottage was built of feal, and that<:hed with di^ot, he. ikrcaT*
tically remarlved, that " though Sutherland was not dcllitute oi fiwa Qt grafts
** the people chole to build their houfcs of the latter, and leave their cattle t^
** feed on the former !" This was fetting our management in a light abundantly
Liughable ; yet, the poor people are not fo much to blame, as it was natural
for this faccticiis ftranger to conceive. They arc, in general, very poor, and
have but iinall holdings. They never eipcrienced the advantage of fubftantxal^
or the comfort of commodious dwellings; and did they fet a due value oi^rucli,
they poflels not the means of conftniding them, and indeed h^ve little en*'
conragement* for the undertaking. Small tenants have no leafes here ; little ioi*
provement, tfaercfore^of any kind, can be expeded. In juflice to the proprietors*.
however, it mvft b«Dddc(1| th»( i\ Ull9t Vbcir pt'a^icQ to remove the tepaact

I Statt/iical Account

fubdivifion of farms, and the advancing culture of fmall cfof^ti
and muir ground, the people in general are encouraged t6
marry young. It maj be added, that bj the partial intro*
duAion of inoculation for the fmall-poz, and by the int.
proved treatment of patients under that difeafe, which has of
late years been pretty generally adopted, even by thofe who
are not yet reconciled to inoculation itfelf, many lives have
been faved, and other fatal diforders prevented. Since the
return to Dr. Webfter, however, in 1755, there has been a
decreafe upon the whole, as will appear upon infpefling tht
following table.

Statistical Table of the Parijb of Dornoch m

Length in Englifli miles, - * • ^

Breadth, - - - • - 6'

Population in 1755, - - - ^ ^780

■ — , anno 1791,* , * « 2541
Decreafe, - - " ^39
Average of births, for five years preceding 17911 • 53

■ of marriages, f * * i* i a

Inhabitants

* There maj be upwards of 20 perfons included lo the above number, be-
longing to this parifli, and occafionally refiding in it, who make a prai^ice of
going yearly to the fouth of Scotland to work, during, at leaft, the fummcr and
autumn. There i« alfo included in the above enumeration, a diftri^l fituated in
the bofom of the parilh of Rogart, containing 113 fouls. There is no regifter of
burials kept here, nor would it convey any fatisfaAory information if there
were, bccaufc many families continue to bury here, though they no longer
rdide in the parifh ; while others now refident here, bury elfewhcre.

t AhfraSk o/Baptifms Md Matr'utget^ fur Jive yurs frecedi/t^ 1791.
Years.

2786 » , *

J17S7

1788 - - -

1789 - - -
479^ • * -

264 6>

Baptifnu.

Marriages^

•

■ •

' 11

•

tf DornQck ^

tnhabiunts in the town of Donioch, - 506

I in the countrj, - - ipoS

■ in the diftrid in Rogartt *• X13
Number of families in the town, v. i> 86
——————— in the countrj, - 466

> ' ■■ ■ ' in Rogart difiri^^ - •24

> — members of the Eftablifhed Church, - 2427
■ Seceders, - - - I

■ proprietors refiding^ . ^ (
non*reliding, ^ • j

■ ■ - clergymen, *. - ^ x

Sheri£4epute and clerks - ^ • 2

Number of writers or meflengers, "* - z

p ■ * of fchoolmafters, ^ « • C

I ■ ■ of farmers above 39 L per annum^ - 6

I of (hopkeepers in the burgh, « * 4

fc of fmiths ' - - - t

■■ ■ r of mafons, ' ' '■■ - - - i

» • of houfe carpenters ■ - " 3

' ■ " ' * of poor in the pariih, about - - 90

Annual income of the poor, * * L. 9 o o
Average of perfons who have fettled in the |Mri(h

from other counties tf ^ - * x^

Number of ploughs, * - - - xSj

Real rent> anno s 791 » iii Sterling monej, about L. 1 460 6 6

Difiafes and Fuil^^Tht difeafes moft prevalent hefe, a«
jnong females, feem to be Jlomacb and hyjieric complaints ;
.and among m^les* hotbacbif colics^ rheumativy and fctatic
complaints. All thefe feem to arife from co/i, poor diit^

Vol. VIIL B comfortlefs

\ Vis. Perth, Aberdeen, Mumy, Roff, and Caithneft.

I a Statijlical Account

cotnfortlefs lodgings^ and fcarcity offuet*. The common modtf
of providing for winter firing here, is peculiarlj injuriotM^
to health. During the feafon, in ^rhich the poor people
are employed in carrying it out of the^ hills, they go to the
xnofs, or fo far in their way to^yards it in the evening ; Ke
out in the open air all night, and load their horfes in the
morning. The great diflance, badnefs of the roads, weak*
nefs of their' horfes, and fcantin^fs of pafture, impofe thia cm*
el neceiDty. There is no cart road to the mofs, peat and turf
being carried by means of an aukward apparatus, on the backs
of fmall, half-flarved horfes. In one or two diftrifis of the
parifli, the people begin to fee the abfurdity of this pradice,
^nd have a&ually made fome attempts towards a better
within the laft two years \ but nothing like a competent road
h^s yet been executed.

Roads and Bridges. — ^Nature has In&de the public roads here
paffable : they owe little to induftry or police ; the ftatute
labour has occafionally been exa£ted, but it has not been
applied with that conftancy and vigour, which would ren-
der It efficient. A commutation of it appears to be now in
contemplation, among the proprietors of this and fome other
fiorthcm counties. This parifli is deftitute of bridges; the
want of one is particularly felt at the river of Evelicks,
tvhich is often not paffable in winter. A piece of ground,
in the vicinity of Dornoch, is f^id to have been deftined by a
former public fpirited proprietor, for the purpofe of uphold-
ing a bridge on this river, and to have been left by him, uii^.
der the adminiftration of the proprietor of a neighbouring eftate.
Whether there are any authentic documents extant, to cfta-

blifli

* There are no well authenticated inftanctfs of eXtrSordioary locgCfity.r
Some, however, live to the a^e of 80, and fome 90 years.

vf Dornoch* ' .i i

VMtk this fact, IB not known. At prefent, the field alluded
to is held in property, ia the fame manner as the reft of the
cftate, with which it has been fo long conne6led ; the prefent
proprietor having purchafed the whokf without anj refcrva-.
tion, from his predeceflbr.

Ecclejiajical State. — ^There arc no feiElaries here, at lead
CIO avowed feceders from the eftabliihed church ; one man
only, who is not a native of the pariih, declines joining in the
public religious fervices. The ftipend is 80 bolls of bear,
and 700 merks Scotch, including communion elements. The
glebe is confiderably under the legal ftandard. The manfe
was built about 16 years ago, but was never fubftantially ex-
ecuted, or properly finilhed, and therefore (lands in need of
repairs. Three aifles of the ancient cathedral, form the pre-*
fent church ; the fourth has been long in ruins. The church
has undergone different repairs, and at a confiderable expence.
The Countefs of Sutherland*, is patron. Meft of the fanri-
lies, of any diftin£lioD, connefted with the pariib, continue to

B % bury

* The family 'burying phce is wlthla the charch. A neat monument has
l>een eredted over it to the memory of the lad Earl and Countefs of Suther-
land, the parents of the prefent Countefs, who both died in the flower of youth,
within ten days of each other, at Bath, and were buried in one grave in the
church at Holyrood-houfe, annx) 1766. His Lordihip had only attained the age
of 31, and her Ladyfhip that of 26 years. T^is amiable pair were not iefs en-
nobled by their fliining virtues, ^than by their high rank. Their humane dif-
pofitionsand condefcending manners had greatly endeared them to all orders of
ibciety. No wonder, then, that their untimely death was deeply felt, and uni-
^erfally deplored. The monument bears the following infcription, borrowed
^m David's affcdlippate lamentation over Saul and Jonatban :
" They were lovely and pleafant

" in their lives,
** And, in their deuth, they were
" not divided*

1^ StatifticaJ Account

burj withm the church*. In feme metfure to . remedj fehri
sioifaQce, the church was lofted fome years ago, at the heigfal
of about feven feet from the ground. To this upper ftorj,
which is the prefent pkce of worihip, the aibeot is bj ftatra
from without, the open area underneath ftill ferving as a bn^
ijiug ground. Notwithftanding this improvement, which ia
a coafiderable one, the church is, from its yaft extlent and
ftupenduoBs height, a very incompetent houfe of worfhipi^
being e^treme^ cold^ and beyon4 the powets of an ordinary
voicef.

* Afound the citbednl it tbe chv^-yard, wxthont any foce, and in tftie
centre of the burgh, h it the market place. The county road runs through it.
Some years ago» the heritors of the pariih and magiftrates of the burgh, enter-
ed into a refblution to prohibit all farther burying there. A piece of ground^^
without the town, was accordingly marl^ed out for that nfe. A day was fixed,
beyond which no perfon wat to be admitted to the old gixmnda ^uxd public in-
timations, to that purpofe, repeatedly made. 3ot the prejudicet of the people
prevailed, and the projed was relin^uiihed.

t Dornoch wat formerly the feat of the Bifliop of Cattiiufi. The pVeciie time
ti theeredion of the fee is not afcertained. Andrew, Biftop of Caithnels, ia
witness to a donation by David !. to the monaftery of Dunfermline. He waa
biihop here «W0 1150, and is probably the firft of whom there is any authentic
account. In the 1%%% was confecrated biihop here, GUiirt Murray; who,,
while yet a young man, and a canon of the church of Muray^ greatly diftinguifh-^
cd himfelf in behalf of the independence of the Scottiih church. Attempts ha4
been made to bring the cleigy of that church, under the juriididion of the Arch-
biibop of TorL The projed was not only patronized by the King of England,
but fayoured by the Pope's legate, .who held a convention on the fubjed at
Northampton, in prefence of the Kings of England and Scotland, muu ii;6.
Gilbert was one of the inferior clergy, who attended the Scouilh bilhops cited
by the legate on this occaiion. After the legate had addreiTed a fpecch to the
convention, warmly recommending the meafure in contemplation, a long filence
cnfued, the bilhops of Scotland being intimidated by the legate's prefence and
authority. At length, Gilbert Murray arofe, and^aiTerted the independence of
hu cburcl^i >A tenw ef (uch manly dctennioation, and vigorous eloquence, as at

puce

Jpoor.-^The poor^ rtll of this parifli generally contains
from 80 to io« perfotiB. There is too fund for their fuppoft

but

once revived the connge of his afTodatet, and extorted the applaofc of his td«
▼eriaries ; whereupon the legate, apprehending that ht had fpoken the pre-
^aifing ftetitnehtt of has covntry, broke up the aflembly • The yonng orator
wasi on his return hornet untverlaUf careflied, and afterwards promoted to the
fee of Caithnefs. He built the Cathedral of Dornoch ; died at Scrabfter, in
Caithnefs, where the bifhops had alfu a refidence in X145, so<i ^a^ afterwards
canonised. A ftatne of him is ftijl ihewn in the church here, under the name
of St, ifBkri ; but it istiot entire. The hft bifiiop, Andrew Wood, was tranf*
latedlthv froln the |fles» anno x6te ; and remained till the Rerolution in xi^«
Writers tell ns,that Dvmocb was aUb the feat of one of themonaAeriesof the Trinity^
fXtRtdFriart^ otherwifc called Mathurinei, from their houfe at Paris dedicated to
8t. Mathurine. The great profeifed objed of the inilttucion of this order ap-
pears to have been the redemption of Chriftian captives ; to which purpofc a
third part of thdr revenue is ftid to huvt beet) deftined. '* Tnfia vef Part^*
iays their conftitiition, " r^er^ttur oi ndgaftimem taptiw/um, qui funt mcanerati^
•< ffjide Chri/li, s P^amu,^* Of 1 3 of thefe, which are liidto have fub'liiled in
Gotland at the Reformation, one was at Z>«r/icf£, founded in zi 71 by Sir Patrid;
Murray. Not the Imalleft veHige of the building, however, can now be traced;
the very fite of it is unknown at this day. The lands belonging to the miniftry
of Berwick were giyen to this place, after that city had fallen into the hands of
. the EogHih. Here ilaod the ruins of the bilhop*i caftle, which appears to have
been a (lately and fumptuous edifice. About the year 1567, Gewgt Earl of
Caithnels, who claimed virardibip of iiUxatuUr Earl of Sutherland, then a minor,
had got the perfon of the latter into his poflefiion. A tribe of Murrays, inhabit*
ing this part of the country, who were fimnly attached to the noble family of Su-
therland, and beheld the condud of Caithnels w^th a jealous eye, contrived to get
the minor conveyed from Caithnefs, and put under the protedion of the Earl
ff Hmntljn Caithnels in revenge invaded this country, by his fon J«hn, who
inveftcd the town and CaHle ot Dornoch, of which the Murrays had pofleiTcd
themielves. fievcral ikirmiihes took place with various fooceis. The Murrays,
no longer able to maintain the ground they had occupied, retired to the caftie.
Upon this the mafter of Caithnefs burnt the town and cathedral ; but ftill the
befieged defended themfelves in the caHie for a month longer. At length, how-
ever, they were obliged to capitulate, having undertaken to depart out of Su-
therland within two months, and delivered three hoftages into the hands of the
conquerors. The Murray* fulfilled their engagement ; yet the hoilages wcrj
treacheroufly murdered,

1 4 Statiftical Account

but the Sunday colle£lLons niifed in the church, and fdnall
^nes occafionalljr arifing from delinquencies. Thefe colleftioos
fcarce amount to 7 1. Sterling per annum \ and even from
that, imall falaries are paid to the feflion-clerk and other pa-
rochial officers. Hence it is manifefl, that the poor can derive
from this lource but little relief. Thej therefore colled their
fubfiftence bj wandering from place to place, and from parifii
to pariih *•

Burgh^^-^OTnach was erefted into a royal burgb bj a
charter from Charles I. anno i6a8. The council confifts 6i
15, including the provoft, 4 bailies, a dean of guild, and
treafurer. Bj the conftitution and pra£tice of the burgh, 4
counfellors are annually changed. This is one of five, which
compole what is called the northern diftri^ of burghs. It
has no landed property, nor any other fource of revenue, be-
iides the cuftoms levied at fix annual fairs held here, and
which are on the decline, as indeed the place itfelf is in the
laft ilage of decay. There is no other town or village in the
parifli, and this hardly deferves the name. It contains only
four merchant ihops, fuch as they are. Here, and through--
out the pariih, there are feveral ihoemakers, taylors, weavers
and fmiths, fcarce one of whom lives by thefe profeffions. As
(}iey excel not, fo are they but occafionally employed in them,

being

• In the year 17S1, a fcrcre dearth was experienced here; no lives, how-
ever, were loft from that caufe, though many of the poorer fort endured ex-
treme hardfliip. The managers for the Countels of Sutherland exerted them,
felves laudably forthe fupply and relief of the people. A great quantity of
vidaal was imported into the country by her Ladylhtp's order, and at her
cxpencc. Some fupply was alfo obtained from Government. A betievolent
gentleman at Glafgow, a native of this country, fent a cargo to be fold,
part of it at prime coft, and part of it to be diflributcd gratu among thg

f>f iDornoch. 1 5

f>eing alfo fanners on a fmall fcale. No conclufion there*
fore Could be drawn from an accurate enumeration of them.
The iheriff-fubfiitute and (heriff -clerk of the county, and a
meffenger, alfo refide in the burgh ; which has likewife a poft^
office and parochial fchooL Bat there is oo ph jfician, fur*
geon or apothecary in the town or parifh.

Language. — The popular language Is the Gaelics from
which alfo almoft all the names of the places are manifeftly
derived. In that language, haille fignifies a town. Hence^
T^or-haille^ Kerr-laille^ Eun^baitte^ Skia^haille^* compounded
of that word and others, fignifying, mounts rod, fowl^ wing ;
anfwering to the figure, fituation, or other eircumftances of
thefe places refpe&ively. Some places in the vicinity of
the cathedral, are denominated from the offices of thofe who
formerly held them; as, Croit '« ^Ejptg, Auchintreafuricb^
jiuchintaunter ; u e, the biJbop\ treafurer^s and chanter's
fields. One place, now modernized into Cyderball, was an*
ciently, and ftill is, in the Gaelic, called Shierra* This, ac-
cording to a Daniih gentleman, who lately vifited this place,
fignifies in the language of his country, goat whey quarterfi.

Chara^et.'-^ttx.y frauds and ofience9 againft fociety are
prevalent here as well as elfewhere: little difingenuities^
pilferings, and wilful encroachments, are alfo committed ; but
the more daring ahd atrocious crimes are rarely heard of in
this parifh. The people here, cannot be called induflrious j
but they are tenacious and frngalof what they get. If they
can but live without much exerti6n, they are content to live
fparingly ; and if they relax of their ufual parflmony at fairs
and other occafional meetings,, they know how to make a-
tnends by habitual economy and abflemioufneis. Upon the
whole, they are a quiet, tradable fort of people, and nnder

4 proper

1 6 Statlfiical Account

proper diredion and encouragement, might be emidojed itt
manufadures, with advantage to themfelves and to the coua^*
trj. Too numerous for the neceffarj purpofes of agricttlture«
thej have, at prefent, no other objeft before themi to occupy
their attention, or to excite their induflrj. Their itature is
rather above the middle fize. lliej are altogether unacquaint**
ed with the fea-faring life, nor do the j difcover any great ar«
dour for the army, yet, when they do enter that fervice, they
prove excellent foldiers. The fencible corp3 raifed at dif-
ferent periods, in this country, furnifhed opportunities for af-
certaining this fa£l« Every place where they have been
quartered* will bear teftimony to their good behaviour. They
have approved themfelves to be regular fteady men, patient of
difcipline and fubordination ; fober and exemplary in their
conduA, as foldiers and as men»

Propofed Improvfrnents, ^^Thek may be comprehended un«
der a few heads, viz.«— the abolition of the partial, oppreilive^
and abfurd tax on coals i — the granting of proper leafes and o*
ther liberal conditions from land*holders ; — the introduction of
manufa&ures,— and the eftablilhment of judicious arrangements
for the employment and fupport of the poor. Peats and turf
are carried from fo great a diftance, as to occupy the time of
thofe who have horfes for the purpofe, during a confiderable
portion of the fummer and autumn. This proves a ruinous
burthen to the tenants, who are obliged, on that account, to
keep many more horfes than the purpofes of agriculture re-
quire ; and although the making of roada and the ufe of carts^
might in a good degree alleviate the evil, the remedy would
be but partial, efpecially with regard to thofe who are lituat-*
ed fartheft off from the hills* Of thefe, fuch as have £tvt
horfes, or none, buy their firing at an extravagant rate iron!
the others, and fometimes cannot procure it on any terms* A'

»7

tf Dornvcbk ij

Viy manufaAurers fettled here, would (land, in this refped, in
the like predicament. The poor, who cannot afford to buy,
are in a miferable fitnation. They have to go a great waj
tocoIle£k burdens of wbins^ broom^ \ic. ; nor does the drj dang
that lies fcattered on the fields efcape them. To meliorate
the condition at once of the land and of the tenants, it is tv\»-
denty that fuch very ftnall poiTeffions as many of them have,
ihoold not be permitted to exift. In the prefient ftate of the
country, they would not furnifli a comfortable fabfiftence, if
they had them for nothing. There are, indeed, fix large
farms in the pariOi, from 30 1. to 90 1. Sterling, rent. There
are alfo fome others, of competent fize, under the firft men-
lioned fum : Bac m,any fmall tenants are crowded into one
•poiTeiEon, and others fettled on fmall detached portions, a}«
together inadequate to their fupport. Each of thefe has hia
plough, however poorly provided of cattle ; it is but little
fervice tbey are fit to perform, and that little they cannot do
from the fmallnefs of their holdings. The granting of long leafes^
to poor people, in thefe circumftances, appears not advifable,
becaufe they are not in a fituation to avail themfelves of them.
Previous to leafes, it would, perhaps, be expedient to pro-
vide otherwifc for the fnpernumerary tenants, that the reft
might be fuitably accommodated : the aged (hould not be dif-
turbed, but the younger fupernumeraries (manufadures being
firft introduced) might, fome of them, be employed in thefe,
and others in the fervice of the tenants* Many of the pre^
fent tenants would make a good exchange by this ; they
would, as the hired fervaots of others, be better fed and
clothed than they now are, and would at the fame time be
.relieved from their prefent folicitude, and refponfibillty to the
landlord. In fad, this is' very much the cafe now among the
fmall tenants : the fervant lodges and fares in tvcrj refpeft as
well as his employer ; the former receives his wages, while
Vol. VIII. C the

4S Statifiical Account

the latter is, perhaps, unable to paj his reoti or to furmft
cattle for his joke* Hereby, alfo, another difficultj under
ivhich the country labours, would probably be removed, viz*
the difficulty of procuring fervants ; This is, in a great mea-
fure, owing to the endlels diriiion and fubdivifion of farms
into trifling poi&ilions, making almoft every man a mailer.
An intelligent, adivt, wealthy farmer, from an improved
country, fet down here and there, would exhibit an example,
at pn«e inftrudive and aaimating. Such a maa^ entering a
competent farm, with a long leafe and other fuitaUe eneou*
xagements^ would ihew the people how to live, and how to
acquire the means of Uving : Meanwhile, they having tlieir
|K^efllons enlarged, aad acquiring the ikill, and adopting the
praftice of fuch a man, would, as their circumftances» improv-
cd, build, inclofe, &c. and being firft taaght and enabled^
would, by and by, a&rd the proprietor a fuitable rent.
With regard to maaufa&ures, .the country contains a fufficieaC
number of inhabitants, and might forniih proper materials for
them. The prices of labour and provifions are, comparatively
fpeaking, moderate, though both have advanced confiderably of
late years*. Large truds of ground in the neighbourhood, have
lately been covered with iheepK Here is a foundation for the
woollen manufadure. The foil here too, appears very fa-
vourable to the railing of flax. Small quantities are raifed
yearly ; it grows well, but from unfl&ilful management im

i^atering,

* The pay ^^ day-labovrers caik hardly ^ afcettained, iht re being few or
fiooe of that defcription here* If they were aflured of conftant employment <.
they might, perhaps^ be found at 6 d. ptr Jof ; occafionally they demand 8 d.
and fometimet I s. In harveft, women get 5 d. Domeftic men fcrvanu have
from 30 1. to 40-8. fer anm, of wages, and woohen fervants from ao s. to 30 9.
and both are on the rife. Both men and women drefs in a ftyle very dlfierent
from what they did 30 years ago ; woollen fhirts, whiqh were then generally
worn by the lower chfsi are laid alidc, and various anicles of finery introduced
SBUMigbothiexes*

ff Dornoch. \§

vmxenngj the want of a mill, and other difficulties, the proRta
mre extremely precarioas, and the whole procefs is fo tedious
and lahoriotts, as now conduced, that little benefit is derived '
from it* To give maniifa&ures, of any kiad, a fair chance
of fuccefs here, a company, compofed of the proprietors of
bnd, and profeffional men,(hould be formed : The latter ealj
are fit to condufil: fnch bufinefe ; and without the proteftion^
the faifluence, and co-operation of the former, they would
have many ^ebvious and ferious difficulties Co contend with.
No where can the poor be on a worfe footing than here. The
principal heritors do not refide in the pariih, and therefore
contribute nothing towards their fupport : Wandering from
one pariih, and from one county to another, the moft needy
ate often overlooked from ignorance of their real circumftan-
ces, while on the other hand, impoftors and fturdy beggars
abufe the generofity and credulity of the public. It is to be
wiihed that ihc poor were univerfally confined to their owt&
parifhes ; that by aiTeflments upon heritors, tenants, and o*
thers, in proportion to their feveral interefts, holdings, and
circumftances, a certain provifion were made for their
fubfifience; and that employment were furniflied them,
fuitable to the meafures of ftren^th and ability, which they
may be found ^o poQefs. This laft fug;ge(ls an additional ar-
gument in favour of noamufaplures, «.as thereby the poor«
at lead many of them, would be made to contribute fome-
what to their own fupport, and the public burthens proper*
tionaljy alleviated. UpQu fome fuch plan, the condition of
the poor would be greatly improved, the public relieved from
jnceilant teazing and frequent impoiition, and the burden fair*
I J divided among all ranks and charaAers, in place of falling
chiefly, or folely upon the humane and benevolent, and oftea
Aofc leaft able to bear it.

C z NUMBER

a 6 St at luteal Account

NUMBER 11.
PARISH OF ECKFORD,

(County f^ Roxburgh or itiviotda/e — Prejbytery o/y^diurgk'^
Synod of Merfe and itiviotdale.')

By the Rev. William Paton, A. M^

Name^ Situation^ and Extent.

THE ancient name of this parifh, as appears from a p^f<T
fage in Sir Richard Baker's Chronicle, was Ackfotth *,
or Aiieforibe. In all modern writings it is ftyled Eckfoord
and Eckford, the original derivation being from the Gaelic or

Celtic,

* *< In the 13th yetr of King Henry the VIIY. and of Jamci V. of Scotland,
■* Anno Domini X5aa, when the Duke of Albany was eftablifhed goTcmor of
** Scotland, he approached the feathem borders with a^n army of 8000 men,
" probably to obferve the motion of the Bngliih upon the confines of Scotland,
" but made no invafion into England; while the Marquis of Dorfet, warden of
■< the caft and middle marches, entered TMotdaU with a number of Englifh
*< forces, burnt all the towns and villages on every iide as he marched north-
** ward, and amongft others Ackforth^ Grimflay, Sefsfoitbe manor, &c.; and
<* upon Good Friday following withdrew back into England with his plunder^
*» amongft which were 4000 head of cattle.**

Baker* s CbromcUfpage 259. Rk^atb*t Border Hi/ory^ page 515 in the note.

Lord Dacres was next year appointed warden general of the borders of Eng-
land oppoiite to Scotland. From the above quotation it would appear, that
Ackforth, now ftyled Eckford, was at that period a place of lomc confequence \
but no other account can be found of its original date.

ef Eckford. 21

Celtic, the ancient language of the whole ifland* The origi«
pal names of manj places in Scotland are ftill retained* with
occafional alterations, probably introduced by the Dano^Salon
dialed. It is {aid to figaify in the Gaelic the Horfe Ford. A
-ford is commonly known to be a (hallow part of a river pro*
per for paflage ; accordingly, at no great diftance from tha
manfe, there is a very (afe ford acrofs the river Tiviot from
S. to N.

The extent of the parilh from N. to S. is fix miles and 3$-
furlongs in length, and from £• to W. 4i miles in. breadth.
It lies in the latitude of 53^ 32^ and longitude of 10^ 6' weft
pf London, according to Mr. Stobie's map of the county^
publiihed in 1770 ; (69^ fiatute miles to a degree). The form
is triangular, or nearly approaching to it* It is feparated bj
Tiviot, oppofite to the church, from the barony of Ormiftcm*
The water Kail runs through it from S. to N. and is emptied
into Tiviot, a little to the eaft of the church. It is nearly at
fn equal di&ance of 4 j- miles from Jedburgh and Kelfo.

Soilj Surface^ Climate and Difeafes. — ^Upon the banks of
the river Tiviot (which runs from weft to eaft through the
county, and empties itfelf into the Tweed at Keifo), the foil
is generally light loam, rifing in gentle eminences fouthward.
It has been originally covered with heath, but by proper cul-
tivation, is now rendered green and fit for pafture. There
are no remarkable hills in this diftrift, nQr any waftc lands,
except Cavertoun Edge, which has been of late chiefly devoted
to the annual horfe races ; although even fome part of that fpot
is in cultivation. Part of Woodend Hill has been lately
planted with firs, and within a few years will afford a beau-
tiful landfcape. The air here is dry and falubrious. Seldom
any epidemics^l difeafcs prevail, excepting the ague, which

yi&tai

22 Statiftical Jlcctmnt

vifits this neighbourhood in the fpriag, occafioned bj the moift
exhalations from the fens, and the eafterly winds from the
Cheviot Hills, at the diftance of a few miles fouthward. The
people are in general health j ; but no inftances of remarkable
longevity have occurred during the ineumbencj of the pre*
fent minifter*

Cultivation and Produce. — A confiderable change in the
mode of agriculture has been introduced within thefe few
years. The Englifli plough univerfally prevails, and % horfes
inftead of 4 oxea and a horfies are now adopted. Raifing
tamips, with the preparation for that crop, fuperfedes fummer
fallowing entirely. They fucceed remarkably well in a dry
and light foil through the whole country. Oats and bafley
are the grains moft commonly fown. Wheat, however, is
now more frequent than formerly, after fallow, turnips and
potatoes ; which laft is much and juftly encouraged for family
ufe, as well as for horfes, cattle and fwine. Peafe, by many
judicious farmers, is not confidered as a profitable crop, fince
broad clover and rye-gra£s have been introduced \ but they
are continued to be fown in fmaUer quantities, to mix with
barley, for the bread of labouring people and cottagers of all
delcriptioDS. The raifing of hemp is dropt here ; but ^hat of
lint is continued, although not in fuch quantities as formerly,
both for family ufe and the public market. It is fold on an
average at ix s. or izs.fer fiooe *• An early kind of oats

waS)

* That which grew at the Wefier Mofs was 1x1 the hlgheft repuution, for the
bluifli caft which it acquired, from the quality of that ftagnated water in which
it wai fteepcd. It fold at about Zj u or z6 s. the ibone. Bat fince that mo&
wai drained (for the purpofe of digging a feam of marie found there), it has loft
that peculiar colonr which enhanced its value. Steeping lint in running water
i$ found prejudicial to flax, defhnidive to fi(h in rivers, and otherwife a great
nnliince„ and accordingly it under very fevere prohibitions bj the juiUces of
pescc.

of Eckford. 2 j

WaSy in 1776, introdaced bj Mr. James Church, tenant in
Mofs-tower, on part of the Duke of Buccleugh's eftate in
this pariih. He raifed them from 60 grains of Poliih oat9»
vrbich he obtained from % friend, and planted in a corner of
one of bis fields about the 14th of June that jear. Thetr
produce turned out very confidexable. Thej have been fown
on bis farm every year fince without degenerating. The foil
inclines to gravel or light loam ; and bj experience thev are
found to anfwer beft on dry land in good heart. Th^ ripen
by a month earlier than common oats, although fown at the
fame time aod upon the fame ground. They muft be cut
down fooner, and not allowed to continue growing until per*.
fedly ripe, as they are more eaiily fhaken than any other
grain* They commonly yield between xi and la ^one of
meal to the boll of oats, which in this country is 5 fulh or
firlots for oats and barley, and 4 firlots for wheat, rye, and
peafe ; fe that upon weighing a boll of thefe oats (including
the weight of the fack), the whole amounted to 2& ftone by
the Kelfo ftandard. The reputation of thefe oats has increafed
fo rapidly, that they are now generally ibwn in this country,
as well as through moft other parts of Scotland, feveral partg
of England, and they have even found their way acrods the
Atlantic to America. The grain of every fort commonly
fown here, is fufRcieot for the confumption of the inhabitants*
Quantities are fold by fample in the weekly markets of Kelfo
and Jedburgh, at the prices then current. * Horfes have of

lat^

♦ Wheat it fown in September, and mofe freqoetitly hi Odof>ef; ryfc mncK
about the fame time ; oats in March and beginning of Aptil ; peafe about the
middle of that month ; barlej froi^ the middle of April to the middle of May \
tuiiupi from the beginning of June to tlie middle of July; harveft conunencei^
in favourable feafons, about the end of Auguft, and generally through the
month of September. The prices of grain and proTifions vary according to cii^
mmftancei and the ftate of the preceding crops ; wheat, at an ayerage^ felU

24 Statijiical Account

late years advanced in price, cfpecially fUch as are fit for buf-
bandrj and carting. Black cattle are generally of a good
fize, being bred from large Englilh bulls. Althougb there are
not any llock. farms, properly fo denominated, in the paiiih,
■particular attention has been paid to the breed of (beep within
thefe few years. Their wool is much finer, and conftquently
is rifing in price, which is from 15 s. to 168. at an average
per ftone. There are 16 lb. of 24 oz. to the pound in the
ilone. Thefale has been very quick, and the demand dill con-
tinues. The inclofing of land with hedge and ditch is now
prevalent, and meets the inclination of the farmer, who finds
his profit and convenience thereby. They allow their land-
lords

at 30 s. the boll nfed in tliis country ; barley from 15 s. to iSs. ; oats, rjs* j
pcafe and rye at i6s. The demand from other pbces frequently makes a con<-
fiderable Mteration in (he market. Oatmeal is always fold by the flone weight,
'tbe f;tme as butcher meat, the medium price about I s. 6d. 16 ftones to » boil ;
.beef ufually 3^ d. the pound; veal, mutton, and lamb, at 3 d.; pork 4d.; geefe
X 8. 6d. ftript of their feathers and ready for ufe ; ducks and hens 8 d ; turkeys %%
6 d.; all at an average. The wages paid to domeftic fenrants haveincreafed much
Unce the improvements in agriculture took place ; a. man receives annually 7 1.
«nd a woman 50 s. with maintenance ; day labourers 8d.; women 6 d.; wrtghts*
'lod.; mafons Is. in fummer, and lod. in winter ; taylors 8d.; turnip hoers and
iiay makers, 8d.; a man for harveft work is., and a woman 9 d., with their
diet. Hinds, who provide their own diet, are allowed a free houfc, grafs fof
"their cow in fummcr, and fodder during winter and fpring, 8 bolls of oats for
tncal, 4 bolls of barley, I boll of peafe for family bread, and i firlot of potatoes
|>knted. £very cottager pays the rent of the houfe by harveft labour, has a
fmall fpot of ground adjoining to the habitation, for furnifbing cabbage and
{>ot-hcxbs, fome potatoes planted in the field, lint fowo, and fometimes potatoes
iDit barley, as far as their dung covers the fur face. Thcic cottagers, with their
Xamilie^ are eagerly dcfired by the farmers, ready at a call upon every emer«
^cncy, employment being given to their children from the age of 8 or 10 years
and upwards^ according to their zefpeiSlive abilities. Since the cultivation of
lurnips became fo uhiverful, thefe cottages are valued at one guinea rent through ^
the year : The family arc provided with turf brought home by their madcn
Tlurfe houfcs arc never left unocc'.:picd, althouj^h reared at the cxpcnce of the
iarmcr.

oj Eckford. 25

lords intereft for fach fums of money as may be neceiTary for
inclofing. Every farm has feveral upon it, generally in a
thriving condition. The rent is from 10 s. to 20 s, per acre.
The numbers of tenants has of late years diminilhed by the
union of feveral fmall polTeflions into one. But to carry oa
the bilfinefs in thefe large farms, a greater number of fervants
is required j fo that this has not had fo much influence in de«
populating the parifli as might have been expef^ed. Accord-
ing to the report of the molt judicious farmers, one half of
their land is laid out in tillage, one four h in turnips, and the
reft in paflure. buch fields as ar« fown with red or broad
clover, and rye-grafs, for hay, continue in that date for one
year, and then are plowed for other crops.

Manure. — ^Two feams of marl, deeply impregnated with
flicUs, were opened, about the year 1777, *^ Eckford Wetter
Mofs, upon the Duke of Buccleugh's eftate, the upper one
of about 8 feet thick, covered with 9 feet of mofs ; the feam
bdow it 7 feet at an average, feparated from the other with a
flratum of clay of 4 feet, without any other intermixture.
The marl is found to fait a light foil, when well fpread
on the furfice, in proportion of 60 or 70 bolls to the
Englifh acre: a ftrong loam requires a larger quantity.
All green crops, fuch as peafe, grafs, clover, &c. receive be-
nefit from it ; and when fpread on pafture ground, in the be-
ginning of winter, and allowed to mellow by frofl, it proves
of very great advantage to the enfuing crop. 1 he meafure
for the boll is a cube, containing 8 cubic feet : it is fold to
the Duke's tenants for 3 d., and to others for 4 d. ; at the dif*
tance of 3 miles for a J d. ; at 5 miles, and all above that, for a d.
the boll. Its excellent quality increafes the demand ; for it
fully gratifies the moft fanguine expc&nions of the farmer
end imprever of land. Lime is alfo much ufed, and with
great advantage, although tranfported from Northumberland,

Vou VIII. P at

26 Stati/iical Account

at the diftance of upwards of 20 miles. A qnarry of lime^
ftone has lately been wrought at about half that diftance«
The experiment has not as yet been fo extenfive as fully tq
afcertain its excellence for the purpofe of hufbandry. The
proprietor (by its demand) has been encouraged to ereft a
draw kiln ; and as it feems to increafe, another kiln is pro*
pofed to be built next feafon.

Proprietors and Rent. — Property has not undergqne any
confiderable change of late in this diftrid, excepting Marle^
field, purchafcd by the Marquis of Tuecddale from William
Nilbet of Dirleton, Efq. along with the eftate of Grubbet.
There are 8 heritors in all : Ouly one refides conilantly, and
another occafionally during part of the fummer feafon. The
valued rent of the diftri^ by the commiffioners of .fupply,
anno 11^2^ is 11130 1. 13 s. 4d. Scotch. The prefent real
rent is 3699 1. 4 s. x d. Sterlmg.

Church — The prefent church was built about the year
1663. It \tas completely repaired and new feated in 1774
and i775f and is now rendered exceedingly convenient. The
manfe was rebuilt in 1775* and is equally commodious. The
o/Eces have been lately repaired. The glebe is ratlier ivoflX\^
even including the pafture gro\ind. Water for the family
ufe is tranfported from the river Tiviot in a water carriage,
there being no fpring in the immediate neighbourhood of the
houfe. Of late, pump wells have been dug in the villages of
Eckford, Wefter Mofs, and Mofs Tower, and fome other
places, which fupply the inhabitants plentifully with that nc-
ceflary article. The living confifls of 35 bolls 3 firlots z
peck and 1 lippies of barley (oi the meafure commonly ufed
in this county, viz. 5 firlots to the boll) \ 23 bolls and 4 (tones
of oatmeal (16 fiones to the boll); )2l. 18 s* 7iVd. Sterlings
in money ; j 1, for communion elements j 4alb. of cheefe,

frota

fif Eckford. 27

from a farm in the pariih, of vicarage tithes, paid regularly
every year, not having be^n commuted ; with a piece of
muirland for the exclufive right of turf, which the minifter
generally occupies yearly, at the diftance of above a mile*
By the late additional expence of livings the prefent incum-'
bent found it neceffaiy. to commence a procefs of augmenta-
tion of ftipend before the Lords Commi (Boners for plantation
of kirks and valuation of temds. Having met with no oppo-
iition therein from his heritors, a decrett of modification was
pronounced ; but as the procefs is not quite finifhed, the a-*
mount of the augmentation cannot as yet be afcertained.
The King is patron. Eckford, from ancient records, feems to
have been a vicarage dependent upon the Abbey of Jedwortb,
commonly called Jedburgh.

Poor. — ^There are no parochial funds, or mortified money
for the poor. Their maintenance arifes from afieffments every
half year^ at what is called a pariih meeting for that purpofe ; '
the one half upon the heritors according to their valued rent,
and the other half upon their tenants according to their prefent
rents, refpeftively. The fum affelTed is levied by a colle&or
appointed for that purpofe, who is allowed, fome gratuity for
making the caft, and levying the money. It is put into the
hands of overfeers for the poor, who diitribute it to thofe per-
fons admitted upon the roll of penfioners, according to the
weekly allowance paid, which varies in proportion to the rifo
and fall of grain* Ferfons claiming this charity, muft have
refided in the pariih for 3 years, without interruption, before
the application is made ; and they are required to fubfcribe a
bond or deed of conveyance, bequeathing their effects to the
heritors at their deceafe, as a check to prevent concealed pro^
perty, or alienating this charity, and to hinder the interfer-
ence of relations in that event. Thefe effeds are feldom es«
afted, and therefore turn out of fmall account to the pariih.

D a ITie

^8 Statifiical Account

The funerals of fuch perfons are commonty ordered ta be dd^
frajed by the meeting. When difeafe or misfortune attacks
any perfon, as during the high price of oatmeal in 178a, and
proper application is made to the meeting for charity, what is
called an interim fupply is granted. There ^re no begging
poor in this diftrifl. The weekly coUeftions in the church,
which are but fmall, are alfo applied to alleviate the wants of
the mod needy as they occur* The number of paupers at
laft inrolment was 24.

5^ioo/.— There is a public fchool, and dwelling houfe for
accommodating the fchoolmafter, kept in repair by the heri-
tors ; the falary was lately augmented, and is at prefent
81. 6 s.. 8 d. yearly. He has a fmall piece of grbund inclofed
for a garden, contiguous to the houfe : his other emoluments
are, 30 s. for coUe&ing poor's rates yearly, fchool-fees
for Engliih, i s. ; i s. 6 d. for writing, 2 s. 6 d ; for arithmetic,
^^f' quarter each 5 for regiilration of each baptifm, 4 d. ; proi-
clamation of a marriage, 1 s. ; eztra£t of a teftimonial for a
fingle perfen, 4 d. ; for a family, 6 d. ; as clerk to the kirk
feilion, I OS. yearly ; befides fome cafual articles. The num-
ber of feholars is from 40 to jcf at an average ; but as the
fchool is not centrical, being towards the weftern limits of the
parifh, fcmie infirm perfons are generally employed to teach
young childien at adiftance (in Caverton and Cefsford) the
Xlngliih language, and the elementary principles of religion
from the catechifm. They are furnifhed with a houfe gratis
from the farmers, and fatisfied for their pains with what
the parents can afford.

Ji/tf/— The fuel commonly nfed in families is coals, whicli
are brought from a diftance of about 20 miles, and feme from
Northumberland. Although in fome parts of the county there
is the appearance of fmall feamsi none of the trials hitherto
nadebave fucceededi nor is it probable they willy without con^

fideraUe

of Telford*

fideraUe ezpence and perfeverance. The common people
make ufe of turf, broom and furze > but thefe two laR have
becsme fcarce, through cultivation of the land that formerly
produced them. Feats are not plentiful, there being no mofTea
but in places where the marl is got ; and this being nearly
exhaufled, the poorer inhabitants muft fufier confiderablj very
foon by the want of this article : and indeed the diftance from
coal is one great reafon that maoufadures have not been
eftablifiied in this country, though wool is in great abundance,
and the neceflaries of life may be obtained for the mod part
at moderate rates*

Pofulation*''^The population in 1756 was about 890 fouk
above the age of 8. It has often varied according to circum-
fiances. An atcurate (late of baptifms cannot be obtained,
as diifenters from the eftablifliment feldom order the names
of their children to be engrofTed ; and the regifter of births,
marriages and burials is not regularly kept, as the pariih
clerk has no allowance for that purpofe. The dues to govern-
ment for thefe are paid on the firft of O&ober yearly ; of thefe
he preferves a memorandum, and afterwards enters them on
the records, according to which the annexed abftrafi* will

fumilh fome idea of the population for ten years paft.

Statif.

f dhjhaB rf Bapajmt^ MarriagS and DtOhi^ during the lajl ten years*

BAPTISMS.

MAR.

BORIALS. 1

Tears.

Males, Fern.

Total. \

Males.

Fern,

Total.

I781

1781

1783

1784

X785

Z7S6

1787

i 8

Z788

1789

1790

6 1 8

TottJ,

88 t 8x , 169 I

.69

^o Statlftical Account

Statiflical Table (if the Parijb of Relaford.

Length in Engliih miles,* * - . g

Breadth, - - - * " 4^^

Population in 1755, - - - 10S3

■ — , anno 1791, - - "91'^

Decreafe, - ' - - 131
Average of births, for ten years preceding 1 791, nearly - 17

■ ■ -"^ of deaths, for ditto, - - - 9

■ I of marriages, - nearly « 7
Number of males, - - - 436

females, - - - 516

— . — males under 10 years of age, - 71

— — females, under ditto, - - - 67

■ families, - - «* 219
■ ■ houfes inhabited - - 211

Ml members of the EftabliQied Church, - 742

*^— Seceders and Relievers, - - 210

■ proprietors refiding, * • 2

non-refiding, - .5

— clergymen, - • X
-^ eftablilhed fchoolmaftets, - i« z

— farmers, - * - - 25

— keepers of alehoufes, . - - - ^
-^ fmiths, mafons, wrights, &c. * • 34

— millers, • -* - , * • 5

— fervants, * - * - 106
poor, - - - - 24

Valued rent in Scotch money^ -* L. 11,130 13 4

Real rent in Sterling, - « 3^99 4 '

Roadst Bridges^ Rivers, fee—There is a turnpike road
from Carlifle to Berwick upon Tweed, Newcaftle, &c. made
at the expence of the county, through the parifh, but kept in

repair

ofEckford. 31

repair I^ the tolU. Statute ld>our, by a late ^fi of parlisi*
menty is commuted a( the rate of 7 s« 6 d. Sterling, for
every joo 1. Scotch of valued rent. Thefe roads are found
\o be of eflential fervice for promoting fpcedy communicatioa
in an inland country- There is an old bridge of one arch over
Kail Water, at Ae Mill of Ecfcford ; the parapet waIIs ar«
tfXLt^ It is laid to have been built by the mo.ney arifiog frona
vacant ftipcuds about the Revolution. There is another over
the fame water, near its conflux with the river Tiviot, built
at the expence of the county, on the great turnpike road.
The fiib ia th^fe riv^ers aire trout and falmon. The trout in
Kail are preferable to thofe in the Tiviot : The falmon come
up the Tiviot at all feafons, but in greater numbers in the
months of September and OBdbery for the purpoCe of fpawning.
The gentlemen of the county have it in agitfitipn to form a
(;anal from Berwick to Ancrum Bridge, up the Tweed, and
to crofs the Tiviot. A fubfcription for defraying the expence
of a furvcy, to be taken by Mr, Whitworth, was lately fet on
foot, and the furvey taken accordingly from Ancrum Bridge,
and eaftward, in the neighbourhood of this place. The com-
mittee appointed for condufting the canal, having abridged
jhe former plan, appointed Mr. Whitworth tp furvey and
give in an eftimate of their hft plan, which was reported to
the meeting of the Michaelmas Head Court on the 14th of
Oftober laft, of which they approved, and appointed the famo
pomnoittee to circulate fubfgription papers* towards raifing th«
neceiTary fund, for carry.bg the work into execution.

Eminent Men. — Sir William Bennet of Grubbet, was born
and refided at Marlefield, in this parifh, the greater part of
\l\% life. He w?s a gentleman of confiderable genius and
learning* It is reported that h^ afforded afiifiance to the lata
Allan Ramfay, in compofing the paftoral comedy of the Gen-
3 ^^«

32 Statiftical Account

de Shepherd, and in fome other poetical proda£lions of thofe
times. He was very jullly refpefted for integrity and bene-
volence ; and indeed the whole family are &id to have been
remarkable for hofpitalitv and public fpirit. Their remains
lie interred in an aifle, adjoining to the church of Eckford, on
the north fide of it, with this infcription over the door :-^
Hoc monumentum Jilt etfuis bene tnerentibus^ ptmendum c^ravii
Dominus Gulielmus Bennet^ Eques Auratus^ Anno Salutis
1724.

Antiquities. ^-^On the fouth of the prcfent village of Ccfs-
ford, the remains of the ancient caflle of that name*, ate yet
to be feen. No date is difcernible to fix the period of its erec*
tion 9 but from thofe parts of the walls yet entire, it appears
to have been a place of coofiderable firength, both from the

thicknefnK

* Hie firft proprietor of this caftle, mentioned in hiftory, was Andrew Kerr,
who obtained the title of Baron of Cefsford, and got a charter of conBrmation
from Archibald Earl Douglas, thereafter iUled Duke of Turenne, Douglas an4
J^ongueville. This charter is dated anno 1446; and in the reign of Queen Eli-
sabeth and James VI. of Scotland, amif 15-0, the laird of Cefsford was made
warden of the Scottifh middle marches * ; it became afterwards one of the titles
of the noble family of Jio$ehirgh, which it fliU continues to be. Such was the (U
tuation of Se^land before the acceflion of James VI. to the throne of England^
that every Baron's houfe was more or lefs fortified, according to the power an4
confequence of its lord, or fituation of his caftle. Thofe efpecially^ at a diftance
from the feat of government, and therefore not under the awe of the law, when
the predatory fyftem prevailed, found it neceflary for their habitations, and plar
ces of reiidence, to be better defended againil the incurfions of the neighbouring
plunderers. Cefsford cafile, therefore, being only at the diftance of 4 or 5 miles
from the Englilh confines, was necefiarily rendered a place of fecurity ; and ac-
cording tu tradition, there was afubterraneous vault for conce*aling both perfons
and goods within its walls, to which acce(s was only got by one aperture, which
was opened or ihut as feemed neceflary by a large (lone with an iron ring in it«
This ftone and ring have been feen by fome perfens ftill alive i but the cntrapc^
to the peel or dungeon is now chocked up with rubbiih.

f>f Eckford. 53

thkknefii of the walls (which are 12 feet at an average) the
▼efl^ges of the battlements on the top, the embrafleurs on the '
fides, and the remains of a furrounding moat, which was pro-
bablj furniihed with water from a fpring above the prefent
£urm houfe. The TOof is entirely gone. The area within
the walls, difcemible, is 39 feet in length, and 20 in breadth ; the
entry to it was probably from the N.£. About 7 or 8 years ago,
in digging for Itones on the farm of Hofpital-land, belonging tQ
the Duke of Roxburgh, the labourers difcovered a tumplus,
in the bottom of which were found two earthen pots ; the one
about 3 feet deep, and x 8 wide; the other rather fmaller;
both containing blackifh duft, and fmall fragments of human
bones : Upon expofure to the external air, thefe veiTels tum-
bled down and could not be preferved *• There have alfo
been found iilver coins of Queen Mary, in good prefervation,
near * the fliephei^d's houfe in Eafier Wooden, where fome
faint veftiges of a tower, it is faid, have been traced. Part of
the walls of a ftrong building were to be feen feveral years
0go at Mofs Tower f, fo denominated from its ancient iitua-
Vol. VIII. E tion

* Near the fite of tlie fcaffoldiog^ ereded on CaTertoD Edfe, for viewing the
mmiDal horfe races, and at a gravel pit on the road between Caverton and '^tUo^
ihere was found a copper yeflel, of about 6 inches diameter, enc)ofiDg an exca-
vated wooden ball ; and in both thefe laft mentioned places, fimilai- parcels of
black duft and fragnoenu of bones were found. Iiy digging for ilones in Wood*
en Hill, in the eftate of the Duke of Buccleugh, to form an indofure for a plan-
tation of firs, two or throe vcflelf of earthen fubftance, of about a foot deep,
were got, containing limiUr duft, and fragments, fuppoled to be of children by
their iise ; and about 4 years ago, in the field called the Do/e/, near the village
of Eckfind, a ftone cofiu), (or fquare ftones eroded, and covered with another
laige one) was feen, containing bones of a large iize.

f From a pa&ge in the Border Hiftory, § it appears, that the Earl of Suflez,
anno 1570, with an Englifli army, burnt and razed this tower, belonging to the

j4 Statijlical Account

lion in ^ntarfti: tfaefe walls are fince pulled down. There
was a chapel in former times towards the eaft of the village
of Cavertoiiy but no veftige remains. A fmall church'-yard is
ftill occupied in fepulture by fome families in the parifli/(and
probftbjy by fome others), whofe anceftors had privilege there ;
and a fpring in the adjacent field, north of the church^yard,
bears the defignation of the Hdly Well^ or Priejts Well. A-
bout a quarter of a mile fouth from the family houfe of the
late Mr. Hall of Haugh-head, fituated on the banks of the Kail,
there is an eminence, feemingly artificial, called Haugb-head
Kipp (the adjacent fields being kyel), of a circular form. It
had formerly been planted round with firs, fome few pt
which arjf fiill remaining : Upon the top of it a plain flat

ftone

XaMoi Bacckagl^ and (SR part of his Orace's efta^e in this jdiftriA. > It is re«
ported to ha^e been occupied by Hepburm Lord BabwtUx but no inficription or
monamental information can bo traced to confirm this tradition. Tho incum-
bent has fecn a medal of the EmpreXs Pavfiina^ that was taken from the heart
of a peat found at Mofs Tower. It was about the iize of a half crown ; the
letters and infcription were very diftind. In Wefler Mofs ol Eckfnrd, nuts,
roots, and pieces of large oak, and other trees, have been dug up ; alfo fome
liomi of the red deer, very largi;, and the ikull of a biliDn.--^inc6 writing the
above, the incumbent Tifited and infpeAtd a place, vulgarly caUed the BlaJk
Diiet which, by its elevation above the eontigvovs plowed field, cannot £ul of
attraAing obfervatiett. It is on a rifisg ground, about iialf a mile from Kail
water, and to the cafl thereof. This tumuhts meafared ay feel over i at its
weftern extremity, where it appeared to have been dag for a fmall fpace* froni
fide to fide 33 fieet. Its whole length is 34a feet ; and at the caftana extremity
k is 42 feet over. It lies in a £red line £. and W. The materiab of which
it is compofed, fo far as can be obferved, are fine loofe movid, intcmuBed wilh
large ftones, covered over with heath, akhoiigh there it none in iu iaunediatc
vicinity. This tumulus, or barrow, is reported to have been a pkce of kfo^
tare in troabkianie times; bat no huaaan bones have as yet bees dug up. In
the year 1349, during the reign of Sdwanl the Hi. of EagUuid, and David
JBtve§ of Scotland, when the Scotch invaded the Englifh borders, 50CO of their
army dropt down dead of the plague, hawjog caught Ae infe&ian> which at
that time raged through the realm of England ; bat whf thcr their bodica wer;
^he^ interred is uoccrta^

of Eckfordi 55

ftone of an ell fquarc» bears an inCcriptiony commemorative of
fome rencounter the proprietor had, with thofe who had taken
▼iolent poileffion of his eftate, and were plowing his fields.
The infcription, fo far as could be talben down on the fpot, is
as follows, viz.

• Here Holy Hall boldly mainuin*d his right,

'Oainft Reef ' plain force armed with lawles mights
For Tuenty Pkughs hames'd in tU their Oear,
Could act his yalient aobl Heart oiakc Fe»i',
But with his fword he cat the formoft Soam,
In two, Hence drove both Pleoghs and
Plcugh-Men home. X6a04

This perhaps may allude to what happened in the reign of
James L of Engtandi when uniformitj of religion was pro-
jeded for both kingdoms^ and, the Common Prajet Book be-
ing intended to be introduced into Scotland, occafioned no
fmaU difturbance for a confidetable time.

CharaQtr^^^\i^ people are in general economical, fober,
induftrious, and contented with their fituations in life ; main-
tain focietj amongCt themfelVes, and with their neighbours ;
are hofpitable to ftrangers who accidentallj come amongft
them ) and are endowed with a liberal fpirit to relieve the di«
ilreffes, and alleviate the miferies of their fellow creatures
upon every emergency, according to their abilities. The only
means of meliorating their condition, is by a prudent and per«
fevering attention to what they can perform ; and, if the pro*
jeded canal, from Berwick up the river Tweed, and part of
. Tiviot, take place, coals and lime, with foreign commodities,
will be obtained at an eaiier rate, and the produce of this
country exported conveniently ; which would be a fortunato
circumftance, not only to this diitrid, but to the whole coun«

£ % Mifcellanious

36 Statijitcal Account

Mi/ceOanioes OifirvattoHs.^^At the diftance of a few yards
from Cefsford Caftle, and to the N« W. of the veftige of the
Moat, there ftands a venerable aih tree, called the Crow ?rr/,
expanding its branches, and covering a eonfiderable furface
with its ihade,! which, though very old, feems as yet in a
healthy ftate. It meafures at the bafe 27 feet 8 inches round
the girth ; at 6 feet upwards, 15 feet ; and at the clift where
the branches (which are thick and ftrong) diverge and fpread,
14 feet 6 inches ; fo that its dianieter, at an average, to the
clift, is 5 leet, and is fuppofed to contain 300 feet of wood.
This tree is of great antiquity, and has been often vifited and
admired by the cUrious-— There are 3 com mills in the dif-
trid, two of them on the Kail, the other on the Tiviot ; one
of Khefe was lately rebuilt, and the machinery properly adapted
for grinding oats, barley and wheat, and for making pot barley.
—-There is a faw mill at Marlefield, on the Kail Water, where
the planution of firs, fit for dales, paling and other purpofes,
are prepscred, and meet with ready fale. There is alfo a fulling
mill on the fame river. — In June laft, a neft of thofe camivor*
ous birds, ufually called hooded crows^ was difcovered by a
ihepherd on the banks of Kail. There were two young ones
in it ; one of which was entirely wbite. By fome inattention
it died j and its remains (lately in the incumbent's polTeilion),
were tranfmitted to a certain virtuofo in Edinburgh, for pre«
fervation in his mufaeum, where it may be feen. There are two
quarries of good free done, one of them at prefent not occu-
pied ; and a fort of grey (late taken from the bed of Kail,
now difufed, being apt to dice, and at any Yate found too
heavy for roofing.

NUMBER

^ Gigba and Cara. 37

NUMBER IIL

PARISH OF GIGHA AND CARA-

{County of ArgyU-^FuJbyttry of Kintyre-^Synod of Argyll^

By tie Rev. Mr. William Fraser.

Origin of the Names.

IN an account of sm expedition of Haco King of Nor-
waj into Scotland, it is mentiooed« that on his waj
to Rintjre, he touched at Gubej (now Gigha), where one
of the priefts, in his train, died, and was buried with
great pomp ; and that fome friars of a certain order at-
tended the funeral with a pall. Gudey^ or Gud-ay^ is inter-
preted *' the Ifland of God." In the Gaelic language thefe
words, <* the Ifland of Gigba^^^ are written EUean Gbia^ and
pronounced Eilean Tia. God's Ifland is written, in Gaelic^
Eilean Dbia, and pronounced, as above, Eilean Tia, Now
as both dbf and gb^ in this language, found like the con-
fonant y in Engliih, people, without attending to the mean-
ing, might take the inflefted cafe, Dbia^ as if it were Gbia^
of which the nominative is Gia^ as Dia is the nominative of
the other word. This change might alfo have proceeded from
religious coniiderations. Though men named, or pointed out,
certain places as belonging to the Deitj, they never called fuch
X^aces direftlj by his name. Thus Eilean Dbia^ or Goi's
Ifland^ might with propriety be applied to a particular iiland
confecrated to the Supreme Being \ but it would be reckoned

both
5

•38 Statiftical Account

both abfurd and impious to call it Dia^ u i. God. Therefore
fuch people, while thej endeavour to keep the analogy of
found, avoided, bj the change of a fingle letter» the charge
of abfurdity and profanation. As to the letters gb^ now
thrown into the middle of the word {Gigha)^ it is onlj done
in imitationi of a particular provincial found, by which fome
pronounce it Giga. The origin of Cara is unknown.

Situation and Extent. — ^This parifii, confiding of two iflands,
Gigha and Cara, forms a part of the iouthern diftriS of Ar-f
gjlUhire, called Kin tyre, from which it is divided by a chan-
nel 3i miles broad. It lies along the weft coail of that dif-
tria, extending nearly from N. E. to S. W. The ifiand of
Oighais about 7 Englifh miles in length, and 2; in breadth.
Proprietors, Mr. M'Neill of Gigha, Mr. McNeill of Galhu
choillie, and Mr. Stevenfon of Airdglamie. South of Gigha,
at the diftance of li mile, lies the ifland of Cara, which ia
near i mile long, and i mile broad. Both iflanda are low,
having few hills, and thofe hardly fo high as the araUe land
on the oppofite coaft of Kintyre. In both^ the foil is fertile,
vegetation quick, and the air falubrious.

' GlOHA.

Appearance^ Soil^ and Coaft. — The eaft fide and both ends
of Gigha, are for the moft part arable. The weft fide and
middle, hilly, but mixed with arable land. The foil in ge«»
neral is a rich loam, with a mixture, in fome places, of fand,
mo(s or clay. The ihore, on the weft fide, is high, rocky
and bold, except near both ends, where there are breakers at
fome diftance from the land. On the eaft fide there are feve«
ral points jutting into the fea, with a few funk rocks, which
render the navigation in fome degree dangerous to ftran-
gers, efpecially at night: In day-light the breakers over

the

of Gigba and Car a. 39

the funk rocks are vifible. Between thefe points, arc feveral
bays and creeks, where fmall veflels can be fafely moored. In
the bay of Airdme'anifii, at the head of which is the church,
there is good holding ground in 5 and 7 fathom water. Be-
tween Gigha and Cara lies Gignlum, a fmall uninhabited
ifland, with a range of breakers and large rocks running S. W,
In the found between this ifland and Gigha, there is a good
anchoring place for large vefTels, which may be conveniently
moored on the Gigulum fide, by means of iron rings fixed in
the rock. The entrance from the weft is between the above
mentioned range of rocks and the ifland of Gigha, and from
^e eaft between Gigolum and Gigha*

Tides, Sea Ware^ Kelpy gtc— The tide runs north ; but
there is no remarkable current near the coaft : nor is it eafy to
afcertain at what rate of knots it runs, being a kind of eddy»
that ftrikes o£F from the rapid current, which runs between
the Mull of Kintyre and the Sound of Hay. It feldom rifes
above 5f or 6 feel ; and that only with a north wind, or in
calm water. With a fouth wind, there is hardly a foot of dif-
ference between high and low water. Tliis is attended with
difadvantages in repairing, loading and unloading large veflels*
It alfo prevents the manufa&uring of kelp to any great ex-
tent; 7 tones, at an average, being the greateft quantity
inade in a ieafon •. There is, however, fuch abundance of
fea ware thrown afhore in ftormy weather, as fufliciently
ferves the inhabitants for the purpofe of manuring their
ground. Though fliell fand abounds in feveral parts of the
ifland, it is never ufed as a manure, being attended with

* Sea ware has not hitherto heen cut annually, but at the end of every 5
years. By gcttiog fo much time to grow, the ^aatity of kdp may be abovt
^% j^m at CTpry cutting of the fea ware.

40 Statiftical Account

znore trouble than fea ware, and having failed the only time
it was tried, owing to a millake in the quantity laid on, and
the nature of the foil on which it was put. To people who
are tenacious of old cuftoms, and averfe to deviate from the
pra£lice of their ancefiors, the want of fucceds in fuch a cafe,
is a more powerful argument againft it, than any thing that
can be advanced in its favour : Therefore it is in vain to
maintain, that this valuable kind of manure is preferable to
wrack, or more permanent in its effeds. There are inexhauftible
banks of another kind of fand, which is ufed in making win-
dow glafs. It is white, very fine, and, when clofely exa-
mined, the particles have a pellucid appearance. Specimens
of the glafs were fent to the proprietor, from the glafs work at
Pumbarton, where, in the courfe of three years, they got
above 600 tons of this fand* The colour of the glals is
greenifh..

Fijb and Fijbing Banim — Shell fi(h are found in great a*
][)undance. They are of a large fize* and excellent quality,
confiding of lobfters, crabs, cockles, and razor fifh (common*
Jy called Jpout Jljb. About two leagues north of Gigha,
there is a hfhing bank lying, N. E. and S. W., near 4 leagues
in length. From the beginning of February to the end of
March, the N. E. end of this bank is frequented by fine
grey cod, weighing, when caught, from 6 to 16 lb. each ;
befides fome ling, large haddocks, and a great number of
fcate and dog fifh. From March till May the S. W. end is
frequented by excellent red cod. This bank had been negleSed
for 20 years, till Mr. M'Neill of Gigha, in 1788, fitted out
I boat by way of trial. In 1789, 2 boats were employed,
and every year fince, from 5 to 8. But their fuccefs has, by
no mepns, been fuch as to encourage the people to perfevere ;
owmg partly to the want of large &iling boats, which woul^

cnzhlp

rf Gigba and Cora. 4 1

enable tbem to fet and raife their long lilies ia tne month 06
March, which is alwajs fiormj, by reafon of the eaft wind^
that fees in periodicallj at that feafon. Another caufe is, the
prefent duty on fait, which is.fo high, and ail the regulations,
refpeding it fo numerous and complex, that« till a change be
made in this branch of the revenue, it is impoffible to carrjit
on the white fiihiiig, in fuch a manner as to becortie extenfive-
\j ufeful, to thofe whofe local fituation is mdft favourable for
it*. The other fifli taken on this coait, are foal, Ijthe, mac-
Vou VIII. F karel,

* There was a g^at fiihtng on this bank formetly, bnt it had been negieded
lor upwards of 20 years, till Mr. M*Neiil of Gigha came to the iiland in 1788^
when X boat and 4 o&en were empli>yed by way df trial In X789, % boats and
% men were employed : during theie t^o ydurs they had littie fuccefs. In
fpring 1 79Q, 5 boats were fitted dut with 4 men in each, befidet fonr addition-
•1 men for faiting and curing. By their ioduftry; 40^0 fiih wtre fent to nuu>
ket. In fpring 1791, 8 boats, with the fame proportion of men, yfixt em-
ployed; and about the fame number of fiih, at the preceding year, were fent to
marlcet. A m^n who had the charge of Mt. M'Nelll'i eftate, puithafed the
fiih at 4 d. each cod ; but,haTing ufed debenture fait the flril )Eear, was obl'ged
tP export the fiih to Ireland, where, after trying different markets, he was at
lait under the neceifity of felling the whole at half the price he had paid, be«
fides other ezpences. The fecbnd ycar^ in otder to avoid ftf ch inconveniendcs,
he pnrchafed fmail fait which paid duty in Scotland, and entitled him to dif-
pofe of his fiih for home confumpt. This cargo iie fold ^t Glafgow^ at the a«^
'ferage price of 6 d. each fiih.

The method ot fiihing the cod is is follows :— They are taken With a long
line, 700 fathoms in length, havipg from 400 t« 50x3 large white tinned hooks.
The bait ufed is the fifli of a large white wilk, called Busluei «r Dtg^wUt^ which
Is foond on a difiereht bank from that whereon the cod is caught. At the
beginning of the fiihing, a dog is killed and fingedi and the fleih^ after rotting %
little, is cut in imall pieces and put into cr^ii* or b«ficet«, made of- hasel wands»
for the pterpofe. I'hefe creels arc fur.k by me^ns of ikones thcown into them.
The fleih of the dog, in its putiid ftate, is laid to attrad the wilk, which crawls
up round the fides of the bkiketi and gcttiiig in at the top, cannot get out a- ,
g^, owing to the ihape of it, which is fomethii!g like that of the wire moufe.
trip. Afttr the firit day's fiihiog, the heads aad entrails of the cod, with fixate.

4t Stati/Ocal Accwnt

lUrel, firathi, euddies, fock filfa (or fim perch), gimet tntf
flounder.

Roaii

aibd <Iog4A, ate ^ into th^ cneb, wbidi an tifited-efierT ixf^ die witki tak-
Ai outt and frcih rait M tiMi iamc kind pot in^ there beiB|f no aaofc occanon for
dof'tfldh.

71^ other fiik cannon the oaaft of Oigfaa, are Ijthe, nadkarel, rod(-fi(h,
(or ica perch) ieath, and coddle. All thefe fireqoene funk rocki near the (hore^
and are taken with a flonC fiflibg-rod* hair line, and a hook, moeoted with
cither a goofif or fta gtlTt white feather, ibmetiinet widi a finall piecd
of aimed white leather. The mJUrt (or yoang feath), ia takes with m
finall rod and line, having a finall hook (or a pio hended in the form of.
» heok), aonnted with o feather aa above. They are fiihed from the rocki a*
king the fliorc. At certain timea of the year, the cuddle ia taken with the fiflv
of the black iknil wiOc, patboiled. The coddk ia taken either with the fly or
^ait all the year. Bvery petibo fifliea for Umfelf o»the rocfci, only the whole
ftrty|oiB in pooodiogthebatt,and<aftittgitintothefea,inoiderto celledn
greater nnmber of the fiih* Aa foeo aa the pounded bait ia dirown in, thelar
heantifiil finall fl(h make their appearance in great numbera^ darting at once
from aU diredioni like the radii of a circle. JLythe, dtc. are only kitted froia
May to Norembcr. Every boat haa 4 men, andeaehboatcatchealxoa»6oto
ioo leatha in as evening* Rock 6ih, or lea perch, are often taken in cieela,rvHiidb^
•refvnkin deep water near the fliore. There are aUb flennden and eelt, bve
ahcy art leUoln canght.

At an atvenge, there aic annnaUy abont 60 of the inhabitanuempbyed i»
the herring flfliing, from Jane till Januarys all thdr wagea are laid ont in por^^
diafing elothea and other neceflariea for themleWea. hloft of them being in*
ttarried,they live all fpring with their paeenta or frienda, which hnrta the inteidb
of both partieat ae^ from die habiu diey acfuire o& board, they aro not mock
inclined to work hard aihore. Thin inconvenience it increa(ed,in proportion m
tfie filhing ia fiicceftfvl ; for, when there ia a good fiAing (m they are paid bf
ihe mooth), their w^ea wiH be le&, and dM period of their ina&ivity proloiig-
od. Por -inftance, if a -yef^el makea her cargo in a month or fix vreeka, flie im»
mediately retnma home, ai^ihe hands are dilcharged, withont any paofpeA oC
fliore employnMnt that feafim. Hence die propriety of giving a fmallbonntf
to the handa caaployed H killing the herring, according^ to the number of bar«
yela, and the time ia which they were takeft; at leaft^ fomedung (honld be
done to make op the diflerence of their wages, when the fiihing ia Ihecefifel:^
And if the fiune were extended to the cod-fia»ing,il would be attended with Te«»
ry happy effedka. In this caTe, all thofe perfons might be ulbfully cttfloToi
torn the beginoing of Febroaryito dM not herring flflung in J«ne»

ff Gigba and Car a. 4}

Rdads Mi Firry^^^Tcm the hartx>ttr of Gignlum lbttn4»
there is an excellenc tine of carriage road* finiflied balf«way
to the north end of the tfland, which will foon be completed the
whole length, to the great convenience of the inhabitants, who
are now beginning to nfe carts, of which there are alreadj fix
inthettand. The ftatnte labour for making roads is converted
into uKMiej at the rate of i s. 6d., or as. for each perfoa
annaallj. Befides this fund, there is a QiiXling in the pound, va«
lued rent, payable over the whole county, by an aft of Parlia-
ment pafled in 1774 ; but the money thus raifed, goes to the
great lines of road (particularly fpecified in that aft) on the
main land ; and aa thefe are ftill incomplete, nothing of the
money exigible by the aft of Parliament, can be applied to o^
dier places ; confequendy the road in Gigba has been carried
on at the ezpence of the principal proprietor* Between
Gigha and the oppofite coaft of Kintyre, there is a regular
ferry and two boats* one in the ifland, and one on the main
land. The diCsdvantage attending this ferxy, is, the want of
m quay on the Kintyre fide, which is fo much expofed to
the ftonu, that in winter it is not eafy to fave a boat^
etherwife than by drawing her up. To diis may be addecl
atiother inconvenience, the want of a proper houfe to accom-
modate people who wait at the ferry. Both thefe inconveni«
encies might be removed at a fmall expeoce, and, if removed*
diat ezpence would foon be refunded. It is with regret it
muft be obferved, that fuch inattention to public convenience
has been, and ftill is, too frequent in the Highlands.

H(M^ and J^«(9m(pj.— Within thefe 4 years, two new
public houfes, each confifting of two floreys and garrets, and
a malt kiln and granary, all with flated roofs, have been built*
iMfides repairs and offices about the old manfe, which die
principal proprietor occnpies as a temporary manfion houfe.

Fa die

)^ 8taf0ical • Account

tbelate indumbent not faking it.a« % legal manft. ' There
were alfo built two (loFe.houfe^j Qi)e at each harbour* a >rew-y
bouftf, and 14 other hopfes. . ^xclufive of the church, • thero
are in all 5 dated houfes, 4 of which are inhabited, Roaad th?
whole iflaody along the iliArei there are excellent flag qaarriest
of a gray and.bluiih colour^ which oan be eafily d.reQedi an4
make good pavement, floorst^ or hearth ftones. Neither lime
nor free flopet at leaft of .good quality, have been dif^overed^
but there i$ abundance of whin fiid grey Hone, fit for buU^^g
haudfome houfes.

Pi^.— The only. fuel here is peats, which are fo fcarce^
that the proprietors are under the neceiSty of allowing the in^
habitants to cut away the furface of pafture, and even meado.w
grounds. In many plapes the rocks have b^en fgalpedi fo as
to make the $gh( very difagref^ble to the, eye, befides the un^
toward confequ^nces to ;he prpprietors, who lofe a great par(
of very good pafture lan^. This, difadyantage mu^ always
increafe, until fom^ pUn is adopted to enable ^he people tgt
purch^fe coals, which an equalising duty at the pit would ef«
fe&uate. Th^ present duty upon th^t nece0ary article,
which is generally thought to be as unprodu£tive to the re*
venue, as it is gri^vo^s to the (ubjeft, is fo uniyerfally repro-
bated, that it is ailonifhing bow it is kept up (o lo,ng. What?
€ver might have ^en the reafpn for adopting fucb a plan of
Jtaxation at firft, it mu(l now be confidei^ed as both abfurd and
opprellive \ to tax people who^ hefides the original price o^
the coals, are obliged to hire yeifels at a great expence to car-
ry them home, w^ile thpfe who are nea^ the coa} works and
fxee from fuch additional expence, pay no duty at all, is par-
tial in the extreme. If confidered in a political view, it wiljl
appear no lefs abfurd \ it is an efiedual bar to the introduce
tion of maj^^f^?^^ ^^9 ^^^ Highlandsj. (to the wapt of

wch

cf Gigba md Cora. 45

irMch arejowmg the frequent emignrtibns tWt take pBce
Crom.that part of the kingdom) and ^ronfequentlj it pteveota
IL number of veflels' from being employed in that trade, which^
in time of peace, would be a means of fupporting many fami*
lie$i and, in cafe of war, a ibnrce of inoreafiog the nwnfier
of thofe brave men, to whofe intrepidity and courage ' Great
Britain owes her cdi\fequence as a maritime power, and her
proiperity as a coi^mercial.nation. .,..,'.

Wood.-^kn^htf inconvenience here, -in' common wilh al!
thte Wefttm files of bcorland, is fhe^ant of Wood. This in*
convenience, however,. may, by due 'attention, be removed ia
this .ifland, fpr it fe^ms to have J?^en .p.pcc well flocked with
lueea. Several oak trunks are dug upia the mofies, and fome
houfe timber, the natural growth of the ifland, dill remains.
Many of the inhabitants remember a good orchard, which
produced excellent apples ; and the place is flill marked by ^>
plaice tree, th^ . oalj oue left of £x that were there in fpriog
lail. About 6djeat5 ago, fome afh trees were planted, and
• few of them likewife remain, fufficiently large for the com«
ipon purpofes of building and farming utenfils *•

* It IS a common opiDion, that wood Tvill |ioft thrive in the We(Um Ulcv of
Scotland. This opinion is ill founded ^d contradided by fads. £ven in the
^mailer ifles there has been plenty of trees once, as appears from the trunks
which are ftill found in their moiTcs. Hence there is good reafon to believe,
that they would ftill gfow, would proprietors perfcverc in making ezperimcntf,
beginning on a fmall fcale, and, by decrees, enlarging their plan as they found
it become fuccefsfal. A^xo the larger iilands, ther^ are undeniable proo&y that
jhcy formerly abounded with wopd ; and that the want of it now, is not owing
to any thing unfavourable in the foil, climate o^ fituation, but wholly to the
negligence of the inhabitants. For, befides the large trees, that are yearly
found in their mofles, there are fine fp routs of oak, afli, and other wood, groiy-
ing in the vallies, or upon the (heltered ddes of the hills, which, in winter, a^e
pegleded and allowed to be eaten up by the cattle. Were fucb places inclofed.

4$ Siatifiicsd AccMta

Farm Mi Iiub/mr9t.—Tkt irnmber of farms to Gigba if
15. They pay frdm 30 1. to ipoL rent each. Alltbefep

except

md f « rntni tn pnfmr rhnn. thrm irmlil In? t fnrnt itnl irf -mnni mi irnr
l«tffi with tcry little cqpcnee*

The advastages refuking frem Ibch inpnyftacnu 10 other phsMb »« «ai>
yKxhXtf acknowledged : Much more ienfiblj would they be fek in rcaoM
UbadB^ where at prelcnt there u not the finalleft twig growing, and whcre^
therefoK^ the jpooter fort of inhaMtanta are obliged to expofe themfettci, hi
ilti8in^opcs4aatH to the hanard of a long mi daogeioM iMivigatioii» in order
to pnrchafe, at a dear rate, what* h^ pr^>er attention» migfac he caiied ^ritWa
ihc ifiaod. On thefe occafiooii they endeavoor to make the moft of their
Voyage, by werloadbg their boaU; and, at this kind of cargo does not ilow
WcH, there it ahrayt too much top weight* which it often attended with &tal
gflpfrOTfiMT* ; infiaacea of which could be -fipecified* Thit ftrnfiirfatiffit deet
ftoold excite proprietert, to adopt every rational phui»lor introdudng int». theft
jflaodt pn article fi> moch wanted* to render the iituatiiQ of the iphahitaniy
comfortable, and* indeed* the only thipg wanting to render thefe iflaadt among
tiie moft deCghtfu! placet in the kingdom to vifit* or retire^to in the fommer.
Ihtare fiimiihed thia article in great abondance formerly* and ftill ofes
ao produce it* ^onhl people hut avail themielvea of her bonnty* by lecnndtng
Jier etfbrtt. Befidea the great advantage of raifing trees lor domefttc ulet» and
the alteration it would make on thefe iflands in point of beauty* it would he a^*
tended with other good effcdt. By inereafing the degree of warmth* it would
quicken vegetation ; it would alio fcreen the fiddt from blading winds ; lava
the com from ihaking ; and* in the winter time* afford ihelter for cattle.

On pbcet diredly ezpofed to the ftormt of the AtUntac ocean* h it pro*
^ble that every attempt to raife trcet will prove abortive. But in places (heU
tered from thofe ilorms* they vnll certainly grow, if care be taken to preferve
them from cattle, and to prevent people from deilroying them. Infread of one
•large plantation, feveial finall dumps might be tried; and where they were
found to thrive, more might be planted ; where they did not* the lofs and ex*
pence would be left felt. Various kindt of trees fliould be tried* and diffsrent
cxperimenu made; inch as raifing them from the feed* tlunning them at thej
^ew^op,and tranfplanting thofe thus raifed at diilerent ages* and into different
foils. Where the ground it marlby* or fo mudi expofed that treet will not
tioae to perfedion* it might be rendered very valuable by raifing lallows, for
which there iiihri^it doDiiid for 8»kisgboopS| aeeU and bfdkctt; aadcould

^ Giilkd and Cora. 47

ttcept 4, mre pofiefled bj two or more tenantt, who, inftetd
of occupjiag each farm in common as formerly, are now be-
ginning not only to divide them from one another by marcli
dikesy bat alfo to fnbdivide each farm, fo that ererj tenant
may have his own ihare marked ont and inclofed. This gives
diem a trite idea of property,* promotes emulation, begets H
fpirit of improvement, and*ftimulates to ioduftry and exertioii*
Thongh averfe to fuch a change at firft, they now begin to
acknowledge the benefit of it ; and the proprietor, who had
ibme trouble, before he ^ould perfnade them to adopt thii
I^n, has the iatisfafiion to find, that thofe who have tried ir^
are fenfible of its advantages, and mending in their circum«
ilaoces.-— Divifion of farms naturally leads to inclofe them %
and thb, befides the advantage of fecuring property, occafions
A degree of flielter and warmth, much wanted in iflands, where
generally the arable land lies along the (bore, and is much
expofed to the ftorm. The old pradlce of raifing earthen
fences, ([which befides the perpetual expehce and labour of re-
pairs, are moll pernicious to the foil), is gradually going into

difttfe

ttMt be nifed than fsflfeleBt to ierre <he iahabiOtfils, ike ovcrpltti misbt be tM
to idvuttgt, amoog the feffek that eooftuitly fre^ent thele UUadt ia thefilh-
log feafont.

If after repeated triab, in low tiaadt, which are much expo&d, it be tdnA
dbat trees Irill not grow, wovld it be ao cztniYagaDt plan, to nOke one or mora
imaU inclofnret with a ftone and Ihne wall, whkh might be railed annuaUj ia
proportion to the growth of the treet, to the height, ai If^ of ao or 50 feet ?
pToprieton of inch iflands, who have handfome fortunes, and reCde on their
«wn propertiea, might, it ia prefnmed, lay oot ft little money yearly on foch s
plan, without being confidered in the light of projedon. If '* the growth oC
" €wo blades of graft, where only one grew before, renders a man moro
* nfefal to his covntry th4n the Whole race of politicians put together,***
how much greater fervice does he perform^ who, by his attention and pubfia
(pint, railes a few tfceiin thofe iflands, where iisl saris now tobcfeeh?

48 StatiJHcal Accoufii

difufe, and in a fhbrt time will be totallj abolilbed* In ordef
to eSefluate this, and to introduce the method of building
flone fenoes, naen have been brought from other countries, to
carry on this ufeful improvement. Since the jear 1788, be^
fides drains *, ditches and hedges, about 1600 falls of dry
fionfi wall have been built : and the (ame work is ilill going
on with great fpirit.

Cultivation and Produce, *^Thcy begin plowing about the
ifl of February, and woik with 4 horfes in a plough. The
principal proprietor, however, works with only 2 horfes, a
method which is now becoming general in feveral parts of
the county f • There are 24 ploughs in the ifland, of which
a are of the low country kind ; the reft aukward and heavy.
Their harrows are all wooden, and generally take 1 horfes to
drag each of them. The teeth (or wooden pins), which wear
fait, muft be made long, in order to be driven through to
lupply the wafte i fo that one is at a lofs to know which is

the

* Great additions maf he made to the arable and pafture ground, by draining^
and by blading and clearing away (lones; and pains are taken, both by example
and advice, to make the inhabitanu fenfible of the advantages arifing from this
lund of improvement. Upon the whole, all the improvements which have been
carried on lince the year 1788, and which have coft upwards of aoool. Sterling,
luve (ontributed greatly to the lnter«ft of both the proprietor and the tenants^

f The barbarous pradice of working with four horfes abrcad, which ftlll pre-
vails in fome parts of the Highlandfi, is laid n.vcr to have obtained here. But
another pra(5Uce, no lefs barbarous, is fometimes ufcd, though not fo common ai
is other places, that is, tying the harrow to the horfe's tail. This is often done
to fave the expence and trouble of harnefs» and fometimes to tame young horfei^,
at they term it, which, indeed, it docs with a vengeance. For the honour of
liuman nature, is well as irom a regard to the fafety and eafe of that noble afiiw
tnal, to which we are fo much indebted for a great ihar6 of the pleafures an4
^nvcnicnces of life, it were to be wiHied that other proprietors would form s
refolutiob, as is now the cafe in Glgba, to put an effedlual (lop to fuch uuelty.
^ A merciful man hath compaflloa on his bead."

of Gigha and Car^t^ 49

die right fide ; box indeed docs it make any great difference
«s to the effefl produced, which fide is ufed. Though thej-
neither pulverize the ground nor cover the grain, the people
prefer tbeoi to iron-pinned harrows, and maintain, that were
they to ufe this latter kind, thej could never raife a good
crop. Such are the efiecls of ignorance and prejudice, two
powerful enemies to improvement in the Highlands .of Scot*
land *• The produce of the ifland, confiding of oats, barley and
potatoes, is more than fufficient for the maintenance of the
iababitlmts f* All kitchen ftuffs may be r^ifed in great a-
bundance and perfefiiout the foil being gdod, and neither
moles nor any continuance of froft to counteraS the exertions
of the gardener. A good quantity of daz is raifed yearly^
which is fpun and fold in yarn; at 2 s. the fpindle« Till late-
VoL, VIH. G ly.

* Thej begin fowing the htter end of March, tnd finilh their harley feed
alioat the beginning of Jun& Barley harveft commences the htter end of
Angnft ; that of oats near the middle of September ; and the whole is finiihed
about the latter end of OSober. As there ip no intenfe froft of any continu-
ance, and as the greater part of the arable land is dry, they might begin to
ploDgh and ibw much earlier, and confcquently their harveil would commence
fooner. They are at great pains in Lcleaning their feed* com, and preparing
Aheir barley ground, which they plough thrice. They have derircd great ad-
vantage of late from foreign corn feed and bear, which was introduced by the
proprietor.

f The Gigha boll is equal to ao pecks Linlithgow meafure. J. aft crop fold
at 14 8. the boll of oats ; 1 1. 1 s. the boll of barley ; 1 8 s. 8 d. the boll of meal
{lO fionc weight); 8 s. the boll of potatoes, mcafurng 4 barrels heaped. Of
the barley, i^obolk (Linlithgow meafure) are diiHllcd in the ifland ; and about
160 bdls, of the £ame meafuKi fent to Campbeltown and other places : Of
potatoes about 1000 barrels are fent out of the country : Of the meal there
will be about lao bolls bought up from the tenants by the proprietor, for the
ufe of liis workmen. Aquavitae fells at 14 s. the gallon; a ftone of cheefei
d4 Ib.f cofts i 8. ; a ftone of butter 10 s.

50 Statijlical Account

Ij, there was no hay made in the ifland ; and indeed there is
hardly any yet, except what the proprietor makes : but as
the people now fee, by the great returns he has had, the be-
nefit of inclofuresy the improvement of fowing grais feeds
is likely foon to foUow.

Black Cattle and Hor/es ^The ifland of Gigha was for-
merly divided into 30 merks land, to eachof which 14 cows
and 4 horfes were allowed : The fame proportion to the ifland
of Cara, confiding of x merk land. According to this me*
thod of calculation, the number is eafily afcertained.

MX. Cows. C<mt. ML. Hor. Hor.

Gigha, - 39X14=420 Gigha, - 30X4=120

Cara, - 1X14= 14, Cara, - 1X4= 4

Cows in the parifliy - 434 Horfes in the parifli, - 1 14

The prefent number, however, of black cattle and horfes far
exceeds this calculation* The black cattle may be reckoned
at leail ^ more. Some fat cows are commonly fent to market
in the beginning of winter, and di*aw from 3I. 15 s. to 5
guineas each. The number of black cattle, fmall and large*
fold annually, will be about 120. Milk cows fell at 4 1. and
^ 1. ; lean cows, in May, draw from 2 1. 10 s. to 3 1. ; heifers
from 1 1. IDS. to al. las. 6d.; ftirks, or year-olds, from
x6 s. to 1 1. I s. Horfes are bought at 3 1. 10 s. and 9 1., ac-
cording to their age and fisLC. The number of horfes annual-
ly bought muft be very fmall. As fome are yearly fold out
of the ifland, it is probable that the number reared is fuffi«
cient for the place.

Sheep and Swine^^-^Tht farms in Gigha are rather confined
for flicep ; and as the common tenants cannot keep them fe«

• parate

^fGigba and Cara^ 5 1

|)ltrate from other cattle, thej are to fell them ofF, it being
found, that when thej are not kept by themfelves, they dege*
nerate, and. prevent the improvement of black cattle ; a thing
too much negleded formerly in this place. But bj this plan,
it is not intended to banifli this ufefal animal from the ifland
altogether. As there are ibme points of land, forming fo
many peninfuke, which can be eafily inclofed, it is meant to
keep a ceruin number of a good kind for the convenience of
mutton, and the improvement of the finer kind of wool. At
prefent the fmall highland kind of mutton fells at 7 s. 8 d.,
lamb at a s. 6 d. or 3 s. — A good many fwine are reared ; but
the damage they^do among the pafture ground is greater than
any advantage they bring. Till fuch time, therefore, as a
proper method of confining and feeding them can be adopted,
it were better to baftifii them altogether, which the proprietor
means to do, uolefs they are kept in a hog fence. They arc
fold at from 16 s. to 1 1. 4 s. A pig cods from z s. 6 d. to
3 s. 6 d., according to its age^

WUd Animals^ p9uhry^ &c. — ^The only deftruftive animal
is a fmall fpecies of wild cat, which feldom comes near the
farm houfes, but keeps near tbe fhore and among oaims, where
it kills rabbits, of which there are many in the. ifland. Rat^
and mice are fometimes troublefome. The amphibious ani-
mals are feals and otters,^ but not very numerous.— There be->
ing no foxes, polecats, weafels, &c. poultry of all kinds are
reared in great plenty* A goofe lells at i s. 6 d.) a good hen
at 6d. ; a chicken at 3d. ; and ft dozen of eggs at 2d. In
winter the ifland is viiited by the fwah and woodcock;
in fummer by the fwallow, comcraik (or cornrail), and cuckoo*
The other birds frequenting it are, wild geefe, ducks, and all
the fpecies of fea fowl common on the weft coail : Pigeons,
plovers, ravens^ hooded crows, darlings, fparrow hawks, and

G % jack

^2 Stati/itcal Account

jack-daws are verj numerous* Of the laft there are twor
kinds ; one with a dark blue head, all the reft black ; another
with red feet, having the body and head black.

Waters. — Though there are neither lakes nor rivers ift
Gigha, it abounds with excellent water, everj farm having
one or more fpring wells in it. On the weft fide of the ifland^
two good mills are fupplied, all winter and fpring, with
water coIle£ted inta a pond from fpring wells; but in
fummer^ the pond is made dry for the purpofe of cutting
peats. — ^There i* a tradition that the country was once nearly
depopulated by a plague, all the people dying except thofe of
one farm, called jirdacha\ or Hrgh Fields where there is %
fpring of water, to the virtue of which was attributed their
fafety. The water of this well is ftill reckoned very fidu-
briouBy though it has nothing peculiar in tafle or colour *.

* It woiiId.be nnpardoDaMe on thU fubjed not to mention the Well of 7«i^
haif called Toiar^rath Bbuatbaig^ i, t. the lycJty ^oeil •/ Beatbag ; a well famous
for haTing die command of the wind. It it fitnated at the foot of a bill front-*
ing the N. E» near an iftumns called Tafbac Sis feet aboire where the water
guihes out, there it a heap of AooeA^ which fonnt a cover ta the facred fount.
XVlien a perfon wilhed for a fair wind, cither to leave the iiland, or to bring
home his abfent friends, this part was opened with great folemnity, the ftonc*
carefully removed, and the well cleaned with a wooden difh or clam flicU. This
being done, the water watfeveral times thrown in the diredion (or art), from
whkh the wiflied for wind was to blow, and this af^on accompanied with acer^
tain form of words, which the perfon repeated every time he threw the water.
When the ceremeny was over, the well. was again carefully ihut up to prevent
fatal confcquenccs ; it being firmly believed, that, were the place left open, it
would occafion a iionn, which would overwhelm the whole ifland. This cere-
mony of cUamng the vfcU, as it is called, is now fcldom or never performed ;
though fkill there are two old women, of the names Galbrcath and Grahan^
who arc faid to have the fccret, but who have caufe to lament the inpdelHy •fthe
•^y as they derive little emolument from their prufcifion^

tf Gigba and Cara. jf J

£*««£# .-*-Tbece are iTevcral caves : The inoft remarkable are
ei»o an the weft fide of the iflaad near the {arm of Afj^iolia'^.^
One of them, called Uaigb Mhor^ or the Larg* Cavif w%s «ri^
ginally 190 feet long. At prefent there is onfy a part of it
coveced^ but fo fiUad up with earth and Aones that it it dif-
ficuU to get into it.: This part ia 86 feet long, and the wft
(which is 104J, forms a grand entrance to it, bjr a hanging
took on the north > fide, 70 feet high, and by another rifing
parallel to it, on the feuth fide, equally high *.— «At a finall
diftaace foatb of* this, is Uaigh^na^n Cohtmfn^ or Pigem^g
dmcj (from thefe birds neftliag there). It is about ^70 feet
]pog, 30 broad, and 40 high. The end, which, likethe^^thor
care, is narrow anddack, is adorned with a beautiftd coating
of fpar, w!hich riins down abng the fide in large ^ins, aoi
(bmetimes in perpendicular tubes. The water wJiich oozoa
through this fubftance, and which forms drops of different
Magnitudes, according to the pores and diametera of the diC-
ferent veins and tubes* has a beautiful appearance with, candle
light* Here are £bme plants reckoned ufefiil. in cettaiprconiir
plaints; particularly cneam^narmuc-Jki^ i.e. wiidbMr's gof^m
/#(Pf,. which is ufed in ftomach complaints.. Its leaf is beaii«i
tiful and long, hanging down from* the fide of the cave. On
the 4th of January, when thefe caves were examined, vagiai*
tation was fo (Irong, that the different plants appeared perfe&^
ly frefli and vigorous. — At the fouth end of the ifland, there
is a fubterraneous pafiage 133 feet long, infb which the fea
runs. About the middle there is an aperture 8 feet long and
a broad. Near the end there is another, to feet long and 4
broad. Round this aperture are large pieces oi rock; one of
which havmg fallen in, and being jammed between the fides^
divides it into two^ and forms a convenient rcfting place for

taking

• Sec the ^tte.

t Or H»/t'i Ttngve^ according to Mr. ShaTv*# Di^ionaiy.

54 .Staliftical Account

taking tbe depth of the chafm, which is here 21 feeti id tli^
middle 3 a, and at the mouth about 40. When there is a furf^
a perpetual mifi iflues from thefe apertures, accompanied with
a tremendous noife, which is occafioned by the rolling of large
fionesy or fragments of the rock that have fallen in, and are
cooftantly kept in motion bj the agitation. of the water. In
time of a wefierlj ftorm, being czpofed to the great fwells
from the Atlantic ocean, the fea ruflies in with fuch violence
as to difcbarge itfelf through thefe openings with a thunder*
ing noife, riiing to an immenfe height, in tbe fotm of inter*
mitting jetts. Hence its name Slot'^-an^Letm^ or Sjtarting
Otve^ literally Jumping PUm The mouth of this cave is only
to be feen at low water ; and the channel leading to it ex*
tends more than 70 feet \ fo that the whole length is upwards
of aoofeet*.

Cairns and HUU.^^^\t\km a few yards of Sloc-an.Leim
there. is a rock, detached from the reft, 36 feet high, 46 long^
and 34 broad on the top ; it was furroundcd with a dry flone^
wall, and is called Cam Ltim^ from its vicinity to the chafm
already mentioned. The country people fay it was a beacon
for dire&ing veflels into the harbour of Gigulum found. A*
bout the centre of the ifland is Dun Chifi, or Ktejiis HiU^

which

* Noftk from th* at a fmall dUbmce is another fubtcrraneoiu paflage, called
Slot^atfT/bhrannan (pronouiced Shk-an-tranan J ^ i. t. Snoruig Pit, from tJlC kind
of noife it makes. It is about 36 feet long, and the chanuel which leads to it
more than 40. At the end there b a very fmall opening (not half an inch
wide), about which there is a quantity of warer always lodged. The condenfed
air below is forced up by every fwell through the fmall openin|^, and occafiont
that bubbling noife in the water, which has occafioncd the name. At the mouth
of thi» chafm, where the channel is 17 feet deep, there is a Urge piece of rock
lying acrofs, which occafionn a jctt here, and the fmall perforation at the end
iquirts alfo in time of ftorm ; fo that it u in minature the lame as Sloc-an-Lcim
--^To the caft of thcle chalms there ;s an appc^iraacc of copper orc«

o/Gtgba and Carak SS

^Mch appears to have been a ftrong fortification. On the
K. W.9 N. and N. £. fides, there is a fteep alcent from 40 to
80 feet. At the top of thb afcent, there is a perpendicakr
rock from 14 to 37 feet high ; the reft is inclofed with a drj
flone wall, 9 feet thick, and from 8 to io feet high. On the
eaft fide there is a fteep afcent of 38 feet, (feemingly cut out
of the rock), leading to the gate, which is four feet wide. la
the middle of this Dun there is an elevation, which commands
a view of the place on all fides, and of the country round. It
is 110 feet long, and 67 broad. Tradition fajs that Keefie,
the King of Lochlin's fon, who occupied this ftrong hold, was
killed there by Diarmad^ one of Fingal's heroes, with whofe
wife he had run awaj. Within fight of Dun Chifi, about a
mile N. £• there is another beautiful little hill,* furrounded
with a dry ftone waU, and rifing in a valley, which happens
to be marihy, whence it has its name, Dunan'an»V^sbeafguin^
(pronounced Dunan an tea/gum)^ i. e. the little hill in the
mar(h* It is a fteep rocky afcent, 95 feet long, 55 broad,
and 36 high, bat level on the top. The gate fronts Dun
Chifi, is 4 feet wide, and the wall 9 feet thick*. At the
northern extremity of the ifland, on the top of a hill, there is
a circular heap of ftones, called Carnfta^/aire^ or Watcb Cairn^
53 feet diameter. It feems to have been a place of fome
ftrength, and intended, as the name implies, to give the alarm
in cafe of an invafion, for it commands a very extenfive view
of the fea from S. W. by N. to S. £. About half an Englifh
mile fouth of Carn^na^Jaire^ on a plain near the fliore, i^

Cam^

* North-weft from Don Chifi, about the fame dtftance, and within fight of
it, there it a pemofula, which waa ftrongly fortified, and was probably occupied
by the fiune people, to fecure their landing or retreat. It it called Trig by the
inhabitants, which it a corruption of the word Treiuh. At a farm called Dntim^
^-Chn^ there it a beaatiful earthen mount, 43 feet long, and 41 broad on the
top. The fidet are a fteep afcent, from 34 to 33 feet. The name and intenr
tion of it arc equally unknown.

$& Stdtijlkal Account

Cam^B^n or Whiu Cairn''^. It is alfo circalar , and meafures.
30 feet in diameter. From the fitaatlon of the place, the
coavenieoce of landiog, and ita vicinity to Cam^a^faire^ it is
likelj that there was an engagement near it, and that the bo«
dies of the flain were buried under the cairn. South weft of
Cirn Ban, at a narrow part of the ifland, called Tarbat, there
is a large fione on end, known bj the name of Csrr^iuu^ar^
larif or tie Pillar 4^ Itariaij: It is near 8 feet high, and,
£rom its inclined pofition, cannot be lefs than 3 feet under
giDiind to prevent its falling.. It was probably fet up to mark
the grave of fome warrior. The common burying place ia
the ifland, is called Oil ChattaUf pronounced KM k"*^*) i« e«
Cattan*s grave, or burying ground. Here are the ruins of
an old chapel, 33 feet long, I4i broad. At the eaft end,
Acre is a long narrow window, in the fols .of which lies a
ftone iontf neatly cut in an odagonal ihape, and perforated im

the

* Three jan ago feveral fione coffins were difcoyered there, bjr dyl:e4>an«
^en. On opening them they found fome urns, one of which is in Mr. Mac-
■ neill of Gigha*s poifeflion, and meafures (on the outfLde) 5} inches in diameter
at top, 2 at the bottom, and 5} in height, made of clay, hard burnt, and in co-
lour bfockilh. The coflKns^ ^ which there arc 4 in the middle of the cairn, ace
nadc up of 4 large flags, forming the bottom, (ides and ooter of each, with a
iinaU fl.ig at each end. They lie ibuth and north, and meafure about 5 feet in
length, 3^ in breadth, and i^ in depth. Two of thefe coffins are covered, in
«ne of which are human bones. Belides the large cofEn, there were feveral
finall ones, of which there is only one left entire. It is 3 ftet long, i ( broad,
and I deep.

f Any neck of land or ifthmus, where boats can be drawn over from one
fide to the other, is called Tar&z/, from the two Gaelic words iarruim^ to draw,
sad Sai^ a boat. U is commottly pronouticed in Gaelic With an i* in the laft
^Uahk as well asin the firft^ (i. e.) Tarbart. Kear the fsrm houfes of Tarbat
diere is aa old burying pbce^ where there is a cro&^ with one of the arms and
part of the top broken. It is neatly cut, and meifores 6 feet in length, 10
inches in breadth, and 5 inches in tfakkncA* The place ii called Hqfi CUHtfi/t
i e. $hc JfCiafi Chapd^ or Tomb.

8
his
the

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its

xid

18.

eft
eec
ck
ich
pc-
ip-
nd

a-
ir-

lur

Feet
nd.
•me
her
the

ive

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A
i

i
J

4
f
I

^ Gigba and Cara^ 57

the centre. It Is 2 feet diameter without, and i J- Within, 8
inches deep, and the bottom is 4 inches thick. Near this
chapel is Achadh^a^Cbarra^ (pronounced Ax**x*ti*) i* «• the
field of tlie pillar, fo called from a beautiful plain ftone,
which (lands in the middle of the field, within 140 jards
of the chapel. It inclines to the S. W. is 14^ feet high, ,.3
feet broad, and 8 inches thick at the edges. To fupport its
weight, it mail be 3 feet, at lead, under ground.*

Sfa Coqft and Birds, — ^The fliore of this ifland is high and
rockj, except at th« N. £• end, where the landing place is/
The fouth end, called the Maoil of Cara *, which is the higheit
part of the ifland, is a perpendicular rock, meafuring 117 feet
in height. From the flioro to the foundation of this rock
there is a fteep afcent equal to 50 feet perpendicular, which
makes the whole height 167 feet. Here all the different fpe-
cies of fea-fowl ncflle in May, which, added to the grand ap-
pearance of the rock, forms a delightful viewof^the fea,; and
on approaching it, the ear is no lefs gratified than the eye.
The number and variety of notes, which the appearance of a-
ny vifitor occafions among the birds, together with the mtir-

Vol, VIII. H mur

* North>«aft of this, at an e<}aal dii^ance from the chapel, is Cnoc-a'Cbarra^
or the hill of the pillar. On the top of this hill there is another (lone, 9 feet
long, and 3 feet 10 inches in circumference ; of the 9 feet, a are in the ground.
Still farther to the N. £. on a higher hill, there was a croft which fell fome
years fincc, and was broken ; the 3 (lones were in a ftraight line, but whether
they direded to any particular objed, or were intended as monuments of the
dead, cannot be afcertained.

f Jlf^ro/adj. fignifics iare or iaiJ, as Cean/i ma»l, hald-bead. Hence it is ap«
plied to cxpofed points of land or promontories, and then becomes a fubilantive
noun, and is written maoil c. g. maoil of Kintyre, tnaoU of Galloway, mat^ti «f
Cara, &c.

^8 ' Stattjlical Account

mur of ihe fca and the echo of the rocks, form a concert by
no means difagrceable- The real game hawk is iaid to neftle
here. This rock has a great deal of iron ore in it ; and in
one place, which was ttruck with lightning fevcral years a-
go, large pieceg were thrown down, which feemed to be a
mixture of copper and iron.*

Cavts^ Soi/, i3c. — Clofe bj this part of the Maoil, there t$
a cave 40 feet long, 5 broad, and 5 highf. At the end there
is a fmall opening which communicates with another cave,
meafuring 37 feet in length, 9 in breadth, and 9 in height.
This cave is open at the fide, which admits a good deal of
light, and fronx the top dreams of clear water fall down. The
fame kind of plants grow here as in the caves of Gigha. The
N. E. end abounds with rabbits, where the foil is a mixture
of ihells, fand, and earth. The reft of the ifland is mofly, and
the greater part might be cultivated, but it is found more pro-
fitable to keep it for pafture. There is enough of peats for
the inhabitants, and care is taken in cutting them to prefervc*

tlw

• A pcrfon who ha* lived above 36 years in the ifland, fays, that the
rock fell in Autumn 1756 : That the night on which it happened, there was
a dreadful hurricane, accompanied with thunder and lighuiing : That the
iioife of the rock falling wa< heard, and the (hock fel^, in their houfes : That
^e fea rofe fo high againil the rocks on the weft fide of the ifland, as to be
carried over the whole breadth of it in heavy fiiowers : That the houfes were
all unroofed, and the flacks of corn ovcrfet ; and that all the people were ob-
liged to extini^uifli their fires, and take fheltcr in the only flated houfe on the
ifland, which fortnnately fuifered no damage.

f A parcel of goats, belonging to the tackfman of the iiland, confider this
cave 39 their inviolable place of refidence, and difcover no fmall furprifc when
iVrangers viiit them. The aj^pearance of thefe animals, fometimes running in
the face of the precipice, and fometimes looking down from the higheft pinnacle
of the rock, occafions in the fpc Bator's brcaft a mixture of plcafure and pain^
which it more eafily felt ihan d::frribed.

^f Gigha and Cara. 59

the fttrface, and laj It down regularly after the peats are tak-
en awaj, by which means the pad are ground is not diminifL-
«d. The tackfman has one plough and one c^^-t. His houfe
is flated, and confifts of two floreys and garrets. It was
built 60 years ago, and is iiiU in tolerable good condition.
Adjoining to the houfe there is an old chapel, (96 feet long,
and proportionally broad) with a Gothick arched door on the
north fide, lliis was forojerly a burying place, and is now
^converted into a kitchen. Wild fpinage and water crefJTes a- '
bound here, as well as in Gigha.

Gigha. and Car^^.
Population* — All the inhabitants of both iflands are Pro-
teftants of the eflabliflied church of Scotland. The majority
of them are of the names of Galbreath and M*Neill. The
former are reckoned the more ancient, and faid to have been
originally a tall race of men. At prefent there is nothing
uncommon in their ftature. Tradition fays, that there never
was. an inflance of a ihipwreck where three of them were
aboard. The Galbreatbs *, in the Gaelic language, are called
Breatanuich^ or Clann a Bhreatanuicbj i. e. Britons^ or the
Children of the Briton^ and were pnce reckoned a great nani^
p Scotland, according to the following lines :

*< Breatanuich, o*n TaIJa dhearg f
'* Uailfc fir Alba do Shloinneadh.

That>$, " Galbrcaths from the -»«/T<«wrf
^ Nobleftof Scottiih firnames.**

The

* Galbreath is a corruption of two Gaelic VQr<l< C^ BhrtaUf^ u «. the
Strange Briiotiy or Lew Country Briton,

f This Talla dbearg^ or Red Tower t is probably Dumbarton (in Gaelic Dun^
Bhreaiain^ i.r.the HiUofthe ^nVoffi, whence, it is faid, the firft Galbreatbs came
U> Gigha.

6d Statiflical Account

The population of both iflands has increafed nearly one fixth
tirithin thefc 40 years. By a lift made out in January I79a»
the number of fouls was found to be 614, which is exa£Uy
100 more, than the return to Dr. Webfter in 1755. Of this
increafe, nearly oi\e half has taken place within the laft 5
years, as by an enumeration taken in 1787, the number was
5729 which makes an increafe of 41, or above 8 per annum
tirithin that period. The following tables will exhibit a view
of the different fexes, ages, conditions and profellions of the
people in botli iflands*

TaBIiS I. Sbnuit^ the proportion of the Sexes,

Males. Females. Total. Majority.
In Gigha, - 304 «88 S9^ 16 males.

^Cara, - 11 it %% o

Total, . 315 a9Si 614 16

Table II ♦. JProportiofi of SimgU wd Married People.
In Gigha. Cara. Pariflu In Gigha. Cara. Parifl^

Males, - 304-f i;i=3i5 Females, - 488+11=499

Married, - 8»+ 3= 85 Married, - 8a+ 3= 85

Unmarried»a»a-|- 8=430. Unmarried, io6-|- 8=114

Widowers, - 7+ 1= 8 Widows, - 31+ 0= 31

Single, - »I5+ 7=a»» Single, - 175+ 8=183

Tablb

* Add the fmgle of Both fexes in the table, emd fu^raS alJ under 7,0 years in th*
foUovfing taUe\ the remainder is the number ft for marriage^ exeituBng widowere Md
widows i e,g,

M. F, M.l^ff.
Single^ - - . - 424+183=405
Under %Oyears, ... X59+I49=3o8

Ntanber of males and females ft for marriage^ . 97

efGigha and Cara^ 6t

TabliIII. Ageff4btlBbatitaMi*,

Inhabitants of Gig. Cara. Parx(h«
Under zo years of age, - Z48+X 1=159
Between 10 and ao, - 146+ 3=149
- ao and 50, ▼ '99+ 7=:ao6

50 and 70, - 83-1- iz= 84

■ yo and S4, - i6-|- oz: 16

Total, - 59JH-aa=:6i4

Table IV. Froportioa of Children^ Families ami Faraum

Gig. Ca. Par. ChUJren.
Chfldrcn*, - 3ii+ia=363

^-— = 3 average number in each fiunily ,
Heads of Families, « 1044- 3=10;

Children (as above), 35i+l»=:363

= t» average number in each (arou

tfoxaber of farms, - 15+ i~ 16

Table V. Number <f Births, Marriagu and Dtaths.

Tears.

Births,

Marriages*

Deathat,

1787^

1788

X789

1790

179X

««-

*««■

Total,

- 105

Annual average,

• ax

Tablb

• The difference ef the children* s ages, In every family, is tvc years, vntb verj
few exeeftions.— 'Fbere ate three infances of twins in tbefe ifands.

t There is no regifter of deaths kept in th€ parijb, hut the mtmber of grmtm af
people who died in the eotnfe of the laf ^ years, is »6, of whom 6 were drowned, ICha
number of thildren who died within the fame period is alfo 26 ; in all $%.

^3 Statlftical Account

Table VI. Prtfefftons of tbt iHhaHtmili *.
InGigha* Canu In the whole parUh«

Farmers, -

X ZZ 47

Crrftenf, -

o =: ao

Cottagcrst, ■

•^i

a zz 53

Fifiermem \,

M the herrkig fiihing lift feafon on the coaft of Ireland, « x^
At ditto on the Nofth Highland coaftiaboat - - 44

Stilon aboard the navy laft war, - • a - 5

Handytraftfmen^

• There U no phylidan, furgcon, or apothecary ia the parilh, nor any to bq
got nearer than Campbeltown* Although thefe two iflands are uncommonly
healthy, and free from epidemical diforders, yet the want of a furgeon is fome-
timcs feh in accidental cafes* Medical afliftance, is the only thing wanting, to
render the iiland of Gigba^ a moft agreeable place to refide in. As there are good
harbours and landing placet on the eaft fide of the iflaud, there is eafy accefs to
it at all times bat the want of a quay, and proper accommodation on the main-
land oppofite to it, (as formerly taken notice of,) r4nders the communication
difhcult in the winter feafon. Were this inconvenience removed, the other
would be Icfs felt, as medical aid, in urgent cafes, could at any time be got from
Campbeltown, The winter, however, is fo mild, that there is almoft a f on-
ftant vegetation ; aofi in fnmmer the beautiful iituation of the place, the falu*
brity of air, and the variety of creeks and fandy bays, render it one of the fincit
bathing places in the Weft Highlands,

<ff A crofter has a plot of ground, for rearing a fmall crop and l^eeping a
aislk cow, and pays a yearly rent according to the value and extent of the
ground. A cottager has only a houfe, garden and potatoe ground, for which
he pays a finall rent.

\ Thofc employed at the herring fiihing, receive from a guinea to 30 s. ptr
month for wages. The number of vefTcls and fmall boats belonging to both
iilands is ai follows : 6 (loops, from 8 to 15 tons burden ; I ditto of 44 tons y
I ditto of 69 ; I ditto of 74 regii^rcd tonnage ; and 24 fmall bqati.

tf Gtgha and Gara. C^

Handyeraftfmen &•«. •

Weavers,
Apprentices,
Taylors,
Shoemakers,

Millers,

- %

Boat Carpenters, -

Mafont,

Diftillers»

Inn-kecpcrs,

Fiddlers,

- %

I
I
%
X

Blackliniths,

- X

Pipers,

Proprietors and Rent. — The ifland and baronj of Gighi,
confiftihg of 30 mcrk land of old extent, holds of the Duke
of Argyll for the yeaily payment of 400 merks Scotch of feu-
duty ; fivc-fixths of the ifland, (including the farm of Aird-
glamy, which pays a feu-duty to Mr. M*Ncill, who has an inter-
mediate fuperiority oVer it) belong to Mr, M'Neill of Gigha,
and the re Draining fixth to Mr. M*Neill of Gallachoillie. The
valued rent of the whole is 127L 5s. id. Sterling. The
real rent cannot exadly be afcertained, as there is a part of
the lands in the proprietor's hands, but it is believed it may
be above 700 1. The ifland of Cara is the property of Mr«
M'Donald of Leargie, and is occupied as a farm by one man.
The valued rent is 61. 10s. 5 d. Sterling; the real rent, in-
cluding public burdens, 35 L Sterling.

Ecclejiafttcal State. — Giglia and Cara are faid to have been
a part of the parifli of Jura and Colon fay, and alfo of the pa*

rifli

♦ The common wages of men labourers are 8 d. a day, fummer and winter.
A ploughman is hired from December to the end of May, at 2I. los. befide*
two pair of flioes, planting of two pecks of potatoes, (owing of a pint of flax-
feed, and maintenance. A mart fcryant is hired from the latter end of Augull
till the harveft is finilhed at about al. 159. with a pair of Ihoes and his mainte-
nance ; a maid fervant for the fame time gets 1 1. 10 s. with ihoes and main-
tenance; common men fervants arc hired at the rate of 4I. los. a fear, and
maintained; maid fervants at 2I. los. with maintenance, (hoes, and fiax-fced
fowing 5 herd boys from 15 s. to ao s. ; a taylor works for S d. a day, and
maintenance ; a flioemakcr gets^ I s. Imv making a pair of fiiocs in Kis own houfv:,
and 6d. when maintained.

64 Statijiical Account

lilli of Killearn^ in Kintyre ; but when they were disjoined
from cither is uncertain. The ftipend is paid partly in vie*
tual and partly in money, viz. 20 bolls of barley, 40 bolls of
tneal, and 33 I. Sterling in money, befides a glebe, and allow^*
mnce for a manfe* There is a good church, but no manfe, the
late incumbent having been tranflated to another parifh at the
time it was to have been built. The pa/i(h is vacant at pre-»
fent, by the tranflation of Mr. Dugald M*Dougal to the pa-
rifh of Lochgoilhead*. The Duke of Argyll and Mr
McNeill of Gigha are patrons*

School and Poor. — The number of children at fchool is 55
1>oys and 10 girls, in all 6y Mod of them are taught gratis ; 8
of them are learning arithmetic, 32 reading £ngliih| and the reft
beginners. The fchoolmafter has a free houfe, garden, and

, cows grafs, with 100 merks falary from the parilh^ and he
gets 7 1. Sterling from the Society for propagating Chriftian
Knowledge. Of the inhabitants there are 3 lame, 3 blind, 4
fickly, and i an idiot. Thefe, with a few old infirm perfons,

. are on the poors lift, and get as much help from the feiBonas
the funds ?dmit of; but they are chiefly fupported by the re*
fiding heritor and the inhabitants. The coUeftion at the

church

* Mr. M^Dougal was admitted in Oiftobcr I784 j andoD giving in his difmif-
lion in November 1789, Mr. Samuel Peat, a native of the Low Country, was
^refented to the parifh. This gentleman, not fubmicting to be examined hj
the prcCbytery of Kintyre on the Gaelic language, a piece of trial which they
thought necelTary before his admifiion to a Highland charge; and appealing from
them to the fynod of Argyll, and afterwards from the fynod to the General
Aflembly ; it was found requifite, that an ordained clergyman ihould beappoinl^^
ed in the meantime, to fupply the parifii, as their infular (ituation rendered it
peculiarly hard to be fo long without a minifler to difpcnfe the ordinances of re-
ligion among them. Accordingly, in Goober laft (1791), the writer of this
report came to this iiland, where he continues to officiate aa interim minifter,
with a falary of 40 1. a year from the fynod of Argyll,

ifGigbd ahd Carai C$

cbttrch does not amount to much jearlj, and therefore Is not
ifku adequate fund for the fupport of the poor*.

Language* — The language of the commdn people is baellc, hot
hot reckoned the pureft, on account of their vicinity to Ireland,
and intercourfe with the low cbilntry, by which manj corrup-
tions have been introduced into their phrafeoldgy. They under-
(land Engliih, and feveral Q)eak it well enough to tranfaft bu-
fihefs ; but very few of thim can underftand a connefled dif^
bourfe in that language. It may not be improper here to ob*-
ferve, that in Gaelic the letters C and G found always hard ;
ti like the Greek x-j bb, and tnb like v; db and gh like y^ vl
the beginning of a word. By attending to this, one who i9
ia ftranger to the Gaelic language, can more eafily underftand
what follows, as well as what was formerly obferved refpeS*
ing the origin of the name of Gigha. Moft of the other
tiames are alfo Gaelic, and compounded of fome of the foU
towing words, which are ezpreilive of the nature, fituation^
or appearance of the places.

Ach*, Acha', or Achadh, a field, as Acba^ mor, large field.

Ard, High j as jird Acb&db, high field.

Aird, Height; as Aird Gtamie^ u e. Height Point, or promon-
tory of Glamie^ from a rock called Glaibie.

Ceann, Head ; as Ceann tire^ i. e. Head land, now corrupted in-
to Kintyre*
Vol. VIII. . I Ceann^

* During the fcardty in X 7 81-3, barley meal fold at It. ^d. tHe peck (lolbi
4utch weight)* Oat-meal was very rcarce,and while it lafted fold at %%. P>)-
tatoes at I s. the peck. With the help of their fiih and milk they were better off
than the people ou the main land, and boaght little. Though the grain was
poorer that year than ufual, there would hate been no fcatcity of meal, had
the farmers kept all their barley ; but before they were aware of the fcarcicy of
proviCons, they malted and fold off a great part of it. They were, however^
Ttry favourably dealt with by the proprietors, as well as the poor in general.

66 Statijlkal Account

Ciann^ear'thlr-^eacht^ pronounced Kean-er-ir-ich, i. c. EaJl-»

Head-land^ the N. £• end of Gigha, fo called.
Cirn, heap of (lones.

Carr, Carradh, a pillar or one (lone on end.
Inflefted cafe, Charra.
Cnoc or Cnochd, a hill not fortified, Cnoc^a-Cbarraf Hill of

the pillar. Cfiochd^na^Croicb, Crofs*hill.
Cio, a fmall inclofure, a park.
DruTin, back ridge of a hill. Driiim Cbro, the height or

ridge of inclofures (or of parks).
Bun, a fortified hill, and Dunan, a little fortified hilL
Fairc, a watch; as Carn^a-Faire^ watch cairn,
Garbh, (garv) rough, ruffged. Garhb^EUean^ rough ifland ;
2 peninfulas fo called, and very expreffive of their appear- t
ance and furface.
Meadhan, middle, prononnced (mea^in).
Nes-Nis, (Danifb) a point going oat in the Tea.
^rd-meadban^nisf the name of a place near the middle of the
ifland, where there is a rifing ground, oppofite to which
there is a nefs, or point, that runs out about a mile N. £•
into the fea,
Torr, a tower or a heap of Hones*
Tr, a tower

j^rd'ttlr-nis, High Tower Point.
Ud^'Uaigby a cave or a grave,
SloC'SIocbdf a chafm or pit.

Sea/g^ bog-reed, hence Seafg^onn^ a marflv, compounded of
Seafg^ reed, ^nkdfonn^ land.
Gigulum, origin unknown.

View. — Nothing can exceed the view from Gigha in variety
or grandeur. On the E. the fertile coaft of Kintyre (over-
topped in fome places by the hills of Arran and Cowal), ter-

luiaate^

e/Gigba and Car a. 67

minates the profped ; on the S. the Maoil of Kintyre and
the coafl of Ixeland^ extending (paft Bathlin) to the point of
Derrj ; on the W. the ifland of Ilaj and the main ocean ; and
on the N. the iflands of Jura, Scarha, Dana, and the coaft of
Knapdale, with the hills of Mull appearing behind. The
pkafure ariling from this view is greatly heightened, by the
number and variety of flups and fmall veiTels, which conflant-
ly fail in difierent direftions, and at different, diilances. And
in ftormy, dark weather, when deprived of this enchanting
profpedl, the lols is amply made up to the admirer of nature,
by obferving the raging ocean dlfcharge its fury againft the
rock, whilft '' lid'ning with pleaiing dread to-its^deep roar,"

CharaSer^-^Tht people are honeft and inoflfeufive, willing
to oblige, and ready, by every exertion, to relieve the dillrefs
of £ea£iring men. They are, upon the whole, in a thriving
condition, content with their fituatlon, and greatly attached
to their native country. The fuppreiOon o\ private ftills,
(whicbareas unfriendly to the induilryand morals of a people,
as they are pernicious to their health), has been attended with
happy eSe&s. They are now lefs addi&ed to dram- drinking^
and more attentive to their bufineEs ; though (lil^ they are not
fo induflrious as could be wilbed. This, however, is owing
. to caafes, which it is not in their power wholly to remove.

Dtfadvantagu*'-Jiiyi&.oii of labour, which is the higheft
improvement in fociety, has not yet been carried fuch a
. length, as to entitle the people of Gigha to tlie charader of
being indufirious. The farmer, accufiomed to a certain mode
of labouring iox the fupport of his family, never attempts
any greater exertion, while this objed is accompliihed. There
. is no marl^t at handy where ready money can be ^ot for the
produce of the ground 3 and therefore no incitement to raife

la a greater

68 Stalifiicat Account

a greater quantity, than ferves for family confumption and pay-r
ment of the rent. Thus, every perfon endeavours to fuppljF
bimfelf ; and as he does not receive t^ady money for the pro-
duce of his own labour, he cannot advance it for that of
others. Hence he cannot apply hist whole attention to his
own profeffion. One part of the day is employed about his
farm ; another part allotted for the fifhlng, in order to fupply
the immediate wants of the family. In like manner, the
ihoemaker, fmith, taylor, and other handyprafrfmen, cannot
beftow their whole time on their different profeffions. They
have families to fupport ; and their employment is not fe
conftant, or the returns for their labour fo punftual, a^
to enable them to devote their whole time to their refpec-
tive lines of bufinefs. It is neceffary, therefore, to have a
fpot of ground : this fpot muft be attended to ; and the
pofleflbr thinks it more for his intereft to labour it himfelf,
fhan to employ another. Befides, the filbing muft be attended
to, as mentioned above ; for no man thinks of making a pro-
feffion tA fijbing which is open to every one: And again, no.
man will think of purchafing with money what any one can have
by going for it. All thefe circumftances operate in preventing
induftry and improvement. That this may not appear con-
tradidory, it muft be obferved, that the time ufually fpent,
every day, in the intervals between thefe different occupa-
tions, is nearly equal to the adual time of labour; and
therefore, though it cannot juftly be faid, that they are ad-
dicted to idlenefs more than others, it may with propriety be
affirmed, that they are not induftrious. In this fenfe, all the
inhabitants of the Weftern Ifles, being in fimilar circumftan-
ces, are chargeable with want of induftry. And people who
are not well acquainted with their peculiar fituation, and who
form an opinion of their charader, in this refped, by a eom«<
l^iarifpn with the inhabitants of the Low Country, may raflilj

poncludf

jT Gigba an J Can. 6g

conclude, that it is natural for tbem to be lazy and indoleiin
But nothing can be more ^fair than to judge of them in
this way, by a companion with people accuftomed all
their life to a proper divifion of labour, and regular maxu
kets for vending and purchafing the produce of their in-
dnftry. Therefore, the reafons commonly ai&gned for their
inaftivity are quite erroneous. It is not a natural difpofition
to be idle, but the want of encouragement and regular em-
ployment, that checks the induftry of the Highlanders* It is
well known, that, when habituated to any line of life, they
fire found careful, aftive and enterprifing.

Propo/ed Imfrovements.'^Wttt the labour and iaduftrjr of
fuch a number of able men, as are in the Highlands and Iflaods
of Scotland, properly direfled and encouraged, the efieASf
would, in a Ihort time, be fepfibly felt by the nation at large*
The mod valuable difcoveries might be made ; inezhauftible
magazines sind materials for every branch of manufadnre
might be found out ; and the exertions and inventions of a
great part of the kingdom, which are now lying dormant,
might, happily for themfelves and fociety, be thus brought
into afiion* The moft efieaual means of bringbg about .
fuch a change feems to be, the leflening and regulating die
prefent duties on £dt and coals ; the ere&ion of towns or
villages j and opening canals. The attempts that have already
been made in ere&ing villages, will certainly be attended
with good effeds ; and if the number were increafed, thefe
good eSc&s would be multiplied* By a canal through the
ifthmus at Crianan, the navigation between the Weftern Idea
and Clyde would be rendered fafe, eafy, and expeditious, at
all feafons of the year*^ By another canal between InvemeCs
and Fort William, a direft communication would be opened
^m the weft to the eaft coaft of Scotland, which would be

not
I

^^ Statifitcal Account

Bot Ontj of infinite mutual advantage to both the£e dif.
tlrid9 c>f ttie kbgdonii but to the commercial intereilt of
£iigUad and Ireland *.^*AU tffie plans, if carried into exe.
cutipn^ would ftir up a fpirit of commerce and enterprife, in
«I1 the Highlands and IflandB of Scotland, which would be
leob followed bj the introdu&ion of arts and manufa&ures.
Then, evety ufeful hand would find fufficient employment at
luKne.;. and the idea of property and independence would fti-
imilate to labt9Ur and induftry. Then, thofe places, whidti are
aoW id ft great meafure conlidercd as of no national confe-
quence, would become the fources of wealth and (Irength; and
inftead of appearing as fo many barren rocks in the map of
our tei^fMJry, wofild prove fome of the brightelt ornaments in
tiie croPiw of Gfeat Britain*

* This, however, could only happen, io cafe the canal were on lucfa a large
Ixakf 2A to admit TclTels of coniidcrable burthen.

o/LadykirL ")%

NUMBER IV.
PARISH OF LADYKIRK.

{County qf Berwkk'-Prejbytery of ChirnfidfSyttod of M^rft
and TUviotdali^

By the Rev. Mr. Thomas MiLt.

Name^ Situation^ Extent^ and Soil.

THE ancient jiame of this parifli was Upfetiingttnat^
which James IV. changed to Ladjkirk, after having
buUt a handfbme church in it, which he dedicated to the Vir*
gin Mary. It was within this chnrch, that the fupplemental
treaty, to that of CbaUau Camhrefis^ was concbided between
the Englifli and Scots Gommif&on€rs» and the duplicates were
exchanged the fame day at Norham. On Holywell haugh,
oppofite to Norham Caftky Edward I. and feveral of the
Scottiih nobility met, to fettle the difpute betwixt Bruce and
Balioly relative to the fuccei&on to the Crown of Scotland*
This pari(h lies along the banks of the Tweed, is 2 ' miles
long and one broad, and contains about 35.00 Engliib flatutc
acres. The country is flat, and interfperfed with a few. rtfiag^
grounds. The foil in general is very good, and confifts of %'
deep loam, in fome places gravelly, and in others on a clay
bottom. It is all capable ef bearing good crops, with judici-
ous cultivation : fome of the outfields were formerly infeUe^
with whbs and fome heath, both of which have long ago been
totally eradicated^

jig^icuhuru

yi !S/atij9ical Account

j/gruultun^^^Tht huibandry on both fides of the Tweedy
h, in general, condnfted with jadgment and fpirit : To give a
{KUtictdar detail of the prafiiee would much exceed the
Ibonnds of this report, but as the tenants in a great meafure
depend on their lire ftock, and of courfe on the condition iii
which it is kept, thej paj very particular attention to their
grab lands, and the manner in which they are laid down, as it
is found that the grafs of land, in high condition, will not on-
ly keep a much heavier flock, but will fatten it much fooner,
than the grafs which we too frequently fee growing on good
lands, in many parts of the kingdom, under bad manage-
ment *.

Sheep.'-^Tht &eep, in general, are very good, and are of that
kind commonly known by the name of the new LeicefterJ
fliire breed, which were firft introduced into Leicefterihire by
Mr. Bakewell ; they are found, in point of profit, far to ex-
cel any other kind of (heep in this country. The wedders af-
ter having been twice ihorn, at 26 months old, or fo, weigh
from 20 to 28 lb. per quarter ^ and the ewes, when fattened^
from 19 to a6 lb< Three fleeces and a half commonly make ^

ftone

* The graft feedf are fowed witfi the firft crq), after turnipi or fallow, in«
fiead ttf the fourth or fifth crop, which was the pradice about 30 or 40 year*
ago ; aDd the fuiceedipg corn crops are taken after the ^raf» is plowed up. By
theie meant there zx6 no cbm crops loft ; and the grafs has the benefit of thei
&lkw and the manure, and throws up great crops, when compared' with es*
kanfted lands, which are commonly full of eomct and other nozioBs weeds. Har«
teft generally begins about the ;ioth of Auguft, and ends in |September. The
graft lands remain in pafturage froih 4 to 5 years, when they are broken up for
oata«— The EngHlb plough, with the feathered fock, is the only one ufed here.
]t is drawn by a pair of horfes, and managed by one man. Oxen were former-
ly more ufed ; but firom their inability to drive manure and cdaU from any dif-*
tance, and the ilowneft of their ftep, they have fallen into difrepute, excepting
for homo work, which they arc exceedingly well calculated to anfwcr.

^ Laifykirk. 73

ftone of wool, which fells from 158. to 1 8 8. per Qone, and
goes into TorkQiire to be manufaAuredy excepting a Coiall
quantity which is fept to Aberdeenfliire. This breed of
iheep are uncommonlj good feeders, 'but often do not carry
fo much tallow as many other kinds ^Pi in proportion to their
weight*^ Mr. Culley has undoubtedly the merit of having
firft introduced this breed of fheep into the countryi about 2Q
years ago qr more ; and at prefent there are 8 or 9 people in
the diArid of country betwixt the Cheviot and Lammermuir-
hills, whofe iheep ftock are very highly imprpved. The
iheep of the low part of the country are all of this kind, and
ure found the more profitable the oftener that they have beeu
crofled by the befl breeds. The number of them, as well as of
the horfes and black cattle, depends fo much upon the ilate.of
the lands io different years, whether in com or in pafturage,
that it is almoft impoflible to give an exad: account of them :
In genera], there may be from 1500 to 2500 iheep in the pa«
rifli. The flieep formerly in this country, called Muggt^ were
a tender, Qow feeding ^imal, with wool over moft oi their
faces, from whence the name of M^ggs, There is hardly an
individual of this fpecies now to be met with io the neigh-
bourhood. Mr. CuUey's kind of fheep, on the other hand,
have open countenances, ^without any wool on the face from
the ears forward, and are as kindly feeders as the others are
flow ones. They are neither long bodied, nor long legged,
but well made, handfome flieep, deep in their chefl, broad at
their flioulders, loins, and crops, which lad are. thrown well
back ; ^nd they are deep and broad of their breafl:s, which are
well feen before ; and iland on well proportioned, clean, fmall
boned legs. Mr. CuUey's flock is almoft entirely fprung from
Mr. Bakewell's, as he wifely perceived that Mr. Bakewell
was in the right traft of breeding, long before mpfl people
would allow it.

VoL^VIIL K Black

74 Statiftical Account

Black Cattle and Horfes. — ^Thc black cattle here arc of the
fhort-horned breed, and from the attention qow. paid to them,
it is probable, that Xhtj will be brought to a great degree of
pcrteftion. The fteer* of the bcft kind of this t).reed, whea
3 years old, and fat, will weigh from 60 to 75 done (of 141b*
to the (lone), and if kept to a proper age, will weigh from 8 j
to no ftone ; fome individuals may even weigh a great deal
more. It may, perhaps, be proper to mention, that it is not
large iheep and cattle, that the farmers here wifli to breed ; it is
the fniall. well ihaped, kindly fort, that will raif(? 910ft money
in a given time, from a given quantity of grafs, turnips, or
other food. The cows give from x6 to 34 Englifh quarts oE
milk in the day ; fome cows may give a great deal n^ore, but
fuch are only exceptions from the major part. When pro-
perly fatted, the cows will weigh from 50 to 80 (lone. There
are, in general, from 250 to 300 black cattle, and from 7Q
to po horfes in the pari(hf

Fijb and Birds^ \3c. — The river Tweed abounds with (aU
mon, trouts, eels, &c. The falmon fifheries let here fronj
50I. to lool. a year ; nearer Berwick they increafe very much
in value, The falmon are all fent to the London market,
where they bring great prices. There is plenty of game, as
partridges, hares, &cc. ; and in the winter, woodcocks, an4
fometimes; woodpeckers appear. In the fpring, wild geef^
frequent the country, Goofanders, wigeons, and cormprants,
refort to the Tweed in fevere winters, and fometimes grebes,
and fpeckled divers \ and in the lakes there are numbers, of
fnallards and teals.

population. — ^The inhabitants have increafed confiderably
within ihefe 40 years. The return to Dr. Webfter in 175^
Vas^ only 386. There are no^ from ^80 to 600. Two years

of Lajiykirk. ^5

ago the niimbel- amounted to 534, and it has indreafed tonl!-
derablj iince that period. The people are moftlj emplojed
in hufbandry, in raiflog grain to (upplj lefs fertile countries^
and in feeding live ftock, which are fent commonly to New-*
caflle, Shields, and Sunderland.

Stipend^ Rent, Wages ^ and Prices of Provifidns^-^^Thb rhU
nifter's ftipend is 800 1. Scoteh, or 661. 13 s. 4 d. Sterling.
The rents of this parifb are from 14 s. to 30 s« the Englifli
acre. The farms let at from 300 1. to 606 1. a-year, and the
tenants are for the moil part rich and profperous. A hind's
ivages are from 141. to 16 1. per aniium. The price of beef
and mutton in this country, after midfummer, is about 3 d^
in winter 3i^d. and in the fpring from 4d. to jd. per lb. but
the prices are moftly regulated by the demands from the
Morpeth markets*

K a NUMBER

76 Statifikal Account

NUMBER V.
PARISH OF DOUGLAS.

(fiouttiy and Prejkyttry of Lanark — Synod of Glafgow and

Air.)

By tie Rev. Mr. William M'Cubsik.

Origin of the Name.

THE account of it given by Mr. Hume of Godfctoft, is,
that in the reign of Solvathius king of Scotland, about
the year 767, one Donald Bain (i. e. the white or fair), afpired
after the crown, gave the king battle, and bad almoft gained
the vidorj, when a certain nobleman, with his fcms and fol-
lowersy came to the king's aid, and behaved with fuch courage
and refolution, that Donald's armj was defeated, and he him-
felf flain. The king, anxious to know to whom he was fo
much indebted, and the nobleman being prefent, one of hi»
lieutenants, pointing to him with his finger, faid, Sboito
Dugkijffif f. e. ** Behold yonder black grey man." Upon
which the king gave him much land, and the furname of
Douglas, which his pofterity ilill retain ; and from him too, '
the parifh, as well as the town, caftle and river, derive their
names. Others fay, that the river Douglas, which runs
through the parifh, gives name to the town and the noble
family to whom the pariih belongs. The name is doubtlefs
of Gaelic original, and fignifies B'iaci Water ^ which is an ex«
ceeding proper appellation for the river, as it is black, having
its fource and all its fupplies from amofly country*.

I SituatiotTf

* There are other ftreams in Scotland, diftiogoUhed by the name of Boi^hi,

bf Douglas. ff

Situation^ Extent^ Soil and Climate, — ^The extent of tfat
parilh is confiderable, being about 1 2 miles long, and in fotne
places from 4 to 6, in others from 6 to 7 broad. The pari&*
is fituatedy about 40 miles from the fea, everj waj. The foil
is variable, except the holms, which being a new foil formed
hj the river, is pretty uniform ; but the ground on either
fide is very fpouty, occasioned in fome places bj the outbudfs
of the coal and other minerals ; but in mod places bj the
bottom being a cold wet till. The lands ire moftlj laid out
in fheep farms. In the ftrath, and along the banks of the
river, there are feveral arable farms ; but the lands occupied
in this manner, bear fmall proportion, to what are laid out in
iheep walks. Their pafture is hillj, though not very hig)i ;
and is both green and heathy. The air is very moift, particu*
larly in fpring and autumn. The winds generally blow im-
petuoufly about the time of the equinox, and frequently ia
autumn ihake a deal of com. They blow moftly from the
S. W., which bemg the diredion of the river, and the banks
high on each fide, what would be accounted a moderate breeze
in other places, is here often a kind of hurricane. It is how«
ever a very healthy place ; and there are in it many inftances
of longevity. Many have exceeded 80 and 90 during the
incumbency of the prefent minifier. There are a men in the
parifli at prefent aged 92 ; and it is well authenticated, that a
man died here, in the beginning of this century, aged at lead
zio, having lived during a part of 3 centuries.

Woods and Rivers. — ^Thcre is very little natural wood itf
this pariih, and that only a kind of bruih. The aih appears
to have been the favourite tree of our anceftors. At many
of the old farm fieads, there are large afli trees ; and at the
Caftle of Douglas there is a row of very aged ones, which/
tradition iays, were ufed in barbarous times for hanging their

enemieSf

yi Statlfikal Aceount

enemiesy the Englifli. There is alfo fome planting aboul it.
of a later date*. Lord Douglas, upwards of 20 years ago,
planted about 300 acres : and within thefe laft zo or it jears,
above 800 acres more, with oaks, elms, beech, planes, afiieS|
and firs of different kinds ; which Sn a few years will have a
fine effed to beautify and ihelter this part of the country.
Some hundred acres more are yet to be planted to complete
the plan. The mod confiderable river in the pariih is Dou-
glas, which takes its rife at the foot of Cairn Table, 9 miles
above the town, and runs into the Clyde about 7 miles below
it. There arc 3 fmaller waters in the upper part of the pa-
xiOi, which all run into Douglas ; namely, Glefpine, Kinnocks,
mnd Monks. All thefe waters abound with excellent trout $
and in fome parts of the water of Douglas there are very fine
pike.

Minerals. — This parifli abounds in coal, which will be iri^
exhauftiblc for many centuries. There are many different
feams from 2 to 7 feet in height. The decline of the mine-
xals is various. At the march with the parifh of Carmichael,
about I of 3 ; li a mile to the weftward, i of 2 ; and a little
snore weft, z of if. The ftretch of the coal is nearly paral->
lei to the courfe of the river, which runs from S. W. to N.
£. The moft remarkable circumftance, that attends thefe
coals, is, their being interfe&ed with a great number of fteps,
which throw the coal down from 30 to 50 feet perpendicular.
Thefe Heps are from 60 to 200 yards feparate, and lie nearly
parallel. They crofs tbe ftretch of the coals in a diredion
nearly weft. Coal is the principal fuel here. As one tackf-
man rents the coal both in this eftate, and in the eftate of
Carmichael, the property of the Earl of Hyndford (through
which eftate the fame feams of coal ftretcb), the demand fro mi
cither of the works is very irregular and uncertain, being re-
gulated

of Douglas. 79

gulated by the fuperior quality of cither work for the time,
and by the caprice of the purchafers. But for 20 years paft,
the annual produce on both eftates has been from 50,000 to
70,000 loads of 2icwt. Taking the medium 60,000 loads,
at 5 d. per load, at the heugh, the produce in money is I250 L
The coal heiigh, about 3 miles above the town of Douglas, is
by moft people thought the bell coaL There is plenty of lime
and free.ftone here,

K.ent. — ^The holm and croft land let at from 15 s. to 20 s»
per acre \ the field land from 5 s. to 2 $• according to the
quality ; the bed land near the town from 30 s. to 40 s. ;
nay, fome land in Lord Douglas's parks, after lying in lee for
a number of years, has been let for two crops at 3L 3 s. per
acre. Arable farms let at from 40 U to looL $ £beep farms
from jol. to 200 1.

Agriculture and Produce. ^^-Odits are the prevailing and al«'
moft only grain fo wn here ; the moft extenfive farmers notfow-
ing more than 3 or 4 acres of bear, with from 2 to 3 of early
jgrey peafe, and fome potatoes. It is not owing to prejudice, but
neceffity, that the people have adopted this mode of farming ;
long experience having ftiewn them, that oats are the crop
that can be moft depended on. And indeed, fuch is the feve-
rity of the feafons in this country, that very frequently th'^
bear and peafe are deftroyed by the froft before they come to
maturity: And though oats are a more hardy grain, they are
fiidted in their growth by the cold, and, in particular late fea«'
fons, rendered in a great manner ufelefs, both for man and
beaft. In the year 1782, there was not a boll of tolerable
oat-meal produced in the pariih. There was neither bear
nor peafe } and the oat-meal was little better than the duft of
pd^er years, and very little of it. Great quantities of white

peaf»«

$o Stattfiical Account

^(e-meal were imported frbm Leith, and oat-mea! £rpm Afi«
S9indale and NIthfdale ;~ and the tenants were obliged to pur.
chafe their feed com for the enfuiog year, at Leith, and in
Tweeddale, Nithfdale and Annandale. The quantity fpwsi
«n the acre is about 6 Winchefter bufhels ; and the average
produce of the whole farm, from iS to %j^. The boll, or 6
|>ufliels of oats, gives, communibus annis^ 6 ftones of meal ;
but in calamitous feafons, it has been known to give onlj fcoin
3 to 3i, apd of very bad quality. The Blainfley or Tweed-
dale oats are mod commonly fown here. An early fpeqes,
called barley oats^ has been introduced by fome farmers ; but
^is grain is very liable to (bed, or ibake, before it. is ripe,
efpecially in this country, whore the winds blow very high,
iP^des, thefe oats afford little ftraw, and that of a worfe qua-
lity tb^n the Tweedd^de -, and ftraw is the principal fodder for
horfet and cattle here. The greatqft part of this paciih feems
better adapted for grazing than tillage, and would probably
turn out to greater advantage that way ; for fervants wages
are greatly advanced \ and the return in corn being fo very
fmall, little profit can arife from an arftble farm. The frofts
lire feldom off", nor do the lands acquire a fufficient drynefs
^ JFor fowing, before the 24th of March; and it is ufually near
the end of September before the harveft be general. The
corns are rarely got in, fooner than the end of Ofiober, prfirft
week of November. There are 40 ploughs and 133 cart9
in the pariih.

Siieft Hor/eSf i^c — The flieep in this parifli are the black-
iK^ed ihort Scotch iheep, and fuperior to tbofe in die neigh-
bouring

* A hrm rerrant was hired ao yean ago for 5 1. a year, and a maid fervant
for » 1. 10 a. : Now a good man fervant cannot be had under fh>m 7 1. to xof.
aBdamaidfrom3l.to4i. PayUbonren were zed., aad the higl^eft is.!
Opw Cfaey arc Z44 and l< d.

of Douglai. § i

bouring parifhes. Thcj weigh, when fat, frotn 7 t« lo lb,
fter quarter, Dutch ; have fi-om 4 to 6^ or even 8 lb. of tal-
low, tron : their wool gives from 4 s. to 5 9. 6 <!• per fioiie,
from 4 to 6 fleeces to a ftone. — All the ftore-maflers of this
parifh got tlie premiums at Lanark for tups, as long as the
xegulations would permit them.-— There are between 13,000
and 14,000 iheep ; about 200 horfes, and 800 black cattle in
the whole pariih| befides what Lord Douglas has in his
parks.

Roads, — This parifli, is in the centre of the great rdads, from
Glafgow to England, aiid from Edinburgh to Ayr, About
18 years' ago, Lord Douglas, at his own expence, xilade pear
30 miles of the one, and 20 of the other. The (latute work|
which is at prefent eJLa&ed in kind from the tenants, is ap-
plied to keep them in repair, but is a very inconfiderable
part of what is neceflary for that purpofe. There are toll
bars on the roadsi to which the people are now reconciled,
bnt were greatly averfe to at their creftion.

- Manufa^u¥a. — No manufaftures were eftabliflicd in the
parifb, till this year, that a company from Glafgow, confift-
sng of natives of Douglas, and men of induftry and intelli-
gence, fitted up a fmall cotton fpinning and weaving work, in
the town of Douglas. The carding is perfof med by horfeS^
and the fpinning by hand jeannies. Another refpedable com-
pany, moftly belonging to this place, have eredled a fmall
carding and fpinning mill on the lands of Gacmacoup,. 3 miles
above the town, which ali;eady gives employment to a good
4&umber of hands. They are both in their infancy, but therci
is no dottbt of their facceediog.

Vet, Vin. L Population

ftr- Statl/llcal Account

Population^'^Tht population is now upon the increafei andi
bids fair to continue fo, though there has been, on the whole,
a decreafe within thefe 40 jears.

Population Table oftbt farijifc/ Dovolas%

Population in the year 1^55, 0009 Number of widowers, - $t

. — — tf/i»ol79i, • 1 7 15 ■ of widowi, - - 8*

Decreafe - - - 094 ——'of Members of the Efta-

Average of births frOto 1 700 to blilhcd Church, 167a

1 7 10, - - - 43 i -^ — of Antiburghcr Scocdcrs, 3

«... 1750 to 1760, - 564 » of Cameroniansi - 40

«^_ l78itoX799> . so of cksgymcff, • 9

Inhabitants in the town of Don- " ■ of fchoolmaftersr - ^

glas, . . - 6^4 ' - of male fcrvants, • 99

I. in the country, 10 ji — _ offemale ditto, - go

Number (if males, - 774 of poor, - - 09

"■ of females, - 94X ■ of young perfons not

'■ of families^ - 419 gone to fchool, - 246

Ecclejtajlical State^^-^Thcte are two dergjman in this pa«
rifli, the minifter of the eftablifhed church, and a Cameroniaa
or M'Millanite minifter, who has refided in it about 30 years.
Lord Douglas is patron of the pariih. The ftipend is 83 1.
6 s. 8 d. Scerling, and a very gx>od glebe. A new chuicb,
xnanfe, and offices were built in 1781 » The old church was
called St. Brides's Church, in honour of the patronefs of the
pariih : a part o€ it is flill kept up, on account of the ancient
monuments in it and burying vault,* although there is a verj

elegant

* On the'nort^ fide of Che church, in a niche below the grallery belonging to
€tit family of Doliglas, is buried one of the Dukes of Tourain. The arch of
the monument is partlj broken down and defaced ; bat on the fragmenu hh
arms appear quartered thus : — ift, Tourain, ad, Douglas, 3d, Galloway, 4th
Annandale, with the following infcription :— Hic jacbt Archibaldus
'Dovci^i, Dvx ox TovEEMiJSy CoMss BE Douglas xt Lomovillx, Domi-

vf Douglas. Sj

elegaflt butyi^ig vault in the new kirk, for the family of
Douglasi in which are depoiited the remains of the Duke and
Duche£i of Douglas, and Lady Lucy Douglas. W

L a Schools

NVS OaLL0TX»IJ£,WjCT«MIX& AnmANOIJB.COOUU TEMENS RsOZS ScOTIJEp

Qbiit 26. PIE Mensis JtTNii 1438. This nobleman was the foo of Archibald
Douglas, furnamed Tineman, the firft Duke of Tourain, and Maud Lindfay,
&ugbter of David Earl of Crawford. On the fouth fide of the church, in a
niche commonly- called St. Thomas's diOe, are the following infcriptions : Hie
jacet Magmu «/ PeUns Prkiupiy Vomimu Jacoiiu de Doughs^ Dtae Tm/retiU et Co*
met de Jhuglas^ Domuuu A/mandia^ Galhvidist^ i.iddalU^ Jedburg: fotrefiia ii Do*
mimu de Balvenioy Afagmts IVardamus regni Seoti^B vet/ut Angiiam, Iste. qui ebiit iJi,
£e Menfts Mattii^ Ammo DomiMt 1 443. This James was brother to the former
Archibald, and fuccceded to liis eilate and honours after the murder of his
two fons in Edin^rgh Caftle. The following is the infcriptlon for his lady,
Stcjaed DomtMa JStatrix de Sinelairy (flia Domini HtMrici Comitit Orcadum^ Domi*
91 de Sindair^ ^cj Comitijfd de Douglas et Aveuta^ Domiua Callovidia. In balTo
relievo, arp to be feen the above nobleman's arms impaled, with his lady's ; the
cutting if diftifld, and part of the gilding flill entire. On the eaft fide of thefc,
above the church-door, b a ftone,with the following infcriptirn, which is fuppnfed
t« have been moved' from its original fiatien, when making fomc repairs on the
Church. H^efwd proles inter pnediHos Dominum et Dominam generate. Imo, DomiMut
WUhelmus primogenitus et b^eres di&i DomiMi JaaAt^ quifuccejit ad iotam bare£tatem
frst^ffam, yacoius %do gcMttus magifler de Douglas, Arcbt^uldus ^tio genitus comes
Moravls, Hugo 4/0 genitus comu Ormuudi^, yoannes ^to genitus Dominus dc
Balvenia, Henricus 6to, genitus, Margareta uxor Domini de Dalhilb, Beatrix
uxor Domini * Joannij, eonfabuUrii Scotia. Janeta uxor Domini de Biggar et de
Cumbernauld. BUzaUtba Douglas 4ta JUia erat. In a niche on the north fide of
the church, weft from the Duke of Tourain's monument, there has been an-
other magnificent one, embelJiibed with Gothic ornaments, ereded to the me-
mory of the good Sir James, the eighth Lord of the family upon which were 1% '
lion'fe heads of curious net work, which had been cut, mutilated and abufed during
the time of Oliver Cromwell's ufurpation, by his garrifon (placed in the caftle
of Douglas), in refentment of Sir James having been an enemy to the Englifh
nat'on. I'his monument is not impaled. The following are the infcriptions
ipn the lead coffins in the vault :— Gu/. Angus. Dominus ex Jacobo Marcbione

Douglaftet

* Home, in his hiflory of the Dou^lafcs, calls him Lord of Aubigny^

84 Statifilcal Account

Schools and Poor.-^Befides the public fchool, there is alfo
an Englifli fchool in the town ; always two, and fometimes
three Englifli fchools in the country part of the pariih ; thera
are alfo, at prefent, two'Sunday fchools in the town, which are
of great advantage to the young, and efpecially fuch of them
as are much employed throughout the week. The poor, on th6
weekly roU, get, according to their circumftances, from 6 d.
to 2 s. per week. But befides thofe on the roll, there are
many occafional poor, who get from a s. 6 d. to 53. per quar-«
ter. There is 1 10 1. Sterling mortified for their ufe. The
colleQions at the church, which have always been good, are
fiill increafing ; and laft year they amounted to near 35 U
The other cafualitles vary, but may, at an average, amount
to about 20 1. yearly. The heritors, have, for many yeara
pad, afleiTed themfelves in wha^ was necefiary to make up
the deficiency. In 1783, when the meal was not only dear,
but fcarce and bad. Lord Douglas ordered money to be given
to the minifter to purchafe good meal, to be diftributed week-
ly to fuch as had occafion for it, at i s. per peck, and his Lord**

ihip

J^g^Jf^i ^ •^"* Mafia Kerr Jilta Cowuth LotBiaiis eeajygt prmngemifys, Nai»
15 0^. 1693, otiif 73 May X694.— >A/arM Gordemflia Georgii primi Mare^icmii
de Htmtly, quam Guliehmii frimut Marebia it JDct^Uu in mxunm ftcunda duxii, qmfqut
pnncfu^ atatit fcxagejimo quarto faiutu humane ^ X644, merUm oUit.'^Hu ftium efi
<orpus GuU MarchiMu Dmtglajia eo titmlo prmiy qui ex tSverfis et mtOuit tbalamu ai
HamUtmivrmm et Gerdotuerxm geaie fuam pregeniem cwdUmaiaM Hamilteniortm vera
in/iaMraiam reiifaii. Obiit II. CaL Mart, anno l66«, eetat, vero yi^^^Margaretm Bom
m'iiioun Amguiui Comiiijfa cUit 3S amic 4etatii fine XX Septemiru x623.«*^iiii«
Stewarta doe : LeaaaxU et Riehwuaiia flia ArebibaUa Aagufim Comiti per XFIIT*
annu nupta, obiii XFI, dU Augufli^ aaa, IdDCXLFL et. XXXI ,^D. 0. M. Hk
pofittm efi torput Margarets f Hit primogenita Gal, Marcbtuns de DoagUif rtUBu e»
matrianahevm Margareta Mit, Imo, Jaa. 1660. Katbariuoewjuga Dmini de Ter*
phiehem, item Jeanaa Gvl, Alexaadri Cvmite de Sterl, eetatb 49. The following it
(he only xnfcription upon the laft Marquii of Oougl^:-^-/. M* D, JEtatie 54,
O^iit as FeM* 1700,

tnp paid the balance, which was a great and leaf<HiaUe selie£
to the indaflrious poMr it that tiflie*

CaJIU.-^Th% old caftle of Dougfas Was bmnit by accideot
about 33 years ago. The Duke, in his lifetime, built one
wing of a new caftle, of rery ftrong and elegant woric, ii»
which there are betwixt 50 and 60 Ire-rooms. This wing
was finiflied bj Lord Douglas, but it ftill wants a front and
another wing to complete the plan. 'Dxi dining room is s
moll elegant one, being 40} feet long, 35 feet broad, and 18
feet high. There is aUb a beautiful hanging ftair, which is
much admired bj all people of tafte.

General CharaBer qftbe People*^^Tbtj are a fober, decant,
and induftrious fet of people ; attend regularl j on the ordi«
nances of the gofpel, and are remarkably charitable and
bnoiane ; they even turn their innocent amufements to the
advantage of the poorj for, during the fevere froft lall winter,
when they went to curling on the Ice, a favourite dlverfion
here, they, more than once, played for a certain fum each,
and applied the forfeited money, to purchaie coals for the

fOQT/

NUMBEK

%r: Statifiical Ai:ifmta '

NUMBER VL
' PARISH OF TWEEDSMUIR.

(fiinnay tf 'tmiidaU—PnJhytiry of PitbUs^^ynod rf lo^
tbian and Ttwegddale.')

By ib$ Rtv. Mr Thomas Muschet.

Ere&ion, Extent, Soil^ Hills, Rivers, lie.

THIS diftri&y formed anciently a part of the panib of
Drummelzier, but was erefied into a diiUnfi pariih ia
zi!43. It is about 9 miles in length, and in many places as
much in breadth* It is a hillj country, with fome fiats and
snorafles. A number of the hills are very beautifuly being co«
Tered with grafs to the very tops ; others have a mixture of
beath ; fome are of a great height, particularly Hartfield and
Bvoadlaw, which are about 1800 feet above the level of the
fea. The river Tweed has its fource at the fouth-weft ex*.
tremity of the pariih, and runs through it in a north eaft di-
reftioo* It is joined by the waters of Core, Fruid, and TaU
la, ^befides feveral fmaller bums or rivulets, all of which
abound with trouts.

Cultivation and Prtf/&^^.— The arable parts of the parifli
product eats, barley, &c. upon a light loam, with gravel and
fand at the bottom ; but, owing to the great rams, and early
frofts, the crops are very precarious ; indeed the whole of the
parifh is by nature principally adapted for pafiure. The
mutton fed upon the heathy hills and flats, is remarkable for

delicacy

X(fTi»etifnmr. . 8/

ddkacy of taAe ftod flavour ; altboogh fnidlt and fUdoo.
weighing more than lo or \% lbs. per quarter, it is far fupe^:
rior (for the tabk) to the large mutton fed upon a low and
rich pail are.

5ibr<^aiu/K^oo/-^The whole of. the perilh contaim 15
&rms, which feed about 15*000 (heep, bcBdes a neceilarjr
number of horfes and black cattle. The gra&iers in the north'
of England, are particolarlj fond of the Twecdfmuir breed of
flieep ; they buy them of all ages, and drive them to thetf^
farms, where they are much efteemed, being healthy and good
tfarivers* A number' of the young flieep are fold at the Lin*-
ton markets, in the month of June, to be driven to the OchiL
and Alva hills, and other places in the Highlands of Scotland 9
a number of lambs, ydd ibeep, and draught ewes, are fold to
the butcher, and help to fupply the markets of Edinburgh,
Glafgow, &c. The flieep farmers, commonly called. ilore-
mafters, begin to fmear their fheep abont the middle of Oc
tober, with a mixture of tar and butter, which, after feparat-'
log the wool, is laid dofe to the flLi'n in regular layers all o^
ver the body, to deftroy the vermin tliat breed on (beep, and
proted the animal agaioft the bclemency of the weather.
This operation, no doubt, leflens the value of the wool, but it
is found to be abfolutely necefiary. The fleeces thus impreg-
nated with tar and butter, are ihorn about the middle of fum-
mer, and lately fold at 6 s. and 68. 6 d. per ftone: a great
part of them is fent to the manufafturing towns in Yorkfliire)
fome to the north of Scotland ; a fmall part is manufadured
into coarfie cloth for family ufe, and fome is fpun into yam,
and fold in that ftate. Several attempts have been made to
improve the ftaple of wool in this parifli, by introducing an
Englifli breed of flieep, from thofe belonging to Mr. Bake*
If cU ; but they were found not to anfwer, as they were very

unhealthy

t^. Siatifikal Account

ttohealthy, and amr nrrived to die fifie or fatnds df Oe iift^
UTelhetp. Mn.Tweedieof (Hirer, however, a refpediblc
berkor in this paidfli, has &uad the Cheviot breed as hardy
as the native.

Pofukaion^'mJtbt population of this parifii .has decreafed
eonfidenblj. About 70 years ago, the lands were occupied
by a6 tenants, bot the farms have fince duut period been gra«
dually enlarged in extent, and of conrfe diminiflied in nuin*
her; even of the 15 to which they are now reduced, fo nna^
ny are engrofled in the hands of the fame peribns, and thefe
often fettled in other pariihes, that there ane only 3 Jsroierd*
at prefent refideat in the whole parifli. The whole number
of dwelling honfes is only 51^ and of thefe 3 are inns, fituated
at the Crook, Beild, and Tveedihaws, upon the high-way
{pom Edinburgh to MoMit, Dumfries, &c. which paSes
through this paridi along the banks of tiie Tweed, and is of«
ten, (e^ecially in that part of its extent which lie^ within
this pariih), in a very bad ftate, .but will now meet with a
Aoroogh repair* The whole number of fouls, at prefleot in
llie pariih, is only 127 ; the return to Dr. Webfter^ in 1755* was
397, fb that there is a decreafe of 170. Sdbce the pradice
of inoculation was introduced, the JJaiall pox frequently car'
vied off great numbers of the children. The inhabitants of
Tweediknuir are in general ftout and healthy, and many live
to an advanced age» During the lafi 10 years, there havft
been 77 baptifms, 33 marriages, and 56 burials.

Churchy Scboolf amd Poor.-^The church was built in 1648.
The ftipend was paid fome years ago, partly in grain, and
partly in money ; but an equitable converfion having been a«
greed npon,attherateo^ I2s. 6d. aboil for the grain, the whole
ftipend is now paid in money, and amounts to 75 L Sterling

a-yean

X)f Tweed/tnuif^. 89

a*yfear. The Duke of Queenlberry is patron ; the lands in the
pariih belong to 7 different heritors, of whom only z re-
fides. The poor are affifted by the weekly colledions at
church ; a fchool was lately inftituted, and a fchool houfe
built; the heritors fixed the falary at 100 merks Scotch, but
the fcholars are few in number.

j{ntiquttus*^^ome remains of antiquity are to be feen in
this parifh, near the highway $ and a few miles above the
Beild there are feveral cairns, which have probably been raif-
ed over fome ancient graves* : Vefliges of ancient caftles ftill
remain at Oliver ; at Fruid, where a family of the name of
Frafer formerly refided ; and at Hackihaw, the feat of thean-
cient family of the Porteoufes.

Vol. VIII. » M NUMBER

* Hear Nether Menzion, on the banks of the river Fruld, is the gravt of Ma*
rion Chifholm, who is £ud to have come hither from Edinburgh, while the
plague was raging there, and to have communicated the pcftilentiai infedion to
tlie inhabitants of three different farms in the pariih, viz. Nether Mtnzibn, Glen-
4iothe, and Fniid, by means of a bundle of clothes, which fhe brought with her ;
iti'Confequence of which, a number of peribos died, and were buried in the ruina
U their houfes, which their neighbours pulled down upon their dead bodies.

^ Statlfttcal Account

NUMBER VII.

PARISH OF KILMARTIN.

{County and Synod qf ArgyU-^PrtJbyUry of Inverary,)

By the Rev. Mr. Hugh Campbell.

Origin of the Narne^

REMOTE^ Highland parifbes, diftant from the feenes of
great and memorable e'^nts, backward in moft kinds
of improvements, particulariy in agriculture, and without trade
or manufaftures, cannot be expe&ed to furnifli much matter
for ftatiftical inquirj. — The name of this pari(b is, and has
been Kilmartin, as far back as either record or tradition caa
trace it. It is fuppofed to have been given, in memory of
feme reputed faint, in a diftant period of Chriftianitj. Such
etymologies of names,, particularly thofe of ancient burial
places, which were generally places of worlhip, are not un*
common. In this country, fuch places were called Ki/Is*
Kilmartin was therefore the burial- place of St. Martin, and
probably alfo his refidence.

Extent^ Surface^ SoU^ Climate^ \3^. — The form of the pa-
riih is oblong, running from S. W. to N. E. Its length is
from z I to 12 miles, and its greateft breadth about 3 miles.
The appearance of the country in the lower, or 3. W. end of

the

tf Kilmartin. 91

the pariih, is rather hilly than mouatainoiis, with arable and
paftare groonds intermixed. Soaie of the hills being covered
with green, and others with ihort heath, are confidered as
good paftare for cattle. The upper or N. £. end is much
higher land, more adapted to pailure than tillage, (though it
contains a coniiderable extent of arable ground), and, till of
late, has been occupied as fucb. The foil in the lower end is
rather light, yet fertile, producing what are here confidered
as good crops. In the upper end it is deeper, yet the land
being high and cold, the grain is late in ripening and ill fill*
cd. The yaUey, from the church of Kilmartin, to Lochow, is
one of the moft beautiful in the Highlands. The rocks co*
Tered on each fide with trees to their fummits, form a pic«
turefque aj^earance ; and the luxuriance of the wood fliews
that planting of every fort would thrive welL The cli-
mate does not differ much from other parts of the country ;
but although wet, is not unhealthy. Agues ^re feldom
known, nor are there any pulmonary complaints^ Fevers, of
the low and nervous fort, are found amongft the lower clafs«
arifing from want of cleanlinefs, and from a poor diet. The
foil is fertile, and yields good crops of barley. There is a
large traft of mofs near Crinan, which is very improveable;
and the proprietor, Mr. Malcolm of Pohalloch, much to his
credit, intends, it is laid, to let it out in fmall portions to
tenants, for improving it, which will be of great ufe, both by
increafing population, and by fetting an example, worthy to
be followed, in other parts of the country.

Laketf ^r.-— The only confiderable lake in this parifii is
Lochon^, a part of which forms a boundary between it and
Glafrie to the N. £. for about 6 miles. The whole lake is
computed to be 24 miles in length ; but it is not broad in

Ma any

9 2 Stati/iical Account

any part. It abounds with tronts and falmon. The fifliing, to
a certain extent^ is the property of an heritor of this parilh.
There is a pecular fpecies of fi(h in it, called black trouts^
which are fliort and thick, black in the ikin, and red in the
fiOi. The incumbent has feen one of them that weighed i61b.
and when cut up, two fmall trouts were taken out of it
entire, one of them meafuring 12 inches, the other. lo.
This ii(hing, however, has not hitherto been fo very produc*
tive, as to make it an objeft worthy of much public notice.

Sea Coqft and ttjb* — The extent of coaft will be from 7 to
8 miles, nearly S. and N., formed by an arm of the fea,
called Loch Craignilh. The fea, by which the fouth part of
this pariih and North Knapdale is bounded to the W. and
N. W., is formed into a ftrait by the Ifland of Jura, which
divides it from the Weftern Ocean. The fliorc is, for
the moil part, high and rocky, except the Bay of Crinan, and
the end of Lgch Craignilb, (which are fine flat fand), and a few
other fmaller creeks.

There is a fpecies of fifli taken on this coaft, which goes
by the general name of Grey fifli. They are of different
lizes, mod of them much larger than herrings. They are
generally caught in the evening and morning, with rods and
lines, but not in great quantities ; though they are very ufe«
ful, contributing not only to the fupport of thofe, who refide
within a mile or two of the coaft, during the fummer, which
is the fcareeft feafon, but affording them alfo light in the win-
ter by their oil.— -There arelikewife in the Bay of Crinan, cod,
ling, turbot, foles, &c. in great abundance^ but the people
are not ikilful in catching them— Herrings are frequently
taken in Loch Craig nifli and Loch Crinan, though not to any
great extent \ alfo the fineft oyfters that are any where to be
found, and in great plenty, Jn the former, about 6 years

ago,

of Kilmartin. 53

ago, there were about 500 1. worth of herrings caught, by from
20 to 30 boats, in the courfe of 4 or 5 weeks, (though moft of
them were ill provided with nets or ikilful hands), and fold
in the country, at from 10 d. to i s. the hundred. They gene-
rally appear upon the coaft from July to Auguft. The other
fea animals, are, feals, peltocks, otters, and fome fmall whales,
that come to the coaft in purfuit of the herrings*

The fea weed, ufefiil for manure, and driven afliore by the
ftorms, is a fort of long grafs, called fea grafs ; it is generally
ufed for potatoes ; and when laid on in large quantities, gives
middling crops of that root. There is alfo a weed, called
tangle^ fometimes made into kelp, which is a richer manure,
and, when moderately laid on, and not often Repeated, (with-
out a mixture of fome cooling (luff, to correft the hotfcalding
nature of it), is found to give good crops of bear. The kelp,
is not fo confiderable, as might be expefted from the extent of

fhore, for it produces only from 10 to 12 tons yearly. The

courfe of the tides, upon the fliore and adjacent fea, is pretty
much from N. to S.,' and the reverfe. The coaft of this jpa-
riih does not lie in the courfe of vefTels ; but the excellent
harbour of Crinan invites them to anchor in it *• — There are

feveral

* Loch Crinan 14 not only the beft harbour of this pariih, but is coolidered
as the beft upon a great tradfc of the weftem coaft. In thlt harbour, al«
moft the whole of the bufs herring fleet anchor, in their voyages to and from the
fiihing ground, bcfides a vaft number of veflels from Great Britain and Ireland;
and they are frequently detained in this harbour, for feveral weeks, waiting for
a fair wind to take them round the Mull of Kintyre. By a fnrvey recently
made, it has been found pradicable, to make a navigable canal for large fea-
bttilt veifels, from this to Jjoch Gilp, which is only 5 tniles acrofs. And Mr.
Reanie, an eminent engineer, who furveyed it, is of opinion, that it maybe
made, at a very moderate expence, and with plenty of water for boats and
barges, as well as large veflels. It is hardly poflible to ezprefs the aftonifliing
i(ivantages, with which the opening of this communication will be attended to

^ Statlfticat Account

feveral iflands belonging to this pariih ; but only % of tliem
are any thing confiderable ; with fome bays or creeks, fafe
harbours for coafting veilels. — The lower end of this pariih*9
npoB the Bay of Crinan, and contiguous to the place of the
propofed canal, is confidered by many as a proper fituation
for a village, there being fooae arable land, with a great ex-
tent of low flat mo(s coming to the ihore, which might not
only fumiih convenient fuel, but could be eafily improved
by drainbgt and with the advantage of ihell iand» which is in

great

the people of t^ part of the kingdom. It will not only enable the inhahittnti,
to avoid entirely the vciy dangerous pafTage round the MuU of Kintyre, but,
hj afibrding a ready market for all the produdions of the Weftem Ifles, it will
invite the people to purfue a variety of kinds of indufby, to vrhich they have
hitherto been ftrangers. Above all, it will enable them to fapply themlclvet
irith ialt and coaU ; and if the duty were taken off the laft, and rock lalt allow-
«d to be imported, the people in thefe countries would be as happy as they are
BOW miferable, and they would be under no temptation of leaving their native
Ibily to try their fortunes in America.— A fubfcription is fct on foot for this in»-
yortant purpofe ; and there is little doubt, that, from the fpirited exertions now
SMiking, a fufficient fum will he raifed. And, when the great magnitude of the
trade is confidered, there is reafon to believe, that it will repay the fubfcribers
▼ery liberally for the iiuns they may advance. If that ihould take place, a
communication for boats, could be made from thence to Lochow, which is only
5 miles difbant, and would open an extenfive and fertile country of near %% miles,
and be of great advanuge, to the Unded property, of that part of the county of
AfgylL

* There are no monuments of antiquity, bnt fome cairns or heaps of ilooet.
Though thefe are to be met with in many parts of the country, yet they are
liaore frequent in the lower end of this pariih, which, being near a fafe harbour,
«nd coniidered as a good fpot of hnd, is foppofed to have given occafion to
many disputes and quarrels; and tradition poinu out thefe cairns, as the burial
places of thofe of the lower dafs, who fell io fuch roflflias. Near fome of thefe
cairns, there are a number of great fiones, Handing upon end, from 4 to 8, or lo
leet above the furface, placed in a line, though rather irregular. They are alfo
ynarkcd, by the &me fource, ai the places where thofc of greater note have beca
laady but without any figure or charader.

iff ^itmartiii. g§

great abundance, would yield good crops, and afford employment
and fubliftence to fettlers. The introdu&ion of manufa&ures^
(it is apprehended), would not be difficult, there beiog an eaf/
communication with the Low Coun^rj. It is alfo at no great
dillance from the fifiiing ftations ; and there 15 hardly a year^
but there are herrings from July to Auguft, and fometime*
later, in moft of the bays and creeks upon the weft coaft of
Argyll. — There is a falmon fiJhing on the bay of Crinan, tho
property of Mr. Malcolm of Pottalloch. It has not^ hitherto^
been very produftive. The fiih, are generally (old in the
country, frefli, from z^ d. to a d. the pound ; but it might be
greatly extended, by fpirited management, which, there is every
reafon to think, will be the cafe, both in regard to fi(hing and
knds, under the adive and public fpirited proprietor, who haa
lately purchaied that property.

Minerals and Floods. — Thete id a copper mine, which haa
been wrought upon for fome years^ in the property of Mr*
Campbell of ELilmartin : the company who had taken it, be*
ing diffolved, it has been difcontinued for ibme time, without
afcertainiag its value, though the appearance was judged
favourable^— Coals would be a happy difcoverj* There ace
no land floods, except the overflowings of a fmall water^
which runs through a valley for about 6 miles, and falls in"
to the fea at Crinan j it unites with a larger river, which
partly divides this parifli from Knapdale and Glafrie, abovt
half a mile before it falls into the fea. There are feveral cu«
rious rocks of limeftone, of the fchiftus kind, which are e-^
^uallj convenient for building and manure.

Ammals^-'^'X^Bdmpeis of the wild kind are fbzesi hares,
badgers, wild cats, pole-cats, weafles. Native birds are black
cocks, and muirfowls ia the hill ^ crows, pyots, and wild

pigeon»

$6 Stdllftical Account

pigeons in the low grounds, with different kinds of hawks^
and a few eagles. Upon the (bore, fea-maws, with various
forts of ducks, and migratory birds : woodcocks appear
early in winter, and difappear in fpring ; alfo fi^rans on
the fea and lakes* Thofe fowls, called widgeons, appear
early in fpring, if the feafon is mild, and difappear a-
bout the middle or latter end of autumn, as the weather is
moderate, or otherwife. There are fome good black cattle,
both in point of fliape and fize, which are reared from a few
ftocks in this parifb, and fetch at the rate of, from 7 h to 9l«
the cow and calf. Young cattle fell in proportion.

Population. — There are no records, by which the ftate of
this pariih, with regard to population, can be traced rery far
back ; the general belief is, that it has decreafed between 70
and 80 fouls within thefe laft 20 years*. — The increafe how-
ever within thefe 40 years is confiderable. The prefent num-
ber of fouls (all of whom refide in the country), is as follows :

Males, - - 760 ") _ ^

Females, - - 777I " ^''"^^ ' '"^

The number returned to Dr. Webfler in 1755, was, - 11 30

Increafe, - 387

t Average

• What has aflfcAcdthe population moft, within that period, is, the laying oot
fome lands entirely in pafture ; 2 or 3 farms being now thrown into the hands
of one grazier, which were formerly polTcfled, fome by 4, and fome by 8 tenanta
each, but are now the relldence only of a herd or two : And at the end of the
leaTes, which are very (hort in this country, (being only from 5 to 7 years with
the lower order of tenants), fuch farms as are adapted to it are,ahnoft always,
laid oot in paflure. This has not operated, however, fo much again ft popabtion
in general, as againft a particular dais of the inhabicants. It reduces the number
of the tenants, but it adds to that of the cottagers, as they are often kept, upon
fome of the farms, that are laid out in pafture. But although this may in part make
up the deficiency in population, brought on by this mode of occupying lands;
yet, upon the whole, it is found, that there has been fome decreafe in the num^r
ber of inhabitants ilncc the commenccmect of it, or within thcfc ao years.

tf kilmarHft. '

Average of births for 5 years

preceding 1791, - 30
.. of tnarriag;es for the fame

period*, - - II
» of children produced by

each, about - - 3 J
Number of bachelocs above ao
years of age t» " " 7°

Perfons under xo years of age, 443

- from 10 to ao,
« from ao to 3O,

- from 50 to 70,

- from pQ to 89*,

457

640

i6a

SitMattcmc/ibt

Number 0/ familUs,

Average 9/ Perfoiu

inhaULmis.

im eoih.

Gentry, - -

. 6

- - ir

Tcnanttf,

- 100

- 6

Crofters J, -

- a4

Cotters J , or cottagers

- 133

•

S nearly

ChiDge-keepers,

Vol. VIII.

Taylors

• Thert is mo refffler 0/ deaths. There ate /ew aiove 8 j im the purlflt^ and mmefo
eld a> 90.

f The proportion of bachelors io the annual marrijiges is %bout 6 to I : Of
the latter to the whole population, as I to 19 ; and of the births, as I to 50.

\ The tenaifts, particularly of arable famU, have but fnmll pofleifions, only
the fourth part of a farm, or what is called Ji^re 9, hor/cfoMg', £6 that there ar^
generally 4 upon every farm, and (omctixiae^ 6 and 8 when it is a Urge one.
The work of the farm is carried on in comqion among the whole tenants, wi^
their wives and children. They feldom employ any fervan^, and fHch only oc-
cailonally, when their children arc not of ^if t^ g^ve any aQifUnce,

§ The qrofur ia tfspant oC a fiiU finaller pQffei|lod. He qccvpiea a piece of
arable land, m^iibcd ou( for himfelf, which maj he, from x, to a, or 3 acres;
though not geneir^y s|ieAfufed, with graft lot i or a cows, in common with the
cattle of the next farm. It were to be wiihed that this mode would become more
l^eneral, and the crottf ma^dc larger, aa it ia found, that a piece of land, in the
management of z man, with ordinary care and indaAry,'wiU make it more
produdive, in proportion, than ft larger extent, wl^ under, the dh-eAion of •
greater number.

II The cotters are tlie moft numerous chft, in which are comprehended the
tradefinen, the day labourers, the old infirm reduced tenants, anil federal widows.
The cotter poflefles only a finall hovfe and garden, fometimes without a cow*t
grafs, and even potaioc land^ but what he mnft purchaie from tbe tenants. He

. I

^ "Statiftical Account

Taylor*,

Shoemakert,

Weavers, -

MiUcrs,

♦

Smith*, 7

- 4

Ferryman, - • .

Houfe carpenters,

- 3

Salmon fifher,

Boat carpenter.

Apprentices, - - .

Plough and cart maker.

Men fervants *,

Wheel wright,

- I

Women fervants.

' %9

Climate and Difea/es — The climate is rather rainy ; yet
the inhahltants depend more upon temperance and exercife,
than phyfic, for health. There are none of the faculty there-
fore in the parifh, though fome refide at no great diflance.
There are no dedrudive epidemical diilempers, but the fmall-
pox and meaffes. The danger of the former is nearly done
away by inoculation (which is. become pretty general here),
and that danger would be flill lefs, if the lower people paid more

atteatioQ

IS independent of the tenants, for the farm on which he refides, holding his po(^
feQion from tHe proprietor, to whom his rent and fervices arc payable. The old
and'ittfirm,bdng reckoned in this order, makes the average of their families
fall 16wer. llicrc may be about zo young lads, who hire themfclves for the
north fifhing yearly, and return lo the parifh when it is over ; there being no
■vcffeN from this place at that fifhing.

Bctt^ een io and 25 years ago, at different periods, about 40 families of
tenants have been deprived of tfieir- poffcllions by a number of large farms be-
iag laid out Into pafttA-e. By tbe common calculation, this would diminiih the
population ^out.aoo. But^'upon many of the farms, fome of the former poi^
fclTors are retained as cotters, and. others are put in, to preferve the houfes, or
iiggiagst as they are called, in cafe it might be found necelTary, at fome future
p<5rio«J, to rptwn to the former mode of occupying the farms by fmall tenants,
particularly lai itis adapted for tillage By thcfc means, t the lofs which popula-
tion YVOtfld 0|:h«rwireTu{laxn,is, in a coniidcrabk degree, made up.

^ As the gertT): in this pariih are but few, and the refiding heritors ilill fcwcr»
there arc nQt.many fervants, and even thelc are occaHooaUy employed as labour-'
ing fvTvants, paiticularly duruig hzrvcit and bay making*

of Ktltnartin. -• 59

bitten tion to the regimen of their children upon thefe occa«
Sons. There is another complaint vrhich prevails among
children, and generally thofe about 12 years of age and
tinder, called the hooping cough. It is exceedingly ferere, and
particularly dangerous, when it attacks very young children.
It is generally very lingering. The continuance and fe verity
of it, may confiderably depend, upon the feafon of the year
when it comes on.

Woodj Cattle, i^c, — The natural wood here, confifts moftly
of oak and afli, with fome birch and hazel, but not to any
great extent. Within thefe 25 years, at different periods,
100,000 trees, it is faid, have been planted upon onfe gentle-
man's property, of different kinds of fir, oak, aih, beech, elm,
and a variety of other trees. Upon a few other properties,
there have been alfo fomc planted, though to a lefs extent.

The cattle in this parUhjOf the di^rcrent kinds, may Blaei CaUk, Hwfet, Sbe^
amount to, - - - - - - l8oo 350 6000

Of thefe, there may be in the pofieffion of the fmall

tenants, in parcels on the different farms, about - looo a8o 1300

The reft are in the hands of the graziers, and the principal
tackiinen *•

Cultivation and Produce. — There is no general furvey of
this parilh; though a few of the heritors have got their eftates
xneafured^ yet neither the arable, nor the paflure ground, is laid
out by meafure. The arable land is divided into in^Jield and out'
Jield'f the in-field into three equal parts; in one of thefe theire is
bear, in another oats, and the third is moftly in potatoes. Next
year, the bear follows the potatoes, oats the former bear, and

N % potatoes

* There is a part of this pariih which does not winter black cattle, yet fm^ .'
tnors about 200, which are not in the above enumeration.

. I

100 Statifitcal Account

potatoes the diyifioa which was lad in oats. This rotatioii
is continued from year to jear ^ the manure being generally
lime, and the dung the cattle makes in winter. The out*
field, is allowed 'to lie lej, or in pa0ure, for % years, and the
milk cattle and (heep are folded upon it : Then there are 2
running crops of oats, and fometimes 3, taken of it, and the
fame reft, and cropping is continued, being the general procefs
of agriculture in this country. There is no grafs feed fowa
but by I gentleman ; and the extent of land is not afcertained-
The parifli fupplies the inhabitants with beef, mutton, buttei:
and cheefe; but it hardly does fo in meal for 7 months ef the
year, and the bear, being all dI(lilledintowhi&y,occafionsacon-
^derable quantity of that grain to be imported. The time of fow-
ing oats, is froqi the beginning of April to the middle of it j
the potatoe planting begins then ; and bear from the 8th to the
1 5th of May. The bear is begun to be cut towards the lat»
ter end of Auguft, and the oats about the middle or end of
September, and fometimes in Oftober— As the foitth end of
the pariih, lies moftly upon the (hore, near a good harbour, it
is equally calculated for tillage and pafture. The arable land^
(which is confidered among the bed in this part of the coun-
try), lying low, and ripening pretty early, with the materials
for improving it almoft upon every field, fuch as limeftone
.and mofs, with the appearance of marl in different places,
though hitheito not much tried. The north end is confider-
ed among the bell pailure land *•

fropriitCTf

* The wages of ma)e fervants, in the different kinds of kufiiandiy or domei^
tic work, by the year, is from 61 to 7 1. ; of female fervants, from 50 s. to 3 1.^
only, in har?eft, a female may make from 25 s. to 30 s. for 3 months. The£e
wages are coolidered as high here ; aaid the rife being within thefe few years,
is imputed to the different improvements going on in the Low Country, this
\ Jttrilh being nearly a day's journey fo it, and many of the fcnrtnts acquainted

With

of Kilmarlin. loi

Proprietors and Rent. — There art la heritors ; only ^ re-
fide in the pariftij whereby above 2000 1, of the rent is fpcnt
out of it.

The valued rent is about - L'3643 3 © Scotch j
The real rent about - 3453 o Q Sterling.

One gcntleman^s property in the fouth extremity, upon the
bayofCrinaii, confiding of 3822 acres, of which 1026 are
arable, is valued at 1089 1. 7 s. Scotch 5 the real rent is about
730 1. Sterling. This is the principal property in the parifli,
and may be greatly improved by cultivating the mofs above
mentioned. Another gentleman's property, on the north
end of the parifh, confids of extenfive hill land. The whole
efiate was furveyed ; but i farm of it being in the neighbour-
ing parifh, makes the exad number of acres belonging to this
didrid uncertain, but it is believed by the proprietor to be
about 7000. The valued rent is 41QL 13 s, Scotch ^ the real

renf

with the wages there, muft have fomethtng iiear ijK, though there are Deithc».
improvemeots oor mannfadures to afford it>

There ate 4a ploughs, i to every farm, though there may he 6 more farmi,
and eiteBfive as to hill, they can hardly he'faid to have a plough, as their Towing
will not confift of ahove a boH or two, of a kind of final! black bearded eoiti, or
oau, for feeding cattle in winter. X^cre are abou( zo or i« of the above 'OunH
ber, who plovgh little more than what ferves the cattle in fevere winters.*-^
About 15 years ago, there was a plough-maker almoft in every other famu
Any perfon, who coilfidered himfelf ppffeffed of greater iagacity than his neigh-
boMT, wobt to the wood, and took fuch fticks as had a natural call for his pus*
pole, which being joinod in a moft clumiy maimer, without the leaft ^Aowledge
of mechanical principlea, formed what was called a plough, ft tore up tbo
land, indeed, but with great labour both to man and horfe. There is now
a regular bred plough-maker, who has been fettled in the parilh thefe 6 years.
^e kind ufed, is the common {Ilough, drawn by four horfes a-breaft, the driver,
%ith his fiMe to the knrfes, going backwards. There are only 1% carts, thefe
\nflempiU of boibaDdry not beio^ as yet much ufed by the tenants.

102 St{itj/iical Account

rent is rather above 800 1. Sterling. • Th« great rife in this
property has taken place within thefe 4 years ; and there has
been nearly the fame proportion with regard to the rife of
rent in the reft of the pafture and arable land. The great
demand for black cattle, and the flieep ftocks, brought theex-
tenfive hill land (the greateft part of which is covered with
heath), into repute, which, about 40 years ago, and- even af^
ter that period, was very low rented, as of little value to
cither poffeffor or proprietor. On this property, there is about
600 1. faid to be laid out in ftone dikes. The rent of cot
houfcs, the only kind that are let, will be from 10 s. to 15 s.,
without cither grafs or potatoe land: The fervices arc la
days with their viftuals ; but there being few refiding heri-
tors, thefe fervices are moftly commuted to both cotters and
tenants, the cotters for 6 d. per day, the tenants for i s.j they
being ftill, however, liable for fervices with horfes.

Stock and Produce* — As to the average value of the live
ftock, it is not eafy afcertained with any great accuracy, the
knowing ones, in that way, differing in opinion ; yet, at a me-
dium, it may be from 4 1. to 4 1. 10 s. the cow, of 3 years old
and upwards ; the horfes from 7 1. to 8 1. above 2 years old ;
the iheep in the ftock way, being the black faced kind, about
z 2 s* ; The fmall tenants (beep, being of an inferior kind,
from 5 s. 6*d. to 6 s. Wool, <:lean and tarred, 7 s. the ftone,
of 24 Englifh pounds ; cheefe, 5 s. when foft and green ;
butter, II s. the ftone: Common fowls, a hen, 6 d., the cock,
4d. ; the dozen of eggs, 2d* The laft articles feem upon
the rife, there being a weekly packet from Loch Gilp to Green-
ock, which brought on a confiderable demand. — As to the
annual produce, it can hardly be afcertained with any degree
of accuracy, the land not being laid out by acres, nor the
people very ezad as to the quantity of feed they fow ; but

from

. of Kilmartin* \ J05

from the beft infotnMiriop that can be got^ the lower, ot S.W,
end of the pari&, the principal arable part of it (being itearlj
one half of the valued rent, and two-fifths of the xtel)» maj
fow 540 bolls white oats, and 80 bolls bear : The produce does
not esdeed 3i feeds of oats ; and in bear, generallj. about 5^ or
6 return^' The boll of oats fells, at from ijs. to 175., accord-
ing to the quality ; the bear, frona ao s« to i% s/ The mea**
fure, is reckoned larger, bj nearly a pecks, than the Linlithgow
.boll. There are coniiderable crops of potatoes, not. that the
increafe is great, but large quantities being planted,, fotne in
the drilled way, the boll of them geoerally fells, from 5 s. to
6 s., 10 autumn and winter* There is no regular meafare for
them, 3 barrels (herring gau^e), being reckoned, nearly a
bolL When they fail, the tenants are much at ^.lofs, being
under the necefliity of ufing, for the fupport of th^ir families,
the vi&ual that was defigned for the rent.

Farms. — ^The rent of arable farms, according to their quality
and extent, may be from 40 1. to 80 }. They are pofle&d, the
fmaller farms by 4, and the larger by 6, and fome times 8 tenants.
The ftock or holding of thefe farocjs, may bie, from 24 to 48
cows, befides fome young caule ; tjrom 30 to 60 iheep-; and
from 8 to 12 horfes, according ta their different exigents. . .The
fowing is much in the fame propqjtion} oats, from .20 to. 45
bolls ; bear , from 3 to 6 bolls. ^Yhat is called bear here, is
greatly inferior to the Low Country barley, . Jt would be
the intereft of the tenant to reduce his ilock at lead a fourth,
as, by the prefent management,. there is neither ootilknor rear-
ing in proportion to the nuniber of cattle. Wheayoung,
they are at ibort allowance as to milk, and pinehod. in igi;af»
when further advanced ; fo that few -of th^m turn out to be
good cattle. . This holds good, however, only wich regard to
the cattle of the fmall tenants. - ' •

Church. —

104 Staiiftical Account

Churcb.'^^Tht living, as modified by decreet in the year
1765, is xoooL Scotch, including communion elements; 11
confiderable part being in vidua], make it, communibus annif,
about 100 1. Sterling, with the glebe, whioh is fuppofed to be
legal as to extent, with 4 foums grafs, in common with the
cattle of the farm* The grab is not coniidered as worth 10 s.
each foum, in the year, notwithftanding the great rent of grafs
lands, that a cow's grafs cannot be got below 25 and 30 s. on
fome of the pafture farms. — Tlie Duke of Argyll is patron. —
The church was built in the year 1601. The walls are ilrong,
but the plan is incommodious. It is a long narrow ftripe,
and has had no reparation or improvement fince it was built^
except giving it a new roof. The pulpit is a curiofity, and is
thought not to be matched in Scotland^ It is an old Gothic
ilru&ure of ftones and lime, about 7 feet from the level of the
floor, and is coeval with the church. The manfe was built in
the year 1789, and is a tolerable commodious houfe.

Schools and Poor.— ^There is a parochial fehool, with a fa^
lary of X4!. 48., made iip by 6d. on the pound valuation, and
mortified money, befides feiBon emoluments and quarter wages.
The number of fchdars will be, in winter, from 80 to 90 ;
but fewer in fummer* There is alfo a fociety fchool, with 9L
iabry, attended by about 40 fcholars in winter. The taile
here does not run much on the learned languages, there being
£ew gentlemen's children.-— The number of poor upon the pa-
ri(h lift, is generally from a 8 to 32. There is no eftabliihed
fund for them befides the church coUefiions ; and in a country
pariih, where there are but few gentry, and the lower clafs
qE tenants rather poor, and rarely having money in their hands,
the coUedion mnft be very inconfiderable. The principal
tackfm/en do not xefide. This fmall fund, may, with the fa-
cramental coUeAion, amount to lol. or I2l. a-year, and is dif-

5 tributed.

of Kilmartin. 105

tribnted, at ftated times, and will only enable to get a pair of
ffaoesy or fome piece of clothes. Thej get their fubfiftence
bj begging from door to door ; and, not being confined to their
own pariflies, come in great numbers from moft corners of the
kingdom. Among them there are many (lurdj beggars, more
able to labour for their bread, than many of thofe who ferve
them. It were to be wiihed, that fome plan were adopted, by
which the condition of real obje&s might be rendered more
comfortable, and thofe who are able, made to contribute in
fome degree, to their own fupport.

Village^ Fuel:, Wr— There afe no villages, except Kilmar-
tin, which is the place of worfliip, and other parochial meet*
ings. It has a commodious inn, fituated upon the great road
from the fouth end of Kintyre, by Tarbert and Lochgilp, and
leading to Fort William, by Craignifli and Lorn. It has 3
markets in the year, i for black cattle, and 2 for horfes, where
the country people gather from 15 to 20 miles round, with
webs of linen and woollen clothes, and fuch fmall parcels of
lint, as can be fpared from their families. Although fituated
upon the coaft *, there are few feafaring people, as there is
no trade to employ them. The harbour behind Ilan da-vain,
and below Duntroon Cafile, has good anchorage, and fafe from
all winds, with eafy accefs to veffels of any burden. — The
fuel commonly ufed is peats, a moft precarious firing in this

V0L.VIIL O rainy

* No (hips have been wrecked on this coaft in the memory of any now liv-
ing, though, within thefe xo years, there were 4 veflels, of confiderable fizc,
driven afh«re in the bay of Crinan, with their cargoes. They were foreign
▼efiels, and ignorant of the coaft ; but the beach and ground are fu excellent, that
they were got off without any £tfther damage, but the lofs of a little time, and
fome trifling ezpence : fo that there was no occafion for any extraordinary ex*
ertion of humanity and generoiity, though^ bad there been occafion, it would not
have been wanting.

, I

I c6 Stati/iical Account

rainj climate. There are few peats fold, as people general]/
endeavour to make their own ; but when they are, the ordi-
nary price is from 20 d. to 2 s. the cart, according to the time
they are bought, in harveft or fpring. The cart may fur«
nifli I fire, to an ordinary family, for 5 or 6 days.

CbaraSfer^ i^r.-^The people, in general, are of a middling
fize, fquat, and pretty ftrong made, though not very remarkable
for extraordinary ftrcngth. They are from jf feet to 5 feet 10
inches, few of them 6 feet. In general, they are difpofed to induf-
try, if it were properly diredted. They are little attached to a
military life ; but when induced to enter into the fervice,
they have turned out good foldiers, and become even fond of
the profcffian. The few gentry here, live genteelly, without
being extravagant. The other clafs of the inhabitants, are
economids from necefCty ; their only luxury being a little
whiiky occafionally, which excites fome mirth and glee.
Their general charaAer, however, is fobriety. They com-
plain of a difficulty in making up their rents, and confequent-
ly, they muft pinch themfelves in fome of the comforts, or
even neceflaries, of life ; yet, upon the whole, they feem
cheerful and contented.

Di/advaniages.^^The writer of this article will not prc
fume to fay, whether the rent of farms here, may or noay not
be too high ; but he will venture to afTert, that the proprietors
of arable farms, do not put them in that condition, which
would enable the tenant to make the mod of them. They are
indeed generally inclofed, as to their limits or boundaries with
the neighbouring farms, but all within, is one great open.
The leafes given, being only from 7 to 9 years, and fome
even ihorter, are confidered as a difcouragement to improve-
ment. Few of the fmall tenants of arable farms here, can af-
ford

of Kilmartin. 107

ford to lay out much money upon their farms ; but even if
any of them (hould have the fpirit, to lay out part of their
time and labour, in improving a piece of land, which other-
wife might be of little value, from the profped of advan-
tage to themfelvesy though not immediate, upon looking for-
ward, he is difcouraged, as he finds his leafe, before he had
time to put his £arm in order, drawing near an end ; and thus
the fruit of his labour, from which he might have any return
himCelf, is to be conveyed to another, for a trifle of more rent*
For 2 or 3 years, therefore} before the end of the leafe, the tenant
does nothing but what brings an immediate return. The leafe
being fo fhort, makes the return of thefe periods frequent,
which muft hurt the farms confiderably, and confequently
the proprietors themfelves, ultimately. Another circum*
ftance, which is confidered as un£sivourable to improvement,
is, the crouding many tenants upon one farm ; 4, 6, and 8.
It is well known, that no work, under the 'management o£
many, where every one claims an equal ihare in the direction,
can go fmoothly on. Different opinions may occafion fome
obflxu£Uon, efpecially if any thing, out of the common trad,
is to be done« By this obfervation, it is not meant to put
the farms into fewer hands $ but to divide them, and for the
xnoft part to have but one on each poffeiBon ; and when they
happen to be larger, two. This would bring on a confiderable
outlay; yet might form a fource of more fure income to the pro-
prietor, and greater comfort to the tenant. This divifion has
been found v^rj ufeful in other parts of Argyll-fhire«

Mifcettaneous Obferoations. — This not being a commercial
country, money is flow in its circulation \ fo that there can
be no inducement for a Jew to reiide in it. All the inhabiu*
ants, except % fliepherds, are natives of this and the neigh-
l>ouring pariihes* Such difputcs as require the inveftigation

O2 of

. I

1 08 Statifiical Account

of lawyers, arc generally fettled at Inveraray, before the flic-
riff of the county, and fometimes at Edinburgh.

This parifli, and indeed the whole of the country, is hap-
pily free from thofe diftraSions, which feem to attend the di-
vifions and fubdivifions, with regard to religious tenets and
church government, which prevail too much in different parts
of Scotland. Here, all are of the Eftabliflied Church.

In the year 178a, when the fcarcity of meal became general
in the country, though felt here very much, yet there was no
abfolute want, the proportion which fell to this parifli, of
the meal given by the Society for the Support of the Poor,
being fold at Inveraray. — There have been only 3 families,
during theCe 30 years, who have emigrated to North America.
Some young men and women, go yearly to ferve in the Low
Country, merely in expeftation of higher wages, though
they generally return within a year or two. A coniiderable
number, particularly of the cotter clafs, go to the harveft ;
fome as far as the Lothians. Three families, this year, have
gone to the cotton work, and fome others fpeak of following
them, though it feems to be with reludance, as they confider
the employment to be rather unfavourable to health, having
formerly led an afiive life. — The language commonly fpoken,
is the Gaelic, which is the native tongue, though the Englifli is
generally a little underftood even by the common people, and
fpoken by many *. — There is no market for butcher meat.

Such

* The derivation of the namei of placet feemi to be from the Gaelic, and to

originate from lome advantage or difadvantage peculiar ^ the place, whether

with regard to foil or eipofure, or any other particular circumftance. The fitaa-

tion of the farm houfes, feems to have given names to many places, whether at the

foot or top of a hill, in a flat or a hilly part, hy a river or founuin : For infUnce,

Achmhbanitj the field by the hill, or mountain ; Acbaebrum^ the crooked field \

Gienebaim^ the glen by the cairn ; Tigb^O'cbarr, the houfe by the great ftone or

rock ; AeiofieJam^ the fieM by the ifland; BanMHy the hilly place ; CulonmU, at the

foot or back of a hUl, ^c, Thae aro many fimilar to thcfe, though the names

tf Ktlmartin. log

Such as deal in that kind of provifion, muft flaughter for
themfelves, this bemg a fpecies of luxury, which the ordinary
clafs of tenants cannot afford to indulge in. — ^The wages of a
common day labourer, at hufbandry, road making, or any
other work in that way, is from i s. to 14 d. ; taylors, 8 d.
and their riSuals ; (hoemakers, 6 d.^ houfe carpenters and ma*
fons,are generally paid by the piece, but when by the day, from
20 d. to 2s. without viduals. A married day labourer,
with 3 or 4 children, would confider 10 1. as a good pro-
fpe& for a year's fubfiilence, with fome potatoes. — ^The
prefent wages would give that profped, but the uncer-
tainty of the weather occaiions much loft time*. — ^No manu*
fadures, properly fo called, arc carried on : There may be
fome fpinning and knitting, in the intervals of labour by bro*
ken weather, and in the winter nights ; and alfo drefGng fmall
parcels of lint, by the common people ; but thefe are princi«
pally for the ufe of their families. There are no other manu-
fadures, except a whilky diftillery. — ^Property has undergone
little change for a century back, till of late that aneftateof 7141.
free rent, fold at 25,050 1. \ and another fmall property, abo^t
a years ago, at nearly the (ame proportion.

of many other place a, to one who has not acquired a critical knowledge of
that language, may feem arbitrary, as no obvious connexion appears with re-
gard to fitnation, or any otheztciroimibuice.

* The prices of labour, and other things, about 40 or 50 years 9go, cannot
be afccrtained by any written record ; yet there are many people who remenw
ber thcfe periods well, and the common prices of the times, having had frequent
occafion to pay them. About the year 1745, cows fold from %$ s. to 30 s., equal
to thofe of 4 1. and 5L in the prefent times; nor was there any great rife, for fe-
deral years after that period ; iheep, from %%, 4 d to 3 s ; cheefe much the fame
by the ftone, being then 7 d. per lb. ; butter, 6d. The ordinary w&ges of female
fervants, by the year, was ii merks; of male fervants, from 14 merks to 301.
of taylors, the heft of them 4 d. a day, and their viduals ; and of other tradef-
men in proportion. Meal feems to be the article, which has undergone the leaft
change,*for thefe 30 years back -.though variable in iu price, yet it is generally
from 14 s. to 26 s. the bclL

. I

1 1 a Statlftical Account

NUMBER VIIL
PARISH OF AUCHTERTOUL.

{County and Synod ^f Fife — Pre/by tery of Kirkcaldy.)
By tie Rev. Mr. John Sgott.

Name^ Extent and ProfpeB.

AUCHTER is faid to be an Erfe word, fignifying a height ;
and toulj or tool^ feems to be a corruption of 7^^ /, the name
bj which a fmall ftream of water, that rifes in the pariih, and
runs into the fea toward the eaft, is diftinguiflied. Thus
Auchtertool feems to fignify the heights, or higher grounds
upon the TeeL The parifh is about 2 miles in length, and z
mile in breadth. There is a fmall village in the parifh, and
the church is fituated about half an Englifh mile to the weft
cf it. The ground about the church and manfe is elevated
and commanding, and takes in a fine view of the fea to the
eaft, as far as the eye can reach, comprehending in it, the
Ifls of May, the Bafs, North-Berwick Law, and a point of
the Lothian coaft, which ftretches a confiderable way into the
fea.

Sttrfact and SoiL — The forface of the ground is very an«
equal, and varied with eminences and little hills, which caufes
a confiderable difference in the nature and quality of the foil ;
the land being light and thin towards the tops of the rifing

grounds^

of AucbttrtQul. Ill

grounds, and richer and deeper as you defcend. The foil is
light* free and open ; and fuch parts of it, as have a warm
fouthem expofure, are of a good quality : But the ground to-
ward the N. W. end of the pariih, is of a worfe nature,
being a four, wet, clayey foil, and better fitted for pafture
than for cultivation. A few acres, in the neighbourhood, are
covered with heath,, and a few are foft and marfiiy. Thefe laft
have occafionally been burnt, and for 2 or 3 years afterwards
produced good crops ; but they are not of fuch a quality as
to render them fit for the purpofes of general cultivation, or
produAive for any length of time. Several of the faces and
tops of the hills and rifing grounds, are interfperfed and cover-
ed with whins, which render them not only unfit for cultiva-
tion, but of a trifling value even for pafture. If thefe were
inclofed an4 planted, they would both ferve to give a warmth
and ihelter to the neighbouring ground (things very much
wanted in this climate), and tend greatly to improve and
beautify the face of the country, by giving it a more romantic
and pifturefque appearance. Some gentlvmen, in the neigh-
bourhood, are beginning to plant a little on their eftates. The
plan, however, is making but a flow progrefs.

Miis^ri/r.— There are both free-ftone and lime-flone in 'the
pariih ; but none of them are wrought. The tenants, how-
ever, have liberty from the Earl of Moray, the proprietor,
to ufe as much of the lime-ftone as they pleafe, for manure
to their lands ; a circumftance which is of material advantage
to them. The ground is moftly inclofed, partly with fione
dikes, and partly with hedges.

Climate and Lake. — ^The pariih of Auchtertoul, is about 5
miles diftant from tl^ ihore to the eaft, and 4 to the fottth.
In confequence ot this fituation, the air is reckoned good and

3 healthy ;

A I

112 of AucbtertouL

healthy ; being oeltber fo near the fea, as to render it too
thin and penetrating, nor at fo great a diftance from it, as to
render it thick and unwholefomp. There is onljr one foiali
lake in the parifli (Camilla Loch), in which there are feme
perch. The lake takes its naoae from the old houfe of Ca-
milla*, adjacent to it; which was fo called after one of the
Counteiles of Moray, whofe name was Campbell.

Population. — ^With refpeft to the ancient ftatc of the popu^
lation, it cannot be exadll j afcertained. But from the regiiler
of marriages and baptifms, which extends as far back as the
year 1675, compared with the regifters that are k«pt at pre-
fent, it appears to have been formerly confiderably more po-
pulous than it is now. This feems owing to the pradice o£
uniting farms, which has taken place here, as well as in many
other parts of the country. What ufed formerly to be 2 or 3
farms, is now thrown into i, and rented by the fame tenant;
fo that the number of families in the pariih, is thereby de*
creafed ; and as there is no trade or manufactures carried on
in the village, to draw the people in from the country, the
population is confiderably diminiijied. Since 1755, that di-
minution has amounted to 55, the population, at prefent, being
334, and according to Dr. Webfter's return, having been 389
fouls. This taile for enlarging ^d uniting farms, which

feems

* Its ancient name was Hailyardi, when it belonged to the family of the
Skenes. It is faid to have been the rendezvous of the Fife lairds at the rebellion
in the year 1 715. When James Vth of Scotland was on his road to the
palace of Falkland, after the defeat of his army on the £n glifli border, under
the command of Oliver binclair, his favourite, he lodged all night in the hcufe
of Hallyards, as he palled, where he was courteoufly received by the Lady of
Grange, ** ant a/ificnt andgodlie matrone^* as Knox calls her. It feems then to
have belonged to the Kirkcaldies of Grange, a family of conHdeiablc note in the
hiftory of Scotland. It is now a ruin.

e/* Aucbtertoul. 113

fetms to be on the iiicreafe throughout Scotland^ will perhaps,
^veDtualljy be unfavourable x6 the population of the country,
fthd moil undoubtedly to the perfotial chara£ier and morals of
its inhabitailts. It forced the people from the a^live, healthy
employments of a country life, to take refuge iii maniifa&ur.
ing towns and pdpuloiis citie^, which may literally be faid to
be the graves of this human fpecies. It is accordingly ob«
ierved, of towns in gehetal, and 6i large manufaduring towns
ih particular; that the iilhabitants are of a more fickly and
delicate appearance, thah their neighbours in the country.
This may arife from the op'eration of various caiifes. From
fhe fed^ntary life, tb which they are accuftomed, which en-
ervates and enfeebles the cdnftitution ; from the impure and
tmwholefome air, which they are coiiftantly breathing ; and
above all, froifa the habits of diffipation and profligacy, which
are always tbd certainly conttaAed, id any great concourfe of
people. And; as it is ftom tbwiis like thefe, that oiir armies
and navies ate mbfily fupplied With recruits, it is eafy tb fee.
How ill fitted, men; of fuch a dfcfcription and mode of life, will,
iti time, become for defending the liberties and deareft rights
of their fellow citizens, ilnd enduring the watchings, the
dangers sliid the toils, which are ihcid^nt td the profeffions of
the foldier and the failcir. It Was the lame body of men, that,
on the banks of the Thrafymenui^ and the Aujidus^ humbled
the pride 6f the Rbman eagle, and empurpled the £eld with
patrician blood, who were afterwards routed on the plains of
Zama^ though ftill fighting under a leader the foremoft in the
i^brld, whofe very name was alindft fufiicient to fecure him
of vidory. But the luxuries of Saguntujn^ ajccording to the
Roman hiflorian*, had enervated and enfeebled the victorious
Carthaginians, and rendered them an unequal match for the
hardy Romans, over whom they had fo often triumphed.
VoL,VlIL P EviU

1 <4 Stati/lical Jc count

Evils like thefe, may not indeed be very fcnfibly perceived
or felt, for a confiderable time : But, though their operation
may be flow, yet it will not, on that atcount, be the lefs ccr*
tain ; nor the lefs to be dreaded in its tendency and confe-
quences, as an accelerator of national weaknefs and decline.
But in our ardour to extend our manufa£lures and our com-
merce, and thereby to multiply the delicacies and luxuries of
life, as well as to increafe our tafte and deiirc for the ufe af
them, we perhaps but too readily forget, that human nature
is but too liable to temptation and corruption, and that infirmity
of body, and depravity of mind, are, fooner or later, the al-
mod certain confequences of every great aflemblage of our
fpecies. We perhaps but too readily forget, that the profpe-
rity, the (lability, and the glory of nations, do not confift fo
much in the wealthy — no, nor even in the numbers^ of their
inhabitants — as in their political, their military, and their
perfonal charader and virtues ; — as in the penetration and the
depth of mind, which they are able to difplay, in difcovering
where their true intereds lie \ in the promptitude and the
ardour, with ii^hich they are, at all times, prepared to guard
and to defend their rights ; and in the pradlice of thofe private
and public virtues, which are alike conducive to the welfare
and fiability of kingdoms, and the perfeftion and aggrandife-
ment of the fpecies.

The prefent date of the population, and the divifion of
the inhabitants, in this didrtd, is pretty nearly as follows :

Number of fouls, - - 334 Number from ao to 5^ • S40

- lul males, - - 148 « ■ 50 to 70^ - 43

' of females, • z86 • 70 to lOO, - lo

■ in the ▼iUage, - ajl ' of farmers, ■* 9

■ in the country, - roj Average number of their families, 9

■' under 10 years of age, 89 Number of male fervants, includ*

■■ from 10 to >o, - ji ing cotters, - 3'

Nwnbcr

of Aucbtertoul.

i«5

Hvinbcr of female ditto, - 14
■ of day labourers, - 8

— - of Wrights, - %

— — of fmiths, - I

— — of fhocmakers, - i

■ of tailors, - %
— — — of millers, - i

' - of brewers, - z

■ of innkeepers, - a

■ of bakers, - 1

■ of weavers', - 17
Number of examinableperrons of *

the Efiabliihed Church, 105
I of Seceders, - ao

Tlie proportion between

bachelors and

married men, is

as • - - 36t049

The proportion between ^e
annual births and the
population, is, as - I0t0334
— ^— between the annual
marriages and the po-
lation, as - - - 310334
Each marriage, at an average,

produces children, - 5

Annual average o£ births, to

of marriages, - 3

' of deaths, as nearly
as can be collected, - 4

Number of inhabited houfes

in the pariih, • - %>

Average number of perfom

in each houfe, - - - 4
The population, in 1 755, was 389
Betreale, - . ^ ^1^

Produ£iionff JigrUuIture^ \3c. — There is no map of the
parifh ; but, in as far as can be afcertained, there are in it
from 1700 to 1820 acres ^ which are laid-out nearlj as follows :

In pafturc, - 1135 In turnips and cabbage, 56

•— . fown grafs^ - no — peafe, - - 14

— oats, - - 293 — flax, - - 1^

— barlej, • - 81 — • meadow, « "45

— wheat,' - - 33

There

• The reafon, wny there i» fo much greater proportion of weavers in the
)>3riih, than of any other trade, is, the weaving manufacS^urcs, which are carried
on, io the neighbouring towns of Kirkcaldy and Link-town of ^bbotlhall. It is
from (hefe, that the greateft part of our weavers receive their employment; and
it is this, which draws in fo many of them to fettle in the village. A great
part of the women too, who refidc in the villagej are employed in fpinning
lint to the fame manufa<5lurie8. They fpin on the two-handed wheel, and aie
able to earn froixv 6d. to 8 d. per day, according to their particular alcrtncfs and
4cxtcr:ty.

11$ Statlfikal ^ccQfint

There are paftured in the pfuifb.
Sheep, • - 106 Cattle, - - 338

There are ufed in agricnlture,
Carjs, - - a4 Ploughs, ^ - ^i**

There is one thrcftiing machine lately erefted.^-The ftile of
farming is, in general, carried on after the new plan of huf-
bandrj, and is much improved of late years. This feems
chiefly owing to the introduftion of fown grafs, cabbage and
turnips* The former ferves to give reft and folidity to the
ibil, and prepares it for the produftion of future crops ; the
latter cleanfes and pulverifes it, and opens it to receive the
influences of the fun and air, the great ^uickeners apd fofter-
ers of vegetation, Th$ hay, thps ]:aifed, is fold, at an ave-
rage, about 4 4» per ftone, and brings a good profit to the
farmer* Cattle are brought into the houfe, fome time be-
tween Michaelmas and Martinmas, and fed on turnips for fe-
veral months, when they are fold tp the butcher, about the
end of winter, or beginning of fpring. This pradice, inde*
pendent of th^ advantage, which the ground receives, by pre-
paring it for the turpips and cabbage, togi^ther ij^ith the weed«-
ing and hoeing which art afterwards given it, and independ-
ent of what profit is tQ b(^ made of the cattle, which are fome-
times bought cheap, and fold dear, gives, moreover, a great
command of dung to enrich the reft of the land; a circum-
ftance of capital importance to the country farmer, who can-
not find manure to buy ; ^and which is, of itfelf, perhaps^
fuiBcient to recomipend the feeding of (»ttle, although few
pther advantages attended it.

The land is generally plowed with a horfes ; except where
it is wet or fteep, when 3 are ufed. But there is a divifion
of opinion as to the ufe of the new and the old plough ; fom;

preferring

$f Aucbtertouh 1 17

preferring the one, and fome the other* Tt is however likely^
that the new will foon become the moft prevalent.—- The pa->
jriih does more than fupply it&lf with provifions.

Churchy &c.— The Earl of Moray is patron ; and to that
noble lord the whol^ parilh belongs, excepting i farm, which
is the property of William Wemyfe, Efq. of Wemyfe. Nei-
thjcr of the heritprs refide in the parifli. The ft^)end is, 53
bolls 3 firlqts of meal; 2(5 bolls 3 firlots x peck at lippies of
bear ; and 150 merks in money. The manfe has been^latelj
repaired. The chnrch is old ; but it cannot be afcertained
yrhen'i^ was bpUt, The glebe is fmall*

Schools. -^Tlkt Ichoplmafter's falary is 100 marks. The
annual average number of fcholars is about 15. The fchool
wages are i s. per quarter for reading, and x s. 6 d. for writ-
ing and arithmetic The fchoolmafter is alfo felBon-clerk.
The appointments for this are 13s. 6d. Sterling of falary; with
the perquiiites on marriages, viz. 5 s, for feuers and tenants ;
^nd 33. 6 d. for fervants and houfeholders. The records of
the feiBon extend as far back as the year 1670.

It iji truly amazing, that fo ufeful and laborious a body of
men, as t}ie fcboolmallers of Scotland, fliould, in general, be
not only fo poorly appointed in falaries, but oppofed fo keen*
\j by the geptleqien of landed property, in their attempts to
' better their fituatipn. If it be chiefly owing to education,
that man is rendered fuperior to the animals around him, and
ono man to another ; if it be a principal mean of - advancing
his happinefs and beft interefls, both in this world, and that
which is to come ; if, moreover, in a political view, it opens
the mind to a fenfe of the advantages and bleffings, which men
4erive from order and good govemntent, in oppofition to
yiarchy and confofioq, and renders a nation le& apt to be

mifled

. I

tiS Statlfikal Account

mifled or convnlfed, by defigning and fcditious men y if the
■nk and tlie fall of kingdoms, have, in all ages, been chiefly
produced by moral caufes ; and if the morals, the opinions,
and the behaviour of men, be intimately conneded with the
inftruAions they receive, and the principles they imbibe,
during their early years ;•— if thefe things be fo, the inftruc«-
tioQ and education of youth ought certainly to be reckoned a
inatter of primary concern, in every well regulated date ;
more efpecially by thofe, who lit at the helm of government,
and are entrufled with the management of public affairs. But
how is it pofCble, that the purpofes of public indruflion
ibould be properly attained, in the prefent fituation of many
of our fchoohnafters, with refpe£l to falaries and appoint-
snents ? Is it in truth to be expefted^ that any perfon, who
haa been at the ezpence of an education, fufBcient to qualify
him for being a teacher and inftruftor of youth, ihould be-
take himfelf to that irkfome and laborious profef&on, when
the emoluments are fo poor, (in country pariflies efpecially,
vihtTt the fchool wages are fmall, and there is no opportunity
of raifing a large fchool), as to be inferior to the wages of a
day labourer, or a common fervant ? The time will certainly
oome, when the eyes of the nation will be opened to their
own heft interefts, as well as to thofe of their fellow creatures;
and this ufeful body of men will be placed in circumfiances,
more likely to enfure the great ends of education, and public
inftruAioo, both to individuals, and the community.

Poor^-^Thc number of ptfrfons receiving charity, at pre-
fent, ia 6 i and they are f upplied by the fefCon, as their fitua-
tion and necelBties feem to require. The annual average
amount of contributions at the church door, is 4 1. ; the
money received for the ufe of the mort-cloth, and fines for
irregular marriages, 3 !• j and there is a fund of about 80 U

lent ^ut at intereft.

MifceU

of AucbtertouL iig

Mifcellaneous Obfervations* — ^The parifli is fupplied with
coals from the neighbouring parilh of Auchterderran : The
diftance maj be from 2 to 3 miles. The price is 18 d. for as
many as 2 horfes can eafilj draw on a cart ; and the (ame
fum for driving them home* — There is x public road goes
through the parifh from £. to W. It is kept in repair by the
ilatute labour. Each plough of land pays to it annually los.
Sterling ; half a plough pays 5 s., and downward in the fame
proportion. Each hoafeholder, not on the poor's roll, pays
18 d. annually. — Both men and women fervants wages have
rifen greatly of late. Men fervants ufed to get 6L Sterling
for the year ; and women, al. los. : But a man fervant, now,
receives 8 1. ; and a woman 3 1., for the year. The caufe of
this fudden rife in the wages, is the manufadures, which
are carrying on in the fea coaft towns, together with the re«
pairing and making the roads through the country, which
employ a great number of hands, and render fervaiits fcarct
as well as dear. A day labourer's wages are 14 d. or 15 d.
fir day.

NUMBER

1 20 Statijlicat JccoOni

KtlMBER VIII.

PARISH OF CARLUKE.

(tiuniy and trejbyiery of Lanari^^ynod if Clafgow and ,

Air.)

By tli Rev. Mr. Jame^ ScOTi.

— — ' 'ilii' • •

Name^ Situation^ Extent^ lie,

THE name of ihb pariih is of uncertain dcffiiraticft!;
Some think that the letter i has fafeen funk in the firft
fyllablei for eafe of pronunciation ; and though it is noW
pronounced Kirlooiy that it was originally Kirklook ; parti->
cularljv asly in the immediate neighbourhood, Kirton, and
Kirftile, is put for Kirktoui and Kirkftile. In regard to the
laft part of the name, it was formerly written with a double
o^ and maj have been derived from its local fituation, as it
commands a very extenfive lodk^ or profpeft to the S. and
S. W. Others, preferring its prefent form (Carluke), make
it of Gaelic origin \ and are of opinion, that it denotes a place
of worlhip, dedicated to the faint of that name, and that it
properly is the Kirk of St. Luke*. The village of Carluke

* From the Hiftory of Sir Willi a u Wa ll acE| the ancieot Scotch war*
rior, it appears, that, about 500 yean ago, when the place of worihip flood Mi
the low ground, near the tiver Clyde, the i^ame of thU pariih was Kirk-foreJI^

of Carluke. til

Is ftbbut 5 tneafurcd ihiles from Lanark, 6n the road leadinj;
toCUaTgow ; about lo from, Hanilton, 19 from Glafgow, and
33 from Edinburgh. The pari(h itfelf id about 7 miles in
lengthi from the Clyde to its boundary on the eaft ; and fully
4t in breadth* It muft therefore contain upwards of 50
fquare miles. It may be obferved alfo, thajt the higher part
of the parifli of Garilairs, {Mojfplai)^ was originally in this
pM*i(h, and ftiU continues to pay ftipend to the minifter of
Garluke.

^urfare^ Soit^ t^c— This parifii rifes Conflderably above the
level of the fea, its higher grounds being nearly equal to the
Kirk of ShottS, while its lower grounds are little higher than
fhe Holms of Dalziell and Hamilton. It has, on this account*
a grtrat declivity, and, in the upper parts, is very much wafli-
ed by thb heavy rains from the S. and the S. W. From the
oppofite fide of the riVer Clyde, this parifh is feen to the
greateft advantage ) and the numerous orchards, natural
woods, and modem inclofures, which enrich its banks, afford
a plbafant profpeft of cultivation. As the propofed road
from Lanark to Hamilton, on the fouth bank of the river, is
feon to be carried into execution, thefe beauties and improve-
ments will be more acceffible to the eye of the public. Thd
Clyde, as far up as the Fall at Stonebyres, ufed formerly to

Vol- VIII. Q^ be

Or the Kirk of the Foreft. Accordingly, in tKe lower part of thiii|»iriih, tTiere H
Aiil a large diftriift much interfperfed with natural woods, called the Brai%Mod ;
and the firname Poreft abounds more among the people here, than in any other
parifh perhaps in Scotland. At that time, the kirk ftood in a foreft, near the
Clyde, on a piece of rifing ground, where the prefcnt farm houfe of Mauidf-
Isc^mains ftaads, and which, among the old people here, ftill retains the
aame of AUey Suads„

It need hardly be obferved, that the Scotch word Kirt, for a p%ce of wor-
ship, approaches nearer to the Original Greek, Ku^tes, oims, than the J^wgliAi word,
Churei, and ought perhaps to be OQide ufe of, at Uail in Scotland.

122 Statlfiical Account

be well ftocked with falmon ; but fiace the ereftion of a dam
St Bothwell, for the life of a cottoa mill^ few get up, but in
high floods. Some faint attempts have been made to get this
grievance redrefled \ bat as yet thejr have been iaeiedual.

As this parilh is not much encumbered with muirs, moffes
and mountains, it is moftlj under the plough* The foil^
however, is of very different qualities in the different regions
of the diftrift, On the river Clyde, which may be called
the firft and lowed region, the holm ground is of a free and
fertile nature, producing (as ,it is faid here), ** meal for
com *,*' and foroetimes more. But on the banks riiing be«
hind the holms, the ground is deep, and the foil a fine mel«
low cUiy, many yards deep ; and is therefore, in general, co«
vered with woods and orchards. As the ground rifes to the
eaft, in what may be called the fecond region, the foil is o£
a clay quality, with a hard bottom, requiring much labour
and culture to render it produftive ; but, when attended to,
it fufficiently repays the Xarmer's induAry. In the middle, or
third region, about the kirk, and the eftates of Kirton and
Whitehall, the crofts are naturally rich and loamy, though
not far from the till. But the more didant fields (the *' o$a»
Jields^* as they are here called), though plowed fometimes to keep
tjiem in proper padure, are generally diallow and poor, with
a bad bottom, and very unprodudive. In the fourth and
fifth regions, the foil, even in the out-fields, becomes more
deep and earthy; yet, being in fome degree mixed with mofs,
and lefs favourably fituated as to climate, it brings, at lad,
much leis meal into the granary, and lefs money into the poc-
ket of the farmer, who choofes to keep it under the
plough.

* That is to fay, a boll of oats, give? a boll of meat

of Carluke. 123

jf^ricMliunf Gra/si (^<r.— Of late yean, the ttanner of
fanning here is rtvj much changed to the hetten On th«
lower and more fertile grounds, the gentlemen farmers have^
in fome meafurci adopt^l the praftical {Hirt of Lord Kaimes's
fyftem, fo far as is fuited to their foil; and make alfo much
ufe of the inilruments of huftandrj prefcribed bjr him. In
this thej find their account : jet the inferior claffes of farm-
ers follow them but at a diftance ; for being unable to expend
fo much, thej onlj copy the more eafj and lefs expenfive
parts of the gentlemen's example. So far as they go, how*
«vef, thej reap great advantage: For after deriving much
benefit from a. prudent rotation of crops, thej are able to
laj down their ground in proper order, and to draw about
5 L JSterliag from each milk cow thej paftnce, and fometimea
mor% if the cow is (b large as to be of 6 L or 7 L value. la
the higher parts of the pariih, the chief objeft of cultivation
ought to be grals ^ and now, in general it is fo *• — ^Tbe milk

<l2 of

* Of the node of grafi Canning, in the fiEth and highell region of the parxfli,
the following plan is partaoilarly approved of. The farm is firft drained and in-
dofedy and, if poffible, good roads are made, even through the moft fwampy
parts of It. Soch places as hare already a good fward, are laid dry liy a Ji>eer
fi^Atr plough ; the m&es are cut, and the iield top drelTed wick £me or dung^
or both together. To bring the ground to a proper Ibrm, m certain qoantity is
farole np each year; plowing it oot towards the furrow, and tajdng a crop of
oats. Before winter fets in, all that is intended to be fallowed next fummer, is
ribbed; that is, every third furrow is turned op. This, it is thought, has the
double advantage, of opening 'an immenie number of drains, to difcharge the
water, and of ezpofing the ground to the air and fro(t During fummer, they
continue to throw out occafionally every 3d furrow, till the whole is plowed to
the leveL This is called rih'falUw* They, find, they can work it at all times,
and in all weathers (froft excepted), as the fallow is always dry. LafUy, they
break it acrofs the ribs, and draw it up twice into ftraight ridges, from ^ to S
feet broad, taking care,'that no water lodges in any part of the field. They
fow the ground, thus fallowed, with oats and graft in fpring ; and at any time
Aaxwg Uaama^ they fow» with graft alone, ft^b paru of the land at will ad-
I > mie

)[}4 Statiftkal Account

of their oowa, ipii^ed with peaCs-meal, they n& ia it«ding
their plough horfes^ which they find does very well, and is %
great faving of oats. In the fpring, they phat aa many
young trees, aa they can well ovei|^ke, to nd& iheher for
(heir high l^ada. The plan naeptumed in ^he note, has been fol-
Jawe(). oa a, very es^tenfive fairm, which was cukivatedat great
expence* bei|;ig only in the infancy of its improvementf The
iKOoe inethpd is, in fome ooeafuret adopted by ievera)
iarmer? in the neighbourhood* It muft, however^ be ob*
ferved, in regard to grafs farms in general in the higher
parts, of the parifli^ that, to this day, fome are managed
as they were centuries ago.^ and yet, that, from the ad*
ranee in the prices of cattle, calves^ butter, cheefe^ 8lc«
one of their Utile cows will bring them about 4L qf
4I. 10 s. per ann. In the high grounds, thepefore, it may
be fuppoied, that they have more profit by keeping their
grounds in grais, than by cultivating oats, &c. But though
their grain is of a bad quality, and feldom yields more than
two thirds in meal ; yet, in order to prevent rulhes, in the
wet foils, they are obliged to plough every 3d and 4th year :
And, where the foil is drier, they find it neceffary to plough
pvery jth or 6th year, to prevent it frpm cunning in^ healhy
In regard to. the rent of the parifli, it has nearly doubled
within thefe laft 30 years ; fome (ay more than doubled \
efpecially in thofe places, which are ipoft fayourably ^tuated|
in point of foil and climate.

Farm$

Wt qI U* Infcwiog.gfsfti, ihef U^ ^ag-oa fhe fiirftice, with Kme above tt;
iJipii h}gr and roll. When their dung it exhauftcd, they harrow in the lime
^ith the ictd. They cndcaTour to raife cabhagei^ carrota, turnips and pota-
tPei, for winter feeding ; yet they fay, $hey prefer the potatoes to the turnips,
after a ^r trial of both. Snch parts of their fallow, as they may be ^evented
Irotp fowing before the end of Auguft, by the wetneb of the feafon, ther
4urow into drills of. 4. feet, afidallov to remi^ till the eniiLing fpring.

'9^ CMkke. ^ 1:2^

Jfam/, lUnUy t&.---<The itrais kece, are aot ip. gfiBent
large The gDcatefi corn fianna are repcod at from 50}. to
X50 L 'StarUag. Utiles it bo m the \esBi hofan gooiiBd, or
iie^r ilie viUaga o( Car}i|ke ^wkere the people pay highen for
(canTenieapj)^ the fiaft kiocLof ccoft Jaod pa^^ fcooa a].' to xL aoa»
BtedJBg pec acre. The feoood fort, fcom igia. to 3^53* The
heft qut-field land (qolefo in more fhekeredfitoationa), fyota 3a.
to 6s. ; and the woift, &om a a* to 3 ^ The ttaneller, in
paflbigthrooghthis parifl^ can focoa bi>| an impecfeft ideav-of
the quality o£ the gcound in genetali aa the public roads hapi.
pen to he caisied thaougk the moft barren and uacottivatipd
folds; the ccolta of the .villagea of Cadoke and KHlcaigow
excepted. Here the lands are rich and loamj, and the c^op
generaHj plentiful and liucuriant. On an average, the land
may fell here, at from ^^ j^ to 3.0, j;e^rs purchafe. In the roll
of converfion for the dilute labour, the ni^niber of pjpu^t^^
gates,, as they are }\ere called^, anaounj; to about 68|^',bei^d^
cottagers, &c. . As to fervicts^ there ^^e^none jvojf ti^mi^q^jt^MPr
ing requifed of the 'tenants*

■'.•'. ■ ■ "^

Orchardsr^^tmt abounds ipooe ia this pari(b, thsto aa^

other upon the Clyde, or perhaps even in Scotland ^. ' ^e

orchards in this diitrid:, extend about, 5 miles, and are the

property of many different proprietors,^ They comprehend,

* The (olWiog lift contains the names of the principal apples and pears
growing here, though there are many other kinds of fhut trees, not dxiUnguiih-
cd by any particular w^n^s.

APPLES.

Marly ^or BmmttL^f^, Middle^ t Harvef. Zate^ or tHnter,

Junetine White Clufter Yorklhire Greening

Amber ' Queen of England Nonpareil

Chucket Egg White Ixdingtoo Green Ledington

J^fdf A^}f Bloudheart Grey I^diogtoa

ia6

Stat^ical Account

Sn ally upwatds of So acrei of land. Manj natural caofes
oaj be affigned, wbj this parifh ihould be fo remarkable for
its fruit ; particularly the followiug : ift^ The foil at the boU
torn of the banks, being a pure clay, feveral yards deep, ia
more favourable for fruit, than even the holm ground it*
felf : 2dlj^ The hohn being narrow, and the banks on each
£de nigh to each other, the heat is greatly increafed, by the
rays of the fun being reflefted from the oppofite banks: 3^,
The banks being fteep, and opening often into bofoms, afford
a ihelter by nature, which no art could ever produce. Hie
Iqfi advantage arifes, from the fortunate expofure to the S.
and S.W., the moll favourable that this country can poi&hly
enjoy.

Climate^

Early ^ or Stmmer Ap^la.

Lady's Lenunon
Smmner •tnwbcny
Millford

4^merican Pippin
Kiiibed ^

Dryly Pippm
Oa|:rion,&c«

Appist, (

MiddU^ •r Haroejt.

Dumbarton Pippin

Whiftleberry

Salmon

Common Codling

Licmmon Pippm

Hamilton Pippin

Moncrief

Marrow

Lady'i Fingtr, &c.

Winter Strawberry
Golden Pippin
Pcaitnain Apple
Hathomden
Naked Apple
Monfuch
Green Clttfter

■ . Calendar
Ely

Fnlwood
Golden Monday
Grafs Apple
Redftreak
Coal-honfe
Carfteiphan
Sheep-head
Carieol Gowrie
Porfe-mouth
Royal Codlin, and feveral

forts of Ru&ts.

PEARS.

tf Carluke,

127

CHmate^ Difeafes^ %3c. — ^The air here, is thought to be as
pure and lalubrioasy as in any part of Scotland. Hence few
epidemical diftempers have prevailed in this parifli, even when
raging in other places, owing perhaps to the S. and S. W.
ezpofures, and the quick circulation of air, which our fitua*
tion muft neceflarily occafion. There are many ioftanoes of
longevity in this pariih. There were 3 in the fame family,
(a brother and two fifters), all above 80 years of age, and
alive at the fame time. Two died lately at the age of 89, and
other 2, who had lived to the advanced period of ,99. A com-
plete year elapled, not long ago, without the death of a full
grown perfon. At prefent, there are feveral people living
here, all above the age of 80 *•

Sfrtngi^

PEARS.

Stmmtr.*

Harv^,

fTinter.

Fainnaid

Swan Egg

Miiirfowl Egg

Cr^wfotd

Cornock

Achaa

Jamct

BergamoC

Brier Bnfli

OreenTear of Phikie

Viccar

Winter Bergamot

SitIt Jr^|wty^)ii

Buih

Winter Warden

Lady's LemaioB

Laugh

Fear Iron

Kedder

Gray Oood<^ife

Pear Wilfon, &c.

Oold-knap

Bilhop

Minifter

LoDgovillc

JargoDcU

Pear Uric

Faitow Cow

Oray Honey

&ffiwi.&c

RAbhind. ace.

RoUund,£aV

* The Uiac Paffion, within thefe fiew years, has proved fatal to 6 or S in this
pariih. It is proper to mention, that injeftions have proved the mof% efficacious
remedy in this daforder. A young man lately, who had bten afflided with it
for iS days, and crcry dangerous fymptom had appeared, was entirely relieved
hy the Irc^ncm uie of them.

Some

1 2S £/atyikal Acc9U9ii

SpriMgi^ MMeralff HiHs^ %ic. — ^There is no river 6f
ftreftm» of ady bonfidtrable fize» die Clyde oiiijr except*
ed, dioag the banks of which the (larifli lies for 4 or 5
Qkifes* There are a few mineral fpHngs, which are
thought to be ferriceaUe ill curing the fctirvy^ fiomiichic
OooiplaiiitSy &c. Calcined metals, and petrified vegetables,
^st found in different quarters ; but there are no remark**
•Ue Tok^c appearances. — «Coal abounds every where.
In genfcrai^ however, the Amta which have been as yet dif*
covered* are thin, not exceeding 26 or 30 inches. In one
^liarter of the parish, indeed, modiy belonging to the Eadof
Hyodford, there is one vein, or rather feveral rich veins,
from 7 to 10 feet deep. Free«ftone, lime and iron-ftone, are
foaM, almoft in every part of it. — There is no eminence
meriting the name of mountain. There are, however, feve^^
xal little hills, called laws^ which have had, or ftill have

cairns

Some difeafes may be ftated, as arifing from fancy, or a difordered imftgiiMJ
Uoa merely. An old man died here fome ^me a^o, who had, for upwards of
ao year^ believed himfelf to be tormented by a magician. ** This mxgictan,'*
at he defcribed it, " by meant of a mathematical head refembllng fait, opened h!f
** ikttll every night, anddtopt into hit brain red hot needles, which produced the
" mod painfol and excruciating tormentt.'* Thoogh naturally adive and lafao-
rioot, thit fancy at laft difabled him for work, in every other rcfpc A, he was
perfcAIy reafonable, and appeared to have the free exercifc of hit underftand-
ing.— There it a woman alive here at prefent, who hts, for more than 30 years,
been occafionally poflefled with a dumb fpirit. When this fpirit of dvmbneft, in«
deed, leaves her, ihe makct ample amendi for her long iilence. But' file it ge^
nerally feized with it again in a year or two. ^he tnen appears fo have f of got
the ufe of fpeech ; and, for years, her teeth are fo fixed together, that it it with
the utmoft difficulty ihe can receive the ncceifariet of life.-^A whimfical, but
piwi old man, died lately, who, fnim hit extreme humility, and miftakm refped;
to the doArines of grace^ refolved to a. andon the praifHc; of good workt for
Jix nvttks ; left (at he faid) he (houkl be tempted to boaft of them, or to reft osc
them alone, to the difiionour of his Mafter, and as if meriting at the hand of
God. Of his having auhered to his rcfolution, a female domeftic gave to the
world, about 9 n^omhs after, a/r^^fnaai and Utihv proof.

(f Carluke 129

cairns of ftones upon them, and bear marks of great anti-
quity. In the great cairn of Mauldflie Law, there was
lately found an urn, of a roand, or rather oval form, in
which had been depofited the bones of a human being. In
digging nigh the top of the hill, great quantities of a(hes and
burnt materials were found. Qn the S.W. corner of the^hill,
there is a place which iiili retains the name of Gallowlie.
There, the gallows flood, on which, during the reign of the
feudal fyftecn, the ancient barons were wont to execute of-
fenders. The prifon, with a dark fubterraneons vault under
it, ftood near the top of the hill. Of thefe Lanjis as they are
called* there are no lefs than 6 in this parifb : thofe of
MauldJlUy Carluke J KilicaigovAj Garhy^ King^s and Cock Laws.
From the King^s Law, on the N. £. corner of the parifh, a
part of 13 or 14 ihires may be feen, when the atmofphere is
favourable. On Mauldflie Law, there were more cairns than
one. In the greater part of thofe above mentioned, human
bones have been found by the farmers, in urns of different
fizes. %

Villages* — There are feveral villages ; but all of them on the
decline, except Bradwood and Carluke. The caufes of this,
in -the more remote villages, appear to be, the conCtant drain
to the manufa&uring towns of Glafgow, Faifley, &c. ; the
number of hands employed in the coal, iron, and cotton works
in the neighbourhood, and the inclination which many farm-
ers, in the decline of life, now have, to lay out what money
they may have faved, on building houfes adjoining to the public
roads, or in fuch villages as thefe roads run through, where
fomething may be eafily gained,' and their money better fe-
cured, than in the hands of their brother farmers, of whom
many, of late, have failed. There are indeed many &rm-
hottfes buik lately in this parifh, on new improvements. But

V0L.VIIL R the

1 30 Statijilcal Account

the village of Carluke increafes more rapidly than any othen
From coDfifling, about 24 years ago^ of 4 or 5 houfes, with
Httle trade, it is now advanced to a large and decent village ;
fo that it finds employment for a furgeon, a baker, a vintner,
and feveral grocers. There are alfo in it, butchers^ weavers,
ftocking-makers, mafons, tailors, wrights, inn-keepers, road-
makers, haberda(bers, and coopers ; and even fomc milliners
and mantua-makers, in the town, or near to it. A new village,
it is faid, is foon to be built, or feued out, on the ro^d lead-
ing to Killcaigew, under the patronage of the MeiTrs. Glens ;
and a cotton work to be erefted nigh it, to be driven by a
Deam engine.

Heritors and Population. — ^There are, in all, about 60 he-
ritors of this parifli, of whom 40 pay ftipend. The Earl of
Hyndford, the principal heritor,, has his feat here ; and, in
May 1792, laid the foundation of his new caftle^ at Mauldf-
lie. The number of inhabitants, though upon the increafe,
is not fo great as might have been expeded. The reafons al'
ready afiigned, in a great degree, account for it. In 1755,
the whole inhabitants of the parifli were ftatcd by Dr. Web-
fter at 1459. They amounted, about 25 years ago, to 1592 :
and in Aucufl 1792, the number was 1730. From the pa-
rifli regiller (which perhaps is not very accurately kept), it
would appear, that the annual average of births, marriages
and burials, for 10 years paft, is as follows .• births, 40 ; mar-
riages, 18 ; burials, 28. The proportion between males aod
females, for the fame length of time, appears to be, nearly,
as XI to 10^

Ecclefiaftical State^ &c. — There is only one place of public
worfliip in this pariih, and one eftabliflied minifter. The

kirk
3

t)f Carluke. 131

IdA is a very old one, 90 feet long. There arc flill to be feen
within its walls, feveral veftiges of the Roman Catholic wor-
ihip, viz. The fount, veftrj, &c. with a chancel and choir to
the eaft ; all which ihew, that it mufl have been built before
the Reformation. There are here, neither Jews, Papifts, nor
Epifcopalians. The manfe was built about the beginning of
this century i was repaired, and declared fuilicient to the
prefent incumbent, about 29 years ago ; but another repair
was found neceflary very lately.

Kirk Zands^ Religious Houfes^ \3c. — In this parifh, there ar^
fome kirk lands that pay no Aipend, but have been burdened
with grafs to the minifter, viz. the two farms of Kirton and
Kirftile* On the S. £. near the houfe of Lee, there is a re*
ligious houfe, or hermitage, of great antiquity, which is called
St, O/waliTs Chapel ; and nigh to it there is a fmall field, called
Friar* s Croft^ which fufficlently indicates its origin. On the W.
comer of the pa>i(b ftood another Popifli chapel, of which there
is now no veftigr. The place where it flood, ftill retains the
name of Chapel Yard\ and the remains of it, it is faid, were
dug up by the prefent proprietor. Both thefe chapel yards,
and the lands adjacent, pay ftipend to the minifter, in com-
mon with the reft of the pariifa. So alfo do the Hofpital lands
of Eafter, Wefter and Middle Seats (called Hofpital Shields^
Thefe Hofpital lands pay annually to the family of Lee the
fum of 60 merks (20 merks each), which tha{ family is obliged
by charter to repay annually, along with 20 merks from St.
Leonard's Lands, Lanark, to the poor of the pariihes of Car-
-luke and Lanark. The reddendo t>f each charter was lately
called for, and now recorded in the parifh regifter here •.

R 2 Schools

* When the huts in the higher grounds were only yell Ihields (or ihields for
^dd and young cattle) , with huts for the rcfidcnce of fuch as attended the;n in

132 Statiftical Account

Schools and Poor,-— A new fchool houfe wafe built here very
lately, and a falary of 200 oaeiks Scotch fettled on the fchool-

mailer,

the fummer fcafon, the original farm houfes on the Clyde were called MauUf
and feem to have hceo the manfion houfes (as in the North Highlands to this
day), where the principal part of the family reilded throughout the year. Such
were the Mains of Mauldllie, Milton, Waygatefliaw, firadwood and Heads :
mil comprehending, at a former period, lands running up into the higher part
of the parifh — ^There are, in this parilh, 3 places alfo called Halb, which merit
fome attention. Hail- Bar, Hall-Craig , and Hail-Hii/. Hall-Bar, in the fouth
of the pari(h, is an ancient fquare tower, of a venerable appearance, with a bat-
tlement and garden on the top. There is a concealed flair leading up to the bat-
tlement and garden. It is built upon a rock, in a pidurefque, romantic,
and very inacceflible iltuation. It is evident, from its form and (Ituation, it muft
at fome period have been a place of ftrength ; but the traditions coivcerning k
are very uncertain. Though the lands of Bradwood, around it, have been feu«
ed out by the families of Lauderdale and Carnwath, they have cbofen to retain
this tower and fmall garden, with free " ifli and entry," which they only rent at
about 10 8. Sterl. per annum ; from which it is probable they confidered it as a
• v^uable piece of antiquity. Whether it has ever belonged to the Lockharts of
Bar, in Ayrlhire, is not known. — Hall-Craig is a modern houfe at prefent; but
on the promontory of the rock on which it Hands, it appears, that there was
formerly a place of flrength, from which it has got its name. A part of the
old hall is yet viflble on the very pinnacle of the rock. The vcft:ges of fome
walls and valilrs have been difcovercd within the garden j and latcl/ there was
dug up, when drefling -the ground, a caufeway, leading in to the point of the
promontory ,^-Hall-Hill is adjacent to the Earl of Hyndford*8 new gardens,
near to the ilte of the Old Abbey, referred to in the beginning of this account.
As this hill (lands juft at the entrance to the holm, or rather on the holm itfelf,
it may, from this circumftance, more probably have derived its name, than from
its vicinity to the old hall of Mauldflie, which flood more than aoo yards to
to the N. W, in a Ut, or (hcltered iltuation, beyond the rivulet. Perhaps it
jhould be called Haugh-iiill ; it being a fingular thing for a hill to be in a
haugh or holm. The bafe of this little green mount is evidently artificial, and
its cgntents, except a fmall part on the wefl, a rich, black earth from top to
bottom. Many human bones have been difcovered in it. A man digging into
the hill lately, on the fouth fide, flnick upon a large quantity, as if part of a
chamcl houfe. The incumbeat^ when walking upon it, found fcreral human

bonei

of Carluke. 133

mdfter. Though the fees were lately increafed, yet they ate
fiill fach ad not to bear hard upon the poor, and at the fame

tim^

bones, thrown up lately by planting young trees upon it. Having ma<i« a pit
on the top, to the depth of 6 feet, even there, many bones were difcovered; and
the foil itfelf, at that depth, was much; blacker than a^ny croft in the parifh.
That he might fatisfy himfcif with regard to the bones being human, he (hewed
them to feveral medical gentlemen, who all aflured him that they were. It it
therefore prefumable, that this hill was the family tumulas, v.' here the MlUt o£
Mauldilie were buried ; and for that reafon might have been originally called
Haugb-KUl, in oppoiicion to hai^ows-JCill (or ffadx9Vf4'KiU), which lies in the
highefi part of the parifli : XUI, in Gaelic, Cgnifying a tomb. '^This circum*
ilance alone, however, can fcarcely account for fuch a vaft quantity of bones, and
lich black earth, in one tumulus. It is therefore probable, as thia little hill is fo
nigh the fite of the old Abbey, that, about 3 or 4 centuries ago, when the parifli
increafed fo as to be inhabited towards the Shields, and when the kirk was found
necefifary to be ere^ed at Carluke, as more convenient for the whole inhabitants;
that at that time, this tumulus would be made the repnfitory of the bones and
confecrated earth that would be found in the Abbey-Steads at removing the
kirk, and turning the facred ground into Au:h pafture, or aiabk ground, as the
fpiht of thefe fuperfiitious times would permit. There are 3 circumftanccsthat
feem to favour this conjedure. J^irft, The ground where the Abbey ftood, is
now a clay of as pure a quality, and white colour, as the adjoining fields ; which,
without fome excavation, can fcarcely be fuppofcd, after being a burial place for
perhaps near 1 000 years. Scemdly, The whole earth on the mount, appears of
a blacker and much richer quality than any to be found (but in kirk-yards),
within many miles of it, even blacker and richer than the fatteft earth in the
oldeft burying ground in Carluke kirk-yard; this lafl having been only employ-
ed as burying ground for 3 or 4 centuries dt moil. lafliy, It does not appear,
that the family of Mauldllie had taken up any btrying ground at the kirk of
Carluke till about the end of laft century, when their prefcnt aifle was built.
From this it ts probabfe, that the family, before that time, muft have buried
fomewhere elfe than at Carluke. It doetf not appear, that they had buried on
the Abbey Steads, as there is no tradition, or vifibfe veftige of it. It is there-
fore probable, that they buried their dead on the top of the tumulus, where the
whole facred earth of the Abbey Steads had been coUeded. Accordingly, the
fummit was flattened, and fo continues to this day. Stones have tumbled from
it, which appear to have been uiedj cither in a tomb, or Ibme building of decent
orchiteAure.

134 ' Stati/iical Account

lime afford good encouragement for the labours of the teach-
er *• The emolument, on the whole, maj be from 30 1* to
35 L Sterling per annum.

As this parifli abounds with coal, and, in the higher parts,
alfo, with peat and turf, it is more burdened with poor than
fome others. Upon an average, there are no le(s than 30 con-
ftandy upon the poors lift ; and the amount of the annual
diftribution, is, I believe, about 80 1. Sterling. Tbb fum is
raifed, partly from die intereft of money mortified for that
purpofe, and pardj from celleftions' at the kirk. But what
further maj be required, to fatisfy the neceffary annual de-
mand, is, according to ad of parliament, appointed by the
heritors to be levied fron^ the heritors and houfeholders ;
each of thefe claiTes being burdened with one half of it. Such
heritors, however, as refide within the parifh, beiides paying
as heritors, pay alfo as houfeholders, as they occupy houfes
and farms, which otherwife being rented to tenants, would
have borne their proportion of the houfeholders half in the
affelTment. But, in order to afTefs properly, and to be judge
of the neceffary demand for the time, the heritors meet, ac-
* /cording to a& of parliament, on the firft Tuefdays in Febru-
lyry and Auguft, to determine on the£e matters f •

RoadSf

* The fchoolmafter^s feet, per quarter, are as follows :

Engliih, -.--,- Uo I 6
Common rules of arithmetic, • • - o ft o
Higher parts of arithmetic, - - - ^ e » 6
JLatin, * - -•- - - -o»6
IFor Engliih, from the poor, * • o x o

f See Lord Kames*s Abridgement. If a female, who is ahle to fpin, but Is
lazy, is, after giving an inventory and difpofition, put upon the poor s lift, the
heritors give her only in proportion to whatfhe earns; a fourth, a third, or half
perhaps, according as Ihe appears to need. Before, however, (he can receive
this, ihe muft produce the yam merchant's attcftatioA of what Iht ^ins.

of Carluke. , i jj;

Raadsf ^r.-^Through this parifli there is one great tuni'^
pike roady leading from Glafgow to Peebles, &lc. It is well
made, and has on it feyeral toll-bars, though none in this diC-
trift* At the village of Carluke, a branch goes off to Lanark,
made by the ftatute labour. Since the (latute work was con-
verted into money, the parifli roads are, in every refpeft, im-
proved ; fo that the communication is now more eafy, and
the farmers property, adjoining to the roads, fecured from
damage*.

* with re£pc£t to articles of proyiiloo» their prices of Ute haTc Tcry much
advanced ; fo that, where the farmer has many commodities to difpofe of, he
can afford to live eafy, pay a reafonable rent to the proprietor, and even fpend
fomething extraordinary himfelf. Fowls, eggs, butter, veal, lamb and muttMi,
all fell at very high prices. Within thefe laft %o years, they are dovbled ;
which is feverely felt by annuitants of every defcription. Beef and mutton, in
the markets here, are equal in quality to any in Edinburgh or Glafgow ; and
they fell nearly at the fame rate. Horfes and cows have alTo doubled thdr price
within thefe 20 or 30 years. Amidft thefe revolutions, the poor farmer of a
few acres, at 10 1. or so 1. rent, who can with difficulty fupport his femily on the
produce of his ixnall farm, fuffers the moft. He has nothing to fell, perhaps
fomething to purchafe. The cottagers and day-labourers, when compared with
him, are affluent and comfortable. It is natural to inquire, whence this increafc
of price in every article of provifion (grain alone excepted) can arife ? Is it
that the number of confumers have multiplied in an equal proportion to thii
advance? — or that the modem modes of farming have diminlihed, rather than
incrcafed the quantity produced f — No : the increafe of the confumers, upon the
whole, uby no means in pr.oportion to this advance of price, as we fee from the
ftatiAical accounts already publiihed ; and we know from fa^, that many farms
bring more than double in the market, and none lefs, than they ufed formerly
to do. Whence then does it proceed ? Among the many other caufes to which
this may be afcribed, perhaps the principal one is, the great increafe «f banks
in Scotland and England, and the enormous quantity of paper which they cir-
culate, which finks the value of money, infomuch, that in purchailng many of
the neceffaries of life, a fum of money will not go half fo far as it ufed to do.
' And though the different kinds of grain are more ftable and fixed in their prices
' than other things, this is evidently owing to the com laws with refpe^ to im-
portation, of which the farmers complaia fo loudly.

136 Statl/ikal Account

Mitts^ t^f.— In this, and the whole higher parts of Clydef-
'dale, there are no mills for grinding wheat, which is a great
difadvantage. In this parifli, however, there are 5 common
corn mi)ls. The firft, and probablj the only corn mills in this
country for fome time, were thofe of Mauldflie, which per-
haps may have derived its name from fwo/o, to grind. The
mills of Mauldflie appear to have comprehended, at firft, what
is now called Milton, and alfo 3 or 4 mills on the lower part
of Carluke Burn. At that time, there was a wooden bridge
(the veftiges of which are yet vifible), fitted up in the rocks
at Milton, to make the communication to thefe mills eafier
from the fuuth and weft on the oppofite fide of the Clyde :
and farmers on the caft, at the diftancc of about 7 miles,
were bound, by charters, to grind at the mills of Mauldflie.
It appears alfo, that, about 500 years ago. King Robert Bruce
was proprietor of thefe mills ; for it is recorded, that he grant-
ed 10 merks Sterling, out of his mills of IVfaldflay (fo it was
then written), for the purpofe of keeping a lamp perpetually
burning upon the tomb of St. Machute at Lefmahago*. There
was lately found, near the foot of the pariih, the remains of a
hand-mill, which liadbeen ufed for grinding before the period
of water mills. It is a very large whin, or muir, ftone, fo
fcooped into the form of a large bafon, as to receive a leilcr
ilone correfponding to it, with a handle.

Antiquities^ Eminent Men^ &c. — Some Scotch coins, as an-
cient as Alexander I. have been found in this parifli, both at
Chapel- Yard, and St. Ofwald's Chapel. From S. £. to N.W.
runs the Roman Road, called here Waiting's Street^ (perhaps
a corruption of Vitellius^s Street^. In fome places, efpecially

at Killcaigow-Law, it is ftill fo vifible, that the manner of

its

• Sec Spotifwood.

of Catluke. 137

its formation can eafily be afcertained. The Romans appear
to have placed broad ftones in the bottom of the road, where
the ground was foft, and broke others very fmall, with which
they covered him. Roman coins at Bumhoufe and Caftle-hill
were found in the diredlion of this road, and a deicription of
them was lately given in the Scots Magazine. — Robert Cock-
burn, A. M. aged 89, who wrote many trafts in favour of
Chriflianity, died, and was buried here a few years ago. This
parifli gave birth to Major General William Roy, whofe cha-
rafter and abilities as a maihematician. Sec. are well known *•
Here alfo were bom, the Reverend Dr. Robert Dick, late mi«
nifler of Edinburgh, and the Reverend Mr. James Roy of
Freftonpans ; both very eminent in their profelGon.

Mifcellaneotu Obferoations. — Two countrymen In this parifli,
havt long employed their ingenuity in endeavouring to difpover
Ha^ptrpetuum mohUe \ but, like all others who have embarked
in the fame caufe, their attempts have as yet been unfuccefsful,
-—Some time ago, a woman in this pariih brought her huf-
band fix children at two fuccefiive births. The three 6rft are
alive, and doing well.— -»A few years ago, a young woman was
married to an old man of 80, who, after living for fome
time with his fpoufe, gradually declined and died. The re-
lations began to divide his little eilate among them, in con-
formity to the wiH of the deceafed ; when, to their great fur-
prife, the difcon/olate widow difcovered fyroptoms of fruit-
fulnefs, and, precifely 8 months and 16 days after the old man's
deatk, gave to the world a fine fprightly youth, who now in-
herits the whole property of the deceafed. — ^Though the peo-
ple here, are, in general, of the ordinary fize, yet an old man
died fome time ago, of the age of 90, who was about 7 feet

Vol, VIII. S in

* See Scou Magazloe for July X 790.

138 Statifiical Account

in height; and there arc atprefent fomealive^ 6 feet and up.

wards In the year 17S9, the orchards in this pariih produced

fuch a plentiful crop> as to yield in all, for fruit, above 3 00 J.
Sterling, befides about 200I. for the under growth.--X)n March
1 2th 1782, the river Clyde rofe fo high ^being, in the moru
confined places, about 4 feet higher than ever known), that
feveral mills on the other fide were fwept away, and the ground
on this fide much damaged, by being cut with the ftreami
and covered ^ith gravel. In the fame year, and alfo in
1^83, the people in this pariih, iike many others, were in
vtrj great want of grain, occafioned by the general failnre of
the crops. What they had from their farms, was much da-
maged, efpecially on the higher grounds ; but, by occafional
fupplies of peafe from Leith, and the kind attention and libe-
ral contributions of the more opulent heritors, the poor here
were fo well provided for, that none of them fuffered froo^
1¥ant.

Advantages and Bifadvantages. — ^The principal diCidvan*
tages, under which this pariih labours, appear to be the fol?
lowing: — ^Though the ground ftands much in need of dung,
and fome of it cannot be made very produdive by lime alone,
yet, by lying at a diftance from large towns, that fort of ma-
nure cannot eafily be procured, but in the fmall quantities
which the farmers themfelves produoe.-^This being a dayej
pountry, in fome places, during the drought of fummer, the
cattle are at a lofs for want of water, and are thereby liable
to certain difeafes, well known to the farmer, which, in the
woody part of the country, are particularly prevalent— —As
there is a continual drain from the pariih, both of young men
and women, to the neighbouring cotton millj, iron works, &c^
the farmer is often at a lofs for labourers ; and fervants wages
are thereby rendered much higher, than the mailer can well

afford

tf Carluke. I39

Afford at prdcnt, being, from 61. to 10 1. per antintn for a
man ; and, from 3 1. to 4 1. for a woman. A jouqg and vi-
gorous day-labourer, can, with difficulty, be procured ; and
(vtAuals excluded), he receives, from 14 d. to 15 d. a dar,
during the fummer; fo that the farmers now begin to perceive^
that it is their iotereft to encourage cottagers, and to fubmit
to the rifk of being thereby burdeded with a heavier poor's
rate. ladced, as we are in this pariAi attentive to the poor,
and well fupplied with fuel, we have generally many labour-
ers reforting here in the decline of life ; but from them no
labour of importance can be expeded, for any confiderable
time; and, unlefs we are watchful, in terms of law, they may
foon become a burden upon the pari fh— From the quick de-
clivity of this pariih, ibe ground is apt to be waihed down
much fafter b{y the rains, than in other places ; fo that the ma«
iiure kid upon it, is focfnet esthaufted ) and the ditches, by
coUefling a larger body of water. Hand in need of conliant
tepair, and in fome fteep fituations, can Scarcely be at all
kept up. — In the clayey part of the dtftrift, the materials
with which the ronds are made, partaking of the nature of
the foil, and being of a foft quality, the roads themfelves
fiand in need of conftant attention and expence. — Being ex«
pofed to the high winds in barvefi, the crop, when ripened^
is in danger^ and therefore^ in prudence, it muft be cut dowi^
foonet than we would otberwife choofe to do. In the lowcc
part of the parilh, however, they are expofed, during the
hay and com harveft, to great incontenietices in wet feafonSj
from the want of a free circulation of air.

But though the parilh labours under thefe difadvantages, jtt
there are alfo circumfiances in its favour, which tend to coun-
terbalance them. Being at a moderate diftance from Glafgow,
and within a few miles of 2 iron works, and 3 cotton mills,
eKMBOttdities of all kinds are fold to good advantage.— -Though

S a there!

140 Statiflical Account

there is a fcarcity of dung here, yet we are well fupplied
with coal and lime, and in fome places with mofs and turf
for compoft. And the land is of fuch a quality, that it does
not of itfclf (like a weak or fandj foil), foon cxhauft what
is imparted to it* — ^I'hcugh we are fo nigh public works as to
infure the fale of every commodity, we are feparated at fuch
a diftance from them, as to be lefs in danger of having the
younger people corrupted by them, in their morals and prin-
ciples*.

Chara8er, — ^The charafter of the people, in general, is
very refpe&able ; ^nd it is much to their hononr, that, after

living

* The utility of the foUowmg regulations has been fenlibly felt by the inha-
bitants here. x. Difputes having often arifen with regard to particular burying
grounds, a plan of the whole kirk-yard was lately formed (in which different
layers, after a public advertifement, Were accurately afcertained,by marking and
dcfcribing every man*s property, in regular order, upon it, with his name and
number, beginning at a certain comer of the kirk-yard), which was lodged, with
a correfponding catalogue, in the hands of the piriih«clerk, to which every perfon
may now have recourfe, when occalion requires. 2. The inconvenience and loft
by a^s of theft, &c. which many fuilain by encouraging the vagrant poor o£
other parishes, we have endeavoured to prevent here, not only by making liberal
provifion for the poor of tins parifli, and reftraining them from fh-oUing, under
the penalty of a forfeiture of their allowance ; but alfo by following but ftrid-
ly the rule of St. Paul, *' If any would not work, neither fhould ha eat.*'
(2 TbeJJ', iii. xo.) and the laws of our country with refpedt to idle vagrants.
{See Lor J Kaimet't Abridgement), 3. Many orchards upon the Clyde having of
late been much injured, by fome malicious per'fons, the gentlemen here have con-
tributed liberally towards the eftablifliment of a fund, for profecuting according *
to law, and bringing to defervcd puniAment, fuch atrocious offenders in future ;
and it is found to have a very good tStSt, 4. As . in many places, children at
fchool fuffcr much, even under the care and attention of the moft able and faith-
ful teachers, from the fcholars being more numerous than any one man can pof-
iibly do juftice to, the heritors of this parifli have refolved to obviate, in fome
^fgree, this inconvenien e by the following provifion : Should the number of
fcholars at any time amount to more than 50, the parifli fchoolmafter is •bliged
to employ an afliftant for the bjncfit of bis lower claffes. This afliftant he gc-
aera^lly choofes from among the more advaaced of his fcholars.

tf Carluke. 141

living among them for about 30 jears, the prefent incumbent
can faj with truths that thej are in general of good nader-
ftandings, moderate in their views, and of humane difpofi*
tions. Among thofe who attend the Eftablifhed Church, there
is fcarce an inftance, either of wild enthufiafmi or of a per**
fecuting and cruel fpirit. Profanitj, drunkennefs, fwearing,
diihonefty, &c. are hj no means prevalent. The general body
of the people, are regular in their attendance on public wor-
fliip, fober and virtuous. No child murder has been known
to be committed here in the memory of man. . The difcipline
of the church has been always exercifed with mildnefs. In
ordinary cafes, only one appearance is now required, and
antenuptial fornication difmifTed with a feffional rebuke, like a
private marriage ; fo that none are hardened by frequent ap-
pearances ; and marriage is encouraged in all. To conclude ^
in fome parts of this pari(h, much benefit is derived from the
great improvement which has been lately made, by gentlemen
of tafie and public fpirit, in the houfes of their tenants.—
By being built neat and commodious, well aired, and properly
lighted, they are found to cheriih, among thofe who inhabit
them, a fpirit of cleanlinefs and cheerfulnefs« and to contri-
bute materially to their health. In fuch places accordinglyi^
the people can live with more comfort and happinefs than for-
merly ; they affociate more frequently together ; they culti-
vate their farms more vigoroufly ; they procure better
prices fpr their commodities ; and, being thus enabled to drefs
more decently, and to make a better appearance on public 9C-
cafions, they have thence an additional inducement, to attend
with more regularity, the important ordinances of religion.

NUMBER

t4i Statijitcal Aecouht

NUMBER IX.

PARISH OF CANISBAY.

(County of Caitbne/s.')

By the Rev. Johh MoRisoir, D. D.

Origin of the Name*

ITis not known that the parifli ever had anj other name, thad
what it now bears* Canifbaj has been fuppofed by tom6
to have been originallj written Canonfbay ; others conjee*
ture it to have fome connedion with the Latin vocable Cants.
It is, however, more probable, that Canute^s-Baj was its
firft appellation, in honour of the arrival of fomo Norwe-
gian chief of the name of Canute. There is indeed no ac-
count of the defcent of fuch a chief upon the coaft, nor is therei
any bay in the parilh now denominated Canifbay. But as all
the places of the lead note in the pari(h, are clearly of Nor^
wegian derivation, it cannot be fuppofed, that the name o£
the di&rift itfelf (hould be an exception.

Situation and Extenf. — The pariih of Canifbay being tihe
mod northern land in the ifland of Great Britain, is (Ituated
in the latitude of 58^ 43' N., about a? of W. longitude from

Xiondo04

tf Camjbay. 14^

London. The figure of the parifli is remarkable for its
regularity, exhibiting to the eje the exaft quadrant o( t
circle, the arch of iwhich divides it from the neighbouring
pariihes towards the land, lind the two 'containing fides from
the feas that waih its coafts ; Dungifbay Head is in the yer-
tix of this quadrant, from which the coaft firetches in %
ftraight diredion due S and due W« till it meets with Wick
parifh on one hand, and Dunnet on the other* Each of thefo
lines maj be reckoned 8 Englilh miles in extent. The
whole furface of the parifli may be computed to occupy
ghout 50 fquare miles or upwards.

Soil^ Surface^ be. — Canifbay is rather a level than a hilly
diflrift. The Warth Hill is of confiderable height and mag-
nitude, and is the only one in the pari(h deferving the name«
The Loch of Mey is*about 2 Scotch miles in circumference.
There is no river, and only a few rivulets (the chief of which
is the Bum of Frefwick), in the whole pari(h. A fingle ftone
(fea-rock excepted) of any confiderable magnitude, is no where
to be feen above the furface of the earth. There are mineral
and freih water fprings in abundance. The former are all of
the chalybeate kind. There is one of excellent quality near
the old cafile of Frtfwick. Heath in general prevails,
where agriculture has not reached. There are, however, con-
fiderable trads of freen pailure land, in different diilrifis of
the parifli, which require only the advantages of cultivation
to be made produdive. A light black loam, with an inter-
mixture of mofs, is, where cultivation prevails, the general
charader of the foil. TThe reft is entirely mois, reaching, in
fome places dovim to the fea brink, and yielding peats in the
mateft abundance, and of as good quality as any in the

kingdom.

144 Statijlical Account

kingdom. The lands about Mej, belonging to the' Earl of
Caithnels, have an intermixture of clay.

C7iina/^.«— The climate is diftinguiOied bj variable,
rather than tempefiuous weather. Remote from the
mountains, which attrad moifture and occafion rain, fair wea-
ther is not unufual. The winters are generally mild and
open, frofts are feldom intenfe, or of long continuance.
The fnow never thickens to anj depth, and the coaft
28 fcarcely fprinkled by it, while in more inland pariflies it
lies to a confiderable depth. The level fituation of the parifii,
and the fea furrounding it on every fide but one, may be re.
garded as the caufes of this temperature. The fummers in
Caniibay, for the fame reafon, are temperately cool ; and high
winds are, in general, more prevalent than heavy rains. The
Aurora Borealis begins to exhibit itfelf about the middle
of harvefl. In no part of Britain is it to be feen tQ
more advantage. At times^ from the fliifting brilliancy of its
vivid comifcations, the whole heavens feem to be in mo-
tion : at other times a fettled bloody tinge prevails over all
the (ky ; . and on thefe occafions, the whole phenomenon ap-
pears truly awful and magnifieent. All its appearances feem
to prove that it is the efied of eleftricity.

Longevity and Di/ea/es. ^^Thtie'2rt fewdiftridts where more
good health is enjoyed than in Canifbay. The inhabitants in
general live to a good old age. There are feveral at prefent in tlie
pariih betwixt 90 and 100. Many die at an advanced age, with-
out the recolleftion of a day's illnefs in the courfe of their
lives. The mod prevalent illneCTes among the people, are
thofe arifing from obftrufted perfpiration, owing to the va-
riablenefs of the weather, and perhaps ilili more, to the raw
and unwholefome vapours transfufed into the atmofphere they
breathci from the extenfive tracts of fen, muir and mots in

their

if Cdnijhap 14 j

ihetr iiciiuty, while tolds, coughs, and rhdiinatilhii are not
iinfrequenL Fevers prevail as little hete^. perhaps^ as 10 any
corner of the worid* Inoculation Is not jet in general prac-
tice ; but though few efcape the fmall pox, the difeafe is fel«
dom mottal^ Indeed, moft other difeafes are eztremeijr rare^
I'ew palriihes^ therefore, givt lefa trouble or emolument to
phjficiaosi than Ganiibajr.

Pbjmlation. There are 38a faitiilies In thd pzxifbg Inciudd
log thofe in the ifland of Stroma. The number of males la
881, and of females 1069, total 1950. The return to Dn
l¥eb(ler in 1^55^ was onlj X481 foub* The population has
&erefore increafcd 469 Within thefe 40 jears^ The advance-
ment of civilization, the free enjojtnent of property, a bettef
cultivated foil^ the muldplicitj of families 6n finall farms, and
more extenfive employment In fifliing and the other maritime
Occupations^ may be eonfideted as the opif ative fources of this
increale. As thefe eaufes acquire additional energy, propor«»
donal effefis may be ezpefted. Were flie wafte grounds culti'^
Tated, and ibme little branchel 6f manufafture eftabUflted, (bd
yearly produce of the foil, and the number of fouls in thtf
pariih, might amount to a third more, than what they now
are. The following lift (hews the number of births, dcathsi
ind marriages, for the laft 4 yeais<

Tears. Orihs. J)eaths,4 MarriagiS^

1787 *

«5

«9

•b

1788 «

•3

»3

1789 .

•

17901 *

—

V»fc. VIH.

kita

146 Statifiical Account

Refif and Proprietor s.^^Tht whole ralueS rent bf the p*«*^ •
rlOi atnotknts to 3855 1. 3 9. 6d. Scotch. The real rent may
be c6(nputed at about I3C0 1. Sterling. From iiob to 1500
bolls of viftufit are pearly exported, befides maintaiaing the
inhabitants. Land is divided into ^hat are called penny
Unds; halfpenny kn^s, farthing hnd% and o&Jbs. Eight oc^
tos are reckoned equal to 12 acres. The rent ef an acre, at
an average, is not below a guinea. In fome places it is 30 s.
or upwards. The Earl of Caithneb, Robert Sinclair, £fq.
^ Frefwusk; and the family of Brabfter, are the only
proprietors in the parifli; BtaMer is an inland proper-*
ty, lyiog in the centre of the diftrift. AXL the other cuU
tivated lands are. -fituated oh the coaft, extending, at Un ave*
rage, about half an Engtifh mile from the (bore. There are
alfo ftcn^aent inteijedions of mofs ajid moor; reaching down
to the fta coaft, and dividing csDt cultivsited diftrid from*
anotKer..^-.iience it is apparent, how fmsdl \ pv^yportion of
this estenfiye patiih is as jet brought into coltivation*

' Cultivation and Prodnee. ^^Tht medTiom extent of farour
doe& not exceed the fum of i/l. Sterling yeaiiy rent. By this
dudtipHcity of families, the foil is broiight up to the higheft:
pitch <if cultivation. — Oats and barley, in alternate crops, with
the addition of fome flax and potatoes^ are cte fole ob)eds<x£
agriculture. The foil, at an average, yields about 5 returns
of oats, apd above 7 of barley ; but in fome particular Ipots,
no lefs than 11 returns of barley have been resiped. — From
Martinmas till fpring, the dung of the cattle is left in the
byre; a bedding of Jry earth or peat mold is thrown above it
everyday, which mixes with the dung, and, at the fame time^
keeps the cattle warm and dry. A cart load 6f this compofl:
is reckoned more valuable as a manure, than three of pure
dung, particularly, if thrown out and expofed to the weather

through

fjfCantfhay. 147

thfough the winter; but the principal manure along the coaft,*
is tang or fea ware : it comes afhore in the greateft abundantie
daring the fpring months, when it is moft needed. A
wind blowing from the land brings the ware from the fea.— ,
This manure is folelj appropriated to the barley crop. It is
a powerful deanfer of the foil, coalcfces with it in the fhoi'teft
fpace, exerts and exhauils its nutritive virtues in the nourifli-
ment of one crop. In whatever manner it is laid upon the
field, it is a manure of the firft eftimation. Dunghills con-
fiding of earth and ware, of 6 or 12 month's {landing, feem
the moft eligible preparation of this valuable manure fdt* the
foil. From the conftanc ufe of fea-ware as a manure, aloilg
with the conftituent qualities of the foil, the cultivated lands
in moft parts of the parifli, are as fine and friable as garden
mould, and are cultivated in general with lefs ftrength, than,
comparatively fpeaking, is found requifite in other places of
the country. The foil being perfeftly clear of latent rock*
the plough is made of the flighteft conftruftion ; and, in ge-
'neral, both plough and cattle do not exceed xo 1« Sterling la
value *•

T % Propofed

^ Otts MPt begun to be (bwn about the firft wcdc of April; aad btriejr aboat
ihe 1 4th of May, nor is tht feafoo. pme for the f<vwing of the. latter fo late as
the 2ift pf June. Harycfl begins about the ift of September, and is in gcne^il
finifhed in the courfe of a month. Gray and black oats are the common growth
•f the parifh, as they are over all Qaithncfs. They nnquellionably accord better
Vr'ith the foil and climate; than the white oats.. The latter is not only a greater
r^ber of the ibil, but b far more liable to (hake in harveft, than the former.
Bread of the white oats 19 ftronger, and perhaps fomewhat fairer, but by no
means fuperior in tafte and meUowncf&.-^A nan fcrvant geu little, (bort of 3 h
Sterling per attHum, and a woman half as much. Day labourers are fddom em-^
ployed : They may be had at about 9 d. fer day without Tiduals. Mafon and-
joinef woik is fslly higher than in any part of Scotland. Carts ifc ift commoa
uk throughput the pariflu

148 Statj/lical Jccwnt

Propofid I^frQVMftftit* — As neither inolofores nor tirintcf
herding* hgye as yet taken place, green crops are of courfet
unattended to, afnong the comqion people* The proprietors and
gentlemen, vhofe attention is direfted to farming, carrj on
th^r operations on a >¥^ore liberal apd e^tenfive plan. Im-<
{^rovers, conver&nt in everj branch of agricultural employ*
ment ; with f|irms worth iqo 1. or upwards, of yearly rent ; in-
clof\ire$t green crops, implements of the moft approyedconftruc-
ttop, and Iftbouring catt}e of due fize and eftimation, are what
juftly entitle (hem to the appellation of farmers. Their
praife would be great indeed, if, by granting longer leafes to
the tenants, th^y qoi^d perfuade them pnce to begin the bufi-
nefs of inclofingf apd the culture of wafte ground, which crie^
aloud, iMid has f^ried for ages, for the advantages of the fpade
and the plough, In former tinges, s^nd even thefe not long
elapfed, unlimited fervi(:es were unqneftionably a part of the
equivalent, whi^h tenants paid for th^ lands they occupic^.
Belides money apd vid^ial, a vaft variety «of different artidea
was deipande4 frpm the farmer. A fyftem of that fort fug-
gefts a variety of reflefiions, with which the dignity and bap-
pinefs of man are deeply ponne&ed* Thefe cnftoms, as they
are ca]Ied, are now for the mpft pi^rt conyerted into money^
Unlimited fervices are no longer exigible. In one half of
the pariflit two days in fpring, and two in barveft, are the
ilipulated fervice } nor is this invariably exaded. From the
operation of prefent arrangements, in a yery ihort time the
other half wUl be equally free. ^mancipatUn is every whe^
prevailii^, an4 (h^ mpniler ftudaUfm is hid^^g bis bead iq
ibame.

Bhch Qiiik and Pq/lurage. — Caniibay, notwithftanding ita^
boundlefs extent of hill pafture, is not to be reckoned a cattle
parilh. To deCpend t9 a ^ticular enumeration, of the horbt

«a4

^Cant/hay. I49

and black eatde io it, coold aofwer little parpofot wbea it can bo
•flerted at a fafi, that not aboVe one third, of the foals or calvof «
is reared and brought up in the pariih, that are neceflarj for tho
oiltare of the foil. Grafs is one of the principal wants we havo
ep complain of. Ihe arable foil is fb precious, that the far-^
mer thinksy he could not bear taming a^j part of it into graft*
. The want of indofures and winter herding, precludes him
Iram the advantages of green crop^. The bed grab farm in
^e parilh lies on the north coaft, about an Engliih anile frosi
pongUbay Head. It is fufficient for the fupport of 30 cows«
^SiA jields butter, whicbt for ^olov md ^ualilj, is deiiBrvedly
}ie}d in (be hi|heft c^iipatioilt

Sbuf^if^t is not believed, that the whole Iheep in the pa«
rilh at prefimt ejEcced aooo. Foxes, dogs, bad feafons, and,
fibove all, the inattention of |he owners, are the caufes of the
diminution of their number, to a third part of what thej for-
merly were. They lyre fitr from l^eing qf a very good quality,
either for wool or mutton ; nor has any attempt been made to
ineliorate the bre^. The parifli in general is not natuiallj
poflefled of pafturage favourable for the rearing of iheep.
There is one pUc^ in it, however, that feema to reconunend
itfelf for the pafturage of fheep, and for nothing elfe. — This
|s Dunpjbay Htai and its environs, which might be adequate
to the fupport of 600 or 700 (beep. The Head itfelf is evefy
where covered with green to the vtxj brink of the fur**
rounding rock, with an m|:rmixture of ihort young heath*
The fituatian is dry and tff air wholelbme* The Head com^
municates with the Warth Hill^ which would relieve the paf«
turage occafionally. Upon the whole, it is hardly to be
doubted, that (beep HTould profper on this pafture, if duly aU
fended to ; and it were greatly to be wifhed, that the pro-
prietpr or poQeflbr would make the experiments

1 50 Statsfikal Idcamnt

Swrnij IJr.-n-TbereiS a faperabundance of fwine throughout
Ae parifli : they are of a fmall fixe, fatten well, and their flelh
is peculiarly tender and delicate ; but the damage they do, in the
winter feaibn, to the grab and com lands, as they are allowed to
loam at larg«, far exceeds any advantages, that can accrue from
the searing of them. Geefe and other poultry are aUb in
great plenty, though not above half the number are reared,
fince what was payable in kind to the proprietor, has beta
COQvcFtfd into money.

Average value of the above Animals.

Cso^i.— Dungiibay Head, the Berubtum of Ptolemy, is fi^
tuated in the N. E. comer of the ifland of Great Britain,
where the line of the coaft, from a northern diredion, turns,
diredly due weft, and continues its courfe,'till it reaches Cape
Wrath, with little or no variation in its reftiHnear dircftion.
This -beautiful promontory is of a circular fliape, about- 9
miles in circumference. Towards the fea, which cncompaffca
two thirds of the Head, it is one^n tinned precipice. On the
land fide, you defcend by a gentle liope into a deep valley, hav^
ing a fmall mofly rlvtilet running through it, which terxiki.
nates the Head on that quarter. Near the top of the rock,
' and on that fide which faces the Orkneys, there is a vaft
gulph or cavern, (called, by the neighbouring inhabitants, the
Clufi)i ftretching all af ound perpenclicularly down, - till ks

duiky

L. t. d.

An 01,

3 © 0

BceffcUsataid./crlb.

AcoWf - '

% 10 •

Aboffe,

3 0 0

Moltoaatad.

Aflicep. .

0 6 a

A fow,

0 12 •

Fork at ad.

A goofc,

016

A hen,

0 0 '5

Adoxeh«fEgg8ii4

dti4t7 bottom com^ on i level with the fea, t^ith tirliofe
traves it holds communication, bj an opening^ at the bafe of
the intervening rock. The bridge betwist this fearful chafm^
and the edge of the main rock, towards the fe'a, is about fix
yards wide. On the higheft part of the head, abont '50 yards
ffom the edge of the precipice, there are to be feen iridnbi^
table marks of fome houfe, or tnanfion, heretofore erefied by
the hind of man* Its bs^e, which is all that now rematfts, is
perfe&ly circular, and abbut 20 feet wide. It has probably
been occupil^d as a watch tower, or place of obfervation, cor-
r^ponding with another, the veftigcs of which are to be feen
ofl the top of Warth hill, at about the dlftance of 2 miles.

Sou^ from the Head, for about 5 miles, the Warth hill
extends its bafe to the fea brink, llie coaft is every where
elceeding bold, and the wild and varied magnificence of the
rocks are peculiarly firiking to the eye of a ft ranger. Be-
yondy for about a mile, the coad fubfides into a beautiful
£tndy beach winding around the bay, till it reaches
the manfion-houfe of Frefwick. Here the coaft again re«
fumes its boldnefs, which continues with little variation^ till It
reaches the confines of the parifh* The lands adjacent to the
ihore, for the laft 3 miles, (a little moor fouth of Frefwick
es^cepted,) are all under cultivation. The coaft is .beautiful f
the foil luxuriant and produflive.

The north coaft has but little of that ftupendous boldnefs^
for which the eaftem one is fo remarkable. In coming down
from the Head, and travelling weftward for two miles, the
walk is extremely pleafant. The grcateft luxuriancy of
growth prevails, extending from the ftiore dbout a mile inland.
The beach itfelf confifts wholly of fiiells and fliell fand,' of the
pureft white, which conttibute alike to beautify the coaft,
and to enrich the foil. In the middle of this delightful walk,
y'oa approach the celebrated refidence of John O^Groat ; but,

although

t ji Siatifiicai Acetnifd.

dthoiigh hU name be ftSl illaftrioas* the fpot is tdxedf
diftingttifluible where he dwelt. Weftward from tbe burol
of Duogiftaj' to Huna, mofa prevails to the fea brinlu
l^rom Httoa tp Gills^ is one of the moft fertile diftriAs m tbef
t«riih. The church is fituated ia the middle of it, oo »
green rifiog ground, dofe bj the Ihore, the manft about m
quarter of a mile inland from the church. Be/oQd GiUs^
there is, along the weft, a krge trad of wafte groand, though
Irerj capable of cultiiration. Miyf part of the property of
the Earl of Caithnefs, terminates the paij[(b on the weft.
This is an etceedtng populous and fertile diftrid i there are .
above lOO families on this part of his Lord(hip*s ellatetf
What he fiurms himfelf might rent for about loo 1. a-jear.

Maritime State.^-TiitTt tktt no fliips belonging to the pa<«
liih, nor harbours in it to receive them. The bays upon the
eoaft are thofe of Gills, Dungiibay, and frefwick, in all of',
which, if the weather be tolerablj moderate, veflels can liet
in iafetj, and take in their cargoes ; but, none of them axe tor
be regarded as eligible ftations in rough weathen Gills Bi^
18 preferable to the reft*

K!elf and Minerals.'^'the {iiarti of Canifbajr are exceeding
Valuable, yielding about zoo tons of kelp in a favourable fea« .
fbn, which is near as much as is made in all the reft of Gaith^
nefs. Tbey afford freeftone for building, and ware for thef
land in the greateft abundance. The fhell fhore of Dungi£»
bay, yields lime of the firft eftifliation for purity and white-;
nefs, and, in fome parts of the world, would turn tooonfider-ir
aUe account to the owner. The adjacent lands are altoge-
ther impregnated with the fand of thefe fheUs, which givea
a peculiar aftivity and deanlbefs to the foil. The fuperior

IttXuriancy

cfCani/bay. ijj

luxuriancy of the grafs in this diftrift, feems wholly owing to
the quickf nii^g influence of this calcareous manure In its neigh*
bonrhood. Near Barrogil Caftle, is found a fpecies of coal
which emits a hot vivid flame in burning, but without much
diflblution of parts, or diminution of (ize, after it becomes
extinft. It is got near the furface of the earth ; and, in all
probability, coal of a better quality may he found under it ; but,
the ftiperabundance of peat fuel, in the mofles of Canifl)ay,
in a great meafure fupcr fedes tlie necefBty of digging for it.

Boats and Filing. '^There are about 60 boat3 around the
coail, and yet not one man who lives entirely by fifliing in
the whole pariih. Each of thefe boats is the joint property of^
perhaps, 6 or 7 different owners. The fifli arc divided accord-
ing to the value of their refpe£tive fliare^ in the boat ; and, the
objeA of flfliing is not fale, but the fupport of their families*
Tlie bufinefs of agriculture, from the benignity of the foil^
and the number of hands employed, being foon and eafily dif-
patched, fhey have abundance of leifure every good day to
go a fifhing. Hence, every farmer in the pariffa, (the inland
eftate of Brabfler excepted,) is a fiflierman, and every fiflier-
man a farmer. There is, perhaps, fcarce an inftance known, of
one parifliioner ever felling a fifli to another; Fifli-mongers
have of late engaged fome boats, on the coafl, to fifh cod and ling.
at a ftipulated value ; but as this branch of induftry is yet but ia
its infancy, it merits no particular defcription on the prefent
occafion. On the north coaft, the rapidity of the tides in the
Pentland Frith is altogether unfavourable to filhing. In very
flormy weather, cod and ling are, by the force of the billows,
frequently, thrown in alive upon the fhore, and taken up by
the people, who on thefe occafions go in quell of' them. Oa
the eaft coaft, the fame difiiculties not occurring, fifliing might
unqueftionably turn to good account, if proper exertions were
Vol. VIII. U made

154 StatiftUal Account

madC) and boats accuftomed to make a greater ftretch fron
land, before they dropt their linds. Gray fiih, as thej are
called, of all kinds, abound every where around the coaft,
and conftitute a great part of the fuftenance of the inhabitants.
The fhoals of young fi(h that pour into every creek and bay,
about the beginning of September, are fuch, that a boll of
them may be caught at a few hawls, in the courie of one
evening. They feem to be the intermingled fry of various
genera, and are called by the inhabitants Celiacs. They are
tender and delicious in the higheft degree, and, in general,
between 3 and 4 inches long. While the rapidity of the tides
on the north coafl is much againft the fifliing of cod and ling,
there is perhaps no (lation in the world, where a lobfter ii(h«
ing might be more fuccefsfully carried on. The bays of Mey,
Gills, and Dungiibay, abound in lobtters to a great degree.—
A few boats at Mey, for the behoof of MeiTrs. Selby and Go.
of London, have been employed for the firft time, in this
branch of induftry, this feafon ; and, from the fuccefs they have
had, it is to be hoped, this fpecies of fifhing will foon become
general around the coaft.

Cburcbf Schools, and Poor^ \ic. — The feilion records reach
as far back as the , reftoration, but are not continued down
without many gaps and mutilations. The whole inhabitants
oftheparifh profefs.the religion of the eftabli(hed churcht
except a few of the Anabaptift perfuafion. The firft rife of
that fed in Caithnefs, was in a part of the parifh of Wick,
where a gentleman of landed property refided, whofe
views of religion inclined him to profefs and propagate the
Anabaptift fyftem : Frqpri that diflrid, bordering on Ganif-
bay, it was imported into this pariih : It is now greatly on the
decline, and never was accompanied with any fort of outrage,
wildnels, or violence in its profeiTors* The ftipend of Canif-

bayi

ofCanifbajy 155

bay is at prefent 6 cbalders of viftual, one half meal, and the
other half bear, with 200 merks of money, and the fmall
tithes of the pariih, accounted, though not equal to, 200 merks
more. — Befides the parochial fchool, there are two fociety-
fchools in the parifh, with a falarj of 10 1. each. The paro-
chial fchool may be worth about 18 1. Sterling. The church
has very lately received a good repair, and the minifler has
been extremely wcQ accommodated with new office houfes*
The manfe, unlefs attended to, will not be of long duration.
The glebe is a very fmall one, and there is little or Ho grafs
annexed to it. — ^The poor, from the feffion funds, a^d various
coUeSfions, receive, at annual diilributions, about the fum of
10 Lor 12 1. Sterling. The indigent are indeed numerous,
yet there are few or no ftroUing beggars in the parifli *.

Hrefs^ Cuftomsy XSc — In .Canifbay there are no manufac-
tures. Tbeir common apparel is of home growth and tejx-
ture, generally dyed black. Their drefs cloaths are all im-
ported, and in general of better quality, than their circum-
ftances can well afford. Both fexes are alike ambitious to
appear fine. Few country congregations are more crowded,

U 2 or

* The prefent mimfter has been YX years in office, and has not been alked for
above half a dozen certificates, ia behalf of indigent perfons, neceifitated to throw
themfeWes upon the alms of the public. The pariih, at the fame time, compant-
tively fpeaking, is far from being a rich one. The Dea is its great fupport, with-
out which, at the rate the lands are rented, it would be impoffible for the inhabi-
tants to live. The fea not only fupplies them with filh, but with bread alfo
from the great abundance of tang-manure, which even, in bad iieaions, ieldom
fails to enfure a crop. It alfo affords them employment, with fiiitable wages
during fuirmer, in the manufadure of kelp. A good deal is gained by pilotage
and not a little by fea expreffes. From thefe combined caufes, and their being
inured from their earlieft years to habits of fobriety and temperance, they may
be iaid to live in a ftate equally removed from want and from abundance.

I j;6 Statijlical Account

or brilliant in the fummer feafon. Meetings for dancing are
yerj common in winter. It is then, too, that they generally
marry. Their weddings are often crowded ; but the enter*
tainment is always gratuitous. There are annual eipigra-
tions from the pariifa, both of males and females in the me-
nial line, who leave the place of their nativity, in queft of
fuperior wages in the fouth of Scotland. Many of the young
men become foldiers, preferring the land to the fea fervice«
Their charafler in that capacity has always been to theii:
credit. There are few fuperftitious ufages among them* :
ghofts and fairies are believed to manifeft themfelves occa-
fionally. There are three popifh chapels mouldering into
defolation in the parifli, one at Frefwick, another at Brabfter,
and a third at St. John's Head. Some fuperftitious rites, now
in total difufe, were wont to be performed, by the igno-
rant vulgar, on particular days, at thefe fan&ified ruins. At
prefent, not a veftige of popery feems to intermingle in the
creed of the people. There are no wells of preternatural ef-
ficacy in the parifh. There is no day in the year accounted
inaufpicious, or, (Sundays excepted) held in higher eflimatioi^
than another.

Chara&er. — In point of ftature, there arc few of the inha-
bitants either much above or b^low the middle fi^e. Being

feldom

♦ No gentleman, however, of the name of Sinclair, either in Canifbay or
throughout Caithnefs, will put on green apparel^ox think of croOlng the Or^upon a
Moneby, They were drcffcd to green, and they croffed the Ord upon a Mon-
day, in their way to the battle of Flowdcn, where they fought and fell in the
fcrvice of their country, almoft without leaving a reprefentativc of the name be-
hind them. The day and the drefs are accordingly regarded as inaufpiciout.
If the Ord mufl be got beyond on Monday, the journey is performed by fea.
A fupcrftition thus derived from the heroifm of their anceftors, and fo well cal-
culated to excite a fimijar fpirit in their oflfspring, philofophy itfclf will allow
to be prefervcd from oblivion.

of Canijbay. 157

feldom employed in any fort of labour, ^hofe progrefs from
its difficulty Is neceflarily flow, and equal, if not fuperior, to
eveTy tafk incumbent on them to accompliih, they often ma-
nifeft the greateft activity, alertnefs and difpatch. Hence,
while occupied in walking, or fpeaking, their motion and
their utterance is rather quick than floiV. This may be part-
ly owing to their living,^ much at fea, where the greateft
poflible difpatch is fo often neceflary. The climate, with a
train of local circumftances, ferves to give a particular a&ivi-
ty to the blood and fpirits of the inhabitants of the north,
Notwithftanding this alertnefs and pomptitude in a]l their
operations, unlefs impelled to a&ion from neceffity, or the ex-
citement of fome particular intereft they have in view, there
are no people in the world fonder of doing nothing* During
their hours of idlenefs, which are many, languor and lailitude
are never obfervaLle about them« The mind, having no in-
terefls of its own to faften upon, exerts its power, for the fake
of employment, in making inveftigations into the condition and
charafler of others. Hence that folicitude after news, that
fpirit for prying into the moft hidden concerns of their neigh-
bours, with the view of gratifying curiofity rather than male-
volence ; and hence alfo, a more enlarged knowledge of their
country, and a more extenfive acquaintance and correfpon-
dence with one another, than obtains among the peafantry of
any other part of Great Britain, In the prefence of their fu-
periors, their felf-pofleilion, recolledion and faculty of utter-
ance never deferts them. Their difcernment of the purpofes
of others, and dexterity in concealing their own, are no lefs
remarkable. What a pity fuch refpeftable endowments,
fbould be left to wafte themfelves on pbjeds, neither of pub-
lic utility nor of private emolument. Were they properly
called forthy and engaged in branches of commendable induf-

try.

ijS Siati/iicjal Account

try, the gaia would be great indeedy both to themfelves and
to their country.

Antiquities and Natural Curiofities. — Houfes, faid to have
belonged to the Pifts, though in no refpeft remarkable, except
for their antiquity, are to be feen in different parts of the parifli.
The profped from Dungiibay Head, may be well reckoned a
curiofity of the firfl diiUndion of its kind. It commands the
whole of the Pendand Frith, and as far beyond it as the eye
can firetch. The Orkney Ifles appear fpread out in that hap-
py point of vifion, in which fuch objeds are contemplated
with the greateft pleafure and delight. The German Ocean
to a great extent, the Murray Frith, and the hills of Banff*,
Aberdeen, and Murrayfliire, are all under view. No travel-
ler, when he comes to John 0*Groat*s, will repent a vifit to
the Head. The Stalks of Dungiftay, as they are called, are
two piramidal pillars of . naked freeftone-rock. They rear
their fantaftic fummits a great way into the air, and ftrike
the eye of a ftranger in approaching them, as the huge fpires
of Xbme old magnificent Gothic pile. They are frequented
in fummer by innumerable Tea fowls, who hatch and bring
forth their young about their fides, while the eagle fits in
royalty upon their fummits. Near to St. John's Head, upon the
iiorth coaft, is one of the pleafantefl fpots in the whole parifii*
It affords evident tokens, of having been, in former ages, a
xefidence of great refpedability ; from a burying ground, and
the veftiges of an old chapel in the neighbourhood, now in
total ruins, as well as from the name it bears, it would iJsem
to have been confecrated to religious purpofes. From the
veftiges of a ditch and draw-bridge, defending it on the land
fide, it mud have been occupied as a place of ftrength and fe-
curity ; but, whether it has been the refidence of faints or
heroes, it affords ample proof, that neither tafte nor judgment

were

of Cant/hay. 159

were wanting, in the choice of it as an habitation. The de-
corations of art are alone wanting to render it one of the
lovelieft fpotsin Caithnefs. In the burn of Stempfler, is found
white fpar of the purell qualitji^ When put into the fire, a
very flight degree of heat makes it throw out a confiderable
portion of phofphoric light, which gradually decays as the
ftone cools, and is again recruited as the ftone is heated
a-new. When reduced to a powder, it puts on an exceeding
brilliant and beautiful appearance during ignition. In elec-
trical experimentS| it is a non-conduftor, nor does it feem
foluble in acids. About a quarter of a mile eaft from the
•hurch, there are 2 fprings of frefli water, at leaft 30 yards
within flood mark* Betwixt Brabfler and Frefwick there is
a deep hollow, called, in the dialed of the parifli, the Wolf*s
geOf which muft have derived its name from being the haunt
of wolves in former times. There are other circumflancea
handed down by tradition, which tend to prove, that this
ravenous animal was once an inhabitant of Canifbay.

Wild Animals. — ^The quadrupeds are foxes, hares, otters
and weafels. — Adders are fometimes found in the moiles, but
they are not numerous. In the links of Frefwick, Dungif- .
bay and Huna, there are plenty of rabbits, but they turn to
little account. There are alfo no^oor-fowl, plovers^ fnipes,
fome partridges, ^nd multitudes of wild pigeons in the rocks*
Birds .of paflage are, the green plover, wild goofe, fnow-fowl,
wagtail, fwallow and fail. The fnow-fowl, in the winter, are
inconceivably numerous. The bill& are exceedingly well
ftocked with the moor game above mentioned. The coafls,
throughout the year, abound in multitudes of fea-fowl. In
the fummer months, the fwarms of fcarfs, marrots, faiks, &c»
that come to hatch in the rocks of Dungifl>ay and Stroma,
are prodigious. They in a manner darken the air, when, on

an/

1 60 Statijlical Account

any fudden alarm, they take wing in a body from their nefts.
The gun makes frequent and bloody havock among them.
They are fhot for amufement frcm boats, and the common
people appropriate their flefh and feathers to their own ufe.
The fport is cruel and unprofitable, as numbers die upon their
young in the neft, or expire before they reach the edge of the
projefting flielve.

Planting. — ^Therc is no planting in the parilh. A good
many years ago, an experinient was made on a part of the
Warth Hill. A few acres were planted with firs.— ^Thcy
throve very well while young ; but the fence being infuf-
€cient, and foon mouldering away, and the plantation ezpofed
to all pofliblc injury, the whole periflied, and at prefent no
vellige of it is to be feen. The fpot was well chofen, and had
the plantation been attended to, there is hardly a doubt, but
that it would have profpered. No charge ought to be brought
againft the foil and climate, as long as the exertions of induf*
try are wanting to overcome die obftacles complained of.
Without a fuitable choice of ground, both as to foil and ihel-
ter, and without proper inclofures, what fuccefs can or ought
to be cxpeSed ? The bums of Frefwick, of Dungifbay, and
the winding braes of Gills, where, in defiance of the depreda*
tlons, both of man and bead, fome natural bruih-w^od main-
tains its refidence, feem to claim a preference in experiments
of this fort.

Roads, Inns^ Traffic^ \Sc. — The public roads in the parifii are
thofe leading from Huna to Wick and Thurfo, both lying along
the doafl, the one in a foutherly, and the other in a wefterly
direftion. They have never been completed, and are very un-
comfortable in the winter. A third from Huna, leading in-
to the middle of the country by Brabilery would be a great

3 conveniency

ffCanifbay. i6l

conveniencj to other parifiiesy as well as to Canifbaj. Tip-
pling houfes are by far too numerous in the pariih : They
have undoubtedly a bad influence on the induflry, as well as
morals of the people. Three, befides the ferry houfes, are all
that ought to be allowed. From Huna, the ferry boat crofles
with the mails for Orkney once a week. From Burwick in
South Rofialdihay, the Orkney mails in like manner cr^fs to
Iluna. The diflance there, being the fhorteft betwixt Caith«
nefs and Orkney, is reckoned 4 leagues in extent. \t a paf«
fenger goes abng with the mails, the freight is is.; but if he
hires the ferry boat for himfelf^ it is 7 s« Although the Pent-r
land Frith may be defervedly accounted the moft tempeftuous
piece of fea, around the ifland of Britain, it is remarkable how
few accidents happen in croffing it ; but the danger it
threatens, fuggefts the means of preventing it. The time of
tide is obferved to a minute, in putting out to fea. The boats
are ftrong and of good conftrudion ; the boatmen perfed maf-
ters of their bufinefs, and acquainted from their infancy with
every circunoflanoe, refpeAing the vsiriation of the tides they
have to go throogb. In the famm^r feafon, ther^ is almoft a
continued cotkimunication betwixt Caithnefs and Orkney, ip
the traffic of horfes. Colts from the highlands of C^Uhnefs,
from Sutherland and Strathnaver are fold, to Orkney ; and thefe
veiy colts, when paft their prime, are again brought from Ork*
aey, and re-iitiported into Caitbnefs. By far the greated
number of thefe crofs to and from the fliores of Ganiibay, on
account of the fhortnefs of the paflage. Large boats are nvide
for tranfporting them ; and the freight of each cok is z s., and
a full grown horfe is. 8d» to the neareft land. There are
3 petty markets in tbe^pariib, in the courfe of a yeatr, one ia
December, and the other in February.

Yqu VIII, X ^gyag^f

1 62 Staiiflicd Account

Language %3c. — The Scotch, with an intermixture of fam«
Norwegian vocables *, is the only language fpoken in the pa-
rlfli. Tlie pronunciation, as well as language of the peafanCry^
is better than what prevails among the vulgar in more fouthem

counties.

f The nuncs of plaices feem to b« derived from the ]^niregian language.
$ter^ which fignifies an ^au^ is the tenninating fyllable of an immenfe number
of the names of places in, Caithnefs and elfewhere. They coniift for the mud
part of two fyllables, the firft moft probably being the name of feme diftinguiih-
cd pofleflbr. Many maritime places, both in Caithnefs and Orkney, derive
their names froQi fome peculiarity refpe^ng the coaft or the tides» Aaty in the
J^aniih tongue, fignifies a current of water, or the particular courfe of a tide.
It feems to claim an affinity with t|ie Gaelic ambtu^ and the Latin ammity both
fignifying a river .-^Where wch is the terminating fyllable, the place is not only
maritime, but there is always, in its vicinity, an opening of the coaft, larger
than a creek, but fmaller than a bay, whole two containing fideaform an angle,
fimilar to that of the lips, tenninating in the cheek. It ii remarkable, that, ii|
the Scotch 4iale^ this is always termed the wmI of the mouth,. It does not
therefore appear, that there is the leaft affinity betwixt w^i and wtf/. The for*
mer vocable is for the moft part, if not always, maritime : the latter, from the
meaning of the word, can Have no poffible refpeA to local fitnation. If wck
were derived from «/««/, we would find wch* as generally inland as upon th^
coaft ; and every place bearing the name of wick ought either to be, or to affor<|
fome evidence, that in former ages it had been a village. In Orkney, there are
a great number of wicks, and in Caithnefs two. They are all upon the coaft,
and every one of them chara^erifed by an opening in the rocks, of the particular
figure above defcribed.

From the above obfervatxons, the names of moft places in Canifbay are of eafy
derivation. Hmna is made up of the words kml^ and aae. The former is the
fame as haUow in EngUfii, and hvu> in Scotch : The latter is the tide ftream,
or current, oppofite to the coaft. In confirmation of this etymology, Huna is
one of the loweft lying places in the parifti, and where the tides are lefs rapid
than on other parts of the coaft. Stroma is compounded of 5/r«w an4 aot ; the
former in the Daniih tongue fignifying impetuous, and the latter, a current, as
already obferved. The tides around Stroma, are fnppofed to run at the rate of
near 10 knots an hour. Frefwick is the f^ten v;icJk, from/rifi, fignifying green,
and the figure in the coaft ftrikiogly defined in its vicinity, which is found in every

pUoe,

of Cdnijhay. 163

<;i»antie&. The better fort, and cfpccially the fair fex, fpeak
ks well, and with as little peculiarity of accent, as their equals
in any part of Scotland. There is fcarcely a place in the
whole parifli^ whofe name is not of Norwegian derivation.
The Gaelic is totally unknown in Cgnilbay ; nor is there a
place throughout the parilh; whofe name indicates the leaft
affinity to that language.

? ManfioH Hdufes^^^^Tht houfe of Fre/wici is a modern
buildingi fufficiently eotomodious and elegant. About 25
years ago, in the month of February, the thunder broke oa
•sit of its wings, threw down a chimdey top« and rent the
v^aUfromtoptobottoili,beiides damaging thegreateft part of the

X 2 windows*

place, where wick obtains. Perhaps It is horn frifi that the Englifh -wiftd/re/h it
ierived, which fometimes bean a meaning little diiTerent from greeM.

Dungifbay Head is called, by Ptolemy, ^nCMf*, a word evidently formed fironi
flw name it bote, in the days of this geographer. The Greeks hjld no word, id
their ofwn langqage; hsviog m for the terminating letter ; hot in writing of pto-
fiona or places, among barbarians^ they frequently end the vocable with m; per-
haps that it might appear as a barbarifm, compared with the muilcal founds of
their own iarmcmious tongue. The word Beij would feem to have been t
Common appellation to fuch places as l>ungiibay Head iii thofe times. At thi«
day, a fimilar proroimtory, in the ifland of Walb 2n Orkney, is teilned the Sery^
The word Is dcaily of N6rwegian derivation: It fignifies a place of obferv&tion }
or a principal fiation, for difcoTering the approach of ab enemy by Tea, when at a
great difbance. The evident remains of a watch tower, on Dungifbay Head, are
a proof of what is here alTerted. Bereiter, in the C^niih tongue, to this day fig.
aifies to comnltnnicate intelligence, to warn or give notice^ The name of Warth
tr Vanh Hill is of -fimilar derivation. Varigry in the above hnguage is to attend^
to wait 00, «r to watch for. Hence the fpeculam on the Head, being the prin«
dpal ftation, was to difcover and communicate to that on the Varth Hill ; wbere^
as the ofike of the latter was, to {bnd in waiting for fuch information, from the
former, to receive and tranCnit the difcoveries communicated from the Bery,
Mty woi^ HT^^ ^° ^^^ ^^ name, from the estrly and luxuriant verdure oi
what is called the Bank Head, in the fpring months. Brahjin is the eftatc
•r pofleiSon ^IBrtk.

t64 Statlflical Account r

windows. — Barrogil Cafik is an old ariftocradc pile ; But, re-
newing its age apace, under the additions and embellifliinents
it is daily receiving from its noble owner. The manfion
houfe of Brabfter is old, and fituated in the naoft inland part
of the parifli. The ruins of three ancient towers or caftles
are ftill to be feen ; one in Mej, another fouth of the
prefent manfion houfe of Frefwick *, and a third fituated on
the weft fide of the ifland of Stroma : They are all built
upon rocks rifing out of the fea, have been occupied as place!
of defencci and» in all probabili^, inhabited by heroes.

tfiand of Stroma. — ^The ifland of Stroma is fituated in the
Pentland Frith^ about a league from the fliore of Canilbay. It
is a mile long, and half a mile in breadth. It contains 30
families, 97 females and 73 males, and rents at about X20 L
Sterling per annum* It is very produ&ive in com ; but the
inhabitants are obliged to fttpply themfelves with fuel, from
the moiles on the main land. The tenth iheaf was heretpfote
taken in part payment of the rent. This, with all other cttf«
toms and fervicesi has of late been converted, by the pre&nt
proprietor, at the defire of the people, into money. There are
few difcriminating features in the charafter of the Stromare*
ans from the other inhabitants of the parifli. They fpeak
the fame language, wear the frme apparel, and obferve the
fame cuftoms. The fea is one of their principal fources of
fupport. They are dabbling in ialt water from their child-*
hood upwards. From their political fitnation, and the fim-
plidty, fobriety and induftry, natural to them, there are
perhaps few iflandertf on earth happier than thofe of Stroma*
They have a fociety fchool in the ifland, and they come very
regularly by fea to church, when the weather allows them to
crofii the found. On the wefl of the ifland, there if a vaft

, cavern
* For a view of the oMCaftle of Frerwick,fec PennantVTour.

rf CQni/haj4 it$

caTern, (or Glupe,^ it is called,) at aboi^t 30 yards from the
beach. It ftretches down to a level with the fea, whofe waves
are feen pouring into it, by a narrow opening at the bottom*
The fea is often exceedingly tempeftuous, around the ifland im
the winter months. The coaft on the weft is exceedingly bold*
The tremenduous elevation of the billows, that beat againft
it during a ftorm» from that quarter, exceeds all power of de»
fcription. Although the rocks are only inferior to thofe of
Dungifi>ay Head, the fpray is tofled above their loftieft fum-
mits, and falls in fuch profofion as to run in rills to the op-
pofite fhore. A refervoir, in a commodious fituation, is made
to receive it, together with the rain which the clouds im-
part ; and hence, a mill is kept going in the winter monthst
for grinding the grain of the ifland. The agitation of the.
fpray is often fo great, that the water in the fpring wdls be*
comes brakifli, and a fait tafte prevails in the ain The tide
is fuppofed to rife to the height of 6 fathoms from loweft,ebb.
During a ftorm from the weft, the rife of the fea, on that fide,
is more than a fathoms higher, than on the eaft of the ifland«
From the antifeptic influence of the fait particles, perpetually
floating in the air, mummies were preferved for a great
length of years, and were wont to be exhibited as curiofities,
in a chapel fituated in the iflai|4* The mummies are now
deftroyed, and the chapel is unroofed and mouldering into ruin*

Pettthnd Frith. — The Fentland Frith is reckoned 24 miles
in length, and varies from 4 to 5 leagues in breadth. It
has the Orkney Ifles on the N. and the coafts of Caithneis on
the S., and forms a communication between the German and
the Atlantic Oceans. In the mouth of the frith, and nearly half
way between Dungi(bay Head and the Orkneys, are fituated
the Fentland SisrrUs, Thefe are two fmall uninhabited
iflands, the one ccnfiderafaly larger than the other, and ftretclu

ing

1 66 Statijliial Account

ing a liltle eaftward of Dnogiflbaj Head, the iflai&d of Stroitrii
Ijiag about two leagues to the weft. The parts of the frith;
moft dangerous to navigatioa. are two currents, firetching from
Dungilbay Head and St. John's Head, to a confiderable dif-
tance from land. The former is called the Boars of Bungtf^
hay^ and the latter the Main of Mey. The billows in them'
are often fwoUen to a monftrous fize, even in the fineft fum*^
mer day. They feem to arife from the collifion of tides in
oppofite diredions, and recoiling with increafed impetuofity
from the head lands above mentioned. — Without the aid of ikiU
fnl pilotage, they are hazardous even in the calmeft weathers
The tides in every part of the frith are various and irregular^
and of courfe the navigation dangerous, efpecially in the
night, where a very fmall deviation from the proper courfd
may be attended with fatal confequences.

A lighUHoufe Propofed, — ^For the above reafons, and toAnf
more that might be advanced, there is not, around the ifland
of Britain, a ftation where a light-houfe is more requifite;
than in the mouth of the Pentland Frith. A year does not pafs,-
without fome fatal accidents to (hipping, from the want of it;
Either Dungiibay Head, or the largeft of the Pentland Sker-
riesi is the ftation where a light-houfe ought to be erefted;.
A light on the Head would ferve to illuminate the Pentland
Frith to the weft, and the German Ck:ean to the eaft, as far
18 the eye could difcern it. No doubt its altitude in foggy
weather is an argument, agaiijft it, as a ftation for a light
houfe; but, from the prevalence of winds in this quar*
ter of the world, fogs would very rarely obftrud the
light. The Skerry alfo, would unqueftionably be, in many
refpe&St an excellent ftation. It is eaft of the Head, and of
every part of the coaft. From its local lituation, it would
probably yield, as fure a guidance to ftiipping, as qould be

expefted

of Cant/bay. 167

Mcpefted from a light-houfe on the Head. It promifcs, in^
jdeedy many advantages as a ftation for a light-houfe ; and the
principal ohje&ions which can be argued againft it, are, the
great difficulty there would be, to find a perfon willing to a«u
cept of fo tempefiuous a refidence in the winter months ; and
the ezpence, which would be at leaft 6 times greater than at
the Head. Thefe points being confidered, perhaps, it is up- '
on the Head where the experiment ought firft to be tried*
A light-houfe on either of thefe ftations, would be an infallible
fafeguard to yeflels from miftaking the bays of Reifs and of
Frefwick in the night, for the Pendand Frith. This has been
often done, and the moft fatal confequences have enfued.
All mariners declare, that they would have no more hefi-
tation in failing through the Pentland Frith, at the dead of
night, than at mid^day, bad they the guidance of a light-
houfe to dire& their courfe. The number of vefiels, that pafs
and repafs in the Pentland Frith, during the courfe of a year,
may be reckoned about 2000, or even upwards.

jiccomi of John O^GROA'fs HQUSE.^^VIt fhall conclude
this paper, with an account of the moft memorable place in the
parifli, which has often been vifited, by travellers from very
diftant countries, who, it is believed, have rarely been ndade
acquainted with the peculiar circumftance, which firil gave
rife to its celebrity ; its fame having been in genKl errone-
oufly attributed, to its mere local fituation, at the northern
extremity of the ifland ; whereas, it originated in an event
not unpleafing to relate, and which fumiihes a ufeful leflbn
of morality*

In the reign of James IV. of Scotland, Makotm^ Ga*
vin and yobn de Groat^ (fuppofed to have been bro*
thers, and originally from Holland,) arrived in Gaithnefs,
from the fouth of Scotland, bringing with them, a letter
jirrittcn in Latin, by that prince, recommending them to the

countenance

i68 -' Statlftical Account

countenance and protedion of his loving fubjefts» in th«
county of Caithnefs* Thej purchafed, or got pofleilion of, the
lands of Warfe and Dungifbaj^ Ijiug in the parifh of Ca-
mfbajy on the fide of the Pentland Frith ; and each of them
obtained an equal (hare of the property they acquired. In
procefs of time, their families increafed, and there came to be
eight different proprietors of the name of Groat, who poffef-
fed thefe lands amongfl them ; but, whether the three original
fettlers fplit their property among their children, or whether
they purchafed for them, fmall poffeiBons from one anotheri
does not appear.

Thefe eight families, having lived peaceably and comfort*
ably in their fmall pofleiEons, for a number of years, eftablifli*
ed an annual meeting, to celebrate the annivcrfiiry of the arriv*
al of their anceftors on that coaft. In the courlie of their fefti^
vity, on one of thefe occafions, a queftion arofe, refpefting the
right of taking the door, and fitting at the head of the table, and
fuch like points of precedency, (each contending for the feni*
ority and ehieftainlbip of the clan,) which increafed to fuch a
height, as would probably have proved fatal in it9 c^nfequen-
ces to fome, if not to all of them, had not John de Groat,
who was proprietor of the ferry, interpofed. He having ac«
quired more knowledge of mankind, by his conftant inter**
courfe with ({rangers paffiog the Pentland Frith, faw the dan^
ger of fucff difputes ; and having had addrefs enough to pro^^
cure filence, he began with expatiating on the comfort and
happinefs they had hitherto enjoyed, fince their arrival in that
remote comer, owing to the harmony which had fubfifted
among them. He afiured them, that, as foon as they appear-
ed to fplit and quarrel among themfelves, their neighbours,
who till then had treated them with refped, would fall upon
them, take their property from them, and expel them from
die county^ He therefore conjured them, by the ties of

blood,

of Cani/bdy. \6^

t)lood, and their mutual fafety, to return quietly, that night,
to their feveral homes ; and he pledged himfelf, that he would
fatisfy them all with refpeA to precedencj, and prevent the
poffibilitj of fuch difputes among them, at their future an-
hiverfary meetings. Thej all acquiefced, and departed itL
peace. In due time, John de Groat, to fulfil his en-
gagement,, built ^ room, diflinfi by itfelf, of an o&ogou
fiiape, with 8 doors and windows in it i and having placed in
the middle, a table of oak, of the fame ihipe, when the next
anniverfary meeting took place, he defired each of them to
enter at his owadooTi aiid to fit at the head of the table"; he
taking hiinfelf the feat that was left unoccupied. Bj this in-
genious contrivance, any difputq, in regard to rank, was pre-
vented, as they all foitnd themfelves on a footing of equality,
and their former harmony and good humour were reftored.
That building was then named John O'Groat's houfe, and
though the houfe is totally gone, the place whete ft flood ftill
fetains the name, and deferves to be remembered, as long as
good intentions, and good fenfe, are eftimable in k country *.

Vol. VIII. Y NUMBER

* The {Hutknlari 7^>awt mentioptd, were communicated to John Sntherlandf^
£f<|. of Wefter, above 50 years ago, by his father, who was then advanced in
Iffe, and who had fcen the letter wrote by James IV. in the pofleffion of George
<>roat of Warfe. The remains of the oak table have been feen by many noT^
iifing, wlo bate inlcribed their names on it.

IjB Statifiical Account

NUMBER X.

PARISH OF NEWBURGH-

{County and Synod of Fife. — Prejbytery ofCupar^

By tie Rev. Mr. Thomas Stu ART.

Namef Situation^ Extent and Soil.

THE town of Ncwburgh has evidently giren its name
to this pariih; and the fignificant term, bj which it if
denominated, maj have been impofed in reference to fome
more ancient burgh in the neighbourhood* It forms the
boundary of the county of Fife, on the N. W— -The extent
of the pariih is inconfiderable, and its figure very irregular^
one part of it being detached from the other *• The foil on
the N. and E. of the town of Newburgh, where the ground
islowand flat, confifts of rich clay, not inferior in quality
to any in the Carfe of Gowrie ; on the we(l of the town, and
near to the river, where the ground rifes higheri it is light and
gravellUh ; more foutherly, where the ground fuddenly dips, it
tends to mofs \ and ftill farther fouth, where the ground again
rifes into the Ochil Hills, it becomes, in fome places, dry and
loamy, in others wet and tilly. In the eftate of Pitcairly,

however,

* See Ainflie*9 map of the coumici of Fife and Kinrofik

ofNewhurgb. 171

liowever, owing to the fortunate flopings of the eminences^
and the largenefs of the interjacent flats, there are many fields
well adapted to the purpofes of agricahnre, which have, ac-
cordingly, been brought by the proprietor, into a ftate of fer-
tility and cultivation.

ClimaU^ Di/eqfes^ (^r.^In the hilly parts of the porifh, the
climate, althengh cold, is reckoned more healthy, dian in the
lower grounds, on the bank of the river, where the town of
JNewburgh (lands. Itbere the flat is hemmed in on the fouth,
by the Ocbil Hills, which obftmft the fun's xnfiuence, while
it lies open, on the oppoiite fide, to the N. £• winds, that
blow np the Frith of Tay with piercing keeanels. Notwith-
Jlanding this, epidemical diftempers are not more frequent, or
more fatal in Newburgh, than in other parts of the neigh-
bouring country. Rhenmatifms and confumptions may be
ftated, as the difeafes, to which its inhabitants are mod liable.
The praftice of inoculating for the fmall poz, not having be-
come general, many children are, from time to time, loft by
that difeafe. In the courfe of fpring and fummer 1791, no
fewer than 56 children died of it, in the town of Newburgh.
But \% may be expefled, that the fame diftemper will not in
future, find fo many Tiftims, as the good fenfe, and weU
direfted affeftion of parents begin to overturn any prejudices,
they might formerly have entertained on that fubje&, and to
^^&i^ them in taking that eafy flep, for faving the lives of
their offspring, which experience juftifies, and which Provi-
dence, from the fuccels attending it, feems to fandion and ap^
prove.

J{fv#r/.— No river runs through this parifli. The Tay,
which waflies its northern extremity, more properly form-
ing a boimdary to it, than making any part of it* But the

Y 2 Tay

1 7* StaSiftical Account

Jay may ind t place io the ftatiflical accoiint of any diftrift,
that reaches to its boriier. This noble river^ having rcceivcfd
the acceffion of the water of the Earn, begba at Newbargh,
to aflame the appearance of aa arm of the fea ; and, bj the in-r
habitants of that town and neighbourhood, is deDomioated
the Broad Water. When the tide in it, however, has ebbed,
it leaves a cpnfiderable part of its channel dry ; and, ooUca*
log itfelf into two currents, pailes along the oppofite fides of
its bed, in what are termed the North and South Deeps. The
^uth Deep, contains by far the greateil quantity of water,
and furniihes the courfe, whiph vefTels of burden ufually hold,
in paiBng up and down the river. As far up as Newburgh,
the Tay admits veflels of 500 tons burden ; but above the
confluence of the Earn, beyond which Perth is fituated, vefr
£els of 200 tons burden, when deep laden, proceed with difi*
ficulty. Veflels, however, of about 90 or 100 tons burden,
(in which the trade with Perth is nfually carried on,) eafily
make the fhore of Perth ; and whep larger veflels are employ*
ed in that trade, part of their cargoes ii diftributcd among
lighters, on their arrival at the ihore of Newburgh.

Salmon Fiflnng^^mJBAits being favourable to commerce,
the Tay furniihes great quantities of excellent (almon, the
fifliing of which has, efpecially of late years, becomes con^
fiderable fource of wealth to all who have prq>erty in the
river. The proprietor of that part of its channel, qn the foutb
fide, which eorrefponds to the length of the parifli of New-
burgh, draws about aoo 1. Sterling, of yearly rent, for hicf
^fhings \ and, in fituations farther up, where the channel is
not fo broad, nor the tide fo powerful, proprietors receive a
much greater rent for a tnuch lefs extent of water. What
f fiables fiihermen to pay fuch high rents, is^ tl|c great price

t^^ Newhurgb. 175

wbidb ftlmoii bring in the London matket. The eomplay at
Pertbf whbfa cents the bulk of fialmon filings in the Taj,
feldom expo&s fiih eo fale in Scotland, except at Perth ; bat
/condones to fend them to London through the whole fifliing
faifon. When the weather is not uncommonly warm, or the
/i.fll more than ordinarilj abundaat^they are fent np freft. For
^onTejittg them, the company employs no fewer than 4, and
fometimes 5 fmacks, of aboot 90 tons burden each, which are,
jffi genera}, navigated by failors belonging to Newbnrgh.
Thefe light, but ftrong built Teffds, are kept running at aB
weathers, with almofl any quantity of fiOi; and, as the
voyage, in the fiibing (eafon, cannot be long, they generally
bring iheir cargoes to market perfectly found, efpecially fince
the praftice has prevailed, of packing the falmon in ice-- 4)ne
fitnated 00 th^ border of the Tay, is pkafed with obfefving
this new and gainful trade to the capital.^ and cannot help
admiring the fpirited induftry of that merchant, by whom it '
-WES firfl: rendered corifidenible. At the faoEke tiaae, he may
be allowed to expreft his regret, that any advantages arifing
from a monopoly of falmon, ihould prevent the iubabitaots of
three eounties, from (baring in thofe delicacies, which Provi*
deuce annually fcatters in fuch abundance upon their (hores.

HiUs and Woodsy—The hills in the parifli of Newbnrgh,
piefent no remarkable appearance. Like the generality of
hills, in that extenfive ridge, which runs, with little interrup*
tion, from the neighbourhood of Stirling, to the^N. £• ex-
tremity of Fife, they are broad-topped, green, and in many
places, arable.-^-That abrupt rock near to Newburgb, on the
S. £•, which excites the furprife, and fometicnes awakens the
terror of ftrang'ers, in paiBng along the road immediately un-
der it, belongs to the parlih of Abdie. In regard to woods,
if does not lippear, that there have been any of great extent,

174 Statifitcal Account

in the parifli of Newburgh, at leaft within the period to whidi
its written records reach ; although it is not improbabk, that
the wood mentioned in the hifiorji of Sir Wiluam Wa£«
X.ACE, bj the name of Iron^Side^ may have anciently coyer*
cd its lower grounds. Above 20 years ago, the proprietor
of Fitcairly» having inclofed the greateft part of his lands, in
that quarter, with ditches and fione fences, run along many
ftripes, and interfperfed feveral confiderable clumps of difierent
kinds of wood, which give a cheering appearance to his eftate^
as it unezpeftedly opens on the view of the traveller, in cro£-
fing a diftrid, otherwife uninclofed, and ill fupplied with trees*
Of late years, fimilar fteps have been taken, in the lower
grounds, on the eftate of Mugdrum ; and at no great diftanee
of time, the beauties of that place, naturally delightful, may
be much heightened, by various well difpofedf and thriving
plantations.

Antiquities.-^ At the N. E. extremity of this parifli, '1
the river Tay, on a gentle rife, in the middle of a rich, and
not uneztenfive flat of clay lands, appear the ruins of the an^
cient Abbey 0/ Undores. Concerning the hiftory of this
Abbacy, while it continued under the power of the church, or
after it was ere&ed into a temporal lordfliip, nothing material
can be difcovered, which has not already been made public.
About the year 1741, the abbey, with a fmall part of the ab*
bey lands, which, till that time, had been retained by the
family of Lindores, pafled into the hands of the fon of a former
minifter of Newburgh ; and, by a fubfequent Me, have conoe
into the poflei&on of the famUy of Mugdrum. What may
have been the extent of the buildings of the abbey, in former
times, one cannot judge, as part of the grounds, which they
once occupied, is now converted into arable land^ Remains
of the church, however, are ftill extant, which fbew, that it

mud

. tfNewhurgb. • 175

inoft have bees a larg«, if not an elegant biiilding. . Parts, alfo^
of the garden walls are ftill fianding, which fuggeft no mean idea
of the wealth of the clergj who inhabited it, and flronglj mark
the pains thej had uken, to fecnre the delicacies and luxuries
of the table. Within thefe walls, and for a finall fpace be-
yond them, on one fide, the ground continues to be occupied
by fruit trees, which, havbg been long fioce planted, exhibit
appearance? of decay, that, viewed in conjundtion with the
mouldering fragments of flru&ures, half covered at top with
ivy, and furrounded at bottom with thorn and hazel, give an
air of melancholy grandeur to the place at large* That
dwelling houfe, fituated in the heart of the ruins, and occu«
pied occafionally, till of late years, by the proprietors, or their
friends, muft have been repaired from fome more ancient fiu
brie, or an entire new building of flones taken out of the
walls of the abbey. If we may credit tradition. It wa^
reared by the firft Lord Lindores, in the beginning of
laft century, and has received confiderable additions and
improvements fince that period. Formerly ftrangers, who
vifited the ruins of the abbey, had a ftone coffin point-
ed out to them, which was placed within the area of
the church, on the north wall, towards the eaft end, which
was faid to have contained the remains of an Earl of Douglas ;
but, in confequence of depredations lately made upon the
walls, it is now covered over with rubbiih. Whether this
coffin did in fad contain the bones of an Earl of Douglas, or
of a Duke of Rothfay, or perhaps of fome dignified ^cdefiaftic
belonging to the abbey, no certain information can be pro-
cured, as there is not a fingle infcription to be found in any
part of the church, or of the other buUdings, which might
lead to the difcovery of fads of fuch remote antiquity* Upon
the whole, in viewing the abbey of Lindores, nothing is qow
to be met with, worthy of attaching the curiofity of the vifi-

ton

t^6 $tatifiicai Account -

€or« If ever it prefented any ilriking difplays of the tafl^^
•nd mgnificence of our forefatfaers, tbey have been remov«
€d ; and, flumld the pradice of demolifliing its ruins contU
mie a it^n years longer, the eye of the moft prying antiquary.
irill fcarcdy be abk to difcem the fituation Wb^re it was
placed.

Befides the ruins of the abbey of Lindores, this parifh con-
tsina two croflea of very ancient ere&ion. One of tbefe is^
pladed on a riling ground, a little weftward of the town of
Kewbnrghy and within 4 yards of the Tay. The other is fi-
tsated at the diftance of fomewhat lefs than a mile to the S.
in an opening of the Ochil Hills, on the confines of Strath-
eanr, where the road, formerly leading towards Lindores, fe^
parates from that which at prefent leads to Auchtermuchty.
The lower crols, known by the name of the Crofs of Mug-
dmm, confifts of one latgd ftone placed upright in another,
which has been hollowed for receiving it, and which ferves
to retain it in an ereft pofition. Upon the upright ftone, al-
tiumgh mutilated, remains of the figures of horfes may ht
traced ; but no veftige of any infcription appears. The up-
per crofs, called Crofs M^Duff, confifts, at prefent, of one
large quadrilateral block of freeftone, rudely indented in fe«
veral places, but is faid to have had formerly another ftone
ftanding upright ; although the ftone now lying along the
the ground, has no appearance of ever having been hollowed,
in die manner of that which forms the bafe of the Crofs of
Mugdrunx. No fatisfa&ory account can be given of the va«
rious purpofes, which thefe crofles were originally meant to
ferve. The tradition, which conneds Crofs M^Duff with the
jurifdiAion of the powerful Thane of Fife, may not be defti-
tote of foundation ; but in regard to the Cro(s of Mugdrum,
even tradition ceafes to furnifh any information. It were
needleis fo quote the lines of jargon, which are faid to have

bee»

ofNewburgb. 177

b^eii engraved on the Crofs M*Duff. They arc to be found
ih every book, which treats of that ancient monument *«

Z Tdwn

* Altboug;h tradition has retained few particulars, refpeding the hifiory of
either of the croffes, it continues to preferve the memory of the fpot, in the
lands belonging to the town of Newburgh, on which more than one unfortunate
viftim fell a facrifice to the fuperftitioh of former times, intent on ^unifliing the
crime of witchcraft. The humane provifibos of the legiflature, joined to the fu-
perior knowledge, which has, of late years, pervaded all ranks of men in fociety,
bid fail to prevent the return of a phrenfy, which aduated our forefathers unirer-
fally, and with fatal violence. But we may well be furprifed, in obferving how
iiear to bur own times, it continued to exert its influence over the judgment, not
e^ the comnioa people only, but of thofe too, who, by their education, Ihoold
have been raifed above vulgar prejudices.' As Ute a« the year 1653 » the records
of this pariih, contain articles of an additional charge, brought by the miniiler
himfelf, againfl Katharine Kay, while under procefs of fcandal, before thtf
kirk-feflion, for imprecating curfes upon him, beeaufe he had debarred her ac*
dels to the conmiilnion, which evidently (hew, that he entertained fufpicions of
lier being a #itch. The articles, or points of accufation, as the records tertnt
iSiem; are 5 in nuinber ; and as tltiey ferve to exhibit a (biking pidure of fenti-
ments, once prevalent among the people of this country, no apology is requiiice
tor, taking the liberty of inferting them.

•* Newburgh, Septeniiber i8th, 165J. The which day, ye miniftcr gave in,
" againft Kathrine Key, feverall poynts yt had c<^m'c to his hearing, which he
*' defyred might be pnC to tryeU. I. That being refiifed mdk from Chriftiaa
** Orme, 6r iovaA other in David Orme*s -houfe, the kow gave nothing^ but red
« blood ; and being fent for, to fie the kow, (he clapped (ftroked) the kow, and
«*" (aid, the kow will be weill, and thereafter the kow becam weiU. a,^That
•« John Philp having ane kow new calved, the faid Kathrine Key, came in and
«* took forth ane peice fyre, and yrafter the kow bccai^ fo fick, that none expe^*
^ ed ih« fould have lived. An J the faid Kathrine bcmg (cut for, to (ie the kow,
*' (he clapped the kow, and (aid the kow will be weill enough, and (he amen-
** dit. 3. That the miniiler and his wyfe, having ane purpofc t» take ane chyld
*< of theirs from the fd Kathrine, which (he had in ntkrfing, the ckyld woMkfiick
*< none woman's breaft, being only one quarter old •, but being brought again 'to
•* the faid Kathrine, prefently fucked her breaft. 4. That thereafter the chyld was
" JPv^ (weaned), (he came to (ie the child, and wold have the bairne (child)
"* ifl her arxils, an^ yrafter, t&e bairne mtfrned aad graft (weeped fore), in the

« nighS

1^8 Siatijiical Account

7iw/» ofNewhtrgh^ its Hifiory^ lie. — The town of New^
burgh arofe, in the times of popery ; and, at an earlj period*
was ereded into a burgh of regalitj, under the Abbot gf
Lindores. In the year i6oC, James VI. ereded the Abbacy
of Lindores into a temporal Lordfhip ; and, in the year 1631^
bis fon Charles I. granted a charter to the town of Newburgh,
forming the community into a proper royal burgb, with the
feveral immunities and privileges, ufually conferred on ther
royal burghs of this kingdom. At prefent, Newburgh has
no voice in the choice of a rcprefentative to parliament ; but,
in all other refpeds, it retains the features of a royat burgh.
Its revenue, indeed, is very inconfiderable, not exceeding 25 L
Sterling, per annum, out of which the niiinifter receives, yearly,
no 1. Scotch, in payment of ftipend. NotwithAanding which^
its office bearers make a decent appearance ; a (iourt is held in
it weekly, with marks of dignity ; and it retains a clerk of abi-«
Kty for recording its public proce«dings.<-»One, who has oc-
cafion to obferve the importance of infuring full fefpeft, to
perfons cloathed with the office of magiftrates,. may be allow-
ed to exprefs a wilh, that government would devife fome me«
thod of increafing the revenues of the lefler burghs. A fmall
fum of the public money applied in this way, could not fail'
of contributing to the prefervation of order, in places, which,

owing

** nigliti and almoft the dij tyme ; alfo, tliac liothiog conld fkxf Her, nntill fhe
<* died. Neverthelefs, befor her comifi^ to fie her^ and her embracing of her,
** took ai Weill wt the fpaining, and refted at weiU aa any bairne could doe,
** 5. That (he is of ane evill 6nitte (report) and fame, and fo was her mother be«
** fore her." When theie points were put to trial by the kirk-fcifion, the eTi«
deoce of their truth did not, it (hould feem, come oat with fuch cleamefs, aa to
enable the kirk-fei&on to pais fentence againft Katherine ; and they accordingly
referred the matter to the prelbytery of Cupar for decillon. But in what man*
ner the prefbytcry of Cupar treated it, no notice is taken in the records of th*.
kirk-feifioa*

%f Newburgb^ 179

Mring to the general increafe of wealth, and other obvious
caiifes, are in fome danger of requiring the authority of an
eftabliflied and refpe&able magiftracyy to preierve them in
tranquiliitj and good order.

The town of Newburgh, conlifts of one ftreet of confider-
mble length, with fmall fuburbs at each end, and a lane lead-
ing towards the ihore from its centre. The houfes, on each
6de of the lane, and, in the fuburbs, have been built within
thefe 30 years. The town itfelf, dbes not occupy more ground
than it did in the end of laft century j but, in confequence of
alterations, that have fince been made upon the buildings, it
mult be capable of containing double the number of inhabit*
tants. Formerly, the generality of houfes in Newburgh, werp
low built, and covered with thatch of ftraw, or of reeds*
Of late years, a better ftyle of architedure has prevailed ; and^
at this day, Newburgh has Ibme pretenfions to neatnefs, in
the ftrudure of its houfes. Sispty years ago, few of its houfea
concealed their rafters'. — At prefent, fcarcely any of them^
and none lately erefted, prefent that naked appearance. On
the fame fpot, where i % years ago a board was placed in the
window, to exclude the winter ftorm, may now be feen, a
Venetian blind, attached to the cafement, for blunting the
rays of the fummer fun. Within thefe 10 years, not fewer
than 30 houfes have been rebuilt, within the liberties of
Newburgh ; fome of which might be rented at 12I. and non6
for lefs than 5 1. per annum. Preparations are alfo making,
for rebuilding two or three more. The ftreet of Newburgh,
which has long been paved with ftoneiT^ having fallen into dif-
repair, the magiftrates and town council, lately, formed the
refolution of paving it a new ; and bjr means of afieiTments
from proprietors within the burgh, together with a fmall al-
lowance out of the ftatute labour, leviable upon the inhabi-
tants at large, they have made confiderable progtefs in the ex-

Z a ecntioi^

1 5o Statl/lical JccQunt

location of their defign. Some appearances, whicli would in*
jduce one to be of opinion^ that coal might be found in th«
grounds belonging ^o the towp, having alfo attraded the no-
tice of the magift rates and town council, they are at prefent
taking the proper fteps, for afipertaining the exiftence of that
ufcful mineral in their territory ; and it is to be prefumed*
(hat the liberality of the neighbourhood wi)l enable them to
fnake the moft fatisfaclory invcdigatiop. Various other
tneafures have of late been purfijed by them, and by indivi-
dulils in the place, which fhew, that the fpirit of improve-
ment, long dormant, fias awoke, and become adive in New-
burgh, as well as in many other burghs in Scotland.

MjanufaEi^ures and Qommcrce — XiU within thefe few years,
a great proportion of the inhabitants of Newburgh, whatevei:
other trades they might ezercife, were a kind of hu{bandmen«
^ut moCt of the fmall portions of land, which they formerly
held, and which they generally cultivated with their ow^i
)iands, having been purchafed of late by the proprietor of
Mugdrum, and laid out in large parcels, they are now at-
tached more to particular callings. The trade which occu-.
pies the greateft number of hands, is that of weaving clotli.
No fewer than 279 of the inhabitants, are at prefent employ- ^
cd in it. Ihe weavers of Newburgh, however, do not yet
abide conftantly by the loom. Accuftomed from their early
years, to handle the oar, as well as the {buttle, ^hey betake
themfelyes, in conCderable numbers, to a fea-faring life, when
the price of thefe kinds of cloth, which they are in the prac-
tice of weaving, falls low in the market. While they conti-
nue nt the loom, they do not, in general, arrange themfelves
under different maflers, who might furnifli them with materials,
and pay them for their work. Some of them do indeed follow
ihat method , and work-flbops may be met with, in which

near

•f Newburgb. lt\

jaear a dozen of looms are employed by one manofaftarer^
But the greater part of them weave ^their own yam, and
bring their own webs to fale. The webs/ which they com*
monly weave, are of three kinds, termed by the workmen,
Silefias^ Ofnaburghs^ and Brown Limns* For fuch cloths, ther^
is, generally, a good, and at prefent, 8 very great denund ia
London and Leeds. The weavers, in Newburgh, however,
have little direft intercourfe ivith either of thefe places.
They generally difpofe of their webs, at Newburgh, to a few
€^i their own number, who again difpofe of tbem at Perth|
Dundee, Cupar, Auchtermuchty, and Glafgow, to perfons
there, who purchafe them, either with their own capital, or
upon commiffion, for the Englifh markets. Not more than
two of them tranfa& bpfinefs immediately with London. Be-
fides weavers, Newburgh contains its full proportion of fliop-
keepers, inn-keepers, fmiths, mafons, carpenters, ihoemakera,
tailors, butchers, bakers, fifhermen, and feamen. Scarcely
any 6f its inhabitants find themfelves placed beyond the ne*
ceffity of employing themfelves in manual labour; although
few or none of them are engaged in manufa&uring any materi-
als for exportation, except the linen cloths already mention^t
and barley into malt. Of the latter, they fend to Edinburgh
market, in the courfe of one (eafon, about i8oq bolls* 1 ill
of late years, a great proportion of bread, beer, and butcher's
meat, confumed in Newburgh, was. brought from Perth,
Dundee, and the Carfe of Gowrie ; but the bakers, brewers,
and butchers, are exerting themfelves in their refpedive oc-
cupations, and they bid fair for fecuring, in future, the cuf-
tom of the generality of the inhabitants. Formerly, few peo-
ple reforted from any diftance to Newburgh, for merchant
goods ; and the retail trade in it was liipited to a few articles,
in the hard-ware and grocery lines, purchafed commonly by
|he dealers at Perth, or at Dundee. But within thefe few

years.

1 8 1 StAti/lical Account

jtasSf feveral ikops have been opened, upon a more extenfivt
Icale ; and there is reafon to believe, that the demands of the
town and neighbourhood, will furni(b the keepers of then)
frith employment. Still, however, no trader has as yet ap-
peared in Newburgh, whofe extenfive tranfaftions in com-
SEicrcCy would entitle him to the name and character of a mer-.
phant f though perhaps the time is not far diftant, when maov
iriil be found here of that refpe^able defcription,

Sbore.-^A few yards northward from the town, and^nearlyt
fU>nneSed with it by buildings, although beyond the limits of
its jnrifdidion, lies the ihore of Newburgh ; which conflfts
of three continuous piers, projeding into the fouth deep of
the river Tay, with feveral dwelling houfes, ftore-houfes,
and other conveniencies for commerce. Thefe piers form
very £afe ftatioos, for the veflelt employed in the trade on the
fiver i and although none of any burden can properly be fai4
to belong to Newburgh, and b^t few are freighted to it, ex«
cept with coals or lime, they are feldom to be feen without
Ihips, as the generality of veflels, bound for Perth, mud wai|[
at Newburgh the flow of the tide ; and not a few of them»
muft unload part of their cargoes there, before they can, even
with the tide, proceed farther up the river. Hence arifes a
good deal, if not of trade, at leait of ilir, at the ihore of New-
burgh, which proves qf advantage to the place at large. The
fmacks employed in the falmon trade, alfo, lie to there, at all
feafons, and take in all kinds of goods for London market*
A trade in wood and iron, is likewife carried on at the fliore,
by a dealer, who refides upon the fpot, and who has obtained
ft pretty extenfive iale. A tannage is likewife forming, there,
which will revive a trade, that was carried on at Newburgh,
hi the end of the laft century. Formerly, great quantities of
Y)Brnt lime-done, brought by land carriage, from^ tb^ inland

parts

tfiJewhurgh. »lj

[arts of Fife, were fliipped at the fliore of Newburgh, txA
fold to the farmers in the Carfe of Oowrie, for manure. Bat
the lime works ei'c£led on the Frith of Forth, and oo the
Englilh coaft, from which the farmers, in the eaft end of
Stratheam, and in the Carfe of Gowrie, are more readily and
more cheaply fuppKed, have nearly put an end to that fpeciet
of traffic. For feveral years pail, great quantities of wheat
and barley^ purchafed from the farmers in the neighbourhood^
hare been fliipped at the fliore of Netrburgh, chiefly for the
£dinburgh and Glafgow markets. This trade feems likely
to continue ; and while it brings advantage to Newburgh^
moft operate to the benefit of th^ country at large. Or tha
north fide of Fife, more grain is cultivated, than can be con«
fumed by the inhabitants. Formerly, a market was, wil^
difficulty, found for the furplus ; but, by the connexion eQab«*
lifliing between Fife and the fouth country, this difficarlt^
will be removed, and a new fpur given to the farther cukiva*
tio« of a diflrift lately much improved^ but capable of being
rendered greatly more productive.

I
Fflrf»j.— There are only 4 farms in this parifli, the remain^

ing lands, which are not extenfive, either continuing in the

pofleflion of the proprietors themfelves, or being divided into

inconfiderable portions among a variety of feuars, tenants^

burghal heritors, and other fmall proprietors. Of thefe farms^

kowever^ it may be with truth, afiirmed, that they are at pre-

fent, in as good a flate of cultivation, as any in the neigh*

bourhood. Few farms, in the whole extent of the Ochil

Hills, to the weftward, have been more judicioufly laid out^

than two of them, which occupy the eftate of Pitcairly y and

no farm in the Carfe of Gowrie can be kept in higher order,

or rendered more productive, than the one which is connefted

with the Abbey of Lindores, The fourth farm, although*

formed

184

Statijitcdl Jccduifi

formed but of late, chiefly out of fmail purchafes frdm the
burghal heritors of Ncwbnrgh, bears evident marks of im-
provement.

Rentf Proprietors^ %Sc* — ^The "Valued rent of the parifli
amoants onlj to 19^8 L 17 s 6 d« Scotch. Its real rent may not
mtprefent be great ; but, en the expiration of fomeleafes, itmuft
rife confiderabljr, as land, in the lower grounds, on the eaft of
Newburgh, lets, at from z L to 3 1. /^r acre ; and, in the higher
grounds, at from 10 s to 2 1. per acre. The territory of the
parifli is divided among two greater, and about 30 fmallet
proprietors, called here, as well as in. other parts of the coun«
try, portionersi The two greater, and mod of the fmallet
proprietors, ufaally refide in it. Befides the four farmers^
already mentioned, there are few tenauts in the pariihf who
do not refide in the town, or at the (hore of Newburgh ; anct
their number^is not great, nor their portions of land extenlive.
The four greater farmers pay of rent above 5O 1. per annutd
each ; the other tenants pay much below that funn.

Crops, — The principal crops in this pari(h are eats, barley,'
wheat, beans, and a mixture of beans and peafe. Notwith-
iianding the richnefs of the foil in the lower grounds, it is not
long fince wheat made a crop there in rotation. Of late years,
wheat has been fown, not only in the lower grounds, but al-
fo in the hilly parts of the parifh. As turnips are not found
a profitable crop in clay lands, they are not cultivated in the
lands attached to the Abbey of Lindores. Any trials made
to faife them in the higher grounds, have fucceed^d. But it
is matter of regret, that farmers, in this part of the Country/
fliew fome backwardnefs^ in extending a fpecies of Crop, which,
when properly conduced, not only meliorates the land, and gives
it frelh life and vigour, but alfo furniOiesa delicate and nourifh*

» ing

of Ntwhurgb. \ 85

log food, either for feeding young catde, and raifing them to
a greater fize, or fattening the old, and bringing them to a
better market* Clover and xje grais are generally fown with
the barlej ; and, after a crop of grafs has been taken for one
year, the ground is again broke up for oats. Wheat is fown
after fallow or after pulfe, but commonly after fallow. Ma^
nure is laid pn the fallow, or when the land is undergoing
preparation for a peafe crop. When the feafon will admit,
beans, or a mixture of beans and peafe, are fown upon the
manure, and plowed in. Wheat is not fown fo early as for-
merly, even upon fallow. Farmers are of opinion, that very
early fowing feldom produces the largeft head, or the heavieft
grain of wheat* Oats are fown from the beginning' of March
to the end of April, and the iecd, generally made ufe of, is a
fpecies of oats termed Grange-bothrey, from a farm of that
name, in the county of Afigus. Barley is fown in the end
of April, and through the whole of May. Moft of the feed
em^oyed is a mixture of different kinds, originally imported
from England. Though the lands, being under better cul-
ture than formerly, yield greater quantities of barley, it is re-
marked, that its quality feems not to be equal. Whether this
be oiwing to the frequent fowing of wheat, or to the intro-
dnfiton of lime, as a manure, experience has not yet enabled
the fanner to determine. The quantity of grain, raifed in
this pariih, is by no. means equal to the maintenance of its in- '
habitants ; but the deficiency is abundantly made up by the
neighbourhood.

Population^ ^r.-rFrom the report of ope, who, during the
indifpofition of the writer, was employed to afcertain the
number of the pariihioners, it appears, that the parifb, at
large, contains 1664 fouls, of whom 2552 belong to the town,
fuburbs, and fhore of Newburgh, and z la to the country part

Vol. VIII. A a ; : of

i86

Stattftical Account

of the parifli. The inhabitants of the town, fuburbs and fhore,
confift of 772 males, and 780 females. Of the inhabitants in
the country, 64 are males, and 48 females. The return to
Dr. Wcbftcr, in 1755, amounting onljto 1347, it is evident,
that there has been an increafe, fince that time, of 317 fouls.
Owing to the manner, in which the publication of marriage
banns is generally regiftered in Scotland, an accurate account
of the marriages, that take place in any particular pari(h, can-
not always be obtained. But the records of this parilh, fup->
ply the following account of births and deaths, for the laft fix
years, which there is tvttj reafon to believe, may be depend-
ed on.

VIABLE of Births^ Deaths^ Mc

Ycari.

Birth*.

Deatht.

esof

pafoni who died. |

0.0

0 0

Jga

e«

•0

^<jtf

0 0

►*. «

•0

1-00

1786

X4X»
34*4

1787

1788 1 '6

343*

»3

I789'L!36

1790

1791

1 i

»3

^ ofNewburgb. 187

Ecclefiaflical State. — There are three clergymen in the
pariih of Newburgh ; the miniller of the cftabliflied church,
of the Burgher Seceders, and of the Congregational Society,
befides feVeral others, who, without taking the name of cler-
gymen, teach and exhort, under the denomination of Ana-
baptiAs, and Unitarians. The Congregational Society is fmalL
The Burgher Seceders may exceed one third of the whole
inhabitants of the pariih. In point of numbers, the Anabap-;
tills and Unitarians fcarcely deferve the name of focieties.
The Unitarians do not exceed four ; and the Anabaptifls are
not double that number* The Anabaptifls are conne£led with
a church of the fame defcription, at Dundee. It may be pre-
fumed, that the Unitarians have eilabliihed more diftant con-
nexions* There are alfo, in the pari(h^ feveral families who
belong to the congregation of Antiburgher Seceders at Aber-
nethy. The Antiburgher SecefEon, is of long (landing in the
parifli. But the Burgher SecefHon fprung up in it, on the ad-
mifGon of the prefent incumbent, into the Eftablifhed Church,
The town of Newburgh, alfo, contains a few Independents,
and one or two profcffors of the Epifcopal religion, but no Ro-
man Catholics. Befides thefe various denominations of Chrif-
tians, not a few perfons refide within the bounds of this pa-
riih, who hold communion with no religious fociety, and fel«
dom join in any public a&s of religious worfliip. A friend
to principles of toleration, and an advocate for liberty of con-
fcience, rejoices in obferving men of different views and
opinions, on fubjeds of religion, living together in the exer-
cife of mutual charity^ and tranfa&ing peaceably with one
another, the bufinefs of civil life. — Thefe are happy times.
Even among the common people, perfecution for the fake of
coofcitnce begins to be regarded with horror -, and the bigot
ihould in vain attempt to inflame them with violence, againft
perfons of fentiments, the moil oppolite to thofe which they

A a ^ have

i88 Statifiical Account

iiztt embraced. At the fame timei cfuividion of the impor*
tance of religion, to the prefent comfort, and future happinefs
of mankind, muft produce the deeped regret in the minds of
thofe, who are called to witnefs liberty of confcience made a
pretence for negleSing duties, which the beft, in all ages,
have ever held (acred.

Lord Vifcount Stormont, and Mr. Haj of Mtlgdmm, are
▼ice-patrons of the parifli. The ftipend confifts of 31 bolls,
!i pecks of oats \ 65 bolk a firlots of bear ; 37 bolls a pecks
of meal, (a bolls a pecks of the oats, and the fame quantity
of the bear being converted to^the town, at 20 L Scotch,) and
22 L Scotch in money, with a manfe, and a glebe of 4 acres.
The pariih church is an old Popifli chapel,, fituated within the
town of Newburglff which, in confequence of a late thorough
repair, haf been made a very convenient phu» of worihip.
The manfe is a new building, erefted fince the admii&on of
the prefent incumbent, on a moft delightful fpot, beyond the
town of Newburgh, to the eaftward, in full view of the river

Tay, and Carfe of Gowric.

5cioo/i.— There are two fchools in the parifli, and one
teacher in each fchool. The fchool, taught by the pariih
fchoolmafter, is attended by 60 fcholars, of whom 8 are
taught Latin, la writing and arithmetic, and 30 Eoglifli.
The other fchool, which is private, and taught by a Seceder, is
attended by 55 fcholars, of whom 3 are taught Latin, 11
writing and arithmetic, and 31 Engliih. During the winter
feafon, both fchools are reforted to, after the ordinary hours of
labour, by a coniiderable number of grown up perfons, for
the purpofe of learning Engliih, writing, arithmetic, book-
keeping, and navigation. Of late years, the advantages of
education, have been fully perceived by parents, and are
eagerly fought for their children. Tlicre is one licenfed

preacher

rf Newburgb. 189

preacber belonging to tlie parifli, lod three jonng men from
the town of Newfafurgh, have either juft finiihed, or are at
prefent, profecuting the ftudj of pb jfic, in the uaiverfitj of
Edinburgh.

Poor*— There are no poor on the funds, who refide in the
country part of the parilh. The number of pobf on the
pariih roll in the town, is confiderabk. They are maintain*
cd by the intereft of accumulated fums of money, feu-duties
of a fuperiority in lands purchafed for their behoof, cdlec-
tions at the church door, and other cafnahies. Befides the
money given in monthly peafions, confiderable fums are dif-
tributed eccafionally, to perfona in ftraitened circumftances,
vho receive no ftated fupplies ; and the education of about 8
children, is ufually paid for.

Charader and Manners of the fiople.^n a provincial
town, inhabited chiefly by failors and weavers, polTefled of
fmall properties, and nearly on a level with refpeft to riches,
one does not look for poliflied manners, and the courtly at-
tentions praftifed in great cities. Till of late years, the inha*
bitants of Newburgh were remarkable for their rufticity, and
for the freedom with which they treated their fuperiors.
'* We will let the heft Lord of the land ken, that when he
** fets hb foot on Newburgh caufeway, he is Bailie Lyell'a
'* vaflal,*' was the boaftful language in which they exprefled
their emancipation from feudal tyranny, and their enjoyment
of political freedom. The prefent inhabitants retain the fenfe
of independence, imbibed and cheriflied by their anceftors ;
but having (bared in the effeds of that civilization, which has
recently produced fo great a change on the manners of the
nation at large, they are ftudious of difplaying it with mode-
ration and courtefy. They mingle with their neighbours m

the

J 90 Statl/iical Account

the tranfafitions of commercial intercoarfe ; and they gradual^
1 7 ai&milads to the general charafter of their countrymen.
The bulk of the inhabitants undoubtedly merit the praife of
fobriety and induftry ; and inftances of perfons are not want-
ing, who, by (ignal propriety, in their own deportment, fur-
niih a daily rebuke to the unprincipled and idle ; and, by fu-
perior attention to the education of their children, take the
fureft method of producing a thorough reformation on the
manners of the people. No perfon belonging to the parifli of
Newburgh, has fuffered the puniihment of death for any
crime, within the period to which its records extend. In times
of peace, Perth receives its moft expert lailors from this dif*-
tri£b ; whilft, in time of war, Newburgh fupplies the Navy
of Great Britain, with fteady, well behaved, and gallant
men*

Advantages and Difadvantages.^~Tht parifli, and in parti-
cular, the town of Newburgh, labours under feveral difad van-
tages. The country near it, on the fouth, is hilly, thinly in-
habited, and badly provided with roads. Trade being al-
ready eftabliflied at Perth and at Dundee, militates againft
its fpeedy acquiiition of commercial confequence. The ap^
pointment too, of magiftrates in Newburgh, witliout a reve-
nue adequate to the fupport of their authority, maybe reckon-
ed unfavourable to it. When perfons in power are dependent,
regulations of police may be formed, but will feldom be exe-
cuted. In every town, men are to be found of weight fuf-
iicient to thwart thofe fchemes of improvement, which muft
be profecuted at the perfonal expenceof the projedors. But,
notwithftanding thefe obvious obftacles, no fpot on the whole
north fide of Fife, feems better calculated for preparing va-
rious kinds of manufa&ura for fale, and for fupplying part
of three counties, with foreign articles of confumption. It

5 lies

of Newhurgb. 191

lies open to the moft difiant markets^ has convenient ftations
for Slipping, and admits veiTels of coniiderable burden. The
fertile diftrift of the Carfc of Gowrie, is at no great didance,
on the north ; and a well cultivated country approacheis on
the E. and W. There, a malting concern, of great "extent,
might be eftabliihed ; and, in the immediate neighbourhood,
might be found no inconvenient fitnation, for anj work re-
quiring a command of water, while Newburgh ipight furnifh
plenty of hands for carrying on the operations of the manu-
fafturer ; as there are hundreds in it already trained to the
loom, who only want a fpirited merchant, with an adequate
capital, to direA their induftry into a lucrative channeL The
time cannot be far diftant, when thefe obvious advantages
will be feized, in an age of fuch commercial enterprife ; and
then the town of Newburgh, long poor, though independent,
will become difiinguiihed for the wealt}), the induftry, and
the number of its inhabitants, and better entitled to the atten-
tion of the philofopher and the ftafefman. ^

192 Statical Account

NUMBER XL
TOWN AND PARISH OF DUNDEE.

(jCoufUy ofTorfar^i-^^reJhytery of Dundee. — Synod of Angus
and Meams^

By the Rev. Robert Small, D. D. one of tie Mini/ters of
that City.

Origin of the Name.

THE flkodera name of the pariih is Dundee, from the
large town fituated in it. This name, formerlj, and
even fo late as the beginning of the prefent century, was ge-
nerally fpelled Dondi or Dondie ; and in Queen Mary's charter
Dondeif in law-Latin it is Deidonum ; and it has been affirmed
by various Highlanders, that they confider it as fignifying,
what this Latin imports, the Gift, or otherwife, the Hill of
God. Thefe circumftances give probability to the tradition,
that it obtained the name, about the middle of the X2th cen-
tury, from- David Earl of Huntingdon, who landing here, af-
ter a dreadful ftorm in his return from the holy wars, defign-
ed by it to exprefs his gratitude for his deliverance ; and, in
confequence of a vow, built the prefent parifh church. Had
the fignlfication been the hill of Tay, as Taodunum^ according
to Buchanan, it would in Gaelic have been pronounced
Buntaw. The ancient name was Alec^ in Boece*s Latip,

jUeSum

€f Dundee. 1 93

jUiSfum^ and hj this it is diftinguifhed in the highlands.
The ilgnification of Alee is faid to be pleafant or beaafifuL
The language fpoken by the inhabitants, has, from time im-
mcmorial, been the broad Scotch ; that is Englifh or Saxon,
tvith a peculiar provincial accent. The namce ot places in
the parifli are partly in this language, and partly G :eHc. Of
the forntjer kind are Blaeknefs^ Coldjicie^ Clepingtovm and Clay'*
fots, Balgay^ Dudbope^ Drumgeiib^ Duntroan, BaldovU^ and
Tarious others are examples of the latter.

Situation^ Extent^ Mc. — ^The parifli of Dundee is fitnated
in the county of Angus, now calle'd, in writings, Forfarfliire,
from the county town. The length from W. to E. is about
6 miles, but its breadth is various ; for, towards the weft end,
it is nearly two miles, towards the middle, where the town
ftands, not more than one, and towards the eaft end, between
tiiree and four *. The territory of the parifli belongs to a

Vol. VIII. B b great

. * As there » xio nap of the partfliy it u hardly poffible to commvoictte aa
intdllgible defcription of its form. The ridge of mountuos, which runs from
Perth to the eaft promontory of Angus, called the Red Head, feparating be*
tween this country and Strathmore, is well known, being a continuation of the
Ochll Hiils; and in the parts where it approaches nearefl to the pa<i(h of Dun*
dee, it is named the Siedlaw Hills, and Lorn's HilL While thepe m^ untainy
roa along the Carfe of Gowrie, no new range rifes between them aud the Tay,
9nd there the country is flat, and almoft level; but, where the Carfe temiinatea
sear Millfield, a new range rifes of lower hills, running from Balgay H.ll oa
the weft, to the Rnock-Hilli near Arbroath on the eaft, where it forms the fouth
boundary of a fort of vale or ftrach, contained between them artd the ridge oi
Siedlaw and Lorn, &c. on the north. In this vale, no llngle great river runs,
but it IS watered bv feveral (Ireams, which defcend from the northern ridge»
ftod, after traverfing various parts of the vale, make their way through the low*
cr range into the * ay. On part of this lower range of hills, and chiefly on
$heir fouthem expofure, the parifli of Dundee is fituated ; towards the eaft end
U ia interfered by Dighty and Piethy, the principal of all the ftf cams which

194 Stati/iical Account

great rariety of proprietors. The valued rent of the whole
is, 7874 1* 3 s. a d. Scotch. The real rent abfira6ling from
the houfes and gardens in the town, is probably between
89OOO ]. and 9,000 !• Sterling* The number of Scottifli acrest
under culture, is about 3,400, and in plantation, about 300.
The principal eilates in the parifli are tbofe of Dudhope, with
the other lands belonging to Lord Douglas, Craigie, Drum-
geitb, Baldovie, Pitkerro, Duntroon, Glepingtown, Wallace*
Blacknefs, Upper Dudhope, Logie, and Balgay. None of
thefe except the Duntroon and Douglas eftates, have been
above 100 years in pofleffion of the family of its prefent pro-
prietors. In moft of the others, the property has been fluc-
tuating ; and, the average term of pofTef&on is rated fuffici*
ently high at 20 years. Logie, Blacknefs, and Balgay, are
iaid to be in the pariQi, only quoad facrcu

Situatitm of the Town — ^From the fouth fide of Balgay Hill,
a fmall dream fprings, which, running eaftward, is joined by
another on the weft fide of the Law ; and both together conti-
nue their courfe fouth eafl, through a narrow low ground,

tiU,

ros from the higher ridge t and on the northi and alfo parti/ on the eaft, ano-
ther of thenit the Bum of Murroet, is the boundary which Teparates it from
Murroet, and Moneyfieth. The parifli however, is not monnuinous, for the
Law of Dundee, the highefl hill in the whole range, is only $^5 feet above the
level of the Tay« Balgay Hill, to the weft of the Law, it confiderably lower %
and the ground of Craigie, to the eaft of it, excepting at one point* is a gently
rifiog bank. The appearance of the country is beautiful, particularly the fouth
ilope of all the grounds towards the Tay, the fouth flope of Duntroon HiO to*
Wards Fiethy, and the bottom where Dighty and Fiethy meet, and where they
are foon after joined by the Burn of Murroes.. Balgay Hill, befides its beautiful
form, is covered with a thriving pUntation of various trees ; and the Law of
Dundee, rifing gently from fome low grounds behind the town, is cultivated
through its whole afcent, till at laft it ihoott into a round, green, and uncom*
Aonly pleafing fammit* .

of Dundee. tg^

cill, after dividing the town of Dandee, nearly in the middle,
ikitj fall into the Tay. Another fmall ftream, called Wallace
Burn, rifes on the north of the Law, and running eaft» and
then fouth, falls into the Tay at the eaft end of the royalty^
and at the difiance of a quarter of a mile from the mouth of
the former. Between thefe two, on the fea-fhore, and on a'
low flat ground, the ancient town of Dundee is faid to have
been fituated. It feems to have confided of two parallel
ftreets, the Seagate, and on the north of it the Cowgate. In
the broadeft part of the Seagate, remains of the ancient crofs
were fome years ago to be feen ; and, by marks in the prefent
caufeway, its fituation is (till diftinguilhed. Weft from the
mouth of the firft ftream, the ground rifes into rocks, which
are from 5c to 90 feet above the level of the Tay. On one
ef thefe, the ancient caftle ftood, and on the grounds lying
among them, and declining towards the eaft and fouth from
them, the more modern and largeft part of the town b fituat«
ed. When the great church was built by David Earl of
Huntingdon, a great part of the grounds was probably in %
ftate of cultivation, and the ordinary defignation of the church
was for a long time the Kirk in the Jield. From thefe rocks,
the ground continues to rife all the way weft to Balgay-Hill,
and forms a fort of ridge, bounded on the fouth by the Tay,
and on the north by the Balgay ftream. The yalley, where
the ftream runs, is exceedingly beautiful \ and few fituations
can be conceived more delightful, than thofe of the caftle of Dud-
hope, and the houfe of Logie to the north of the valley; of the
houfe of Balgay, at its weftem extremity ; or of Blacknels on the
ridge on the fouth of it. On this ridge, the late additions to
the town have chiefly been built, and they extend along the
fummit, and on both fides of it, near to Blackne fs itfelf.
Other confiderable additions have, however, been alfo mad«
ia other quarters, particularly at die eaft end of the royalty,

B b a beyond

I (}6 r.'^/y yu^l Acc7a\ t

beyorrl r!ii» 'r>«r j'-ann'^, on rhe north ct it. aod <ai die
of 'h^ anr #nr r.h«.rS icdr»«A by rise name a^ u« Bmamtt^
htll T e pr,int *>f rhe principal p«cr ;a die lurbci;r» is ia
j6^, 1'', 13'', of iati'ode, and i« 3** V* c j*.cf LagTOidtr, weft,
/rr/m CH4'Tvw)cb, or in time 11^, ii^ TIk Uritade maj be
C^>r.Cd«'red ai ac^'urate, bein); the refalt <»f a great Tarietj oE
oUertratfOii9 owule wah a good Hadley's Qaadranr, both in
the meridian and oiLer circUi of altitode, at a place judged
to \*t in the fame parallel with the point now mentioned ; bat
the conduilon for the longitode, is calculated only from a fev
luoir eclipfcfi and bj geoditical dedudions from the meridian
ol Ilawk^Hill near Edinburgh.

Xoji/.«-In a parifii fo extcnfive, there mud be a confider«

able vnricf J of foil. Little of it, however, is naturally ricb«

Tha rifing gioundi m particular, iivhich runs weft from the

town towards lilacknefc, was originallj thin and poor, with a

gravelly bottom, and the fuiface was covered, probably, for a

IvH^ li«n«« with heath. About Blacknefs, the foil continues

t^ually ihini and the bottom is of tilL But, to the north of

^ 4xki^iV, particularly on the eaft end of the Hill of Balgay*

l^< tk'U IS ikeper^ and confitU of a rich black earth Except

sJW^t the okl cat k of Dudhope, and on the low grounds behind

vht %^>Ka at DaiKlee^ the foil of the Liw is pocMr, with a bot«

.Nttt x*^ ;«IU Tlte g^t^und to the caflwmid of the Law» thcogh

Xx*%{«^v .X «<>( ^^en^aikAbly rich i a goi^ partcf Cr^s^^k, wak&

o ^ait>^ ^^ t>e V<A of it, was moor not jO rears «gcs and t&e

v»o^ .n ;^ |5*r^4«\ tiiK To the eaftvrard of CrA}$>e» tbe fia4

I - wmt ^ *tiH^ <vl the lVu|;la$ eiUte, becomes bc:ccr, mk is*

- xv^ t!^ vKx^ The bcA land is in the bc<to«v» w>ent \k^

* «^ ^ vM>Y antt^ It mdttdes part c^* Bakorse on DmaK

o * '» tv «anie^ a>a be a <depo£t&om t%eie r«t» vna?^. Tie

^^^^ .«. ' oMos^ WaM on dn«e ides ^j Fs^z* j. Dj^.^

4BU.

9f Dundee. 197

and the Bum of Murroes, confifts of a foil good and drf^
though rather thin, and the fouth bank of Duntroon is altb
fertile. The worfl lund lies to the ncrth of the hills of Bal-
gaj, Duntroon, and the Law But the neighbourhood of
this large town Teems to place all thcfe varieties of foil upoa
a level. They are, in general, in a ftate of high cultivation,
and produce valuable crops. Inftead of large pieces of moor,
which, within the laft 30 years, were to be found every
where, th^rc is hardly to be feen a fingle fpot. All is culture
or plantation, except a few acres of common, and very little
lies wafte through neglefl.

Cultivation. — ^The number of people, wbo have farms, is
31 or 3a. But of farmers, properly fo called, and wbo make
farming their only bufinels, there are not more than 15* Thp
praftice of one of the moll induilrious and inteHigent, is a#
follows* He rents 130 acres at 40s. per acre: he keeps
conflantly 7 fervants, and 8 horfes ; he employs in fpring
3 ploughs, each wrought by 1 hoifes, and in winter, %
ploughs wrought by 4 ; and he ufes 4 carts, whofe dimen-
fions are 8 feet by 4. His land is laid out in 7 divifions cul-
tivated in this rotation ; I fallow, % wheat, 3. potatoes and
turnips horfe-hoed, 4. barley, 5. oars, with grafs feeds, 6. grafs,
chiefly fold green, and cut and carritd off by the buyers, 7.
grafb cut for hay. In this rotation, the whole manure is
given to the wheat, and the fjftem fetms to be approved of
by his neighbours, and generally adopted. He begins to four
wheat in heptember, oats in March, barley in April, turnips
from the loth to the middle of June; and his cxDps of giain
are generally reaped in September, The reap. u^ is uh^-lly
performed by the fickle, and all the kinds of giain arc bujnd
infheaves, and, while on the field, fet up in iboiks. Aw acre
of good turnips fells from 7 1. to 10 L, according to the diiluuep

froni

19$ Statifiical Actount

irom tlie town. The buyer takes them up and carries them
oSr the grounds, and none are fed off in the field* The pota-
toes are chiefly planted by Dundee manufacturers, who alfa
clean them with hand hoes, and take them up, The farmer
puts the ground in proper order for receiving them, and
draws from 4 1. to 61. the acre. This prafbice is attended
vith the beft efiefts, to the health and more eafy fubfiftence
ef the manufacturer and his family ; and to the farmer ia
clearing his land from weeds, which it does moreeffedually than
any other method. An acre of good grafs, for green feeding,
like the turnip, draws from 7 1. to 10 1. and even 12 1. The
plough generally ufcd is the improved Scotch one, though Small^s
plough begins alfo to be introduced. No threfhing machines
liavc hitherto been employed, though there are many in vari-
ous parts of the neighbouring country, and though one kind
of them is fpoken of with approbation. Probably the reafcn is,
that we have no farms fo large as to make them necefiary, or
to pay fuflRciently for the original expence. The corns, when
through t olF the field, are all flacked in the barn-yard, and gew
aerally raifed about 3 feet above the ground, on wooden
frames fupported by ftone pillars. Fanners have been, for si
long time, the only inftruments employed in winnowing.
The principal manures, in addition to what every farm fup-
plies, are dung from Dundee, and lime, chiefly from Sunder-
land. No fervices are in this pariih exaded from the far-
mers ; and this opprefTive cuftom, though flill fubfifting in
Ibme other parts of Angus-ihire, Is here happily abolilhed.

Cattle. — ^Thc greatefl part of the parifli is inclofed with
licdges and ftone fences, but, except in fome parts diftant fronii
the town, the inclofures are feldom ufed for paflure. The
cattle of all kinds are good, but the parifh is not remarkable
for any peculiar breed. The farmers breed fome borfes, but

of Dundee. 199

t>y no means in number fafficient for the demands of the neigh*
bourhood, or for their own labour. Ti)e market in Dundee*
for all kinds of butcher meat, is one of the beft in Scotland*.
No (beep are bred, or even fattened for fale, except a few b/
Mr. Guthrie of Craigie. He has tried in his inclofures the
large fouth country breed, and endeavoured to introduce that
of Mr. Bakewell, with tolerable fuccefs. The birds aad qua-*
drupeds, wbich are not domefticated, are the fame that it^
quent the other low country parilhes near the fea, and feem to
require no particular enumeration. No part of the pariifa is
fubjeA to inundations, except the bottom where Fiethj and
Dightj join ; but no confiderable damage is done, either to
the grounds, or to the crops upon them ; aod though the
cquinoftial tides fometimes rife high, they have not, in any
perfon's memory, been hurtfuL

Climate and Difeafes.-^'tJo part of the parilh can be called
unhealthy* The higher and weft part of the town of Dun*
dee, and the whole ridge, on which the priucipal additions ta
it have been built, is naturally as healthy a fituation, (from its
gravelly bottom, the conftant current of the tides, and its ex«
pofure to the S. W. winds,) as, perhaps, any in the world. E-
ven the fuburbs to the N* £. though on a bottom of till, are
bealthy, for the declivity of the fituation prevents all ftagaa-*
tion of water. The low grounds behind the town are, in-
deed,

* The veal, in particular, has of Ute years become excellent, in confeqnence
«f an improvement introduced, by a gentleman in the neighbourhood, in the
management of the calves. Inftead of confining them in low, dirty, and opca
ftalls, they are placed in boxes nifed fome feet above the groofid, by which.
means they are more eafily kept dean, warm, and dry, and care is alio takea
by giving a cover to every box, to exclude the light. In confequence of thefe
and fome other attentions, the veal equals, if not exccUs, the beil produced is
Zngland.

lOo Stati/ltcd Account

deed, hitherto, but infufficientlj drained, and the honfes to
the fouth, which border on them, e^thibit fome inconfiderable
marks of dampneis. But the principal caufes of unhealthi*
Befs in Dundee, are the height of the houfes, the narrownefs
of the tenements and of fome ftreets, bj which the people
urere too much crowded upon one another* The bounds of
the rojaltj were too confined for the increafing number of the
inhabitants, and it was only within the laft 30 years, that
thej began to extend their l^uildings beyond its limits. But
with all thefe defe&s, Dundee may be confidered as a very
healthy place; the fmall-pox, indeed, is often epidemical
«id fatal, for inoculation is, hitherto, but imperfedly intro-
duced; but fevers are feldom infediojus, and agues almoft
unknown. The crowded places of the town, indeed, are un«
favourable to children, but probably not more fo than other
crowded places ; and as one evidence of its healthinefe, it may
be mentioned, that in a diftrid containing 1800 inhabitants^
only two perfons, in the fummer of 1789, were found confin-
ed to bed. Lefs rain falls here than at Perth, for, by the
Carfe and Siedlaw hills to the north, and the Fi£e hills to the
fouth, the clouds are attrafted, and frequently carried away
from this town and neighbourhood *• The village, of the Fer«
ryf in particular, at the eaft end of the parifh, near Broughty
(Taftle, is uncommonly dry and wholefome, and, perhaps, bet*
ter fitted for fea-bathing, than any other place on the eaft
eoafl. of Scotland. The mod frequent endemial difeafes are con-
fumptions and the fcrophula, by which laft, perhaps, the for.
mer are principally produced. The fcrophula feems chiefly
to aSeft the families of linen-weavers, who fometimes feed
poorly, and whofe manufa&ure is carried on in damp and
low floors. We have no lake, or even pool of ftanding

water

* No tnuUtion or hiiloiy fpeaks of any damage done in Dundee by tbondeft
and probably the fitoatien and form of the Law ii onrfecarity, and enables it

rfDundei. lof

litAter^ eicept one, which is drj in fummer, «nd the declivity
•f the ground in all places^ fpecdilj carries off the rain«

foffls^ Springs^ ^r.— ti-Udlefs whin«{lone artd porphyry
fliaj be clafled among volcanic produdions, nothing of thii
kind has been difcovered. Thefe two, particularly the firft,
^ompofe the principal part of the hills and rifing grounds ia
the pariih. The porphyry Is chiefly on the lands of Balgay
mnd Blacknefs. Thtre are, howeyer, various quarries of
what We call free-ftone. This is much harder than the free-
ftone about Edinburgh, and is evidently ftratified. It i^ a
fand-flone, and foroetimes inclofes many pebbles, fuch as now
lie on all our IhoreSi and are rounded by the daihing of tho
Waters. From the quarries of this kind in the neighbourhood,
And efpecially along the coall, ftones for building in the town
are often taken. But the beft quarry, and what builders princi-
pally employ, is that of Kingoodie on the edate of Mill-field,
io the pariih of Forgan ; and lighters bring the ftone imme-
diately from the quarry. Though compofed of ooarfer par-

Vol. VIIL Cc ticks,

to ad, in Tome de^ee, at aii eledrlcal condii^ctf. We bare no water fpoutB,
«r whirlwinds and, excepting the meteor, which, fomc x«&tb ago, pafTed along
the whole ifland. no remarkable phenomena are remembered in the air. The
aurora borealis differs nothing from thofe in other placet of Scotland, and, ex-
cept during a fettled courfe of froft, it is genefallf followed by wind and mia
from the fouth. From a meteorological regifter, kept for fome years paft, by
Mr. Fairweather, a gentleman|Ln the neighbourhood of the town, it appears, that
tlie annual average of rain, which fell from January 1783^ to January 2794, ii
fti, la inches, or, abftradting from the uncommonly rainy year of 1789, ax, 23,
that the average height of FaranheitS thermometer, for the months of June,
July, and Auguft» at two o'clock afternoon, was f6r the fame years 63, 85, and
{or the months of December, January, and February, at 8 in the morning 34,
f 8. The houfe, where this regifter was ke|>t, is fituated in the fouth expofttr«|
•f die bask balow Blacknefs and about 40 feet iibovc the UygI of the Tay.

itct Statijlical Account

tides, and inca}mb1e of being fo fmoothlj polifiied as fb#
flone from fome other quarriest particular! j thofe of Craigie
and Invergourie, ic is much more durable, and in manj part^
of the great fteeple, built from it, in the i2th century, efpe-
ciall^ in the higher and more ezpofed parts, the marks of the
chiiTel are ft ill vifible. The colour is grej, inclining a little
to blue. Another fand*ftone of a rediQi colour and fofter
texture, ts^ found immediately iveft from the town, and at high
water generally covered by the tide ; but it is fo perilbable a»
to be Of little ufe. We have no figured flones, no petrifac-
tions, no limedone or marble, and no granite or other alpine
ftone, except a few loofe and detached pieces, which bear the
appearance of being rounded by water. A very fmall quan^
tity of grey flate is found in the free^ftone quarries on the
lands of Craigie ^ but it is nodiing different from the reft of
the quarry, except that it fplits into thinner ftrata* There
are no mines of any kind, nor any mineral fprings except
two, and thefe fo flightly tinged with iron, as hardly to de-
ferve the name. .Some exceUent fprings break out near the
town, at the bottom of the Law, one efpecially called the La-^
dy Welly whofe waters are conveyed in leaden pipes through
the diflPerent ftreets of the town, and fupply the greateft part
of it. The waters from moft of thefe, on boiling, leave %
ftony cruft on the veffels cihploycd for that purpofe any con-
fiderable time ; but we have no fprings which, with propriety,
can be called petrifying.

Codfl Tidesy 6r. — ^The Tay is between a and 3 miles broad,
where it bounds the parllh, and it extends nearly along its ut-
moft length. The adjacent coafi is generally high and rocky*
At the weft end, along the lands of Balgay, it is perpendicu-'
lar, and more than 40 feet high ; along thofe of Blacknefs it
falls lower; tiU| in approaching the town, it becomes a preci*

pice

^/Dundee.. ftoj

^Tce of *gravd, apt to be undermined by the fea« and en-
croached on by the wind. In all the traA of ground, weft
from the town, there are but one or two places where fmall
veflels can come to land. The harbour of^ Dundee lies to
the fonth of the rocks, on which the principal part of the
town is fituated $ and here the ground flopes to the water more
gently, and the harbour is capable of receiving veiTels of 300
tons. Eaftward from the flat ground, where the ancient part
of the town was bnilt, and along the eftate of Graigie, the
ihore again becomes rocky, but in feveral places fmall vef-
fels may come to land. Beyond this eftate, the coaft faHs low^
cr, excepting at one promontory called the Hare Craigs^ and
at the Ferry, near Broughty Caftle^ it becomes a flat links^ with
e fine gravelly beach, where larger veiTels nuiy fafely ap^
proach. In the tides there is no peculiarity. As the cun-
rent in the north fea flows fouth, we have high water about
half an hour fooner than at Leith, and at the harbour the fife
from low to high water is, in the higheft ftreams, about xB
or 10 feet. Some rocks lie off the harbour, but, excepting
4, which have buoys, or beacons, they rife above the furface
of the water. The current of the Tay, efpecially after land
floods, is rapid. Many fand banks lie to the eaftward be^
tween this harbour and Errol, and they are all on the north
fide of the river. The principal channel of the Tay is on the
Fife fliore, and it is only by this that veflels of any burdeli
can go up to Perth or Newbui^gh. "Continual incronchment's
are made by this river, on the low lands of the Carfe of Gow-
tie, and the Inch of Mugdruro, oppofite to Errol ; and th* foil
which is walbed away, comes down with the tide, and is de-
pofited all along our ihores, efpecially in the harbour. A
bafon, whieh they fliut at high water, and open when the tide
has left the harbour, was, for a long time, the only refource
for clearmg away ihe foil, which is thus depofited. The

C c d biXsA

a04 Statiftical Account

faftie method is Aill employed, bnt a more effefiuaT one h»f
latelj been adopted, of opening arched pafTageii in fome of the
piers. 'I hrougb thefe the current moves rapidly, and prevents
the foil from fettling ; and before this contrivance the harbour
was in danger of being filled up. To the eaft of the harbour,
all the way to Broughty Ciftle, there is an excellent road for
ihips of any burden, which can get within the bar, acrofs the
mouth of the river. This is about 8 miles below Dundee,
and as veiTels can hardly attempt to crofs it, in a fiorm, many
Shipwrecks happen on the coaft beyond it, when the ilorm is
from the ead, and the veBTels are found too near the fhore«
The principal fcene of thefe wrecks is St. Andrew's bay, and
the coaft of Angus between Barry and Arbroath. Even witb^
in the bar, and till the veiTels have paiTed Broughty Ciiftle, the
xoafls on both (ides ace dangerous, confifting of flat fands*

Rivir and Sea PrpduQiom — The frelh water ftreams of
pighty, Fiethy, and the Burn of Muroes, have trouts in them,
and Dighty has fome pikes, but no falmun; except at the en4
of the fifliing fe^fon, whep a few of what are c^Wt^ foul Jijb^
or iilt^ are caught, and no filh of almoin any other kind, ex^
eept fome fea trout, after i( leaves' the pa,riQi, to fall into the
l9j at Monyfieih. Though the T^y abounds in falmon,
there are but 4 or 5 filbings on all •ur extent of coaft \ npr dp
^moft any whit^ fiftx, except a fpecies of flounders, called ^r^
waters^ come within the bar. In the fands of the river w^
have a few fmall crabs ; one bank yields periwiukles \ ftirimps
are caught on all pf them, and fmelts in the channel, on the
ihore of Fife, near Salmerino, where the water becomes left
fait than at Dundee. In fom^ years, towards Auguft, large
(hoala of porpoifes appear, aiid regularly go up and down
with the tide, from the mouth of the river as far as Errol,
in pnrfuit of falmon, but no method has hitherto been found
nf c^t^hiog them. Seals %ro s^umerous, and alfo deftruftive

%f Dundee. 205

to the faltnon ; but Tarious methods ate prafiifed of catching
thefe ; and as they foon leave the places where they are onc«
difturbed, they are now feldom feen farther up than Mony«
fieth. The falmODi caught in the river, go principally x»
the London market, freih or pickled. To carry them frelh„
the method firft fuggcfted by Mr. George Dempfter, of pack*
ing them in ice, has been found of the greateil confequenc^
and is now confiantly adopted. The price of falmon here it
•Iways regulated by that of the London market, and general-
ly goes beyond it* Our falmon fiihings begin later than to-
wards Perth, and confequently lefs is carried in a frefli ftate
to London. The rent of all the (almon fiihings in the river
probably exceeds 3000 1. annually ; but of this rent, thofe on
our (hores yield a very inconfiderable part. The currents of
the Tay being rapid, the channels of its waters are often
changed, and. confequently, in this part of the river the ial"-
mon often change thei^ courfe, and the annual value of any
particular fifliing alters. A fiihing on the Fife ihore, oppo^
fite to Broughty Callle, was let in 1789, at no greater yearly
rent than 40 1. and in that year the tackfman is bid to have
cleared no lefs than 3C0 1. As the parifh is fituated a good way
within the bar of the river, we have no fea weed for manure.
Some kelp is made, but in fo fmall a quantity, that the Ihorea
yield no rent ; and any perfon who pleafes is alk>wed to bum
h. I know of no uncommon plants in the parifh, or any uq«
common (hells upon its Ihores ; neither fpunges nor corals
fire to be found.

On the fea coaft, without the bar, great numbers of fea»
fiib are caught ; haddocks, whitings, cod, ling, plaice, dah»
flounders, foles, turbot, holibut, Ikate, mackarel, and herrings.
Of theCe, the hadihicks were the principal, and the moft rea-
dily bought up. They were fome years a goin fuch plenty, at
to b« an i|i)|K>rU9t article of food Uk tb^ jGomauMn ncof le $ but

f Of

3o6 StatjJIical Account

for more than three jrears they have entirely left the obaA,
They were always in feafon, except from February to May,
The cod and ling are not plentiful^ and they are inferior in
quality to thofe taken farther north. The mackarel and her*
rings come from beyond Fife Nefs, and are principally taken
in Autumn. All the towns of Angus afford excellent
jnarkets for all thefe kinds of fiih, the town of Dundee efpe«
cially ; but it is now poorly and irregularly fupplied. Be.
tween Monyfieth and Arbroath, confiderable quantities o€
crabs and lobfters are found. The lobfters went chiefly to the
XxHidon market, till lately, that by overfi(hing« none were to
be had of a proper itze, and, on this account they were fat
fome time fpared, and more of them come to the market of
Dundee. Mufcles and cockles come from the moath of the
£den, nearSt. Andrews, and are fold by meafnre. Thedefeft
ef out Tea fifliing is, that the fiQiermen live too far up the riveo,
•nd, their boats being fmaller than in the times when fmug->
gling prevailed, they do not go cut to deep^enough water, and
cannot always venture to crols the bar. We have no oy£-
ter8,'ftod all attempts to fettle them in the river, have hither*
to been unfuccefsful. *

jintiquitkif CuriqfitUs^ l^r.— On the top of the Law of Don«-
dee, which is the naoft remarkable hill in the parifli, there
are the remains of a fortification, the ditch of which is ftifl
vifible. Though the whole inclofure, which Is of a fquard
form, is not of the fame (Irudure with the towers, which
have been fuppofed to be cemented by the force of fire, one
fmall part of it has been thus compa&ed. Probably on this
the fires for alarming the town were lighted ; and, by the fre-
quent lighting, fome of the ftones have been pat in fufion.
Along a good part of the fhore on the eftate of Craigie, feve-
fal vrna of usiburnt cUy,. conuining alheSi hove been feiindk

and

of Dundee, §oy

tf\6 fcveml done coffins with bones ; and, though the moft of
thefe are of the common forra, fome, without anj difference
in the fiie of the bones, are only three feet fquare. On the
lands of Balgajr, there is one of thofe fubterraneous dwell ings,
oar places of retreat, afcribed to the ancient Pifts ; and»
although it has not been jet explored, it is certainly of an«
common extent— The Ikeletoa of the firil elephant dilTeded
in Britain, was fome years ago to be feen ; the diffeftion was
made by Dr. Blair, an eminent phyfician of Dundee, and a
• memoir which he drew up concerning it, is to be found ict
the London Philofophical Tranfa&ions. — ^From the council
minutes, which yet remain, it appears, that coal mines wer»
wrought in Scotland, at a much more early period than is
oommonly believed ; for they (hew, that in the i6th century,
ctoals were the principal and common fuel. The iame mi«
mites fnrnifli many eridences of the uncertain and changeable
▼alue of money ; for, in 1589, the price of a boU of coals*
which probably confiiled, as at prefent, of 800 lb. weight,
and which now fells at 6 s. cofi* in 1610, z 8.6yd. Mr*
David Lindfay the parfon, (who afterwards was biihop of
Brechin, and probably tranflated thence to Edinburgh,) values
23 bolls of meal, 13 bolls of oats, and 10 bolls of wheat, paid
him out of the Abbey of Lindores, at no more than 8 1. 6 s.
8d. yearly ; and in place of that quantity of vidual, has that
annual fum fettled on him by the council : and, in the fame
year, Mr. James Gleg leaves the regency or profefforlhip of
St. Salvator's college, St. Andrews, in order to be chofen rec«
tor of the Dundee grammar fchool, with no greater yearly fa*
lary, than 16 1. 13 s. 4 d. and no higher quarterly payments
from his fcholars, than 6y d. The plague alfo appears in an-
cient times to have been very frequent ; and, befides the
dreadful ravages it made in Dundee about the year x j66, and

foe

tot* Statiflical Account

for the lad time in 1607, the inhabitants feem to have ntfti
been perfedly free from alarms concembg it *•

Population. — ^As to the fiate of the population of the town
and parifhy in remote times, it is impoffible togive any acoounts ;
nor can thofe which we may attempt to give, even for the lad
century, be deemed fully fatisfaAoxy- The greateft part of the
ancient records and documents, is faid to have been carried off or
deftroyed, at the various fiegesof the town, andefpecially whea
k was ftormed by Monk ; and though fome council minutes
lemain, as far back at 1587, and a record of perfons inroUed
ns burghers, beginning in 15139 they afford very little affif-
tance in this inveftigation. The regifter of baptifns and
marriages, reaches no farther back than 1645, and contains
BO more than five complete years before the fatal affault in
x65i« As, however, we have of late years, three a&ual enu-
merations of the inhabitants, one in X766, when their num*
ber was )bund to be 11,416; one in 1781, when it turned
•ut 15,700 ; and one in 1788, when it was 199329, we are
enabled, from a comparifon of the marriages near thefe pe-<
riods, with the marriages about 165 1, to form fome probable
conjectures about its former population. The annual ave«
rage of the marriages for the 5 years, previous to 1651, is 85.

But

* Under the head of sntiquittet may alfo be (Uted the Tsrioot attacks and
ficfet of the town. It wai twice taken by the Eogliih in the days of King £d<«
ward I. and as often retaken by the heroes Wallace and Bruce, and the caille
was demoliflied by the latter. It was again taken and reduced to afbes hj
Richard If. and a fourth time by the Engiilh, who, in the reign of Edward VL
held Broughty Caftle. The Marquis of Montrofe took it by aflault, «nd gave
it up to pillage, which feems to have been prevented by the approach of an ar-
my of the Covenanters ; and to cover his retreat from them, the north and eaft
]parts of it were fiet on €re. The laft and moft deftni^ive fiege, when it waa»
■gain taken by aflaalt| and completely pillaged, was in Cromwdl's time by Ocf
yenHMoBk.

of Dundee. 109

Bat the anniiftl average of the marriages, for the 5 yean, imme-
diately preceding 1766, is 240; and as 140 to 12,416, theac*
tnal number of inhabitants, in 1766, fo is 85 to 7544. The
average number of marriages again for the 5 years preceding
1781, is 149, and as 149 to 15,700, fo is 85 to 8937 ; and, in
like manner, as 215, the average number of\he marriages for
the 5 years preceding 1788, is to X9>329, fo is 85 to 7641.
Thefe are the three refults for the number of the inhabitants
in 1651 J the medium of the three brings it out 8,047 > ^"d»
it is probable, that this conjedure does not err widely from
the truth. It is tru^ that a iimilar comparifon, inftiluted be-
tween the averages of the bf ptifms, at thefe different periods,
would bring out in 1651, a population not le(s than 12,597 ;
but more inefped feems, on many accounts, to be due to the
regifter of marriages,, than to that of baptifms. All marriages,
•whether regular or not, have hitherto been carefully record-
ed ; but, befides that many neglef^, or find it inconvenient, to
record their children's names, (and thefe omii&ons are much
more readily overlooked, in large places, than in fmall), it is
to be obferved, that previous to 1651, there were few or no
fe6taries ; whereas, fioce the revolution in 1688, and efpeci-
ally, fince the rile of the Indep'fendents and Seceders, about
Z732, many have thought regiftration in the records of the
Eftablifhed Church, inconfiflent with their religious prin-
ciples : confequently, the number of recorded baptifms, mud
now bear a lefs proportion to the number of inhabitants than
it did formerly ; and, the refult, for the former population,
which is drawn from them, muft come out too great.

The lols of people in the fiege by Monk, and efpecially in
the carnage at the ftomling of the town, appears, on many ac-
counts, to have been great, and cannot be eUimated at much
Jefs than a fixth part of the whole inhabitants. Of X59 children,
bom within the eight months immediately following, no lefs
• Vol. VIII. Dd than

2fo Statlftic^l Account

than 15 are pofthumous ; and as 1599 to 8047, the whole num«
^ ber of inhabitants, fo is 25 to 11651 ^^ number that maj be
fuppofed to have been deftroj^d. It is true, that this diminu-
tion of inhabitants does not produce anj immediate cffeft
upoQ the marriages^ or baptifms, recorded in the regiften naj,
that in the fix fucceeding years, the marriages are more nu-
merous than before the fiege. But among thefe, 66 s^re the
marriages of Englilh foldiers ; and though the baptifms, dur-
ing this period, are not upon the whole increafed, but in a
fmall degree diminiflied, 155 of them are of foldiers' childrep.
Befides, the money fpent by a numerous garriibn could not
fail to attrad people by the hopes of profit ; and, the cxaft
4ifcipline of Cromwell's troops, and the regular diftribution
of juflice, which took place during the whole time of his
ufurpation, gave them full and unufual fecurity in their va-
xious occupations. But on the withdrawing of the garrifou^
the deficiency of inhabitants, becomes immediately evident*
Notwithftanding the acceflions which the garrifon has be^n
fuppofed to attraft, a calculation from the marfiages brings
put, after the reftoration, a diminution of 875 in the popula-
tion ; and, towards the end of the reign of Chales II. and
during the whole reign of James VIL a diminution of 1420.
This diminution of population cannot bp afcribed to the
flight or removal of the inhabitants^ on the forefight of the
fiege ; for m^ny perfons, and fome even of the higheft ranl^,
had repaired to Dundee, as a place of fecurity, and ftrength*
Among thefe, I fin^ the Earls of Buchan, Tweddale, Bu<;-
cleugh and Rofeberxy \ the Vifqount of Newburgh; the lon)s
Balcarras, Elibank, Yefter and Ramfay ; and the mailer of
Burley; 13 perfons alfo bearing titles of knighthood; x^
other gentlemen of landed property; 9 of the Faculty of Advo-
cates ; 24 writers, merchants, and indwellers of Edinburgh ;
and 6 citizens of ^e Canongate, Leith and Muflelburgh.

t>f Bunditi ail

Somfe etreh of the clergy from the fouth foiiad it neceSarj to
take ihelter in Dundee particalarlj Meflrs. Oliver Colt ; at
MuiTelburghyStevenfon at Dunbar^ and Reid of the Weft Kirk
Edinburgh. All thefe are mentioned in the regifter, as pa-
rents or witnefles to the baptifrnft recorded in it. One of the
children recorded is Anne, afterwards Dutchefs of Mon-
mouth; and the houfe where (be was bom is ftill pointed out*;
In this deftrudion of fo many inhabitants, many ftrangeis
were involved, thofe efpecially who appeared as defenders of
die town* The governor Lumifden, of the family of Inver*
gelly in Fife, is faid, on the irruption of the Engliih, to have
taken poflef&on of the great ^fteeple } and, being foon after
obliged to furrender at dtfcretion, he and all with him were
maHacred in the church yard. In the fame place alfo, the

D d A two

* It may, perhaps, be an objeft of curi«ilty, at lea£, to an inhabitant of Dun-
dee, to know the liamet of the perfons whofe pofthumoos children are recorded,
and, who probably iUl in the fiege, or after it. They are John Duncan, Donald
Bunbai, Robert Ritchiefon, James Onthrie, Andrew Kioneries, merchantt;
Robert Bultie, unmarried, of a refpedable mercantile family now extind ; Ma-
jor Robert Lindfay, probably fon of one defigned late of Kinnettles; Thomas
Annand, taylor ; George Barrie, mealmaker ; David Elder, weaver ; Thomas
Kicoi and Alexander Hill, maltnien ; William Glenny, feiman ; John Nicol
bazter; George Anderfon, hammerman ; and of perfons whrfe defignatiuns arc
not given, James Angus, unmarried ; James Thain, John Diflon, John John-
fton, Thomas Smith, John Kennedy, John Lyon, Thomas Watfoo, TSTilUam
Oughterlony, James Stibbles. As an objed of fimilar curioiicy, the following
not inelegant epitaphs, on the tomb ftones of two other perfons, who feem to
have been of confiderable note, are infer ted.

^ Mommtnium Robbeti DAYtViOVffrstoris wgUaiitiJimif qui, Jtmforiiter f^
** mapuuiimitr uriis tppygmatUHe iSmicatatf UtbaUUr ab b^Umt vmlturati/tt pro cM"
** taUitfith vitam rtdH&i, Cal. SifiUmtrh, Amu Salutu iumaiut MVCLL

'* MoHuwuntuM Gsoaoii BaowN, pr^torU wurUiJimi, gut, hoc pratur^o mumerM
" por tUeemuHm filkiUr defun&us^ undisque pMgnando Uthaliter «^ bofti^t vulneratus ;
** quihu vulMeribut per Marttm languidust morUm^ mttwm dstiium^ pro civitatf ctpa*
*' tris rMdii. %do, Nonas OMrk^ Jmm Dom, idjx. Miatit fixogffimor

ill Stati/lkal Account

two batallions of Lord Duffus's regiment are iaid to have been
ilaughtered; and, another body fufiered the like fate, in the
.fquare called the fi(h->niarket. No umifaal provocation ap*
pears to have been given to this feveritj. On the contrarjr,
Mr. Gumble, general Monk's cha^^in, and who writes his
life, fpeaks in high terms of the governor, for his gallant and
brave defence* His head was, notwithftanding, cut ofF and
fixed upon a fpike, in one of the abutments at the'fouth weft
comer of the fteeple; and, till a few years ago, when the
ftone where the fpike was inferted, fell down, the remains of
it were obfervable. The fame indignity appears alfo to have
been done to others* It is a tradition here, that the carnage
did not ceafe till the third day, when a child was feen in a
lane, called the Thorter-Row, fucking its murdered mother.
Several perfons alfo, on this occafion, were carried prifoners
to London, probably along with the 300 officers furprifed by
Monk's Colonels, Alured and Morgan, at Alyth, when, col-
leAing a body to raife the fiege* Among the prifoners, were
Mr* Andrew Affleck, the parfon, or firil minifter, and Mr.
John Robertfon the Vicar. They were detained at London
till fpring 1653 j and, after their return Mr. Robertfon
was fome time confined in the common prifon of Dundee*
Mr* Affled was anceftor to the two brothers. Admiral and
•Captain Affleck in the royal naCVy* The date of this meici-
lefs aflaulty.was the firft of September 1651*

Though no probable account can be given of the popula-
tion in remote times, the town of Dundee appears to have
been long ago a place of cooiiderable note* Edward I*
thought it of fufficient confequence to be occupied hj an
Englifh garrifon ; and, the illuftrious Wallace, (with his
companions John Blair, probably of the fialthajock family,
and Sir N. Campbell of Lochow,) is faid, by tradition, to have
received his education at the Dundee fchool, and in this iitua-

tion,

fi Dundee. a 13

U01I9 to have begun his exploits, with the death of the fon to
the EngUih governor. Of the 4 boroughs* Edinburgh, Perth,
Dundee and Aberdeen, which were of fiioh conCequence, in
all the reigns, after that, of Robert Bruce, as to give fecurity
Cor the obfervation of national treaties, it was the third in
irank : Its ihare, in the reign of James VI. of the whole pub-
lic taxes, was a 25th part, and of thofe laid upon the boroughs^
femetioies a tenth parr, but more frequently a 5th ; and of
the xaoo xnerks impofed upon the towns of Dundee, Forfar,
Arbroath and Perth, for fitting out the yacht, Mary "gallant^
to fetch home the king and queen from Denmark, the pro*
portion paid by Dundee was 700. At the ftorm by Monk,
Gumble fpeaks of it as a very rich and thriving place \ he
tells us, in particular, of 60 (hips taken in the harbour, and
fent away loaded with booty, confifting chiefly of plate and
money ; and, difapproving of the rapacity of the plunderers,
mentions, with apparent fatisfadion, the lofs of the whole
ieet, in croffing the bar of the river.

A calamity, probably no lefs fatal to the town of Dundee,
than the fiege and fiorm by Monk, was the fevere 7 years
dearth in the end of the lad century. The annual average of
marriages for 5 years, was atthat time reduced to 54; and from
the effeds of this calamity, we never recovered till feveral years
after the rebellion in 1745. Though the union of the kingdoms
put an end to the arbitrary and tyrannical proceedings of the
government in Scotland, it produced a new caufe of depreffion
to this particular diftrlA. Our fiaple roanufa&ure was the
fpinning and weaving the coarfe woollens, called Platding.
Thefe were fent to the Dutch- market, and there thickened
and dyed, for clothing to the troops in various parts' of Ger-
many. This branch of trade, we have, by the lofs of our
Dutch and French privileges, loA fo completely iince the Uni-
on, that now no remainder of it is to be found. The annual

average

£14 Stattftical Account

average e>f the marriages, for the 5 je^rs pr^ceditfg 1746^
does not exceed 56 ; this gives a population no greater than
5302 ; and from other reafons^ it is probable, that this con-^
dufion is not much b«low the truth. At thecrofs, in the prin-
cipal ftreet of the town, there were not in that year, above 4
or 5 hbufes completely built of fione, all the reft were part*
Ij of wood. No (hop rented at more than a 1., or at the ut-
moft 3 L ; the retailers who rented them were generally poor^
^d three ihops at the crofs, which three years ago were fold
for 450 1. each, were then entirely fhut. At that time, alfo,
there were only two churches, for public worfhip ; and though
there were no Seceding mectmg-houfes, and the lodependent
congregation was very inconfiderable, if one church was well
filled on Sundays, the other was nearly empty«

We have no regifter of burials, that can be depended upoo^
except for the laft 5 years; and this we eue entirely to the
care and attention of Dr. Willifon, one of our principal phy-
ficians. As the infertion of the whole would fwell this ac-
count to too great bulk, the fafts which follow, as feeming
to be moft important, are extra&ed from it. From February
xft. 1787 to ditto 1788, the number of burials was 552 ; from
1788 to 1789, in v{)iich period a very malignant kind of
fmall pox raged» the number was 867 ; from 1789 to 1790,
it was 609 ; from 1790 to X791, when the (mall pox agaia
raged, accompanied with the chincough, it was 840, and from
1791 to 1792, 890. The annual average of burials, there-
fore, for thefe 5 years, is 752 ; and the proportion of deaths,
to the whole number of inhabitants, may, with probability,
be reckoned nearly that of z to 31. The excefa of the buri-
als in 1791, above thofe of any year, wherein the finall pox
did not prevail, is principally to be afcribed to frefli acceffions
of inhabitants ; for, though a putrid fore throat was at that
time epidemicali I do aot find, after the moft minute inquiries,

that,

9f Dundee, %i$

tbat it was fatal to more than 50 people. The proportion of
burials, of males Co thofe of females, is nearly asziotoiij;
ivhereas the proportion of births, of males to thofe of femalest
taken from the record of baptifms, bj sf medium of averages
for 5 years, at different periods, is nearly as 145 to 118.
The average number of children, dying under a, is 236 :
from 2 to 5, 98; and of ftilUbom children 50. The moft fatal
period to people advanced in life, is from 60 to 70, ivhere
the annual average of death3 is 57 ; and to young people
paft childhood, from 15 to 25, when the fame average 19
47^ The moft fatal mouths are January, March, and De-
cember, the averages of burials in thefe being refpeclively 88,
73» 74* ^^^ perhaps the mod important fa& in the whole
regiller, and which ought to excite attention from the perfons
mod averfe to the pradice of inoculation^ is, that, while in
1787 and 1789, the average number of children dying under
5, was only 17I9 a fimilar average fqr the years 1788 at;d
1790, in which the fmall pox raged, arofe to the aftoniihing
fi^m of 410* The whole number of people reported as dying
^bove 90, in all the 5 years of the regifter, is 2 j; of whom one
was in the 99th year; another above the lootb, another in the
I02d, and another j>robably in the 107th year of their feve-
ral lives. The name of the laft was James Peter, who died
in 1790* A correfponding date of his father and mother's
marriage, was certainly found in the pariih regifter of Dun-
nichen. Their mar^age was (aid to have fubiided onlyi year,
and he affirmed, that he was their only child.

Since the enui^eration in 1788, the town continues to in-
creafe with greatei^ rapidity than before ; and the whole in-
habitants of the totihi and pariih can hardly be eilimated at
led than 24,000 \ they are certainly rated fulficiently low at
;i3,ooo. They refide chiefly in the town and fuburbs ; and,
a| the inhabitants* of what may be properly called th^ coun-
try

2 1 6 Stotijtkal Account

try pari£b, do not exceed I zoo, (and this is nearly doable their
number in 1 759)9 the town and fuburbs of Dundee maj
be faid to contain from 22,000 to 22,500 fouls. The re-
turn to Dr. Webfter in 1755, for the town and diftrid^
was only iSt477 fouls; fo that calculating the popnla«
tion now at the medium number of 23,500, the increafe
is 11,123 fouls. On the borders of the parifli, there are
two villages, the North Ferry near Broughty Caftlc, part
of which runs into the parifti of Monyfieth, and our pro-
portion of people in it is 166 : the other is Loch-eye, chiefly
in the parifh of LifF; and in this our proportion is hitherto
but inconiiderable.

ManufaBures. The principal and (laple manufafture of
Dundee is linen of various kinds; viz. i. Ofnaburghs, and other
iimilar coarfe fabrics of different names, for exportation, and
which alone, till lately^ were fubjefted to the national ftamps.
The quantity of thefeftamped, between November 1788 and
ditto 1789, amounted to 4,242,653 yards, valued at 108, 782 i.
Z4S. 2d. ; and fnbtrading from this a fourth part, fnp<-
pofed to be brought from fix neighbouring parifhes, to the
Dundee (lamp offices, there will remain for the quantity
made in this parifl), 3,181,990 yards, in value, 80,587 1. os.
8d. 2. All the different forts of canvas for ihipping. This
fabric is entirely confined to the town, and the quantity an-
nually made may be rated at 704,000 yards, and valued at
32,000 1. The cloth of this kind, made by fome of the prin-
cipal manufadurers, is thought to be fuperior in quality to
any otker in Britain ; and, by a regulation now introduced;
and for which we are chiefly indebted to Mr. Graham of
Fintry, of fubjeding it to the infpeftion of public ftamp-maf-
ters, will probably retain its charafter. A procefs is alfo
known, by which the buyer, at a fmall additional expence^

maj

(ftiundec. iij

The quantity annually made, may amount to 16,600 yards|
and may be valued at 800 1. 4. Bagging for cotton wool, in
quantity 165,000 yards, and in value 5,500,!. 5. Some
diaper by one company lately eftabliflied. 6. The greateft
part of all the linen neceflary for houfehold purpofes i but
the quantity and value of this cannot be exadly afcertained.

Befides all thefe kinds of linen, the manufafture of cotton
has been lately introduced, and will probably foon become a
Tery important branch of bufinefs. Seven companies are aU
ready engaged in it. They employ about 400 men, women and
cbUdpren, in fpinning cotton into yarn for wool. They are fup«
pofedto fpin annually 135,000 lbs. of yarn, valued at 20,2501*;
and, with warp, which they buy f'rom diftant cotton mills^
mod of thefe companies have begun to work up their yarn
into callicoes, handkerchiefs, and coarfe waiftcoats. One
company alfo fpins yam for muflin, to the annual value of
3000 1. An Englifli company from Lambeth is alfo engag-.
cd in eftablifhing an woollen manufa&ure, where every branch
of the bufinefs, from the wool to the iinifhed cloth, is propofed
to be carried on. The looms employed in all the kinds of
weaving, and in all parts of the parifli, are from x8oo to
1900.

T he manufadure of coloured thread has been eftablifhed
in Dundee for 50 or 60 years, and was for a confiderable tims
peculiar to it. This bufinefs is in the hands of 7 different
companies or mafters, who ufe 66 twilling mills, and employ
about 1340 fpinners, and 370 fervants, to make the yarn into
thread. The quantity annually made is computed at 269,568 lb.
and valued at 33«6g61. The fpinners live in diftant parts of
Scotland, where labour is cheaper than in Dundee.

The value of leather, tanned annually in Dundee, is
computed at i4',2ro L About 32 perfons are employed in
tanning, who ufe 500a !• worth of oak barkj about 12 as

Vol, VIIL E • aurriers,

2 1 8 Statiftical Account

curriers, in dreiling part of what is tanned for upper leathers
to flioes ; 95 in making boots and ihoes for exportation, and
aoo in fupplying the confumption of the town. The value
of boots and ihoes ezpogted maj be about 4385 1. As the
demand for tanned leather has, for fome jears, greatlj increaf-
fed, confiderable difficultj is fcmnd in procuring raw hides,
and the price of oak bark is doubled. This bufinefs is upon
the increafe. Two new enterpriiing and aftive companies
have of late engaged in it, fo that probably it will be more
than doubledt

Two companies are engaged in manufa&urlng cordage of
all k-inds for (hipping, and ropes for all the various ufes of
the country. They employ about 30 perfons, and they alfo
carry on the whole bufinefs of ihip-chandlers. Soap was fome
years ago manufactured to a coniiderable amount ; but this
bufinefi now declines, and laft year only yielded of duty to
government the fum of 1828 L 19 s. 0^. It is thought
that this bufinefs will not only be abandoned here, but that
it will foon be totally loQ to Scotland. The fuppofed caufes
are either regulations of excife, partial to England, or fu-i
perior rigour in carrying the common regulations into execu-
tion. It is poflible, however, that the real caufe may be
foolifli attempts to underfell their richer Englifh neighbours.
It may here be mention/ed, as an article of curiofity, that foap
making was an art known in Dundee, as far back as the
1 6th century.

Within thefe 3 or 4 years, the manufafture of glafs has been
introduced, and the company engaged in it have ereded two
glals-houfes; one for bottles, and the other for the white kinds
of window glafs. Hiey employ in the bufinefs 100 perfons,
and laft year it yielded to government a duty of 3046 1. Ma-
ny perfons are alfo employed in manufa&uring tobacco and
fnuff ^ and one company is engaged in a fugar houfe, but of its

izpportance

tf Dundee. ^19

ifnpoitance to the communitji no particular account has been
obtained.

Befides thefe, and fome other branches of manufaSure,
omitted as being jet in their infancy, (for example, caft iron
and fait,) or though long efiablifhedyfufficientlj accounted for
bj the taxes thej paj to Government, % banking companies
are eftabliflied in Dundee ; and two diftant companies, one in
Edinburgh, and one in Paiilejr, have opened bank offices. The
quantity of paper money, in conftant circulation from all the
four, is eftimated at 1 60,000 1. Infurances againft fire are al-
fo made by a company, confiding of ,50 or 60 perfons, whofe
property is fuppofed to amount to half a million ; and by
whom, though formed into a company only a few years a-
go, infurances are already made to the value of 800,000 !•

Revenue paid to Government. '-^ome, part of the revenue,
arifing from Dundee to Government, may be accurately or
nearly afcertained, but a much more confiderable part muft
be left to conjedure.

Of the firft kind are the duties of excife for the year,
ending with the 5th of July 1792, and communicated in
the moil obliging manner, by Mr. Mitchell, fupervifor ; and
they are accompanied with a comparative (late of the excif«
duties in 1751.

In i75Xf In 1791.

L* B, d. L. I. d.

Malt, - 81 r 13 1} . - ; X436 7 ir;

Ale and beer, - 1114 15 3^ - - - 1690 % x

Candlct, - 160 4 a ... 62a % lof

Hidet, - 183 II 8^ • . ^. X017 X %

Snap, - none • • • i8a8 19 c{

Claft, - none - - • 3406 o si

Bricks, - none * - - 14 17 6

Total, L. 2470 4 3 Carried over, — L. 10,0x5 xx o J

Coftom*
Eel

949 19

51% %

28o iS

490» it

i6oo o

220 Statlfiical Account

Brought oyer, — L. 10^x5 i\ #

Cuftomhoufe duties for the year ending January x.
1791, and comipunicated with like rcadincfs, by

• Mr. Hunter clerk of the cuftoms, . . 5^^^ X7 XZ

Land-tax, and other taxes in the country part of the

pariih, levied by the country coUe^or, * - ' 34Z 8 r

Town-ceft, and other taxes within the royalty, levied
by the town's colledors - - .

Excife licences of all the various kinds, about,

Ale licences, about, - - ...

Duties on 78^44? lt>. of (huff and maaufaAured to*
bacco, paid at the places of original importation.

Produce of the poH office in 1791, about,

Of the fecond kind, are the duties on fait, allowing 4

buihels yearly to 5 perfons, - - 690 O •

Duties on 583^ tons of fugar, of which 7 aoths are
fuppofed to beunmanufadured,8 loths refined, and
5 ftcths ground or powdered, and reckoned equiva-
lent in taxation to 6ai tons, - - 93T5 o o

Duties on 47743 lb. of tea, eftimated at, - - 895 s 4

puties on (lamped paper not lefs than, • - Zocx> o O

£xclfe duties on wines and fpiritsJmported immedi-
ately from foreign parts, - - - J1030 16 6J

Pitto on ditto, from other parts in the kingdom, ac«

cording to a mean of three efttmations. - 5970 O •

Duties on innumerable other articles, manufa^red
foap, groceries, drugs, (larch, indigo, cambric, muf-
iinf; (ilk, paper, newfpapers,perfumery, malt-liquor,
hops, &c. &c. &c., imported - - X1,OQO o •

So that tho revenue arifing to government,
from the trade and confumption of Dundep, can- '

not be ((limited at lefs than, - « L. 56,845 X4 i\

In the lail article the valuation is by np means too high, for
the duty on Tea p'alone will make up the greateil part of it; and
the quantitymade in Dundee does not fupply one fourth of the
demands of this iingle parifli; fo that it is not improbable, that
a more juft efiim^tion wpuld bpng out a revenue greater than
00,000 1. Several of thefe fums are not, indeed, direftly paidin
Pyp^ce^ hut thejr are equally real taxes upon its traders and in-^

Jiabitap?^

f^f Dundee. t2i

habitants. With refpefl to thofe on ale and malt, it ought
not to pafs unobferyed, that thej have for a long time gradu-
ally decreafed, and do not now yield a fum equal to its produce
in 1745» when the pari(h did not contain above 6000 people.
In that year the town's grant, of twopennies on the pint of ale«
IS faid to have yielded 500 L In 2757 it gave 423 1. 9 s. and
its produce in 1791 was no more than 3261. 6 s. ; this dif*
ference is fuppofed to arife, in a great meafure, from the va-
rious taxes \ by which the malt liquor here has been fo much
deb^fed, that it ceafes to be the drink ufed in focial meetings,
or for refrefhment from the fatigues of labour; and the people,
deprived of their ancient, exbilerating, and wholefome beve-
rage^ have recourfe to intoxicating and enervating fpirituous
liquors. The increafed ufe of thefe is certainly a mod alarm-
ing circumfiance. They are fold in no lefs than 179 licenfed
hoqfes; and the nun^ber of non-licenfed ones, where they may
be procured, is believed to be very great ; whereas formerly
the town was fufficiently, and perhaps, too Well fupplied by
five or fix.

Shippings Exports y Imports^ \Sc. — On the 5 th of January
1792, there were 116 veiTels, belonging to the port, navigated
by 698 men, and meafuring 8550} tons. Of thefe, 34 were
employed in the foreign, and 78 in the coafting trade, and 4
in the ^hale fiihery. By Mr. Hunter, clerk of the cufioms,the
author of this account has been favoured with the following
/comparative flate of fome of the principal articles of trade,
in the years 1745 and I79X*

Tpt^ tozmage cleared outwards to fordgn parti

In 1745- InX79i.

500 torn. • r>379 toQi*

Ditto cleared inwards from ditto, xaSo do. - zojao do.

Inwards co^ft-wiie, - 00 account, - 40,933 do*

Pujwards, ditto, • ^ 3000 do, - • ^0,055 do.

Qoodf

22 a Statjtftical Account

In 1745- In Z79X«

Goods imported* Flax from Ruflia, none - - - %l^% tons

Ditto from Holland, - 74 tons - 72 do*

Hemp, - - - none - - 199 do.

Tow or codillio, - - none • * 24 do.

Clover feed, - - 100 lb. - s^i do.

Lintfeed, - - Z406 hhds. - Z036 hhdi-

Fir timber, - • 98 loads - 1706 loads.

Fir balks, - - - 100 - 6300

Deals, • - - 10,500 - • X3iX0O

Swedilh iron, - 50 tons - 45 tons

Goodsbroughtcoaft-wife. Cottonwool, none - • Z$ ^^'

Tea from London, - none - - 47f743 M>««

Porter, - - none - - zoSo hhds.

Coals from the Forth, - no account « 28,021 tons
Sugar, in 1 745 , no account

but in 1756, - - 62 tons - .i^sido.
Goods fent coaft-wife. Linen, brown

and white, - 1,000,000 yards, - 7,842,000 yards

Thread, white and coloured, 12,544 lbs. - I3»,752 lbs.

Sail-cloth, - - none - - 280,000 yards

Cotton bagging, - * none • - 65P00 yards

Barley or big, - 3393 qurs. - 23,917 yards

Wheat, - - p- 350 do, - - 3097 do.

To thefe evidences of the thriving date of Dundee, and in«
deed of the whole neighbouring country, a variety of others
might be added. In 1772, no more than 5 or 6 houfes were
to be feen between the weft end of the royalty and Blacknefs ;
flow upwards of 100 acres have been feued out, in the fame
diftrift for building on, and upwards of 4000 people fettled
in it. About 1770, the feu duty, even for the lands nearell
the town, did not exceed 3I. or 3I. ids. the acre, and this
was fuppofed to be an advantageous price ; now lots of 10 or
12 acres, of a much greater diftance, are feued by Mr Hun-
ter of Blacknefs, at 10 1, and fubfeued at X4l. the acre.
Among the lateft £eus near the town, may be mentioned about
4 acres of land, cliieily under the management of the Kirk-

felToa,

tf Dundee. 223

feiSon. Thefe» altogether, for manj years pad, ^ere rented
at 3L Laft year they were feued at 40 1. the acre. la like
manner in 1754, when there were only two churches on the
cftablifliment for public worfhip, the feat rents of that por-i
tion of them, which was the Town's, properly amounted to no
more than 21 1. 4 s. 7d. Now, when there are 7 eftabliihed
churches and chapels, the feat rents of the fame portioa
amount to 1751*

Befides the general advantages derived from the conftitU"'
tion of the Britifh government, and the liberty and fecurity
its fttbjefts enjoy, in all their lawful occupations, the particu«-
lar caufe of the increafe and profperity of Dundee is, un«
doubtedly, the bounty allowed by Parliament on all manafac-
tured linens. By this the induftry of the inhabitants was firft
fet in motion, and encouraged ; and their confequent profpe-
rity, if it be not an evidence in favour of bounties in gene-
ral, is, at leafl, a decifive one, that, in fome cafes, they are
wife and judicious, and may be produ&ive of the greateft be-
nefit. Whether the linen manufafture could now be fup-
ported without the bounty, or whether the fpirit of indu(lry»
which is now awakened, could be eafily and profitably di*
verted into other channels, is a que&ion on which it would
be prefumptuous in any private perfon to pronounce, and,
perhaps, any experiment oa the fabjeA might be dangerous.

Trices of Provifionsy Labour^ t^r— The average prices of
beef through the year, and without diftinAion of particular
prices, is 4 s. 6 d. the ftone, and this is alfo tlie general price
of pork. Mutton, through the year, fells at from 4d. to 5 d*
the pound, and veal from jd. to 6d. the weight is Dutch,
confiding of 17 oz. 4 dr. per pound. Hens have rifen to 1 jd.
each \ chickens to 4 d. and 6 d. each ; ducks to 2 s. i geefe
fell from is. ^ d. to 3 s. each ; turkies from 5s. to 8 s. ;
pigeons at 4 d. the pair. The wages of a maid-fervant are

from

2 24 Statifiical Account

from 3I. to 4!. yearly, and of a labouring man-ferVant front
7]. to lol. Maibn's daily wages are from is, 8d. to 2s«;
thofe of h6ufe carpenters from z s. 3 d. to i s. 6 d. and of day
bbpurers x s. at an average through the year.

CtmflittUion^ Privileges^ iSc. — The privileges of the town of
Dundee, as a free and royal borough, are very ancient. A
charter by King Robert Bruce, dated March 14th, in the 2 id
year of his reign, and proceeding upon a recognition of its
privileges by a jury, mentions its being pofTciTed of them' in
the time of his prcdecefibr, William, who began to reign in
1165 ; and that they were as ample as thofe enjoyed by the
town of Berwick, or by any borough in Scotland. This char-
ter, the recognition on which it proceeds, with the defigna-
tions of the jury, and the commiflion to Bernard, Abbot of
Arbroath, and Mr. Alex. Frafer, Chancellor of Scotland, to
preiide as King's Lieutenants at the trial, whether now in ex*
iflence or not, were in the poiTeffion of the Council not above
50 years ago ; and the writer of this article has had an oppor*
tunity to fee copies of them, with tranflations from the Latin,
made by Mr. George Bruce, then redor of the grammar
fchool. Thefe rights appear alfo to have been confirmed and
enlarged by many fucceeding princes ; particularly, by David
Bruce, James IL James IV. Queen Mary, James VL and
Charles L So uncommon are fome of thefe, that by an edi£t
of David Bruce, the villages of Coupar in Angus, Keltins,
Kirriemuir, and Alyth, are prohibited from, holding markets;
and all perfons difcharged, under the higheft penalties, from
attending them, as being within the liberties 0/ Dundee. Be-
fides a confirmation of rights. Queen Mary's charter conveys
to the town all the pofleffions of the Dominican friars, Mi-
norites, Francifcans, and Gray Sifters, St. Clement's charch,
and its chaplabries ; with all their revenues and lands, among
which were a third part of the lands of Craigie $ and, in par-

3 ticular

46vlat» Ac place ami jfAriff iKlooging to the Grey Cordelier
friars, for this fjpecial resfon, ** that the former burjiog ground
^ in St. Clement's church •yard was u> the middy ie^ of the towoi
** and by burying in it^^^S and other contagions ticiuiefs might
** be hgeaerii^ and nade to ferfiviir,'* AH thefe former grants
fie alfo mentioned at length, and confirmed with additions, by
tiie charter of Jaoies VL 4>ted at Holyroodhonfe, January
l6. 17^1, and fiaally confirmed by Charles L His charter is
called tie grsai cbarUr^ and bears^ that fU its articles wen^
radfied in Parliaaienty Sept* 14. i64l»

A.uple, however, as thefe privileges were^ thty appear to
have been continually difputed by the ScrymCeoors of Dnd^
hope, who, for figoal ftrviccs done under the iUuiirious
Wallace, had been by him create4 Qonfiables of the caftle,
and continued to c^joy that {lereditary dignity* The bounds
between the powers of tha Conftabk^ and the pririlefn of
the citi&ens, leem never to have been accurately determined^
pad coafequeBdy have become tha fubfefts of frequent coq«
traverfy* and occafiona of dangerous riot. Tbe Cooftabla'a
powers efpecially appear to have esaited the greateft jaalou^
fies« when,, as of teik happened, they were united to aiiy of tbf
•ffces of the magiftracy. About tha year 1604, Sir Jamep
Scrymfeour having flMde an atteaspt to reader biA^f perpSf
toal Provoft^ to change the eleAioa of the eomncil iiito a mero
Bomiaalioii, and to iabfe& all cautest ciyjl %nd criminal, to
kitf own autbosity, the gvesta^ a^msiMi^icos ware excited, and
the peace of the (owu was ibr anaoy years diilurbed. The citi-
fciMi bowamr, uadsr the diredoon chiefly of the flctchet f»-
wly» af laft pcovailod ;. and the Scrymfeours loft all their i&r
fuenc« ill Ibo connciU and appear to have been expelled* Re^
Cmtflseat for thia aitoaft (earns li> have ii^crealed the ufual a-
liimofiQr« and it arofi:, at one time, to fuch extravagance^ that
fba Coaftabk obluaeda wait of 2«w* j«nv# «f|iJii| the couq-

yquVUL fi fidloo.

226 Statiflical Account

fellorsy and probably the whole cotnmanitj ; ctor were thcjf
difcharged from its operation, till John Fothringbam of Pdw«
rie became fecuritj for tbem to the valne of 20,cco merks.
It was not till Odober ii. 1643, **^ *^^ differences were
fettled, bj an agreement, under the diredion of Sir George
Haljbiirton of Eotherance, and Sir John Leilie of Newton^
Lords of Seflion. Even after this agreement, many of the
acknowledged powers of the Conftable were grievous and ha*
miliadng to the inhabitants ; and thefe powers were never fi<
nallj aboliifaed, till the general abolition of all hereditary ja«
rtfdifti.^s. ' •

The conftttntton of govertiment eftablifhed in Dandee, ot
what is called the Sit of the Borough ^ though apparently re«
publican, is a fpecies of oligarchy, not materially differing
from thofe eftabliflied, in general, over all the towns in Scot^
land. The Town Council is compofed of 20 perfons, include
ing the magiftrates, confifting of a provoft, and four bailies.
The annual ele&ion of thefe inagiftrates, and aUb of the dean
of guild, and treafurer, *is on the Thurfday immediately pre*
vious to Michaelmas. But the council for the enfiiiifg yeaf
f s chiefly chofen on the pricceding Tnefday, and all the' oaea*
fures fixed, which are. generally decifive in the eleftion of the
oficers juft now mentioned. The whele 20 counfeUors a^
Temble oh that day, and choofe 8 new counfeUors, of wbon 5
muft be . taken from the gtitldry, or body of free merohantSt
and 3 from any feparate three of the incorporated trades* No
more new counfeUors than 8 are nece£GiTy, becaufe the 4
bailies muft be members of the new council tsi oJStid. - Witll
the additK>n of thefe 8 new members, they proceed to mak#
up Uetff or li(l$, for the offices of provoft, bailies^ dean of
guild, tittd treafurer. The leet for die provoft is limited to
people, who, at any time formerly have been bailies ; the
leet for billies to former counfiellors ; that for the deai^
of guild to prefent bailies; and the k^t for the trea-

furer

•« -* pf^DUndcc. ^ %^^

i&irer h alone unlimited. When two perfooA have thus
been kH^d^ for every one of thefe feveo office!;, the pow«
ers of two particular old counfellors, as to any farther
ihare in the eledion espire^ and the number of old and new
couafellors is redticed to 26. The letts are then traofmitted
to the convener of the 9 incorporated trades, to be bj him
laid before his deacons and their Conftltuents. ^ On the Thurf-
day thefe 9 deacons ailemble in the town-hall^ along with the
a6 old and new counfellors, and proceed to eleft from the
leets» by a majori^^ of votes, the 5 magil^ratesi, the dean of
guild, and the treafurer. Thus, including the three remain-
ing bailies. Who continue in the council without eledlon, a
body of 18 new counfellors is formed for the enfuing year, and
all the former offices expire; On the Tuefday following,
thefe 18 choofe the remaining two*

FrooB this accoititt, it muft be evident, that the formation
of the new council is almoft entirely in the power of their
predcfcefforsi and that a-'fociety, thus c<inftttuted^ is but in a
very fmall degree dependant upon the community, whofe in-
tcrefts are intrufied to their management. No appeal what*
over is made to the guildry, or great body of merchants, who
nay beconfidered aft the 'ari/locracy of the place ; and the on*
]ycontroul the council can receive, in the eledion of thett
fucccflbrs, is froip the deacons of the incorporated trades, who
may be confidered as the reprefeutatives of the people* Un-
leis, however, a confiderable divifion, which feldom happens,
Ihoold take place among the conndsllors, and at the fame time
the deacons remain united, this controul muft be of very lit-
de Gonfequence* Without, therefore, a greater degree both
0f intelligence and public fpirit, than falls to the common lot
of bnmaoity, fuch a Ibciety muft be under ftrong induce*
aents to coafider itfelf as a fraternity diftinfl: from the com-
nnmty; and having different interefts, it will certainly be
fi^jpefted of entertaining fuch perfuafions, and its condufi, e*

F f a fpecially

lat Statiftical Acccunt * *

fpectally when noconttoalable, as at prefent, bjr ftiiy fiipefn#
tribunal, will always be viewed with jealoufy^ and is in daa^
ger of becoming, in feme degree, arbitrarj and interefted.

It would, however, be unjuft not to acknowledge, to the ho-*
Hour of the magiftrates and coaneil of Dundee, that, in many
inftances, the/ hare exerted themfelves with laudable zeal
and fuccefs, in pronnoting the puUic good. The building
and endowing new churches, the paving and lighting ftreets#
the opening new ones, efpeciaHy ft new pafilige to the Ihore^
the building new piers, and the general improreraent of the
S harbour, are works which they have executed within theb

16 or 12 years, and which are both of great importance, and
entitle then to no fmall (hare of praife. Many equally imo
porCtnt, no doubt, yet remain to be done, and fome may have
been neglefied \ but to thefe, ic is to be hoped* aooording as
their revenues may enable them, they will not £m1 to turn
their attention.

The revenues of the town, not appropriated t» partkutnr
purpofes, may amount annually to aiool. If to thefe we
add the revenues of the gnildry, amounting to 80 1. } of the
bofpital, for decayed burghen, amounting to 300 1. ; the funi
•fifing from fome lands, but chiefly from feat rents, for buikU
!ng and repairmg the churches, computed at j881. ; the inte*
teft of money mortified for burfaries and fimilar purpofes, a«
mounting to 60 1. ; and if we alfo include 400 1. levied from
poor's rates \ the members of council will be found to have
under their management an annual fum not much (hort of
4dcol.

While there was a Parliament in Scotland, Dundee was xe^
^refented in it by one member or commiffioner. It is now
only one of 5 boroughs, who, all together, fend but one mem«
ber to the Britifli Parliament ; the other four are Perth, For^
far, St. Andrew^Si tad Conpar in Fifs. Every one of' the

COUQCill

MfefitiU lA tkeir bonmgbs choorcs % itUgaU^ and die 5 dele*
gtces elcQ tbeir reppcfcittative*

EiwlefiqftUat StaU^ if r.*-It is tmpoifiUe toftrcertainy vndk
mKarwDjt the ecckfittUoiRl Ihte of the pari&i previous to the
RelbriiuitioD. Tlie ommber of religious houfes was certainly
greater, than has appeared m any poUtihed accounts of eccto^
fiaftical aati^aities ) hut Ihe ancient writings being in general
loftt nd Che biiiUings conrerted into prirate property, and
tarioufly demolilbed and rebailt, they are now incapable of
beif^ traced. It is probable, that the church dedicated to St.
Cleinant, con^crt^ into a ToltcHtf or town*honre, at the
HeferaMtioB^ and fitvated where the prefcnt town-houfe ftands,
had been the pari(h •church ; and certainly, the area behind
it, now ttfed for a fl)ed*fnarket, and the lanes, by which it is
liirioundedi cempofed the common burying ground* But^
fiaoe the Reformation^ the great one built by David £arl of
HiiailiAgdan« (whiob« when ^ntirCp was one of the largeft and
mott magaificeat in the kingdom), has been the pariffa churcb«
its form was that of a crucifix, with a very noble fquare tower,
or ilecfile, at the weft end, through which was the great en-
try* The height of the tower, which is ftill entire, is 156
feet 'f its area, within the walls, ^^ feet, and without 4a
The length of the nave was xao feet, its height (3, its
breadth 40, and the breadth of each of its ailes 30. The
length of the choir is 95 feet, its height 54, its breaddi
i]^ and the breadth of each of its aiks X4i. The length of the
arola part of the building, which had no ailes, is 174 feei^
and its breaddi 44. According to tradition, this church was
deftroyed by Edward L ; and probably the nave was never
afterwards repaired. What had been repaired was alfo again
deftroyed in £dward VPs time, by the Eoglifli, then in pof.
feffion of Brooghty Caftle } and the deftruftion, either at the
firft orlMoiid tiaie^ appears to have been accomplifiicd by

fire.

£30 Statifiical Account

fire. The crofs part of the building lay oncdTered'till 1588^
when it was again fitted up for ufey by means of general tax*-
ations laid on the inhabitants, by the authority of the town
council, and by voluntary contributions. One of the princi^
pal contributors was captain Henry Lyell of Blacknefs, who»
in an infcription^ (on which are his arms, the fame with thofe
of Lovell)| aflumes the merit of the whole.

At the Reformation^ only two minifiers feem to have been
efiablilhed in the parifh, one called tbi Ftirfoh^ and die otbet
the Vicar. The Scrymfeours of Dudbope^ cpnftables of the
caftle, were patrons of the firft chargCt and the patronage of
the laft belonged to the community. As the eare of the pa^
riih was too laborious for two minifierst Mr^ Jam^s Robert-
fon the vicari on obtaining in x6o8, a fixed ftipeod of 800
merksi refigned to the patrons his vicarage; and^ aboot 1609^
they appointed in his room an additional minifter, Mr* Wil*
liam Wedderbum, who, in 1613, received alio a fixed ftipend^
equal to that of Mr. Robertfon, and gave up to the coundU
the more cafual and infufficient produce of Che vicarage*
Though thefe tranfa&ions do not appear to have been autho^
rifed| by any decree of the Lords of EreftionSy and no confenf
appears to have been either alked or obtained from the pa*
iron of the firft charge, the patronage of both the others was
confidered as the undoubted property of the community. Th^
pariih was thus fupplied with three mintfters^ one drawing
his living from the parfonage teinds, and the other two from
the various funds within the borough ; and they have always
ofiiciated as colleagues in the two places of worihip, the choir
and the fouth part of the crofs building in the ancient churchy
As the inhabitants were found too numerous for being ac-
commodated in two churches, the magiftratjes, in the year 1759^
fitted up the north part of the crofs building as a chapel of
eafe; and the town continuing to increafci they built* ia
1789, a large and bandfome new church, on tbe-fituationof

the

tf Dundee^ it^%

fhe tacient YLvrt ; aod, bj a decree of the Lords of Seffion,
both were erefied iato churches on the eftabliflitnent, for two
cdditiooal ftipendiarj miniilers, who officiate as colleagues iu
both bj turns. As the town-council had, after the Rcto*
lution» acquired the patronage of the firft charge by pur«
chafe, thcj are now confidered as undoubted patrons of all th«
five.

The ftipends of the two ftipendiarj minifterSi on the old
eftabltfliment, are each 140 L' The firft minifter^ (lipend,
including his glebe, and an old allowance fox houfe rent, e^
ceeds thofe of his colleagues a few pounds, No part of it afi
lefts the teinds* of the parifb, except one chalder of meal, anl
another of barlejr, and' 661. 13 s, 4 d* in money. ~ With re-
fftOi to all the three, it is to be obferved, that ao L of eack
fiipend is an addition made bj the council^ onij three years
ago, upon account of the increafed expence of living, andcoiw
tinues no longer than the li^es of each incumbent. The fa«
laries of the two ftipendiarj minifters, on the new «ftabliik«
nnent, are no. greater than zaoL each.

Befides thefe 5 eftaUiflied minifters, two others, ordaineA
and in the communion of the Churdi of Scotland^ officiate \m
two Chapels of Eafe. One of thefe chapels was bniltin 177 a
by the joint exertions of the Kirk-Seffion, and the 9 incorporate
cd and united trades, chiefly by means of donations and chari-
table contributions, and continues under , the management of
thefe focieties. It is as large almoft as any of the other
churches, and its mintfter receives a falary of zool. The
other was buih in 2789, by a feparate congregation of the
Jt#i%/*perfuafion, now, on thdr' own application, received,
along with their minifter, into the church. He receives a
fiipend of 90 1. and the chapel may contain 8oo or 900 peo«
pie. A- third chapel alfe, under the direAioh of the Church
of Scotland, belongs to a congregation of Highlanders, who

have

f^% Statiftical uhcmnt

ftare lacelj enxigrated from their natiTe cQiintC7. Their dco^
gytoaa oiSciates m the Gaelic langua^ is jret unord»io«d^
sod thej have not been able to afford him aay higher Cdaij
than 30 L AU thcle churobe^ and chapeU are confidered ta^
ID one and the fame partfli, 9tul all their miniftera and elder^
compofe only oac Kiik-ScflioQ*

The diiTentiog coogregations, with the number of perfboi^
lieloaging only to thia parifh^ of which thejr <ire in part com«
fofed^ indttding their children nod all occafionml attendant
|iom the pnri(b, according to the accoiinta bj their own mi^
luifiera or principal managers^ are as follows* t. One meet-
ing, of the Seottyb Ept/ccfal £om^ ponfifts of a ckrgymna^ snA
370 perfens. The clergyman is titular Bifi>^ of one of thn
^itciflts into whicb the people of his perfoaiion ace didribut^
fd. a. One Indep^ndeni n^eoting^ of the fed denQtminated
QlqlfiUs^ from the late Mr* Glafi^ bas feveral payors or
ficacherst and 1160 perioas* The preachers, are dillioguiik*
ed in the congregation by the names of Bifl^ and EU^u
3. One meeting of the EngJ^ftf^ Efyh^fml form, confiAs of unt
flergyn^n to^t 42a perCe^. 4. One AMeting of Siddin^ of
^e Bvrgber fonOt has oqe dergyniai^ and 7^4 perions* 5*
Ope of the AtUBurgbtnr fcft has one clnrgyinan, and 659 pec«
^ns« Befides |hete, there are atfo other feparate ibcieties, of
Human CathoUa^ jdndba^ifU^ Bwmnt^ now iaid to be fplit ia*
to three feds, Mttbodift^^ UniiarwUt and IndiptUuUt of ano«
tfaer form. The attendants of all the£e togetiier^ cannot exceed
4C0, fo that t)ie whole number of dtfieaters^ including chil»
dreriy in this^ pariih, amounts to 3784» The f rincipal Inde-
jendeat congregation affacds. a decifive proof of the iinpoc^
taaccr of early marriages to population* It wtaa formed by
Mr. Glafsy abqnt the year 173a, and at that time confifted of
no more than 71 members, m«n.and women* It has now
calleded 1 1(0, and the increase is much more the eflbd of an

indifpenfibjlf

tf Dundee. ajj

Sndifpe&fiUe kw of the focietj, enjoining early marriages, than
.{^ any new accel&oni of proieljtes. Befides the importance
of the law to tjMpnlation, k appears, from tbb ezperimenlp
that it 3ft alfe of the ntraoft confeqaence to pretrent licention£-
Ikeis, and to promote early induflrj. The nfual objeftions of
its tendendy to produce a debilitated race, and to increafe the
number of the poor, appear to be in a great meafnre frivo»
Ions i for, in confequence of the regulations of the (bcietj,
veij few of their poor lure hitherto been bnrdenlbme to
, others, and their yoong people 4^ not ieem to be inferior ta
hcUth or vigonr* .to tho ocdiaarj natives of the town. «

CbarUahle tunis and DififibuHfms.^^T\xt (unds, and annual
diftributions of charitj in Dundee, are very confiderable, and
merit a a^se complete detail, than the writer of ^is artido
is enabled to give* ,Thofe committed to the management of
the Kirk»Seflion are the principal funds ; and^ for the yt%x
1 79 1, were as follows;

.latfftft of owner wm^y^ sad rcatt.af land ftc^urodtr

f«diiaoQ«7» • • • • *I'-95 44

puet lUowed by laW; or cuftotn for marnasQPi - 55 X3 O

Fioet ilfo allowed by law from deluMjaenu, » - i zj e

' Sale of die eflefta of peofioocn after their deaths, • 35 8 j
. CoUeAiemot the dosrt of the 4 chvdief, and the Chapel

rfEaietatheCowgate, • • . ' « JUi40 13 S)

fnaD, • L. ^iSz4 6|

from this fmay the difhibatiooi and other apenditnre were

as follows :
T(0 S43 ibted penfioaers, of whom S96 were enrolled for

Kfct - . , ^ • • . L,53f 9 o

la occaftwial diarities throeyh the year, and to the (ame pea*

HoDcrs 00 three eitraordinary occofiona, to wit, after the
I in the fpring and antuma* and at the begin*

ningoftliCTeir,

» m mm

Cameo ovcTi

'7S IJ 7

vou vra.

I-70*»4 1

934 Statifilcal Account

Braugfat over, L. 706 XJ f

' For onrfiflg orphani, and cUldren deferted by worthlefs pa«

rentifCluefljnatiml children, • * • 95 S •
^or booka and cdncation to poor duldnn»fidadeatDti«cb0Qi
of Cchoola lA the fabiirba» and ftipenda due by bw to tht

miniftcn, from the kirk-ldfiont lands, « « 3 j f 6

To 7 church officers or beadleiy • - • lj.51 • S

|nall,« • - - ^ ^ Uti6 s 9

^ that in the year 1791, the furplns vaib * * I» 9 9f

In die year 179O1 ioftead of a balance tkredf a debt of Sx L
i;s. 7id., had been contiaAed, though the diftribntions weto
85 1. za s. 6 d« lefs. But oi\the intimation of this to the con-
gregations, their colle&ions were immediatel j and cheerfuUj in-
creafed, fo as to prodnce an annual rife of 160 L 17 s. oid.
The confiant weekly allowance to penfioners, as may appear
from the above ftatement, is no greater than 10 ^. and a linall
fraftion, and may perhaps be thought too fcanty. But it
ought to be eonfidered, that it is -an averagie allowance ; that
the greateft part of the penfioners are capable of earning fome<»
thing by their work; that the principal nfe of ftated charities
is merely to fupply the deficiencies of foch earning ; and that,
when they become {o liberal as to render work unncceflaiy,
or when livbg by /charity ceafcs to be diflioaottrabley they
are utterly dcftrufiire of pnidaice» fosefight, fobriety and
economy. ' " - • *

Other fuods, principally or wholely unde; the ipanagement
of the kirk«feiIion Are,

Rents of lands, and fums mortified by Mr. Qilbert Gnthrie,
for educating poor boyi^ . « • - L* X4Q O p

£^boy recedes yearly sl^a. 8d.for 3 years, and aa
mnch when they omL

Similar rpnu by . for the fiupo pwpofe, » - 6f o 0

Other rents for poor widows, and difinbvted among ai of
them, 7 . •- 9 * . 53 14 o

tfOimdeel ' djj

So ihat laflrycar tbe whole funds of charit/, under* the iiia4
aagement of the Kirk-Seffioui amounted to 1083 L 8s.6id«
Thefe funds, particular!/ Guthrie's mortification, will, in »
few jears, be coniideraUy increafed* To tbis^ the principal
part of the 4 acres of land, mentioned as feued at 40 L thd
acre, belongs^ It is to be obferved, that the management and
difpofid of all the feiiions funds cofts not a fingle fitfthing
of expence.

The annual diflributions, from funds under the management
of the Town^Council, or levied hj their authority, are as fol4
lows :

Frem the faoQ»tal fhx decayed biir|^hen| i' d li. 1^0 e o

From the Guildrfi - ^ - - 46 o a

Pdori rates IcYied wfthin the royaltj^ - • -. 400 • o

This laft fum^ after paying the elpence of lerying and
diftribution, was laft year divided among lao penfioners#
It began to be levied only a few years ago, for the avowed
purpofe of fuppreffing beggars. It has not produced this ef«
feft, and| notwithftanding, bas^rifcn from zco 1, to 400 K
Though this tax compels the covetous, and thofe who rarely
attend public worihip, to take fome part in the maintenance
of the poor, and on this account, has the appearance of juf«
tice, it is liable to many objeftions. It tends to impair vo*
Itfntary charity ) it falls as heavily on the moft charitable and
liberal^ as on the covetous and licentious ; by being confin-*
ed within the royalty, it takes no hold on the opulent perfona
in the country patt of the parifh, the proprietors of the land es-
pecially, who profit more by the indufiry of Dundee, than
any other fet of men } at thtf pleafure of any magiftracy, it
may be extended beyond all juft and moderate limits 1 and^
being like their other funds, under their uncontroulable difpo*
fid, may be perverted into an engine of borough politics, and

G g a be«

%^$ Sta^kid Account

fceeome m (utare, a grievous nuiiance. At prdenc, ho^evert
it has prodaced no real or perceptible evib s particularlj it haa*
Hot, as in Eaglandt beconie extravagant and deftrudive to
economy, nor rendered it in any degree more difficult tea
ilrangers to obtain a fcttlement*

Other diftributidlit are.

From die fratcrnicy of fcaioen, - ...

^rom thft general f osd of the 9 lacoqKMated tnulet, -^

^om the part Icular funds of the fame trades, •

V^wn the united and |>eadidc tradet , f appofied»

Vrom fever al public and private fodetiet. fnppofed.

From the Scottiih Epiicopal meeting,

■ ■ English ditto, • • - •

■ ■ Borg^ Seceding ditto, fappoicd,
I Antiburgher ditto, ditto^

!■ I Independent meeting, who, from principle, neither

f give nor l^p any account of their charities,

iappofed, - - - •

I ■ I If" ■! AU the other religious fodeties, (iippoied,

Befides the charities now enumerated, there are aUb hnriariet
«t the univerfity and grammar' fchool, in the gift of the
council, amoonting to, • * • •

Mr. Henderfon's charity fchool for poor children,

A difpeniary, on which was expended lafl year, ^

'Mr. Stephen's mortification for boyi at 8ch«)ol and college,
in the gift of the Prosoft,the minifterofthe Murraygate
difbid, Mr. Dempfter of Dnnnichen, and Mr. Hnater of
BaUkelly, from which there is at prefent paid, • 79 O •

Dr. Brown's mortification, now in the numagement of his
immediate trulEees, whom failing, it devolves on the Kiik«
Seffion, - - - - - 118 o o

3bfiis Oraham's mortification toward* the education of an or«

, phangirl, ajo

390 »3

5^ M

•

X67 19

70 0

3# 0

1% 0

16 •

•5 0

x8 0

300 0

•

40 0

60 0

%S 0

X40 0

L.ZJ60 zz A

80 that altogether, the money hollowed Uft year, in various
(fairitict, amounted t% • - • - L. 21377 5 t

TlM

fft)unaci. 837

The Di^icnfiiry was eftabliibed in 1782. It is entirely fop.
ported by Tolantaiy contributions, and has been of the gregt*
eft iile. The prefident and principal benefaftor is Lord Doag««
la$« Bat the contributions of the remaining heritors, (a verj
few excepted,) either to this or to any other chariuble inftitu^
tions of the place, notwitbftanding all the advantages they de*
rive from it, are hardly worth the mentioning. To the Oi£»
penfary, it is alfo now propofed to add an Infirmary ; and the
liberal and numerous fubfcriptions already obtained, leave
little reafon to doubt, that the putpofe will foon be carried in*
|o execution.

Gtmral €iaraS0r^^The people of Dundee have been for
m long time entitled to the reputation of induftry, regularity
and economy; and» notwitbftanding the increafe of their
wealth and numbers, a juft claim to this reputation ftill co&«
dnues. As their wealth has been almoft entirely the refult
of great attention and induftry, it is preferved by the fame
virtues, and they are ftill ftrangers to extravagant and rui«
nous luxuries. One inftance of economy and ancient finu
plicity of manners, will, in fome parts of Britain, hardly meet
with credit ; that, though we have many burghers, worth
from 5000 !• to 40,000 L there are not in the whole town,
more than 9 male houfehold fervants ; and of thefe, not one
belongs to any perfoo, who can, with propriety, be faid to be
engaged in trade* This economy does by no means exclude
^eerful and frequent fecial intercourfe, or abridge their real
comforts and recreations* It does not even banilh a liberal
hofpitality ; and inftead of leflening their humanity and com*
paflion for the miferable, the people of Dundee are inferior
.to none in generous exertions and contributions, either for the
relief of particular diftrefles and misfortunes, or for the ef«
tablilhment and maintenance of public beoeficeat inftitutions.

The

^3^ Statljicc/t Account

The rife of the Images of labour, his not hithertd ^ro^dfe^
anj confiderable bad e&efis, eveo upon the common people %
but, on the contrary, haa been generally employed to increafe
their lawful comforts, to feed and clothe them better, and to
encourage them in the more early eftabliihment of families )
and the proportion they beftow, in all charitable contributions^
at leaft equals, if not exceeds, that of their fuperiors in optt«
lence* Tet it would be inconfiftent with truth, not to men^
tion, that profperity has introduced among fome, a degree of
licentiouIbeCi unknown in former times ; and one alarming
fymptom of it ought not to be concealed, that, notwithftand«
ing the great accdBons made, iince the year 1788, to the
Qumbef of inhabitants, the number of annual marriage^ 'has
hardly received the fmalleft addition. The people of Dundee
may be alfo charaderifed from their religious habits ; and no
where in Scotland is public worfliip better, or perhaps fo well
attended. Their numerous fe£ls indicate their zeal and at-
tachment to religious principles, and perhaps an excefa of at*
tention to religious controverfies ; but thefe give very little
difturbance to the general harmony, and inftead of increaf-
ing bigotry they feem to weaken it. Though fome feds, not
only on their firft rife but even at prefent, cannot be acquitted of
harih and uncharitable opinions, concerning thofe who do not
adopt their fentiments, mutual toleration evidently prevails i
and each begins to fufped, that the didates of their own par^
have no better claim to infallibUity^ than thofe of others.

As to the general (ize of the inhabitants, it is certainly in-»
JTerior to that of the people in the fouth and weft parts of
Scotland, and even of their neighbours in various parts 61
Fife : and though the linen manufafture be the great fouroe
of their opulence and increafe, its influence does not feem fo
favourable as might be wifhed to health, or friendly to the
prodttdion of a vigorous and hardy race*

Remariablt

RitnarifM Ptrfims and fa^ilu4»-^Amwg remarkaUe
and diftioguiihed peribiis may be- meationed, i. Al£zakd£K
ScRTMSKQUE, QSC of Walla«e's h«roic companicnsy the perlba
to whoi|i» after be bad recovered the town from the Engliibv
he pommitted the redoftion of the caflk, and whom he put in
poflcflioa of the hereditary dignity of conftable : a. Sir Johk
ScRiTMSiiouR one of his defcepdants, who became Vifcoont of
Dudhope, and .adberiag to Charles I. }oft his life in the. bat-
tle of Macftoii Muir : j. £Us fon who followed the fortunes
of Charles II, acoooq>anied him witb a regiment to the bat-
de of Worcefter» and returning with him at the reftorationt
sras created Earl of Pundee. Befides their dignity of confla"
Ue$, the chiefs pf this family were berediuty ftaadardJ>ear«
tn of Scotland. They pontinue to be repreiented by the
jkrymfeonrs of BsrkbiU, now WedderbHms of Wedderbum^
jvho, on the death of the Earl ^f X>iindee, without immediate
lueirsf were nnjuftly ^iled of tlieir honours and inheritancf •
.4, Robert PiTtltLOCK, commonly pronounced V^illoci^ and
•now (pelled Patidlo. In the war^ of Charles VIL of France,
ior the recovery of his kingdom firom the Engliflb, particiilar-
lyin their final eatpulfion firom Gafcony, he acquired tbe
moft fignal honours ; and was the firft captain of the famous
JScottiih guard, then formed, and to whofe fidelity the French
Jungs for feveral centuries committed their perfonal protec
tion. 5* Jambs Haltsurton, defigned on his tomb-fione,
jinde to Halyburton of Pitcurr* To this perfon, his country
3S indebted, as one of the moft early and able promoters of
>he reformation. By his influence chiefly, Dundee became
the fUft town in Scotland^ where the reformed religion was
pp^ly.profefled* He headed the Dundee .troops, who went
CO; the defence of Perth, againft the veogeance threatened by
JMary the regent. By bis able conduft in encamping and cour
during ih^ Proteftant forcesi aflemUed at Coupar, t^e at.

tempt

''ft4o Stait/lical ^ecmaa

tempt of the popifli troops, under the Preneh geoeml D* Ojttl,
to redace St. Andrews and feize the chief leaders of the re«
formation, was defeated ; and bj him and his brother Alex*
toder, at the head of their fellow citizens, one of the princi«
pal attacks againfl the town of Perth was carried on, and the
popifh garrifon diflodged. He was proroft of Dundee for ^3
jears. From gratitude and refpeft to his memory, his foue*
rak were defrayed at the public ezpence ; and, what was then
reckoned a mark of peculiar honour, his grave was lined on
the fides widi mafon-wotk, and arched over, and a monument
cre£ted to his memory. Dundee has alio produced fome per*
'fens of confiderable eminence for fcience* It is believed, that
JoHW Mab, the mutual friend of the great Baron Napier^ in^
'^rentor of Logarithms, and of Mr. Edward Briggs,aod who
brought about, and was prefent en their firft interview at Mow
dhifton, was one of its native atisens. He appears to have
ieen dillmguiihed by James VI. before his fuoceffion to die
SngBlh crown, and to have gone up with him to England ta
the royal houfehold. To another citizen, Jaiixs MAtt pro*
1>ably grandfon of the former, we owe a chart and foundings
of the whole north fea, fo accurate, that, though laid down
about the beginning of the prefent century, it has hitherto re-
ceived few improvements of importance. By him, in parti*
cttlar, the bank, which bears his name, wasdifoovered and ddw
fieated ; and his native town is peculiarly indebted to him for
bis accurate draught and foundings of the enterance into Taj^s
end the whole paflage up the river. The fkmily of thefe
eminent perfons ftill fubfifts. In other branches of literature
we count the well known Hector Boece the hiftorian, who '
was Principal of the King^s College in Aberdeen, and one of
the chief reftorers of learning in his time ; and, in the Ki^m
iumamcreSf Dr. Kinloch, phyfician to Jamce VI. Mr. Gleg,
redor of tfar grammar fchool^ ,and Mr. GouMAKi merchanl.

Somf

^Dundee. 241

Some Latin poems of the three lad are to be foand in the coU
le&ion of the Poeta Scotigena^ which, for tafte as poems, and
elegance as Latin compo&tions, are inferior to no modem pro«
du£lion8*

One of the moll eminent citizens of Dundee, in the end of
the laft, and beginning of the prefent centurj, was its pro«
vofi, George Yjkamak of Murie. This gentleman reprefent*
ed the town in the laft Scotcifli or Union Parliament, and the
diftrift of boroughs, to which the town now belongs, in
the firft and fecond Britilh parliaments ; and to him hie
native country, efpeciallj this part of it, is more in.
debted, than to any reprefentative ever fent from Scotland*
By his good fenfe and addrefs principally, the projefls, of tax-
ing hides by tale^ and barley for malting by mcafure^ (than
which none could have been more injurious to a country,
where the former are fo diminutive in fize, and the latter fo
comparatively mean in quality,) were defeated ; and, when the
Frith of Forth was exempted from the general duty laid on all
coals carried by fea, (a duty which the poor, in countries def.
citute of coal, have feverely feh and bitterly complained of,)
he procured, that the Tay fliould be included within the
bounds of the Forth, and that the legal limits of the mouth
of this river (hould be the Red Head in Angus, and St. Abb*3
Head in Berwickihire. Dundee has alfo had the honour
of being reprefented in many parliaments, by George
DfMrsTER, £fq« of Dunichen, another native citizen* Of
this gentleman's merits from his country, it would be im«
proper in his life time to fpeak, and they cannot be fuppofed
better known to the writer of the prefent memoir, than to all
his counCrymen.

Among the families, who have had their original in Dun*
dee, may be mentioned the truly honourable one of the Flet«
iSHERS of Saltoui diftinguiihed for giving birth to the celebrat-

You VIII. H h ed

242 Stati/ltcal Account

cd and enlighteticd patriot, Andrew Fletcher. They were
fettled in Dnndee as merchants, in the i6th centurj, and pof-
fefled of the lands of InverpeSer near Arbroath ; diftinguiih-
ing themfelres, during the courfe of the 17th centarj, as
magiftrates of Dundee, and like their defcendants, in vin-
dicating its liberties, againft the arbitrary claims and en-
croachments of the £aimily of Dudhope; and from thefe
anceftors, it is probable, that he embibed fome portion of
his patriotic fpirit. He fprung from a fecond fon of this
Dundee family, and his defcendants are now its reprefcn-
tatives, the elder branch having failed fome years ago, by the
death of its laft male. Major Henrt Fletcher of the marines.
Another branch of it is the family of Balinlhoe, which pro-
duced the two brothers, Sir Robert and Colonel Fletcher,
lately diftinguiibed in the Eaft Indies.

The prefent Lord Loughborough, chief juftice of the com-
mon pleas in England, is alfo defcended of a family long ref«'
peSable in Dundee. The chiefs of it were fuccefBvely town
clerks for near 100 years, and frejquently the town's com-
miffioners to the parliament. In this iituation they acquir-
ed the lands of Kingennie and Blackoels, and were honoured
with the title of baronets. This title is now carried by Sir
John Wedderburk of Ballendean, a native of Dundee, and
male reprefeotative of the family.

Advantages and Dif advantages. — The principal advantages
of Dundee arc, — the noble river on which it is fituated, opien-
ing to the inhabitants, a ready communication, not only with
the London market, but with thofe of the principal and mod
opulent countries of Europe ; and alfo giving them a confider*
able extent of inland navigation :— The fertile countries in its
neighbourhood, the Carfc of Gowric efpecially, full of thriv-
ing, rich, and intelligent farmers ; whofe induftry, if it was
fiifft fet in motion by the opulence of towns, and their increaf-

ing

of Dundee. 443

ing demand for country produce, now amply returns the fa-
vour, by equal demands ou the towns for their merchandife
and manufaftures ; — ^The induftry, fobriety, and frugality of
its inhabitants, which virtueSi having been confirmed by long
habit, will probably continue to be reputable for along period
to come. In addition to thefe, it mud draw the mod fignal
benefits from the excellent turnpike roads lately conftrufted,
and continuing to be extended through all the principal dif-
trids of Angus, and the neighbouring parts of Perthlhire,
For thefe the town is entirely indebted to the exertions of a
few country gentlemen ; and though its inhabitants have had
no ihare, either in the trouble or the rilk of the undertaking,
they will be probably the principal Iharers in the profits \ for
their markets inftead of being often ihut up, and becoming
inacceilible, will now be open at all feafons of the year, for the
heavieft goods ; and the people in diftant parts will no longer be
under the necei&ty of repairing to the lefs abundant markets of
inferior towns. But if Dundee enjoys thefe advantages, it is
not without its difadvantages and defers. Among thefe the
following feem to be the mod remarkable : —The lanes, and
even feveral ftreets are uncommonly narrow, and the dwellings
of the inhabitants too clofe upon one another ^— the greateft
part of the families living by half dozens, as formerly in Edin«
burgh, under the fame roof, with common flairs, without
back yards or courts, and many poflefiing only fingle rooms : —
The late additional fuburbs have been built without apy ge« .
neral plan, and without the leaft regard to health, elegance or
cleanlinefs ; though no fituation perhaps in the world, prefent-
ed better opportunities to provide for all the three : — ^There is
an almoft total want of public walks and open places, to whicli
fedentary or delicate people may refort, and children be car-
ried for air and exercife. Several have been, or are about to
be converted to private purpofes : one, which is the beft and
moft important, is generally inaccefUble, through the badnefs

H h a ' of

244 Statifiical Account

of the lane that leads to it ; and, the high roads being defiU
tute of foot paths, thofe who have the greateft need of air,
find themlelves, for a great part of the year, confined to their
houfes, at lead thej cannot get beyond the (treets ; and thefe
circumflances are the more vexatious, that the inhabitants of
the royalty are taxed annually ibout 130 1. for road^fmrnej^ but
find themfelves and their magiftrates totally excluded, in con-
fequenee of a late law, from any diredion in the application
of it :— The principal burying place is too fmall, in propor-
tion to the parilh. The expence of interment in it is confider-
ed by the poorer people as too great. Two of the mod an-
cient burying grounds in the parifh are uninclofed, fo that
thofe, who, for cheapnefs, have recourfe to them, fuSer the
mortification of feeing the remains of th^ir friends treated
with indignity y and, from the ufe of one of thefe, the poor
have, of late years, been totally excluded.— But the greateft
of all the difadvantages of Dundee, is the almoil total want of
public inftitutions, even for the mod fimple and neceflary
parts of education; nor, excepting a reputable grammar
fchool, is there an opportunity for parents to have their chil-
dren infiruded in any branch of human literature ; and this^
defe£t is not fupplicd by any tolerable public library.

Other difadvantages, at lead caufes of difcontent, arife from
the nature of feveral public laws and inditutions. Com-
plaints of this kind are expreffed by the trading people, who
have fuffered lofs in confequence of the law of perpetual
entailsy or who arc expofed to fuffer it. They think, that
properly of every kind ought to be liable for the debts it has
given opportunity to contraft ; that the contrary praftice is
unjud, and the laws which authorife it, nothing different from
licences to a /pedes of fwindltng. Befides the afionilhing
quantity of land in the neighbouring parts of the country,
brought, of late, under this kind of fcttlement, it is believed,

that

•/Dundee. >14^

that fhe proportion of this parifli» fub}e£ted to it, is not much
lefs than 3000 1. a-jear. — Some complaints are alfo made oa
the fnbjeft of the late com iaxv^ as tending to diminilh the
freedom of trade in this important article, and tQ render it
more precarious. The merchant alleges, that, while his Ihip
is at fea, he is not fure whether the port, to which, from con-
fidence in the law, he ordered his com, maj not, by procla-
mation be ihttt up: and certainly it has been attended
with fome confiderable inconveniencies ; for, during the laft
fpring, ieed-com, even from England, though often of theut-
moft importance to this country, and various articles of
houfehold provifion, which the country does not yet fupply,
were, by its operation* laid under an abfolute prohibition^ or
a duty which, with equal efficacy, prevented importation. The
iotercourfe for com was not at that time permitted, even with
the county of Fife, from which we are feparattd only by the
river; and at the prefent time, (November the zith 1792,)
though the harveft has been bad, and the price of grain con-
fiderably raifed, two veiTels with grain and meal, one of which
lies in the harbonr, and the other is daily expeSed, will not
1>e permitted to unload their cargoes. Befides tbefe com-
plaints, though the people here are happily free from the
coal ditty^ to which their more northern neighbours are fub-
jeded, it is only from the duty on Scottifli coal ; and the
prefent fudden advance in the price of this article, from 4 s.
to upwards of 6 s. for 800 weight, muft, while they are not
relieved by importations from England, be feverely felt by all
the poor. — ^Wxth refpeft to the difcontents, which prevail
in Dundee, about the itate and mode of the reprefentation of
the people in parliament, and that they are governed by a
magiftracy in a great meafure independent on them^ thefe are
not peculiar to this place, but common to it with all the towns
in Scotland.

One

Af^ Statiftical Account

Oae difadvantage of Dundee ari£es from its fituation, and
hardly admits of a proper remedy. It is the diftance at which
it is placed from any large frefh water river, with falls fu£-
ficient for moving the various machinery, now fo important
to manufa&ures. The neareft falls of this defcription are
on Dighty, and in the parilh of Monyfieth j but they are
too diftant for derivbg full advantage from the population
of Dundee.

Mifcellaneous Ob/ervations. -^In the year 1782, the corns
were much damaged by exceiUve rains, the harveft was not
completed till towards the end of November, and a confider«>
able dearth followed. The inhabitants, however, exerted, on
this occafion, their ufual generofity ; and at one time, with a
view of alleviating the diftrefs of the poor, the fum of 200 h
was raifed in the fpace of two days. But the intention of
xaiiing this fum was much more laudable,'than the application
of it. It vfzs employed, together with the produce of other
funds, in keeping the market prices of grain below the com-
mon rates of the country, a benefit in which the rich, and
they who had no need, were partakers equally with the poor ;
and the confequence was, that they who had grain to fell, car-
ried it to other markets, which were free from fuch timid and
impertinent regulations, and where they received their prices
immediately from the buyers, without having the trouble of
applying, for any part of them, to truftecs of public money.
Accordingly, the fupply of the Dundee market, as might have
been eafily forefeen, was, through the whole feafon, fcanty
and difEcult ; and depended entirely on the influence the
magifirates could exert with country gentlemen, and the more
opulent dafs of farmers. Even the fupply of many families,
who were not under the necel&ty ci going daily to market,
became a bufinefs of confiant and vexatious folicitation. The

people

of Dundeel i/^j

Tpeopk of Aberdeen, where the dearth was greater, are faid to
have aAed much more wifely, bj raifing the market price of
grain, and to have advertifed large premiums to every importer
of it ; and we are told, the coofequence was, that their market
was filled as well as in the ordinary times of plenty ; and the
prices, of necei&ty, foon fell to their proper leveL A fmall
quantity of the provifion made by government, for the poor
of the northern parts of this ifland, was alfo at this time allot-
ted to Dundee ; and the Kirk-SefEon received fome unfolicit-
ed donations, amounting to 60 1, for the poor under their in-
fpe&ion. In thefe, the fhare which Lord Douglas, accor4ing
to his ufual humanity, contributed, was no lefs than 50 L

In the two former centuries, the prices of various necef-
faries of life, as meal, malt, ale, leather, ihoes, &c. were regu-
kted by the magiftratesand council ; and in making, altering^
. and executing their regulations, they created much vexation
to the dealers, and much ufelefs trouble to themfelves. The
price of no neceflary of life is now regulated in this manner,
except of bread made from wheat flour j and neither does the
attention of the magiftrate to this article, feem to be of much
greater ufe, than it was to the others, where it has long been
laid afide ; nor, though it (bould be fuppofed of ufe, does the
method of regulation adopted here feem to be advantageous.
On the contrary, it is perhaps the very reverfe of what it
ought to be ; for the price of bread, concerning which all are
judges, remains fixed, and the weight, which few have oppor-
tunity to examine, or even fometimes to know, is variable.
It is probable, that were this bufinefs freed from the influence
of corporation laws, it might be as fafely as any other com-
mitted to the management of thofe engaged in it ; and, that
by their feparate interefts and competition, it would be equal-
ly guarded from combination and abufe. Indeed, no corpora-
tion laws whatever feem to be entitled to much refpefi ; all

of
I

^4^ Statlftical Account

of tbem tend| more or lefs,4o create monopolies againft tbe pulK
lie ; nor iq they always promote the good of tbe very focieties
they were meant to favour. The prices of admiiEon to the ez-
ercife of any buiinefs in Dundee, though not fo extravagant as
in other places, particularly in Aberdeen, are, noiwithftand«
ing, taxes frequently found to be inconvenient. A merchant
pays to the Guildry for freedom to himfelf and his pofterity,
8 L 6 s. 8 d. and^ half this fum for freedom to himfelf only ;
an apprentice to a merchant pays 1 1. ; a handycraftsman 8 1«
6 s. 8 d. for admii&on into any of the 9 incorporated trades ;
and, except at the times i|)propriated to public marketSf no
granger can, without a confiderable tax, expofe his goods to&le
for a fingle day.— Of perfons belonging to Dundee, who have
been condemned, banifbed their country for life, or executed^
upon account of felonies, the writer of this account cannot,
after much inquiry, find more than ihnt during tbe whole
courfe of the pte&nt century. Since Bridewells^ or penitenti«
ary houfes, have been eftabliflied in Edinburgh and Glafgow,
Dundee has been much more peftered than formerly, with va*.
grants and perfona of doubtful chara&er, zaifmindling and
petty thefts are more frequent. This will probably produce
a Bridewell in Dundee. An efiablifliment of this kind is
certainly neceflary, and the common prifons, and prefent in«
fli&ions of juftice, are by no means fufficieut to fupply its
place. With refpeft to our prifons, though among the bed
in Scotland, they are deftitute of any court or area where the
prifbners may enjoy the open air. This, however, is at pre*
fent, the leCs necelTary, as the laws of the country are fuppof<p
ed inhumanely, to exclude debtors from the privilege of
breathing the fame air with others ; and, it is but very fel-
dom, that felons fufier long confinement, in the prifons of
places not vifited by the Circuit Courts of Judiciary.

In this town, there are feveral public buildings \ but, ex«

ceptmg

9f Dundee. 249

ceptiog tb« ancieDt church aod fieeple formerly defcribedt the
ipire of the chapel in the Cowgate, and the town^boufe, none
of them feems, as a piece of archite&ure, to be entitled to '
much attention. Th^ laft is certainly a building of uncom*
mon tafte and elegance. It waa planned by the elder Adams^
aod does him honour.

Among the regulations imfavourable to the freedom of the
market, and confequently to the interefts of the inhabitants,
thofe might have beeninentioned which relate to the trade in
«oals. There are only 4 births, or places at which TefTels
loaded with them are permitted to deliver their cargoes ; and^
if thefe places are occupied, all other veflels, however great
the demand may be, are excluded^ and muft continue (hut up,
unlefs the cargoe (hould be fold in wholefale to one perfon, or
unleCs the ma&er, if he means to retail, will confent to fell
below the current price. The firft occupiers, accordingly,
muft reduce their prices, or fee their rivals carry o£f all their
cuftomers. The intention of this regulation was, no doubt, to
prevent any unfair rife of prices from combinations among
the mafiers. But its real cffecl is to iocreafe the riik and ex-
pence of the trade, and to induce thofe who are engaged in it
to have recourfe to other ports, rather than fell at a diminifh-
cd profit, or at a lofs. Perhaps there is no branch of bufinefs,
wherein thofe intermediate dealers, often branded in law by the
names oiforeftaUers and rtgretters^ would be more neceflary,
or where the encouragement of fuch would tend more to the
general benefit. When the importer muft alfo turn retailer,
the time in which he fliould be fetching a new cargo is loft,
and he brings fewer coals in any given period to market \ and
he and all his fliips company muft be paid for their time, in-
flead of one regretter. ^

In the foregoing account, there are, no doubt, many articles
emitted; particularly the brev)ing zni Jbi^-Jfuilding xn!3iXi}ii^,C'

Vol. VIII. I i tures

250 . Statijlical Account

turc8. In the firft, a numerous company is now engaged, but tha
chief part of the bufinefs is in the hands of particular brewers,
denominated by the legal term of viduaUers. Of thefe, there
are 66 mafters, who employ 63 journeymen and apprentices.
They make their own malt, and brew it into that kind of
drink called Two-pennyf which, till debafed in confequence of
multiplied taxes, was long <he favourite liquor of all ranks
of people in Dundee. It was .a liquor neither much boiled
nor leniientedy and always ufed within two months after be-
ing made— Shipbuilding is faid to be executed here with
great advantage and ingenuity. In it two mailers are em-
ployed, with 31 journeymen and apprentices ; and 6 are epi<«
ployed t^y two boat-builders*

ofCromdoIe. 2^1

NUMBER XII.
PARISH OF CROMDALK

(Counties of Moray and Invernefs. — Prejbytery of Alerm
nethy^Synod of Moray. ^

By the Rev* Mr. liwis Grant.

Origin of the Name,

CROMD ALE is derived from tbe Gaelic language, Crom
fignifjing crooked, and dale a meadow $ which is liter-
ally explained bj the river Spej, making a femi-circle, or
half moon, in the place where the manfe and church are built*
Cromdale ha^been rendered pretty famous all over^Scotland»
by the fong compofed in confe^uence of a battle fought there,
in the year 1690, betwixt the adherents of King William,
commanded by Colonel Livingfiou, and the fupporters of the
boufe of Stuart, headed by Clavers, commonly called Lord
Vifcount Dundee ; and whereid King William's party pre-
vailedf killing and taking prifoners great numbers of the
enemy. This adion is (aid to have put a flop to any farther
bloodibed on that fcore.

I i 2 'Extent

252 Statifitcal Account

. Extentf Soil and Surface. — The extent of it is very confider-
able, bebg fullj 13 Scotch miles in length, and generally ^
or 4 miles broad, in the old inhabited country ; but on ac«
count of the late improvements, which are very numerous, the
breadth, in' fome parts, is no lefs than from 6 to 7 miles. The
foil is generally dry and thin, with the exception of fome
flats or low haughs, dofe by the river Spey, which, in point
of natural fertility, are equal to thofe near the fea fide, which
is 20 miles diftant from every part of this pari(h. An hun-
dredth part of the lands of Cromdale is not arable, or even
green, fo as to render it fit for pafture to black cattle or hor«
fes. The hills and level grounds are generaUy covered with
black heath, having fcarce any mixture of grafs connefied
with it. Though thefe circumftances quickly difcover them-
felves to the ftranger and traveller, from the unpleafant afpeft
the country at firft fight exhibits, yet thefe prejudices are foon
removed, when a pertbn, adverts to the utility and confequence
of places, formerly, in a great meafure, thought barren and
ufelefs, now rendered produdi ve of the greateft fource of na-
tional wealth, by the flocks of flieep, which every where co-
ver the face of the country ; and which are now triple the
number they were a few yeari ago, as well as proportionally
increafed in point of value. The plantations of fir, which are
numerous, and are thriving faff, will foon have a good effeft
in fetting ofi" the country to very great advantage.

Situattan^ Climate and 2)^/z/J/.— The parifli lies within the
counties of Invernefs and Moray, in almoft an equal propor-
tion, fome parts of it, lying next to Invernefs, being of the
ihire of Moray, and feme of thofe lands, neareft to Forres and
Elgin, belonging to the county of Invernefs. This feeming
confufion mult have originated from the intereft the difier-

ent

of Cfomdak. 253

cn^ proprietors, (who held the lands of this country, when
ihires were firft formed,) had in the principal towns fixed
upon as head burghs. Cromdale is generally allowed to be
cztremelj wholefome. Few epidemical di&afes happen in it.
There are many inftances of longevity as far as 90, and
there are not a few, even beyond that age. Dr. Buchan, au-
thor of the Family Phyfician, had occafion to be in this part
of the country fome years ago, when he very judicioufly re-
marked, that every man's houfe was built upon a rock, mean*
ing, that every man had a dry gravelliih fiance whereon to
found his houfe ; which, the Dodor obferved, is more condu-
cive to health, than all the benefits that refult from medicine*
Inoculation univerfally takes place with great fuccefs. All
prejudices on the fcore of predeftination^ are now happily re-
moved.

River and Fi/b, — ^The river Spey is the only one which
runs through this parifti. From its rapidity every where, it
is allowed, that more water flows from it, than any other
river in the kingdom. It is diftinguiihed for vail floats of
wood, which cover its banks, and are daily carried down by
its waters to the fea. Sir James Grant's woods of Abeme-
thy and Duthel, with thofe of Rothiemurchus, lie contigu-
ous to the Spey, and cover a boundlefs trad of country.
The Spey was once famous for falmon, all over that extent
of country, through which it paffes ; b.*t, by a late decifion of
the houfe of Peers, an exclufive right was given to the Duke
of Gordon, by means of Cruives^ and all other human devices,
to monopolize this article at the fource of the river ; which of
late years has been efieded with fuch fuccefs, that few falmon
are to be got a fliort way up the country ; and j^it the gentle-
men of property, hurt by this decifion, allow the wood

belonging

^54 Statiflical Account

belonging to this familj, which often proves injurious ttf
their arable ground, to pals without the lead moleftation.

Animals. — The white hare is frequently got in this parifli
during winter. It is as white as fnow, and the ears are
tipt with black. Roes, black cocks, and heath hens are
very numerous. Horfes ufed for work, were, fome years
ago, generally bred in the country \ but now, owing to the
flocks of Iheep, which confume the growth of the common
pafture, they are generally purchafed, and at a very advanced
price. Farmers, on this account, have reduced their number,
ufing only two in place of four^ carrying on a deal of their
labour with oxen, which they employ in the draught as well
as in the plough. Black cattle are very numerous : they
amount to 4000 or 50CO within the pdrifh, while iheep may-
be reckoned from 10,000 to 1 2,000. Goats were once nume-
rous, but now the pariih could fcarcely mufter 200 of them.
The wool of our iheep is depreciated on account of the mix-
ture of black hairs, which is afcribed to the attempts to im-
prove the breed in point office. The quality of it far exceeds
^at of Badenoch wool, which is afcribed to the iheep being
fed upon pure heath \ and the connoifleurs in mutton attribute
an uncommon fine flavour to iheep fed in this manner.

Rent and Proprietor s.-'^Thc real rent of the pariih, of
which Sir James Grant of Grant is the fole proprietor and
patron, is confiderably beyond 2000 1. a-year. Castle
Grakt, the feat of his family, is within its bounds. His
men of buiinefs afiirm, that they are in poiTeiBon of writings,
which afcertain their refidence there for upwards of 500 years,
without any failure in the male line all that time ; and though
they have had the property of the whole pariih, for about 200
years i yet prior to this, it was divided among different heri*

tors*

of Cromdak. ^^i(

jtors* The price of the acre of arable land, when feued, is
generally from 81. to 12 1. Sterling, without reckoning any
thing for grafs or common pafturage.

Cultivation and Produce, — The union of farms is frequent.
One man now occupies as much land, as was, 40 years ago,
poflefied by 5 or 6 families; The principal crops coniifl of
oats, barley and rye. The tail has, of late years, been in n6
high eftimation, from the effefl it has in fcourging the ground.
Wheat is fown here occafionally in fmall quantities. Tur-
oips and potatoes fucceed to a wifli. Potatoes, in a fliort
time, will conftitute the one half of the people's food. Sown
grafs is every where to be met with, and very luxuriant crop$
arife from it. The lime quarries are opened by the pro-
prietor. The country abounds with them. The boll of lime,
which meafures 24 Scotch pints each iirlot, is fold at 8 d. per
boll. It is neceffaiy to make this diftindion, as the Banff.
fhire boll is lefs by a third. A lint mill is ereded by the
proprietor, and moft people fow flax with fuccefs. A bleach-
field is juft eftabliflied, which bids fair to be of great advan-
tage to the country.

Population. — ^There is not a iingle feftary of any denomi-
nation in the pariffa ; the whole people being of the eftab-
liflied church. The number of fouls belonging to the parifli,
may be ftated at 3«oo, but many of them go occafionally
fonth, during the fummer feafon, to work at roads, and other
public works, which » renders the amount fluduating. The
return to Dr. Webfter, in 1755, was 3063 fouls. The births,
^t an average, for the years 17359 1736 and 17371 w^re 80
fach year : for the 3 laft years, they did not exceed 6o.
ih-*The marriages are from zo to xa in the year. The

deaths,

' f 5^ Statyikal Account

deaths, from the circamfiance, that there are 3 different church^
yards in the pariih, can by do means be afcertained*

Churchy School and Poor. — ^The living betwixt fiipend and
element money is 75 1. Sterling- There is no vidual rent.
There are two glebes in the parifli, which might be let, as
the value of both, at 7 1. Sterling a-year. The manfe was
built 70 years ago, and has been different times repaired fince.
The offices were lately rebuilt, and are in good order. The
church is plaiflered, being finiihed off with great tafte* The
number of begging poor exceeds 20, but thefe go feldom from
the bounds of this country* Some times 30, or even 40, re«
ceive a part of the public funds. Many of thefe are reduced
boufeboldcrs, who would ilarve r^her than beg. When any
perfon 19 reduced by accident, or fome fevere diftemper, to
poverty, the method pradifed for their relief, is ,by a general
colledion ; and in juftice to the people, if mud b^ laid, that
their liberality, on all fuch occafions, far exceeds what might
be expeded. There are np' other funds befides the public col-
ledions, which, at an average amount from loL to 15 1* Ster*
ling a- year. Much depends on the price of cattle, and the
jSide of vidual, which is more or lefs according to the feafon.
When the family of Grant refide at Caftle Grant, which, for
fome time paft, has been pretty much the cafe, the collediou
has thereby been much enlarged, as they conftantly attend
public worfliip, in all feafons of the year. Their beneficence
makes every one delicate to giving them trouble, «a every ob*^
jed of diftrefs, within their reach, experiences their charity.

JLMguage.-^liht common people fpeak the Gaelic tooguci
but the Engliih is the prevailing language, which they pro**
Bounce with great propriety, and with very little of the brogue.

• ^fCrbrndaitk isj

tti all the pariflies fouthward from this, the Engliih alone is
fpoken> but here, both languages are preached daily. In
a few years hence, the £ngli(h will be the only langoage,- as
the people ardently wiih their children to read the fcriptures ;
9od for this purpofe, often^ in the winter, 4 or 5 fchools are
employed at once in the parilh at their own expeoce.

5^&Do/.-»The parochial fchool is taught at Crotndale. The
ialary is 200 merks, paid by the heritors. The emolu-
ments of the fchoolmafter, as fei]ion-clerk» with dues of bap-
tifms, &c. amount to 3 L or 4 1« Sterling, belides fchool fees.

^^^jrtf..^Orantown is a village erefted under the influence
of the Grant family, it being little more than 20 years, finge
the place, where it (lands, was a poor rugged piece of heath*
It now contains from 300 to 400 inhabitants, fome of whoni
are as good tradefmen as any in the kingdom. Shoe-
makers, taylors, wearers of wool, linen, and (lockings,
blackfmiths, wrights, mafons, and X2 merchants keep re«
gular (hops in it. There are 2 e(tabli(hed fchools* One
of the teachers has 301. Sterling of falary, exclufive of the
emoluments arifing from his office ; lol. of whi^h he has by
Ivay of gratuity from Sir James Grant ; 10 1. as the intereft of
mortified money, from the pre(bytery of the bounds ; and xo U
from the Society for propagating Ckriftian Knowledge ; with tti
excellent dwelling houfe at Sir James Grant's expence. The
boys are taught reading, writing, accounts, Latin, and French*
They amount to irom 30 to So, and they excel in reading the
Engliih language grammatically. There is another fchool ef«
^abliflied in the town, which is taught by a woman. Young
children to the number of 30 or 40 condantly attend, and are
not only initiated, by her in ,tbe firit principles of letters, but
, Vol. VII. K k the

^^S Statjfiical Acciunt

tbe joung girls receive, under her, a fduodation in the vari-
ous branches of female education. A brewery was eftablifh-
ed in this place immediatelj at the firft building of it, on
purpofe to keep the people from drinking fpiritous liquors,
and it continues to give fatisfafiion* Two bakers carry on
the buiinels of their profeffioa with fuccefs. Butcher meat,
beef, mutton, pork, &c. generally fell at from af d. to 3 d. per
pound, fowls at 6d. and 7d* each, butter at 10 s* and za s.
die ftone, and cheefe according to its quality. There are two
or three public houfes in it, with an elegant town-houfe,
covering a prifon, agreeable to the jurifdiftion aA, under the
fanftion of the iheriff of the bounds. Though it has been
built for fome years, yet few have been confined within its
walls, which is a high proof of the good behaviour of the
people. Grantown is, on all hands, furrounded with moft ex*
eellent mofles, aflbrding peata of the beft quality ; the aflies
of which, when mixed with lime, make good manure for po-
tatoes, greens, and cabbages. All kinds of roots are to be met
with here, in vaft quantities,, and to as great perfeftion, as in
Inypart of the kingdom ; which, from its former barren Rate,
is an inconteftible proof, how far the country at large is capa-
ble of improvement.

Roadft Wages^ Fueif \ic4 — The ftatufe work goes on very
punAually, without the finalleft murmur. Stone bridges are
ereded over almoft every rivulet, either by the proprietor or
the county -, and of courfc, the roads are in the higheft orden
The wages 6f fervants have iacreafed, of late years, at a moft
amazing rate. Six pounds Sterling are commonly given to ca-
pable men fervants in the year, exclufive of maintenance. Wo*
men have generally 40 s. Sterling of wages in the year. Got-
fersy or married fervants are feldom employed, as the bulk of

thft

if Cromdak. 25 j

llie people manage their farms with the help of their children*
The high wages of men fervants we attribute to the floating
of wood, which finds bofinefs for all our men, from 16 to 60
jears of age, who, during the warmfeaibn, receive from i s. to
f s. 2 d. for each dajs labour. Fuel is every where to be had^
on eafj terms, and of the beft quality, through the whole of
Xbis country.

Tov^nif.— 'Many public houfes, by the general refolution of
the counties concerned, have of late been fuppreffed ; and
there are at prefent only 4, befides thofe mentioned in Gpan«
town. Two of thefe are on the turnpike road, for the accom-
modation of travellers*

Antiquities. ^"Tht only antiquity in the parilh, is the For-
ialix at Lochindorb, where a thick wall of mafon work, (ao
feet high even at this period, and fuppofed to have beea
much higher,) furrounds an acre of land within the Loch, with
watch towers at every comer, all entire. The entrance to
this place, is at a gate built of freeftone, which has a gran-
deur in it, that is eafier felt than ezprefled. Several veftiges
of houfes are found within ^e walls, befides thofe of a church,
which, without difficulty, can ftill be traced in the ruins.
Crreat rafts, or planks pf oak, by the beating of the waters
againft the old walls, occafionally make their appearance; which
jconfirms an opinion entertained of this place, that it had been
a national bufinefs, originally built tipon an artificial ifland.
Tradition fays, and fome credit is due to the report, that the
particular account of this building was lofl in the days of
King Edward I. of England.

CbaraBer of the Peofle^m^Thej are very induftrious, oblige
i^g, and remarkable for nothing fo much as neatnefs of drefs

K k a at

a6o Statlfiical Account ^

at kirk and market, agreeable to their rank in life. The woif
men have long been diftinguifhed among their neighbours for
making ^ebs, particularlj thofe of the woollen kind ; and for
great cleanlinefs in their houfes, which were formerly built -
of feal or turf, and lined with wood. But the praftice now,
with all farmers in eafy circumftances, is to have their houfe^
built of flone and lime, with glafs windows, &c« amd theb
barns and kiln of the fame materials.

NUMBER XIII.
PARISH OF TOUGH.

^County and Synod of Aberdeen. — Prejbytery of Alford^
By Mr. AuxANBER Urqjthart.

Name^ Situation^ and Extent.

THERE is no tradition, nor any record, that this pariih
has had aqy other name than its prefent one. It is
pretty evident, that it is of Gaelic eztradion. Thofe ikill*d
in that language fay, that it fignifies Northward^ or a place
vvith*a northern ezpofure, which is the more probable, as
there is a range of hills, ivhich run from the fouth eaft to the
fouth weft comer of the parifli, and which fcreen it from the
fouth and fouth weft. It is faid, that Towie, the namie of a
neighbouring parifh, has the fame fignification, for which the
lame reafon may, with much propriety, be aiSgned. Both
names are pronounced in the Gaelic, with fomewhat of a gut«
tural found, as if they were written ^oua. The names of
many of the farm towns are purely Graelic. The parifti is
about 22 miles diftant from Aberdeen. Its length from S.
to N. is about 5 miles, and its greateft breadth about 3. Its
form would be almoft triangular; did not a confiderable part

$/$$ Statijlical Acctmnt

of the pariih of Lochell interfeA it, fo as to divide it into tw»
parts, though rather imequaL

Surface^ Soil^ ClimaU and HiJeafes.^-'^Yh^ general appear^
ance of this diftrid, can neither be (aid to be fiat nor hiUjr*
There are in it, feveral rifing gronnds, but they are moftly
arable. The ridge of hilk, which (helter it from the eaft,
fonth, and fouth weft, naturally oqcafioo a pretty large bot*-
tom to the north, where there is no intervening hill between it
and Keig« The foil is in general of a light nature, in many
places very fhallow, and abounding with ftnaU ft ones. It is,
however, in fome places, particularly in the fame grounds^
very deep, mixed with mofs and extremely fertile. The air
is, for the moft part, dry and iieakhy. Several mineral fprings
have been difcovered, which <J1 feem to run 'upon iron ore*
They have * not been tried in any diftemper. The difeafea
which are moft frequent, in this and the neighbouring parifti*
es, are of the a,cnte kind. Many of the labouring people
have been afflifted with pleurtfies ; but if the patients are let
blood in proper time, they foon recover.

Produ€t^ Cattle and Cuttivation.— The annual crops are oats
and barley. In ordinary years, the parifli does more than fup-
ply itfelf with provifions. The farmers fend t good deal of
meal to the Aberdeen market. The oats are generally fown
between the middk of March and middle of April, and the
crop is generally reaped between the ift of September and the
end of October. There were lately found to be 625 black
cattle, 1471 iheep, and 113 horfes in this pariih. The tenants
pay confiderable attention to the rearing of blaek cattle ; and
this attention has been fufficiently rewarded, by the high prtcea
which they have brought for feveral years paft. There are
37 ploughs in the pari& $ but many of thefe are rather infig-

nifican^

of "Tougb. «6^3

nificanty being formed by a jundion, of two or three fmalt
crofters, who make up a joke among them. There are 52 carts^
but manj of thefe are alfo very fmall. There are not above
1 1 houfeholders, that can properly be denominated farmers*
Many of the farms are now divided into fmall partitions,
which are here called crofts, on each of which there is a houfe
and family. It is now fo expeniive to flock a confiderable
farm, that fettling upon crofts, is become much more com-
in<)n than formerly. Within thefe 5 or 6 years, two farms
have been very much improved by a rotation of crops. One
of them, the greateft part of which is in the hands of the pro«-
prietor, has been improved by lime, which he brings from
Aberdeen. About a fifth part of that farm, was, feme time
ago, let on leafe to an induftrions tenant, who purfues his land*
lord's plan; For this part, he pays more than the old rent
of the whole farm ; and yet, it is faid, that he is no lofer
by the bargain. The people now begin to be more fenlible
of the advantages refulting from raifing turnips ; and one may
obferve a fioiall fpot of them in tlie corner of almod every
croftfman's field. The late Mr. Byres of Tonley, was the
firft who fowed turnips in the fields in this diftrift. He was
alfo the firil who had a cart in it about 40 years ago. His fon,
the prefent proprietor, has of late very much improved his
eflate. The barren muirs, and dry foil, are employed m raif-
ing plantations of fir, which are alfo intermixed with almoft
every other fpeeies of wood common in this part of the coun-
try. Some of thefe plantations are about i a years old, and
are in a moft thriving condition. They will not only add
very much to the value of the eftate, but alfo to the beauty
of the neighbourhood. There are in thefe plantations, three
natural dens, through each of which runs a fmall rivulet.
Through thefe the firs, larix, birk, and oak, make a moft de-
lightful appearance. One of thefe dens by nature forms a

beautiful
6

ft54 Stati/lical Account

beautiful bafon, which the proprietor has fille() with water*
There are, in this bafon, 3 or 4 rifing grounds, which the wa-
ter does not coven Thefe are planted with various kinds of
wood and fhrubberjr. From many points Of view, this forms
a very pleafing (heet of water. The proprietor intends to put
ft boat upon it, fo as occafionally to afibrd a pleafing fource of
amufement, and a healthy ezercife. That gentleman, fince
bis return from abroad, has begun to put lime, in cdnfiderable
quantities on his arable ground, and his fchemes of improve-
ment are profecuted with vigour, fpirit and fucceis.

Heritors^ Reni^ \ic. — ^There are 6 heritors, none of whoai
has refided for fome years paft, Mr. Byres only excepted. For
the laft 30 years, he lived chiefly at Rome, where he was well
known, and defervedly efteemed^ for his tafte, learning, and
integrity. There has been tio change of property thefe 50
years, except a very fmall eftate, which has been once or
twice fold within that period. Kincraigie one of the principal
cftates, was difpofed of fome years ago by a judicial {ale ;
but the proprietor having thrown in many objedions to the
(ale, there is no faying how, or when it will be finally fettled4
The valued rent of the parifh is 1670 1. 14 s. Scotch. Thof
teal rent does not mUch exceed 600 L Sterling.

Population. — It is thought that the population has increafed
within thefe %o years, though there is a fmall decreafe fince
2755, when the return to Dr. Webiler amounted to 576
fouls. The only caufe to which the late increafe can be at-
tributed» is, the fubdivifion of farms, which has augmented
the number of fettlers. The whole population, about x%
months ago, amounted to $60. Of thefe, there were, —

Males,

TougB. ^65

l*fcto, i

^55

Mafter wrightt, *

^emalcflf

305

Apprentices, ditto^

-♦ 3

Under 10,

- 118

Blackfmith, .

- .X

Between 10 and 20,

- 84

Mailer taylors.

- 415

Taylor apprentice.

•A ^*.j M^

xox

Mailer weavers,
Weaver apprentices,

- 3

" above 80, * » Merchants or ihop keepers, - 3

lliis diftrift has afforded fome inftances of longevity. Mr.
DurnOy a proprietor in this parifli, died about 20 years ago,
in the io6th year of his age. One of the name of McGregor,
died *ih the Kirk Town, aged 105. As no regular regifter
of deaths has been kept, the annual average cannot be afcer*
tained with that ezadnefs which could be wiihed for ; but,
it is fuppofed, it will not exceed 9, during the lad ten years.
The annual average of births is about 15, and of marriages
'5. The only .diiTenters in this diftrid are Seceders, of the
Burgher perfuafion, of whom there are 127, including all the
children of thofe whofe parents are Seceders *<

Church and School.'^Tht minifter's flipend is 4 chalders of
victual, one third bear, and two thirds meal, and 44 1. 14 s;
with a roanfc and glebe of (is acres. Sir William Forbes of

Vol. VIII. L 1 Ciaigievar

* It may not here be improper to give fome account of their origin in this
pariih. In the year I766, the miniiler was deiirous to introduce the new me-
thod of finging, ^hich he found acceptable to many of his pariihiooers. It wal,
lioweTer, violently oppofed by othcri* The piimiler, notwithftanding, periiiled
in his dcfign ; and this occaiioned a fchifm among his hearers. The rage of the
opponents was furious. They foon began to think of revenging themfelvcs
by leaving the kirk. When the party was fufficiently formed, they built a
church, and ahoufe for a nilnifter, who was foon procured. What is remark-
able, isfthat thefe very Seceders have iince adopted the new mode of finging,
jwh^ch was the fole fource of the original rupture. Their prefent miniiler is the
fecond, who has held that office. He is a very focial'good fort of a ma6, and
difcovers a confidcrable degree of moderatiua.

266 Stati/lical Account

Craigievar is patron, and titular of the teinds. The churdl
was built in 1737, and the manfe in t^j^i. A new fet of of*
fices was built in 1790, with a date roof, the firft that has
been fo well fini(hed in the county of Aberdeen. The heri-
tors, however, in feveral other parifhes^ being convinced,
that this is by far the moft durabk, and confcqnentlj, upoB
the whole, the cheapeft roof, there is little doubt, when re«
pairs are found necefiary, but that this mode will be adopt-
ed* The fchoolmafler's fahrj is 100 merks. He has alfo I L
7 s« Sterling,, paid him as Scdion-Clerk. For fome years paft^
the number of fcholars has been very fmalL The fees for
teaching are 2 s. 6 d. for Latin, 2 s. for arithmetic, x s, 6 d. fos
reading and writing, and x s^in^t readirg.

Poor.— The provifion for the poor is fmaU. The feffion fund,,
however, which is about 50 L, is rather increafing. The annu-
al colledions for their relief, after deduding the clerk's falary^
will be about 6 1. Sterling. There are 7 at prefent upon the
poor's roll y but all of them are abk to do fomethiiig fortheiv
own fupport. Befides the quarterly diftributions to the poor^
«>ccafional fupplies arc alfo given to thofe who £41 into acci-
dental diftrefs. Yearly colle&ions are made in all the pari(h«
es of this and the neighbouring counties, for the fupport of
the Aberdeen Infirmary.

Inoculation^ — The prejudices of the people in this neigh-
bourhood, are ftrongly bent againll inoculation for the fmaU
pox. Some months sgo,. when the prefent incumbent had
a child inoculated, one man, who has a numerous young
family, by a fecond wife, (his children of the firfl mar-
riage having fufiered extremely by the fmall pox,) was defi-
rous that his young family ihould undergo that operation*
They were accordingly inoculated| and got through remark-
ably

^Uy veil ; bift fo violent were the prejudices of the people,
that, it b faid, feme of them declared, if the inoculated
children had died, thej would have coniidered it as a juft
difpenfation of Providence. It is to be hoped, however, that
a few more fuccefsful inftances, will have a tendency to re-
move fo unfortunate an idea. Above all, if the more diC-
ceming heads of families were attentively to read the Statif*
tical Survey, it might be of confiderable fervice to them, in that
«8 well as in many other refpefis«

SirvarUs^ Wages ^ \3c. — ^Tlierc are only 15 male, and 19 fe-
male fervants in this parilh. It will no doubt appear firange,
that this number is fo fmall. Many of thehoufeholders have
fons and daughters, who alEft at their work ; and thefe are not
rcckoaed among the number of hired fervants. Many of tlie
houfeholdcrs are crofters, and they need no fervants. The
wages of a ploughmaa are about 5 1. Sterling, and the wa«
ges of a female fervant about 2 1. Many fervants are engaged
only daring the weeks of the harvell, and in that time, a man
fervant will fometimes receive al. and a woman 1 1. ; though,
if the weather be favourable, the harveft will be finifhed in
the courfe of 5 weeks. The day's wages of a labouring man,
are from 8 d. to z s. without viduals ; a taylor's wages 6 d.
or 7 d. and his viftuals. The wages of a common labourer,
when married, are fcarcely fuf&cient to enable him to bring
up a family. About 20 years ago, a dozen of eggs fold
for a'penny ; a hen for 4 d. a pound of butter (28 oz.) at 4 d ;
a pound of beef 2 d. All thefe articles now give double the
old price.

Roads. — ^The roads in this diftrlft are in a much better date,
than they have been, in any former period. But there is ftill
room for improvement in this refpeft. Some of the roads lie

L I 2 pretty

269 StatiJIicat Account

prettj low, and, being made on a clay bottom, they become
exceeding deep and heavy in the winter : nothing but raiiing
them very high, and fpreading plenty of gravel upon them,'
will make them tolerable in that feafbn. The date of the
roads, has lately employed the attention of the gentlemen of
property in this and the neighbouring parifhes ; and, they
feem to be thoroughly convinced, that, without good roads,
the improvement of their eftates muft proceed very flowly,
A plan and eSimate of a road,' (without a pull in it,) from
this place to Aberdeen, was, fome weeks ago, given in to a
meeting of landed gentlemen. The plan and eilimate have
met with their approbation, and thofe moft interelled in this
bufinefs, have fubfcribed 50 per cent of their valued rent, fo
that it is to be hoped, this plan will foon be executed. The
ilatute labour is generally commuted.

Fuel^ \Sc. — The fuel principally ufed in this diftrift, is peats
and turf, which are in great plenty, of a good quality, and
eafily procured 5 the moft remote parts being only about i{-
miles, and many not half a mile from the mofs. This may
be reckoned one of the principal advantages of the parilli.
Another is, that thofe, who live at the foot of the hills
already mentioned, may keep a number of fhcep, which
need no fhepherd ; and this is a confiderable faving to the
farmer.

jintiquities* — Little can be faid, with certainty, under the
article of Antiquities. There was a fhilling of Queen £lixa«
beth found fome years ago in a mofs, at no great diftance
from the place where the battle of Alford was fought, be-
tween Bailly and Montrofe. It is faid, Bailly's ipen flfd
through this mofs, and that fome of tUem were buried in it.

It has, perhaps, been there ever fince. Some time ago, a hu-
man

inan body, and a fword, were found near the fame fpot*
Hard bj this mofs, there is a fpot of ground, called the bkedji
faulds^ where it is probable the flaughter has been verj con-
fiderable in the chace. N«ar the fame place, on the brow of
a hill, there is a large flone fianding perpendicular, about pf
feet round, and \^\ high, which evidently appears to have
been brought there by human induftry. Beneath it, tradition
fays, that one of Macbeth^s fons is Interred. However this
may be, there arc pretty evident marks of Macbeth having
been in this part of the country. There are the remains of
an encampment, near the Kirk of Lumphannan, where', it is
{aid, he and his army defended themfelves for a confiderable
time. Near this camp, the country people fbew where he fell,
and the cairn under which he is buried. There are two or
three large cairns which have never been opened ; and there
are feveral Druidical Temples in this diftrid. One on a hill
about % miles from the church, dill retains the name of iht
Old Kirk of Tough.

Difadvantagef. — Some veftiges of the feudal fyftem are ftiH ,
difcemible in this diftridt. Several of the tenants are bound
to perform certain fervices to the. landlord. It ought, how-
ever to be remarked, that this difadvantage, or rather hard-
ihip, is by no ireans peculiar to the pariih, but common to
all in the neighbourhood ; but fuch is the moderation of the
proprietors here, that thefe fervices are not often exaded, and
never with rigour. But the principal local difadvantage,
which the pariih labours under, is its diflance from lime, none
being nearer than Aberdeen. Limeftone has indeed been dif«
covered in the pariih, but when fire was applied, it all run in-
to large lumps. It is to be hoped, that, by future trials, — by
digging deeper in the rock, it may yet turn out to good 9Cm

courts

1 7a Statj/ficat Account

coant* It would be an invaluable fource of improvement Xm
this diftrid, particularly if coals were got duty free.

CharaOeTf (/f.«-The people are in general very induftri*
ou8t frugal, humane, and obliging. Their morals are thought
to be ftri&er now than 40 or 50 years ago. Even the Sece«
ders have loft a great deal of that fiery, intemperate zeal^
which fo Orongly marked their charader, about the time of
their firft fettlement in this parifli. There is no inftance, in
the li.emory of man, of any individual being banifhed or capi«
tally conviAcd. The general fize of the .people is about 5
feet 8 inches. There are fome individuals about fix feet.

MifceUantous Ohferoations. — ^The principal mar.ufa&ure, iq
this and the neighbouring parilhes, is the knitting of ftock^
ings. In this the females are conftantly employed, except
during the weeks of harvt&ft. Jn the year 178a and 1783,
great fcarcity prevailed, and had not a confiderable quantity
of peafemeal been procured from abroad, and fent to this
country from Aberdeen, many of the inhabitants muft have
been in danger of periihing* It ought, however, to be re«
marked, that the women did fo much extra work, by knit-
ting (lockings, and the men by building dykes, that they
earned double the fum they ufually gain in the fame time ; fo
that the lofs they fuftained was not great, and the fcarcity
was but little felt.— -There are two or three tippling houfes
in the parifli, which have an evident tendency to corrupt the
morals of the people. A good inn, for the accpmiaodatioa
of travellers, is much wanted $ and, it is prefumed, a proper
inn*keeper would meet with good encouragement, as the pub^
lie road, from Aberdeen to Strath-don and the adjacent coun^
try, paffes through this parifli.

NO.XIV.
5

cfSttrling. 37|

No. XIV.
TOWN AND PARISH OF STIRLING.

(County and JPreJhytery of Stirling»^^ynod of Perth and Stir*

ling.)

By tbe Rev. Mr. James Sommerville, one of the Minifters of

that T^own.

Origin qf the Name.

THE town and pariih of Stirling have the fame name.
In all records of anj antiquity, it is written Stryveline^
or Stryveiittg ; and it is conjedured to have derived this name
irom the Scotch word ^rjfv^, becaufe of the frequent conten«
tions about the pofieflion of it, which arofe among the differ-
ent clans, in the dajs of ancient feud and barbarifm. This,
however, is mere conjediire, as all difquifitions about the
origin of names generally are. Buchanan and other Latin au-
thors uniformallj call it Sterlinum. The town's ancient feal
has, on one fide, a crucifix erefied on a bridge, with this in«
fcription. Hie armis Brutif Scotijlant hac cruce tuti. On the
reverfe is a fortalice, furrounded with trees, with the i;ifcrip«
tion, CoHtinet hoc nemus et cajlrum Strivilenfe* The town has
another feal, which contains the arms, viz. A Wolf upon a
rock| infcribed Oppidum Sterlini.

Extent^

^7^ Statifiiml Account

Extent^ Mc. — ^The parifii of Stirling is chiefly confined W
the town. The whole land in it does not exceed 200 acres.
The caftle, with the conftabularj, bj which is meant a fmall
portion of land, formerly annexed to the office of conflable,
are not reckoned in the parifli of Stirling. As little are the
Royal Domains, or King's park. They are exempted
from all parochial afTeiTment, and are in the pariih only quoad
facra^ and that only iince the chaplain ceafed to officiate, or
refide in the caftle. The landward part of the parifh lies be-t
tween the town and the Forth. It extends along the fouth
fide of the river, from Kildean, about a mile above the bridge
of Stirling, to the eaft of the town, with fome parks on the
the fouth of it. Thefe lands, on an average, are rented at
50 s. per acre. The fmall village, called the Abbey ^ which
occupies the place where the celebrated Abbacy of Cambuf*
kenneth once ftood, and which is fituated in a northern link I

of the Forth, eaft from Stirling, has hitherto, along with the ba-
i:ony of Cambu (kenneth, in which it is fituated, been reckoned
part of the parifli of Stirling. What gave rife to this arrange*
xnent is not known, unlefs it was, that the fervants belonging
to the Abbacy worftiipped in Stirling ; or that the Canons,
Monks or Friars of that monaftery, performed divine fervice,
in the church of Stirling, and formed a kind of connexion
which continued to fubfift after the reformation. ' One thing
is certain, that it has fub£(led ; for there is a&ually a feat in
the church of Stirling, allotted for the inhabitants of that vil-
lage ; and it appears, that an elder from it has fat in the feC-
fion of Stirling, almoft uniformly fince the year 1559. "^^^^
biarony of Gambuikenneth pays a part of the ftipend of the
firft minifter of Stirling ; but it is fubjeS to poor's rates in
the pariih of Logic, and to the jurifdidion of the ffieriffof
Clackmannan. The commiiTary of Stirling alfo exercifes his
jurifdi&ion over it, as a part of the parifk of Srirling ;' and

the

of Stirlingi a 73

ibe coihmiflafj of Dumblaoe exercifes his jurifdifiion, as ly-
ing within the parifh of Logic.

Climate and Longevity, — The fituation of Stirling is alfo
reckoned very healthy. The height of the rockf on which
it {lands, above the level of the fiat carfe grounds, no doubt
Contributes much to this efieA. Epidemical difeafes are
Scarcely known. At this very time there are four or five per- .
fons in Stirling above 90. The Croup, or Cynonche Trachea^
Us *, feem^ to be ^noft fatal to children , the aflhma and palfy
to old age.

Burgh of Stirling. — Stirling id allowed to be a place of con-*
fiderable antiquity. Buchanan mentions it again and again,
fo early as the 9th century, but gives no defcription'of it r
and to throw any light upon this fubje£l, from the town's
tharters, is impoflible. The mofl ancient of thefe records is
granted by King Alexander L and is dated at Kincardine, the
1 8th of Auguft, in the t2th year of his reign \ whereas there
is reafon to believe, that Stirling had been incorporated long
before, as the charter of Alexander is not a charter of ere£tion,
but only confers fome additional' privileges on the burghers
and freemen. Alexander the L who granted this charter,
afcetided the throne anno 1107, and reigned 17 years. It
therefore bears date in Z120. About the middle of the 12th
century, it would appear fo have become a place of royal re«
iidence. David I. kept his court at it, probably that he
might be near to the Abbacy of Cambuikenneth, which he
founded anno 1147, and on which he laviflied many marks
of his favour. He brought the canons of that monaftery from

Vol. VIIL ^ M m the

* Thisii adifeafc of the GUih^ Larynx jOt upper part of the 7Vtf«6ra, attended
with hoarfenefs, and a peculiar whizzing found in infpiration, and a ihrill ringing
found in fp^aking and coughing, at if the noife came from a brafen tube. It fel-
dom attacks children before they are weaned, or after i% years of age.

274 Statiftical Account

the neighbourhood .of Arras, in the county of Artois. tiX,
ancient charters, they fubfcribe themfelves Ahhates de Stryve^
ling. Alexander Miln, Abbot of that place, was the firft
Prefideiit of the Court of Seffion, inftituted by James V, anno
X531. The Abbacy now belongs to Cowan's Hofpital in
Stirling, having been purchafed from the predecefTors of Mr.
Erflcine of Aloa, on whom the property of thefe knds was
conferred at the reformation. It is probablci that Stirling
grew to its prefent fize, very foon after it became the tempo-
rary refidence of royalty ; and, from the moft accurate atten-
tfon to its fituation and circumflanccs, it may be concluded to
have undergone very little change, either in fize, or in the
number of its inhabitants, for the laft 600 years, till very
lately. JSut to give an account of the antiquities of Stirling,
however defirable, would only be to wander into a labyrinth
of conjedure. Mr. Nimm'o, in his hifiory of Stirlingfhire,
has faid all upon this fubjeft, that can be ftated with any de*
gree of certainty. There is no regular annal, or regifter, re*-
fpeding it, previous to the middle of the X5th century; and
the only one that reaches back to that period, or near it, is
the regifter of fafines, commencing in I473. The council
records commence in 1597* «

Situation and Improvements. — ^The fituation of Stirling is ro-
mantic. Raifed on a rock in the middle of an extenfive plain,
in the near neighbourhood of a winding river, which fcems
unwilling to part from it \ and, having the full view of finely
cultivated fields, bounded on the fouth by rifing woodlands, and
on the north by the Ochil hills, it is fcarcely poffible to imagine
any landfcape more beautiful or piclurefque. Added to its
fituation, which is Angularly beautiful, it has of late received
many improvements, exceedingly conducive both to the com-
ftirt and conveniency of the inhabitants. Water has been
tix)ught from a confiderable diftance to fupply the town.

Commodious

of Stirling 2y^

Copimodious fchool houfes, in airy lituations, and a fpacious
market place, have been ^refled within thcfe few years* A
noble walk along the fumnait of the rock, at the very root of
the foQth wall, from the one end of the toWn to the other,
Ihaded from the fun by a {helving thicket of fine thriving
trees, has been* lately finifhed at a confiderable expence<
This walk, which is perhaps the fineft thing of the kind, that
any place can boaft of, was begun, anno X723,by aMr. Edmon*
iloun of Cambus-Wallace, and finifhed only in the year 1791,
under the patronage of the prefent magifirates. Much how.
ever, as has been done to improve the beauty of Stirling, a
great deal ilill remains to be done. The caftle and Gowan
Hills, which admit of great improvement, aad which could
no way hurt the fortrefs, though improved to the utmoft,
remain like all other government property, as barren, rugged,
and negleAedi as if the ftem Genius of the north had faid.
Let them never be touched hy the hand of Art or Indujlry,

From an attentive obfervation of the grounds on which
Stirling (lands, and from the beft traditional accounts, Stir^
ling feems to have been neither m\ich increafed nor diminifli*
ed, for feveral centuries. The court raifed it to its prefent
fize. When that was withdrawn,' necefllty ftimulated to rn«-
duftry and kept it up. It was ereded into a royal burgbV
probably as far back as the middle of the 9th century. It
holds the fifth place in the rank of royal burghs, and was
one of the Curia quatuor burgorum^ a court which gave birth
to the prefent Convention of Burghs. The jealous and con-t
traded fpirit of incorporation^ ever tenacious of ancient cuf^
toms, and hoftile to all novelty and invention, nay, expuU
£ve of the enterprifing ftranger, has kept the inhabiunts of
Stirling trudging on in the routine of their greaUgreat-grand«
fathers, as it muft ever do thofe of all places, where improve-
ment is not forced, by peculiarly advantageous Iqcal ctrcura-
Glances.

M m 1 Sa

276 Statijlical Account

Set «r Confiitution of the Burgh.^^The town-council coniiftj|
of a I members, 14 of whom are merchantSi and 7 tradefmen,
viz. a provoft, 4 bailies, a dean of guild, a treafurer, 7 mer«.
chant counfellors, and 7 deacons of trade. Befides the ordi-
nary jurifdi^tion in civil cai^fes, which is common to the ma-
giftrates of all royal boroughs, and to the (h^rifii of counties,
the magiftrsites of this town have alfo an es^tenfive criminal
jurifdidion, conferred upon them by their charters, equal to
the power of Sheriffs, within their territories. Prior to the
year 1781, the old council eleSed the new one, 11 members
at lead of the old council being changed yearly. Six of the
7 trades fent a leet Qf 4, and the bakers a leet of 8 to the
council, who had power to put a negative upon the one half
of each leet. Each incorporation chofe one oi^t of the re^
mainder, as their reprefentative in council. The burgh
having been disfranchifed in 1 775, by a fentence of the Houfe
of Peers, confirming the decree of the Court of Sedion, his
Majedy was pleafed, in I78x> to reilore it to its privileges of
dedion, by his poll warrant, in which be made the following
alterations on the fet. The guildry company of merchants, an-?
nually elcft 4 members of the new council. , The trades choofe
their 7 reprefentatives» without fending leets : only the old
counlel previoufly decides 4 of the old deacons incapable of
being re-eleAed for the enfuing year. And there are flill at
leaft eleven of the old council changed yearly. £y the new
ffsty as. well as the old, the provoft, bailies, treafurer and con-
vener, cannot be continued in their ofEceB mere than 1 years
at a time. The dean of guild being now chpfen by the com-
pany of merchants, is neceflarily changed yeaxiy. The trades
incorporated by royal charter are, the bakers, weavers, ham>f
mermen, ikinners, butchers, tailors and (hoemakers. The
paaltipen, barbers, and other profefHons, have no reprefeata»>
dye in council, nor apy royal charter, but only a&s of erec«-

tioa

tf Stirling. ^77

tlovk from the town-council, about the year 1710, or betwixt.
f]%o and 1730. Each perfon, upon entering, pajs al. is#
6 d. to the funds of the burgh, befides what h^ pays to thofia
•of his own focietj or incorporation.

Peculiar Zifw. — ^There is a remarkable bye Jaw of this com-
munity, made in 1695, which the members of council mull
annually take 90 oath to obferve. By it they bind them-
felves, to take no leafe of any part of the public property,
under their management, nor to purchafe any part of it ;
neither to receive any gratification oat of the public funds,
pnder pretence of a reward for their trouble^ in going about
the affairs of the borough, or of the hofpttals founded in iu
By this bye-law, alfo, a hoard of auditors is elefted annually,
for infpeAing the public accounts, confifting of a members
chofen by the merchants at large, and % chofen in like manner
by the feven royal incorporationst
«

Cqfik^ %3c. — ^None can tell, when the caAle was built, any
more than the town. Even the bridge, which is doubtlels a
work of much later date, has no memorial of the date of its
eredion. The whole town ftands upon a rock, ftretching
from N. E. to S. W. ; and, with the caflle, fituated on the
utmoft prominence of the rock, towards the north, very
much refembles the ridge on which the high ftreet and
caftle of Edinburgh are fituated. Several of' the houfes in
Stirling, now {landing, are doubtlels of very ancient date.
In one, which was lately taken down, on the fouth fide of the
broad flreet, there was a ftone marked IIII. — Mar*s Worip a
large and aukward edifice^ was begun by the Earl . of that
name, anno 1570, while he was regent of Scotland, but ne-^
ver finlfhed. The tenement, called Argytt^s Lodgings was built
partly in the year 1637, by Alexander^ Vif<;ount of Stir-

Cburchitf

eyS Stiitlflical Account

Churches, t?f-— The weft church and tower were, itxsfaid,
eredted in the time of Alexander III, or at le^ft not later tha^
the year 1494; when probably James V, caufed it to be builft^
for the accommodation of fome Francifcan Vriars, whom he
had brought into th^ country, and fettled in a convetit, almoft
contiguous to this church. It has no date upon it, and
though of very ' beautiful architedure, it is now fo much
under ground, and fo low roofed, that no reparation can ever
render it a comfortsible plaee of worihip. Indeed, it has been
very little employed for that purpofe fince the reformation,
unlefs during the few years that lVj[r. Ebenezer Erfkine preach-
ed in it, when the people of Stirling chofe to have a third
minifter. The eaft churph, the prefent place of worOiip, wa$
creeled by Cardinal Beaton, and is a more fplendid and mag-
nificent fabric, but is very little accommodated to the purpofes
of Prefbyterian worfliip. It would need to be almoft totally
altered and repaired, to render it either elegant or convenient.
The abfu^^d pretence of its area t>eing private property, held
on np better fecurity, than the gift or conveyance of the kirk-
fei&on, ^fome of the pofleifors indeedfound upon grants from the
town-council, for fome trifling confideration) is the great hin-
drance ^o this moft neceSary reparatipn. The are^ of the
churches ousht never to be the property of any but the com-
munity at Is^rge. Common fenfe, as well as religion, dic-
tates that the poor fiiould have an opportunity of hearing the
gofpel as well as the rich.

Ecckfiaftical Hiftory* — ^The charge of Stirling was mad^
collegiate in the year 1651. Previous to that period, wefin(|
a Mr. Robert Montgomery, a Mr. Patrick Simpfon, and a Mr.
&enry Guthrie minifters of Stirling. Montgomery was de-
pofed by the aflembly, for a fimoniacal compaft with the Duke
of Lennox, about the bilhoprick of Glafgow. • Mr. Henry
Guthrifi was afterwards biihop of Dunkeld, and wrote " Me-

»9W

of Stirling. 279?

*< mdirs of Scottlih affairs, from 1627 tothe death ef Cliarles Ir'^
It appears from the council records, that this Mr. Guthrie,
after his removal from Stirling, refided at Kilfpindie. There
he probably wrote his memoirs. In i66i» after the death of
James Guthrie, the council fent feveral deputations to invite
him back to his charge in Stirling j but he declined it, on ac«
count of bad health. Mr. Nimmo mentions another Mr,
Henry Guthriei who was executed in the beginning of the
reign of Charles IL on account of his adivity in oppoiing
the meafures of the court. But this certainly was the cele-
brated Mr. James, who was beheaded in the year x66i, and
who was minifler of Stirling at that period, along with a Mr.
David Bennet. There are fome of the faid James's books,
with the chair in which he fat, ftill in the manfe of Stirling*
In the council records, a Mr. John Allan is mentioned aj» prior
to Mr. Bennet*.

Mr. Ebenezer Erfkine was fettled 3d minifter in X73if *
where he continued, tUl he was depofed by the General AT-
fembly in 1738. Upon this, Mr. Eirikine, and three of his bre-
thren,

^ ^ By aA of council %, February 1663, Mr. Andrew Kynnter, minifter of Eaft
Galder, was called and coUated by the biihop of £dinburgh as mioifter, alonj^
with Mr. Matthias Simpfon, who fuccceded Mr. Bennet. In 1665, Mr. James
Forfyth was firft minifter. In 1668, Mr. Patrick Murray was made ad. minifter,
in the roo«n of Mr. Kynnier who had died in 1664. But from the public conlii-
fion <ilthat period, the vacancy was not fooner fupplitd. An aft of asd January
x676,appoints a commUIioncr to ^ to Edinburgh or St. Andrews, to fpeak to the
archbifliop of St« Andrews, and offer to him the perfon whom the council has
cfaofen to be firft minifter of this burgh s and to deal with his Grace effectually
thereancnt* The minifter*8 name is not mentioned.

An AA if recorded 9th Auguft 1679, anent fupplying the vacancy of the xH
charge, by the death of Dr« William Pearfone.

aSth Auguft X679, Mr. John Munro u prefentedby the Council.

On the loth June l^Sa, Mr. James Hunter minifter at Donying, is chofeo
^ minifter, in room of Mr. Patrick Murray dcceafed.

From this period, to the 1694, there is no mention of the minifters of Stirlipg
ifi the records. From the 1694, we have Mcffrs. Robert Rule, John Forrcftcr,
J<%mcs firifbajie, Archibald M'Aulay, Charhs Muir, and Alexander Hamilton.

i^O &tatijical AecouHt

thren, Mr. Wflfon of Perth, Mr. Alexander Moncrieff of
Aberneth J, and Mr. James Fi(ker of Kincla^cn, feceded from
the church of Scotland, and (tiled themfelves the AJfociated
Brethren* About the jear 1744, fome fcruples were fuggeft.
ed to thefe brethren, then formed into a fjnod, with others
who had acceded to them, about the Burgefs Oath, hj Mr.
Moncrieff, which, in 1748, produced a fchifm among them.

At the headpf the Affociate Sjnod remained Mr. Ebenezer
£rlkine, and at the head of the other partj, who called them-
felves Antiburghers, appeared Mr. Adam Gibb. Mr. Gibb
excommunicated Mr. Erikine and his affociates. The excep-
tionable claufe in the borgefis oath runs thus : *' Here I pro-
'' teft before God and jour Lordihips, that I profels and al-
^ low with mj heart, the true religion prefently ptofeffed
** within thitf realm^ and authorifed bj the laws thereof j I
*' ihall abide thereat and defend the famie to mj life's end^
^ renouncing the Roman religioti, called Papiftiy.*'

The Antiburghers decreed, that it was inconfiflent with the
principles of the SeceiBon, to fwear an attachment to the ef^
tablilhed religion, after having deferted it on account of its
corruptions. The above burgefs oath was ufed at Perth. Id
Stirling, there never was a word abotit religion in it, until
fome few jears ago, the following claufe was introduced, at
the defire of fonoe of the Antiburghers, to fcreen them from
thecenfure of their minifier and feffion. t* I fwear to be a
** a faithful burgefs to the burgh of Stirling, to obej the ma-
** gifirates thereof, and town officers baring their lawful
** commands," The additional claufe follows : *' In fiiatter4
'' purely dnil^Jofar at agreeable to the word of God.

Since the depofition of Mr. Erlkine, the third charge of
Stirling has never been filled *• It was allowed to 'fall intd

difufe

* From the X738, Mr> TboinM Turner, Mr. Daniel Macqneen, and Mr.
Jolm Mttfchet, in the firft charge, 'fhomai Cleland, Thomas Randal^

Walter

of Stirling. 48 1

iiifUfe bj'the preibyterj. Whether the aflemblj gave theit
fandion to this, is uncertaio; A manfe was bequeathed to
the minifter of the firft charge, during the laft century^ bj a
Colonel Ebmokd, who was a native of Stirling^ and who, a£-
ter fifing to rank and a£9uence^ as a«foldier of fortune, gzft
.this teftiinonj of refpefi to the place of his nativity. The ad
xniniiler has no manfe. Thej haVe each of them iiel. of
ftipend. The ftipend of the zft minifter is paid out of the
tiends, and coUeded bj the town^ in confequence of an agree-
•znent bet wilt the minifter and town to that efied. The fti-
pend of the ad is paid by the town^ from an impoft on th^
malt ground at the town miU. The chaplainry of the caftle,
procured through the intereft of the town, is vefted in the
iirft minifter onlyi during life*

Scbaob*''^At the graiiimar fchoolj which ha3 two teachers,
a reAor and uflier, fo boys, on an average^, are educated an-
tually. The prefent reftor^ Dr. Doig, a man of diftinguifli-
ed eminence in his profeffiouj is growing up in years, and
db&lines the trduble of boarders, otherwife the fchool might
be more numerous. At the writing School, the number 6£
fcholars is anntially abput too. There are two eftabliflied
Englifli teachers, and a teacher in Allan's hofpital, pertnitted
by the town, to receive Engliih fcholars, who may have un-
der their cart annually,' about 2Qo children. The falary of
tbe refior is 40 1. yearly, and, a houfe. The other teachers
bave from aoL to 30 1. Sterling annual lalary.

Population* — About 46 years ago, it is faid, fcarcely aiify

iibufe was r^Mtired till it fell. Even then, it was often al-

VoL. VIII. N n lowed

tt^alter Buchanan, and Jainei Sommcrttllc in tbf ftcond,liaTe fttcceffifaly fi^
the crire of StirliDg.

^^2 s Sfafj/lieat Accnuni

lowed to lie for feveral years in ruins. Now, houfes are rebnitiF
before they are totally decayed, and within thelaft ao years* morar
houfes have been built and repaired, than was done before in
the courfe of half a century* Though more than 30 new
houfes have been built lately in die town* and environs, fome
will not admit that the population* is increafed; The inha»
bitantsi it is fiiid, now choofe to occupy more room— ^-That
may be the cafe ; but by the return' made to Dr. Webfter, in
the year 17559 the foub in the pariih of Stirling amounted oii«
ly to 3951 ; whereas* by a pretty accurate furvey, made
in the year 1790, there were xz8& heads of familiesi and
4483 (buls-'^Bcfides, in this lift, thene sre above 30 families-
in the environs of the town, not included. As the inrolment
of the year 1790 was deemed incomplete,, a new one was-
made this year, (1792,) and the number of ibuls in the pariilr
was found to be 4698. Since the commencement of the fum«r
met. X79a« they are probably augmented to 50C0, by the in-
eseafe of hands employed in the Cotton manufadory.

Muifht, J^tefUr
Of thefe 4698, there ire belonging to the Eibhiifiied
Church, . . • - -

M ■ The B^irgher Seceflion,
■ The Antibargher dkto, •

■ Caiiuvooiaiit» ...

. EpifcopalitBt, chiefly NoDJunntf,

. The Prelbytcry of Relief,

■I ■ Bereans, or the difciples of Mr. Barday^

* Jt tpiU tut ^f^r/wrprifitgf iBat tUrt w fi mwif Bmrghsr Btuitfs ^ Stir&ig.

nvbettii is re^olieffed^ thai the Secejh^ vm beptn in tbit fbui^ by Mr, £benem9r Erfrimt^
Kvboy by bis highly p^puUr taletkts^ drnv futb nsmbtrs after bins. Tbit jpirii^ atfo^
Hvhsa once it is introduced^ utAfarmly beeomts hereditary* Befidee^ from the fuM^Mef* •/'
90om in the church ^ it ii certain^ that many tahftatt in that meetiiig^ vfb$ are nevtr im of

intk

^79S

I4I5*

»7»

ISO

>>•

469*

^fStirUtig, afj

Ot the idifittcot PfufdDoDt there tfc.

ivief|(yjueo^

WeaiMTfy •

Hammermen, •

Skinners,

'Writen,

Butchen,

McrchuiM •

3©

Teylori, 9

Mbers,

SliQcmalcciv,

(ift of BirthS) peathi, 3cc* fer three years preceding 1792.
remn Bt^m** Mmri^pu BuriaU.

1788. S]» 43 S^

I7t9- 15 ^l 4

S790- ^T 52 ^8

, ii[<*ftttfa8ur$i.'^AA far back as the end of the i6th centorf^
fialloonsi manufaAvred in Stirling to a confiderable extentf
ivere feat oTtr to the Low Coantriea. Bruges was then the
ftaple port for Scotch commodities. The manufadurers mif-
taking their own interefti and debafiag the quality of their
ihalloons, foon loflt however, the advantages of that gainfigil
•branch of trade, and the town became miferablj poor.
Though the mana&dure was greatly hurt by fuch conduft,
jet it was never entirely dropt* Coarfe fhalloons continued
to be manufaAured in Stiiiing ; and at prefent this branch is
confiderably revived* For feverd years paO^ perhaps not
lefs than aoo^ooo yards of this ccMumodity have been annual-
ly mauttfaAured in Stirling, and its neighbourhood. To«
wards the beginning of this century, and during the decay of
Che flialloon roanufaftory, that of the Tartan ftarted up in its
place. It continued to flouriib till about the year 1760, but
is now almoft dwindled away* At prefent, the carpet manu-
faSure flofiriihes* for ieveral years, one company has eo(l«

N n a ployed

twaifowmuMm vHB tbtm. Perhaps^ thrtt^B kitgtb y #aw, miuptj^ mwe ibaM any
ibimg elfe^obliga many to contieS tbemfel^u witb tbtfi^ vdtb ^wbtm^/^r* iot^ time, tbty
pidyfetwud to offHtato,

* Tbe ilfi 9/ hjrtf/hu h by if§ mtant tmplete^

9 14 Stati/tkal Account

ployed 12 looms in that work, and produced carpets of ver^
fine colour, and the very beft quality- Another company
employs about 8 looms : and this year' a third company baa
begun work, and mean to employ not lefs thaii %% looms.
There are in all. betwixt 30 and 40 looms conftantly employ-;
ed. The dyers are reckoned eminently (killed in their pro-
feffion, and the colouring of the Stirling 9arpet8 is aUowed tq
be very fine.

The cotton manufa&ure alfo begins to take place here,
Three companies from Glafgow give out cotton yam to be
woven, and one of them have about 40 little girls engaged at
the tambour. Another company have this year got jennies \
and though ereded only at Whitfunday laft, are juft now em-
ploying 50 looms to fpin their own yarn. Near xoo perfons,
young and old, are already employed by this new company.
There* o^ay be in all 260 looms employed in weaving coarfe
muflin. Wool fpinning is likewife carried on to a confider-i
able extent* There are above 100 employed by one matter
in this work, in teaiing, fcouring, and combing the wool, and
making it ready for the wheel.

The river Forth pins fo level in the neighbourhood of Stir^
lingi that mi^ls cannqt be ereded for the purpofe of manu--
la&uies. In every other refped, Stirling is favourable for
them. Coals are plentiful ; the rent^ of houfes are low, and
wages yc^ry xnoderatQ *«

Bunku

* The wages of a mafon per day, are z 8. S dL; of a labourer from I a. tQ
1 1, a d. lyrigha get z s. 6 d. ; Taylors z i. Shoemaken are paid by the piece.
^ maoferrant gets, per anmim, from 41.105!.; a maid fervant about z L
10 s. per half year, or from $q s. to 3 1. per amium. The average price of butcher
. meat is 4 4. per lb. throughout the year. The bear and bread in Stirling are aK
)o,inre4 to be of the very beft quality.

£«a2x.-— There are three banks in Stirling. The Bank of
Stirling ; that of Campbell and Thomfon ; and that of Beloh
and Company ; befides a branch of the Old Bank of Scotland*
The laft, and two Qrft^ do bulinefs to a coniiderable extent.

Fi/hery^-^-^ht falmon fifliery belonging to the town, which,
but a few years ago, brought a revenue of 30 1. now brings
405 1. It is let to a company, who (bnd the fi(h chiefly to the
London and Edinburgh markets* There was, in the late leafe,
00 refervation in favour of the inhabitants, which fometimes
occafions murmnring, as the falmon is often higher priced ii^
the Stirling market, than even in that of Edinburgh.

Hofpitals^ Wr.— There are three hofpitals. The firft is that

endowed by Robert Spittal, taylor to King James V. The

date of the mortification i^ not on record. It is fuppofed to have

been about i $30. The original fum is not known. It was

mortified for the fupport and relief of poor tradefmen. There

was a houfe built for thei^ reception, at the foot of Mary's

Wynd ; but it is probable they never occupied it, as there is

not fo much as a Angle tradition where it ftood. The funds

were laid out on lands in the neighbourhood of Stirling.

The prefent yearly rent of thefe lands is 231 L Mr. Nimmo,

who fpeaks from report only, makes it 300 1.; and from

the fame fource, makes the yearly income of Allan's Hofpital

alfo 100 1. more than it really is» At prefent, there are 44 pen-

fioners on SpittaPs Hofpital, 16 of whom, who were deacons

of trade, receive per week i s. 4 d. :— the reft have weekly i s. .

2 d. The annual expenditure, for the fupport of the poor on

this foundation, is about 1721. Sterling* The managers of

this hofpital are at prefent increafing the funds. The charter

being loft, the patrons have no rule for diftributing the funds

^^t cufiom. There is no provifion from this hofpital for the

widows

. g^6 Stati/iical Account

widows of decayed trtdefmeo. There have been inftaaees of
this, however, though thej are never admitted on the pen-
fioD lift. This had been a much better charity ; but was un-
happily overlook^ by the founder. A poor widow, ft ripped
'Of charitable Uifpljt at the laine time that flie lofes her huf-
band, m^ft be poor indeed*

Cowan's Hospital cornea next in order. It was founded
and endowed by John Cowan, merchant in Stirling, anno
1639, for the fupport of la decayed guild brethren. The
4)riginal mortification was 9322 1. Sterling. There was a neat
gented houfe ereded by the patrons, after Cowan's deadly
for the reception of the brethren on whom he had entailed
bis charity. The fituation of this houfe is moft beautiful and
comantic. But what is furprifiag, there were Icarcely any to
be found who would accept the benefit of charity, according
to the appointment of the founder. The pride of the decayed
brethren made them fpum at the idea of leaving their own
honfes, and retiring into an hofpital, to be fupported oi^
public charity. For upwards of j)o years, the funds were al-
lowed to accumulate. The houfe flood empQr for nearly th^
Vhole of that period^ nor was it ever completely occn«
pied. With the accumulated funds, lands were purcfaafed.
Among others^ thofe of the old Abbacy of Cambuikenneth^
The managers appointed by the founder were the town GOun«
cil, together with the firft minifler of Stirling. They knew
not what to do with the revenue of the hofpital. At lengthy
it was refolved, to alter the mode of difpenfing the charity,
fiill following out the fpirit of the inftttution. Not only de«
cayed guild^brethren, but their widows and daughters aie ad-
mitted to a fliare in thefe funds.. The prefent income of the
lands belonging to Cowan's Hofpital is IX58I. Sterling. Therf
are above an {lundred pcnfioners on this charity. They re-
ceive weekly from i s. (J d. to a s. 6 d. each, which amounts

annually

^fStirSng^ 2?gy

fia]ltt)il])y to about 658 L Sterling. The furplus is expended
in incidental charities, paying public burdens, and the inte«
t^tt of money lately borrowed to make an additional and ad-
imnugeotU purchafe of lands. The funds art carefully ma«
nagedt and, notwithftamfitig the above large expenditures^
inuft increafe.

John Allak writer in Stirling, in emulationy: very proba-*
Vly, of the benevolent example of liie above mentioned gentle-^
jjaan, would alfo ^gag« in the eftablifliment of an hofpital.
He had more ezperiencet stud was determined , to render his
Bounty more extenfively ufeful and beneficial. About the
year X7^5» therefote, he mortified a fum of money, not for
the fupport of the indigent fquanderer, the negligent, and the
ilninduftriouar, but for the maintenance and education of the
children of decayed tradefinen. The fum mortified was
30,000 merks. The managers are, the town coimcil, and the
ftcond minifter. They laid out the money on lands. The
yeariy rental of thefe lands, at prefent, is 298 1. Sterling*
There are now 14 boys, maintained clothed and educated oa
thefe funds. The mailer of the hofpital receives at the rate
6f XI 1. Sterling annually for each of them. They are admit-'
ted at 7 years of age, and kept in the houfe till they are 14.
At leaving the hofpital, they ate allowed ico merks to put
diem to a trade. The annual expenditure upon the mainte*
nance, dbthing, and education of thefe boys, is about 164 L
Sterlmg. According to a claufe in Mr. Allan's will, order-
ing fupply to be given from thefe funds, to any of his poor
rdations,. who may be in indigent circumllances, there is ac
prefent about 37 1. Sterling yearly, paid to eight of his rtla-
tions, at the rate of z s. 9 d. per week. The furplus funds^
after paying public burdens, &cc. go to accumulation.

Befides thefe charitable foundations, the funds of the guil«
Atj^ or merchant company, defray the expence of educating

the'

St%t Stati/ikal Atcount

the poor guild brethren's thildreo, affift them in purchafin j
clotheSy and paying their apprentice fees. The Kirk'^Seffion
f^js to ^6 paupers annually about 73 1. Sterling, at the rate
of 6 d. per week to each. From the town's funds, there are
uz who receive about J 6 1. Sterling annually, at the rate of
X 8. per week. They alfo pay for teaching 14 or 30 poot
children to read Englifh.

To prevent the nuifance oi begging poor, a Icheme^ by anna*
al voluntary fubfcription, was fet on foot fome years ago, from
which about 80 paupers receive annually 156L Sterling, at
the rate of pd. each per week. Be&des all thefe charities, the
Kirk-Se£lion diftributes betwixt 40 1. and 50 1. Sterling a-year
to incidental poor. Nearly the fame lum, or more, is diftri-
buted annually by the Burgher Secei&on ; and the boxes of
the different incorporations alfo give charity to a confiderable
extent. It is fuppofed, that every lath perfon in Stirling re-
ceives charity*

'!rhis may feem furprifing ; and it will be neceflary to me&«
ikon fome of the more obvious caufes, why there are fo many
poor, and fo great confumption of charitable funds, in fuch s
fmall place as Stirling. It is generally faid, that Stirling being
fo near the Highlands, and known to be rich in ^nds, a number
•f indigent people, while they are ftiU capable of labour, but
have little or no profpeft of fupport at home, ihould infirmi-
ty or old age come on, emigrate annually into Stirling, and
take up their rcfidence there, till three years are elapfed,
when they give in their elaim for fupport^ and are of courfe
admitted as neceffitous poor. It cannot be denied, but there
may be fome truth in the allegation, becaufe the greater num-
ber of poor on the Stirling penfion lifts, are obvioufly of Gae-
lic extradion. Their names are almoft all Gaelic names. Be-
fides, there can be no doubt, that the report of rich funds has
a firong attra6iion. This circumftance, of itfelf, chiefly mul-
tiplies

of Stirling. 289

tiplies the poor. Increafe the means of dependence, and the
the effed is unavoidably increafed. This is more efpecially
the cafe, if the funds are legally eftabliflied, and, if a certain
age and defcription entitles to a participation of thefe funds.
It is more than prefumable, that all charitable fupply, ex-
cept in cafes of abfolute incapacity of labour, (hould be cafif-
al, exadly proportioned to the deficiency of aftive power, and
^dependent on the moil accurate inveftigation of the prefent
circumftances of the pauper. If this is not the cafe, it uni-
formly cuts the nenres of induftry, and is a nui&nce to fo«
ciety, rather than an advantage. The indolent and the cla*
-morous, looking forward with folicitude to that period, when
they Ihall undoubtedly be entitled to fupport by certain fta-
tute, remit every exertion, confome like drones any little
property that may remain to them, and fall at length, with
eagemefs, into the arms of provided and fecured fupport, witk
a haughty contempt to this iacred diflate of common fenfci
•• That he who will not work, fliould not cat;**

The managers of the eftablifhed charitable funds in Stirling
are perhaps as accurate, attentive, and impartial, as any fuch
body of men can be ; but they muft walk by ftatute, and ara
often obliged to admit upon the funds, thofe who both can and
0ugbt to labour for their bread. This circumilance has aa
inflaence extenfively pernicious. Indolence is contagious*
They who are capable of labour, being rendered indolent and
' inadive, through dependence on fecured fupport, gave a tinc-
ture to all their immediate connedions. They are ever found
among the fauntering and the idle, and confequently increafe
the number of the poor*

Nor can the ordinary managers of the poor's fuodsr how*
ever attentive, always exclude the undefcrving.— Tb^y meet
too feldom. — They have too little time. — ^They ca&not be *at
the pains to give incidental aid, the moil ufeful aifiS ne(ie£»

Vol. VIII. O o gcffarj

flp9 Statifiual Account

iaLiy of all charitj* It is eaficr for them and for their treafureri
to admit perfoDs to regular and ftated penfions. Stated pen*
fioosy except to the blind| the laxpe or the difeafed, are al-
ways prqduftive of depen4cnce. Thej continne the demand
oa the poor's f^nd \ thej increafe the number of the poor.
Tlus caufe indeed is not peculiar to Stirling. It operates in
every plape where (he adminiflratipn is not in the hands of
the Seffioo, firho, from the frequency of their meetings, an4
their thorough acquaintancf: with the circumfiances of the
poor, mnft eyer be the moft iiatnral and judicious difpenfers
pf public pharity ; and there can be no doubt, but the gentle-
men of landed property, who, in many p|ac^ of Scotland^
haye contributed to anaibilate the Seflions, will foon find the
puniihment of their folly, in the enprmous weight of aflefsr
meat, which they muftlay i^pqn ttieir la^^d, £pr tl^e fupport of
the daily incieafing poor.

The great number of low hoyfea ii^ Stirling augments th«
lift of the poor. The proprietors of Cuch hou£es, unable or
unwilling to repair them, can let thena only to \bc poor, the
fluggiih, or thp depraved* None eUe ^urill take them. In
iiich uncomiortaUe habitations, the fpirits of men are broken|
or their health impaired ; and they fbon fall unavoidably on
the funds of the poor«

The low rate of female labour in Stirling, is another fource
pf poverty. The )itmofi a woman can e^m by fpinning wool,
is 3 d. a*day. With this they cannot maintain tbemfelves,
pay the rent of a houfe, and get other nece^aries. Such fmall
f ncouragemeat deHtroys induftry. A femide having fo little
profped of advantage from her labour, i$ at,ix> pabs to be ex-
pert in iC' Many of them will rather be idle altogether than
turn a whedt When neceflhy urges, they are incapable of
pbficif ncji and muft either ftarve or beg. There are, per*
liapf , fdfir places is Scotland^ where the quantum of female

labour

WJ Stirling^ apt

^I&boiir »s lefs, becatife it iv fo unproduAtve. ManufiEiftarers
ibould confider themfelves as obliged to increafe the price pi
female labour.

Bilt perhaps the chief c^ufc of the numerous poor in Stir^-
iing is the caftle. This maj feem a paradox, but it is eafy
to be explained* The fole ufe of this fortrefs, at prefent, is to
be an afylUm to invalids; About ido of thefe are generally
ftationed in it; Thefe men, who probably enlifted at firft,
from diflike to labottr and regularity^ do not find, in the army^
much opportunity of becoming attached either to induftry or
fobriety. Hating generally eontr&ded habits of thonghtlef-
nefs and diflipatfon, they retire into the caftle, very little qna»
lified to enjoy the advantages df that fituation. Secured in
-6 d. a*day, or lodging forward to the Ghelfea penfion, the low
women in Stirling afpire at a tonneftion with them, and think,
that when they are wives of caftk foldiers, they (hall never
^ant; When thefe invalids and penfioncd foldiers are fober
and indttftribus, they are tety able, with their pay^ to pro-
vide a decent fiipport for their families \ but few of them are
of thiii charafter; Being generally ignorant, vicious and de^
baiiched^ they get wives like themfelvest ?or make them fo.
AH their introme is ufually fpent with the day. They never
get their houfes fumiihed. They live amidft me^nnefs and
tags; Their mlhdfi are disbafed; Their children are trained
op. uilder the very i^orft example. The fathers foon die,
worn out with intemperance. They leave their families beg-
gared, unprincipled and debauched. Thefe fsimilies are the
nnrferies of beggars. Nearly one half of the paupers in Stir-
^ng fpring from thefe nntferies.

Where there is fo much poyerty, there will of courfe be
much bafenefs and degeneracy of mind. True religion only
eui 'tame the heart, and f weeten the manners of the poor. On
them^ however, thkis generally found to have little influence.

O o a The

fl^2 ^tatijlical Account

The ftrpDg cravings of nature lead them another way. Thefe^
being but ill fapplied, produce violence, chagrin, jealoufj^*
and every ill paffion. Give thens, and they are tolerably
quiet and orderly ( but withhold or conftrain, (both of which
are often abfolutely neceflary,) and they are clamorous, furly,
invidious, and bent on every pradice within their reach, how* -
ever criminal it may be, to obtain what they need. The
manners of the inferior ranks in Stirling, muft therefore be
Beceflarily rough, petulant and difagreeaUe, Harrafled with
perpetual anxieties about daily bread, they have little or no
time to think of fuperior objeAs ; and either will not, or can*
not come within the reach of thofe important lefibns of divine
truth, which fupport the mind of man, and render him calm,
TOtient and compofed, even although the field ihould yield vm
^fBom,

Bat what ftill farther induces this unwilling complainf,
againft the manners of the poor, is a circumfiance not peculiar
to Stirling, though it takes place there. It is found in almoft
every town, city, and borough, throughout Great Britain,
and is iingularly difgraceful to a great and enlightened nation.
There is generally no room in churches for the accommoda^
tion of the poor. They muft either loiter away the days of
public folemnity, in floth and vicious indulgence at home,
which they will very foon be inclined to do, or they muft
ftand at an awful diftance, in feme cold unoccupied area,
which very foon becomes irkfome and intolerable. Befides,
in fuch lituations, it is {carcely poffible they can receive muck
advantage from public inftruAion. Let a remedy be provid-
ed for this evil : Let churches be built, or decent places pro>-
vided for the accommodation of the poor, and their manners
would foon be correfted, at much lefs expence, and much
more effedually, than by thoufands expended on die building
of bridewells and correQion houfes. Charity employed in

frevetUing

tf Stirling. 29J

preventing vice is charitj indeed. That which is emploje4
in corri£iing it is pften mere felfiihnefs. '

The manners of the inferior ranks are alfo much hurt and
debafed every where, by the great number of tippling hoiifes,
and the low price of ardent fpirits* Of thefe, the number ia
Stirling has been cdniiderablj diminiihed for fome years pad,
but ought to be ftill more fo« In 1782, there were 94 licenC-
•d ale houfes in Stirling. In 1790, there were only 68. The
difference has arifen probably from the additional tax* la
178^9 a licence coH 1 1. i s.. In 1790, a licence qoft i l.ii Sp
6d. If the legiflature would increafe the tax upon the retail of ar«
dent fpirits, it is probable fuch a ftep would contribute much
to prfevent the growing depravity of the people. It woul4
diminifh the number of thofe nefts of vitiation. It would
leffen their accefBbility, efpecially to the weaker fex, who,
from many circumfiances, are too eafily led to haunt them.
One of thefe muft be particularly mentioned, though not pe-*
culiar to Stirling. While females are fervants in families o£
fuperior rank^ or even in the houfes of the better kind of
tradefmen, inftead of receiving abundance of plain and whole,
fome food, which is their due, they are fooliflily indulged
with luxuries, which they can tafieno more the moment they
become the wives of honed labourers. Feeling this change
#f fituation, which occaiions difagreeable refle&ions, and fub«
jefted to the uneafineiTes unavoidably conneded with their
change of date, they betake themfelves to ardent fpirits to kill
their griefs, and are thus infeniibly led into habits of intoxi-
cation, which ruin theitlfelves, their interefls, and their fa«
milies in every refpef^. There is no caufe of increafing im«
morality, among the lower ranks of the people, more abun-
dant than this* There is none, which the care of magiflrates
and rulers ought to be more employed to prevent. If the
mothers of families are corrupted, virtue muft be gone.
Mailers fhould have regard to the future interefts of their fer-
vants

£94 StatiftuMl AicoUnt

irants, more thtn to tbeic prefent indnlgence. MagifttatH
and rulers ihould render the venom^ whioh poifons the morals
of the people, as inacceffible as polfible.

iThis is more in their power, and taftly more pradicable^
as well as likely to be more 'efficient in remedying material
evils, than the fyftcm fo mnch in vogue among our prefent
Iciolifis in government, who are for pulling down every
thing, in order, as they pretend, to build up a more perfeS
and beautiful edifice* Let the revenue laws be reviewed *•
By them, the people have been in a maimer compelled to
ufe fpiritous liquors, for want of wholefome beer. The^ pre^
fent mode of gauging the brewer, and of farming the duties
to the diftiller, has the unavoidable effeft of ruining the for-
mer^ and encouraging the latter. The coofequenCe is, that
the brewery, in moft parts of Scotland, produces a thin vapid
four fluff, under the name of fmall beer, which is all that the
common people Can poffibly ^et for their money, unlefs they
go to the expence of Englifh porter, now become the beve4
rage of the more opulent. The poor labourer, finding that
the beer he purchafes neither warms nor nouriflies him, fliey
unavoidably to ardent fpirits, now felling at a veiy reduced
priee.

Befides, the diftiller works, as it is called, agdinft time^ i. e.
he pays fo ^ much annually per gallon, for the contents of his
ftill, and works without contcouL It is faid, that a diftiller
can now charge his ftill, no lels than 35 times in ^4 hours,
inftead of once or twice as formerly, when he was regularly
furveyed. This pours in fo great a quantity of the common
dity to the market, that it cannot mifs being cheap. Hence
the labourers take whifl&y, with a little bread to their break*
faft. It inebriates and fubverts the minds of meUi women

aoi

* Staabilibus xgrotamus mal]s«

ofStlrUhgf agjjk

and children, emaciates their bodies, readers them unfit for
labour, ruins their perfonsy corrupts their hearts, and lead^
them to think of plots, rebellion and everj evil work. Take
the tax off the brewery, and laj it on the diftillerj, and it is
impoffible to faj how much the virtue and morals of the pcor
pie would be improved* This is an objed furelj worthy of
^ wife and virtuous adminiftration* Tliefe obfervations wero
unavoidable, from an attentive foxvtj of the manners of many
among the lo^er ranl^ of the people*

Ciara^#r««— With rf fped to the manners of the inhabitants
in general, there is a fobriety, prdcr, and decency among them,
Scarcely to be eacpefted* The great body of the people, ia
{Stirling, even of the principal people, do not yet think it be^
\ow them to attend religious ordinances i and, there are few
yulko allow tl|emfelves, in the praSice of jauntiag, or making
l^xcurfions on the Lord's day, for the fake either of bufin^
pr pleafiire. Hence, there is among them, an external decorum
and fobemefs of mind, a freedom from giddinefs, cxtrava*
gance, and diffipation, which refpefi for religious inftitutions
alone can prodnce. Urbanity and fecial intercourfe are not nn«
frequent among them. The only thing which interrupts this
ft political jealottfy, — a d^mon, which, at certain feafons, un-
happily rages too much in almoft every little burgh throughout
Scotland. Would magiftracy uniformly maintain the dignity
f>f that iitoation, and exert itfelf with fpirit or boldnefs folely
for the public good, without any regard to the prolongation
of their hooo^, but juft as it refults from public fuffrage and
ppinipn, this evil would nearly expire. So fiir as this evil
refuks from diflientient principles in religion, it is leis fufcep*
tible of cure. For this, no remedy can be found, but the re«
ftoration of religion itfpU^ which always renders men forgiv-
ing

. 'SLg6 Stati/licdl Account

jngy affedionate and gentle, and uniformly unites them int^

one.

• Mifcelbmeous Ohfervations. — Stirling being fitoated on the
ifthmusy betwixt the Forth and Clyde, is, bj means of its
bridge, the great thorough-fare of the north of Scotland*
There are only two inns in it which dcferve the name. Theft
are fpacious and good. — The county meetings are ofually
held in Stirling. There is no public room, or hall for this
purpofe. — Stirling is one of the feats of the Circuit Court.-^
•The only jail in the county is here. The number of pri-
fcmers is generally not great. For thefe three laft years,
there have been only two criminal trials* Petty thefts and
debt are the ordinary caufes of imprifonment.-— The Falkirk
diftrift of the county, being the moft populoiis, and no pub*
lie magiftrate refiding there, it uniformly fumiflies the greaN
eft number of prifoners.— The banditti always croud to a po-.
puloos place, where there is no efiabli&ed authority. There
Ihould be, in every county, a public work-hottfe, for the con-
finement of the pilferers and fomcrs, who are found to be of
that county. Banifhment only inereafes their neceifity of
fiealing.

In the council honfe of Stirling is the yugg^ appointed bj
law to be the ftandard of dry meafure in Scotland, It is fta-
mted and ordained, thaft the wheat firlot fliall contain the full
of this jugg twenty one times and one fourth ; and that the
^rloc for barley, malt and oats, (hall contain it 51 times.
The great number of public tranfaftions, which have takea
place in Stirling, and in the caftle, would, of themfelves, fiU
a volume ; and, if deemed neceflary to the Statiftical aocount^
ean . be found in Nimmo's hiftory, and the Encyclopaedia
Britannica, under the article Stirlivo.

6 NUM.

BfKiitoft, 8^7

NUMBER XV.
PARISH OF KELTON.

^<kmttf md PreJh^Urf 0/ KiricuibrigU^'^ynod of CalU^

way.)

fy tie Rev. Mr. Thomas HALLtDAir,

Ifamesy Situatien^ River ^ Extent and Soil^ \ic.

KELTON confifts of three united pariflies, Kehan^ GeU
Jlon^ and Kirkconmck. Near the S» £. boundary of
the parifli, there is the veftige of an old chapel, called Kirk^
mirren^ fuppofed to have been dcfigned for a Chapel of £afe»
The etjmology of thefe oames is uncertain : probably they
are either of Celtic or Saxon original.

The great military road from Dumfries to Port Patrick*
runs through the parifli for the fpace of four miles, in a
direAion nearly from N* £• to S. W* It is ieparated from
the pariihes of Toagland and Balmaghie by the Dee, a river
Abounding with falmon of the richeft quality and flavour.
. ^elton is about 6 miles in length. In breadth, it is
rery unequal. At a medium, it is nearly three miles, and
contains an area of above 9500 fquare acres. The foil of the

Vol. VIII. Pp panlh

298 Statjftical Account

parifli is e^cecdlnglj rarious, generally thin. In fome places.
It is a fine loam ; in others, it is a deep watery till, efpecial-
Ij on the fmall hills of a conical figure, with which the parifli
abounds. Thefe little hills are all arable ; but thej render
the fnrface very uneven. The moft luxuriant crops are pro-
ducedy in general, when the ground is well manured with
dung, lime, or marl. Lime is imported from England at 1 1.
Sterling per Carlifle buihel. In the north end of the parifl],
there is abundance of the fineft ihell marl. On the S* and S.
W. borders of the pari(h, there are fome hills, moftly covered
with heath. The higheft of thefe is fteep and rocky, and rifes
HOC feet above the level of the fea*

Climate and Diftafes^ l5'r.^Kelton is feldom vifited with
thofe fogs, or noxious damps, which are unfriendly to health.
The ait is, in genera], dry and falubrious. No difeafes are
known to prevail in the pariih, but fuch as appear in other
places of the country, that are deemed healthful. Rheumatic
complaints feem to prevail moft. Fevers of diiFerent kinds
now and then appear, and fometimes confumptions, &c. ^The
ravages of the fmall pox are greatly prevented by the hu-
mane and fuccefsful plan of inoculation. Inftances of longe-
vity have not been a wanting in Kelton. Seventy is not rec-
koned old age. Numbers arrive at 80 years, and feveral at
90, and upwards. There is a woman now living in the pa-
rifli, aged between 97 and 100 years; and a woman died
lately at the town of Caftle-Douglas, having reached the long
period of 107 or 108 years. She remembered King William
the Ill's cavalry pafling through this country to Ireland ift
2689. The heavieft rains here are from the &• £«, South, and
Sr W. J and the ftrongj:ft winds are from the W. and S. W.

GfKcUon. 299

Produce and Exportation. — ^The chief produce of Kelton is
oats, which are of a verj good quality. A confiderable quan-
titjr of barlej, and bigg^ or hear, is raifed in the pariih ; and
fome wheat. Rje, peafe, and beans, are not much cultivat-
ed ; but there is plenty of potatoes for home confumption^
and a good deal for exportation. The lands are generally
laid down, or fown out, with rye-grafs and clover. Few have
yet paid attention to Tnrnips. The average exportation of
grain is, of late years, about 2000 bolls, ea^ch boll containing
I X Winchefter buihels, or 32,000 Winchefter buihels in whole.
The markets are, the north of England, and the weft of Scot-
land, llie oats, when well cleaned, yield rather more than
a ftone of meal per buihel. One great hindrance to improve-
ments, in this place, is th^ high multures. Hemp and flax
are 4iot much attended to in this pariih.

Blaci Cattle f SheepfHe.^-^The ftaplecommodity of Galloway,
which comprehends the ihire of Wigton, and ilewartry of
Kirkcudbright, is black cattle and iheep. Befldes what are
ufed in home confumption, many thoufands of black cattle
are annually driven to the Engliih markets. The black cattle
in Kelton amount to above 2000, are ftrong made, and of a
middle fize. . The flieep do not exceed zooo. Thofe fed upon
the hills are of the fmall old breed of the country ; thofe fed
on the lower and improved grounds, are much larger ; gene*^
rally of a mixed Engliih breed, and have finer wool $ but are
ilronger, and not fo pleafant to the tafte, as the fmall kind.
There arc above 300 ^orfes in the pariih, — ^Therc arc 50
ploughs, and 89 carts employed in hufbandrj(.|

Population* — The prefent ilate of population in Kelton is

^600 fouls. The return to Dr. Webfter,^in iJSSf ^^^ .^^^ »

P p a iftcreafe

300 Statifiicd Account

increafe 789. The proportion the fexes bevto each other is
about 90, or 91 males to 100 females. No diftinft regtfler of
births, marriages and deaths, has been kept in Kelton, fince
the year 1727 ; and therefore, the different ages of the inha-
bitants cannot, with any fort of precifion, be flfcertained*
The increafe of population has been very confiderable in the
parifh fince the year 1765, and is ftill advancing, with rapid
progrefs. Marriages and births are become very frequort^
becaufe of the continual increafe of the inhabitants.

The different profei&oxis are 9s f«Uows :

Mcrdiant*,

Hair-dreiTer,

•

Square*men or wrights.

Bakers,

firaiths,

• •

Mafons, •

•

Tailors,

•

Slater,

Weavers,

• •

Stoddiig wesTcr,

•

Butchers,

Sadler,

burgeon.

Shocmakcn,

• •

Carriers,

Clockmiiker,

InaU, « • • • » 8S

Churchy Schools, and Poqr. — ^TheKbg is fole patron of the
united pari(hes« The ftipend of Kelton, as fettled in the year
17 88, is 8q1. Sterling neat, exclufive of a glebe of about
i5 acres. The manfe and ofgces were rebuilt in the year
J 7 77. — ,There are three fchools in the parilh, but they are
very poorly endowed. One of thefe has only 2 1. 8 s. 9 d*
another 2 1. 10 s, ^nd the principal fchool about 8 1. 4 s. Ster-
ling pf annual falary, exclufive of fchool wages, which are
very low in this place* Above jo fcholars ufually attend
each of Ihefe fchools.— The poor are, for the moil part, fup«
plied by the colleftions made in the church. There are not
»bove 12 at prefent upon the lift. The coUedions for the
poor amount to about 24 L Sterling per annum, at an average.

Then

tf Keboti. 3of

There are do mortifications in Eelton for tlie nfe of the poor*
The church was rebuilt in the year x743. In 17831 a large
aile was added to it \ and iUU, it is bj for too Imall for the
accommodation of the people.

JV«/.-^Peats are the fuel that has been commonly u(ed
in Kelton ; but they are now become very fcarce, as the
mofs in moft places, is nearly exhaufted. No coal has yet
been found in this country, and the ezpence of that article
from England is e^eedingly high. Coals, at prefent, in the
port of Kirkcudbright, are fold at 1 1. 8 s. Sterling per ton^
exclufive of cartage, which, to the canfumer in Kelton, raifei
the price to about two guineas per ton *•

Rent^ Heritors^ (^r.— The rental of Kelton, as it ftanda
upon the Cefs Roll, is 3598 1. Scotch. The real rent is above
4500 L Sterling. There are x8 Heritors in the pariiOb, 7 of
whom refide.

Villages and Mariets. — ^There asv two villages in the pa-
rifh, both upon the military road, about a mile and a half
diitant from each other. At the fouth weft village, called
Rbonboufe or Kdt(m Hili, there is held on the firft Tuefiiay
after the X7th day of June, O. S. an annual horfe fair, the
largeft, perhaps, of any in Scotland, where there is, generally,
a very fine Ihew of all forts of horfes. To this fisur, vaft
numbers of horfe-dealers refort from England, Ireland,
and the eaft, fouth, and well of Scotland. Manyjchapmeii
and hawkers frequent Kelton Hill fair. Upon the hill ad*
joining to the village, where the fair is held, many large and
well covered tents are ere&ed by people from Dumfries

Kirkcudbright^

* The ton of coal at Kirkoidbriglit, b 3S cwt* at 7 fione SuglUh each cwc»

S^ft Statjfiical Accwnt

Kirkcudbright, Gatehoufe of Fleet, See. ftored with provifioo*
and all forts of liquers, for the accommodation and refrelh-i
saent of thofe vrhofe bufinels calls them to the fair ; and, con*
fidering the vaft concourfe of people upon that occafion, thej
generally difpofe of their articles to advantage. The fair
lails only one day. At this place too, a weekly market for
black cattle is held upon Monday, beginning in Odober, and
ending in December, every year,

Tirade and MaHu/a£iurts,^^Tht other village, formerly
palled Carlinwarkf now ere&ed into a free and independent
)>urgh of barony, and denominated Cafile^hQugUa^ after the
fuperior, is fituated at the north comer of the Carlinwark
Loch. Within the limits of this burgh, there are, at prefent^
Jietwcen 600 and 700 inhabitants, where, 26 years ago, there
were not 20. At this town a banking branch is now eftab*
liihed \ and, two companies are engaged in the manufadurc
of cotton : one of thefe companies, (in which the fuperior,
William Douglas £fq. of Caftle-Douglas, a gentleman of
great property, and principal heritor of the parilh, is concern-
ed,) proceeds upon a pretty large fcale. Here, likewife, a
foap«wprk, brewery, tannery, and woollen manufadory, are
in contemplation. One great hindrance, however, to the
cftablifliment and carrying on of extenfive manufadures in this
place, with fuccefs, and to advantage, is the fcarcity of fuel.
Should a plao be adopted whereby to remedy that inconveni-
piiice, it would tend much to the benefit of Kelton, and this
country in general. Were the tax taken off the importation
of co^ls from England, that falutary end would, perhaps, in
a great meafure, be attained. In regard to population, the
towa «f Cafile-Douglas, is increaling with rapidity, and needs

pnly mauufaftures to render it coniiderable *•

Wages^

• Tlicrc 18 a pod office at Caftlc-Douglai, where mails arc dlfpatched and re-
ceived every day, to and from all the principal poft-officetin Great Britainand Ire*

land*

ofKettofi. 30J

Wages ^ Servants^ ?/r.— •The common rate of wages given tb
ft man fervant, fit for everj branch of hufbandry, is from t
fo 9 guineas per annum. And the wages given to the bcft
women fervantSi are from 3 L 10 s. to 4 1. 10 s. per stnnum*
Forty years ago, the very beft men fervants received nd mori
than 2 1, per annum, and the beft female fervants i ^ s. Ster-^
ling. The common rate of wages, then, was confidcrably
lower than is ftated above. Cotter's wages are now about 151*
Sterling per annum. Tradefmen have i s. 8 d. per day, and
fome receive more, ezclufive df viduals. The number of
men fervants in Kelton, including cotters, of whom there arc
30, amounts to about loo* The female fervants are aiearly
double that number.

. Jf/Z/j*— -There are three corn mills in the parifh, one barley
mill, and one flax mill. Though flax is not much attended to ia
Kelton, the mill is fupplied from the neighbourhood around,**.

Lake hnd Marl. — ^Near the north corner of the parifli^
there is a lake, commonly called He Carlinwark L^cb^ along
the weft fide of which runs the military road. The extent
of this loch, before it was partly drained in the year 1765,
was 116 fquare acres. Ten feet of water were then taken oH
from it by a cut, or canal, to the water of Dee. Now it is only
80 fquare acres in extent. This loch is one great fource of
improvement to Kelton and the neighbourhood. It contains

land. About fix years ago, the poftages received at this ofSce, amounted only to
iabout 48 or 50 L Sterling, and did not defray the expence of the eftablifliment.
Now it yields a revenue of 140 1. Sterling per annum, and is ftill upon the incrcafe.
* The rate of living bears a fall proporrion to the incre;ire of wages. It is a
well known fad^, that 50 yean ago, 50 1, was more thin equal to xjo 1. now $
fo {Treat has been the adva. ce of every article •! living. Provifions, d^Cf of
•f ail lundsy iUU contiaae to rife m. their price.

304 Statiftkal Account

in itfeify and tbe mofles adjoining^ an inexbanftiUe fund of llie
very beft ibell marl. The marl is laken out of the loch bjr
means or^^ats and ballad bagSf wrought with a wheel ;n
mode that is^rettj eicpeditions ; and it is taken out of th«
moffes, in the Way of throiwing, ufually praftiied in other parts
of the country. «

/is»^rovMimf^.-^ince the loch was dnuned^ the face of "the
country, all around, has undergone a very wonderful change in
point of improvement. Not only Kelton, but the parifhes of
Buittle, Grofsmichael, Balmaghie, PartoUi Balmaclellan and
KeUs» reap the benefit of the marl> from the Carlinwark
Loch and its vicinity. Marl is carried from the Loch in flat
bottomed boats, along the canal to the Dee, in large quanti«
ties, for the improvement of the lands on each fide. It is
conveyed up the river, by means of thefe flats, as far as New
Galloway, to the diftance of 15 or x 6 miles *• Before the
late improvements in hufl>andry, the crops in this place were,
in general, very light ; and the grain, in quantity and quality,
inferior, by far, to what it is now.

jintiqmtiis^^^At the N. E. boundary of the parifh, there
is the veftige of an old Druidical temple, near to which there
is an abundant fpring of excell^t water. It was, probably held
lacred to the worfliip of the pagan God, Tbor. From this
temple, the farm in which it is fituated, feems to have deriv*
its name, Hbors or Tors, plural, being now divided into ttj^
fir, and netler.

When the water was let out of the Carlingwark loch, id
the year 17S59 at the mouth of the drain next to the Loch,

there

* lo the CarliJigwark Loch, there are piket, percket and eeh, which are coo-
ftuned in the ndghbovrhood.

vfKeltvn. , 305

tfaere was Ipund a dam^ or building of ftoiie, mofs, and clay ^^

which appears to have been deiigned for deepening the Loch.

Before it was drained, there were two iilcs in the Loch, the

Vol. VIII. Q^q one

* Befidet the ftone dam mentioned above, there wat one of oak wood aad
eiuth,at the ^nd of the town of Ca(Ue DougUn, now covered by the military
road. Aboat this place, many horfe-ihoeft were found, funk deep in the mud^
of quite a different make from thole now in ufe. Several very large (lag heads
were got in the Loch ; a large brafs pan was alfo found in it. Near the S. VTm
comer of the Loch, a brafs /i^frt, or dagger, %% inches long, and placed with pAAt
'was raifed from the bottom in a bag of macL The pngio is in the poffeflion oC
Mr. Gordon of Greenlaw. On the weft fide, near the feuth corner of the Loch«
between it and the military road, there is a fmall piece of riling ground, in viewoC
the cafUe of Thrieve ; , and difUnt from it, a full mile, called The GaOvwa Lwt,
On the top of this, ftood a gibbe* or gallows, upon which were executed thofe
whom Douglas, Lord of Thrieve Caftle, thought proper to criminate. Here, it
is faid, McClelland of Raeberry, Lord Kirkcudbright, was put to -death by the
command of Douglas, notwithftanding the king*a letters demanding his releafe*
This circumftance proved fatal to Douglas, his family and intereft, in this pare
of the country. The remains of Raebery lie buried in the church of KirkcoN
mock, as appears from the infcription upon a grave-ftone there. In the centre
of a cairn, near Gelfton, was found a ftone coffin, above 1 feet long, and 3 fi^
•wide, in' which were h«man bones, in length and thicknefn, larger by far tfaiA
the now common fize ; alfo a braf^ or copper helmet, with fome other in»ple*
ments of war greatly corroded. Not far from this place, a nicely carved um
•was dug out of the earth, filled with a reddifh duft. On theliills, near the S. E«
^boundary of the parifii, there are the veftiges of two large Daniih or Saxon en*
campments, of a circular form, and not far from one another; the one ziy, and
the other 68 pacts in diameter, ftroogly fortified with triple walls of ftone, of a
-great thicknefs In the S. E. border of the parifb, U^ewiie, there has anciently
been a pottery. The place, where th^ clay had been dug up for the work, i«
ftill very difcernible, and the fragments of earthen ware are frequently to be feea
•in the fields adjointng. From this work, the farm, in which it was fituated, has
derived its name, PttterUmd. There are feveral beautiful moau in the pariih,
and the ruins of a caftle that belonged to the Lords of Kirkcudbright, which had
been furroundcd with a wide and deep ditch, filled with water.

§ Tbi Cufih of TH%\Ty\ Jiamb ir/M an ifani fmrrounded by tbe Dee, and belongs' U
the farijb of Saimaghie. An Steuratt accQunt eftbii gnsitttt and foMUi Ca/UtWH^M
fienin Mr, GaoiK*s ^utipitittt

3o6 Statiftical Account

one near the north end, and the other pear the fouth end pi
it. Thefe ifles were places of reft, for large quantities of wa-
ter fowls, of various kinds, which annually came and bred
there ; even wild geefe, it is faid, have been fometixnes known
to breed on thefe ifles. There was always a tradition in the
, parifli, that there had been a town in the Loch, which funk,
pr was drowned ; and that there were two churches or chapels,
one on each of the large ifles : There is alfo a tradition, that
fhe cannon, with which James the I Vth. battered the caflle oi
Tbrieve^ was made, (that is, the ilaves were put together and
hooped,) at Buchan's Croft on the weft fide of the Loch. Onq
of the balls, weighing 48 pounds, picked out of the wall of
Thrieve, Is now at Greenlaw. The veftige, or foundation of
an iron forge, was difcoyered on the fouth ifle* Around it,
likewife, there had been a ftone building, or rampart; and,
from this ifle, to the oppofite fide, on the N. E. there is a
road of ftone fecured by piles of oak wood, with an opening,
fuppofed to have been for a draw-bridge. In feveral places
of the ^l^och, canoes were foi^nd, which appear to have been
' hollowed, after the manner of the American Savages, with
fire. On a fmall ifle, near the north end of the Loch, there
was found a large iron mallft or hammer, ftained on one end
with blood. It is now in the hands of the Anti(juarian So*
^iety at Edinburgh, s^nd is fuppofed to have been an inftru-
ment ufed by the ancient Druids, in killing their facrifices.
On feveral of the little ifles in the Lpch, were large frames of
black Oak, neatly joined. There are two fmall ifles, that
)iave b^en evidently formed by ftrong piles of wood driven in-
fo the mofs and marl, on which were placed large frames* of
^lack oak. The tops of thefe were fully fix feet under water
before the Loch was drained. The defign of thefe works is
{ot at prefent known.

Chara&er^

\bf,KeltGtu 36^

CiaraSeTf ^Vi— The inhabitants of Kelton are, in general,
an intelligent^ polite, fecial, and hofpitable people. In regard
to elegance in houfes, neatnefs of drefs and genteel livings
thej are equal, if not fnperlor to their neighbours around
them. The fentiments of the people of Kelton, with refpeA to
Religion and moralitj, are, forthe mod part, rational, juft, and
free froni bigotrj^^None belonging to the pariih, in the'me-*
jnorj of the oldeft now living, have fufiered the pains of law
for any capital crime. — ^There are four noted inns in the pa*
riihi and many fmall tippling houfes. Thefe little gin fhopS
have a ruinous effeA, upon the health and morals of the low-
er clailes of the people ; the adopting, therefore, fome effedual
tneafure for their fuppreiCon, wovild be a bufinefs not un-
worthy the attention of thofe, to whom the police of the
country is intrufled.

398 Statifiunt Jecovnf

NUMBER XVI
PARISH QF APPLEGARTH.

{County and Synod of Humfriet. — Prejbytery of Loebmahen^^

Situation^ Rivers^ Extent^ %!<:»

THE pariih of Applegarth, or Applegirtb, lies In that
part of the ihire (^f Dumfries, which was formerly caU
led the Stewartry ot Annandale. 1 he river Annan divides it
from the pariihes of Lochmaben and Johnfton, and the water
of Drjfe, for a confiderable way, from the parifh of Dryfdale.
Thefe two waters join together about a mile belew the
church. The fouthermoft part of the parifli, is of a triangu-
lar form. Its greateil length from fouth to north, is about 5,
and its greateil breadth from weft to eaft, about 5 miles. The
diftance from Dumfries, the county town, is about 11 miles^
and from Annan about 1 2.

Produce J Soil^ ifc — ^Thefe are alfo theneareft fea-port towns,
and to one or other of thefe ports, the grain produced in the
parifh is ufually carried, and from thence exported either to
England or Greenock. The barley is commonly fent to

Liverpool,

of Appltgarth. y^^

Liverpool, and the oat meal to Greenock, to fopplj Glafgow,
Paiflej, and the weft country, from which there is fometimes
a* coniiderable demand. The lands in the pariih, in general,
are good, efpeciallj upon the banks of Annan and Dryfe.
There is a good deal of what is called balm land, which bears
very good crops of barley and oats. Sowing of wheat is not
much ufed in the pariih, nor in this part of the country.
Lime, which is now greatly ufed as a manure, is brought, at
the diftance of 1 2 miles, from the fouthermoft part of the pa«
rifii, and is alfo carried to the high grounds, where the foil is
not fo good i and in general good crops are produced after
liming.

RoadSf ^r.— -The great turn-pike road from Carllfle to
Glafgow and Edinburgh, pafles through the parifh, from
fouth to north, about fix mile&. This road was made about
25 years ago, and has been of the higheft advantage to the im«
provement of this neighbourhood. A mail coach, from London
to Glafgow, pafles through the parifh, every day, along the
laid turn-pike road ; and carriers almoft daily trom Glafgow
to Carllfle, and the manufafturing towns in England. There
is a ftage in the parilh, viz. Dinwoodie Green, where the
mail coach ftops and changes horfcs. This ilage is only 5
miles diftant from the village of Lockerby, where there is a
poft office^ II miles from Ecclesfechan, and 1 1 from Moffat,
which are alfo flages, and have poft of&ces. Through the lat-
ter village, a diligence paflcs from Dumfries to Edinburgh,
3 times a- week, which renders travelling from this part of
the country, to Edinburgh and Glafgow, very eafy and con.<
venient. The parifh is diftant from Edinburgh about 60
miles, and nearly an equal diftance from Glafgow.

proprietors and Rent^r^Thetc are fix heritors in the parifh,^

but

31 0 Statljiical AicouAl

bat onlj one of them refides, viz. Sir William Jardin^ of Ap-»
pkgarth, Bart, who h^ s the moil confiderable property in it.
The valued rent is 6725 merks. The real rent is eftimated
at between 2800 1. and 3000 L Sterling ; but the proprietors
are not all willing to difclofe the amount of their rents.

Population. — ^The number of inhabitantSi in the parifli, have
greatly decreafed within the laft 15 jears/owing to the pro-
prietors of the lands, having conjoined a number of fmall
farms together, and let them to one tenant. The males and
females bom in the pariih are nearly equal. For the fpace of
15 years, there has been only eight more males bom. than
females. This, however, cannot be exa&ly aCcertained, for
the Seceders feldom enter the names of their children in the
regiller. The following table exhibits the ancient and pre^^
fent ftate of the population :

Population Table of the Parish of Appleqartb.
Population in the year 177 7, ... ^43
I755i - - - * 897

Incrcafe in 22 years, • • . • 46 ,

Population in X 792, « . . . « ^42

Decreafe, on the whole, in 37 years, - - Z56

Average of births, - - p • i^J

• - Number of males, • - - 357

« female*, - - - - 384

Members of the Eftabliihed Church, 685

■ Relief Congregation, - • 28
——-—>— Cameronians, ... 3
— — — Antiburghers, - - • 24
•— — Burghers, . • • - x

■ Proprietors refiding, • . i
—^........•i—...... non-rcfiding, * 5

Churchy l;^r.— -The manfe is an old houfe, built upwards of
(o years ago* The church is ficu.ated near the river Annan,

and

ff AppUgartb, :3ii

foid was built about 30 years ago. It IS large and well built,
apd fufficient, at prefent, to coutain the whole inhabitants of tl)e
parifli. It has a large jarn^ very commodious for difpenC
ing the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper, which , in fome of
the neighbouring parifhes, for want of room in the churches,
is difpenfed in the fields. The ftipend has beep, for upwards
of 60 years, 72 L Sterling, including Communion Elements ;
but the Lords of Council and Seffion have lately been pleaCr
ed to grant an augmentation of 4 chalders of viftual, 2 of
them meal, and a of them bear, which wi)l now make the «
ftipend 100 guineas a-year, or better. The glebe is verj
^all, only confiding of between 5 and 6 acres.

It is generally fuppofed, that there have been 2 parifiie9
annexed to Applegarth, viz. Sibbaldbie and Dinwopdie. It
is not certain, however, whether Dinwoodie was ever a diC«
tin& parifli or not. It appears rather to have been a Chapel
of £afe to Applegarth. Sibbaldbie has been a diftinA parilli ;
and, fome of the old people, now living, remember to have
feen the church ilandipg, of which there are ftill fome ve(ti«
ges. The minifter of Applegarth was in ufe to officiate oc-^
caConally at Sibbaldbie, The Marquis of Annandale claims
the patronage of Sibbaldbie. Sir William Jardine is patrqa
of Applegarth, and claims alfo the patronage of Sibbaldbie.

Schools and Poor. — There are 2 fchool-houfes lately built
in the parifh, at the expence of the heritors, who have volun«
tary afiefsed themfelves with the payment of 5 1. Sterling an-
nually, to one of the fchoolmafters, and 3 1. 6 s. 8 d. to the
Other. There are about 10 or 12 perfons in the pari(h on the
poor's lift, who occ^fionally get a fmall fupply from the col-
Jedions made in the church ; and, there is a mortification of
3 1. 6 s. 8 d. granted by the family of Applegarth, which, bj
fhe deed of mortification, is to be diftributed at the fight, and

3 11 StatifticaJ Account

by the advice of the Kirk-StiBony amongft the poor in tlic
baropy of Applegartti, and nine merk land of Sibbaldbie ;
which IS that part of the old parifli of Sibbaldbie, that belongs
to the eftate of Applegarth.

Fuel and Mills. — ^The common fuel is peats, the procuring
of wnich occafions a vtry great labour for the people, during
the whole of fumroer ; and, in wet feafons, the inhabitants are
^eatlj diftrefled for want of fuel in winter. There are 3
corn mills in the pari(h, a barley and lint mill were lately-
built on the water of Dryfe, and another lint mill is now
building on the water of Annaji.

Cattle and produce. — There are only > or 3 flieep farms 19
the pariih. The number of (heep does not exceed 1800 or '
aooo. There are about 1500 black cattle, i jo horfes, and
60 ploughs. The farmers, in general, are in tolerable good
circumftances ^ and, from the high prices of black eattle, (the
crops alfo being good after liming, and oats, meal and barley^
giving a good price,) they are now better able to pay their
rents, than they were fome years ago, though the rents have
been raifed coniiderably. The average price of barley is from
2 s. 6 d. to 3 s., the Winchefter buihel ; of oats 2 s. or 2 s. 6 d.
end oat meal z s. 8 d. or x s. «^ d. per ftone. Thefe are the
ftaple commodities by which many of the tenants pay their
rents. A confiderable number of black cattle alfo are reared
in the parifli ; and thefe, when about a year and a half old^
are fold for about 2 1. 10 s. or 3 L each.

Cultivation. — Several of the farmers are now getting into a
better mode of managing their farms, by fummer fallowing,
by fowing turnips, planting cabbage&, and other green crops ;
after which they fow barley with grafs feeds. It is not long

Jince

fff AppJegarth. 315

ftncethe fowing of barley ivas introdaced into the parifli. Bear»
which ftill moftlj prevails, was univerfally fown. Few of
the fjEurms are inclofed. It would be a very great improvemeat
to this part of the country, and of advantage to the farmers^
if their farms were all inclofed, and fubdivided with dykes,
and hedges. The hedges would thrive exceedingly well, as
the foil, in general, is good, and where they have been plant-
ed, they have thriven w^U.

Mifcellaneous Obfer^ati(ms.^^The fanners and the parifliionk
crs in general, are laborious and induilrious, and commonly
very healthy. Fevers^ or any epidemical diforders, feldom pre*
vail in the parifll, except the fmall pox, which carries off fo-
veral of the children* Moll of the country people ftill entertaia
ftrong prejudices againft inoculation, though not fo great as
formerly ; for feveral have been lately prevailed on to get.
their children inoculated, and theiie inftances have always
been attended with remarkable fuccels. — ^Many of the natives
live to a good ag«« There were, fome time ago, in the
.church, in one day, three old men, whpfe ages amounted to
270. Several of them live to tl^ age of 80 or jp, but few
or none to 100.— -There are no villages in the panib, nor ma#*
nufadures of any kind carried, on, except by a few weavers,
who ^e chiefly employed by the inhabitanl^A

Vol. VIIL R r KUM8EI

314 Statijiical Account

NUMBER XVII.
PARISH OF BEITH.

(C<n^ties of Jlyr and Renfrevt.^^FreJbyterj oflrvine^^'^jmo^
of G/a/gow and ^yr.)

By the Rev. Mr. Dayid M'Clxixak.

Situmion and ExtenU

THIS parifli lies within the coantj of Ajr, and difirift
of Cunninghain ; excepting 4 farms which beloog t«.
Renfrewlhire, on the border of which it is fituated. It ex^
tends about 5 miles in length* £rom £. to W. and its
breadth is about 4. The land rifes bj a gradual afcent from
S. to N. where there is a finall ridge of hills, whofe fummits
are elevated, perhaps about 400 £eet,aboi» the loweft ground
ifk the pari(h, o>r 500 feet above the leve^ of the fea.

Rini^ HtritorSt Cuktvationf l^e.«*-The valued rent, of that
part of the panih which lies in Ajrihire, is 61 15 L 24 s. ad,
Scotch; and that of the 4 farms in It^enfrewihire, 2^3 1* ^s*
8 d. The real rent is believed to be in Ibme places 6 timest
in others^ 8 times, and, perhaps in others, owing to their vi«
cinity to the town of Beith, the richnefs of the foil, or tho
high cultivation of the lands, even 12 tiflics the valued rent«

There

ofBeitb. 315

There are two circmnflances chieflj, which ferve to accounC
for tbe high tent of lands in this neighbourhood. The coan«
try is populous, and property is greatlj fubdivided. BeitK
is furrounded on all fides with cohfiderable villages and towns/
to the number of 12, within as many miles. The fiibdivi-
fion of property is more remarkable, in this and the neigh*
bouring parilbes, than perhaps in any other part of Scotland.
There are in this pariih 105 heritors, befides a confiderable
jDumber of fmaller proprietors in the Tillage* This circum-t
Aance is fuppofed to have much influence upon the cultiva^i
tion, and of confequence upon the produce and rent of lands*
The fmall land-holders generally refide upon their own pro*
perty ; and improvements made by any of them, in the cul-
tivation of their lands, and management of their farms, are
more readily adopted by the reft, than thofe introduced by
perfons who have lar^e eftates, or carry on farming upon a
more extcniive fcale, becaufe they are evidently more withiii
their reach. The lands in this parifli are almoft all arable^
and were generally inclofed many years ago. The common
pradice amongll farmers is to plough only a third part of
the arable ground annually, upon which they taife oats or
barley^ but feldom any wheat, peas or beans. Rye-grafs
feed is frequently fown, where the ground is rich, or well
manured } but very little clover is raifed, and fometimes hay
is made from the natural grafs. .

Cbeefey Cattle^ \Sc. — ^The tenants in this pariih pay their
rents chiefly from their dairy. They almoft univerfally make
fwieet milk cheefe. The method of making this cheefe was
firft introduced into this country, by a farmer's wife in the
parifli of Dunlop, about the beginning of this century ; and
from this circumftance, it has got the name of Dunlop cheefe^
It is a comilkodity which has been rifing in valae for a long

R r 2 f time

^i 6 StatiJRcdl Acctnthf

time paft. The prefentj>rice is 7 s. per ftone, cqQtaming 14 iW*
Englifli. About 100 cows are kept for the purpofe of mak-*^
jog cheefe. The average produce from each cow, b^des
what goes to the ufe of the Tamil j, is fuppofed to be 3 1. xo s.
Sterling per annum ; and coofequendy, the quantity of eheefe-
fent to the market annuallTv from this pariibi ihould bring t^
the farmers about 3500 1. *•

Roads and B ridges .^^The great road frotrt Glafgow, by
iPaifley, to Irvine, Ayr and Port-Patrick, paffes through the
town of Beith. It is much frequented, efpecialty in fummer*
A ftage coach, in fome feafons, ruus in that dire&ion fromGlaf-
gow to Ayr, three times a-week. The pariih roads, in feveral
places, are not in good repair, owing to the deepnefs of the
foil, or the fcarcity of proper materials. The ftatute labour
is paid in money. All the roads are well fupplied with
bridges, wherever they have been found neceflary. There
are no turnpikes in the pariih.

Ecclefiq/lical State. — The Earl of Eglintoun is Patron*
The ftipend paid to the minifter, by ufe and wont, (for there
13 no decreet for it,) is 79 bolls of meal, and 17 L la s. 6d. in
money. The old glebe, upon which a part of the village now
Hands, was exchanged in 1727, by a formal con trafi betweea
the Earl of Eglintcvun, the preftrytery of Irvine, and the in-
cumbent, for a fmall farm near the town of Beith, confiding,
as is mentioned in the contrad, of 31 acres 3 roods. It would
appear, that the preleat church was built foon after the refor-
mation. There is a ftone in the wall, with the date 1593
upon it J and there is a coat of arms, coarfely done, upon the

front

* For thift information, the writer of this paper h, indebted to a gentlcfliair'
vcr^ coa\eriant in country affairs.

tf BM. 317

front of a gallery, having the' date 1596, and marked with
the initials of Robert Montgomery of Giffaa^ a younger foD
of the Earl of Eglintoun, and his lady, who was of the family
of Loudoun. The church is built in the form of a crofs. In
1754, one of the afles was lengthened, fo a$ to admit of near«
ly 200 additional fitters. This was done at the expence of
the Kirk Seffion, with the advice and confent of the heritors,
for the behoof of the poof *.

Populatton.^-^A}}0\it the time of the revolution, or rather ear-
tier, t^e Kiri'^towtt o/Beitb^ as it was then called, is laid to have
confiiied only of 5 dwelling heufes, and the minifter*s manfe.'
Accordingly, the 5 feued houfes are mentioned, as a diAinft
article, in the cefs books. In the year 17 59, there were
about 700 examinable perfons in the town, and upwards of
800 in the country part of the parilh. The return to Dr^
Webfier, in 1755^ was 0064 fouls. The number of inhabi-
tants in the country, has continued much the fame ever fince ;
but ^he population of the town inereafed fo rapidly, that, in
J788, it cenuined nearly 1500- examinable perfons. Since
that period, ho^^'ever, it has rather decreafed. From a very
accurate enumeration taken lately, with a view to be inferted

in this paper, the population was found to be as follows :

* From a Latin infcription upon a grave-ftone in the chttrch-yard, it appears,
that Mr. William M^iTLii^D was minifler here, from 1669 to x68x, when
he died at the age of 46. It is (aid that he was one of thofe who accepted the
indulgence. The old people fpeak of fonie curates who fncceeded him, but none
of them were of any note. The third minifterof Beith, after the revolution,
w&s Dc^ William Liichman, late principal of the Univerfity of Olafgow, in
1736 ; who, in I744» was fuccecded by Dr. John WoTHaaspooii, now Prefi*
dent of PrincetowD College, New Jerfey, to whom the prefent minifter, fuececd-
cd in X7jS,

01^ Statifiical Accouni

Tanulies. Males. .Females. Toui.

Id tlie town, 4S8.

In the /ooDtiy, ai6.
In the whole parifli, 704. 15^0. 1512. 2872.

Majority of femdes, 17 a.

Births gnnutUy taken at an srer^e, in periods of 4 years iince I *ii^»

Period X. from I759 to X76a^incIiiiTe, - 57}

' a. 3. 4* X763 -^ I774f ■ from - 60J to 6x J

— ~5. 1775 — 1779. - - 7»i

6.— .1779 — i'8ai - - 87f '

7. X783 — 178^, - - 93t

In 1787 and 1788, - • - - - 111

— X789andX790y - - . - . • 89

No regifter of bilrials is kept in this parifii ; apd therefore^
mo calculation, to be depended upon, can be made, ^ith re^
gard to t^e proportion of deaths to births.

Climate^ tiiftafis^ l^r.— -There are icvetal perfons, both in
the town and country, above 80 years of age, but none fo old
as 90. The climate does not a]^pear to be very favourable to
longevity. Owing to the elevated lituation of the cotintry,
and its vicinity to the weftern ocean, we have frequent rains
and ilorms ; and the air contains a greater degree of moifture,
than in places removed' to a confiderable diftance from the^
Atlantic. There is frequently a good deal of licknefs in the
> village. The difeafes moft common are fevers and confudip-
tions : the croup * and fncall pox fomdtitkles prove very fatal im
children. The people, in general, are averfe to inoculation.
No remarkable inftance of longevity is known to have occurred
amongft thofe who have refided in the parifli. A native, hawi
ever, of this place, named Mattbtw T^zir, died upon the 19th

* Or Cyritmcbe TraeSgaiu, See the note, p. 273«

ofBeitb. 319

^f January lafi, in the parifii of Auchinleck, at the very wL-
yanced age of 123 years. According to his own account,
he was bom at the farm of Willieyards, but left the pariih
when young, and inlifted in the army. He ferved as a pri^
yate foldier, at the taking of Gibraltar by the Britifh 14
1704. His name is not to be found in our regifier ; but it is
known, that there was a family of the name of Tait, at WiU
^eyardS| more than a century agQ. and fbmc Qf their relations
ftUl live ia the parifh^

Trade and ManufaSures.*^ About the time of the union
of the two kingdoms, a trade in linen cloth was introdu-
ced into this place, which became (b coniiderable, that the
Beith markets were frequented by merchants from the neigh-
bouring towns every week. Many houfes, foon after this,
were built on the old glebe, upon tack rights granted by the
ininiiler ^or half a merk Scotch, of rent per fall ; and, whea
the Glebe was afterwards exchangedt the £arl of Eglintoua
became bound to grant feu eights to the holders of thefe tack
rights, upon equitable conditions, particularly fpecified. About
the year 1730, the linen bufinefs, which had greatly declined,
was fucceeded by a coniiderable trade in linen yam. The
Beith merchants purchafed the yam made in the country
around, and fold it to the Paifley and Giafgow manufafiurers.
This trade, when carried to its greateft extent, about the
year 1760, is fuppofed to have amounted to 16000 1. Sterling
yearly j and though it has long been upon the decline, lineal
yam is ftill a confiderable article of merchandife. The de-
mand for this commodity encouraged the farmers to raife
great quantities of flax. About 60 hhds. of flax feed were fold
in this town annually. From 1777 to 1789, the manufadure
ff filk gauze was carried on to a great extent in this place,

particularly

3«Q

Stati/Hcal Acfount

paitunilarlj by the Meflcs. Faltons of Patflej. Thej tmjflibf^
.ed at one time 270 iiooms. Confiderable quantities were alfo«
at the fame time, manufaftured by perfons ia the employ-*
Daeat of other companies. This bufinefs has alfo greatly failed*

Prefent fiate of Trade and M anufaftures ia the pariih o£

Bcith.

Namber of Extenfive Works.

Nomber of perfons employed

Candle works.

in making thread.

Xicenfed diftillcn,

— WeaTing muflin,

Tobacco MannfaAnriog Company, z

filkgan«c.

Taq-work,

3»

jMalt work.

Com mills.

• •

In all.

♦i>

Xiiot mills, «

■ •

Befides many females employ-

Waakmill, •

ed in fewiag and tambou>
ing muflin, .
Namber of Merchants, &c«

Number of Artificers, &c.

Cloth merchants.

Mafons,

Grocers, - ^ -

Houfecarpemers,

Yam merchants,

Sodlers,

BookfeUer%

Shoemakers^ •

- ■

»9

Sfwi^h*! •

Coopers,

Number of perfons in odier Profe&

Bakers

lions or iltttations of Life.

Taylors, -

»3

Bankers t, ...

- ft

Hai drefiers, -

Surgeons, • ^ »

'Watchmaker,

Dniggift, ...

Barbers,

Juftices of the Peace f ,

. %

Batchers,

Keepers of licenfed public houfes, 17

Hatter,

Carriers and cartels.

—

Dyke bnilders,

ift6

Day labourers.

Number of Perfons employed

in fpinning cotton.

'50

1^4

* Tint gentlcwiaHsJbep generally centatmt aUut 3000 vtltimit*
f Tte/e gentlemeH art- agents/or tie Paifley tanh
§ A wwObly court u t$U in ibe fow* af BM^

tfBeitb. 3a I

We liaire 3 principal fairs antmall/,/ and a weekly market
iipon Friday. There is often a fine ihew of horfes in the Beith
markets, efpeciallj on the 30th of Auguft, St. Tennanfi day^
(fuppofed to be a corruption for St. Anthonys day^ and on
feveral Fridays in the beginning of fpring. It iH obvioua
from the above ftatementi that the population of the town of
Beith increafed with its trade ; and that the prefent decreafe
in the number of its inhabitants, is owing chiefly to the do*
dine of the filk roanufadure, and to the eztenfive cotton
works erefted in the neighbourhood, particularly in th^ pa^
tiih of Lochwinnoch, and at the town of Johnftone, in the pa«
riihofPaifley.

Poor. — ^Thc funds for fupporting the poor are the weekly
coUedions at the church door } the hire of the mortcloths ;
the rent of the poor^s aile, the feats of which are let yearly by
roup; the rent of a fmall farm, pnrehafed with ^ the poor's
money in 1695, and a fmall proportion of the dues of procia*
mation of marriages. The average amount of thefe funds^
from Whitfunday annually^ appears, by the regifter, to be as
follows :

Tram From

Total of each

From I7J7 to 1770.

2770 to 1780 1780 to 1790

in 347etfi.

CoIIeaiont, la. 18 II •

L. 36 5 8 I..41 I 4i

L. 105 18 oi

Mortclotht, 6 6 io|

5 x6 it 8 ij 4*

ao x8 9

8eatreiitt» t % o\

iz 9 6 15 » 10

35 15 4i

ttcrm rent, 609

9 10 0 15 0 0

1-.63 1 7i JL.79 »9 ;•

30 10 9

Total funds X,. 49 i ^^

L.193 % 9i

The colledion lad year amounted to upwards of 45 L and

it is fiiU upon the increafe, though we have various difienters,

Vol. VII. S f and

* Thi poor's Jhart of the duu fir pr^maH9n rf mtrri^pi^ at an w/vnagftfif fU
tafl 10 year*, f[f X /• 12 /• 9 ^. eaumtUlj*

522 Stati/lical uiccount

and though the population of the town has begun to decline*
Befides the diftributions» which thefe funds enable the Seflion
to make to the poor, they fometimes receive a temporary ai^
liftance from occafional charities *•

Cbaritahli Societies. — There are three charitable focieties
inBeith; two of thofe commenced in 177a. One of thea
has 22a 1. of fiock and the other 370 1. The third com-
menced in 1784, and its funds amount to 300 1. The advan-
tage of thrfe infiitutions has already been fenfibly felt* by
thofe of the poor who are entitled to their charity. The
funds of thefe focities, are depofited in the public banks for
fccurity. In 178a and 1783, the funds of the two firft men-
tioned focietiesy together with 40 1. furniihed by the Kirk
Sefliony were employed under the dire&ion of a Committee^
in purchafing grain and meal for the ufe of the inhabitants.
The roe$iL was fold to the inhabitants in general, a^the market
price ; but to the members of the focieties, and to the po^r
^d. cheaper per peck, by proper perfons appointed to rhis
office, who received a fmall allowance for their trouble. From
the 28th of October 1782, to the 14th of September 16S?,
above 1 000 bolls were fold in this manner. As the object
was to fecure plenty, a premium of 6 d. per boll was given
for 230 bolls of the above quantity, which had the defired ef«
fed.

Since charitable focieties are evidently of great utih'ty to
the poor, it is a pity they flibuld labour under any difadvan«
tages, tending to check the ardour of that benevo.eiice, to
which they owe their exigence. They certainly defervc
every encouragement from the friends of mankind^ and are

even

* A committee of heritors annually ezamiac the accoo&ts of the poor's money,

i ji i giTc a difchargc to the trcafurcr.

o/Beitb. 523

' even entitled to the countenance of government^ and the pro-
tedion of law. It would doubtlefs ferve the caufe of humanity
much, to confer upon them fuch privileges, as might enable
them more fully to carry into effed the laudable purpotes of
their inftitutton ; and to put them under proper regulations,
fanftioned by an aQ of the legiflr.ture in their favour ; declar-
ing amongft other things, that fuch afibciations are legal, and
their rules, with regard to their own members, capable of
being enforced by law :-— that they have a right to make fuch
bye-laws as (hall not contradid any ftatute law of the realm,
or the original rules of their allociatlon ; — that their articles of
agreement muft be regiftercd in the Iheriff court books of the
cpunty to which they belong ;— ^that they fhall lodge their
cafli with fome banking company for fecurity : that they
ihall be exempted from ftamp duties oh bills and receipts, in
regard that- their funds belong to the poor : that it ihall be
«s competent for them, as for individuals, to purchafe and dif-
pofe of property in lands or houfes ; and that their capital ihall
not be allowed to accumulate abpve a certain fum, or beyond
a certain number of years. Such privileges and regulations
as thefe, confirmed by legal authority, it is apprehended,
would encourage the formation of fuch focieties, and thereby
great relief would be afforded to thedeferving poor ; — any de.*
ficiency of the ordinary charitable funds would be made up,
and the neceifity of poor's rates prevented ; which muft al«
ways be an objed of importance to the nation ; and with fuch
views thefe remarks are fubmittied to the confideration of tha
public.

Vagrant Poor.^The great number of flranger poor, who
wander through the country, has long been complained of,
not only as a burthen, but as a nuifanfce ; and to encourage
-them, is to encourage idlenefs, theft, and debauchery. In 178^^
a vigOFous attempt was made to prevent them from begging

S £ 2 4a

3^4 Stattfilcal Account

in this pariOi. The parlfaioiiers, ia general, fabrcribed 9
papcTi binding tbemfelves neither to lodge vagrant beggars^
nor give them alms. Several of the inhabitants were ap9
pointed to aft as conftables, in apprehending and carryiog
them out of the parilb ; any expences neceiTary for this pur-*
pofe wert to be paid by the heritors. At the fame time, the
poor of this place were furniihed with certificates, whiph au-i
thorifed them to b^g within the pariih* The good confe-
rences of thcfe meafares were, for feme time, remarkable.
Such regolatioos^ perhaps, might not be fo fuitable for large
towns ; but, were they generally adopted in coantry pariihes,
they would, in all probability, have the moft falutary effc&s^
Vagrants would be effedually excluded ; the charity of every
parifli would be bellowed upon its own poor, and there would
)>e lefs occafion for ftents and fuch legal methods of raffing
fupplies for the poor, as are always burthenibme to the public,
and frequently prove the occafion. of cruelty and. additional
diftrefs, to thofe objeds of fyinpathy they are intended to re-
lieve.

friooA— In the pariih fchool, the following branches are
Uught: Latin, Greek, French, £ngliih. Writing, Arithme-*
tic. Book-keeping, and the praAical branches of the Mathe*
matics. The number of fcholars, for fome years paft, has
been from 60 to 90. The fchoolmafter's falary is 1 1 1. Ster*
ling, fubjed to the deduftion of 3 1. to be divided equally
among the teachers of three fmall fchools in the country, who
are chofen by the people in the neighbourhood, and are en^
titled to this encouragement upon their keeping fchool, for
4 months in the year. There are aUb two private fchools in
the town which are well attended.

of Btitb. 325

Dt^/tfrx.^-There are two difienting meetings in the towfi
of Bftith : One of them, which is attended bj that clafs of Sece«
ders, called Antiburghers^ commenced above 30 years ago^
The firft minifter ordained to this charge foon after renounced
his connexion with that fociety, and embraced the communion
of the £(labli(hed Church. He publiflied at Edinburgh in
^764,, the teafons which induced him to this meafure, under
the title of Ji/anwel Addrefs to the AJfociate Congregation of
Biitb^ by John Laidly^ A. M. It muft be mentioned to the
honour of thia congregation, that they co*operate, as far as
their weekly colledions can allow them, with the Eftabliihed
Chnrch, in fupporting the poor of the parifh. They contri-
.bute foj: this purpofe at the rate of about 7 1, annually, which
is diftribuled jointly with the pariih funds formerly mention-
jed ;— -an example worthy to be imitated; by all diflenters.
The other diflenting meeting is connefted with the fociety,
.who are called Relief. It commenced about 9 years ago.

Antiquities. — Before the reformation, there were 2 chapels
for public worfhip in this parifh ; one where the prefent
church now ftands, (whereof a fmall fragment of the wall is
Aill to be feen,) and the other upon the lands of Treehom,
one end of which remains entire. This chapel, with two
acres of land adjoining to it, belonged to thp monaftery of
Kilwinning, as appears from a charter under the great feal,
in the pofiefiion of Che proprietor, dated in the year 1594 *•

There were formerly feveral caftles, or fquare towers in
the pariQi. All of them have been razed to the foundation
but one, which forms at prefent a ftately ruin. It was an«
tiently the feat of the Montgomeries of Giffan.

Lake

* ^ ^emaimodumttfa it pr4t£&a tajtella de trutrne^H ium aer^ Urrantm adJMeemf
** cumfuis pertintntiimt ptrfrm mwafitrio it KMwwnitig'^ tantptam part patrinnml^ptv
*f tmutrvnt**'

/^26 Stati/licai Account

. Lake and Ftjb — Kiibirnie Locb^ which lies at the weft ciiH of
this parifli, is fomething more than a mile long, and about
half a mile broad. It contains trouts, pikes, perches, &c.
and is frequented in hard ^inters bj many aquatic birds, fuch
as ducks, geefe, fwans, &c.

Fuel^ Minerals^ li?^.-— Both peats and coals are ufed for fuel,
•but chiefly the latter. Peats are always ufed in drying com*
and for the purpofes of the dairy. The extent of oiols is
very inconfiderable. Goals are found in many parts of the
pariih, but have never been wrought with great fuccefs. We
are plentifully fupplied with that ufeful commodity, from the
neighbouring pariihes of Dairy, Lochwinnoch, and Kiibirnie :
and this appears to be the principal ceafon, why proper efforts
have not .been made, to turn our own coal to greater advao-
tage. We have abundance of whin ftone, and free ftone is
found very frequently, but of an inferior quality. There is,
however, a remarkable fpecies of free (lone near the weft end
/of this pariih It lies in horizontal lamina^ or flakes, to a
jconiiderable depth, and thefe are from a to 6 inches thick, and
from 3 to 4 or 5 feet fquHre, It does not receive the fame
poliftt as other fretftone, but is of a very firm. contexture, and
greatly valued on account of its flrength It is ufed chiefly
ior pavements, and for bridges over fmall rivulets. It bears
the weight of the heavieft carriages. The limcftone in this
pari(h is inexhauftiUe : befides the gKat quantities annually
Jburnt by the farmers upon their own lands, for manure, there
are 2 public lime-works, which have a regular and extenfivc
fale. Several beds of ftone marie have been lately dil'covcr^
ed, and many rich veins of iron ftone.

PetrifaBions. — There are various fpecimens of figured
ilones^ and upon fomc of them, the iropr^nions are exceeding-

ef Beitb. 527

ly beautiful. The Hme done abounds with petrifaftions of
ihellS) entrocbi and other marine produaions ; the exuvia of
the ancient ocean. In the lands of Robert Montgomery Efq,
of Bogilown, fome years ago, filicious petrifactions were diP-
covered, fimilar to thofe found in calcareous fubftances ; the
fhells poffefling the fpecific qualities of the flint in which thej
were incorporated. Thefe curious and uncommon produc
tions of nature were probably the firft of the kind difcovered
in this part of the world ; at lead they were the firft that
Ibme of the ableft chemifts in this country had feen. Silici-
ous petrifactions have been iince found both in England and
Scotland, but very rarely.

PropSfed Improvements ^^^Th^ cultivation of trees is much
negleded in this country. Excepting the policies^ or pleafure
grounds, around a few country feats, there is very little grow-
ing wood in this neighbourhood, though there are few places
where it is more neceffary. Were proprietors to plant a ,
fmall proportion of their land, it would certainly prove of
great advantage to the foil, as well as afford a flielter for
cattle, in fo expofed.a fituation.

Were a navigable canal carried acrofs the country, from
the Clyde below Paifley, to the fea at Irvine or Saltcoats, it
would be of effential fervice to this part of the kingdom, and
to the public in general. The diitanoe is upwards of 20
miles. Nature feems to poin^t out the line of communica-
tion, through a narrow ilrath, running in that direction moil
of the way. In the middle of this; it rath ftands the loch of
Kilbirnie, about an equal diftance from each end of the pro-
pofed canal, and it occupies alfo nearly the higheit ground be^
tween them. A ftream runs from the north end of this loch in-
to the Clyde below Faifley, and the water of Garnock, running

itt

3 ^B Statjftical Account

in an oppofite diredion, pafles by the other end of it, an ^
empties itfelf into the iea at Irvine. The fall, from the north
end of Kilbirnie Loch to Clyde, is calculated to be abotit 95
feet, and the declivity towards the fea can not be much
more. Were this plan pot in esecutjon, befides fenring-
many other commercial purpofes, it would lay open immenfe
treafures of coal, lime and iron flone. But (hould this be
thought too ezpenfive an undertaking, a canal of only half the
propofed length, joining Kilbirnie loch, either to the Clyde or
to the fea, would 11 ill be an objeft of great importance* Co$t'
Jidering thiprtjtnt high price and/carcity of COALS^ any propo*
Jal tending to enable proprietors 0/ coals ^ at a diftancejrom pot*
pulous cities^ to carry them with advantage to marht at home
or abroad^ deferves their regard. And any improvements fug-
gefted with a view to fecure plenty, or to lefien the price of a
commodity fo nfeful and neceiTary, has a claim to the pub<^
lie attention.

Whatever reafon. there might be, to impofe a fervitude upon
llie farmeis in former times, for encouraging the erefiiion of
corn milU, thirlage is at prefent juftly confidered, not only in
many in (dances to be inconvenient, but in general burthen*
fome. The multure and other perquifites paid to the miller,
and his fervants, amount in fome places to the -iV or fVy or even
-^ of the produce. This is a heavy tax upon agriculture, and
it lays the tenant under temptation to carry part of his grain
elfewhere, to the prejudice of the miller, as often as he can
avoid detection. It would be of advantage, therefore, both
to the holders of land, and the proprietors of mills, in this
and other pariihes, were the latter obliged to fell, and the for«
nier to buy up this fervitude at a moderate value. i

No. XVIlLr

of Guthrie* 329

NUMBER XVIII.

PARISH OF GUTHRIE.

{County of Angttt. — Prejbytery of Arbroath t— Synod of Angus
and Mearns^

By the Rev. Mr. William Millioak, Minifler of
KiRKSEN *•

Situation^ Surface^ Soil^ and Extent*

THE pariih of Guthrie is divided into two parts, one of
which is 6 miles diftant from the other* and lies dire£t-
\j fouth from it. The inhabitants of the foutheni part, ia
going to their own pariih church, pafs through the parifhes of
Dunnichen, Kirkden, and Refcobie. This part is called Kiri'-^
buddo^ where it is faid there was once* a chapel for religious
worihip. The moor of Montrithmont, nearly a plain, con->
lifting of about 5000 acres, which was a common, probably
ever fince it was covered bj the fea, has been divided among
Vol. VIIL T t t the

* This account was drawn up by Mr. MiIL'gan, at the defire of Mr. Thomas
Ceaio, mkiifter of Guthrie, who has been fettled in that diftrid for 39 years ;
but, being presented by'in^pofition, from drawing up the account himfelf, rc-
^ucfied Mr. MiUigan to take the trouble of doing it.

330

Statiftical Account

the proprietors of the furrounding pariihes of Kirkden^ Kin-*
nelly Fernel, &c» who are enclofing and planting their feveral
proportions. About 370 acres of this moor have fallen ta
the (hare of the pariih of Guthrie. Almoft the whole nor-
thern part of the pariOi finks gentlj to the (bath and eaft,
from the top, near to the north weft end of it, called the
Hill of Guthrie^ the higheft part of which is probably not
much more than 500 feet above the level of the fea. There
is no hill, in the (buthem part of the pariih, but the lowed
ground in it is probably near 700 feet higher than the fea.
Moft of the parifli, efpeciaUj the fouthera part, is too wet.
The annexed table ftates accuratelj, the extent and kinds of
land in the foutbem part of the parifli, being the contents of
a map from a late menfuration. The northern part is
taken from the proportions of oats, barley, peafe, &c. fown
by the different farmers according to their own reports, and
cannot be fuppofed (o accurate, llie extent of it is^ probably,
rattier more, than is Hated in the table*

' Extent of the Parifli.

•Number of Acrci, &e. North part.

South part.

TotaL

A. R. F.

A. R

R. F.

Inpafturc, * - 51 0 0

xoo %

»6

X5X

a a6

Arable, - - XijS 0 0

68a X

xSao

t 7

Iji moor, * - 370 0 0

186 3

55^

3 H

Under moff.

85 »

» 39

• 0

, %

0 36

wood, - - 15 0 . 1

49 I

a6tx

X %

Gro(9 eonunts^ « 1574 0 I

no; 0

0 I

Crops in x

791

Number of acres under barley.

»44

3J4

- •

a —

•

688

Brought

ofCtttbrU. . 331

♦

Brought over, 688
KiunberofatfetiiDder potatoes - * . . j^,

— — «— — Grafs, - - - - 37*

-i— ——■'—* fidlow. - - . . i6

Total, 1x38

jSgriculture and Cattle^ (^r.— There is a vegular rotation of
crops, in the foathem, as well as in the northern part of the
pariih, and probably about the fame proportion ^f oats, bar-
lej, peafe. Sec. ; but it is divided into fuch linaU parts, that it
was impoffible to ftate them accurately. There are fix farms
in the fouthem part, vit« one of 169 acres ; one of 65 ; one
of 45 ; one of 47 ; one of 39; and one of 33 acres, all arable :
and the reft of the eftate of Kirkbuddo is divided into no
lels than 25 fmall farms. The number of cattle and horfes
are in proportion to the grafs, and the lands in cultivation.
There are not above 3 or 4 faddle horfes, and fcarcely any.
flieep or hogs.

Rent and Proprietors. — ^The average price of land, lately let
In the northern part, is about X5 s. and in the fouthem part,
10 s the acre. The valued rent of the pariih is 1500 U Scotch,
and the real rent above 1000 1. Sterling. The pariih is di*
vided among 3 proprietors, only one of whom, (Guthrie of
that ilk,) refides in it about 7 months of the year.

*
Cbitrchf School and Poor.'-^Tbc kirk, and fchool are fitu*
ated in the northern part of the pariih. The manfe is old
and ruinous. The ftipend, including 2 chalders of meal, at
the ordinary converfion, is below 50 L Sterling* The glebe
is a legal one. The church is an elegant building for fuch a
country pariih. The walls, or at leaft a part of them, are
iaid to be about 300^years old, and they may (land for zooo

T t a years

332 Statiftical Account

years to come. Mr. Guthrie of Guthrie is patron *. The
fchool-mafter is well qualified for his office. The {alary, in-
cluding kirk dues, may be between ill* and xal. Sterling.
The fchool fees are the fame as thofe of Kirkden. The fcho«
lars are numerous, but the fouthem part of the parifli can
reap no advantage from the fchool. The weekly cpUedions,
and the intereft of a fmall fum of money, are found fufficient
for the maintenance of the poor, of which there are at prefent
only two fupported by the public funds, and two or three who
receive fmall fums occafionally*

Po^»/3/ioii.— The people, almoft without exception, are
fbber, indufirions and contented ; and a few excepted, all
belong to the Eftablifhed Church. The return to Dr. Webfler,
in Z755f was 584 fouls. By a particular enumeration, taken
in 1792, the number, ages and profeifioiks of the inhabitants^
appeared to be as follows :

Number

* The pariih was ereifted into s provoftry by one of his predeceflbn, at 8p«
pears by the followiog citation from an old author, who had written an account
of the different diocefes of Scotland.

** Guthrie, in the Ihire of Anj^ns or Forfar, was a collegiate church, founded
** by Sir David Guthrie of that ilk, who was Lord High Treafurer in the reign
** of King James the III. for a provoft and three prebendaries, the number of
*' which was afterwards increal'ed by Sir Alexander Guthrie of that ilk, his fon
*' and heir, who was (lain at the battle of Floudon, in the year 15 13.** Hen<r
ry Guthrie, biihop of Dunkeld, was defcended of a younger fon of this ancient
fiunily* Families, like individuals, often rife> to ftrength and notice, and de-
cline again into weaknels and obicority, fometi^es fuddenly and fometimea
more flowly. This old family feems not yet the worfe of age. John Guthrie,
£fp; of that ilk, polTefles a fine eftate in the ihire of Angus, thoujih his prede-
ceiT'^rs were advanced to the )iigheft honours, as far back as ^ reign of Jamai
the lit

of Guthrie,

333

Number of perfons

In the northern part.

In the fouthem.
Males. fenules.

Total

YJpder lo ycwra of age, .
Between lo & ao —

43
36

3«

148
X4X

ai4

50 & 70 —

zSS
zoS

4
166

a
108

10^
166

Total of males,
Hence there

296) - - and females,
is a decreafc withm thefc 40 yean

V5
of

571
13

Number of families, - 76

■ Farmers, -. 14
■' Weavers, - 17

■ ■ ■ Taylors, - 5
p,. Shoemakers, - a

. Smiths, - X

■ Coopers, - z
p. — Wrights, - »

Number of Merchants, - a

■I Brewers, - t

— Retailers of liquors, %
' Male fervants, m 50

. Female ferants, - 33

— *— -~ Tradelmen's (SBrrants, ix

— Apprentices, - %

In the year

lift, of Births, 3cc. for the laft zb years.

Baptiihis. Marriages. BnriaUk
Z78a there were
X783
1784
Z7«5
J786

J 787
Z788
1789
1790
179X

Total in zo ytartt
Average,

Fuel. — ^Thc northern part of the parifli is fupplicd with
•oaU from Arbroatbi ud tb^ fouthcrn part with peats from

....

•— ..

X39

Z3 9-10

33-XO

9 7-Xo

^^4 Statiftical Account

a mols, part of which is in the parifh. Coals are ufuall j
from 6 8. to 6 8. 8 d. ; but . this year they have been 7 s. at
the loweft, and for 4 or 5 months paft 8 s» the cart load, of
70 ftone Amfterdam weight*

Antiquitm^'^xx the fonthem part of the parifh of Guthrie,
there are upwards of 15 acres of moor, which are part of a
Koman csunp. Ihe reft of it is in the parifh of Inveraritj.
The vallum and fojffa are jet very diftind, and of a con-
fiderable height and depth. 'Die c^t of Guthrie, fuppofed
to have been built by Sir AfaaHrfer Guthrie, wha wau flain
m Haiiilnnj is a ftrong building, and is ftill entire. The walls
are about 60 feet high, and xo feet thick. It has a prodigi-
ous maf&ve iron door* This caftle and its door are at onoe
a monument of the ancient grandeur of the family of Guthrie,
and of the rudenefs and barbarity of thofe times, when men
could not live fecure, but in fuch ftreng towers. The gar-
den of Guthrie is a mixture of ancient and modem tafte ;.it
has feveral beautiful box hedges cut in various figures, and in
perfeft prefervation, though very ancient. Some fuppofe the
garden to be nearly as aid as the caftle. %

No. XIX.

•f Clenorcby and IniJhaiU 235

NUMBER XIX.

UnitedPARisHES of GLENORCHAYand INISHAIL.

(Pre/byiery of Lom^'^ynod and County of Argyll^

By the Rjpo. Joseph MacikttrE) D. D.

Ereiiion and Name »

THE pariihes of Glenorchaj and Inlfhail were conjoined
into one cure, in the year i6i8. B7 a committee of
parliament, met at Inveraraj, in the year 1650, thefe pariihes
were disjoined, on account of their great extent, and continu-
ed feparate till the reftoration ; when, by the memorable J2^*
/ciffbry A8i they were again united, and have continued lince
under the paftoral charge of the fame incumbent.

The parifli of Glenorchay derives its name, from the vale
where the church is built. It was formery called CLuhan Dyfart^
a Celtic word, fignifying, ^* The Temple of the Highefi." The
place, where the pariib church (lands, was probably the fite of
the Clachan^ or ** Circle of ftones," of the Druids. Dyfart
properly means 7%« Highefi God. The founders of a church,

defigned

33^

Statifiical Account

defigned for a more enlightened worfliipy in order to induce the
Pagan inhabitants to attend the inftitutions of revealed religion,
were naturallj led to make choice of a fituation, the more re-
vered by them^ as being the place where thej had foriDcrlj
becfn accuftomed to perform their rites of devotion *• Im/b"
aii^ or Beautiful IJU^ is fo named, from that green and piftu-
refque ifland in Lochow, onee the fite of a fmall nunnery of
the Ciftertian order"; and where, in a ruinous chapel of that
religious houfe, public worlhip was alternately performed, till
the year 1736. A church, more commodious for the parifli,
was then built on the fouth fide of the lake, oppoiite to Inif-
hail.

Extent and Situation. — The length of the united parifhes,
from £. to W» is above 24 meafured miles. The breadth is va-
rious and unequal. They are fituated on the borders of the county
of Perth, near the village of Clifton, and inn of Tayndrom,
one of the higheft inhabited fituations in North Britain. Here,
a fmall rivulet marks the divifion of (he counties of Argyll
and Perth ; part of which runs eaftward into Loch Tay, and
falls into the German fea ; and part runs weftward into Loch«
ow, and difcharges itfelf, at Bunaw^ into an Arm of the At-
lantic ocean. The church of Glenorchay is 15 miles N.E.
from Inveraray, the chief town of the fhire, and the feat of the
courts of juftice ; and is nearly at an equal diflance S. E. from
Bunaw *.

Surface^

* Cordiner*8 Antiquities.
* At this place there is a confidcrable falmon fiihing and iron foundery ; and
a quay is built on a fecure an^ well (hcltered bay for vefiels of fmall burden,
which plyoccafionallf, to Liverpool, WhitehaTenvUlterftDn,and other placet,
]oaded with pig-iron, tanner's bark« kelp and falmon ; and import In return, iron
ore, meal, coals, tanned leather, ftoue-ware, and other articles of commerce.

%f Cknorcbay and Ini/baiL 337

Surface and ;Fof/.— -Excepting the vale of Gleaorchay,
'Which forms a beautiful plain of more than 3 miles in length,
and half a mile in breadth^ the plains of Auch, of Auchal*
lader, and part of the lands of Hajfield, the country exclu-
fively is mountainous and hillj. The river Urchay winds
in a gentle current through the vale, dividing it into two
-equal parts. On each fide of the river, the foil is a mixture
of light earth and fand ; and on the fides of Lochow, as fac
as the parifli extends, it is. generally a deeper earth and richer
loam, on beds of till or gravel. The glebe, on which the
church and manfe are built, is a beautiful oUoag ifle, formed
by the river Urchay. It is in the centre of the valley and
above a mile in circumference, and every where bordered
with natural terraces and ibelving banks i and fringed with
coppice and various kinds of tree«a to the very edge of the
xivcr.

Produce and Culiivation^'^The <:rops produced, on thefe
lands, are the blainfley,^ the early white, and the fmall grey
«oats ; Scotch bear, potatoes, a few field turnips, fome artificial,
and much natural, as well as meadow grafles. This ordinary
return from oats is from 3 -to 4 feeds; of barley, from j to 7,
and from the boll of potatoes, from 12 to ao. The annual
change of the difierent feeds is found to be of great advaUi-
tage, as the fame feed, fown fuccefiively for years, in the fame
foil, becomes gradually fmall and unprodudive. It is cuf-
tomary, yearly, to import quantities of feed oats from the high
grounds near the Kirk of Shotts, and from feveral parts of
Perthfhire. Culinary plants are coming more and more in«
to general ufe in this country ; Some years ago it required the
i|)fluence of the landlord ; and in fome places, an exprefs fti» .
pulation in the leafe, before the common people could be got
40 plant greens, or fence a garden.

Vox.. Vill. U » Poiatoei.

338 Stati/ltcal Account

Potatoes,^^^o where arc potatoes cultivated with more car<j
or thrive better. Thej are mofilj planted in drills, and hoe<l
by the plough • The largeft are always feleftcd for feed.
Thq kinds chieflj ufed, are thofe called here, the London Lady.
a prolific and fweet potatoe ; the long white^ the dun^ the
VJifit the early red^ and the purple* From all of them, a
ftarch is commonly manafadared by a fimple proccfs, for fa-
mily ufe. Some diftill a fiery and harih fpirit from potatoes ;
and at times, bread jelly ^ and a very bad cheefe^ are formed of
this valuable root, when combined with other fubftances of
nutrition. For nine months ^of the year, potatoes make a
great part of the food of the middling and lower ranks of peo*
. pie ; and it maybe faid, with truth, that, till the general intro-
du£Hon of potatoes into this country, fo little adapted, from foil
and clinuite, to the growth of other grain, the poor dnd low-
er clafles pinfcd away, nearly the half of their lime, in want
and hunger. It is now found, that, by keeping the potatoes
in a cool place during the fummer months, and checking die
vegetation by frequent turning and ftirring, they may be jpre-
ferved fweet and found, from one end of the year to the other ;
and thus, become a wholcfome and cheap diet to the poor,
and even, occalipnally, add to the viands of the opulent im
every ficafon.

Sheep and Black Cattle — ^The hills and muirs, which, fome
years ago, were covered with heath and coarfe herbage, are,
fince the introdudion of large flocks of fheep into the coun-i
try, gradually getting a richer fward and a greener hue, and
afford excellent paAure. Every where they abound, with
fprings and rivulets of pure and fi^ubrious water. Nume-
rous flocks of large and heavy flieep, now pafture almoft the
whple year, on th^fe mountains and wilds, where, formerly,

were

ofGknorcbay and Inifbail. 335^

^ere to be found, and onlj for the fummer monthsi a few
light iheep and goats, fmall hill horfes, as thej were called^
and fome hetds of black cattle* Then, it was believed,
that no domeftic animal could ftand the fevef ities of the win-
ter on the high and ilormj grounds : even the goats and
flieep were regularlj houfed and fed in pens, during the
rigour of the feafon. The confequence was often fatal.
^¥heIl the provender was confumed before the genial return
of %>ring, cattle of all kinds perilhed in numbers for want of
fuftenance *. There may be about 20,oco flieep in the pa-
rifli* A few of the Cheviot breed have been latelj intro-
duced into Glenorchaj ; and the Earl of Breadalbane, . ever
anxious to promote the intereft of his country, and the good
of the people, defigns, it is faid, to fend fome more of the
i^me kind, to the pariih, for trial. Black cattle have been;
for years paft, decreafing in number, but improving in ki^d*
Two bulls, reared in the parlfli, were lately fold, the one at
X9L the other at 20 L !?terling. Horfes, both for draught
i^nd faddle, are brought, occaiionally, at high prices, from th^
fouth of Scotland, and other places noted for the beft kinds of
Hoth.

Wood. — The higher parts of the parifli abounded once,
with forefts of the largeft and beft pines ; but thefe were cut
down, about 60 years ago, by a company of adventurers frofki
Ireland, with little benefit to themlelves, and lefs to the noble
proprietor of the country. There are ftill fome tradls of na«<
tural firs in Glenorchay : a good deal of oak, intermixed
with aih| birch, and aller. On the fides of Lochow, efpecially

U u a a£

* A worthy gentlemao, ftilT alive in this parlfli, wa^ prefent at the fale o^
510 hides of black cattle ^ of all ages ; which were the property of one lair J, an^
loft in one feaibn^'by mere wanC Thit wasuB the year 1744. The hides fold fo#
^oL to a Glafgow tanner^

'340| Stattjlkat Account

at Hajfieldy various kinds of wood ; the larchi tbe kectt}/
the horfe chefnut, the mountain afli, the lime and the plane^
are planted with tafle, and grow with luxuriance and heauty.
The climate is not favourable for orchards.

Exports and Imparts. — The exports from the country are
cattle* wool, woollen yarn, tartans, plaiding and ruflet. The
imports are, about icoo bolls of meal, merchant goods and
caih. Exclufive of what is retailed by hawkers, there is
fold, yearly, from one ftationary (hop in the pariih, to the value
of 60 1. Sterling, of fnuflf and tobacco. This is an expendi-
ture that merits reprehenfion. Let the men, however, conti-
nue to do in this as they choofe, but far be it from the fair
and refpedable females of this vale, to disfigure their features,
and to deftroj their powers of fong and fwret cadence, by a
habit fo repugnant to every thing engaging and cleanly in wo«
man. There is one licenfed diftillery in the parifh ; the effeft
of which is the deftrudion of great quantities of grain,
that, in place of being converted into wholefome bread, pro-
duces only a deleterious fpirit, ruinous to health, to induttry,
and to morals. If no fpirits were diftilled in the county, the*
meal imported would be a trifle. At an average, there is aft-
annual importation of 40 thoufand bolls into the Ihire*

Population and Longevity. — As no exsiA public regifters-
were kept, the ancient ftate of the population of the parifh
cannot be afcertained with preci&on } hut, it is the general
belief, that the population is not mat&iiaily different from
what it was about 40 years ago. Ttiis conjedure is confirm-
ed by the only inveiligation of the fa£t, that can now be made.
At prelent, (1792,'^ the total number is 161)9. The return
to Dr. Webfter in 1755 was 1654, the difference is therefore
only 15. Gf thefc there are of males, 78 j, of females, 886.

tfGUnorcbay and tni/baH. ^^f

ta this account, the inhabitants of Lorn, Furnace and Fanan»
are not included. Though the people, in general, attain'
to an advanced age, there are no late inftances of extra-
ordinary longevity in the pari(h. A circuoiflanee happen-
ed a few years ago, ^hich^ it is believed, occurs but feldoni
any where. At a baptifm in the parifli, there were prefent,
the child^ajatber and mother^ grandfather and grandmofber^
great-grandfather and great ^grandmother ; and the laft pair
are ftill fo vigorous and healthy, as to make it probable^
they may fee the fifth generation of their family. They are
all in the lower clafs of peafantry, contented with their lot^
and chearful in their temper.

Si/ea/es^^^ColdB and" rheumatic diforders are the moil pre-
valent difeafes in the pariih* Before inoculation was intro-
duced, the fmall pox, in iis vifitations, proved very fatal*
Then, the regimen was literally hot. At whatever feafon-
the infedion appeared, great fires were kept burning in the
rooms, or rather ftoves, where often a or 3 wretched ohildren'
lay gafping, under a weight of deaths, in one bed. Everj
particle of fre& air was exclttded with the utmoft care ; and
whilky and faffron, and every thing heating, were adminifter-
ed with an unfparing hand. The^ confequence was fuch as
might be expeSed. Numbers were hurried into an untimely
grave ; and of thofe that efcaped with life, the lofs of an eye,
fbmetitnes of both, with other ravages of the diforder, often
marked a treatment & lumatnial and fo deftruftive. Eigh-
teen years^ ago, a heft boy^ a native of this parifli, ran away
from a farm in another country, where the meaflco made their
appearance. He did not, > however, efcape the enemy he
dreaded. He came to the patifh fchool, and within the fifth
day I tho' runaway, with jX of the fchokrs, were laid up with

the

4^d I Statifiical Jccouni

ihe diftemper. It fpread over the country in a flioit tim^'}
bat contagious as it was, it was not mortal.

MottntamSf \Se *. — There are many hills of different eleva*
fions and forms in the parifli. Among thefe, Beindoran,
Beinlaoi, andCruachan, foar pre-i>eminentl7 high. The laft
rifes in a gentle flope from the fea, and the Lake of Aw ; and
Ijthe meafurementof thelate Colonel Watfon, withaquadrant,
its perpendicular height is faid to be 1 130 yards above the'
level of the fea. The circumference of the mountain, at the
bafe, is above ao meafured miles. Cruachan is the weather
gauge of the people within view of its loftjr fummit. Before
the ftorm, '* the fpirit of the mountain ihrieks,'* and its head
and fides are enveloped in clouds. On the fummit of this
mountain, was that fatal fpring, from which, according to the
tradition of our fathers, iiTued forth the beautiful and ezten--
five lake of Awt*

Beindoran/

* Elevation of tanouf Moonuuni abore the levcj of the Sea.

Feetl
HartfieldHUl, near Moffat, • • • %%%%'

Tintock, in Luiark(hire» - • «* • Z644

Beinmqre, in Breadalbane, from its bafe, - « 11064

^ Bcin Lawen, in Breadalbane, aboTe Lochtay, -' 35 8 S

Beu Dcvis, in Lochaber', - • * * 4^73

Benlomond, above the L.ake, ... ^%j^<i

Skiddaw, in Cumberland, - . • . . 4466

Snowdon, in Wal^ - - - - - 35^6 * ,

Mount.Blanc, in the Alp», - - - - X5»66ar

Mount -ffitna, ----- 10,954*

Chimborazzo, South Axtierxca, - - - ao,46«f

-Tcncrlffc, - - . . - . - X5»39^

Hecla in Iceland. - - - - - . 4i903

N. B. 17 60 yards make a mile.
% « Bcra the aged, dwelt in the caTC of the rock. She was the daughter of
•* Grian&an (he Sage : Long wa? the line of her fsthexHi and (he wa« the laft

qJ Gltnorchay and IniJbaiL 34^

Beindoran, till lately, was tbereiidence andfanftuarjr of the
roe buck and mouotaia deer ; but now, the hunter roams n9
longer on the hill of the chace ; the iheep browze on the
heath of the forefl, and the fons of the mountains have de«
ferted the inheritance of their race for ages, to reyiiit it^
fprings, and glades, and fecret haunts no more ! Formerlj', the
wolf had his haunts in our wilds and mountains, and not on-
ly proved fatal to the cattle, but, when impelled by hunger^
or inflamed with rage, he even, at times, made depredations
on the human fpecies. It is faid, that, in the year 1680, the
laft wolf in Britain was killed by Sir £wen Cameron of
Xiochiel. , ^

Lakes i Rivers and tijb. — The parifli extends nearly for S
^iles on each fide of Lochow. This lake is, in length, about
30 meafured miles, and at an average, about 3 quarters of 3
9iile in breadth. It is about 36 yards above the level of the
tea* Befide^ the intermediate river^ and hills^ which run in-^

<* of her race. Large and fertile were her pofifeffiont : her's the beautiful valet
** helow, and her's the cattle which roamed oa the hilh around. To Beta was
ff committed the charge of that awful fpring, which, by the appointment o£
*f Fate, was to prore fo fatal t^ the inheritance of her fathers, and tp her father'^
•* race.

^ Before the fun fhould withdraw his beams, (he w^s to cover the fpring
** with a done, on which facred and myilerious charaders were imprefled. One*
<^ night this was forgot by the unhappy Bera. Overcome with the heat and
« chace of the day, fhe was fcized with flecp ^cfbre the ufuai time of reft. The
<* confined waters of the moimtaiDs burfi; foith into the plain below, and cover-
*' ed that large expanfe, now known by the name of the Lake pfA-w, The thir4
*^ morning Bera awaked from her fleep. She went to remove the done from the
<* fpring ; but, behold, no ftone was there ! She looked to the inheritance of
*\ her tribe : She ihrieked \ The mountain ihook from its bafe ! Her fpirit re«
«f tired to the ghofts of her fathers, in their light and airy halls." Ossiak.

Of this ill fated female, Mr. Stewart of Strachur, has given a very ingenious
jccount in the ftatiftical Hiftory of his parilh. Sec Vol. 4. P. J59'

^44 Started AccmtA

to Lochow, it receives « confiderable bodj of wftter at eaA
extremitjTy and diCcharges itfelf lateraliyy into an arm of the
fea at Runaw, after a turbulent feries of cataracts for 3 aiiles.
After a winding courfe of 14 miles, the river Urchay falls io«
to LochoWy at the eaft end, about a mile below the parilh
jchurch. The lake and river abound with falmon, char, trout
«nd eels. The laft is the abhorence of almoft all the coio-
mon people in the highlands, who confider them as water fer-
pents, and unfit for the ufe of man. Four miles below the
-church, at a place called Catni(h, ihoals of falmon are takea
in the Urchay, by a fimple fai^t fatal device. A bold proje£t»
Ing rock croiTes the bed of the river, nearly from fide to fide*
Its height is fuch, that few fi(h can overleap the torrent ^
which, after rains, raflies forcibly into the pool below. Many
lalmon, in attempting to leap, fall into a ertel^ or baiket, fixed
tranbverfely within the ftream. But ^the great ^ughtet is
«ffe£ted in a more fraudulent manner. On the one fide kJL
the river there is an open, of the widenefs of a mill-race, bc«
twixt the rock and the bank. Here a wicker gate is fixed*
that can be opened and (hut at pleafure. Many yards above
this entry, the dream is fecured by a like barrier. When
the water is high and turbid, the fiih are let in below, and
when the fiiherman is fatisfied with the numbers that have
pafled into his toils, he ihuts the door pf bis prifon ; and,
like a mercilefs executioner, he drags his prey with his fpear^
one after another on ibore. Scores, at times, are thus de*
ilroyed in the courfe of a few hours. There are ieveral other
lakes and rivers, of leiTer note, in the pariih : all of theqiL
abounding with fine trout.

Raais and Bridges.^-^ln no county has more been done, dur-
ing the laft 20 years, in conftruding bridges, and forming
nfeful lines of road, than in the ihire of Argyll withiil that

period^

i^ Glenorcbdy and Intfbaih 345

|>efibd, beiides what has been etfefted by the ftatute laboar,
itnd bj a jearty affefsifient of above 600 1. Sterling on the va-
lued rents,' many ezpen£ive bridges and various lines of ioadS|
have been completed by large fubCbriptions. Glenorchay is
every where well accomodated with go<ki roads and conveni-
ent bridges. The great military road from Stirling to Tayo«
flrom and InV^rary, pafles through the pairilh, from one extre«
mity almoft to the other : as does aHo, for many miles, the
military road; from Tayndrom to Fort- William. In the ori-
ginal formation of thefe road^, th^ obvious and proper line
has not dways been felecled. The traveller often feels, to
his coft, that f£f road was brought to the grave/, aHdnot the
gravel to the rdad. A more Enlightened and liberal fyflem
of road^making is now adopted ; and, it is hoped, that the
line will be altered from its prefent incommodious acclivitie$
and defcents^ wherever a more eafy and level road can be
formed. From the 4nn of Dalmaly, to the bridge of Aw, a
very judicious alteration iii the line of public road has been
lately madej at the expence df above 400 1. Sterliiig. This
beautiful line winds, for milei^, through woods and dells, pre*
fenting fuch varied and agreeable views of water, of iflands, of
towering mountain^, and doping hills, as give an unccimmoa
grandeur atid ftiblimity to the landfcape. Part df the road
lies through a narrow defile, '* amidfl fuch irregularities^
^* nature, fuch deep chafms, and fuch' impending rocks, as
*^ indicate fome vaft convulfions of the earth, to have happen-*
'* ed at fome retuote period of time *;"

Vol. VIII. . X 1 CaJUs

* About a quarter of a mile bdo'«^ the month of the river Aw, in view of the
itmdy and clofc by the vrater edge, it feeo t huge fiooe, which, to a traveller of
a humaoe and feriout caft of mind» will afford nfatter of pleafing contemplation.
A few yean ago, in a cottage at the bottpm of a fteep hill, whofe furamit ii one
range of projedUng rocks, a near and cralhing noife was heard, refembling a dap
of thunder. The cottager, fttm a window, b<beld the face of the hill covered

with

346 Stdti/Hcal Account

Cqfiles and Monqfterf^-^ht the eaft end of Lodiow, on i
Toc^j point, projecting into the lake, are to be feea the fine
ruins of Cqftle Kikbum. The fquare tower, ftill of a caftellat-*
ed form, was built in 1440, bj Sir Colin Campbell * Knight
of Rhodes, and anceftor of the Breadalbane family. Succefiive
additions were made to Cattle Kilchum, and part of it was
garrifoncd by the king's forces, in the year 1745, to fecure the
peace and tranquillity of the country. But now, this great
mafs of building is tumbling to the ground ; prefenting a
monument of the mutability of earthly grandeur, and of the
unavoidable decay of the moft durable works of human art.

On a fmall ifland, not far from Cattle Kilchurn» called
Fracch^Elan $, there are the ruins of a cattle. In the year

1267,

Vith detached mafTes of rock, bounding with Telocity, and flew towards hit
Sender and ill confiruded habitation. Hit wife had juft gone out, and he
beard her cries. A child ftood at his knee, and another was afleep in a bed
heiide him. He fprung inftantaneonily to the door, with a child, as he thought,
in each hand. Scarce had he croflbd the threihold, when an enormous ftone
pafled through his houfe, in the very place where he and his children were a
moment before. He miffed a child, and no ioliger heard the voice of his wife.
He looked to the ruins of his hut ; found his child alire and unhurt, in a comer
where it had been thruft by the fragments of the bed and furniture, difpiaced
by the rock in its coorfe. In a little, the mother came to the fcene. Their joy
^nd gratitude were complete.

* Sir Colin was the fecond fon of Argyll. His father gave him Glenorchay,
with other valuable appendages for his patrimony. He was a man of high re-
nown for his military prowefs, and for the virtues of fecial and domefUc life.
He was ** a ftream of many tides againft the foes of his people; but, like the
■* gale that moves the heath, to thofe who fought tiis aid.*' His firfl kdy was a
daughter of the £arl of Angus. Her marriage dower wa« 600 merks, little more
than 30 L Stealing. As her father was dead, two noblemen, relations of the
Angus family, granted a conjund bond for the payment of the tocber. Sir Colin
afterwards married one of the co-hcircffcs of Stewart, Lord Lorn, by which he
acquired a grcAt acceflion to his fortune,

$ Fraoch-Elkn was the HeJ^crtda of this country. «* The fair Mego longed for
«« the delicious fruit of the ifle, guarded by a dreadful ferpcnt : Fraoch, who had

« long

^ Gknorcbay and Inljbail. 347^

Z 26 7, this little demefnei with its fortrefs, and fome conti«
guo\i3 lands^ were granted by King Alexander III. to Gilbert
M^Naughtan, the chief of that clanV on oondition that he
fhould entertain the king whenever he paffed that way. The
fatal attempt of Fraoch is handed down, from age to age, in
a beautiful Celtic tale, after the manner of Offian the fon of
Fingal — A tranflation of it, by the Rev. Dr. Smith of Gamp-
belton, when a boy at college, is much and juftly admired.
There is another old ruinous cafile at Auchallader, in the up-
per part of the parith,— a bunting feat of the Breadalbane
family, in the days of the chace \ but, principally intended
to refirain the incurfiotis of fuch marauders^ as might attempt^
in thofe predatory times, to pillage and defpoil the country.
Near it, on the flope of a hill, a fatal conflift took place,
about two centuries ago, betwixt two hoftile clans. Vari-
ous caufes are aiBgned for this encounter. Several cairns,
fiill viiible on the heath| m^k the ^lace lyhere the flain were
interred.

In the iQand of Iniihail, the remains of a fmalt monaftery,
with its chapel, are ftill to be feen. Concerning this religious
houfe, there is little on record, and tradition conveys but
fmall information. It was a houfe of Nuns, memorable for
the fandity of their lives, and the purity of their manners.
At the reformation, when the innocent were involved equal-
ly with the guilty, in the fufferings of the thnes, this houfe
was fupprefled, and the temporalities granted to Hay, the
Abbot of InchaflPrey j who, abjuring his former tenets of re-

X X 2 ligion,

** long loved the maid, goes to gather the fniit. By the rufUing of the leaves,
* the ferpent was awaked from hit fleep. It attacked the hero, who periihed in
^ the conflia. The mo&fter wa« alfo defiiojed : Mcgo did not long funrin
« the death of her Uver •."

^48 Statiflkal Account

ligion, embraced the caufe of the reformers* King James VL
ere6ted Inchafirey, ioto a temporal lordihip, in bis fayour.

Clan M'Grigor^JLn Glenorphajt the chieftain of the claif
M'Grigor, a numerous and potent tribe, bad long hv^ princir
pal reiidence, and a freehold property. On an eminence, op-
pofite to the parifli church, fiill caUed the GnUow HiU^ were
executed all criminals, doomed to death in his courts of juftice*
The procefs was often fummarj, and the execution fpeedy.
The fun, in its courfe of one day, beheld the culprit at large^
apprehended, arraigned, adjudged, condemned, and brought
to <sxecutipp. In other criminal courts of thofe times, fuch
procedure, was not uncomoion. A fing)e aft of M^Grigor's
juftice, however, is on traditional recolrd* One of his retain-
ers, who had intentionally put out the eye of a ftranger^
who had but one, was .condemned to lofe both his own, in re«»
taliation for the malice* For the enormities of fome indivi^
duals, during the minority of James VL the whole dan
were profcribed by aft of parliament, as *^ LavaUfs Limmirs?^
The firname was, for ever fuppreffed ; and, at baptifm, no
clergyman was to give the name of Crigw^ under the penalty
of banifiiment and deprivation. Happily thofe manners and
times are no more ! In our days, the innocent are not indif*
criminately involved in the infamy and punifliment of the
guilty. An aft fo fcvere is repealed by a more enlightened
legiflature ; and the clan M'Gaiooa, in pofieifion of their
name, and of every franchize of citizens, are as civilized, as
peaceable, and as much diftinguiihed for every virtue, as any^
of their fellow fubjefts in the kingdom.

iJ^nf ..^The rents of the parilh have doubled, and» in fomc
properties, have tripled within thefe 40 years \ and yet, the
fituation of the tackfmen is, in generaly much better than at

that

%f Gknorcbay and Ini/baiL 549

^hat period* This, pardcidarlj, is the care, with fuch as have
phtained large pafture tenemeots oa long leafesf A leafe for
19 or 20 years, is coofidered as the ihorteft, on which z
tenant can venture, fectM^ly, to snake any e^penfive efficient
improvenaents upon his pofleffioa. In fome places, it has
been the impolitic praftice of landlords, to let their grounds
on ihort leafes : a fyftem, which, as it is difcouraging and
ruinous to the leafee, muft eventually be injurious to the lea^r
fer.— -Such i^ not (he pafe in G^enorchay. The nobl^ pro*
prietor, as has uniformly been the laudable praftice of the
family, gives every realbnable encouragement to the tetfant.
He impofes no racked rents ; he exafis no Dervipes ; he grants
no Ihort leafes \ and, whilft he himfelf has adequate returns
from his domains, he has the £itisfaAic^n to hear and fee that
bis people profper-»-And furely, to every man of feeling, and
real virtue, to contribute to the happineis of thoufasds, wbp
jeam and eat their bread under him* as the children of his &*
mily, and who, ungrudgingly beftow a great part of the fruit
of their labours, in 'return for his proteftion and bounty, muft,
living and dyings afford a pleafure and peace of mind, un-
known to the mercilefs and rapacious opprefibr; — to him,
whofe exadions come ftained with the fweat, and tears, and
blood of thofe, who, by nature, are his brethren, and who,
from fituation, have more than a common claim to his hu«
jnanity and prote&ion.

The real rent of the united pariih, may be from 3,000 L to
^,000 1. Sterling.

Wages. — ^In all the operations of hulbandry. and In every
mechanic and domeftic employment, the prices of labour have
become, progrelBvely, quadruple what they were 50 years
ago. A man fervant, fed in the family, earns annually, from
I L to 9 1,— A female, from 1 to 3 guineas. Still, the recom-
^ penfe,

35^ Statlfikal Jiceount

penfe, to this lad clafs of fervants, is more inadequate totheii'
{brvices than wliat is exaded bj the former. Often, efpecial-
ly daring winter, whilft the men pais away the long evenings
at their eafe, and without fiarthering the intereft of their em*
plojerSy the bofy and coofcientions houfe-maid is unremit-
tingly engaged, in fome necefiary employment in the family.
Let not their earnings then, advanced as they are, be grudged ;
bot let all, who refpeft the female charader, and female uti-
lity, regret, that thefe earnings are often thrown away on
the gewgaws of vanity and fafliion. Every man of humanity
IS pleafed to fee them clad in decent and fuitable apparel ;
but it is painful to obferve, that, what (hould be a fupport to
Aeir future families, and a provifion for iicknefs and old age,
is mifapplied in the purchafe of filks, laces; lawns and tinfel !
But • the moralift may fpeculate on this female infirmity as he
chnfes ; as far as the laCs has ca(h or credit, to procure bravfT^
ihe will, ftep by ftep, fbllow hard aftei: what flic deems ||ran4
Slid fine ia her betters ^«

IfM.^^Thcre is an excellent inn in the pariih, at Dalmaly^
No where in the highlands has more attention been paid ta
the accommodation of the traveller, than on the property of
Lord Breadalbane. In a line of public road, of above 90
sitles in length, extending from Inveraray to Perth, good inns,
with fuitable offices, are built, at proper ftages, and kept in
repair, at confiderable expence, by his lordfhip f • Care alfo
is taken to find inn-keepers qualified for their charge, and of
civil and obliging deportment to their employers. — And to
enable them to provide feafonably for their guefis, farms, on
cafy terms, are annexed to the different ftages.

Mineral^

* The prices of Tiands, sn^ wages of Artificer! here, are the £ane as thoU
already publiflied in the ftatiftical accounts of the conQty.
t Via. at Pabnaly, TayadroD, Soilio^ Kcomorc and Amiliee.

of Gienorcbay and Inifbail. ^^ i

r MufBrals and Indigenous Plants^ — ^On the confines of the parilh
u lead mine had been wrought for manj jears, by means of a
level. The 6th of the produft, in bars of lead,, from the
fmelting mill, was the proportion allowed to the proprietor
bj the mining companj. It has not been wrought for two
years back. In feveral hills of this pariih, there are appear*
ances of lead ore. Cobalt, talc, albeftos, and a beautiful jas-
per, have been founfl in fmall mafles, among our rocks and
mountains. By an aft of the Scoth parliament, in the year
14 24, the mine was declared royal| and to belong to Che
king, when 3 halfpennies of filver could be fined from the
pound of lead. Liipeflone of good, quality, is quarried ia va-
rious parts of the pari(h. Many indigenous herbs, which,
cofnbined with whifky, formed of old, a great part of the
Highlander's materia medico^ are now gone much into difufe ;
Valerian, Tufiilago, Althea, AlUheal, Liver^wort, Plantaiiiy
Eye-bright, and wild carrot arc found in abundance*

Well of St. Co/v»ffi!i»— There are no mineral fprings in the
parilh. A quarter of a mile eaftward from the inn of Dalmaly,
and near the parifh fchool, is the well of St. Gonnan; memo-
rable for the ^ightnefs and falubrity of its water. St. Connaa
was the tutelar faint of the country. He lived, it is iaid^
near the well, and he blcfied the fpring. On a little eminence
hard by, in a humble cot, there dwelt, about 20 years ago, a
poor old man, principally fupported by the well of St. Connan«
The whole day he fat, generally at the door of his cot, ready
to give the paiTengers a drink from his favourite fpring, foe
which he received feme fmall confideration. It is incredible
what quantities he himfelf daily drank, for the fpace of 44
years, that he lived near the well. He never had a complaint :
he arrived at the age of 85 or 86 years, in the exerclfe of

all

352 Statifikat Account

fSL his mental faculties. The erening hefeie he died, he wai
jeen drinking at the well, as nfoal; hot, dioogh his praftice
lu(d preTented diieafe, it could not lave him from the hand of
death. He retiiad to his cell, and in the mondng was found
dead in his hed* A few fliillings, fuflEkdent to defray the ex*
pence oC interment^ were got, in an old lag befide him. He
czafled a promife of the minifter of the parilh, that no man^
after him, Ihoold occupy the hut. Ahout diis, he difcover-^
cd an anxietj, not be accomited for. llie daj he was buried^
the hut was demdlifhed. It would not, indeed, have been eafy to
have found a new occupant, for the whole infide of this foliur/
habitation was lined with the fragments of coffins, brought
from thechurch-jard, year after year, as repairs were needed*

C&yrri.^— The church of Glenorchay, outwardly, appears a
decent buildbg. Within,* though far from elegant, it is nei-
ther uncomfortable nor incommodious. Its fituation is com-
manding, and centrical for the pedple. It is to be regretted,
Ifaat places approfHriated to the public worlhip of God, ihoold
not be rendered fuitaUe to a fervice fo facred and fo impor-
tant. The magnificent temples of the heathen world indicat-
ed a becoming reverence for the objeds of their worihip.
The church of Rome, the church of England, and the fevesi
feparatifts from our own eftabliihment, are careful to have
foch places, as are confecrated to the fervice of the Uoiverfal
Parent, made decent and comfortable : whilft, with us of thei
chuich of Scodandi many of our country kirks, are fuch dark»
^ damp, and dirty hovels, as chill and reprefs every fentiment
of devotion. They, beiides, endanger the health of every clafa
of worlhippers, .and encourage the indifferent and the indolent,
in their negleft of inditutions, with the ftated obfervance of
which, moral obligation itfelf, and the public and private hap-
pinefsofman, are fo much and fo immediately conne&ed.r
6 To

&enorcbay and ImJhalK ^SA

.To the honour, however, of all claflear of people in this coua-
try, it may be faid, with jafticey that no where are the ordl»
nances of religion more refp^ded or better attended. . Perfuns
of t}ie moft cultiyated underftanding, and oi the firft rank, in
fociety, are not aihamed to join in the public offices of devo«
^ion# Here, cold and cruel infidelity has not yet reared h^
baneful bannen Here, '* the rich and the poor meet toge*
** thcr" in the houfe of God« Public worflup is alternately
performed at die churches of Glenorchay and Inifliail,.(or
Innirdryx>ich,) 5 meafuied mile« from each other. For the
benefit of the people, in the conjoined extremities of the pa*
•riflies of Glenorchay and Killin, the late Lady GlenorciIat, in
concurrence, and with the aid of the Earl of Breadaibane^
eftablifhed a perpetual miffion, with fuitable appointments to
the incumbent* This was a humane and neceffary^kiftitution,
and will remain a lafting inonnmeot of the piety and benefit
.cence of the noble foundreis, when the millions fquaiidered in
diflipation are gone, without leaving one confoling thought to
4heir former poflelTor, or entaiUqg honour on his name, as the
4)enefa&orjiqd/riend qf man. By ad oi jMuiiament, the tw^
farms of Ichracban and Phanans are annexed, ^oadjacrft^ to
ithe parifli of Muckairn, as '^ nuUft ewart thereto." And for
the fame reafons, the three farm$ of Leatters, Corries and
Driihaig, are disjoined from Ardchattan, and annexed quoad
Jacra^ to Glenorchay. In the records of the fynod of Aigyll^
^here is an abftraA of this z& of defignation and annexation^

Stipend^ Patron and Heritors.^^The living is 67 bolls of
;aieal, and 43I. 6s. 8d. Sterling in money, excluiive of a manfct
^nd two glebes, containing from 16 to 20 acres, moftly arable.
The minifter enjoys the privilege of pafturing 8 cows, the
whole year, if he choofes, on 4 contiguous farms. To this
jiiay be added, the convenience and advantages which thf
\ yftL.'VlIJ. Yy mipiflw:

5^4 StaH/Hed Aeewnt

niimfter enjoT^, from the pofleffion •{ % faiiU adjteetit bni,

which the finnilj of Breadalbtne have condmicd on «dy

tertttf, for time immemorialy to the faeceffiye incumbents of

the parifli. Without fome foch tenement for foppljing the

necefiaries of life, the fitnation of the minifter of an inland

' highland parilhi fiar from markets, and with a numerous fat

milj, would often be veiydiflrefflng. - It isbntjuflice tofaj,

that it has been the general praAice of both the noble fami<»

lies of Arotix and BaEADALBAMfi, in almoft sdl the parities

oonneded with them, to do everj thing kind and reafonable

lor the comfortable accommodation of their miniflers. Thi^

tef^lmonj oS. acknowledgment, the prefent inpumboit of

Gl^orchaj and Ini&ail owes alfo to his other heritors, who

are 5 in number, vir. Gampbell of ^ochnell, Campbell of

Monzie, M^Dougall of HajfieM, Campbell of Gombie, and

Lindfay of Boccaird. The Duke of ArgjU is patron.---In no

jmrt of the kingdom has patronage been exerciftd with more

tnarked attention to the heritors and people of a pari(h, than

Jn this countty. Violent fettlements are not known in our

t>ounds. The rights of patronage and of law are therefore

r^fpefibed bj the people f •

Schools:^

f The following lingular fa^ is the only inftance to the contrarf. >Vt
the reToltttioD, when prelbytery was laft re-eftabli|hed in North Biiuiii, a Mr.
pagald Ltndiay was the Epifcopal miaifter of Glenorchay. Mr. Liodfajr
WoiaU not conform. PrelCBd \ij the fynod af Argyll, the aoble proprietor of
the country reluctantly wrote a letter of invitation to a prefbytcrian proba-
tioner, in the (hire of Perth, to be minifter of Glenorchay. He accepted; came
on the dofe of a week to the parilh, but could find no houfe to receive him, or
perfon to make him welcome. In his diftrefs, he was drove to the houfe of the maa
whom he came to fnpplant, and was received with a cordiality and kindneii,
Rooming a minifter of the gofpel. Over the whole pa^ifli, there was a ftroi^
ferment. People of all ages and condiuons aflembled^ from all quarters, in the
chiirch-yard, on Sabbsuh, long before the ufual hour of worihip. At the ap-
pesfranc^ of the ftnmger, accompviicd by their own paftor» there was a general ^

inutm^

tfGknordbay and tnifbaiU %^^

SdfOob^^^JThe fdiooi of Clenorefaacy has kog hetfk in great
tepotef and is w«U mttended. Befides the aitives^ xnaa/
cfaildim, both from Che £aft and Weft Indies, h4ve been, tcom
time to time, fisnt for their elementary edncation to this fe<*
minarj ; where, freed £rom that oontagion of rice and bad
example, which too often corrupts the morals of the yottth
in towns, tihey form early habits of virtue, and acquire a har«^
. dinels and vigour of conftitntion, kfs common at their years^
in .warmer dimates. Many of thofe, who, in the early period
of life, ha^e been brought up at this fchool, have becomtf
diftingttiflied as ufeful profiii&Qiial men, in the various ficua«
tions of fociety* The falary of the ma&er is 15 L paid by
Lord Bf^adidhaoe $ whieh^ with other fixed and contingent
emoLuments, makes the total inoomci at an average, to be bet-
ter than 40] « a year. During winter, the fcholars amount
to zoo, and then an affiftant is employed : and even in the
dimmer months, when many of the poorer children are obli*
ged to leave fchool wA go to Cervices the number attending
is feldom under 6o«

The office of a fchoolmafter is an ufefol and laborious em««
ployment. It is a pity, that the encoumgement to this claijp
of men, fliould in general, be to inadequate to theic ntxlity^

Y y a and

ftiormur of iodigmtion' Twelve armed meo^ wifcti drawn twr)f6$^ ftoroiixided
&e aftentAed intnider. Two bagpipes founded «6# Martb cf Deaths Unmovf
«d by the tears aad reraonftranees cf -Mr. JLiadfityt m tbis boftUe and awfitl
Corm, tbey proceeded, witb their prifoner, to tbe boaodaryof the pariih,and of th^
county. There, on his bended knees, he folemnly engaged never more to enter
Ihe pariih, or trouble any perfon for the occurrences of that day. He was aW
towed to depart in peace, and he kept his promift. The Synod of Argyll were
Sauch incenfed^ Time cooled their ardour. The proprietor was indulgent, Mr.
Lindfay deferring, and the people loved him. He continued in the undifturbej
^effloa «f hit charge tiU hit death, siort than %o years alter the fcrcfrid

35^ Siat^ical Acfunt

and to their kboors. In moft pariflies, though it is byn^^
means the cafe in this, the winnings of a common fervanf
greatly exceed the income of men, whofe employments ex««'
pofe them to much wafteof health andfpirits; to much hunger
and cold, and to much cenfiire ; men too, many of them poflefled
of learning and cultivated minds/ and by means of whom, the
firft principles of morals and of fcience are communicated to
millions. Dr. Samuel Johnson, Dr. Beattis of Aberdeen^
and the learned Mr Walter Rudbiman, with many others
of the moft diftinguiflied charaders^ in the liberal pnrfei&ons»
once earned their poor pittance of fupport, in fuch employ--
• ments \

^ There is a fchool for teaching girb fewing, &c. eftaUiihei
alfo in the country, by the hooourable Society for Propagating
Chriftian Knowledge, with a competent falary : and there b
another fmall fchool in the partih of Iniihail, very poorly en«
dowed, though the affefltnent on the valued rent, to form a fa*
lary, is more than common in fuch cafes. Although we are
a peaceful people, fencing matters come oocafionally to the
bounds, to inftrud us in the art of defence : and matters of
manners alfo do us the favour, from time to time,, to teack
us ** the graces — ^the graces |."

Poor.— -The poor in this united charge are ' numerous ;
amounting at times, to 60: and many of them, the aged, the
fatheriefs, the widow, and the bed-ridden. Belides occaiionaL
fqpplies, there is a ftated fummer and winter diftribution, te
the amount of 24 1. or 26 1. a year. This fum arifes from
ifio 1. of mortified money ; from the colledions at church,
and from fmall fines impofed for immoralities in the parifii*

Hitherto

* In 1500, the learned Hictok BoETHitrs, the firft principal of KiDgy.
coUrge Aberdeen, had but 40 mcrks iakrj, about al. 41. 5^. Sterling
\ Cfacucxficld'sliCttcrs.

of Ghnorcbay and IniJhaiL ^^f;

B^therto, no affeffineiits^ (roch as the law authorifes in urgent
^afes^) have been ezaded. Snch of the poor as can, and
ehoofcy are allowed to beg, without reftriftion. And, in-
deedi whiift, the indigent are fo many, and the funds to fup.
port thena fo difproportionate to their wants, it would ber
cruel and oppreffive to cohtroul them; It is but jufiice to
. the hunianity of the people of the pari(h to* declare, 'that they
n^er rcftjfe to extend their charity to the needy mendicant^
whether a ftranger or a native. About 20 years ago, a ilranger^
with his family, came to refide in the parifli. By accident, his
houfe and his all were deftroyed by fire. A colledion was made
for them at the church doors, which amounted to 21 1. and 3
pence flerling^ No heritors were refident at' the time. On
this occafion, even the cottage widow, cheerfully, " threw he»
•• two mites, into the treafuFy of the temple *." <

Fuel. — ^The fuel, principally ufed in the parfOi^ is peat;
The prefentpartial and impolitic duty on coals, together with the

expence

* k is a jvft remark, that*' th& proper regulation of the poor, as it is one of
"* the moft important, fo it is alfn one sf th^ mod difficult circumfianccs of po«
** lice : that a fcanty fupply, or a rigid execution of the penal flatutcs againft
^ mendicants, compels many miferable creatures to fuffer all the wrctchednefs
** of porerty ; while a liberal provifion, indifcriminately beftowed, encourages
« idlenefs, and ultimately- terminates in profligacy, and vice ^«" . From a.peru^
§»X of the Scotch ads of parliament relating to the poor, it appears, that no
pauper has a legal claim to be maintained by any parilh, unlefs he was born
there, or had his rcfideoce in it for the tafi 3 jearty previous to his application.
In the year 1781, one Waddle, a day-labourer,, came to the parifh- of Hutton»
having in his family a fon upwards of 20 years •f age, who had been paralytic
from his birth. He applied to have this fon put on the poor's roll, but was re-
fttfed. No legal methods being taken to remove Waddle out of the pariih, he
«ominued in it tor tbr^ ytmn after \ then applied to the (henif, to have his fon
inrplled for a weekly fupply from the patifii funds. This the (hcnif ordered^
and the Court of Seflion affir^itd Mk fentencu ||.

\ Dr. JMacfarian'i /nffuirict ^wcerniiigUn £oer, || A<as of ntdcrunU

fjfS Statifikat MctmHt

•zpence of hmd and water carriage, pal it oOt of tbc pow^hr dt
the manj to enjoy the comfort of coal fires, even in the worff
9t feafons. And the fufferioga of the lower claffes, wkh re«
Iped to firing, in wet years, daring the rigour of winter, eaa
dnly be conceived by fuch as have felt them. A feW years ago^
soany poor people ia the Weft Highlands were obliged to b«ni
nooft of their honfehold furoitare, to repel the cold and to
prepare their food* Old people and yoang cbildreay oaable
to bear the cold, were mofily confined ta bed*

Migratory Birds.^-OMt migratory birds are the eoduaw^
Ae lapwing, the fwallow, and the woodcock. In fevere win^
ters, t)ie fwan vlfits our lakes for a few weeks ; and, though
% V92LXJ and watchful bird, it is not uncommon to fee it fidl »
prey to the arts of the fportfman. The Bohemian chatterer, •
bird of a moft beautiful plumage and llriking conforaiationg
was taken, laft feafon, in this country.

Eagles. — Premiums are given in this, and in many other
pariihes, for the extirpation of the mountain eagle. Yet
ftill, this bird of prey, fodeftruftive to kids, lambs, and game,
is common in our wilds ^d deferts. The eagle has either
loft much of its former audacity and ftrength, or the many
traditions refpe&ing itsaflaults on the young and defencekfs,
even of the human kind, are fabulous and unfounded *.— '— »

This

* There it a traditon cnrrent lO the Ifle of Mao, that a lire infaat, fmmd ilk
tf « aerie of an eagle, was brought to the proprietor of the ifland ; who, having no
children of hit own, adopted thit fortunate fouodlmg, and bequeathed him hil
pofiellioni. The £mie authority aflert?, that thit child was the anceftor of the
Statiley family. In the genealogical hiftory of that noble houfe, there is n*
allttiion to thit egendary pedigree, although the impreflion of aa eagle and tblld^
M ibe eiin rftbe Jfie »/ Mm^ it prc^abl^ owing to fomc fttch circumfiance.

9f Gienorcbay and MJbail. ^S9

This bird is remarkaUe for it$ longevity* Mr. Kejfler
relates, that an eagle died at Vienna, after a confinement of
'X04 years.

CiaraBer of the P^o^/p—- The inhabitants of this parilli
have, from time immemorial, been marked, for peculiar re«
golaritj of condufi, and decency of manners. They are, in ge«
neral, fober, induftrious and humane ; courteous, peaceable,
and contented— *-They are all of the eftabliOied church, and
attend the public inftitutions of religion, with becom-*
ing attention and decorum. |{ere are no religious coritrover-
(ies to agitate the human mind; to hurt the belt feelings ot
the heart, and t» render men fierce, injurious, and uncharita-
ble to one another. Enormous crimes are unknown in this
place *. Law fuits occur but feldom. The Little differences, that
arife occafionally among neighbours, are fetUed either by the

good

* The Lowland people^ who have long believed, that everr Highlander Ufed hy
blunder and rapine, will hardly credit, that there is perhaps lefs thievery and
picking in the Highlands, than in any part of the King's dominions. In feadal
times, and before the operation of law in the remote parts of the kingdom, there
was a general fyftcm of depredation, too prevalent in many Highland countries.
But, as this was, often, only a retaliation for fimilar injuries, and patronifed by
the heads of clans at variance with one another, it fnbjeded tYieJpnUr, neither
to punifliment nor difgnice. Impelled by hunger, the fiarving Highlander was
indeed tempted, at times, to purloin fubfiftence from the folds of the wealthy :
but, on all occaHons, he avoided the cattle of the poor, with a icrupulous and
humane attention.

Mac-Ian, ati^ Kknniot, after the defeat of the unfortunate CUfUi Stuart^
at CuUoden, watched over Kim, with inviolable fidelity for weeks, and even
robbed, at the rifque of his life, for his fupport,at the very time that he himfelf
find his family were in a (late of ibrvation, and that he knew he could gain
30,000 1. by betraying his gueft. ' This poor man was afterwards executed at
Invemeb for ftealing a cow. A little before his execution, he took off his bonnet^
and thanked God, *' that he had never betrayed tnift, never injured the poor,
H 404 ncv^ rffuic4 ^ ^h|f c ^ what hfi had to the ftnpger and needy." It it

Stailfiical Account

jgood ^fficofi'Of a juftice of the peace, who refides. in <he-pariB|t
jor bj Lord Brcadalbane's Chamberlain, or Steward, when 1^
comes to the country : and the fmall fine's that are, at time^,
impofed for mifdemeanours, are generally paid to the l^irk.-
treafurer .for bel^oof- of the poor of the parU}i«.

The fuperior clafs of tackfmen live in commodious and decent
lioufes, in the enjoyment of the comforts of life, with order,
neatnefs, and hofpltalitj : and. even the middling and lower
xanksof the peafaatry live in a ftyle of j)leDty and cl^anlinefs,
very different from that of^their p^edec^fTyrs. Formerly, in-
deed, much of that time, which js now fpent in ufeful io-
'duilry, or in acquiring mental improvement^ waspafled in ia-
dolence, in the favourite chace, or in Uliening to the captivat-
ing ** tales of other timas."

A ilrift attention to credit, and a marked punj^uality i^i
,di(charging every money engagement, has long chara£lerifed.

laid, KiDg George TI. was much moved^ when he heard of the fate of Mac-Taii|
^(1 declared, that if he had known the circumilances in proper time, he would
have put him in a Htuation, in which he would not have been tempted to (leal
9L cow for Xubfiileoce. The Chevalier had ordered him a little money, but Ma^^
Ian never received it — At Inveraray, there has not been a dngle criminal cxeci^
ted thefe 4a years !

At a period not very remote, an awful retribution guickly followed an ad o£
lingular intemperance in this parifli. A military party marching through the
country in a hot fummer day, fome of the men brx>ke into ^JhealUn^^ and ufed
an unwife freedom with a chum-full of cream they found in the hut. One
snan, tempted with the richncfs of the feaft, would neither be perfuaded to mo-
deration, nor to retire with his fellow depredators. Afraid, however, of bein|^
jepoctcd to his fupcrier, he ran hard to overtake his party. Humanity throws
A veil over the ihocking fate o( thi.« unfortunate fpoiler. He was buried near
the road, and his grave inculcates a leflbn of honefty, chaftened gratification and
fnoderation, on all who behold it^ and know the gccaiion. He was nt% a Hi^li^
lander.

— -1

bf (Mciiorciay and in^^ ^^f

efeh thi pooreft villager of the countrjr. The limpie promifo
of the poor to pay, without any other obligation) will, geae-
hdly, procure from tho^ w1|o l^i^c^ tb^Oci, the l6an of moa
ftiejr in their ftraits, i^d family neceflaries from thefliop-keepter^
Snch is the ftate of this linited parilh; and fuch the general
charader of die pbople iii it M:^ ilo ftitttf^ Stattftical writer^
in his acounts of either, h^Te ever canfe to give i worfe tftt
^reiintatioa of thtm !.

Voft^VlIL B4 >n7MB£R

9^ t Statifiical Acc<ount ,

NUMBER SIX.

Parish of criech.

^County of Sutherland.^^TrjtJbytity of tiomoch.'^ynoi of
Suth$rland and Caitbnefs.)

By tie Rev. Mr. OeoagIe Raiht*

tfamif Situatton and ExUnU

THE etymology of Criech is not perfeftly known; it
may flgnify the houndiHg parilh, as it is the boundary
betwixt Sutherland and Rofs for a great way. It may alfo
fignify the parijb of woods or tri^s» There is ftill a great
deal of wood in it ; but there . was formerly much more ;
and fome of the woodsi being feen from the low country^
may have given the Aame to the parifli^— -ThiSy however, is
but conjefture.

The parilh is of Very great extent. It is, perhaps, one of
the largeft in Stotland, running from £. to W. or N. W*
from within 4 computed miles of the burgh of Dornoch on
the £., to a few miles of the church of AfTint, the pariih on
the' W. coaft. The length of it from E. to W.- inhabited, is
reckoned 34 computed miles 3 but the utmoft bounds of the

' parifli

ofCriicb. 363

parifli ftretch far Into the hills and moors, IjiDg between Criech
and the parilh of Eddirachjlis, and maj be reckoned upwards
of 40 meafured miles. The breadth of the parifli is yery on-
equal. In fome places it is but 2 miles broad : in fome 5^
and in the top of the parifliy it may be from 5 to xo miles
broad, and upwards. The parifh of Criech lies on the N.
of the Kyle or Frith of Tain, and the river Ockel. The
Itjle flows about iz miles above the church of Criech ; The'
river Ockel, difcharging itfelf into the Kjle, feparates it from
the parifli of Kincardioe for 10 miles. The parifli of Criech
lies oppofite to the parilh'of Kincardine, but ftretches about
fix miles farther eafiward, oppofite to the parifh of £dder«
town, feparated from thefe pariflies bj the Kjle and the river
Ockel. Its length xxx^j be feen to be verj great, from exa*
mining any common map of Scotland.

Soil, — ^The foil of the parifli is light and thjn, except in the
E. end of it, where there is deep loan); and fome meadows 01^
the Kyle, and the (ides of rivers in the top of it« The arable land
moftlylies on the Kyle fide, on a hard gravel. In many places
the gravel, when dug and mixed with dung, proyes excellent
manure. As the foil' is thin, and lies cxpofed to the fouth,
the hfirveft is in general very early, much more fo, than in
the low country, or in places farther to the fouth. There are
hills and moors back from the Kyle, where the tenant's cattle
are paftur^d in fummer. The hills, for the moft part, are
covere4 wit^ h^^th, with mapy interjacent fpots of green
grafs, efpecially n^ar fmall rivulets. The face of the parifli
is hilly.' Perhaps, not a thirtieth part 9f the parifli is cv^tu
vatcd.

CUmate and Dijlempers. — The cli^iate is very variou;. In
th^ eaft end of the parifli, it is as temperate as on the coaft of
^^therland* While the weather is dry and good in the eait

$€^ Staiiftkal Jcpwnt

cfidy U may be jftonnj and v^ wet in.the veflt p^y. ^idiem
the hills' a^re high and large. A dijS^eace pf dimate co^i*
monlj takes place eye^j \ mil^, the one fartheft weft be-?
ing the worft ; but even here fooie exception ts to be Qhfenred^
If the wind blows from the W. for any time, there b oftea
rain 19 the eaft end of the pariib* and if it blows fro;n the £•
^ere may be dry weather in the W.». and vice verfa* Socne->
Umes the crop has {boner been ripe, cut down and got in. in.
the weft part of the parifli than in- the eaft.

The clinnatei in general, is healthy, yet there b%ve not been
many examples of longevity ^r the laft %o years, thongli
mai^y live till they are paft 70, and fome till 80 : there is one
living at prefent 80, and another 84* Epidemical fever»
fometimes occur, and prove mortal, according to the feaibii
of the year in which they take place. When feyers happen|
they commonly fpread, occafiooed, perhaps, from the cnftom
that prevails, of the neighboura commg to vifit the fick per*
fons, and ftaying lo^g with them. If a perfon is fick^ and therg
i^ appearance of danger, it is ufual to fee the fmall apartment
crou4ed with neighbours and friends, many of v^hom muft
catch the infedion. The rheumatifm is become much morq
common of late than formerly. iSeveral have been cut o^
by the confumption, and there aVe feveral perfons now la*
bouring under the cancer. 7be fmall pox and meafles have
fometimes proved very futal. Inoculation for the fmall-pox
has fcarce been pra&ifed in this parifli. A few have been
inoculated this very fpxiog for the fmallrpoo^, which have
proired of the mcft favourable kind. It is diBScpU to iay, to
whaX the frequency of the rheumatifm is. to be afcri^ed. The
people now are as well lodged, clothed and fed, as their fore-
fathers. No difference in their diet has taken place for a
confiderable time paft, except that the ^pple liv^ more oapo-
ta^oes for a |^reat part of the ^ear $ which, however, are

fft^me4

dleemr^ inrliolefome fpod. This ptriQii efped^Qjr tbc weft
Civl of it^ lies at a great diftanpe frQm nil mediofll i^ajicst >

JRiW^, Fj^ apd Lfifj^^Th^ xvren ia thiai ptriib tti^ th^
;$2f 0 and the Cajsly^ a^d the Qppet part of the jarUk ia fefMratedl
£roin that of Kin^rdjoej \fj tbe riv^ Qckel* Tke Shin ifliie^
Itom Locbflitn in the pariib of X^rg;, It faUt ioto.thc Kf le^
or Frith of Tain^ at Inyerftio,. ^ a^ea above tbe cburph ofi
Criecb. The falmoQ on the riTer Shia are very laige, aad^
fifter being on the river for fome time, tnm brackiih. At
an average^ a (almpn barrel coqlaiiQa 9boot no orfe. There
isy on thia river, a calcade of a eonfidejable height, and a dec^
pool below^ into which the w^ter falk frocp the rock. Thn fifii|
leaping to get over thecafcfde, fdl b^Qkintoa^ecApr baf^et,
and are, killed. Mod of U^e fifli were in ufe to be cenghtm
tnis waj. The cafcade ia called ihi liWf Gnu^ci axe ereded

^ this feafoa on the 4ver,. which runs from N. ta & Tha.
length of the river from tbe S. to the Kjle, ia about 5 xailes«v
The Ca&ly, ifluing from the hills on the north weft of the pa-
liih, runs S. and falls into the l^jle at RpbbaUt The ialawa

^ pn this river nre fmall and white, and vcjj tender^ Th^
river Ockel iffues in part from the bigh biU of Or«beinpQor«
,/^flint, whence it runs eaflwan}, and falls injto the Kjrle, near
the place where the Gafslj joiQ$ ]/t» Tbe £dmon oa tbia river .
are large and good. There are trouta in all of tbofe watecs^.
The fiihermen can eafilj 4iftinguii]i tbe £MnQO of all tbdG» .
rivers, as well s^ of other two that fall into tb/K Kykift from,
tbofe of the Kincardbe $de. There axe feveral lakes in. the
pariib that abpun^ ip troutsi^ fome. of wbicb are of % ¥ei|r
|(0od ^u^lity. The Is^gfsft lakes are Ijioch^oaig^ol and i^ocb^
elfi, each about a meafure^ wle^ long. Piesjo ase iM^f

' pdiers of a leffer fixe*

5tt Sta4

HiMdkra WitB flwfep* TiHi ittltiiM^ of Yatt^ ttiy UidttiA fli
tpwafli of 4000, tod is itereafing. Theft Sieep fti^s bavA
l&nifiiflted dhe nateber of tulnbttanY^, U ¥rell as Ac numbed
#f bteck catde aad hkHrfts. Tlit beft of tbe n^odl lUIs ae 13^
Ao iloM^ 'If Itts* Scotth to the flone% Bfoft of ihtt finMdi
•ehMM faft^ a fe# iheep of a finaH fike, and badly WooUedi
Tbdr wvdders, wfatii fktyfeHat 5s. 6d; and 6r. 6di andfalil
Jbue ]M^ «go «t 3 s. 4 d. and 4 1« The ifaeep bdohj^ti^ t6
ihe (knaU tenants, it is thought, fiifbr fi^om dicit bad manages
ment. They put them up in a (mail hut, Juft large enough
lOconhdn flieif number, both fuiAmet AM n^hiter. llA,- iik
a probabifity, butts them.

' fofuUftim^^TiPt fetttrh t» I>r. Webftef , of thft ftate of
the poptthttion, in 17551 was 1705. The number of the vtAxz^
bitants on the whole, is much the fame that it was ao or 3d
jnears ago^ being in fome places left, and in otfaets mb^e im^
merous than formerly. In the year 1771-^3, feverad emigrated
to Amdrfca« Some farms hare beeti conjoined, and a confid6r<*
Ale nutbber of inhabitants have been removed otft of gronndi
turned into iheep Walks. By all thefe means, the npmber of
people have been confiderably diminShed in the weftem di<4
ixfion of the pariib ; but in the eaftem they are moi^ numehi
^us than before^ The total number of catechifitUe perTonfi
or thofe above 7 years of ^ge, in fpring 1791^ came to 1384 %
fb that adding the ufnal ptt>pordoh of^, the totdt poptbitidft
may be ftat^d at ^730 fouls. Hiere are very fenl^ bachdorifi
as the men, in general, inarry yonng« There are very fei#
married perfons without children. The medium of ehildreit
in each family is 5 or 6. The numbet of fmall tenants, eaft-
^ard from the river Shm, for 0 computed titiltsi is ab6u( i j6«
ftefides people who have (j&att crofts.

ofCriecb. 369

Jiifitf CuUvDatum and Proprietors. — The valued rent of the
pari(h is 1983 1. Scotch* The real rent may be upwards of
900 1. Sterlbg. The rent of the feveral. falmon fiihings, oa
the rivers and frith^ maj amount to 1401. Sterling. Much
of the arable land is dear. In fome parts of the parifh, the '
fowing of a boll of bear, (fomething more than a Scotch
acre,) pays il. Sterling. In manj places the ground is fit
onljfor fmall black oats, of which three crops are taken on fuch
land, and then it is allowed to reft for 3» 4» or 5 years,
after which it is cropped again. Very few experiments have
been made, to afcertain how lime would anfwer with fuch
ground. There are 8 proprietors in the parifh, of whom on-
ly I refides conftantly. One gentleman pays of rent 1^0 1.
Sterling. One Iheep farm is rented at 130 1.; but the msb-
jority of farms are poflefled by fmall tenants*

Crops and Producf .-^-^Thc chief crops are barley, white
oats, fmall black oats, potatoes, and a very fmall quantity o'f
peafi^ The oats are commonly fown in the laft week of
March, and beginning of April } io the few large farms, the
oats are fown fooner, if the weather permits. They ufually
fow bear in the beginning of May. The people here are
come into the practice of cultivating potatoes to a ropfider-
able amount, and find their account in it ; they raife as ma.
ny potatoes, as, at an average, may be fufiicient to fupply the
place of bread for four or five months in the year. Some have
them until June, and they commonly begin to ufe them the
iaft week of Augud, and fometimes fooner. They have proved
of the greateft benefit to this difirid. Even when viAual is
very fcarce, and there is a great demand for bread, as foon
as the potatoes are fit fer food, the demand fiops inftantly.
The parifli produces, in tolerably good years, rather more vic-
tual than would be fufficient for fupply ing itfelf.-— There are.

Vol. VIII. 3 A frui^t

jyp Statiftical Account

fruit trees only in three or foar gardens, which produce plen«
tifully in Ibme years.

Ecclefiafiical Statf.~^ThtTe is not one perfon in this pariih,
who does not belong to the eftabliihed church. There was a
mlflionarj minifter fettled for upwards of 25 y«ars» in the
heights of the parilhes of Criech and Kincardine, who
preached every third Sabbath in the high grounds of Creech,
He had a falary of ajl. Sterling, from his majeQy's royal boun«
ty, and of 7I. Sterling from the pariihes. Fifteen computed
miles of the pariib of Criech were under diis miiEon ; but
it was difcontinued, and the falary removed, at Whitfunday
1789, by the Committee for managing the royal bountyi on
account (as was faid,) of the deficiency of the Society*!
funds i although the Commitee had no other miHIonary in the
bounds of tlie preibyteries of Dornoch or Tain, and although
the extent of thefe two pariihes, contiguous to each other in two
different preibyteries, the number of the inhabitants, and
their eager defire for the means of inftruftion, and for living
the ordinances of the gofpel adminiftered among them, (on
which they pun&ually attend,) pled loudly for the continu«»
ance of the miflion* This would have been a great hardfhip
on the people, as well as on the minifters of their pariihes,
bad not the knowledge of the cafe excited the compaiTion and
fy mpathy of Lady Rofs Baillie ; who, out of her own liberality,
has appointed a permanent miilion in this extenfive diilrift,
with a better falaty than was afforded by the Committee ; to*
gether with large accommodations, that will render the ftation
fufficiently comfortable.

The ilipend of the eilabliihed minifter is 71 bolls of viflual,
one half oatmeal and the other half bear ; 25 1. Sterling in
money, and iL 138. 4d. Sterling for grafs. The decreet was
ebtaiped fpr theftjpend in 1708. The parilh can bear a great

augmentation^
3

ofCriecb. 371

ftiigmentatiofl, which is much needed, and it is Hoped will be
granted ; living being now more than doubled, even in this
comer, fince the time this flipend was fixed. A new manfo
was built in 1780; and the church was built lad Summer
and is now finiihed.

Paor.—- There are no funds for the poor, but the coUefliioni
made at dioxcb, which are fmall and pitiful indeed, amounting
only to 4l« or 5L Sterling a year, and a very little for dues
of the mort-cloth* The number of the poor on the roll, in
the eaft divifion of the pariib, is 37, and in the weft ^3 \ in
all 50* They can fcarce get more than what is necefikry to
buy flioes to them : Very few, however, of this number go
about begging* Moft of them earn in harveft and otherwife,
as much as is neceiTary to fupport them ; they commonly get,
from fome friend ot neighbour, a little land fpr potatoes,
which is of great fervice to them. If a perfon is quite poor,
and unable to work at all, or difeafed, the neighboprs fend in
what is nearly fu£Bcient; or fome fHend goes about among tho
tenants, and gets fupplies for fuch an objed. On very ez«
traordinary emergencies, a coUeftion is raifed in the church.

Scarciiy in 1 783-4. — This pari(fa,like others in the neigh*
bourhood, was in great diftrefs in Summer 1783 and 1784,
efpecially in 1783. None however died for want. On feveral
eftates, the heritors procured vidual to their tenants' from
time to time ; the vidua], fent by government, was diftribut«
ed among moft of the families of the parifli. The poor were
fingularly indebted to a gentleman in Glafgow, of uncommon
benevolence, who bad lived in the parifli when a boy, and
who fent money, and five bolls of white peafe, which were
difiributed among upwards of 80 parfons, in proportion to
their neceffity. Some few removed with their families to the

3 A a Ihorcs

$J2 Statifiical Account

fhores abounding with cockles, &c. which were uocommonljr
plentiful that feafoni and fupported them for fome time. Bj
thefe means the lives of the people were providentiallj pre-
ferved.

Ferries and Roads. — ^Tbere are no bridges in this parilh;
but there are 4 or 5 ferries between it and that of Kincardine,
which are crofied bj cobbles^ or jawls, and boats, that can fer-
ry over two horfes each, or more. The people in: this pariik
and neighbourhood, have been amufed from time to time
with the hopes, that a bridge was to be built over the Kyle,
at C'ulrain, about four miles above the church of Criech, at
the expence of government. It would be of great advantage
to the inhabitants of this diftrift in particular, befides the
emolument that would accrue to the community at large, if
the public road around the ferries were brought this way by
a bridge. Such a bridge would be particularly convenient for
drovers ; alt the cattle driven to the fouth from Sutherland,
€aithnefs, and Lord Reay's country, except the parifli of
Aifint, having hitherto been obliged to cxob the Kyle by
fwimming ; which, when the weather is bad, and the Kyle
much fwelled by rains, hurts the cattle greatly, efpecially
when the night following proves cold. Sometimes they
refufe to fwim, in which cafe they muft be ferried over
by the cobble. The people pretend to foretell, whether they
ihall have a good market or not, by their readinefs to fwim.
The roads, in this extenfive pari(h, are very bad ; ftatute
work^is but feldom performed, which may be owing to this
circumftance, that few heritors refide in it. The roads mighc
eafily be made good, as the bottom is hard and gr;ivelly.

^nfti^niriWe— Near the church, there is an obeliik, or high
ftone, 8 feet long and 4 feet broad, marked diftioftly with the

fijn

ofCriecb. 373

figii of the crofs. According to tradition, a Danifh chief was
interred here. On the top of the Duo of Crieoh, a hill of
a great height above the level of the fea, and rather jetting out
into the Frith, there are the remains of a raoipart. The walls
have been cemented with a vitrified fluff, foinething fimilar
to the r^fofe of iron in a fmith's forge. The cement is as
hard as 4 rock. It is faid, that this rampart was begun to ht
built, in the lath century, hy Vt faui M^Tter^ a branch of
the noble family of Rofs. At the top of the Kyle, there is
an old caftle, fuppofed to have been a place where jafiice was
formerly adminiftered* This cenjedure derives fome plauli-
bility from the name of the hill oppofite to it, which is called
Curor na Croiie^ The bill of the gibbet *.

CbaraSier — ^The people, for the moft part, are regular and .
orderly, and behave inoffenfiyely, and many of them in an ex-
emplary manner f . It cannot indeed be faid, that they are in-
duilrious, nor do they enjoy what would much prompt them
thereto, as there are no manufadures carried on here. But
what they want in point of induflry, they make up by fru-
gality. In fome places, wbifky drinking is rather too com-
mon, which is not eafily avoided ; as they are often employ-
ed in buying and felling cattle, and making other bargains, in
the neighbourhood of feyeral diftilleries. Only one perfon
has fuffered for a capital crime within thefe ao years ; viz.
for theft and houfe-breaking.

Difadvantagis.

* The names of places are almoft all derived from the Gaelic. Some of them
have references to combats betwixt the clans, as tmdamiafUaek^ pUmUfulfaU;
Dareebm, the md oftb* battU^ iS^c,

t The common people all fpeak Gaelic ; but many can fpeak and undcrlland
Zni^lift.

374 Statiflical Account

Difadvantages.^^^ local difadvantBge, which the weflerii di-
vifion of the pariih labours under, is, that, as much of the arable
land and meadows lie along the fides of the K jki and the other ri*
vdrs, the J are fubje A to inundations every Ceafon of the year* The
want of mannfadores is a di&dvantage, under which this pariih
fornoerly laboured, in comoaon with the moft of this countrj ;
though now, by the exertions of a ref^daUe proprietor in the
pariih, a new fcene is beginning to open itfelf to our view.
To that circumftance it was in a great meafure owing, that the
people were not fo induftrious, as otherwife they would have
been. Young lads, in the fpring and fummer, ufually went in
great nuoibers to the fouth, in fearch of employment. There, they
got high wages, and returned in winter to their parents, or re«
lations, fomewhat in the ilile of gentlemen^ and were a bur-
den on their friends the whole winter, until they fet out
again in fpring. Some of them married in the fouth ; others
died, or were picked up by recruiting parties* Unmarried
girls went to the fouth alfo for fervice, efpecially before har-
veft. * It is not unreafonable to conclude, that thefe have beea
among the caufes, of diminiiking the number of inhabitants.

The only fpecies of manufadory iji thefe bounds^ previous
to the erefting the cotton mill, by Mr. DempAer and his part*
ners, was the fpinning linen yam : This is but a vtrj fcanty
earning. There are 4 or 5 perfoos in the pariih, who give
lint out to fpin : one of thefe gets 10,000 fpindles fpun in a
year ; the others not near fo much : But it is to be obfervedi
. that they give out lint to fpin, to the people in the neighbour-
ing pariihcE, as well as to the people of the pariih itfelf: 4d,
or jd. is the moft that a woman can earn in a day^ and few
eaju fo much by fpinmng.

Modern Improvements ^^-^e. ihall conclude this paper with
the obfervations of a diilinguiihed Britilh patriot, and a real
friend to the happinefs of Ibciety, (GfORGE DempsteRi lESq.

ofCriecb. 375

of Poimicfaeii), who having purcha&d a confiderable propertj in
this and the adjoining parifh, and having the management of
•another eftate in this parifli, acquired bj his brother Captain
Dempster, has jnft begun to carry into pradice fome part of
a plan, which appears to him well calculated for the iroprove-*
ment of a Highland eftate. At Sir John Sinclair's exprefs
defire, his thoughts on this important fubjeft, were latelj
comn^unicated to the writer, in the following words.

Vhk'sfpr improving tb^ eftatei o/'Skibo afli FuL&ossijc.

Thefe eftates contain about 18,000 acres of land,. extending
from the point of Ardnacalk on the north bank of Domock,
vv eft ward to Port-I^eak, being an extent of z 2 or 14 miles.
The bulk of the eftate is billj, but the hills are of no great
height, feembg generally to rife about from 500 to 700 feet
above the level of the Frith. There may be about 200 fa*
milies living on thefe eftates, with the exception of the
mains^ or houfe-fieinn, of each place. The farms are of fmall ex«
tent ip regard to arable ground , They produce ibme corn and po-
tatoes, hardly fufScient to maintain the families of the tenants.
The tenants pay their rents by the fale of cattle, which are fed in
.their hoyfes, on ftraw, through the winter, and pick up a
miferable fubfiftence on the wafte and common ground of the
eftate, durins the fummer. The whole of the prefent rent is
from 700I. to 800I. a year, of which more than a fourth part
is paidt by the two Urge farms belonging to the mains, or man-
fion-boufe* The eftates fumifli fome wood, with which, and
the fwarded furface of the g^und, cut into the form of large
. bricks, they nuike houfes and offices for themfelves, covering
tb^m with the fame fwarded turfs, cut thinner, and re&mbliag

flates

37^ Statiftical Account

ilates io tfaeir form* Once in three yemrs, all the earthy part
of thefe houfes is thro'WQ on the dunghiU, and new hoofes
built again of the fame materials. The cattle commonly oc-
cupy one end of the houfe, daring the winter feafon. Some
holes in the walls and roofs ferve for windows and chimneys.
An iron pot, for boiling their food, conftitutes their principal
furniture. Nothing can exceed the wretched appearance of
thefe habitations. As to the occupations of the people, the
women begin to earn a little money by fpinning. The young
' men go early in the fpring to the fouth country, and hire
themielves for all kinds of country labour ; towards harveft,
many of the wotnen alfo go the lame way, to aifift in cutting
down and getting in the crop. They all return before winter,
and are faid to pafs their time round good fires of peat, which
the country every where fumilhes, and to do very little work.
In the fouth country, however, to which they go, they are
remarked for their affiduity, and are faid to be indefatigaUe
in executing all manner of talk work. Thofe, who remain at
home, attend to the concerns of their com, potatoes, and cattle,
and to the providing of their fuel from the neighbouring peat
mofles. The climate, near the banks of the Kyle, or Frith
of Dornoch, ripens wheat, barley, oats, and peafe ; becoming
gradually colder, as you recede therefrom, and afcend the hills,
which are covered with heather, interfperfed with coarfe gra&.
The vallies among the hills, and the ground on the fides of the
hflls, appear to be capable of being cultivated ; and there are
many little rifing grounds, fome flat moors, and the face of
fome of the hills fo bare and ftoney, as to be fit for plantations
only. It need hardly be mentioned, that the inhabitants are in
general poor ; — that is, poflefs little money or goods, except
a flock of very indifferent cattle.

It is not the intention, therefore, of the proprietors, to ex-
aa, for fome time, any incrcafe of rents from thefe people \

butf

' rfCreick ' '377

fiuty oa the contrarj, to encoarage them« by every poflible
ineans, to improve their little Tpots of land, to ere£l for
ihemfelves mdre comfortatyle hoafes, and to build them of
snore dnrible materials. On tbefe eftates, there are fome
ilations remarkably well adapted for villages. They lie oa
ihe banks of the Kyle, which is a frith or arm of the fea, na«
'vigable for 7 miles, by veffels of a confideraUe burden, and
for fmall craft, about 15 miles more. In all, this Frith is navi-
• gable for 24 miles. To give si beginning to thefe villagesf
n company is formed, confiding chiefly of Glafgow gentlemen^
i^ho have fubferibed a Capital df 3000 1. and made fome pro*-
^efs in erefting a manufadufe of fpinning cotton by jennies^
and of weaving their yarn. Inilrufted perfons are fent from
Glafgow to condnfi the work, and to teach the natives 6f the
country the arts of fpinning iCnd weaving. The town is lot-^
ted out, and fome honfea for weaving are in forwardnefs.
Veflels of 56 tons burden can land their cargoes at this
place.

A fecond village^ two miles lower down the Kyle, is alfo
lotted out, and a large warehoiife already built. Here, the
water is deep enough to rec^ite any veflel, that can enter
the Kyle, and come over the bar, (known by the name of the
C%%%inBrigt^ at its mouth, on which there is 4 fathom water
at fpring tides, and 6 or 7 feet lefs at neap tides. Here alfo,-
a gentleman has undertaken to eftablifb the weating of linen^
and to encourage the extenfion of the fpinning of yarn all
around the eoiuttry. At both maanfaftures, apprentices will
be inftruAed in the art of weaving^ in order to introduce \hac
art into the houfes of the fmall tenants, as it is found already
• io be in the (hires of Renfrew, Perth, Angus and Aberdeen^
By thefe meand, conftant employment will be found for pe6«
pie of all ages and fexes, and a confiderable market opened for
-the prodafiUona of the country.

Voi.VIIL 3 B That

37^

Statijlical Account

That the people may have nothing to divert their attentidtt'
from their own bufinefs, all the fervices performed bj them and
their cattle, to the! rfuperiors, are commuted in to money; and thir*
lage to the mills of the baronies is alfo aboliihed. Meafures ar«
taking to give the people fecure pofTeffion, (for their own lives
at lead,) of their houfes, gardens and arable landS| with full
liberty to cultivate as much of the wafte land as .they pleafe.
Their cattle are fuffercd to paAure on the other wafte lands*
^as long as they ihall remain in a walle condition ; but the pro-
prietors refer ve to themfelvesy the power of inclofing and
planting all fuch par^s of the walle landsj as are fit for no
other purpofe. Some plantations of this kind have been al«
ready made, and the trees feem to thrive very well on the
lighted foils. The trees are principally the larch, the Scotch
fir, and the birch, intermixed with beech and mountain aih.
The reft of the wafte land is open t» every fettler, who (hall
incline to cultivate them. Twenty or thirty new fettlers have
Already exhibited ftrong proofs of what Highlanders can do, in
the improvement of their own country, .when fecured in the
enjoyment of the fruits of their labour. It may be worth
ivhile to mention the nature of this fecurity. The firft fet-
tlers may innprove as much land as they find wafte around
them, for which they pay only i s. a- year during their lives..
When they die, their heirs have the refufal of their father's
pofteflion^at an apprized value, to be fixed by arbitrators mutu*
ally chofen . This rent is invariable, till the next generation, whea
the valuation is to be repeated ^ and fo on everj generation. A
little iron for tools, wood for their houfes, and feed potatoes*
and corn, is furnilhed to them for the firft 2 years. They are
exempted from every fpecies of perfonal fervice. Thofe, who
have vifited the mountainous countries of Switzerland, Wales
and Norway, have feen what liberty and fecurity can do, to--
u ards rendering them fertile. In addition to the general free-

^fCrtecb. 379

<iotn, which the inhabitants of this happj ifland enjoy, under our
-mild and durable conllitution, the inhabitants of thofe eilates
ivill enjoy perfed fecurity, as occupiers of land. That thofe
advantages will lead them gradually to better their houfes, to
improve their lands, an^ to alter their own condition in every
xefpe6fc for the better, is beyond a doubt.

To calculate the advantages, which will in time accrue from'
this fyftem, to theownei;s cf 18,000 acres of land, on which
it is introduced, would be no eafy matter ; but the following ob-
fervations, will lead, perhaps, to the forming fome idea of them.
Land lets, for potatoe grounds and other purpofes, round
many towns in Scotland, at various rents, from il« upwards.
Manufa£turers in Lancaihire, and in fome of the counties of
Scotland, pay for the little fpots they occupy in the country^
round their own houfes^ from 1 1. to 4 1. Sterling per acre.
The cotton manufafture is faid to have doubled the rents of
Lancafliire, within thefe lad 20 years. The demand for wood is
very great ; and as all the woods on this eftate, will be near a
navigable frith, the wood will fetch the current price, and be li-
able to little d'wdudion, from the facility of carrying it to mar-
ket ; while the pra£ticability of being fupplied with that article
from the Baltic, is faid to leflea yearly. The probable future
value of thefe eftates, ^nnot be eafily afcertained \ but, wc
know, that wherever induftry has extended itfelf in Scotland,
the rents of land have rifen at lead threefold, and much more
in the neighbourhood of towns. It is to be ohfervcd, that this
fyftem is attended with no expcr.ce of any material confe-
qucnce, except that part of it, which confills in planting the
ufelefs land ; which, as it is co:.{iJer.ible, (ptrhaps not lefs
than 3I. per acre,) may either be omitted, or dene on a fmaller
fcale and by flow degreed, according to the faculty and incli^
sation^of the proprietor,

3 B 3 Shall

380 Stati/lical Account

Shall we fiate none of the advantagesi but thofe of a fecu^^
idary nature ? Is nothing to be fet down, for the pleasure os

BKHOLpiNG THE fROGILKSS OF THE FROSFEKITT OF A COUNTRY?
IS THE JOT OF 8EEIKG TOWHS AND HOUSKS ARISIKG AROUND
TOO OF NO VALUE ? NOR THE ULTIMATE B^NhflT D^ RIVED TO
TOUR COUNTRY, BT ADDIKG TO IT, INDUSTRIOUS INHABITANTS
X»jy CULTIVATED LAND ; THRIVING TOWNS AND FLOURISHING

MANUFACTURES? Is there no pleafure in beholding the
growth of woods of one's own planting ? nor in the fuccefs of
a fjfienii fo intimately connefted with the hafbinlss of feo-

FLr FLACED BT PROVIDENCE UNDER OUR CARE? Some bave

thought, that it would be a fitter ufe for the Highlands, tocon«
yert them into Iheep-walks. That it might be better forthe peo-
ple to cultivate ibeep, infiead of black cattle, is probably true.
iSThat the (beep iis a hardier, and a more ufeful animal than the
ox, may be true alfo. That the increafe of rents, by convert*
ing cattle-breeding farms, into (beep walks, would be more
fudden, than by the fyiiem here fuggefied, is not to be dif«
puted. But that the eftates would ultimately become more
valuable, is by no means fo clear a propofition. Tracks of
land, which have been converted into (beep farms, yield little
more, at an average, than il. Sterling, per ico acres. This is
indeed a better rent than before. But how contemptible mult
this rent appear, when compared witn an eflatc occupied by
induilrious manufadurers, and abounding in large woods of
tbefintft ^r, )>irch, and other trees ? It is to be obferved too,
that there is a certain incompatibility between flieep, and peo-
ple and trees. No care can proted new plantations from,
the depredations of fheep ; they overleap every fence, and
elude the utmofi vigilance of the ihepherd. The leaves of
trees are their favourite food in fnmmer; and the bark
jfl theic medicme, as well as food in winter. The lower

cround^

gfCNiadsy now occupied by people, muft be referved for, the
food and ibelter of the flock in winter \ and this circumfianco
fcems to form the chief iocoi&patibilitj, between fliecp and
people. This argument will have the greateil weight* witb
thofe, whpfe obfervation o^ inquiries maj have led them, to
compare the mountainous parts of Spain, appropriated ta
ibeep-w^lks, with the mountains of Switzetland and Wales,
occupied by free and induftrious inhabitants. The compa^
rifon is pot to be made by units or decimals \ for the advan«
fage of men inftead of ibeepv are as thoufands to one* As tho
underftandingf induftry. and ingenuity of man, in a ilate of
freedom, are fuperior to thoTe of the brute creation, fo is the va^
lue of an eftate inhabited by mankind, to one occupied by flieep«
It is true, tbe people need not be driven out of the
pountry, becaufp ibeep are introduced into it* ViUage^^
inay be built for them, where they might be employed
ia manu€%£tures. \jkX me alk, has that been the cafe ? aod
let me doubt a little of the (uccefs of villages by compoU
iion. It is one thing to build a village, to which people may
refort if they choofe it, and another to drive them from the
country into villages, where they muft ftarve, unlefs they
(Change at once their manners, their habits, and their occupationt.
How much better would it be, gradually to introduQc fpin«
oing wheels and looms into their houi'es, than to drive them
from their houfes, their gardens, and their little fields ? Befide^
are men as advantageoufly placed in villages, for cuJtivatiDg
the foil, as when difperCed over every Corner of the eftafee ?
Towns are fa id to thrive in proportion to the populoii£>'
nefs of the country around them. It is by a mutual exchange
of commodities, that both towns, and the country around^ in^
toalty fupport one another. To conclude, it is neither 1^ '*
feeding black cattle nor iheep, in the Highlands, that that
pountry can be improved^ but by the introdufiion of arts and

agriculture.

^ 2 Statjftical Account

agriculture. The firft will increafe the number and wealtk
of the people } the latter will augment the quantitj of the pro«
duAion of the foil, both for the maintenance of peo[fle and
cattle.' But neither arts nor agriculture can profper, unlefs
the inhabitants are fecure in the tenure, bj which thej oc.
oup7 the fpots on which thej live. Oood laws, a vigorous ex-*
cctttion of -them, feus, and long leafes, are the great fources of the
profpertty of every country, of Highland, as weH al of more fer^
ttleand champaign countries. Trythequeftionby this teft. Let
us aik ourfelves, if the Highlands of Scotland, poflefles ac pre-
fent thofe fources of improvement and wealth ? To thefe indeed
mud be fuperadded, on the part of government, good roads
made at the public expence ; for no mountainous country can
be completely improved, till it be made acceifible by good roads^
the expence of whichi its inhabitants ate unable to defray.

As this is THE riRST ATTEMPT to introduce the Manufac-*
TURK of Spinning and Weaving Cotton into the High-.
LANDS, the names of the Partners of this New Compan?
deferve to be mentioned. The reader will obferve, that pub-
lic fpirit is the motive by which moft of the partners have
been induced to embark their property in an undertaking,
which may prove highly advantageous to the Highlanders,
and particularly fo to the proprietors of the above and other
contiguous eft ates ; but never, probably, will prove fo profita-
ble to the other partners, as undertakings of this kind,fituated
more immediately under their own eye. Each fhare in this
company is one hundred pounds Sterling. The capital ia
30P0L1—- and the partners aro

^ Mr,

tfCridih,

^'^S

Wr. David Dale of Glafgow,

Mr. George M'Intofli of do.

Mr. William Robcrtfon of do,

Mr. James Robertfon of ^o.

Mr. Andrew Robcrtfon of do.

Mr. Robert Dunmore of do.

Mr. Robert Bogle of Baldowiey do.

Mr. Robert Mackie of do.

Mr. William Gillefpic of do.

Mr. John Mackenzie of London,

Mr. Dougal Gilchrift of Hofpidale,

Mr. William Monro of Achannj^

Mr. John Frafer, fador to Lord Gower,

Mr. Benjamin Rofs of Tain,

Mr. Scott of Dunninauld, M. P.

Captain James lUttraj of Arthurftoae^

Mr. John Ramfajy a£ting manager.

Captain J. H. Dempfter of Polroi&e,

Mr. Dempfter of Dnnnichen,

Vacant, • • •

2
2

30 of iool.»

-It roaj lie proper to add, that Mr. Alexander Morifon of
Dundee, is the perfon who propofes eftabliihing the linen ma#-
AufaAuie in the couotj of Sutherland.

NUMBER

||4 Statifiieal Accouni

N tJ M B E R XXII*.
PARISH OF DUFFUS.
{County and Siynod of Moray^^—PrtfiyUry of Elgm.^
By a Friend to StAtisTicAL lK<iyiRiss;

Extent f Surface f ^oil and Produce i

DUFFUS extends j miles in length, from £• to tif;
along the S. coaft of the Moray Frith, and in breadth
|rom 2 to 3 miles S. and N* It is one continued plain, ex-
cepting a riiing ground, of no great height, near the middle of
the parifh, which is every whef e arable; Along the coaft, aU
the length of the pariih, and more than half a mile of the
breadth of it, the furface is a tne^ire, greed, benty paftuie.
All this ground had formerly been a rich cultivated foil ; but
for many years, has been overblown with dry fand, from the
weftern beach . TheTfand has for fome time ceafed to blow, and
a great part of this fpace may again be brpoght into' talture^'
by the application of the fpade or trench plough* There ha««
already been fome fuccefsful eiperimtnts of this kinid, and- iff
many places, there is but little depth of fand upon the top.

All

* N. B. The PARXsa of Criech, marked I^dmbbk XIX, fhould Estc been
KuMBER XXI; and all the preceding pariihct, (from Carluke, which is erro*'
iicoufl/ Aated as Number VIIIiiDfteadof Nuusit IX,} are nambered «m vo^
low.

All the reft of this parifli is one continued arable plain, ca4
pable of producing every thing that will grow any where in
Scotland. The eaftward diftrid is a deep rich claj, refembling
the Carfe of GoWrie, and is remarkable for fnperior crops of
wheat, and of peafe and beans. The weftern diftri^ is a
black earth, in fome places fo much mixed with (and, as to
render it of inferior quality \ but in other places fo reaiark««
ably rich, as, without any application of modem hufbandry^
to prodnce crops, particularly barley, for quality and increafe
not to be furpalTed in Scotland \ and reaped as early as the fame
crop on thecoafts of Lothian, where fowing is in general earlier,
and where agriculture is under Rood. The barley of this dif«
trid, when fent to the Frith of Forth, yields as good a price
as the bed Stirlingfhire or call Lothian barley. Along; the
coaft of this pari(b, there are quarries of fine freeftone, and, a
little way up from the coaft, quarries of lime*ftone ; a trea«
fure in agriculture, locked up from us for want of fuel, and
which nothing but the abolition of the coal' tax can open*
The plaia of Duffus, together with the ground of the ad«
joining pariihes, is often (perhaps more from richnefs thao
^tuatipn) called the Heart of Morayjbint^

doq/l.^^Tht coaft of this parlih is generally flat* At the
weft end, the land*is at prefent only 4 feet above the level of
the water. At this quarter, during the courfe of this century,
the water has increafed confiderably on the land* Should it
ever rife 4 feet higher than it does at prefent, it mud fall in*
to the lower grounds to the eaftward, and overflow a great
proportion of the extenfive plains of Duflfus, Drainy, Leuchari^
Spiney and Innes. Yet this poJJShility is fo little regarded,
diat perhaps no one ever bought or fold the property of thefe
difirids, a farthing lower from this confideration. How far
it is expedient or pradicable, to ward off iq great an evil.

Vol. VIIL 3 C by

386 Statyiical Account

hj erefting monads and balwarks oa the (bore, is left to
thofe immediatelj concerned to determine.

Climate^ — ^The fnperior tarlinefs, fertility, and warmth, of
the plains of Morayfliire, are fafts more certain than eafj to
be accounted for. It is known, that we are in a Tery northern
latitude. The mountains of Sutherland and Caithnels, feem to
be at too great a diftance from ns, to afford us (heker from the
north winds, which blow over- a great furface of water before
thej reach us. To the £. we are alfo open to the German
Ocean. It is true, that we have lefs rain than elfewhere,
which isTaid to be accounted for bj the flatnefs of our toun*
tj ; but other counties of Scotland, equally flat, have more
rain. Our furface alfo inclines to the N., and the only near
hills we have, are thofe on the S., feemingly more calculated
lo overihadow and hurt us, then to give us warmth. Itis faid, our
foil is light, and therefore warm: it is fo in many places ; but
there are alfo large diftrids of deep black earth, and of rank
day, where the fame earlinefs appears. After all, were we
merely to confult tafie and imagination, in the choice of a reii«
dence, many would prefer what are often to be met with in the
fouth of Scotland, green hills, with lefs fertility, and warmth
in the valleys, to our dryer, eadier, and richer plains, with
the profpeft of black gloomy hills 00 the upper landfcape.

Diflempers. — ^Pcftoral complaints, rhcumatifra, and fevers,
are the moft frequent difcafes. The king's evil is not uncom«
mon ; and of late madnefs feems fo be increafiog, even among
the common people. Upwards of 20 years ago, agues werfe
frequent near the Take ; but were confined to that iituation.
None of the fea-faring people are ever feized with agues*
The itch is become much more rare th^n it was formerly.
It is a truth, which no mere EngUJbman will readily believe,

i that

of Duffus. 3S7

that in this comparativelj rode part of Britain, the itch,
at prefent, is lefs frequent, in proportion to its population,
than in the Britiih capital* With us, it arlfes from want of
.deanlinefs in our perfoos and clothes; but in London,
confined £tuation, flrong feeding, and a thronged population,
are the co-operating caufes.

Woods* — Upon the fouth border of this parifli, a common
was lately divided bj the different proprietors, and planted
'with Scotch firs. Planting here is doublj meritorious, as wood
is needed equally for timber and for fuel. It may be obferred,
that the planting of foreft trees is the only branch of improve-
ment, io which our country has of late kept pace with the im-
proving diftrids of Scotland. Within the laft 25 years, con-
fiderable plantations have been made. In the eaftern diftridsof
the county, Scotch firs chiefly appear, even in many places
.where it is prefumed the ground would have nourifhed bet-
ter wood. In the weftem difiri&s of our county, Scotch fira
have been employed in the plantations, as they ought to be
where the foil and climate require it, merely as nurfes in tender
years, to more beautiful and valuable trees^ as oak» elm,
alb, Su:.

Orchards. — ^Buchanan fays, ** that Moray, for pleafantnefs, and
the profit arifing from fruit trees, furpaiTes all the other counties
of Scotland.** In modern times/ we have much negle&ed this
culture; and our orchards are at prefent often found about de-
ferted cafiles and religious houfes, nearly as much in decay
as the buildings they furround.

Braining of Lakes. — ^The art of draining lakes, fo as to
render grounds fit for agriculture, feems to be here, as it is
indeed throughout Scotland in general, but in its infancy.

3 C a T\\9

^fif Statiftical Account

The lake of Spinej has been allowed to fpread for.mlles, bd-«
yond its original bed, and to cover, in whole, or in part, a
large portion of very rich ground. A few years ago, an im-
perfeft attempt was made to draw off the water from the up-
per grounds, by which fome hundreds a-year wece gained to
the proprietors ; but a complete draining, which is vtrj pra&«
Icable, and would be deemed eafy in other countries, would
|>roduce thoufands«

Cultivation. — Agriculture, with a few exceptions, is here
in a very low ftate. The old plan of inceffant tillage, with*
out reft to the ground, or without having any fufficient pro-
portion of it fown out in grafs, or other green crops, ftill pre*
vails. Grafs, on the little fpots where it is fown, thrives re-
markably well. Our tenants are either without leafes alto-
gether, or have leafes too Ihort for anfwering- any valuable
purpofe. No wonder then that farming has not advanced.
Our farms are fmall, and we have no fubtenants* The pa-
rifli is totally openi excepting fuch inclofures as are round
gentlemen's places. Various are the evils incident to open
fields. One of the mod teafing, and not the leaft hurtful, is the
devaftation inceiTaQtly made by our half flarved cattle, upon
the adjoining com fields, whofe hunger impels them to break
from the range of grals, to which they are flaked, or from
the charge of carelefs boys and girls fet to watch them— S«i-
V^eed is much ufed for a manurct

Services. — ^Some fervice^ are ftill continued here j and upon •nc
cftate, the tenth Jheaf is drawn in teind from the field, as part
of the rent. Rent is paid chiefly in grain, often at the rate
of a guinea per acre, — z price not too high for the quality of the
ground ; but too high without leafes, flrength or ikill to cul-
tivate it. The abjeft fpirit of feudal habits, has made our

tenantry

o/Duffus. 3S<j

tenantrj undervalue their labour, and give to tlie fuperibr
fuch a proportion of their earnings, as leaves them without a de«
cent maintenance ; and renders this clafs of men, of all thoie who
are able to labour, the pooreft and mod dependant among us.
Their poverty has thruft them out of the rank, which it is
advantageous to the community, that their profefEoa ihould
hold.

General Appearance. '•-^AlxhovL^ there is abundance of e»«
cellent ftones for building houfes, the people in general are iU
lodged. The meanneCi of their cottages, the ieannels of their
cattle, the open unimproved appearance of the fields, &c. pre-
fent to the eje of a ftranger a verjr unfavourable view of a
country naturally rich. Perhaps it was, with fuch objeAi
before htm, that the great living hiftorian of Scotland, while
in Moray, (aid with furprife, " // ibu the fou province ^ of
V)bicb I have heard fo much /**

Black Cattle^ Rorfes^ Sleeps and Poultry.---^vLr mode of
farming makes little provifion for black cattle, of which our
(lock is not great. We plough all with horfes, and thefe art
(till of an indifferent breed, and ill kept up. They fubfift in
winter chiefly upon ftraw ; the farmers have no hay. — ^Tfaere
are, in the pariih, about aooo of the fmall white-faced breed of
(heep, fed on the bentypafture already mentioned. — Our poultry
have long been remarkable for large fize and good quality ;
whether this is to be afcribed to the fuperior richnefs of our
grain, or whether there is any peculiarity in the breed, is not
afcertained« '

Pofulation.^^Oiir population is at prefent 1500. It has
not greatly diminiihed for fome years pail, notwithftandmg
there have been a few emigratioixst The return to Dr. Web-

ftcr

i^yb , Statifiical Account

fler ia X755, however, was 1679. About the end of laft
war, fimne iodividuals weot to North America^ a few of whofa
xetnmed and fettled at home, briDging bad tidings of the coniu
trft which their imaginatioiis had figured to be iht fairy-land
of wealth. Since that time, thofe who would have gone to
Aaierica, had the profpeft been favourable, have preferred a
home emigration to the fouthem parts of Scotland, particular] j
Glalgow, Paiflej, &c. And from this part of the north, there
is, and alwajs has been, a conftant fiiccelSon of adventurers
iflning forth to the Britifli capital, the Eafi and Weft Indies,
and odier parts of the empire. There are 6 heritors in this ^
parifb. Bj far the greateft part of the people, are employed
in agricnltore*.

TCraie. — There is a viUsge, called £jyr^£*i&/tf^, upon the coaft^
' containing 400 Ibuls, more than two thirds of whom follow a
fea-faring life. Moft of the reft are quarriers and ftone mafons«
Here there are a few fmall boats employed in fifliing, and 7
large boats are hired to the fifliiog on die weft coaft, on board
each of which there are fix people. Five large boats, with
fix people in each, are alfo employed in tranfporting ftones
from the quarries, to different parts of. the country. Two
floops are employed, chiefly in carrying grain to the fouth of
Scotland, and in bringing back coals.

Imports and Exports. — The principal imports are coals,

.moftly from Northumberland ; and merchant goods, chiefly

from London. Our exports are men^ grain, linen yarn, and a

few black cattle. The firft and the laft go chiefly to England,

efpecially to the London market. The grain and yam go to

the fouth of Scotland.

Fijhing.

* The wages of a male labcmrer without viduals, it 8d. per day ; of a fe«
male 4d. In autumn both are higher. When fed by the employer, men fcrvanu ia
kuibandry get from 5 1* to 8 1« ; women fenranu from 3* s. to 40 8. a year.

Fijbing. — There is a good whhe fiihing here ; cod, flutter
ling, gcc. are fold at prefent, from i d. to i \d* the ppimd*
IVe have alfo hoUibut, mackarel^ whitings, feath, See; batak
though there are turbot onthecoaft, our people cannot fiflktbem;
Haddocks have never entirely deferted our coaft, but thejafe at
prefent in fmaller numbers, and in deep water farther from
land: Of confequ^nce, they fell fix times dearer than diey did
lately, being now at the rate of one penny each. They are
larger in fi^e than before. Of late, a lobfter fifliing has been
fet a going in the Moray frith by an Engliih company. On
the ftation, which included the coait of this parifh, and of
Drainie, there were caught lad fummer, and fent to the Looidon
market, 60,000 lobfters. It is faid that no lobiler traps were
ever before feen on this coaft. If this be true, it (hews how
long mechanical inventions are of becoming univerlal. S«
little are the people here accufiomed to mechanical operations^
that after feveral fruitlefs attempts, they have not yet been
able to imitate with fuccefs this fimple invention *•

Propofed Improvement, ^^ht the village of Burgh^head, upon
the weft fide of the promontory, nature has pointed ont a fta-
tion well adapted for a deep, a capacious, and a fafe harbonr.^
The property belongs to Sir Archibald Dunbar; and this gen-
tleman, as well as the country at Isirge, would be much bene«
iited by fuch an eredion. It could be rn^de at a moderate
expence, and with proper precautions, fuccefs would be cer-
tain. When one confiders, that there is not along the whole
fouth coaft of the Moray Frith, from Buchannefs to Invemefs,

(upwarda

* In Sutiftical accounts, the progrefsof mechanical iuTentions, ought not to
be omitted. The benefit of fuch difcoveriea often remains confined to corflers,
becaiife the public ie not made acquainted with them. The improvement of
a plough, a loom, a fpade, a wheel, a lever, &c. as well as of the* more compll*
cated machinery of a fliip, or of a fpinnlng jenny, it it of importance t6 have at
generally, and as quickly known as pofliblc.

59ft StatjfiJcal Account

(upwards of loo miles) one good or (afe hstrbdarf the pro4
prietj of this undertaking appears in a ftroog point of view.
Moft of our prefcnt harbours are at the nioaths of rivers,
which are oonftantlj forming bars and fliallows* At Burgh*
bead, there is no river ; there is fhelter from dangerous winds^
a fine bottom, and water of anjnecelTary depth« Burgh-head is
nearly at an equal diftance from Elgin and Forres ; and if
it had a good harbour, would foon become the port of both
towns. Commerce and manufa&ures would of confcquence
foou vifit this part of the country, and all the various advan*
tages, arifing from them to the public, would quickly follow
fuch an important undertaking*

Churchy Se3aries^ School^ and Poor^'^Thc fiipend !s 8 chal«
^ers of barley, and 22 1. Sterling. Sir Archibald Dunbar is
patron. Till commerce and manufa&ures arrive, to put money
into the purfes of the lower ranks, we cannot ezpeft to fee
that multiplicity of religious opinions, and diverCty of wor«
ffaip, which tnercantile wealth, in a fpecial manner, produces.
We have two or three Antiburghers. A fmall Non-jurant
meeting has exifted in the parifh, ever fince Prefbytery was
ellabliflied. It has been upheld, for many years pail, by a
very fmall number of very poor peafants. Will it be believ-
ed, 200 years henee, that fuch a dcfcription of people had,
during the whole of their lives, been at the expence of a paf-
tor and place of worihip, chiefly that they might clandeJUnely
offer up their prayers for a profcribed race of Kings^ whom
they never faw. Thcfe people are remarkable for their good
neighbourhood, and ChriAian fellowfhip with thofe of the
eftabliihment around them. — The parochial fchool here has
no other falary, than 7 bolls of bear, called Readtt^s Bear*
The number of fcholars may be from 40 to 50, Of all go-
vernments, ours requires moft, that youth be well educated,

and

lad knowledge unlVer&tUj diffufed. la thore appeals to thd
people, which it neceflarilj produces, nothing fo much as a
.competent degree of knowledge can guard againft the effeds of
impofture^ and caneftabliih, from age to age, in the public mind^
a fteady attachment to its free and uneqdalled conftitution.— «
The poor at prefenC amount to 60 ; and' all the public fuppljr
thej have is from the church coUe&ion, which is about 5 s«
each funday : fcantj provifion indeed I We received with gra*
titude our ihate of the bounty in grain, fent to jis, in theye*ar
1783, bjr a wife and humane Legiilature. How ftrange» thut
the fame humane and enlightened policy, which, fayed from
famine many individuals in one feafoo, (hould ihut its eyes for
fo many years, againft the operation of a tax (viz. that on C9ak)i
which, in its effefts, has, every year, embittered the exiftence
of thoufands in the northern parts of Scotland, and, at the fam^
time, has proved an invincible bar to the incrcafe of population
and wealthy by the introdnfiion of manufa^bures* Xhaole
God» that tax is about to be aboliibed*

ffr^/^-.The mofles here are utterly ezhaufted ; and we de«
pend on Northumbctrland chiefly for coals, which coft very
dear. The expence of a private family, fituated at the dif^
ftance of 8 miles from the harbour, and ufing three fires con^^
ftantly, is about 24 L a-^year, including the payment of carriage
from the ihip. When the odious and impolitic tax on this
commodity, at the Red-head, is taken off, then ihall we of tha
. north date the Jirft year of eqwdity^ and t^ rational tapsation*

. Roads^-^We have* no tumpikesi nor is the ftatute labour
commuted. Road*making here isi as yet, but in its firft rudi^
jnents. It feems ftrange, that Ibeietyt all over Europe* (houlA
have perfe&ed (fo far as it appears capable of perfeftion,)
intercourfe by. the watery elemcnti long before general plana
have been any where adopted, for perfefting the internal in«
tercourfe of couQtriesi by rtndermg . good roadl unlverlaL
Vol. VIIL | JD ^Q(M

394 Stati/lical Account

There is now, tiowever, reafon to expefii tbat the control.
which almoft every quarter of this kiogdom at prefect ezhi«
bits, between made roads and unmade, between comfortable
motion, and uncomfortable, between quick and (low jouraeyst
nraft opertite ftrongly and rapidly, in rendering good roadi
Httiverfal ••

Eminent jlfirfr.— Two of * the ableft men, which this part of
Scotland has produced, were both heritors of this parifli ^ Sir
Robert Gordon of Gordonfton, father of the prefent Sir Wil-
liam, and Mr. Gordon of Clunie, father of the prefent Mr,
Baron Gordon. The former gentleman held a feat in the Bri-
tiih Senate ; but it is faid, that, owing to incumbrances upon
ft fortune now remarkably affluent, he was induced in early
life ^o quit a fcene, where, from his fingular eloquence and
profundity of inteUed, nature had fo remarkably fitted him to
fliiae«- It was afterwards the lot of thofe two gentlemen, to
be frequently oppofed to each other in the petty competitions
of private life ; in which they difplayed an ability that mark-
. ed them out to all their co-temporaries, as individuals far fur-
paiGog the common line of human genius. It is not always
the fortune of nations to be able to draw, from the great mafs
of the community, (latefmen of fuch ability as thofe two indi-
viduals poiTefred. They have left no literary memorials, bow-
ever, behind them.

jiintiquities, —In Malcolm IPs reign, the Danes took poffefEon
of Moray. The king beaded an army ageinft them in perlbn,
and was overcome in a pitched battle. ** Upon this,^ lays Bu*
cbaiikni ** the caftle of Nairn was furrendered to them, whick

they

* J^rry, When labourers are in fuch requeft, and farmers fo pinched, by the
litgh wages they muft pay their iervants, why might not the milicary, in peace*
Able tiBiet, be vmployed ia readFoaklng, and other pablic wvrks f

4n <

f>fDuffus. 395

^ tlieyftiionglj fortified, and of a peninfula made an ifle, by cut-
'* ting through a narrow neck of land ; and then they called it
*' by aDanifli name, BurgbJ** All our hiftoriansr are miftaken
in placing this fort at Nairn^ where there never was any fuch
building. But, in this pariihf the peninfula above mentionol
is fituated ; and upon it, there are large remains of a regular
fortification. The cut made to infula^e the promontory is yet
vifible, but now dry and nearly filled up. The place ftill re-
tains its DaniQi namei being generally called by the commoa
people Burgb^ and fometimes called and written Burgh^brnd.
2*. After Malcolm had overcome the Danes, under Camus, in
the battle of Panbride, in Angus, Camus, with his remaining .
troops, auempted to retreat to Moray, by the mountains, but
was overtaken, routed, and flain. There is an obeltlk ftand-
ing at the weft end of the pari(h, conje&ured to bg the obeliflc
which, hiftorians fay, was erected for this vidory ; and near
this monument, there is a village called Kaioif which is fup-
poied to be the village mentioned by Buchanan, as retaining
the memorable name of Camus. 3. Upon the north-welt
border of the lake of Spiney, there are ftanding upon an ar-
tificial mound, furrounded with a fofiee and draw-bridge, the
walls of a llrong caftle, called Old Dujiis. It is known to be
of great. antiquity ; but at what precife time it was built, or
who were the original proprietors, cannot be traced with any
degree of certainty. It is furrounded with orchards and fo-
reft trees, and, Handing in the heart of a charming plain, pre-
fents, at every point of view, one of the moft pidurefque and '
beantifol objefts which the country exhibits. 4. At the vil-
lage of Duffus there is a fquare, (in the centre of Vchich the
church is placed)^ furrounded by four (Ireets regularly paved,
the workmanlhip of Oliver CromwelP* [oldltxst*

3 D a Dtfadvantages.

\ Had it not "bttn for fwelllng the StatiiUcal work too ninch,to have allow;.
€4 a corner in it, for a fcledion of fuch epitaph* ai are curioas^^wonid have fur*

39^ Statiflical Accounii

Dif advantages. ^'''^mk^ principal of thefe, are t^e diftanee from^
mills, and a ievere miU tbirlage, — ^idlends, — ^little atteatioti
to induftiy,— a want of maau&dures, — a want of general-

ikiU

idflied a ploafant mor^l to reaAtn of a certain tafte. The following epiupk
it loond on the tomb-done of a flulor in the chorcb-yard of Dofius,

^ Though Eoki' Mails, and Keptune*8 waves, have to&'d me to and fro,
' * Tet now at laft> by heaven's decree, I UrUw here below :

" Where at an miA^r Ida iy^ with others of onr fleet,
** .TiQ the laft tnmip do raife as op, oar AAmral CauiT to meet.*!

The Gaefiois not fpoken on the coaftof Morayihire. We fpeak the Englifh '
mixed with a large portion of provincial dialed. Our accent is, in the ear of a *
^nger, fnapplfli and provoking, affimihting to that of Aberdeen, but is iaid not'
to be quite io invincible a« theirs, to thole who kave the coontry. It is more difa**
igi^eable and moro difficult to overcome, than the accent of our wefUm ndgb* .
boors of InvemA; befides, that they have an advantage over ns in ufing none
but modem Engliih words. The remark, which ilrangers make of us, that we
ftiem unwilling to open our months when we fpeak, is fully confirmed, by find- '
ing that of the X 6 vocal articulate founds which compofe the Engliih laoguagCi we .
htfrt tomlly thrown out in ooV dialed the two iuUeil and moft fonorpua, and
hive fubfiituted Ihort and flender (bunds in their place. No Morayflure man of
the bwer rankfever pronounces broad «,or long o ; for the firft he always ufes the
(bort and flender found of tf, %mU fer law, ApiJI for Auguft, il I't all ; for the'
kft'he always ufes Ukewife the fliort and flender founds of o, as, cEk for dofe,
rM for road and rode, mSi for note, >-A for rOte, «^ for no, dXek for choke, »
flffl for ppfiy This peculiarity is the more remarkable, becaafe, although thefe
two full founds of a and #, are very prevalent in England, yet they are flill much
mAse fo in the fouth of Scotland ; infomuch that the more freq^nt ufe of them,
is^that, which (next to the North Britifli accent) mofl readily diilinguiflies the
latkguage of a fonth country Scotchman of education, fimm. the language of
Enjgland. And perhaps, from this circumflance, we have received our national .
nlck-oamc, in the broad found of Sswmuy, But, although ^fliion is now begin-^
S^g to force upon our middling ranks here, thofe two full founds, yet they feel,
in, the endeavour to pronounce them, nearly the fame difficult) , that would at-i
tend the introdudion of founds altogether foreign. Our diflike to full fouuds,
alfi) appears in our preference of the flender ^, which in the language of the
|)orth, ufurps occafionally the place of almoft every other vowel, as aem for
^i.9Bjfetif Ibr fj^oon^rca [ot (naX,yetiior jvlc^mtedovf for ffi9adow,/»i/rfoi|: titlcg

•fDufus; ' 39^

fluU^ agricolture,— -a perplexing and iocoiiTenieiit Tarietyof
weights and meafures, — want of fuel, attended with lofs of
health and lives among the poor» — ^frequent celibacy, or late
marriages, occafioned bjr poverty and depreffion, — an oppreC-
five coal-tax,— and an. inconvenient diilance from a Cuftom«
boufe, being 40 miles from Invern^fs, which is the ncareft*

Advantages. — The principal are, a fea-coafl,->-a good foil,.^
a good people,-- >and a good climate. Whether what hiftori*
ans remark,'bf our having in the plains of Moray^ about 40
days more of dry weather through the year, than in any other
part of Scotland, be precifely accurate, has never' been afcer*^
tained.

CbaraSer and Maimers. — Society in this country is as yet
chiefly divided into high and law. The latter clals, though

poor

Hfi for vk^ftmd for poindi^ &c. Our people fnbilltute the fotmd 9ii tcr w1^'
zs/at for vrhatffiteh ibr which, ftc. Thej pronounce foch words tmJUdyJj/id,
wia, xoiieBt &c. ts if fpelt /idtiy, fifiai, vmU^/utth, &c: Thqr fttpprefs r in %
focd man7 wordt, as^ for firft, brfs for horfe,/i^ for piufe» &c. This if the',
ipore remarkable, as in geoend the Scotch pnmovnce this letter mnch niora>
forcibly than the Eoglilh do. The gttttttiids,f6 and ch^ are more fire^oently.pro*
nounced here, than in the fouth of Scotland. The Scotch and French «, which It
nerer heard In England, though not in fo frequent ufe here as in the foath el
Scotland, is notwithftanding fo prevalent as to have the name of this vowel ex*
preiTed in that fouffd : . as is aUb the cafe in the reft of Scotland. Here w ind
V are founded forcme another; but this is alfo the cafe among the illiterate im
other parts of Britain. ' The French «, refembling the T^iAm found, and im
frequent at Edinburgh and the neighbouring countries, never found its way tio
the north. It was imported by the Scotch court from France. The Scotch diphthong .
«*', we ufe as frequently as in other parts' of Scotland; for inftead of prooonncing
the Eogliih i in lifitjirtft^ &c. we pronounce thofe words as at Edinburgh ;
laftjlrrijtkneif^ &c. The found of (hort Engliih i, as in ftt^U^^ &c is never :
afed in our dialed. Its fubftitute is a found approaching nearer to the ihort
Engliih r, than to the ihort Engliih i, as if fpelt, ^tfiip^f ihisbowevo it
comnea to ear lower ranks, with the reft of Scotland*

59^ Statiftical Acdmsnt

poor and deprcfled, are not querulous, but peaceably and well
dKfpofed. The bigher ranks ftill retain, comparativtly, a confi-
<erable portion of the manners of the old barons. In fome
iniUnccs, tbofe peculiarities of behaviour are apparent, which
an cxcluiion from the public ejc, and a remote fituation, are
ready to produce. Se that we are reminded, at times, of the
semark of a celebrated dramatift : " In the cities and popa-
•* lous parts of the empire, there prerails fnch a uniformity of
^ lerel manners, that I have been obliged to beat about amongft
* the out*ikirts of the country, for charaders, at once natural
•• and ^«^«&r, with which to fill my drama.'* Our middle
nsks, compared with thofe of other countries, are yet incon*
fiderable. They are not fully occupied with bufinefs, — ^have
no ftile of manners appropriated to their ftation, — but are
fend of the company and manners of their fuperiors, and con«
Yeife more frequently, than is done ia other places, about
snodcs and fafluons in drefs and manners* A fuperior degree
cijbrewdnefs^ has been commonly affixed to the charafier of a
north-country man, which is well expreifed in the common
adage, ** you are too far north for me." The remark is more
applicable to our neighbours of the Aberdeen and Invernefa
diftrifts, than to as ; compared to them, we, in Morayihire,;
are a blunt and plain people. Our people are as yet fober, and
Kttle addi^ed to the intemperate ufe of fpirits. The fuppref-
lion of fmuggling, fo happily efieded of late by the vigilance
of government, has bani&ed foreign liquors, and introduced
yery generally the ufe of whiJky of our own diftilling, which
h both wholefomer and cheaper. Beer, however, is ftill too
little ufcd, for which whiiky is a moft improper fubftitute*
It is fubmitted, whether the price of this unneceiDiry article
ought not to be kept fo high, as, if poiIible,to prevent it from
being in too freqtient ufe among the loweft ranks. Diflike
for diverfity in religious opinions^ and modes of worlhip, to-
gether

ofpuffus. ^^

gethcr with the illiberal prejudices refpeding Highlander ui4
LovjlandiTt h^ve greatlj ce»£ed amongft the people. T\^
became FrefbTterians more from accident than from temper^
During the alternations of Preibytcty and Epifcopacy, wbidi-
took place after the Reformation, the; did not at all difcovcr
that decided preference to ^refbyterj, which mailed the wc(»
tern and Ibuthem counties. Had not their fentiments beea
keener than ours on this point, our ifland would probabllj «C
prefent have had but one national church. At the Revol«»
tion, few of the clergy of this province conformed to Prefli/^
tttjf but availed themfelves of the indulgence which the go*
vcmment gave, of allowing them %o remain in their benefices
for life, upon qualifying to the civil government. And in
order to cheriih Prefbjterj, it was neceflary, from time to
time, to fend clergy from the fouth country to ferve the cure.
That horror at the name oi holidays^ which was once a cha*
lafteriftic of the Puritans, and true blue Prefbyterians, never
took pofleiEon of our common people here : and they dill ce*
lebrate (perhaps without ever thinking of the origin of the
pradice), St. John^s day, St. StepbttCi . day, Cbrifimas day«
&c. by affembling in large companies to play at foot-ball, and
to dance and make merry. It is among the marks of an iai«
proving country, to find all the different ranks of fociety en*
larging their fphere of motion. The higher ranks roam chie£.
ly for amufement, and from curioiity ; the lower move prioci*
pally with a view to bufinefs and gain. In both cafes, the coa«>
fequences are beneficial to the diftrid to which they belongs
by giving rife to a wider comparifon of obje&s and ufagea.
The common people reiident in Scotland every where, at pre>«
fent, move more from their native fpot than formerly. In the
time of our grand-fathers, fewer of the commonality crofled
the Spey or the Findhorn, (the two rivers bounding the coun*
try)i than now vifit dillant counties and towns, and even fo«

reig«

\o6 Stati/lical 'Account

feign regions. The improTement derived from t&is change^
is here, as yet, bat beginning to be felt. The dre{s is what is
common in the low conntries. The women* among the com<*
flMm people, come abroad to church and fair, without caps or
bonnets on their heads ; and, inftead'of cloaks or mantles, are
often dreffed in ftriped blankets ; fuch as are ufed for beds.
The laft' particularly ftrikes and offends the eye of a ftranger.
An Eogliih woman, who came among us lately, fiud, this drels
always put her in mind of M*BeCh's witches at Drury-Lane.
Simames are here more numerous, in proportion to the popnla*
tion, than in the Highlands, but lels numerous than in the
ibuthem diftri6ts of Britain.

NUMBER

^Bwaibamy^ 4«f

NUMBER XXIir«

PARISH OF DUMBARNY^

4^mty and Prfjbyttry of Birth.^Sj^noi ofP^rtb md Stirm
Jfj^^ii R^. Mr. David Beatsov^

Extent f SUuatum^ and ProfpeS.

THE paiilh of Dambarnj extends in length about 4 Ea«
glifh miles, and in breadth about 3. It is the moft
beautiful part of Stratheam } inclofed» as it were, on the fouth
by the Ochill hills, pa the north bjr tlie hill of Mordun or
Moncrieff, on the weft by rifing grounds, interfeded by the
river Earn in Tarions windings ; the flat and rifiog grounds
being adorned with planting, beltings, avenues, and hedge*
rows. The great road, running acrofs the parifh, and the fl9opa
under fail on the river, with gentlemen's feats interfperfed^
form a moft delightful landfcape* The view from the top
jif Jdordun is eztenfive, various, and grand* The ingenioua
Vw. VIII. 3 E Mr.

4Q2 Statijlical Account

Mr. Pennant, on account of the richnefs and variety of thtf
profped, calls it ^* the glory o/'Spotland."

JttvfT, F|^,tf«ifirid[y*.— The river Earn, which runs through
the parilh, has its fource in the loch of that name, and joins
the Tay about 3 Englifb miles below the bridge. The tide
^ows about a miles above the bridge ; but the water is not
fait. Sloops, from 30 to 50 tons burden, with lime and coals,
come to the bridge \ and, bj a little attention, the country
might, by the fame navigation, be fupplied with wood, iron,
|nd other articles of foreign compnerce. Salmoni trout, pike,
and fome perch, are found in the river ; and the proprie^
tors, on each fide of it, haye falmon fiTnings, which ace of no
great vaiue. The bridge over the Earn is fuppofed to be of
great antiquity. It is kept in repair by the town of Perth,
for which the town has always had a cuflom or toll ; but thia
is far from being an adequate fund, confideriog the great fumg
that have been expended in repairs,

5bi/| CuUivatian, &c.— The foil of this parifh Is various.
Clay, till, loam, and fome light land, are found. The pre*
fept fertility of the land is, in a great meafure, owing to the ef*
feds of lime, which is a powerful and fuccefsful manure,
efpecially on the clay land. They lay from 40 to 60 bolls
of (hells, or unpacked lime, on the acre. Summer fallow is a
good deal in uCe -, but the culture of turnips is little attende4
to. The foil in general, being ftrong, is not eafily pulverized, to
inake it fit for that crop; befides which, th^ ploughing b fole-
ly performed by horfes.

jR/ii/i.— The rents in general, are from xL xei. to iL t^u

^d. fer acre. The T^luatioa 0/ the parifii of Dumbamy, ia

th,i

ofDumbdfny. 4OJ

the ttU tooksi including the lands annexed to Dron, quoad
jfaeray amounts to 63101. 4s. xod. Scotch.

Po^si£i/Mif.-^Tbe tncreafe of populatioii in this parilh ift
f 617 great. The prefeflt iacttmbent was' fettled in the year

The number of ibuUi at that time, trat Aboni ^ i. 6o()

In the year 1774* it rofe to - * i^ ^ xoa0

And in this year, 179I9 it amounts to * « 1250

Whidiy in the period of 33 yeats, is an increafis of - 650
The. increafe, within thefe 40 years, however^ is only 486
The return to Doftor Webfter, in the year 17559 being 764

This increafe is not occafioncd by the eftablifhing of
iaanufadures, as there ate none in the parilh ; but is owing to
« philanthropic plan, adopted by fome of the proprietors, of
letting out a confiderable part of their lands in fmall poflef-
Sons. And there is a probabilityi that the pariih may ftill in-<
lireafe, as a riilage is ereding at the bridge of Karn, which^
from its fituation, promifes in time to become confiderable.
The following is a lift of marriages^ Sec. for the laft eleycQ
years.

LiiT of Marriages, Baptifma, and Burials, for eleren years :

Years.

Marriagts.

Baptifins.

Burials*

I78»

X7t3

^784

«4

1785

•X

3»

J 786

t^%^

17SS

1789

i7fO

i79X

X79»

a75

J95

r 9

»7i

»9i

Church.

/fpj^ Statlfiieal Aceounf

Cburcb^'^Tht cburch^ and manfe were origioally fitratol!
ct the extremity of the pariOi, to the weft ; which being verf
inconiinodioas, they were, in the year 1689, built near the bridge*
#f Earn, and are now about the centre of the parifli. The pa^
riOiioners ftill continve to occupy the old burying ground 1
and none bury in the ground about the prefent church. There
was formeri^ a chapd at Moncriefft a^nd a church at Riikpot*
tici both appendages of the church at Dumbamy. The for-»
ner .is now the burying- pbce of the family of Mencrieff, the
latter is long fince in ruins : and the eftate of Kirkpottie, and
other lands, belonging to the pariih of Dumbamy, were, in
the year 1653, annexed, quoad facra^ to the pariih of Dron>
being at a great diftance from the church of Dumbamy. The
Magiftrates and Town Council of Edinburgh are patrons tA
the church, and titulars of the teinds of theparifhof Dumbar^^
ny. The miniiler*s fiipend is 814 merks Scotch, in money,,
and the vicarage teind, 4 chalders of vi&ual^ whereof there-
are 40 bolls of meal, and 14 of bear, b^des . 40 L Scotch for.
communion elements*'

Harmonious Settbmetas.^-^n this parifh, there are companu»
tively few diffenters. The inhabitants have always diftin-
guilhed themfelves by a (Irong attichment to the Eftabliflied^
Church, and by an uncommon harmony at the fettlement of
their miniders. This harmony has,, in a great meafure, pro-
ceeded from the moderation and good fenfe of the patrons,
who have always exercifcd their right, in a way that was
agreeable to the heritors \ and they,' on the other hand, have
unitormly confulted the peace of th&pariij9, in their applica-
tions to the patrons ; an example to other patrons and he«
citors, well worthy of imitation. By fuch moderation, the
fettlement of mod parifhes would be peaceable ;'an objed cer--
tainly of great confe^uence to the intejreils of re^'gion9 the be-
nefit

ifDu\nhdrnyi \ 40^

ie£t 6£ landlords^ the comfort t>f pariihionerSy and the io^
creafe of ibe funds of the poor*

&£oo/.-— The fchooUmafter has a legal falary of 200 merks
^otch^ which, with about three quarters of an acre of land,
and other emoluments^ wiU anounfe to about 30L Sterling
yearly.

Pipiiaiify Weds^-^The mineral waters of Pitkeathly, whic&
have long been famed for their efficacy in curing or alleviating
the fcrophula, fcurvey, gravely &c. are fituated in this parifHl
This mineral is gentle in its> operation, has an agreeable' eftft
in relieving the ftomach of crudities, procuring an appetite,
and exhilarating the fpirits ; and, inftead of weakening, tends
to ftrengthen the conftitution. The water is of a cooling qua-
lity, and very efficacious in removing all heat and foulnefs o£
the blood. It is ufed both for drinking and bathing. In
fome cafes the warm bath has the mod falutary effed, efpe*
cially in fcrophulous and fcorbotic complaints, but ihould be
ufed with caution, as it tends to weaken, if made too warm^<
or ufed too frequently. The time, when this mineral was dif-
tovered, cannot be afcertained with certainty : even tradition
fiiys nothing of its firft difcovery. There are five diAind:
iprings, all of the fame quality, but of different degrees of
ftrength. In the year l^^l, fome experiments were made on-
one of the mineral fprings, by Dodor Dokald- Monro of
London, vfhich, in 1772, together with a letter from the late
Bofior Wood of Perth, on the fame fubjefi, were publiihed
in the LXII. volume of the Philofophical Tranfadions. This
year,(i792,)Meirrs. Stoddart and Mitchel, druggifts in Perth,
have, with much attention and accuracy, analized the f(a^«
ral fprings. The following table, is the refult of their re-
peated experiments*

4ol

Smifiicat Jcieuni

A TaBlb, fliewio|r the coDtentt, io m wine gal1«ik, of ^idi 0^ tbt iXsabA
Witen, belonging to tbe eftatet of Pitkbatblt and Dumbaeht.

Contents of the Wsten,

taft

Weft.

Spout

Dunbar-

S.Park

UamesoCtlieWsten;

WelL

Well

WeU.

njrWelL

WelL

Atmofpheric air,

Cnkfaei.

Carbonic acid f^as.

Ditto.

C^arbonat of lime.

Grains.

i^olphatoflinie,

Ditto.

Moriat of foda.

lOO

9»

Ditto.

Vfuriatof lime,
-Specific gravity of a gal- p

x8«

168

zoa

Ditt«.

Ion of each more than V

BX6

198

11%

104

DittB.

dUlilkd water. >

I '

mitustti

^Kilnu^^ « ^ f^f

NUMBER xxnr.

fARISU OF K^ILMALIE,

(Counties oflnveme/s andJrgyU.^^PriJhytn'yofAkriarflb.n
SynodiifGlenilg.)

fy the RtV» Mr« AuXAKBER Fra9£^ Min\fter fffthi^
farijb^

Origin of the Name*

FROM the Gaelic, a branch of the Celtic laogttiage, are do*
rived the names of pbces, not onlj among the mountains
of Caledonia, but in the more campaign counties of Scotland*
iTiV fignifies a burying place j and Malie muft have been a pcrfofi
eminent for pietj, or for fome other extraordinary quality^
who probably was the firft that had been interred in that particular
place, whence the parifii receives its name. This is the mosa
probable, as it is well known, that, wherever Popery prevail-
ed, its partilans were wont to dedicate their churches^ and Um
cred grounds, to fome canonifed faint* And* as a farther evi«
dence, even the modem Highlanders, when their veracity is
fufpeded,* wUl nfe the following phrafe : ^* wfir Maiie tha^^*
i. f • ^ I fwcar, or 4«clare| by Maiie^ that it is w I i^7*'*

Yet

4oS 8tati/Kcal Aaemnt

yet thej feldom give themfelves the trouble to trace the cAm
gin of the expreffion. As to the timey wbereia this MaUf
HoQriibed, tradition it filcDt,

SituaU^H and Extent. — ^A part of the parifli lies in ArgylU
Aire, but the greateft part of -it is in the couhtjr of in^erncfs.
Seing interfered io three different pkoes, bj as manj arms of
the fea, the parifli is of an irregolar form. The lengthf from
K. W. to S. £., is about 60 miles in a ftra^ight Kne. The
greateft breadlh, from N. £• to S. W.» is 30 miles in a line.
It comprehends about 589 fquare miles, or nearlj 376,96^
£ngli(b acres, meafnring in ftraigbt line9» And« addin|^ the
furface of the hills and vallies, it mnft be, at leaft, one thii4
more. An account of fuch an extenfive parifli majj to the na^
fives of the low comitrjr, appear romantic.

Surface t Soilt and Ciimate^^^The greateft part of the parifli coa*
£fts of high grounds ; and, as the heaths yield excellent grafa,
it is well calculated for flieep* There are, however, many vaU
lies, of various extent and quall^. Upon the banks of the
rivers Locby imd Nevis, and in feveial other places, there ia
a good deal of arable ground, of difFereot qualities : the (oil,
in general, is fliallow and fandj^ The climate cannot be rec-
koned unwholefome^ for feveral have lived to an advanced
age ; jet the air is molft^ for the wipd blows off the fea near-
ly two-thirds of the year. This accounts for the almoft in-
ceftant rains which prevail ; not only here, but in all other
places on the Weft Coaft of Scotland. Here, extreme cold is,
never known ; and it is remarkably warm clofe to the flioreS|
where (how feldom lies above 14 hours.

Dtfeafes.f<^o the dampnefs of the aif , may, no doub^, be
attributed the frequency of the rheumatilxn} which u the dif-

if^KUmaiie. 411

Joly, are the principal months for falmon ; — ^Jaly, Auguft,
aftd *Septembery for white trouts and finnacks,— November,
for char,' — and Apri), for yellow troats. Any falmon, that are
fold hi the parifh, fetch 3d.y and fometimes 4d. per lib., and
white trouts ad. The fifliing, upon the property of Mr.
McLean of Ardgour, is worth 20 1. annually. But the prin-
cipal fifhing is upon the Lochy, the property of the Duke of
Gordon, and of Mr. Cameron of Locheile. The following ta«
ble will ihow the number of fi(h caught upon it, during the
lad 7 years, their prices at Fort- William, and the markets to
which they were exported.

Years.

SalmoB.

GriUe.

Price of each calk.

Markeu.

1785

3678

976

L.5 % 0

Aberdeen.

17S6

1036

3899

4 13 6

Oftcnd by Aberdeen.

1787

5*79

819

410

Bilboa.

z;88

1498

M>3»

3 10 0

Ofttnd by Aberdeen.

1789

Z260

835

300

Aberdeen.

1790

XO41

830

300

Oftend by Greenock.

179X

57«

1200

3 » 6

Aberdeen.

Z5368 10591 L.26 9 o

Each caik contains about 80 grilfe, or a8 falmon and 8
grilfe, or thereabouts. The price of each caik, including fair,
cooperage, &c. cofts 13 s. The rent of the river, and ex-
pences attending the fi(hing, are about 370 1. a-year. The
average of thofe 7 years, is 21954- falmon, and 1513 grilfe,
equal to 92 barrels ; which, at the medium price of
3I. 16 s. 8d., are worth only 352 1. 13 s. 4 d. ; whereas the
rent and expences, as dated, are 3701. per annum. It is,
however, to be obfer^ed, that it is only within thefe three laft
years, that the river has been rented fo high ; and likewife, that
the rent of a farm, worth, at leaft, 50 L per annum^ is includ-
ed in the 370 1. Every year fince X787, there has been a

3 F great

4 1 ft Stati/iical Acceunt

great decreafe in the number of fiih caught ; which muft pr<w
ceed from fome inattention in preferring the falmon frj. The
cruiving of the river» it is thought, b the chief caufe, as the filh
are thereby prevented from going to the frefh-water lakes to
fpawn. In all the lakes in the north of Scotland, which run
to the eaft, pikes are to be found, but in none that run to the
wellern fea, at lead in the Highlands.

Coqfi. — One of the greateft advantages of the pariih, is the
vaft extent of fea-ihore it has ; which, computing on both
fides of Locheile, on the north of Lochleven, and a part of
both fides of Linge-Hilloch, amounts to about 70 miles,-—
mod of which is rocky and high. The lands. In fome places,
rife gradually many yards above the level of the fea, and are
excellent pafturage for fiieep, or horfes. There is but little
kelp made in the pariib, becaufe it is moflly the property of
the landlords : and the tenants cut the fea ware, for manuring
the ground, the quantity of dung they have being infuiHcient
for that purpofe. In fome places, the tides run with amazing
violence and rapidity. There are four very ftrong currents,—
at Annat, Corran, Ballachulifh, and Culifnagon. * The lands,
on both fides of Locheile, being fo high, occafion frequent fud-
den fqualls, which have fometimes proved dangerous. Seve-
ral have been drowned, of late years, in the parifb.

Sea Fijb and Fowls^ — Herrings are the fifh . that abound
mofi, and that are of the greateft benefit. They generally en-
ter the parifh in the month of July, and continue in feafon,
provided the weather does not prove very ftormy, till Novem-
ber. They are not equally numerous every year. The peo-
ple of Fort- William, (where the greateft number of boats are,)
reckon that a good fifiiing-feafon, in which they catch about
aooo barrels : laft year ^1791) there were about 3000 caught;

whicb

ofKilmalie. 409

cftfe that prevails moft in the pariih ; and, fince people have
ceafed to wear flannel ihirts, it is become much more gene-
ral. The prejudices, entertained by the inhabitants of this
pariih againft inoculation, were, for a long time, invincible.
But the better fort, fetting the example, thp reft gradually
followed : — for we are fond to imitate our fuperiors. Yet
there are fome who ftill fay, " That, to inoculate for the
•* fmall-pox, is to tempt Providence^* In one feafon, 460
were inoculated, of whom only 3 died ; and their death the
furgeon imputed to their being in a bad habit of body. Fe-
vers of the epidemical kind are very frequent. Of late years,
the dropfy is become pretty common, particularly among
the poorer fort of people. This is afcribed to their feeding
fo much upon potatoes, which is now become a fubftitute for
meal. The jaundice and the ftone are almoft unknown here :
the former appears ofteneft, however, but the ague has never
yet invaded the pariih. The itebf which has been imputed^
as a difgrace, to this quarter of the ifland, is but rarely feen
now, even among the loweft clafles of the people. This,
doubtlefs, is owing to their living in a more cleanly manner
than their forefathers. But this diftemper is not peculiar to
a Highlander,— -nor to a Scotch-man. It is a plant which
grows in countries fouth of the Tweed, elfe there would be
no word to ezprefs it in the Englijb tongue ; and it is well
kncAvn to have been one of the plagues incident to U^e £•
gyptians * f-
Vol. VIII. 3 F Lakes

* Dent, xzriii. %^•

f It IS a common praAice for people to go hence to the low conntriefy in
tune of harveft, and return again in tike beginning of winter. Within thefe
■very few yeart , a woman of this defcription came home, infeded with a difor*
der that is a difgrace to human nature. Her father, who had been a ftranger
i9 the Datar« of her complaint, fpoke to the incumbent abont heri«-«nd opoa

41 o Statifiical Account

Lakes and Rivers. — Loch-Arcbaig, which is i6 miles long^
aod one broad, is the onlj frefh-water lake, io the parifli, of
anj confequeoce. From it flows the Riyer Aichaig, wbich^
after raoning about a mile, difcharges itfelf iote LochJochj.
This lake is partlj in the parilh, and is the fountain of the
riyer Lochj ; which, near its found, joins the river of Spiaa,
and thus lofes its name* Spiao, mot through the pariih cf
Kilmaniyaig. Thcfe lakes are verj deep : there are fome
others of inferior iize. The length of the river Lochj is
about IO miles ; and the medium breadth, about 200 feet. It
is fordable in many places ; yet, ezoeptiug at Torecafile, fmall
hoats are ibmetimes rowed up to its fountain. It difgorges it«
felf into the fea« near Fort- William, with fuch rapidity and
force, that it preferves its dreams entire, for a long way, with-
out any gnat mixture or tafte of fait water. No other
ftream, in the pariih, merits the appellation of river. Nevis,
indeed, after great falls of rain, and when the fnow is <ii£.
folving upen Benevist and the furrounding hills, fwells to a
great height ; but, in dry weather, it is no more than an in-
confiderable rivulet. After performing a circuit of about 10
miles, and forcing its paflage betwixt rocks and mountains, it
fweeps along the walls of the garrifon of Fort- William, and
then refigns its waters tp the ocean*

Fre/B'JVater Fiflf. ^^In tbofc rivet s^ and in fome of the lakes,
there are falmon, finnacks, white, black, and yellow trouts.
Even the lefler lakes, in the hills, abound with fine yellowtronts;
and in fome of them there are a few cian May, June, and

}ki0 inqQiriBg what her difeafe mm, anfiirercd, *< I am endtelj ipnumaft of it(-^
^ it if fuch as 1 never heard of ; neither did yon, 1 am perfuaded^ — ^It itfom*
•• ^nv-cMM/ry dl/order,**'^U cannot be denied, however, bnt that the anny hav«
freqnently introdttced this fame UofifiimakU diioiie, into Fott-Wittain f«4 i|»
nei^hbpnrhoodf

efKihnaiiCm 4,15

joo fee tke fmall iflesi particularly Rum and Canna, and the
Sound that feparates them from Skj, and beyond all
thefe, the CuUin hills, which form the weft part of Skj it-
felf. Here the profpe£l to the eaft is whoUj obftruded bj
the upper part of the mountain. But ftill every part of Loch-
eile can be eafilj obferved» over which the whole horizon is
furprifingly equal. One uninterrupted, range of hills, which
rife, one behind another, prefents no particular obje& worth
diftinguiihing.

From the altitude of 600, or 700 yards, upward, there is
no yegetation at all, but merely rocks< and ftony parts, with-
out even a mixture of earth. Thefe parts are called Scar^
nacbi. — They are quite flat, and may be walked over with-^
out any detriment :— -Upon entering into them, fome excel*
lent fprings of water are to be found* Here one is deceived
with the appearance of a high part, which feems to be the
top of the hill. The deception returns, and is repeated
twice or thrice before you reach the fummit, which is flat^
and bears fome refemblance to the fegment of an arch, held
iu a horizontal pofition* The left fide appears to be the
higheft : Hence you walk, with eale, over the flat weather^i
beaten ftonesy that lie clofe to each other, with a gentle de«i
clivity, and form an eafy pavement to the foot.— You now
come, all at once, to the brink of a precipice on the north-
ead oi the mountain, almofl perpendicular \ — certainly not
lefs than 40c, or 500 yards, — ^perhaps more, as it appears to
exceed the third part of the whole height of the hill. A
flranger is aftoniibed at the fight of this dreadful rock, which
has a quantity of fnow, lodged in its bofom, through the
whole year. The found of a ftone, thrown over the clift, to
the bottom, cannot be heard, when it falls ; fo that the height
pf the precipice cannot be afcertained by that eafy experi-

Looking

41 6 Statifiical Account

Looking to the eaft, Loch-Laggan appears, and to tlie
fouth-eafty Loch-Ranoocb in Perthfhire. But Loch-Taj,
being covered bj the land, cannot be £een ; nor Loch-Er-
racht. If 70a have a good map in company, lay it here, in
a hori»)ntal pofition, and, placing jour eje on that part of
it, where Benevis is delineated ; turn it, till the natural po-
lition of Loch-Rannoch coincides with its image on the map,
and you will then have before your eye a true reprefentation
of the objefts in view. In this manner, you will be able to
difcover the names of thofe high mountains, which rife above
the reft ; viz. Crouchan Bhane, near Bunaw in Glenorchay ;— -
Shichallion, Ben-More, and Ben-La wers, in Perthfhire, Bhillaa
in Glenco, Ben- More, in the ifland of Mull ; Benuais, and
other hills in Rofsfhire. The whole of the great glen of
Scotland, from Fort-George, to the found of Mull, is, at once,
in view ; comprehending the frelh water lakes of Nefs, Oich,
and Lochy, and all the courfe of the two rivers Nefs and Lo-
chy, from their fource, to the place where they enter into the
fait water, running in oppofite diredions, the one north-ealt,
and the other fouth-weft. The extent of view, on the hori.
zon of the fea, is about 8o miles. One fees at once, acrofs
the ifland, eaftward, to the German Sea, and weftward, to the
Atlantic Ocean.

Nature, here, appears on a majellic fcale ; and the vail*
nefs of the profped engages one's whole attention. Particu-
lar objeds are but few in number, and they of no common
dimen&ons ; elfe the eye would entirely overlook them. Such
are thofe high mountains already enumerated ; which rife
with fublime afped over the other hills. But you are in«
flantly fenlible, that none of them is elevated fo high as the
fpot on which you ftand.

Juft over the opening of the found, at the fouth-weft cor-
ner of Mull, Colunfa rifes out of the fea, like a fhade of mift,
at the diftance of more than 90 miles. Shuna and Lilxnore,

are

ofKUmalie. j^ix

tvhich proved a feafonable relief to maoj indigent families.
There are red cod, lythe, feath, ikate, flounders, mackarels,
"wrhitings *, and a few haddocks. If the weather be moderate,
lythes and feaths may be filhed every day of the year. Their
prices vary, according to their fizes, from ad. to jd. the do«
zen. They are killed with fmall rods, and a hook, having a
feather, refembling one of the herring fry. Cod, ikatc, and
flounder, are caught with long lines, and baits of herring, or
of mufcles. There are a great many eels and fturgeons.
Seals, and porpoifes, and other fea animals, are frequently feen
to chace the falmon, and whales, the herrings. Laft harveft,
three whales appeared in Locheile, of a great fize : one of them
feemed to meafure about 600 feet. The fame feafon, a ihark,
3 years old, came afhore. That fpecies of fhark, called the
dog-fifli, is very numerous.

The fea fowls are, gulls, herons, cormorants, curlews,
ducks, teals, pies, marrots, folon geefe, eagles, and many
others. Of the migratory kind, are the pi&arnies and wid-
geons. The laft appear in the latter end of harveft, or early
in winter, and take their paflage to fome other feas in fpring.
The former arrive in the beginning of May.

Hills — Are numerous in the parifli, and moftly clothed
with rich heath, and a mixture of grafs, to the very fum«
mit. They are alfo of confiderable height, but the moft re-
markable* is Bene vis, which is an objed that attrads the

attentioa

* Lord Lyttleton, in hit journey into Wsdes, fays : <* But what Bala is moft
^ famous fo^, is the beauty of its women : and, indeed, I tiiere faw fome of the
^ prettieft girls, I ever beheld.— The hke produces very fine tronts, and a fiih
^ called whiting, peculiar to itfelf, and of fo delicate a tafte, that, I believe, yov
<* would prefer the flaTonr of it to the lips of the fair maids of Bala." A Aar«-
fry man might, but,furely, an amorous lover would not Whether the whiting,
of the lake of Bah, be the fttne with the whiting of our iS»% i« oaoertain ; bvc
thde haTt a fwect flaToar, and are a dcUciooi ffloricL

414 S/ati/Hcal Account

attention of all coriom travellers. Being the fatgheft moun-
tain in Great Britain, it certainly defcrves a pardeidar de-
fcription.

Beneviu — ^This mountain is 4370 feet high.^ — ^It is eafilj
afcendedy bj a ridge of the mountatn, towards the weft,
about a quarter of a mile up the river Nevis, from the hoofe
where the proprietor refides. There is good pafture ferfiieep,
here, as well as on the furrounding hills, for a great way up.
The view is entirely confined within Glenevis hill, till jou
have got up about 500 yards perpendicular. Indeed, the
valley, though confined, prefents an agreeaUe proTped. The
Villa is beautified with a diverfity of boflies, flirubs, and
birch woods, the feats of roes and deer, befides many love-
ly fpots of green; a decent, neat, rural manfion, encircled
by a yOung flourifl^ing plantation ; a river at ^e bottom
of the vale, which, aftar being broken by a heap of
mis-lbapen (tones, glides away in a dear 11 ream ^ and, wan-
dering through woods, vales, and rocks, lofes itfelf in the
fea. To heighten the pleafore of the charming view, the fea
and the fhores prefent themfelves. This is fuch a profpefi,
as muft expand the heart, and delight the fpedator, attached
to the charms of nature, and to rural fcenes ; and recal le mind
the days of old, when princes and princefles are feid to have
tended their herds and flocks, amidft the beauties of Arcadia.
Upon afcending above this height, the profpeft opens, and
enlarges, to the fouth-weft, and you behold the Strait of
Corran, the iflands of Shuna and Lifmore; the fouth-eaft
part of Mull, together with the iflands of Saile and Kerrera,
on the oppofite coaft of Argyll. At this altitude, two ele-
' vated hills make their appearance over thcfe ifles $ which, by
their fliape, declare themfelves to be ibe Paps of yuta.
Turning to the wefl, and inclining a Uttle towards the north,

you

^of Kilmalie. J^\)

lire like fmall fpots of rich verdure ; and, though diftant, neat
30 miles, feem quite near, and under the beholder. The lo^
parts of Jura, cannot be difcerned, nor any part of Ifla ; far
lefs, the coaft of Ireland, which fome haVe pretended to fe6
from the top of Benevis. Such, however, is the wide extent
6f view, from the fummit of this mountain, that it reaches
J 70 miles, from the horizon of the fca, at the Murray Frith, o/i
the north eaft, to the ifl^nd of Colunfa, on the fouth weft.
Could one pafs a night, in 06lober, on the fummit of Bene-
vis, it is probable, that he would difcover the heavenly bo-
dies in greater fplendbnr, than upon Mount Blanc itfelf. The
latter, it is true, is much higher ; but the the former, is in a
colder climate, and confequently^ When fair, in a lefs fhaded
Iky.

iTic high hills on each fide of the lakes and rivers, men-<
tioned above, opening like' huge walls, or ramparts, on each
band, yl^ld a curious variety of agreeable' wild profpeds ; the
vaft windings whereof make the feveral turnings of the
mountains rather diverfify th6 fcene, than obflroft the eye.
Their extremities, declining gradually from their feveral
fummits, open into vallies, where One has variegated views of
woods^ rivers, plains, and lakes. The torrents of water,
which, here and there, tumble down the precipices, and, in
many places, break through the cracksand cliffs of the rocks,
arreft the eye, and fufpend the mind, in awful aflonifli*
ment. In a word, the number, the extent, and the variety of
the {cvcral profpefls, — the irregular wildnefs of the hills, of the
rocks, and of the precipices, — the noife of rivulets, and of
torrents, breaking and foaming among the ftones, in fiich a di->
iredity of ihapes and colours, — the fliining fmootlmefs of the
feas, and of the lakes, — the rapidity, and rumbling of the ri-
vers, falling from flielve to flielvc, and forcing their fl reams
through a multitude of obftruftions, — the feifenity of the

Vol.. VIII. 3'G azurfe

41 S^ Statifiical Account

azore ikies, and the fplendonr of the glorious fiuit riding in'
the brightnefs of his majeftj — have fomething fo charmiogly
wild and romantic^ and fo congenial to the contemplative
mind, as fnrpafles all defcription, and prefents a (bene, of which
the mod fervid imagination can fcarcclj form an idea.

The traveller, who is fo calloos, as to behold all this, and
not feel the greatnefs and majeftj of the Almigatt Archi^
TCCT imprefled upon his heart, muft, indeed, be firangely void
of fenfe, of tafte, and' of fentiment. It affords a leflbn, wor-
thy of travelling up the mountain to'leam, Benevb, and the
furrounding mountains, do, indeed, ftronglj excite the idea of
Burnet, of their being the fragments of a oncfe demoliftied
world.-— Few can perform a journey to the top of Benevis, and
make proper obfervations, going and returning, in lels than
9 hours ; and ftill fewer, without feeling, in their limbs, the
effefis of the fatigne, for a daj or two after. «

Minerals. — ^There is no coal mine in the parlfli ; but a:
vein of lead ore has been lately difcovered, upon the weft fide
of Benevis, running eaft and weft, crols a bum, in the heart'
of a folid rock of fine red granite, with a flope outwards, as it
defcends; and, but for this flope, in a vertical pofition. It is
four or five inches thick ; compofcd of about one third of
ore, and the reft, of white marcafite, with a mixture of ful*
pbur) and feems to grow thicker, and richer, as it defcends.
The accefs is not difficult ; and the perpendicular height,
about 300 yards from the bottom of the valley. Two other
parallel narrow veins, are to be fecn a few yards lower down.
Though a trial could be eafily made, none has, as yet, been-
attempted. But, no doubt, Mr. Cameron of Glenevis, the
proprietor of this mountain, fo famous among Scottilh hills, will
be induced, by the promifing appearance, to make a trials At
Inverfcaddle, belonging to Mr. Cameron of Fafsfern, there is
another vein, of the fame kind, which has been tried, but not
2 ' fa

o/Kilmalie. 419

fo far, as to arcertain its value. That thefe veios are good»
and worth working, is highly probable, as thej run in a line,
ieaft and weft, with tbofe at Strontian.

There is abundance of limefione in the parifli; and, at BaU
lachuliih*, belonging to Mr. Cameron of Locheile, there is a
•fine appearance of a flate quarry, clofe to the ihore of Loch-
leven, which there forms a prettj baibn, where a quay could

3 G a be

• «< Near the htm houiet,'* of BalUchtillih, ^ there its limeftone, or marbte
<' rock, of a beautiliil aiben grey colour^ aad of a fine regular tmUorm graio, or
** teiture ; capable of being raifed in blocks, or flabt, of any fixe, and capable o£
^ receifing a fine poUfli. This lingular rock, is finely fprinkled throughout,
** with grains and fpecks of fine bright mundick, or pyrites ; and likewife, with
*< grains and fpedcs of beautiful lead ore, of a fine teiturc, which, to the eye, ap»
^ pears to be rich in filver. This woqld make a bright and beaiitifbl metallic
** marble.

" In the farm of Blarmachfhnildaich, belonging to the Duke of Gordon,
** about '3 miles fouth of Fort-William, in the bed of a river, there is a very fin*
** gular marble, confiding of a black ground, and flowered with white. This
** ftone, is of a fine dofe grain, or uniform texture, but not very hard ; and the
** flowering in it is light, elegant, and beautiful, like fine needle-work ; or rather,
.** refembling the frofty fret-work, upon glafs windows, in a winter niorning;
'*' and this flowering, is not only upon the outfide, but quite through all parts
** ofthebodyof theftone.

** A great part of the hill of Benevis, is compofed of porphyry. It is a re-
>** markably fine, beautiful, and elegant fione, of a redifli cafl, in which the pale
*' rofe, the blufli, and the yellowifli white colours, are finely blended, and
** (haded, through the body of the ftone, which is of a jelly-like texture, and is,
.** undoubtedly, one of the fineft, and muft elegant, ftones in the world. About
** three fourths of the way up this jbill, upon the north weft fide, there is found
<« a porphyry, of a greenifli colour, with a tinge df a brownifli red. TThis ftone
** is fmooth, compa^, hard, and heavy, of a clofe uniform texture^ but of no
. ^ brightnefs, when broken. It is fpotted with angular fpecks, of a white quartiy
^ fubftance.

** The elegant rediih granite, of Benevis, is, perhaps, the beft, and mod
** beautiful in the world; and there is enough of it, to ferve all the kingdoms of
f^ the univerfc, though they were all as fond of granite, as ancient Bgypt *•**
f Sn WUIiams'f Katural Hijory of the Mineral Kimgdum.

^20 Statiftical Acepunt

lie eaiilj built.— There is a rock, of an ^ceUent redifii gra^

^fiite, in the farm of Sallachan, belonging to.Cnptain McLean

of Ardgour, which will adroit o a fine poliilu ^ What a pity

it is, that fuch funw of roooej, ihould be fent ev^ry year to

foreign kingdoms for marble, when our own country abounds

jvith all kinds of floncs, of tbc very beft qviajiiy, ncc^tary for

prnamental architecture ?

Ecboef ^Therc is an echo at the Efplanade of Fort- William,

near the place where the brewhoufe (lands, and dncrther, in the
face of the hill of Succoth, immediately behind Afdgour-
houfe. There are probably feveral moie in the parifli.

Caves, — In the face of a very ftcep rock, near Baljachu*
li(h, there is a r:ave, but fo difficult of accefs, that there is no
perfon living, at prefent, in the parifli, who has ventured to
explore it*. Adefcription gf it, confcquenlly, cannot be given.
About 8 miles up the river Nevis, there is another remark-
able cave, known by the name of ** Uaigb^^t ^Hoirle,^^ or Sa^
.muePs Cave; that being the patronymic of the family of
Glencvis. This cave is in the heart of a rock, v/hich appears
to be about 70 feet. high, and nearly as broad, leaning to the
fide of a mount, fouth of the river, and not far did ant from
it. It is of di{Hcult accefs, having, quite clofe to tlie entrance,
a perpendicular rock, 30 or 40 feet high. The cave appears

• It is not 9 great number of yrai s, however, Cace a man, who had been
obliged to (kulk for his crimes, n:ade it his place of abode and refuge, for the
fpace of about 3 years. During day light, he kept within his cell; but, as foon
as the darknefs of the night favoured him, he iffued forth from his ftrong hold, m
qaeft of proviiions. While he continued thus cautious, he was fecure ; but, at
]afi, growing confident, he ventured to fally out in the day time. In one of
thcfe predatory excurdons, he was apprehended, and compelled to do juflice Cti
the laws of his country.

of Kilmalie. j^ii

to be formed, by one part of the rock leaning to the other,
and forming, between them, an arched, irregular, fhapelefs,
kind of grotto, from 6 to 12 or 14 feet high. It is 30 feet
long, and 11 broad. The floor is very uneven, floping from
the mouth all the way. There are 3 dlvifions in it ; the
largeft of which, would afford flielter for about 30 people.
At its extremity, there are two other paffages, leading farther
into the rock \ both are quite dark. Thefe apertures conduA,
through the body of the rock, to other recefies ; but fuch i»
^heir dark, and hideous appearance, that few can be prevail*
' ^d on to enter them. . One of thefe pailages, opens at the
extremity of the large apartment, and is lincfd with a {helving
precipitate rock, that goes about xo feet downwards, and ef-
fe&ually deters moil of the vi(itants from proceeding any
farther ; — the other pal&ge is nearly over it, at the roof of the
vaults to which one may eafily aicend, by the help of a ilop-«
ing part of the rock. The earth, on the floor of the cave, and
the drops oozing through the crevices, occalion a perpetual
dampnefs, and difagrdeable fmell. It is the frightful habita-
tion of darknefs ;— an abode, fit to be inhabited only by the
fons of defpair, — ^being one of thofe howling caverns, where
the fubterraneous winds blow. Hither, however, Come re-
treated for fafety, in the year 1746, — and here they, for fame
time, lived fecure *. The mouth of the cave is not above 3^
feet high, and is pretty much concealed by its iituation. The

lurgenefs .

'^
* There is a tradition among the vulgar, that a piper -went once into this

cave, and that the noife of his mufic was heard, under ground, at a place called

Kinloch, diiUnt, from the entrance of the cave, no Icfs than 10 miles. The

tunc he played was, " Oh I that 1 had three bands ! l-wofer the bagpipe^ and oiufor

** tbefwordi** fignifying that he had been attacked by fubterrancan foes. Other

pariihes will, no doubt, claim right to this unfortunate piper, who f«rgot to

bring a clew with him, to guide him back through the labyrinth. This ftory

deferves the fame credit, with thofcof many other traditionary tales, of the fabu-

loub baxds.

421 Stan/tical Account

Jargenefs of tlie rock, however^ where it is, and feme Ar teees
4m its top, will lead to a dilcovexj of it.

Caf cades ^-^]\A oppofite to the rock, where the laft men-
tioned cave is, on the other fide of the river, there is a rooft
beauttfol cafcade, falling down, bj a gradual flope, from Be-
jievis, upwards of half a mile before it reaches the bottom of
the vallej, where it unites its flrcams with thofeof the Nevis.
The appearance of this Iheet of water, immediately attraSa
one's attention, dilates the heart, and kindles, in the mind*
thofe lofty and grand fentiments of devotion, and thofe pleai»
fing elevated feelings, which the fublime found of a cafcade,
or the war of many waters, naturally excite. The windings of
the river,-*-the verdure of the trees,— the wildriefs of the
rocks,-»the terrific afpeft of the hills,-^the mift, flying fwift-
ly on their tops, — the clouds, rolliag along with velocity,—
the lonely (itnation, remote from human eye,-— «very thing
confpires to make thb fall of water, one of the grandeft ob-
jefis in nature. It even excels the famous Fall of Foyers^
which cannot be beheld with fo much complacency. It is,
indeed, awful and fublime \ but has too much of the terrible
in its appearance.*- About two miles farther up the river Ne^
vis, there is another cafcade, which, after forcing its way
through hills and rocks, has a fall of, at lead, 500 feet per.
pendicular. It is on the fame fide of the river with the cave.
This pariih, as may naturally be ezpefted, from the ntimber
of hills in it, abounds with calcades, that compofe a beautiful
tand pi&urefque fcenery.

^ood[r.— There can be little doubt, but that the greateft part
of the parifli was once over-run with wood. At prefent, it is faid,
there are about 14,000 acres under it. The mod coniiderable,
and the moft valuable plantation, belongs to Mr. Cameron of

Locheile,

ofkilmaUe. 4^^

LacheilcyWbo has upwards of 6,000 acres under birch andfir, in-'
teriiiiogled> and 4,000 acres more, under oak and other timber.
On the property of Capt. McLean of Ardgour, there are about ,
1,000 acres of firs, oak, and other fpecies of trees. Theie
woods, in many places, would be very valuable. Here, how^
ever, they are not, being far from the^ fliore, and the roads ta
them extremely bad. To purchafe imported timber, therefore,
is found to be cheaper ; at leaft, it is preferred. The tree»,
that grow naturally, are oak, fir, birch, a(h, mountain-aih,
holly, elm, wild geen, hazle, and the Scotch poplar. Thofe
planted are, larix, fpruce, fiiver fir, beech, plane, and fruit
trees*

Wild ^gadrupedf and Birds^-^The quadrupeds are, deer
and roes, — hares, as large as thofe in the low countries of Scot«
hnd, but not fo fwift, — weafels, pglecats, badgers, and foxes,
of two kinds : thefe laft, are moftly extirpated, fince the in-*
troduAion of flbeep. — ^The birds are, eagles, of three different
kinds, hawks, kites, ravens, crows, and rooks. There are
heathcocks, ptarmachans, and partridges ^ but they are de^
creafing annually, as their eggs are trampled upon, and broke
By the iheep. There are alfo fnipes, and plovers, with all
forts of poultry; and a great variety of fmall birds, of the mu-
ficai kind, fuch as the rofe, the heath, and the rock-linnet,-—
the chaff, the bull, and the goldfinch,— ^the Iky-larl^, the
thruib, the robin-x'edbreaft, &c.w-The migratory birds are,
woodcocks, which appear in Odober, atid go away in March,—
and cuckoos, fwallows, martins, fwifts, and ilonechatters,
which arrive in April, and depart in Augufi, September, and
Oftobcr,

Ca/r/e.— -At prefcnt, there ate in the parifti, according to
the exadeft calculation that could be made, about 6,ooo head

4^4 Statyikal Account

of bizck cattle, 5c c bcrfrs, i,s^c poits, and 5r,ccr iccef*
Before the mocc of fLtep-frinoing was infro^jced, a gre&c
DOtsbrr of horfjs were reared for Lie. Thsy wer* well (fcaprJ ,
hardy, and high mettled. Good ones now fell at from 81. to 2cL
Owing to their decree 11 r.;^ in nambcr everj feafoo, tbcj have
advanced in price cor.fultrAMy, of late years. They are iifcd
in pioagbing, harrowing, leading home peats, and carrying
manure to the fields. ,Foi:r of them, are yoked a-breafl in the
plough ; and a man, v>\\q leads them, flai.d3 immediately be-
fore tbem, at;d walks bickw::rd, facing the ploughman. This,
furely, is very auk ward ! T!.e genllemen in the pariih, how-
ever, yoke but two horfes in the plough ; and the one who
holds it, manages alfo the reins. Three diUcrent kinds of
ploughs arc nfed. — ^The ibeep were firft introduced, into the
parifli, in the year 1764. Tiiey have fince increafed fo much,
that about diree fourths of the country are occupied by theiif.
WbcreTcr they are, there is not above the I30cdth acre ia
tillage. Hence the quantify of hill ground may be conceived.
But, indeed, the vallies are moftly pailure walks, for the win*
tcr and fpring retreat of the {beep, as well as of the black cat-
tle.— All the hills, below the perpendicular altitude of 6c6
yards, are lined with beautiful, fuft, and rich heath ; but,
dbove that height, they are moftly barren^ There is no com^-
mon in the pariili.

Produce^ Cuttlvation^ &c. — Oafs, barley, and potatdes, afe
the principal crops. The climate and foil here are ill calcu-
lated for rearing grain. In the beft feafon, the crop is
precarious, and hardly equivalent to the esp^nces incurred.
Potatoes, which are moftly planted in drills, anfwer remark*
tbly well ; and turnips, it is believed, would turn to good ac-
count, particularly to the Aeep farmer. Hitherto, however,
liltle attention has been bellowed upon them. Oats are fowh

during

fiiorc tW 6 fleeced generallj go to eacli (bnci which is e^aal
to about XO9OOO ftooesk

6666 X4, ik is. tLptr ilone, coihe td <« « - i499 <9 4$

•3313 10, at5i.6d.^#riloiie, comcttt - - - 916x3 9f

10000 o fotalannuAlprodacedfthewbolofthispariih, 34x6 13 %

Population,^-^Tht introduftion of fhcepi it is obvious, h«s
ft tendency to diminiflx the number of iohftbitants in particu*
lar diftrids *. In this parifliy however, from the opentioa
of peculiar circumftancest the population has incies^ed confi-
derabljy and is (till on the increafe. It is not eafj, now, to
determine the ttzQ, proportion of people that remain^ com<«
pared with thofe who have been obliged to remove. From a
medium ftatemcnt of feveral farms, in different fituations^
thej appear to have been nearly three times as populous, aa
they are at prefent. But one fourth of thepariih is (till un.-
der black cattle, and contains as great a number of people as

.3 H a . ever*

* Inhere is an abfiolate necef&ty of pre&rriag the ^aft, daring fommer and
hanreft, upoQ.the low grounds, for the ufe of the iheep in winter and fpring ;-^
for, otherwife, they run a riik of periihing. This codd not be done, were
the fame number of people, at formerly, to live there, and to cultivate lands fot
tileir own fubiiftenc^ Befides, the number of obws and hor£es| they wouldrequire,
would entirely confnme the grals. Froptieton, it is (aid, hate made repeated
trials of letting their lands, among the former tenants, jointly, provided thej
Would (loch them with theep, and agree among themielTet, with regard to theit
refpedive Ihares. But every inftance of this kind, has proved unfuccefsful in
the end. And, indeed, it ia almoft impoffiUe, that a nnhimdc of people tan
ngree in managing a joint Hock of iheep, and bringing the prodnce to market*
Schemes of this kind, confeqnently, how planfible Ibever they may Icem in theo-
ry, will evfr fail of fnccels in pradice ; and experience has demonfbated the ab»
f nrdity of fuch an attempt* The fad is, that iheep farms cannot be let with
prudence, or advantage, to a number of tenants; and the introdudioa af
iheep mttft| of coirfe, dimiailh die noiabcr of teaants in yvticvlar 4iftrid|«

42S Stafi/lical Account

ever. And of thofe, who have been difpoflefled, very fcW
have quitted the parilh. ' They go and refide in Marjrburgh ;
as feveral aUb do from other neighboaring parilhes -, which
accounts for the increafiog populoufoefs of that village. Be«
fides which« the women, in general, are very prolific, fre-
quently bringing forth twins ; and, in September laft, (1792^9
two women were delivered of 3 children each at a birth*
Every marriage commonly produces from 5 to 7 children.
For feveral reafons, it is almoft impoffible to keep an exaft
and a complete regifter of baptifms and marriages, in fo ex-
fenfive a parifli as this. Unlefs the clergyman, at the time of
celebrating thefe ordinances, write down, in a memoranduoi
book, the names of the parties, and tranfmit them afterwards
to the feflion clerk, they will never be regiftered ; for the
parties themfelves either negleft, or difregard to do it. Be«
fides, it is believed, that the Papifb and Epifcopalians keep a
feparate regifter of their^ own births and marriages. And,
of deaths, no regifter has ever yet been attempted to be
kept in *the parifli* By the moft exaft calculation, the
number of fouls b - • - • 4^^5

The return to Dr# Webfter, in 1755, was - - 3093

Increafe, - * - - - 113a

The inhabitants, in the garrifon, however, being includ- -j
ed in the above number, and not enumerated in the > 194
return to Pr. Webfter, maft be dadu&ed J

£zad increafe in 37 years, . p . 938

Of the above number, about laoo live in Marybnrgh and
Fort- William $ and of thefe there ar^

Merchaott;

. ofKilmaUe. 425,

during the two laft weeks of March ; Jbarlej, and potatoes, ia
the end of April, and beginning of May. Bariey is reaped ia
the end of Auguft \ oats, from the beginning of September ta
Oftober, and potatoes, aboat the elid of September.

The following is the average number of EngUih acres, uih
der the different forts of grain, on each of the iheep &rms :

13 acres are under \% bolls of oats.
4 ■■ under 3 bolls of barley.

JO ■ voder 14 bolls of potatoes*

Toul, %y acres in tillage.

34,973 acres in iheep padure.

Ia all, ^P^o acres; being x6 miles by 3 and two fifths.

In farms of ledi extent, there is a fmaller proportion ac-
eordtnglji Indeed, thofe proportions are equal to a medium
of 4 ordinary Iheep farms in the parifb, 6r to 8, aecording to
former divifiohs. In farms, where there are black cattif
ftocks, there are nearly 4 times this proportion of ground ia
culture. The pafture grounds, including iheallings, do not
tent at abo^e 4d. p4t acre annual! j. The returns, upon an
average, are, of oats, 3 from i, of barley, 5, and of potatoes, lo.
There is no hemp, and very little flax feed, fown in theparifli*
The vallies and meadows yielding fpontaneouflj plenfy of ex*
cellent grafs: there is but little clover, or rjegraCi fown. Tht
gardens yield the ordinary vegetables*

Imp6rts and Exports. — The articles .imported are, meal,
floor, oats, butter, cheefe, whiiky, foreign fpirits, fait, timber,
tar, and all kinds of mercantile goods. There were entered
inwards, in the year 1791, at the port of Fort- William, .
coaftwifs) 8,oco bolls of oatmeal; which, at the average price
of 168. 8d. per boll, is 66661. 13s. 4d. But only about 2 sea

VoiiVIIL 3 H bolls

4^5 Statifikal Account

bolls were ufed in the parifh, the reft being fold to other
countries: 2500 boUsy at the above price, come to 2083L'.
6%.%i. We may fafdj fay, that the parifli pays at leaft,
that fom for meal every year ; for fcldom, very feldom^ it is,
Aat it fells foreafonably, as is above ftated. Of whiiky, there
axe annnally imported into the pariib, and dmnk in it, about
ajfOoo gallons^ which, at 4 s. each gallon, cofts 3*000 1. The
exports are, filb, wool, fhcep, horfes, and black cattle.
During the fummer and harveft X79i» there were taken, by
the people of the pariih, about 3,000 barrels of herrings,
which, at zSs./^r barrel, is 2700 1.

Account of Wool &nt coafiwife, from the port of Fort-William, fbr 3 yem
preoediAg the 5th day of January 1791U

€vf, frr.Ar.
from 5th January 17891 to 5* January 1790, • - 2737 3 04,

From 5th January X 790, to 5th January X79Z, . « « 0653 ft 8

From 5th January X79X, to 5th Jannary Z79S» • - 3593 s z

In aD, S985 o 5

^* 41^30 ftones, at S4 lbs. EnglUh to each ftone. Two thir^ of the wool are
white, and one third is tarred*

Simu, Unm X. #• 4

^7,953 8, at 7t. 6d.^ftoDe, amoontto , • • X048» 10 a
13*976 1 6>Bt 5 1. 6 d.^ ftone, amount to ... 3843 iz 8

4x930 o Total of wool exported in 3 yearly X43ft6 i 8>

The annual average produce of wool, exported from Fort^Vtl- 7 ^w

liam, ia therefore • - - - f 3

The greateft part of the above wed, was fent coaftwUe to
Liverpool, and other ports in England. Let it be obfervedt
however, that it includes much xAore thao the produce of
lhi9 pariibi in which there sire oulj 60,000 iheep. Sometl^og

rooro

petty It 18. It is in a thriving wvy, and Tritli their coiin«
tenancelmd patronajfe, is likely to become a diftihgnifbed place*

Fort'WSIIiamrSiwais upon the fouth fide of a finall gnl^
of that arm of the fea, called Locheile ;' where, bj the turn of
the mountains, it forma itfelf into an angle, and receives thm
rivers Lochj and Nevis. It is fituated upon a plain, almoft
level with the fea« * Upon the oppofite ihore, there is anodier
of a much larger extent, upon the finne level, which widens^'
and exceedingly beautifies the profped. Thefe plains axe
furrounded with mountains, which were once covered with
woods, and are watered with many fprings and'rivulets.

The fort was firft built during the usurpation of Oliver
Cromwell^ by the advice and direftion of Monki It occupied
more ground at that time than it does now, and confifled of
a^ooo effeftive troops. Colonel Braym was the firft, I be«
Jieve, who was appointed governor. The fort was then diC-
tingttiihed by the name of the ' " Gsrrifoh of Inverlochy."— ^
In the time of King William, it "was rebuilt, on a lefs fcalc»
with ftone and lime. In the year 1746, it flood a fiege of
5 weeks, which comm^ced a4th February, and was raifed
3d April following, with the lofa only of 6 men killed,
and 14 wounded *. The fort is, by no means, a place of
ilrength. For thefe two years paft, all the men in it hfive
been only a company of invalids. Befides, fome years ago^
about a fourth part of the wall was undermined, and fwept
away by the river Nevis : It has ever fince been faft going to
mint and there appears not the moft diflant profpeft of ita
being repaired. General James Murray is the prefent go«
vemor of the fort; Lord Forbes is depnty^govemor ; and

Captain

• A journal of the fiege, had been kept hj one of the officsn in the fwrilM^
a copf of which it ia the poicfliQa «f ths writer hereof

43«

StatifikalJc<9Ufii

Csptaia ' Thomas Cochrane, commaadinf offictr. A poft«
office was eftabliihed at Fort-William in the year x^jS^.^.^
There is a mafon-lodge \ and a jail, in which there have been,
is all, fince 1781, for various crimcsi 48 prifonersi many of
them few trivial offences.

Rent and Profiriet^s^'^The valaed rent of the parifli, i«
434L X4S. 4d. Ster. ; the real gro(s rent, about jiool. j the lands^
rent at 4713 L 8 s. 11 d. } the falmon filhing, upon the river
Lochy, rents at about 230!.; ftill water fiihing, at 37I. ^
honles rent at about 200 1* The. following table Ihows tha
proprietors in the parifh *; their rental, valued and real ^
and the fuperiors of whom thej bold their lands« The threo
laft refide in it«

Fakurtimi.

JU0^R0dt.

Mr. Cammm of Locheite,

L.S50 0 e

L.l5eo 0 0

Mr.irLauioCArdg<nir{,

;< II I

l643 % II

Dafce of Gordon,

Mr. Cameron of Glenerit,

34 < 10
30 r6 8

300 0 0
500 0 0

Kir. Cameron of Fafsfem

30 5 <

660 0 0

%/[r. rhtm^nBAf |^ip|nff^1#vfP|

10 IS 3

100 0 0

L.434 14 4

L.47»3 8 II

JDaketofArgyll
aodGordoo.
IDake of Argyll
andCnmxi|«
Crown-
Duke of Gordon.
JDukciolGoritai
aodAjrgylL
Duke of Gordon.

Improved Value of Zand^^Sinct the year 1 764, when flieep
were firft introduced into the parifli, the value of land has
augmented confiderablj ;^n general, to tjiple what it th^n
was. Farms, ynder long leafes, muft be excepted. Of thefe
there are only a few, which were granted by the commiflion-
ers upon the annexed eftates. Where there are but Ihort

leafes

* Chan^ of property are not Dreqaent ; not abore three inltancet having
Occurred within thefe 150 years.
§ Ardgoor does not hold fb much of the Croim^ at intitlei lim t6 1 toie.

tfS^matie,

-449

Sferdiut^ • •

•

BrQoght a^tt^

131

ahoi>4«pa% - - .

. 9

FtdUen, - •

Cupcotcn, • •■ •

- II

Bacber,

ShilHRTri^t, . . .

Dyer,

Boat-wrights, . -

Surgeonty •

" )

Wheel-wrightt, - • -

Comptroller, - *-

f <w

eirt-wrig^ti.

SurTejor^ - •

. < t

C«opcrt, .- - * . -

Tide-wiitcri,

fltwen^ - . • .

Exrifrnitifiit • fc

Mafoiit«. * . «

. a6

School-mafiert,

Tajlon, - - - -

• i»

Attomeyf, • •

WeaTcrt, - - - .

• a4

Farmen, • • - .

ttioe-Buken,

. it

Gardeners, • • ^ <

Smithii • . . .

• 3

Iiin-keeper% - - , ^

Kailert, . . « .

Mantnamaken, ^ «

Batchers, • . - -

■ 5

Seamftreflesy .» * <

Baken,

• 3

— -^

i*«ii. m

Canyofcr,

131

There are 13 old people lmng» at ptefent, in Maryburgfa, at
the following ages :

6 aged S4 years of age*
X 88 ^

3 97 —

a— 98 ^

1 ^.m^mm 104 I

Died in the parifh,

15 years ago, I aged 107 years of age«
If ■ I — -109

4 ■ ■ I — xo» ■■

And laCk year, x — — 103 ■

Language,

L*^>

• Good mafont, brid^layers, and cupenters, get x s. 8d . /«r day. A taylor^
and brogue-maker, irho goes about for work, receives xod. a-day, befidea^
TiAoals, and a common labonrer, xs. Bnt, for this laft dafs, there is not con^
ftant work throughout the year ; and what he earns, depends npon his own di-
ligence. Where there it not confiant^work, the rates for j^y^laboufcrs caaiiiA
be fixed i and, of couifei it iiimpoffibU to afccnuB any dctttsunatc iacome« or
any oertaia ezpence*

j^yy Statifltcal Account

Language.^^^£he Gaelic is the motl)^ tqpgoe of- tk«
fffttives; aodt it- is tbooght, tbat in-this^ and fome nagh^
iMmriog p«riihes»' it is fpoken in its gftateft ptirt^. Thongli
^^jGaelic be the origiaal language, diere aie very few people,
cSpiciallj of the youoger clafs, who do not underftand and
fpQ^k Engliih. . It is remarkable, jet not the left true, diat
dieiUitenite Highlander, who is a Araoger to every other
lan^lpge tot the Gaelic, fpeaks It nA>re fluezftly, tnore ele«
gaatlj^ and more purely , than the fcholar^»

VUU^e^^^Maryburgbf or Gordonjhwrgbr is the only one of
note in the pariOi, and. is fituated upon the fea lh&re, fouth
fide 6f Ldicheile, within a few yards to the' foufh-weft of
FortAVillam. Anciently, the place where it ftands, was called
Aitchmtork'btg. The village was then built on the ground
where the Efplaoade is now. It was after the acceffion of
^ Prince of Orange to the Britiih throne^ that it- obuiined
the name of Maryburgb, in honour of his royal coofort. Fos
fome time paft, it has liecn indifcriminately called Marybuigh
wd Gordoniburgh, foomlhe-^mily of Gordon, whofe pro*

^ fbe name of almoft erery place in Caledonia, it derived from the Caefic }
ib that it IB onneceflary to eqameate many ioftaocei. Cmfath^ a phce dofe to
the Ibore, on an angle of Locheile, is a compoand, fignifying thcJIeU ^f tmrffit*
It it well known, that men of dote were anclehtly interred in looa« Such aa
were brought from the north of this pariih, were kept in ftate at Corpach for a
aight, or perhaps longer. Hence the original of the name. Oehudcb is another
place opon the (hore of Lochkren, where the dead, hnmgfat from Perthflure,
#ere embarked for the confeerated ground of lona, and means a grm^p ^ <lMp
confiidiog figh of lamentation. Pcrhi^ woman wcrr Uied to fet up the .Ci»»>
Mflfr. Locbabtr^m L9€b'mm^^per^^i^pi&x»fiiAlAUt§^B0rm. Indeed it deftrve^
not the name of lake, being a (mall pool in the mols of Corpach. The trai&ion
ts» that the deer, in the routing (eafon, fought about this lakei and loft their
hsmM. Hence the whole country has received iu name.

ifKUmaRe. 435

Ijiafeft gfanted by landlorfs, itnprovcmcnts will advance very
^owly. There arc fomp lands in the pariih, which are cfr
teemed high rented.— The great augmentation of rents mull
be attributed, principally, to the m«de adopted, of flocking
farms with iheep. Thej require a fmaller number of hands
to tend them, than black catt^s ; caa grai» in places where
thefe would not venture, and yield a greater produce. This,
it will be acknowledged, is a ftrong temptation to proprie*
tors, who value money more than nun^ to encourage fbeep*
farming ♦.— rTUerc are 93 farms in the parifli ; The average
extent of eachy is 6^ fquare miles ; and the average annual
ijrent, about 50 1. Stcrlbg. Of thefe 93 farms, 54 belong to
l^ocbeile, and 18 to Ardgour; — and of thefe laft 18, 2 farms
rent at 100 1* each ; 9 at a^o L each 1 and pne at 340 1. The
)oweft at 30 1«

Cburchc^^ SfCc.-r-There are 9 places of worlbip in tt^e pariib*
Befides the eftablifhed minifter, there is a miflionarj, ap- '
' pointed by the committee for n^anaging his Majefty*s royal
bounty, who relides at Fort- William, and another, who offi-
ciates in the pariih once a month. The minifter of a miffion,
|n fome neighbouring pariihes, alfo refides in Kilmali^y befides
a preacher of the gofpel. Once a month, a Popith and a Non^
juring ' clergyman, preach within thp bounds of the parifli.
Vol. VIII. 3 I The

* A periodical writer hss propoled tp mingle com and iheep fjtrms together,
|d fttch propordoot, that the latter may pnrchafe the Inutt of the former. The
adoption of this ichcme, he thinks, would prevent emigration. In the footh of
Scotland, fuch a plan might anfwer; hut, in this pariih, it is totally impradica-
ble. For what is the had in tillage, compared to the hill grounds } The Tallies
tfouldtafily be cultivated, but what would then become of the grafs upon the
lulls? There, the Iheep graie aU fummcr and harvcft, but mnft be brought to
the ftraths to lised during winter and fpring ; and, coofetjuently, very little crop
jcan be reared. The bulk of the people, therefore, mall remove, either to
^wm or villages in ths nei|jhbonrhoed, or out of the country.

434 ' StatifticMl AcdtfUttt

The tmrnber of members of the £ftabliflied Ohureby \% i^tj^'
•^.^f Papifts, 103,—- tod gf I^oiijavorfti 407. It is sot lon^^
fifice the number, of Papifts amoonted onlj to 35. The in--
creafe is owbg to their flocking into Marjrburgh, from the
neighbouring coiuitries» wbe|^ difpoflefled of their lands.-—
Until the year 1779> the living was worth iip iiiore than 52 K
20 s. Sterling annually ; neither was (here any allowance mad^
for communion elements $ and even yet, it is only 69 1, xo s*^
and 3 1. 6 s. 9 d« for cQmipumon elements. There is no maofe.
The heritors allow, in place thereofi an4 for deficiency of
glebe, the fum of ix L 13 s. 4 d. An excellent pari(h churcH
was built, in the year 1783, which coft 4401. ; and, laft year,
another was built, in Marybi^rgh, by the Duke of GordoQ
end the Inhabitants, that coft fomewhat more* The Dake of
Argyll has always been reckoned the patron of the parifli ;
but, it is faid, that he has made orer his right of patronage to
Locheile, with whom «he Duke of Gordon difputes it. Prin-*
etpal Campbell, of the* Univerfity of Qlafgow, was prcdeccC?
for to the prefent incumbent.

5!rieoZr.— The parochial fchool is at Sort- William ; which, if
not the moft centrical ^ace, is at leaft the moil populous in the
parifli. Here, the languages and mathematics are taught. The
number of the fcholars, attending, is about x'jo. The falaty is
x6 1. 23 s. 4d. ; which, with the fchool fees, feffion-clerk's fa.
lary, and the dues for chriftenings and marriages, will be equal
to about 90 L, or lool. Sterling aonuaUy. Befides this fcfa(>ol,
there are 5 others, 00 the eftablifbment of the Society for pro-
' pagattng Chriftian Knowledge. To one of thefe, they grant
a falary of 22 1, and to the reft 12 1. each. There is alfo a
catechift, employed between this and Kilmaaiiraig parifli, with
a {alary of x a L Sterling.

pW.— llie poor of this parifh wander abotit, and beg from
door to door, to the grave i For the funds; appropriated to
their ufe, are verj inadequate to their necefSties, being the
Sunday coUeftions, whieh maj amount to foiAethiog better
than Id L a-jeaf ; and. the intereft of j8L, beihg donatid&s
Inade, at different times, bj the following perfons, viss*

AleiEtoder CvDcrob* tackfiPfQ 9f StTone^ • h,to Q 0

Dvgald CamcroD, tcstnt at Stronlie, • - -^ p 6

James M*Cawl, tejumt »t Drumerbine, » r • 3 0 O

John Cameron, tenant at Cla£b|ug» ^ • 2 lo o

John MTbee, tenant ft( QIea4a|rary, - • o id o

- L.z8 o o

iaft year Major CatfiAii^ of firrafit feni t6 the writer of thit
article 20 1. Sterling; for the immediate relief of the poor ;
imd he has fince di&ributed among them upwards of %o U
mor^ hioalielf. There ar^ nd ftated ti)il^9 for dtvidiiig Ac
poor's money $ and fooie %rk relieved oftener thaa othera^ If
any ate reduced to poverty 1)y accident, difeafe, or calamity,
there is an eitrabrdinary coHeftion made for their relief.

3 I 2 COMFARATIVE

43^ Statifiical Accwnt

Comparative View
Oftbi Prices of Prtntifionsi &c. m the years 1771 and ^^9%•'

Beef lad miittiio,/er lib. I^dL Aeef ud ranttoo, »i<L or jd.

A goofe, It. ad. ' A goofey from 28. 6d. to 3s. 64.

A hen, from id. td 3d. A Hen, 6d. to 8d.

Butter,/#r lib. 4d. Butter, Sd.

Cbeefe,/«r£bonc it-dd. Cheere, 6d.

Safanon, /cr lib. I«L Sahnoo, jd. to 4d*

£gfs./»rdosea»xd. Eggt, ad. to 3d.

Poflttoei,/M^peck,(icaTCe),6d. ¥oaiu/9l jd. to ^

Barley, /«r bolL 169. Barley, zL la.

Oatt,/er boU, lot. Oats, 131. 4d. to XJi.

Coals, /cr COD, iSs. Coals, xSs. to zL

A boat load of peatsy 4t. 6d. A boat load of peats, 9s. io las^

Taik^ftr lib. ad. Fori:, 3d.

^ Apig,il.toaL

A dock. It.

A goat, 5s. 6d. to 71. 6d«
A calf, as. 6d. to 5s.

jtntijuities^mmjjfon the banks of the river Lochj, on Um
north fide, about 4 miles above FortoWillianiy there are the
remains of an ancient taftle, concerning which the M. S. hif-
tory of the houfe of Locheile fajs, ** that it was built by the
** chief of that family, in the rei^n of Queen Mary." The
probability is, however, that it is of a much more ancient
date ; and the tradition of the country is, that it was built at the
fame time with the caftle of Invernefs. An additional probabi-
lity, of its being built long before the reign of the unfortunate
Mary, is, that Bancbo^ Thane of Locbaber^ (the ancefior of the
royal houfe of Stewar$)» had his caflle in this neighbourhood \

and,

ofKilmafic. 437

idij a litde below the fite of Torecaftle, there is a moft beau-*
tiftil walky about a quarter of a mile ioag, that ftill retains hi&
name. Along this fweet walk, on the one hand, flows the
Locbj ; on the other, there is a delightful bank, which is at pre*
fent planted with. fir, and which was then, undoubtedly, covered,
with ftately wood. There is ftill remaining, of this buiidingt
a wall of 40 or 50 feet, and a vault, almoft entire^ which
eoutd be converted into an excellent cellar. Of old^ when
£^re arms were unknown, it certainly was a very ftrong place*
It fiands on the brink of a frightful precipice, at the bottom
of which the river forces its paiTage through rocks,, and baa
been Secured on the land £de, by a ditch and draw-bridge.
The traces of the ditch are ftill very vifit^le *• On the fide o£
the glen, oppofite to ik^ fouth weft part of Benevis, lie fcat-^
tered in rains, the laft veftiges of a very ancient buildings
which, in a few years hence, will be entirely demolKbed, by

,the

* Ont of the face of the rock, on which the niiiu ftasd, growi an tged ve«
nerahle aifli, luxoriant in branches, where a pair of crows had neftled, and con-
tinued to batch for a number of years. But, of late, the neft has been overturn*
ed» from real wantonnefs, and its inhabitants Icared away. — ^Many things con-
cur to make this a fceae of mixed plealtire and grandeur. Below, there is a
hlack deep gulph, that makes the heart recoil; the roar of the water, foaming
and forcing iu way amidft rocks, has a wonderful tSkA upon the mind, while
the faknon are fecn firuggling againft its ftreams. Upon the other fide of the
river, are beheld lambs ikipping along iu banks, while the heath is covered vnth
ibeep, which infpire pleafantnefi and gaiety. At fome dillance, Benevis fcems to
threaten the neighbouring hiUs with deftmAian. Here and there, are feeo fome
plocf of arable gfouad, and the com changing its colour from green to yellow*
The golden rays of the fetting fun, glittering on the water, and darting through
the green boughs, heighten the pidurefque fcencry. A few yards farther dovm the
river, there is a imall ifland, that is covered with large ancient fir, where a vaft
number of ^lerons neftie, whofe noife is heard at a confiderable dijftance. A fcene
in which the heart, the mind, and the imagination, are at once interefted,isfure-
ly 00 mean obje^. Within a few yards of this ruinous caftle, the prefent mi*
niHer of the pariih rcfideit There are a number oiiumuii in the parifiu

45^ Statifiical Ac€$unt

the fftvtgef of ftlLeonqoefifig time. It if forgotten in the imi
nals of fune, tad tnditioii itfelf^ hit hardl j bete aUe to ff^
§txw€ tbe oime it bore, vis*

IhrndbairilgiM^it fttads vpoo the Wry fnmmit irf «
green hill, about 400 yards perpendicular in height. Th«
traces .of the bnOding are ftill Tifibk ; and the part now tc-
mainiog runs round the whole top of the hi]l» (the compais off
which is 150 yards), not in any rqnlar form, but feOowing
cxadly the verge of the fteep, lb as to command the greatefl
ftrength poffible. The figure is nearly oval* By iti fitnatiow
vpon this elevated fpot, it commamls part of Mamore, and thi
whole of Gleoevis, and mtift have been originally intnadcd for
a plsce of defence. This opinion Ce^ms to be confirmed by
the fize of the work, and by its being in fight of the eaftk of
Inverlocby *• Dundhaiidghall appears to htve been a felt of
gfeat antiquity, gndnot inferior, in this refpeft, to Inverlocby
caftle : indeed, of the two, it leems the more ancient. It ig
thought to have fervcd as an outwork for ftrengthening that
place, when it was a royal refidence. Authentic information
is upon record, of the kings of Scotland having refided at In-
verlocby, in tbe time of Charles theGreat of France ; and tUa
need not feem furprifing, when we refleft that Scotland was
then, moil probably, confined within very narrow bounds.
Granting the probability of the co-antiquity of tbefebuiIdiDgs,
Pundfaairdghall is not le& than i,aco years old* Tbe part of
the wall thst remains, is no more than from a to 4 feet hi^
and is vitrified all round. As this naturally* renders ftone
more friable, it has probably accelerated the down&ll of the
building. How the fire has been applied, can be only con-

jeftured.

* Inverlochj caftle i$ whhia keft tlisa S milsi^pf Fart*WiUisai,biititt the p^

rifli of Kilmamva^.

jeftured*. Of the sera, hiftorj, and ure'of this place, tradw
tion is totally filent. And, in fad, when the htftorj of In^*
Terlocbj caftle itfelf is inrolved in fo much obfcurity and fa«
Ue, no wonder that its watch«tower ikould moulder ipto for*-
getfulnefi and oblivion f f

EminefU jl^.-— Of thefe the parifh' has not been wholly
barren. In the reign of Janes L, flourifbed Jamcs CAMEROKt
a native of thir parifli| who was biihop of Glafgow, chanceU
lor of Scotland, and Qrft minifler to that monarch. He was
a man of great leamingt and a profound flatcfmant*—- In the
feign of Queen Marj* lived John. Cameron, minifter of Du*
noon i a perfon of great probitj and learning, and father to
$bt ** great Camseon, who was then the moft famous Protef-
** tant divine living. He paft his jounger years in the Uni*
f* verfity of Glafgow ; and leaving bis own country, when he
f* was very young, he arrived at Bouxdeaux in x66o, where
** he was much noticed for his great qualities and progrefs in
f* learning. He taught divinity, for three years, at Lamur,
5* and feemed to embrace the opinion of Armtnius, in fupport
«< of which he publiflied many treatifes.''— ^ir EwxH Came*
jiON was born in 1629, and died in 1719* Of this gentle-
nian, the author of this article could fay much, having mate^
fials in his hands for feveral pages {. John Inn£S, another na-
tive of thi^ pariih, is well known to the medical ftudent, by
^18 Ttreatife gn the Mufcks^ and his anatomical tables of the

human

* See sn accoant of vitrified fbrti, publiflied by Alexioder Pn£er Tjdef,

f Notwithftanding thefe fragmeots of ancient fortifieation, there have been
po battles, in this parifli, of any confe^uence ; but Cre^neot ikiraiiihes between
the clans, Cameron and M^InUjh%

\ Vide Buchanan, b. XI.

I See a good account of him in Pcaant's Tour, fecoad edition.

440 Stattftical Acewnt

lioxnati body*— •The laft man of genius* bora io the parilli,
whom we (hall mention, is Mr. Robert Grat, who bid fair
to flitne, had he lived \ bat, being bom with a delicate con*
fKtation, he literally fell a facrifice to bis third for literature.
He died at Edinburgh, 6th Januaiy 1791**

Adntantages and Difadvantages.^^^JTht great extent of Tea
fiiore has been already mentioned as an advantage to tbe pa?-
riih ; nor are the mild winters, and the eafj communicatioa
with other parts of the world, among the leaft of them. Tbe
pariih, in general, is well provided with excellent peats, which
is the chief foci that is ufed. Fort* William, boweyer, is ill
fupfJied wjtk this n^ceiTarj article. And, indeed, were the
duty taken off coals, none who live upon the (bore would bum
any other fuel. Thus^ much time, that ts now unavoidably
taken up in procuring the article of fire, would be faved ; an<t
many bands might be employed in filking, and other ufeful
occupations, that, at prefent, are neglefted. Another great
difadvantage, but not peculiar to this pariih alone, is the dut^
upon fait. There are other inconveniences and difadvanta*
ges, that are peculiar to this pariih, efpecially to Fort-William
and Maryburgh, but which could be removed without anyi
great expence. Some of thetie are, the want of a quay, of a

regttlaf

« In a few days after, the fonowmg diarader of him appcacsed in the papert:
«< Oa Sunday laft died here, at the age of ao, Mr. Robert Gray of Lofs, late
"* prefident of the Rd^tiI Medical and Royal Phyfical Societies, Edinburgh, moft
•« fiscerely bmented by the whole Univerfity. It is difficult to fay, whether
** more admiration was excited by his acquisition in erery branch of fcience, at
^ fo early a period, or more loye and efteem by the fincerity and difintereficdneb
^ of his friendship, joined to the moft amiable and engaging manners. The
«* heart-fek grief of his fellow ftudents, who h^ve often been delighted by his
* eloqoence, and inftmdted by his erudition, is the moft unequiTocal teftimony
** to hii worth, and will long continue to be the moft flattering tribute to his mcr
^ ri€, though it may embitter the lolii foibuned by his relatioo^**

^fKilmalie.r 441

tegular weekly market, of good water, of a tannerj, of a
iaw mill, and of a manufadorj,

Vropofed Imprtfvements. — In ftormy weather, yeflfek, Ijin^
at Fort William, are obliged to unmoor, and crofs to the op-^
poiite fliore : where, indeed, there is a pretty fafe harbour, and
good anchorage, called CamufnugauL This is always attend-
ed with additional expence and lofs of time, and fometimes
the veflels receive damage upon the banks. All this could
be avoided, if only 400I. were laid out in building a proper
quay. But, fmall as this fum is, the merchants of Fort Wil«
liam are unable to advance it. The Duke of Gordon, who
is proprietor of the place, is the only perfon from whom
ainftance can be expeded. But the necefllty, or utility of
fuch a work, has never been reprefented to him. There is a
Hill greater necefllty of eftablifiiing at Fort William, a weekly
market for butcher meat and other articles. For want of
this, people feldood have it in their power to purchafe frefli
meat; and all winter andfpring they feed upon £alt provifions*
This could be eaiily remedied, an^^'Q^^ ^^ ^^^ neighbouring
iheep farmers would find it their intereft, were they to fell
fome of their flock to a butcher in the place.

Abundance of good water could eafily, and at a imall tx*
pence, be conduced by pipes. This ought to be done by
6oTer»ment, becaufe the garrifon is much worfe fupplied
thaa the village.— The only objeAion, againft a tannery, is,
that there are too few cattle killed in the country, for keeping
fuch a work going. But, then, would it not be an eafy mat-
ter to import undreflfed hiies, and to un them here? This
is done in other place8.--Agatnft the ere&ion of a faw millp
there can be no folid objeftion. There was one formerly on
the river Archaig ; but it did not anfwer the purpofe, on ac-
count of its diftance from the garrifon i and was therefore

Vol. VIIL 3 K difcontinued

^i Statiftlcal Account

difcontinued. A vaft quantity of timber is imported yearly
to Fort William, and 6 fawcrs are conftantly employed about
it: Whereas a mill would faw more in a few days, than all
t\t 6 would do in a twelvemonth. It ftiould be built upon
the Nevis, within a few yards of the foot.

What would be of ftiU greater benefit to this pariffi, and
likewife to all the furrounding countries, would be the efta-
blifhment of a manufadory of coarfc woollen cloth. If
nations confider the exportation of raw materials, as one of the
greateft difadvantagcs and misfortunes, is it not to be regret-
ted, that lo.coo ftones of wool fliould be annually exported,
from this parifii alone, to Liverpool, and other ports of Eng-
land, whence it is fometimes returned to ourfelves, after it is
wrought into cloth ? Thus the Englifli roanufaawrer and
merchant arc enriched by the produce of our country, while
hundreds of our own people are idle and unemployed through-
eut the whole year*.

But the improvement that would be of the greateft advan-
tage to the parifh, and indeed to the whole kingdom, would

• This extreme tar£me/s in improwiiumtt muft, in a great degree, be attributed
to th« want of public fpirit, and of liberal fcntimcnts, in many of the landholders;
for whofc benefit it may not be improper to infcrt the following lines, com-
pofcd extempore, a few years ago, by a gentleman, a highland proprietor, wbe«
at Laurencekirk, on his way to Edinburgh, by way of apoftrophc to Lord

Gaedenstone :

«« If Rome, from a dirty and mean paultry village,

•* Arofc to fuch grandeur, by pluiRler and pillage,

« What may not the Patron of Laoebncekiek hope,

« Before art& and fcience and induftry drop ?

'< Had our Lords, or our Lairds, but the half of thy merit,

" The tenth of thy fcnfc, or the twelfth of thy fpint;

** Our -poor would be rich, and our rich would be great»

" And quite independent of VBoniem of fiate.*' '

nfKilmaTte. 443:

be, to cut a canal between the weft and eaft feas. Without
aid from government^ it is too great' an undertaking for pri-
vate individuals. It could eafilj be accomplifhed ; for there
are 3 large lakes intervening, viz. Lochy, Oich, and Nefs,
where (hips of the line might fail. Two miles of drj land
are the utmoft diftance, following the courfe of the lakes and
rivers ifluing from them, betwixt Fort William and Invernefs.
The channels of the rivers would require to be made deeper
and wider^ and in fome places, no doubt, altered entirely.
Were this paflage opened, the long and dangerous navigation
bj the Pentland Frith would be avoided. — Another canal, from
the head of Locheile to Loch Sheil, would be of verj great ad-
vantage to this parifli. The diftance, between thefe two lochc^
is between 3 and 4 miles of a foft mois. From Loch Sheil a
river runs into the fea of about a mile long. The benefit of
fuch a canal would be experienced by all navigators, going
from the north to the Cljde ; the dangerous point of Ardna*
murchan would not then be dreaded bj them.

Manner of living prior to the year l^6^. — ^AU the arable
ground was carefully cultivated, and fowed, moftlj with oats.
If the returns were few, the rents were low. Farms were
divided into (mail proportions among the occupants; jet their
cattle were grazed in cosounoo, every tenant having cattle'ia
proportion to the (bare of rent which he paid. The cattle
were neverthelefs appropriated, and each had his own, and
their fruits. Befides black cattl^ they had a few (beep and
.goats ; out of which| they could, at any time, afford to take
part for. the ufe of their families. And, as they had plenty
of milk, butter and cheefe, and a good deal of oats, they
lived very comfortably. In return, they were always ready
to perform for their landlords every kind of fervice. This
was rarely an iovoluntary fervicp. For, when they had the

3 K 2 felicity

444 Statffiical Account

felicity to have a good maftcri their attachmcat to him waa
ftrong and ardent. . Inftanoes of foch are fredi ia the Bfteaaory
of many living : and diere have been fraprUtan^ t»bo m^wer
rtmaveJ m t0MaMi ; and tetumiSy who luwr famght a dif charge
for ihnr rents* Landlords^ wbeo indu^eat^ a&aallj pofiefie«l
all the authority and love of a nagiftratey of a protedor and
a fsither. In thofe days, however, the tenaata weie ill lodged^
and as ill clothed.

Manner of thing npon Sheep Farms ^ amto 1791.— ^The peo«
pie fubfift, as may naturally be expcded, in a graat meafute,
upon the offals of the flock. If they live apart, as herds,
they have each a ftone of oat-meal per week, from the pof-
feflor, together with grafs for a cows, and 70 (heep ; and
they may plant as much potatoes, for their own ufe, as they
can cultivate. They Hve very comfortably, and generally
fave fome money. They are well accommodated in clothes
and bedding ; which is a confequence of their mere eztenfive
commerce with the world, and of the abuodanoe of wool.
Travelling the hills, to look after the iheep, is their ufual em-
ployment ; excepting at the fmeafingaod ihearing feafona, when
they gather them all down to the low grounds, and take them
by parcels for thefe parpofeB.^«-Shepherds, who live in their
mafters houfe9,-have their maintenaace, and grafs for 70 iheep,
or fo. Their allowance and profits are far fuperior to thofe
of domeftic work fervants» Their flieep are marked for
themfelves, and the produce fold coaomonly with |he matter's,
and at the fame price*.

CbataSer.

' Cef vMils ftrc kept, cilht r fur tending aod mMagbg ibeep, w for bhck o^«
tk. The former are few bi proportioD : two Ihcpherds are fufficient for aof
ordinary J^mn, capable oF grazing 1^60 Ibeep. If they live in their mafter'a
honfe, they have, bed des their maintenance, grafs for 70 Ihecp. If thelbcp*
%erd be married, and \Uf a fan^hr of b>s own, In Im j^raiaior « cow, and'^

9^t^

tfKilmalk. 445

ManUd l^iriii^VpoA At lea coftft, the people are £and of
• fea-lariiig life. Tbeir difpofidom, however, kads them to
^blight mere ia the fonad of the pipe, aad in the claog oC
arms, than in the majidly of the tempeft ; thinkiog it moio
honourable to ferve in the field of ^f ars, than in the empire
ef Neptune. By aa aothentic regifter, it appears, thatt daring
the war io i7S^i KUnalie and KiloMwaWaig pariflies, between
theao* fumi&ed 750 men to the armj and navj. It b almoft
eteedkb to faj» that the naftivea of Lochaber prefer enlifting
ia Highland rogimeans; and it i$ perhaps eqpMj £0 to snentioaf
what vadour and coadnft thegr have dsfphiTed, and what glorjr
they have acquired, tader pnident commanderfl. The Legif*
kture would then farely aft wifely^ hj encouraging liich a ufe*
ful and warlike faodj of mea, to remain in their native countrj.
N^ ftepv however, has hilberlo been taken £ar that purpofe ;
aod the fyAem adopted b/ Ae laodlojsd^ of fanmng »thdr

ftieep, or diereal>oat« and a ftone of meal per week X All of which are jcqual
to about soL-^if a fcivant be employed for the purpofcs of hufbandry, and,
fivet by himfelf, imth a famOy, ^ut ready to anfwer when called on» to affift
ia the wsi% ol the fana, he k paid u foUowt t

Graft f or a oow% Talaed at - « - -iMftioa
Ditto for ao iheep, valued at - - • - a.oo
Lands for potatoes, devalued at • • - •zoo
Maintenance, when working for hit matter, vahied at - 3 lo a
Oat4neel, 3 i-half bolls,^nedat - • • - a iS 4
Piih, S o •

h.t6 18 4
He hu alio the ofe of hit n»ftfir*t hories.

Upon bhck eatde farms, the wages are fomething different. Bomeftic fer-
fiat men hiv« fram 5L to 6L ; women, from 50». to 3!, In harreft, 4>r in
time of eatdag pciai» the men have tt.pgr day, and the woaon lirsn 6d* to
idtf with their diaper.

446 Statiftical Account

eftates, tends to extirpate and compel them to leek bread ia
foreign climes. Admitting that thej receive employment in
the Low Conntries, debility and effeminacy would there fbon
cxtingnifli their heroic fpirit and martial ardour.

Mi/ceUatuousOb/enuUiomi^'-^'The greateft height, which any
individual in the pariib has attained, is 6 feet ji inches, with--
out flioes and dockings. The general fize of the people is 5 feet
7t inches; they are tight and well>built. — ^There are 2 four wheel
' chaifes, one of them belonging to the vintner at Fort William,
which he lets to travellers : There are other 3 kinds of ma-
chines of two wheels each ; one of tfaefe alfo beloogs to the
fame vintner. There maybe about two dozen carts. Sledges
are chiefly ufed in leading home hay and com. Peats, for
the moft part, are carried in creek upon horfeback. — ^There
are between 80 and zoo boats i|i the pariib. Of thefe, 60
belong to Maryburgh ; where there are alfo 4 floops, from ao
to 40 tons, and z brig of 200 tons. — ^There are 8 ftated fer.i
ries ; 5 of which are on the fait water. — Bridges and govern-
ment roads are in a good flate ; but the countxy roads, which
are carried on at the ezpence of the counties, have been, and
ftiU are, much negleded. The ftatute labour is commoted at
6d. per day.— In Z782 and Z783, the parifli was remarkably
wen fupplied with provifioos. The Duke of Gordon fent
two cargoes for its relief, one of peafe meal, and the other of
potatoes ; and the CommiiEoners of the Annexed Eftates fent
two. more, one of oats and peafe, and the other of potatoes.^—
There are no ale-houfes in the pariih, but many whi&y rci*
tailors. Indeed they are fo numerous, that they are anuifance,
and tend, very much, to encourage idlenefs, and to corrupt
the morals of the people. In Fort- William there are two
inns ; and, in almoft every other houfe in Maryburgh^ whiiky
is fold. — ^Therie are 4 (ludeots attending univerfities. — ^The

prevsiliog

of Kiimatie. ^ 447

prevaUiog name in the parifli is Cain^ro/i.— -There have been
two ioftances of fuicide *•

NUMBER

* The f<^owing charaifter of the people, drawn up by a friend of the incum-
bent's, does not feem to err, on, what i* too commonly the cafe, the fide of par*
tialhy ; and it is therefore given, as in general the clergy are accufed of having
tranfmitted accounts, rather too &vourable, of the manners and morals of their
parifluonefB.

Cbara&er rf H>e PtopU,^-'-f* They are fometimes accufed of being given t*
^ change ; but many inftances of fteady and unihaken fiieudihip are not want*
** ing. In profeffioos of fcindnefs they are profofe; and their fincerity, in gene*
** ral, is more to be depended on, than is nfual on fuch occafions. They are
** inquifitive, but (more efpeciaUy after having had the advantage of fooie in-
** tercourfe with the world at large), diilinguifhed by the politenefs of their
** manners, and the infinuation of their addrefs : Fond of fauntering in idlenefii^
^ but left addided to a roving life than heretofore : Though jkior, iadined ta
** indolence ; and though naturally fitgacions and intelligent, yet not in general
" learned : Left revengeful and implacable than formerly, and, now, more dii^
<■ pofed to determine matters by litigation, than by arms ; family diffenfipnt
M imbitter not their lives, as in the feudal times : Impatient of refiraint ; yet,
.** when under a proper leader, in whom they have confidence, invincible by
** latigue, cold, or hunger : Intrepid, equal to any race of men ever known,
'* in the midfi of the greateft dangers : Lefs hofpitable than of old, (indeed
« the old exertions of hofpitality are not now fo necefiary as formerly ;) but
*< when feafis are prepared, the cheer is good : Spirited in a high degree to
" prdmote works of public utility : Chariuble and willing to relieve the dif>
'* tretfed, as £ur as their circumfiances will admit of: Though no ftrangers to
** the power and influence of religion, yet rather wgit to undervalue its holy
^ ordinances: Fond of fpirituous liquors, yet feldom habitual drunkards:
" They deferve praife for their continence ; but are rather addided to fwear-
«< ing.— •Thefe are fome of the predominant traitt ; and though there muft be
^ a great variety of cfaarader among 4,aa5 perfons, yet there are, in this dif-
" triA, no inconfidenble proportion of perfons, diftlnguiihed by their gen&-
'< rofity, humanity, difintereftediiels, benevolence, hofpitality^tempenocei piety,
'< and religion."

448 Statifiicai Actcount

NUMBER XXV.
PARISH Ot TORRYBURN.

{County and Synod of Fife — Prejbytery of JDumfirmlint)
My the Ri^. Mr. Davib BALfom.

EreQioH and Name.

THE parifli) mw known by the name of Toriybuni, in«
eludes the pariflies of Torry and Cromhie. When their
union took place, cannot be afcertained ; but it appears, from
certain papers relating to the flipend, that it muft have been
before the year 1623. The name of the former, ^orry, figni-
lies, in Gaelic, the King\ Height^ and, with the addicion of
ium^ the Scotch word for a rivulet, is now the general name
of both. This addition feems to have been fuggefted by a
(aalX ftfeam, which runs along the fouth eaft part of the prin«
cipal village in the parx&, and divtdes the two btronies of
Torry and Crombie*.

Situation
3

* The namet of the pUces, in the parUh, are partly Englifli, and partly Gaelic.
The EngUfli aamei are ea^refliTe, either of the local fituatxoa, or of the pame

if Torryburn. jj.49

'SituaHion ^nd Eacitni.'^t lies od the weftem extremitj of
the county ^f Fife* Its extent is incooiidesabley beiog only,
from £• to W. about 2 miks, the fame in breadth on the
euit tjoareer, and nearly the fame on the weft^ if the lands*
ivhich are in the parifh only quoad facra^ are included* From
N. W. to S. £• it will meafure between 4 and 5 miles.

SM and Cnhvoation. — The foil, throughout the parifli, is
naturally good, and in general well cultivated, particularly the
lands of Torry, all of which are iodofed, and in the higheft
ilate of improvement* Thrfe lands, when laid down in grars,
make excellent pafturage. The fucceffion of oops on the
Torry eftate, (mod of which is at prefent in the hands of cIkT
proprietor), is in general as follows : — turnips, barley, red
clover, wheat, beans, oats. The ground is well dunged for
die turnips, and well limed for the wheat. . This method of
cropping, has been found to fucceed very welL The lands, in
general, let from 20s. to 40s. per acre—The time of fowing
peafe, beans, and oats, is from the middle of March till the
middle of April. Barley is commonly ibwn in the month of

Vol. VIII. 3 L May^

«f tbe original proprietor. Thus, MMrJUi^ fituated on tbe ikk of a moor ; Gny
Cmgt, fituated aear a ftoae ^lumry ; AFtfteuw Mow, a row of faoufes fituatqd
aear where a mill oocc ftood; Kjuwahead^ fituated on the top of a rifiqg

, ground ; AmuJUld^ the field of Ann. The Gaelic names^ tcrry^ (above -mention-
ed) ; Jnxiivar^ z plaet fitn from a diftaiuei Dntmji/i, or rather ^a, the ridge of

' Fingal, and piobably Crvmbie and Pii/wlU.r^'Vhttt were two perfont belongfaig to
this place, who accompanied Lord Anfon in his voyage round the world, in the
years i74X-s-3, and who came to Engknd with him in the year 1744. The
proportion of prize-money, which, in the oourfe of this expedition, fell to the
ihare of one of thefe men, was pretty confiderable. Upon his return home, he
purchafed a fmall piece of ground, and built a houfe upon it, which he called
button, after the beautiful and fertile ifiand of that mne m the Pacific Ocean,
and to which the crew of the CaitMrtM, the Commodore's fliip, and the only
revniabg one of the fquadron, owed their prefervation.

450 Statifiical Account

Mzjf turnips in June^ and i/vheat in the months of September
and Odoben In early feafons, the harveft commences aboat
the middle of Auguft ; in late ones* about the beginning of
September ; and the crops are generally got in hy the end of
Odober. — ^In the jear 1781, the fields were not entirely clear
before the middle of November.

Climate and 2)^a/!*j— — The fituation of Torrybum is healthjr
and pleafant, and the inhabitants live to a confiderable age.
There are feveral perfons to be found at prefent above 8o«
There are no difinfes in the pariih which can be called ende-
mial, or peculiar to the people. They are fometimes afflided
with fevers, but thefe feldom prove mortal.

Coalsf &c. — ^In the lands of Torry, the property of Sir
William Erlkine, there are many different feams of coal, of
various qualities and thicknefs. Great fields of thefe coals
are ftill to work, (particularly the main coal of Torry, which
is of the heft quality), but they are all under level. The lands
of Crombie were found to contain 6 feams of coal, of a quality
much the fame with that of the Newcaftle, and, like it, turn-
ed out fmall. The feams above the level are wrought out.
Farts of the others ftill remain, but cannot be wrought but
with the afliftance of a powerful engine. The following table
of the thicknefs of the various feams of coal, in both eftates,
was furniOied by a gentleman, who was proprietor of the one,
and had a leafe of the other.

TORRY/

Feet.

Ret.

'11 main coal

' 7

9 Thitcoaihasneitherfinoke)

6 nmr flame, and is ufed only

CROMBIE

4
4

3 ParrotcMl

• »

^ a

Befides

of Torryburn. 4^1

BeCdes thefe difiSsrent feams, there is, on the north parte
of Torrj, a fine parrot coal, in thicknc& 4 Ceet, which
is very valuable, and is faid to fell in the London market, at
a higher price than anj other. — There is alfo very good iron
ftone in the pariih, fome of which has been wrought.

Po/«£i/ioi»«— This parifli, though inconfidcrable in regard
'to extent, is pretty populous. Upon a furvej of the inhabit*
ants, taken laft year (1791), they amounted to 1,600 fouls. The
return to Dodor Webfter in 1755, was 1,635. The follow-
ing table will (hew the medium of marriages, births, and bu-
rials for the laft ao years.

Tears. Mar. Births. Bar.
I77» ao 75 34

6»

1780

I3»

709

436

Ann. Av. near

ly 13

43'

Tears.

Ma^. Births. Bor.

X78»

63 44

60 t%

66 34

»3

6% 56

57 36

66 56

5% %%

54 4%

1790

43 59

57 40

^Z5 580 451

Anii.AT.Bearly 13 58 45

From this comparative ftatement, it appears, by the births,
that the population of the parifh has been upon the decreab
during the laft zo years, which is aftually the cafe. In the
firft period, the coal in the eftate of Crombie was wrought
to a pretty confideryble extent ; but, when it began to fail,
numbers of the workmen went to collieries in the neigh-
bourhood; and at prefent, very few families of them remain in
the pariih. With regard to the deaths, (tho mediums of which,
in both periodsi are nearly equals andwbich, in the laft, ought

3 L a to

45 z Statiftical Account

to have dimifiiflyd in proportion)^ it niiift be oUCenred, AaC
tfaofe people who have left the pariihy ftill continae to havj
their dead here, whofe intertnevts, without diftioAiois are ii^
ferted in the regifler, aloi^ with tholie of aAnal parifluoners.
It appears, from the regifler of the dead, which was begun ia
this parifli in February 1096% that in the year 1697, 114
died ; and that of theie, 76 died in the months of Janoarj^
Febroarj, March and ApriL In the year 1699, 81 died ; of
whom 40 in the months of September, Odober, November
and December. This vaft mortality is accounted for by a-
dearth f , which prevailed, more or leis, for 7 years in the end
of laft century ; at which period alio, great numbers of fifli-
are faid to have been thrown in upon the coaft ; of thefe the
people eat immediately from the want of other food, and there-
by became the prey of dyfenteries, and other putrid diforders.
—The great body of the people is compoled of day labour-
ers tj mechanics, and failors*

Proprietors and Rent. --^There are 14 heritors in the parifh,
4 great, and 10 fmalk The valued rent, as appears from
• an extra^l taken from the cefs hooks of the county, amounts
to 5,1841. Scotch. There are fome lands, in the pari(h only
quoad facra^ the valued rent of which is 889L 33. 4d. Scotch.

Church and Schools, — The value of the living, including a
glebe of two acres and a half, amounts to between 80L and 90L

Sterling.

* The medium of deaths might then be about Al«

f The meal is faid on that occalion, to have been fo high as as. per peck.

\ Day labourers earn, in fammer, is. per day ; and, in winter, 9d« or lod.
Wrights and mafons, is. 8d. ; and the wages of plowmen-arc from 61. t» SI.
par annnm. The wages of wooMn, are, for turnip weeding, and hay maUii^,
^d.j and {hearing in harvcft, yd. and 8d'^with their provifions.

aftorryburn. 455

Sterling* The patron is the Rev. Dr. John Erlkine of Car*
nock^ one of the mtnifters of Edmbnrgh. — There i« a good
parodiial fchool here for the following branches of education:
Latin, Englifliy writing, arithmetic, navigation and book-
keeping ; befides a Sabbath evening fchool, which is fupport-
od by fubfcription, and is at prefent in a flourilhing condition^
and well attended.

Poor <— The nnmber of perfons at prefent on the poor's^
roU amounts to 50 ; 15 of thefe receive each from 3d. to 6d.
per week; other 15 are allowed 41. Scotch, to enable them to
defray their honfe rents ; and the remaining ao »are thofe»
who, though in lels indigent circumftances, fland in need of
fome affiftance, and receive from time to time, according aa
the funds will allow. The funds, froo^ whence thefe payments
are made» arife, chiefly, from the weekly cpUe&ions at thet
church doors, and the profits of the mortcloth, wh?ch amountt
in all, to about jol. Sterling yearly.

Shipping and ^raJlr.— There are 13 veflels belonging to
this place, viz. z fbip, 3 brigs, and 9 (loops ; whofe burdens^
put together, amount to upwards of xooo tons, and give em-
ployment to about 70 feamen. The larger veflels are engag-i
ed in foreign trade. The (loops are coafters \ but fome of them
occaiionally go up the Baltic for wood and grain. We have
a pa(rage boats, 'the largeft of which was built by the mer-
chants of Dunfermline, principally for the purpofe of tian-
porting to Borrowftownnefs their manufa&ured diapers, which
are brought here in carts, and carried to London by the Bor-
rowftownnefs traders, and for bringing over the goods, which
come for them by the fame conveyance : And the other is
chiefly employed in importing commodities fortheconfumption
of the inhabitants. There are no manufaSures in the pari(h ;

but
3

454 Statiftical Account

but there is a coniiderable quantitj of yam fpun for the ma*
nu&ftiirers in Dunfermline^ which brings into circulation
here, to the amount of between 400L and 500]. Sterling yearly.

jintiquiti€S.^^TheTt are no natural curiofittes in the parilh,
and its antiquities are but few. In a pretty extenfive plain
field, N. £• of the village of Torryburn, there is a fiat ftone,
raifed upon one end, of a ihape nearly oblong, £nd meafuriog,
from the furface to the top, about 8 feet,* and about 4f in
breadth* Round the edge of it there is a deep circle, and on
each of the fides a number of ridges, all of which wear the
appearance of art and antiquity. At about x8 or ao paces
from this 'ftone, there is a number of fmaller ones, which,
,from their prefent pofition, feem to have formed part of a
circle. This place is thought to have been the fcene of a
battle in ibme former period, atid thefe ftones to mark the
graves of fome of the chiefs, who had fallen in the engage,
ment. And the fuppofition is rendered highly probable
by the name which it ftill bears, To/Ast^i, which is evident-
ly a corruption of the Scotch word 7Wsu>, which fignifies a

9Ljlgbt.

In the church-yard, there is part of an epitaph, which,
from its fingularity, and at the (ame time beautiful fimplicity,
appears well worth prefervation. When the prefent incum-
bent entered to his benefice, it was entire upon the grave
ftone ; but a gentleman, whofe property the burying ground
now is, perhaps from inattention, caufed part of it to be
erafed, in order to make room for infertbg the deaths of
fome of his relations. The following is the epitaph in-
tire, as originally compofed.

EPL

0f Torryburn. 455

EPITAPH.

'* At anchor now, in Death's dark Roai^

*' Bides honeft Captain Hiix,
•< Who ferv'd his king, and fear'd his God,

** With upright heart and will.

** In focial life lincere and juft,

'* To vice of no kind given;
** So that his better part, we trail,

** Hath made the Port of Heavev.**

NUMBER

456 StMtifiical Jcamnt

NUMBER XXVI.
PARISH OF FERRY-PORT-ON-CRAIG.

(^County and Synod of Fifew^Pre/hyUry of St. Andrew's.^

By the Rev. Robert Dalglerh of Scotfcraigt D. D.
Minijler of tbefaid Parijb.

EreBion and Name.

THIS parifli was ere&ed bj an a£t of the i8th parliamea(
of King James VI. in the jear 1606. There is a tra«
dition, that the village Ferrj-Port-on- Craig belonged to the
neighbouring parifh of Leuchars, previous to that period, and
had a chapel of eafe, though no record can be found old enough
to authenticate this fa&. So ftrongly is the tradition thereof
imprefled on the minds of the people, that the fuppofed
foundation of this chapel, ever fince that diilant period, has
to this day remained unplowed, in the midft of a well cul-
tivated field, named the Chapel, — The pariih has its name
from its local fituation. There is a public paiTage over the
Taj, from the village of Ferry-Port- on-Craig on the fouth,
to Broughtj Cadle, which ftands oppofite, on the north bank
of the river. This paffage was named Ferry^Port^on^Craig^
to diftinguiih it from the many other ferries in this part of
Scotland. There being at that time no pier, or quay, on either

fide

#» ■''»■' "... . -. , •

of Ferry-Port- on- Craig. 45 7

bde of the river» wh^re the paflage boats might (hip paflengers
or horfesi it was the cuftom to boi^ horfes at the point of a •
vraigf or rock, whence the nsufie Fefry^Port'On-Craig.

JFVrry,— iBefore the bridge was built over the Tay at l^ertb»
ibis paflage was iiiiiich frequented by perfons of all ranks ;
but fince that period « &wer jieople travel this way, and the
road has become almoft deferied* The drovers, however, ftilf
frequently pafs here, having ^«)od oonVeniency for their cat-
tie on both fides, of the river. It is, indeed, efteemed one
of the fafeft paflages <§ver the Tay, there being no inftance
(in the memory of the oldeft man alive}', of a paffage boat
being caft away croffing from the village of Ferry-Port-on-
Craig to Bmcbty Gaftle ; though th6 rivet at diis piffage
U reckoned two miles broad. IClie pt^fent freight for a man
is ad. ; and for a horfe 4d., when they go tn the birth boat*.
It Was often found to incdnvemeilt an^ dangerons to boat
iiorfes from a raggied ctaig, that the Legitfatare interpofetf
their authority, ordaining the fibers to make jSrrj-^/ to their
boats/ (by which is meant a kind of timber platform^ to be
kid from the moft proper part of the cratg, to the gunwale o^
the boat), for (hipping horfes with more eafe and Cafety.
Thefe briggs were always u&d at this ^affiige, till fome time
ago,' diat piers wtre baih for the cdoveuieooe of patfengers,
and fecurity of horfes ; bu^ the brigges M i}iH kept, and
ttfed occafipnally at dmes, when high winds and tides oblige

Vot. Vltt. 3 Mf the

*llm n an •£ of die 7di ysBltiuttant ^ Xlas jmimVEL idd at Edia^
burgh, Bday ^ 1474, r^pabtJBg dthor |Hd£igti^.Mi mcadcd to tbit io tbcfe*
words : *■ And at the >«^i^Ciidj|pr,'aat fkugr lir ihi man, and the bodb ane
** ptonj I ADd <inhat ferrieri that doia an the contxarie, fiiU pay fowty fhillinga
** to the King, and hSt peite ^rilcmed at the will of Uie King : And that the
^ fertieMaMikehritgeitoilitif boatea, dUr the fanai <if the ads nui&d of be--
'* foM, uiuier the pabe eWiteined la the iaou^

458 . ' Statyiical AccoutU

the boatmen to (hip horfes at a rock or craig. This paflkirs
is 4 miles farther eaftward, and nearer the ocean and month
of the river, than the fiafiage at Dnadee. It is private pro*
pcxljf being part of the cftate of Scotfcraig.

Siination^ Surface^ Village^ \3c. — ^Thb pariih is fituated on
the fouth fide of the river Tay, and ftretches along the fonth
bank of the river, from its mouth, where it empties itfelf
into the German ocean, 5 ftatttte miles from £:. to W. It is
irregular as to its breadth from N« to S«, being in fome places
one mile, and at other places not above half a mile broad.
On the £. the furface is flat and low. Though there are n#
remarkable mountains, yet towards the W* it is high and
rockjr, where, the hills have not foil enough for cultivation.
They are moftly covered with whins and fliort grafs, the
bare rocks appearing but in few places* Where the pariih is
^ bounded bj the German ocean, the ihorc is fandy ; but where
it is bounded by the river, it varies, being in fome places
laody, in others covered with fea gravel. At the village it is
a rocky fhore. The parifli contains the houfe of Scotfcraig,
(where the family refides), four farms, with their cottaries^
and the village of Ferry-Port»on*Craig, frooi whence the
parifli has its name. The greateft number of the parifhioners
live in the Ferry, where the church and manfe are both fitu-
ated, and are very centrical forthej^ariihioners.

. JExtintf &f7, mS Produc9. — From a map of the parifli^
it appears there are in it 2,016 Scotch acres. The foil is of
various kinds, coufifting of day, flrong add Kght loam, fimd^
,%oA links. The crops that are beft adapted for the clay,
to produce the greateft profit, are, wheat, beans, barley,
grafs, and oats. Flax is fown to very good advantage ; but^
<)& the whole,- it is rather an uncertain crop i it likewife pro-

-,.• duces

ef Firry^Part-oti-^Craig. 455

daces potatoes, but the quality is generally not fo good as in
light foils. The ftrong loam Itands on a whin rock ; and', where
there is fnfficiencj of foil, it produces wheat, oats, beans, bar*
ley, grafs and potatoes, in great perfe&ion. Flax is fometimes
fown OB this foil, but feldom proves a good crop. The light
loam is founded mi (and, and produces barl^j, grafs, oats, po-
tatoes, turnips and flax. This foil produces the two laft arti-
cles, in a moift feafon, very abundantly ; but when long tra&s
of dry weather take place, they prove but ppor crops. The
fand produces barley^ grals, oats, rye, turnips and flax ; all
which crops, ia a favourable feafon, turn out far beyond what
a flraoger to the nature of the foil could imagine* The flax
in particular, turns out to be a very lucrative crop. The
links produce a kind of pafture for cattle and (heep, and af«
ford accommodation for the grey rabbits, which, within tbefe
few years, have turned out very valuable to the pofleflbrs, oa
account of the extraordinary demand for their fl&ins, which;
fold at 8s. Sterling per dozen laft yeai:*

Cultivation^ Cattle^ Export^ and Imports^ \3c. — All thei,
tenants now ufe only ploughs drawn by two horfes \ one man
both holds the plough, and drives the horfes with a pair of
long reins. In driving their corn and dung, they ufe carts
drawn by two horfes. The farmers in the country employ
17 ploughs. Cultivating the acres occupied by the feu-
ars in the Ferry, gives fuflicient employment to 3 more, which
makes the number of ploughs ufed in the whole parifli amount
to lo.-^There are 61 working horfes. The greatnefs of their
number is oviing to the villagers in the Ferry, keeping more
horfes than would be fuflicient for the cultivation of the lan4
;hey poflefs, were they always employed in agriculture ; but
they frequently ufe them in drivii^ coals for hire, and fud^
)ike work.:— JOnly \ farmer keeps a flock; they are of the frnaU

3 M a ^^hit^

460 ^tatifiical ^ccofifif

white faced breed, and weigh at an average 22 poniids tlvf
whole carcafe. The fame breed has been kept in that faroi
for many years paft,' without an j changr. The farmers have
in all about 240 (heep ; they pVoduce excellent wool, wbidi
is fold to the people in the neighbourhood at about 15s. Ster.
ling the ftone weight. The pariih exports hmhijf and imports
eat-meal*.' '* ' ' '

Climate and DffifaJis.'^Tht air is reckoped very wholefome.
.The people are generaUj healthy* Epidemical diftempers kU
iota rage here ; the beft evidence of die laluhrity of the air is,
that during 'the incumbency at the prefcnt miniftcr, there
have always been in the village feme old people of 80 yean
snd upwards. There ftre feveral of that age alive jnft now
(OSober 5th t*J9tj. Aliout ' 20 years ago, the ague was fo
frequent, that'few people efcaped it, in a greater or leis degree
tt feme period of life ; f>ut for fome years pafi, it has fearcel|r
made its appearance. Rheumatisms and nervous disorder's
are now moft prevalent. '

Fi/birieL-^Tbtxe ace coniiderable lalmon fiibinga in the
rivet Tay, oppo&te to this pariih. The falmon is eflleemed
of a good quality, being taken fp near the ocean. They are
fold to the Perth merchanta, who fend tbem to the London
market. Tbefe fifliings afford fumnaer'employment for feveral
}iands, and often yield them great retums for their labonr,
and the ezpence laid out in preparing their nets^md other ap*

paratus

* In ordinary fcffi^M, the wheat ftcd footiaaei from the middle a( Septem«
her to the end of Odober ; the rye it fown £rOm ahont the t5th tb the sjtK
•f November ; oatt^ peaie, and beant, from the iitK March to the end of
April ; poutoes are pkated from the X5di to the end of April ; barley ii fiamti
daring the month of May $ mmipa daring the month of June, lie harreft h
sather early; bat in ivet (eafont» the lianreft is both late, and very imcettavi*

of Fcrry^PcrHm^rMg. 4^

j^a]:o8 for the fiibing ; Imt tbc j are not equally pfoduAtw
jpvexy feafoD. Tbej do not begin to fiih for ialmon, jn
tbi^ part of tbe river, til]l about tbe end of April ; and tbejr
ffive over tbe a6tb of iV^guft* There is onlj one bottff
jprew engaged in tbe wbijte fiiberj. Tbe fiibing ground Cnt
wbite fi(b is moftlj witbout tbe river. Tbe fifliermeo ^arrf
tbeir fiih to Dundee % io tbat tbe price of tbe fmall 4ji|antiqr
fold bere, is regulat^ \j tbe market diere ^ but tbis fiihiaf
^as failed mucb for fome years paft. In Ae fuorner aiooths^
great numbers of fmall flounders are caugbt in tbis part of
tbe river, as any perfon is permitted to ufe band lines in tbnt
^fiOiing. It is very ufeful to tbe poor people, wbo bave an opp
portunity of fupplying tbeir families wHb tbefe fiib, at no
^zpence. On the foudi fide of tbis part of tbe Tay, tbese it
^fcalp of a (mail kind of muflels, efteemed good bait for the
white fi(b ; they are purcbalcd for tbat purpqfe by tbe fifiier*
men in tbe neigbbourbood* |n tbe fiinds there is alfo plenty of
fea worms, whieh tbe filhtreaen call Xarj^, and prefer theoa
even to muflels for bait in tbe fnmmer fealbn ; but tbefe
worms fit^k fo deep in the fiuid in winter, that they caimoC
be got. Tbefe fmall mu^els are, therefore, tbe only bait ufel
for tbe white fifliiog, in winter.

MigTfUwy Birds.wJ&cv€T9l kinds of fea fowls frequent the
fhore during winter. £very year, about tbe numth of Aprils
they leave the coaft, to go and hatch tbeir young. They ee^
turn again in tbe month of Augufi, and continue in thte
country till April, when they take tbeir annua;! flight. TI17
are immediately fucceeded by other fea fowlst that make tbeir
appearance here in tbe Ipring, remain during tbe fummer
months, and batch about tbe fliore. In the month of Auguft
or September, they remove from this to their winter habita*
tions. Next feafon, at tbe ufoal time, they pay tbeir annual
' tdfit

Stati/fical Account

▼ifit to this countrj. Thus thej follow each other ia con.
ftaat fucceflioti everj year,

P^fuIatioM^^^lt appears from the pariih roll taken up this
year, compared with a lift made out in the year 1762, that
the village has had aa increafe of 84 familiesy and the coun-
try of 4, within thefe 30 years, in all 88 families ; that the
former has increafed 194 examinable perfons, and the latter
II ; and that the whole pariih has increafed to the number of
205 pcrfons, above 7 years of age, within that period. The
following table exhibits the prefenc ftate of the parifli, and th^
total increafe, within thefe 49 year9«

Nvmber of £E«ulieiy

In the ^rilbge. In the country. . Totals

flo8

Perfoos above 7 years of age, - 569
• ^ below 1 — . • 135

Total, - 704
The retnrn to Dr. Wcbftcr in 1755, was

Number of males above 7 years of age,
— females above ditto.

3»
ISI

171

Number of (ailors * about

fl40
700L

39«
35 . Number of ale fellers, who are

Increafe,

Majority of females,

• weavers, 67-9 t 7^
Wrights, " * 9

• tailors, - - 9
. fmiths, • - 3

• fboemaken, - -5
' bakers, - - 3
^ ale fellers in the vil-
lage, - - 6

brewers, - 3

— -— ^— male labouring fervanta

about - - 35
Annual average of births within

the laft 9 years, * a;}-
— — ditto, marriages, • 6^
— — ditto, deaths, nearly - i&

The

* Thefe are mofily employed id the Dundee merchantmen.

tf FerryPort'-m'Cfaig.

4«J

I'he iiicreaf^ iti population, which is chiefly in the villaget
is owing partly to the neighbouring fanners not inclining to
keep fuch large cottaries as formerly : This has obliged fe-
veral families to come into the Ferry, where they hire foiaU
houfes, and fupport themfelves by their induftiy, either as
tradefnien or day labourers. The great increafe of ftianofao-
tures, has alfo encouraged many young m^n to follow that
line of life, who continue to refide as tradeiimen within the
town*

Abftraft of Baptifms, Martiag^s, and Deaths, as entered in^
the Parifli Regifter, for the laft nine years*

Yciw.

Baptifnu. Mkrriag«t;. Deatht.

1783

18 g

1784

24 ^

S 18

1785

%S i

S 10

1786

31 J

\ a6

1787

a6 •

1 tt

1788

3«

r 13

1789

ftS i

S 15

1790

r t%

1791

1 ft8

In all

x6x

Matiu/aSures.-^Tht prineipal manufafture, is weaving
ooarfe brown linens, of different fabrics. The weavers are
chiefly employed by the merchants of Dundee in manufaAur«
ing thefe linens. They fometimes weave other cloth for
country ufe. The women's work is generally fpinning the
yarn for the& brcMvn -linens. So great is the prefent demand
for fuch linens, ths^ both the weavers and fpinners have more
ift'ork offered them, than they are able to undertake -, and the

wages

466 Staiifiical Acctmnt

fimt irtioibcr, of tbofe tbmt receive aid from the pttblic
pariih fiuid« is about 16. Upon tetting forth, that, firom
extraordioarjr I0&, accidental misfortune, or fadden and fevere
difireb in their familj, any are reduced to fuch a fitoation as
to require a greater interim f apply, than the oidinarj feiBon
funds are able to afford to one familj, then, bj order of the
feifion, an extraordinary coUeAion is intimated from the puU
pit, to be made for their benefit, either at the church doors,
or from boufe to houfe within the pariih, as'circumftances maj
require. Whatever ia colle&ed is given to them, that they
xnaj have afliftaoce fuitable to their prefent urgent neceflity*
Upon a favourable change of circnn^nces, thej again lup»
port themfelves by their induftry, without having recourfe to
fci&onal aid. When they are in fuch indigence as not to be
able to educate their children, the feiSon always pays the
'fehool &es, for teaching them at leaft to read the holy fcrip*
tures \ as they judge it tbejr duty to fee the children of the
poor well educated, and coafider that the beft beftowed duu
lity ,. which procures for them the means of education.

Heritor and iI«ii^««^There is but one heritor, the prefent
minifier, who is proprietor of the whole pari(h. The viU
lagers in the Ferry are all his feners, for their houfes and
fmall gardens : The farms are his property lands.— The va«
ined rcot of the parifli is 2183I. Scotch money* The value
of the rental cannot, with accuracy, be eafily afcertained : a
great part of it being paid in vidual, the value muft vary, ac-
cording to the prices of grain, every year.

Scotfcraig Jlii0Mrx«— The farm of the mains of Scotfcraig

was originally church land, bfslonging to the arohbiOiopric

of St. Andrew's. The Pope, by his bull, allowed the arch.

bifliop to feu out (aid farm at the fum of 1321. i8s« Sd.

3 Scotch ,

of Ferry-Port^QTi^Craig. 467

Scotch, and 4 bolls of peafe. The yearlj value of the peafe,
with the (aid fum of monej, is annually paid to the coUeflor*
of the biihop's rents. It is handed down bj tradition, that a
Mr. Scott, a fon of the family of Balwirie, in Fife^ was the
feuer ; and, to diftinguiih it from other farms called Graigf
he prefixed his own name to it ; hence Scotfcraig. This eftate
was formerly the property, and the houfe the country refidence»
of Archhijbop James Sharp, for many years before his, death ;
and belonged to his fon Sir William Sharp feveral years after
the death of the bifhop. His arms are ftill on the outer gate,
dated 1667.

Antiquity m — ^The only antiquity in the pariih is the re«
mains of an old caftle, in which there are feveral vaults quite
entire. We are greatly at a lo(s to know by whom, or aC
what period it was built, as there is no record to determine,
nor even any traditional account handed down concerning it ; *
but it muft have been after the invention of fire arms, em<
brafures being fo placed, as to carry a line of fire round the
fort. The top of one of the hills is furrounded with the
foundation of an old wall. As, from the top of this hill,
there is an extenfive profpeft along the banks of the Tay, and
the coutitry around, it is fuppofed to have been the place of
fire fignal, in the time of the Daniih incurfions into Scotland ;
but there is no record about it.

^{^/..^There being neither coals, peats, nor wood, found
for fuel, the dependence of the pariihioQcrs for firing, is upon
coals brought from a diftance, either from the frith of Forth,
or by fea, at a confiderable expence. What is called the boll,
which weighs 8 cwt., or 56 ftone Englifh, is fold here at
prefent at 6s. the boll. Though we pay no duty for Scotch
coals, they are confiderably dearer this feafbn, than ever they
were, remembered to have been, which bears hard upon the
3 N a people

468 Stati/Ucal Account

people in the lower ranks of life. Some drive co«ls from
the coal- works in this, coantiy, at the difiance of 9 or 10 fta^
tnte miles, which they fell at 7s. the cart load. Some of the
cottagers, in the country parifh, bum dryed tnrf and whins ;
but they all ofe coal as the principal part of their fad. The
villagers in the Ferry nfe coal only, which they pnrchafe
at the above prices.

CharaBer. — ^The people are peaceably difpoCed, and firmly
attached to the prefent happy civil confticudon of their conn«
try. They all adhere to the principles of the eftabliflied
church of Scotland ; and r^gulady attend divine worfliip in
the parifii kirk, excepting one Unitarian, (who, however, fre«
quently hears fermon with the other parifliioners)^ and one
Seceder ;. both of whom came lately into this parifli from
Dnndee.

Mifcettamtnu Obfervattons, — ^Theye are no lime-ftone quar*
ries ; but lime is brought by fea from Sunderland. It is
fold at the Ferry at xs. 6d. Sterling the boll of wheat meafure,
or 2s. 4d. Sterling the barley meafure. Some drive lime by
land carriage, at the diftance of 10 and 15 miles, which can
be afforded at 3s. xd. the boll, barley meafure. The only
fione, got in this ground, is a hard whin ftone, which makes
firo3g and laftlng work when built with good lime. — There
are two mills for grinding meal, to which the parifliioners are
thirled only for what meal they make, or what malt is brew-
ed wi^in the parilh ; but not for the whole crop of com
growing on the feveral farms. — As there is a conftant weekly
demand for all kinds of country vivres in Dundee, fome per-
fons make it their bufinefs to go through this part of the coun-
try, and gather them up for the Dundee market. The prices
here are, therefore, always regulated by what they fetch

there.-.^

of Ferry-Port'Ott'^raig^ 469

thefe««>-iThis Ferxy is a cnftom-houfe creek» mthin the pre*
cinfts of the cuftom-houfe at Dundee* As it is the loweft
creek in the river, a King's boat, with 6 boatmen, nnder the
command of a tide farveyor, is ftationed here, to board all
veflels coming up the river from a foreign port, for the fecn*
ritj of the public revenue. It is alfo the refidence, appointed
for the ezcife officer of the St. Andrew's fecond ridCf the whofe
pariih being in that divifion.

NUMBER

470 Statifiical Account

NUMBER XXVIL
PARISH OF LOGIE.

{Prejbytery of Cupar — Synod and County of Fife.)
By the Rev, Mr. Robert Bogie.

Situation and Extent,

THE pariih of Logic is fituat^about 3 miles from Cu«
par, (the principal tS^n in t^countj of Fife, and the
feat of the prefbjterj), and about an equal diftance from the
water fide, or Ferrj, to Dundee. It extends about 2I miles
in length from E. to W., and i in breadth from S. to N«,
though in fome parts not quite fo much. The general figure
of the parifliy may be feen in Ainflie's map of Fife.

Surface^ Soily Climate^ \ic. — The country is in general hillj,
but very fertile/ The climate is pretty dry and healthy, except*
ing near the fmall village of Logie, where there is a marfli,
which makss the air damp, efpecially in winter.— .There is a
confiderable mountain in the parifh| called Luckla Hillj upon
which, it is reported, that the kbgs of Scotland ufed to hunt,
and on which account it is called the King*s Park, But of
this circum (lance, there is no authentic record extant. — From
tb^ top of this hill, in a clear day, there is a very exten-

fivc

ofLogie, .471

five profpe£l|^ of Fife, Angus, the Meanis^ loid other
counties.

Cultivation^ Prsduc€^ Catth^ tVooif \Se. — The groi^ad Com-
monly produces excellent crops of every kind of grain* The
farmers fow a confiderable quantity of grafs and turnips,
and have very good returns. Tbey rooftly plow their ground
with horfes ; i|nd oxen are here very Uttle ufed.in hufbandfy.
There are about aS ploughs, with goieraUy a horfes to «
plough, befides what the farmers bring up for their own ufe,
or for fale. Mod of them pay a good part of their remits bj
bringing up young cattle. There are two pretty confiderable
flocks of fheep in the parifh. The mutton is fmall, but the
wool they produce is of a tolerable quality, neither of the
coarfeft, nor the fined fort.

Population. — ^The inhabitants, it is faid, are dinuniihed in
point of number, compared to what they were many years ago ;
and it is certain, that feveral oottages have been puUcd down
fince the commencement of this century ; but within thefe
40 years, there appears to be, upon the whole, very little
variation* The population, at prefent, confids of 3^0 exa-
minable perfons ; which, allowing the ufual proportion for
children under 8 years of age, will make the number of
fouls ...... 425

The return to Dr. Webder, in 1755, was only - 413

Hence there appears to be an increafe of - la

The average of annual birtlii, is

Smiths,

Ditto of marriages, -

Tailors,

Ditto of burials, •

Retailer of fpirits.

- I

In the different profeffions there

Weavers,

«■ 0

are,fannerf,

And, Shoemakers,

».

^ .«

together

^^2 Stati/Had Accmat

fogedicr with Cooie cafpeafeen, mifbosy d^ labcmrers; tod

Fr^friOors amd RemU. — ^Bcfidcs thedme fianll hcritcis
sbovc flModoBed* who icfide in the parifli, and cultivate dieir
mva gnmady there are fix greater proprietors,, who do not le-
fide, whidi is a confideiable lob to the poor* The valacd
scat is 2916L 6s« 8d« SooCeh ; the real reot is not eicadlj
known. The rent of tenSy in general, mn from aos. to 409.
per acre. Some however, have their land 00 more reafaiahlc

Church, f/^.— -The manfe was hnilt in 2736, and has fioce
got feveral partial reparations ; but it is ftiU in a very in.
different ftate. The ftipend ansoonts, on an average, to 8oI«
Sterling per aamun. The glebe confifts of 4 acres arable, and
a acres of a den for pafturage. The King is patron*. There arc
a good many Seceders, who attend f Burgher meeting hoolcy
in the neighbouring pariih of Kilmen j.

School and Poor* — ^A good ichool and fchooLhoufe are now
building, (1793) 9 which, when completed, will be very com-
modious. The falary is only 4!. i8s. 3id., with 50 merks from
a mortification, left in 2690, by Sir James Ramiay, Bart, of
Eafter Logie.— The capital flock belonging to the poor amounts
to 22cl. Serling. The colledions at the church doors are but
very inconfiderable. There are 3 ftated penfioners on the
poor's funds, who get 28. per week, and are paid at that rate

* In i68j, Sir David Balfow of Fomt, one of the Scaaton of the College
of Juftice, beqQeathe4 a large folio Bible, for the nfe of the miniftcr on SondaTi.
It if iUtt is tolerable caD4itio0« aad wm latelj rebouad.

of Logic. 473

by the treafurer erery 5 weeks ; befides which, they get- 58.
ia winter to purchafe coals. The annual coUeftions, upon
an average, including what is drawn on facramental occafions,
do not much exceed 3L Sterling.

Mifcfllaneous Obfervatitms. — ^The people are in general healthy*
There are not a few of 60, 70, and 80 years of age : One
man died lately aged 87, and another 92.— The prices of all
kinds of provifions are nearly doubled within thefe %o years^
or even lefs. Good beef, then, fold at ad. and i^d. per pound }
mutton at 3d. and a good fowl at 6d.— Coals are the only
fuel ufed in this part of the country ; but they have become
very high of late, which the poor feel very fenfibly.

VoL-VUI. 3O NUMBER

474 Statiftical Account

NUMBER XXVIII.

PARISH OF GADDER.

{fiitunty of Lanark — Prejbytery of Glafgov) — Synod of
Gla/gow and jlyr.)

By Mr. William Barclat, Schoolmaftcr.

Na^ey Extent^ and Situation^

C ADDER, the name of this parilh, is derived froai a
Gaelic word, and faid to fignifj the Bad of the Oat
Woody which correfponds exadlj to the fituation of Cadder
Houfe. It is often fpelt Calder, The parifh is 13 miles in
length from £• to W., and between 3 and 4 miles in breadth*.
It lies in the northern eztremitj of the county of Lanark.
The 3 counties, Lanark, Dumbarton, and Stirling, all meet
at the north point of this pariih. The neareft point of it is
3 miles from the citj of Glafgow, within half a mile of the
town of Kirkintilloch, and 3 miles from Kilfjth and Cumber-
nauld. Gartin^ueen Hill, in this parifh, is faid to be at an
e^ual diftance from Hamilton, Falkirk, and Stirling.

River

* There was m map of Cadder drawn in the year I743» from a furref
nude hj Dmi Dowi«| land-furveyor in Edinburgh, but it xi ia few haadft

of€addtr. ^75

River and Canai. — The river Kdvia, which rjfcs eaft of
Kilfjth, runs 6 miles along the northern boundary of the psu
riih ; but its courfe may be 10 or 12 miles» through fine fer*
tile baugh grounds. It falls into the river Clyde two miles
below Glafgow. The Kelvin ufed to overflow its banks in
time of rain, and do confiderable damage, efpecially in feed
dme and harveft i but the* proprietors on the north fide, to
whom it did moil damage, have of late confined it, by a
great earthen mound, for the moil part along its conxiR^^Jlt
might, however, have been a much more effe&ual remedy, had
they firaigbtened, widened, and fecured the bed of the river ^
which would be a great faving of ground.— Tbe Forth an4
Clyde Navigation, comiDooly called the Crutt Csnal^ runs
through the parilb for 5 miles, and has 4 draw bridges on it.

LaiiJ and Roads. — About 9o years ago, a lake, nearly in
the middle of the pariih, was drained by a mine, driven »
full mile in length under a hill. The mine is in many placet
90 fieet bdow the furface, whereby 120 acres of fine arable
ground is gained, which annually produces rich crops, without
any kind of manure— -There is another lake, called the Bs/bop^i
Zactf a mile in length, and one fourth of a mile in breadth,
which is at prefent occupied as a refervoir, by the Great Canal
Company.— The poft road, from Edinburgh to Glafgow, paile3
4 miles through this pariih, and croiTes the Great Canal about
a mile eaft of Cadder kirk. There is alfo a new turnpike road
made for 4 miles, in the eaft end of this pariih, from Glaf-
gow by Cumbernauld towards Falkirk, faid to be confiderably
ihorter than the road by Kilfyth and Kirkintilloch, and with-
out a pull.-— In 1772, when the heritors met to aiTefa the
pari& for repairing the bye roads, they found it to con-
tain 123 ploughgates of land. They alleffed each of thefe
plougbgates in los* Sterling, and is. 6d. for every cotuger^
3 O 2 yearly.

47^ Stati/iicd Account

jearlj. In I791f finding the above alTeflinent infuificient for
making the extent of road neceflary, thej raifed it to xSs.
Sterling per annuniy and as. to eveiy cottager, agreeable to an
aA of parliament for repairing roads in the county of Lanark.

Jliinfro/r.— There are a number of freeftone quarries in the
parifli* The (tones are very fit for building, and take a fine
poliih. There are alfo yaft quantities of whin rocks, very
proper materials for roads* We have an inezhauftible rock
of limeftone, which has of late been wrought to a coufiderable
extent, both at Grankirk and Robroyftone. — No coal^ fit for
working, has yet been dilcovercd, though it is the^opinion of
miners,' and people of flLill, that the feams of coal, which
have been wrought to fo great advantage, in New Monkland
on the £. and New Kirkpatrick on the W. extend through
this pariih. It is to be hoped, that fome public fpirited gen*
tleman will fearch for, and find this hidden treafute*

Reni^ Soilf CukivatiMf Produce^ t^r«-— The Talnation of the
whole pariih, is 61701. Scotch ; and the prefent yearly rent,
may be about 6oool. Sterling. — ^There is no mountain in this
parifli. The whole face of thediftrid is generally level* Yet
we have feveral different foils ; fuch as, light (andy till, deep
earthy and plenty of mofs for >iff A— Improvement of land has
greatly increafed of late, and is ftill goiogon very rapidly, both
by the plough and by manure. Excellentcrops of oats, barley,
clover, and rye grab, potatoes and flaxt are produced. Oats
have fold, before reaping, at 81. as 6d. per acre, and yielded
x6 bolls each acre. Potatoes are much cultivated here, and
ferved up at every table* They are a fubftitute for breads
among the lower dafs of people, for at leaft xo months in the
year j and, with very little attention, they make the old crop
laft, till it is fttcceeded by the new : iqo bolls have been

raifcd

rfCadder. 477

raifed from x acre.— >Bat flax is the moft advantageous crop
here: 200 acres arc fown annually; and this year (1792),
one farmer has fown 30 acres with flax feed : 32 ftones of good
fcutched flax have been raifed from z acre, and fold at a guinea
the ftone ; a price perhaps equal to the value of the land on
which it grew. Riga flax feed, and the fined kinds of Dutch
feed are moftly fown here ; though fome good crops of flax
have been raifed from Bofton flax feed. On rich moift foil,
the fineft flax is raifed from American feed. Fine Dutch, and
large plump America flax feed are reckoned to agree beft with
this clfmate. The quantities, commonly fown on z acre, are,
9f pecks Dutch, 8t Riga, and 8 America flax feed ; this laft
being much fmaller than the others. — ^The improvements in
agriculture, in this neighbourhood, are much owing to the
Great Canal *• Before it was erefied, neither fpade nor bar.
row was ufed to any purpofe* Now, the wheel-barrow,
plank, and fpade, are found at every farmer's door ; and, by
the proper ufe of thefe utenfils, much work is expeditioufly
performed*

Eeclifiafiicat State^'^The whole of this pariib, excepting the
barony of Cadder, and the Midtown of Bedlay, formerly be-
longed to the fubdeanry of Glafgow. The Bifliop's Land was
called the BMermonocb Ward (or McnVs 7ot£^«), and corn-
prehcnds ten townfliips ; each of which contains 8 ploughgates
of land. The mill of Bedlay is ftill the joint property of
thefe 10 townfliips. From this ecclefiaftical tenure, are derived
the names of feveral places in the parifli; fuch as, the Bifi^p^s
Bridge, the Bijbcp's Mofs, and the Bijbofs lAch^^K^xx

the

« The only obJeAion to the Great Ctoal, ii, that it has heen fatal to i%
■lany. No Hewer than fierea, within the bmuida of thia porilh, ha^bcea
drowned ia it fioce it wai opened.

478 Stati/iical Account

the Reformation, the temporalities of the fubdeanrj of Glaf.
gow, which confided of the parilhes of Cadder and Mooklaad,
(the laft of which was afterwards fplit into two pariihes, call-
ed OU and New MonklanJ)^ together with the patronage of
the chttfchei, came into the poflefiion of the noble families of
Hamilton and Kilmarnock, and were by them transferred to
the College of Glafgow, for a considerable fum of monej»
about the|year 1636. — 'pie parifli of Cadder, as well as that
of Monklandy availing itfelf of the %&. of Parliament 1690, by
paying 600 merks Scotch, as direfied in the afi, to the College
of Glafgow, obtained a renunciation of the right of patronage
by that learned body ; in confequence of which, the heritors
and elders of the parifli became the ele&ors of the minifler*
It is a pity, however, that the aft 1690 has not defined pre-
cifely what amftitutes an heritor ; for this defeft has been at*
tended with great inconveniences to the parifli of Cadden
When the church of Cadder was formerly vacant, about the
year 1745, there were keen difputes as to the title of feveral
perfons claiming a right to vote under the charafter of heri«-
'tors ; in confequence of which, the kirk was vacant for near
two ye^rs. And though the late worthy clergyman, who fuc-
ceeded on the occafion, died in June 1790, the church flill coo^
tinues vacant, owing to a warm difpuU^ with refpeft to the
title of a number, who voted at a late eleftioa of a roinifter, and
which is at prefent under litigation before the Court of Sef&on.
It ought however to be mentioned, that the College of Glaf-
gow, who are ftiU titulars of the tiends, upon application be-
ing made to them, generoofly con&nted, much to their honour,
as well as to the benefit of thb parifli, to allow part of the va-
cant ilipend to be laid out, in paying the expence of a preacher,
to officiate at Cadder church during the vacancy, under the
diieftion of the prefl)ytery of Gla(gow..— The living is S chal-
ders, paid in money by the College of Gla%ow, according to

the

of Cadder. 479

the fiars of the commiffariot of Hamilton and Campfie, half a
chalder for communion elements, with a manfe, and about 3^
acres for a glebe, belide grafs for a horfe and 2 cows on the
common. — The manfe was built in 1656, and enlarged and
flated in 17 14, at the joint ezpence of the College of Glafgow,
and the former and then prefent minider. It is now in a
ruinous condition. The church was rebuilt in 1750, but not
finifbed compleatlj till 1784, and is now in good condition.

Poor. — ^The number on the poor's roll is about 15 annually;
moftly aged and infirm women, who have from 6d. to is. Ster-
ling weeklj. Occaiional affi dance is given likewife to poor
families, of from 5s. to los. Sterling at a time. No public
charity is given to any that go about begging, except now and
then a pair of (hoes. — ^The poor's funds arife from the collec-
tions at the church doors, as. 6d. for every marriage, and the
intereft of about jool. Sterling, mortified to the kirk feffion.
Thefe funds have continued, without much iscreafe or dimi-
nution, for near 50 years pail.

Schools, — ^There are 4 public fchools in this parilh, 3 of
which have fmall falaries annexed to them, (z.) The parilh
fchoolmailer has a falary of 100 merks Scotch, paid by the
heritors, and il. 3s. 4d. Sterling, as.feflion-derk and precentor;
with IS. 8d. for each marriage, and ^d. for each baptifm ; be-
fides the ordinary fchool wages, of is. 6d» per quarter, (a.) In
1744, Mr. Patrick Baird, merchant, left a memorial'worthy
of record, bequeathing 3a5K Sterling for eredinga fchool at
Auchenloch, the place of his nativity. He devoted 15I. Ster-
ling of the intereft to be paid annually to the fchoolmafter ;
and il. 5s. to a young man, for preaching a fermon at Auchen-
loch on Chriilmas (which was the donor's birth day), and to
buy books and huns (rolls) for the fcholars. To this dona-
tion.

4^3 Statjfiical Account

doo, John Bairdy late of Auchenloch, ftdded a piece of ground
for ft honfe and garden. All the heritors* poflcfled of a ploo^
of land in the pariih, are patrons of this fchooL (3.) In 17459
Mr. James Warden, late minifter of this pariih, bequeathed
zooo merks Scotch to the ieffion ; the intereft of which is allotted
to the fnpport of a fcb'sol at Aachenaim, the place of his na-
tivity. In 1760, the worthy and humane Dr. William
Leechman, late principal of the Univerfity of Gla^w, dif-
poocd to the feflion of Cadder, about half an acre of ground,
for a houfe and garden for the benefit of this Cbhool, of which
the minifter and elders are patrons. (4.) The fourth IchooU
houfe is at Chiyftone, in the eaft end of the parifli, where a
chapel of cafe was built by fubfcription 11 years ago ; but there
is no falary annexed to it, nor any perquifite for the matter,
excepting the fchool wages, i%» 6d. per quarter.

At each of thefe 4 fchools, there may be, at an average,
30 feholars during the winter half , year, and ao through the
fummer quarter. When there is any vacancy in the harveft^
the fcboolmqfier^s year is only reckoned three garters! J !^^
Thus 100 fchoolars, for three quarters, at is. 6d» per quarter,
pay only aiL los. Sterling per annum, to all the 4 fchoolnuu
fiers in the parifli, for education, which is but ^. i is. 6d.
Sterling to each of them for 9 months attendance. This is
furely too little to fupport, with any decency, a clafs of
men confefledly ufeful, in this expenfive and wealthy age*.
To better the condition of the people of this country, more
3 encou-

* Aboot 50 yean ago, it was the cnftom here, to aUow the pariih rcho<4-
malter to go about with the fcholan, and lodge free with their parents, as he
|iad no houfe of his own to teach or lodge in, but a bam in fummcr, and a cot-
tage in winter. Of late, however, the gentlemen in thu parifli have bnik a
Iduiol-honie, in a comer of the church yard, where the prefent fchoolmafter
lives, who has ferred m that office for 39 years. One of his predeoeffors (Wi^
lUm Stirling), oficiatod here 42 yean. Both ve natxTes of Cadder pariflu

of Caddtr. 481

•acoarigementfliould be given to teachers, to enable them to '
P?7 Proper attention, to improve the morals of youth nder
their care. The want of this, muft more or lefs afieA the
education of the riling generation. When an attempt was
made, fom^time ago, to have the condition of thefchoolma-
fters of this countryfomewhat bettered, the argument, by which
fome lords and gentlemen oppofed it, was, that *' they wiflied
*' parifli fchools were fuppreHed altogether, becaufe their fer-
'* vants were corrupted^ by being taught to read and write 2
^' That they would be more obedient and dutiful^ were they
'' more ignorant^ and had no education t**''—ThtS| however, i^
not the opinion of any gentleman in this parilh* They well
know, that fome ^of the firit and moft refpeftable charaders,
in the nation, have been trained up at country fchools.

Antiquities. — The Roman Wall, or Grabam^s Dike^ is al«
moft the only antiquity we have in this parifh. It runs 4
miles in it, and may ftill be traced through Gadder Wood.
One of the watch towers, on the fouth fide of the wall, about
a gun-lhot from Gadder kirk, is ftill very vifible.— At Rob-
royftone, in this pariifay on the xith September 1303, Sir
William Wallace was betrayed and apprehended, by Sir
John Monteath, a favourite of King Edward I. of England,
by whom he was moft unjuftly and ignominioufly put to
•' Vol. VIII. 3P death

f This illiberal idea is refuted by fad. That igMfoiut cannot be the mo-
ther of moraliiy^ more than of dtvUtoM^ is proTed by eiperience. The good be-
haTiour of the lower ranks in Scotland, in general, contrafted with the immo-
ralities, crimes, and annual executions, of many of the (ame ckfs, in the filler
• kingdom, can be afcribed to nothing fo muth as to the fuperior advanuges, the
former enjpy, of early education, and proper inflmdion, in the firft principles of
moral axid and religious duty. Deprive them of thefe, and they will foon be-
come as great favagesi as the moft ignorant rabble of LvuhM^ Faru, or Birmit^
ham.

482

Statijlkal Account

death at London. After be was ovcrpoweredt and befbre h»
hands were bound, it is faid, be threw his fword into Robroj*
ftone loch. An oaken cowpk^ or joift, which made part of
the banii in whidi the Scotch hero was taken, is ftill to be
feen in this neighbourhoodt and may yet laft for ages.

The following Statistical Table, which was taken veiy
accurately from houfe to hottfe, by tho Parifli Schooknafter
(who travelled 300 miles through the pariih^ ccdleOing thefe
materials, in May 179a), (hews

7i# POPULATIOlTt lie. of the Parijb of CABHEM.

Kvmber of inhatnted houie*, 390
■ ■ empty do* • - zs

- «4»y

— males,
BAajoritj of feaalei^

Population at Kturned fo Dr«

Wehfter in 1755, • - 43^4
Mnmber of fouls, in X79S9 - 1767

Dccrctfe, - $s^

FerfoDs born in the parilb, - 84^
■ under 6 years of age, %%%
— abotc 70 years, - 50
Avem^ of each £unily, • 4f
Annual average ol Inrths for

00 years paft, - - 43,
Ditto of marriages for that

time, - - - >5

Average produce of oidi, • 5
Wages of the beft plowman by
the year, L.z6 c c*

Wages of inferior do. L.is o o*
— — beft maid fer-

▼ants, - 4 o o*

^"••mm^mm^ inferiOT dOb 4 o o*

^ — I — manufaAttrers

perday, o a 5f
■ day labourers,

perday, - OS 4

Knmber of horfes, - 377

' cows, - 11S5

— ^— fliecp, - 13^

Kmnbcr

» « « « N,B. *Tbefi sn thtlr vmgis htJUki Mr mifwait.

t JVhm m^iat'norif tk^ wiaki wmt » fim/nm 30/. h 50/« SttrUng*

of Caddcr. 4J3

Ifiimber of fwjQe, • 41 Um^ of bocyuy {JMcf, be-

— ' doglf - «a» fides Cadderchiirchp

cartty - - a84 . yard, . 4

I plongfas, • 133 « corn milby * 4

• wcftvett looBUy 158 ■ Itat do. - 5

• wufael^ - J07 fio¥ccoteif, » 4
docks, - li« ■ families, all bom In

• dated honfet f , • zS the pariihy - 6

• public do. {, • 15

MifedlaneQus Oi/irvaii^MSw^Vtom the preceding table it
appears, that not one half of the inhabitants have been bora
in the parifh :— That nearly one eighth of them are under fix
years of age : — ^That there is a dog, a clock, or a watch, for
every houfe in the parilh : — ^That there is a eart, or a plough,
for every houfe : — And that there is nearly one horfe, and
more than three cows» for every houfe in it. The cows aro
very produdive. The produce of one cow has brought the
owner loL Sterling in the year.— There is only z four wheel-
ed carriage in the pariih. — ^There is a threfhing machine, which,
with 4 men and 3 horfes, will threih from 8 to zo bolls each
hour.-^The oldeft man in the pariih is 94 years of age. There
are 2 men ftiU alive, both of the name of William Gray^ who
have been each married to their prefent wives 58 years.«-
There was a working mafon in this pariih, whofe wife brought
him 18 children ; and a noble lady has bom 23 children to
one hufband.-— The people here are not fond of a feafaring
life, and but &w inlift into the army \ though, of late, ix

3 P 2 bandfome

•

$ Then miert firmerly mly tW9,

f tbt dova in taet rf theft artfippo/tdU difrey flO htOs rf gr^ mumaByt wM
it 120 Mh ttfi h thfirmn, on oh «vir^r,/«r ««r^.

484 Statjfiical Account

handfome jouog fellows hare joined the Train. One of tbem
is 6 feet 3 inches high. — The inhabitants here ihewed great
averfion to anfwer any qaefiion, tending to difcover the real
Hate of their ftock, cattle, or population. An apprehenfion
of new taxes, new wars, and of ^ raifing new armies^ feemed to
be the chief caufe of their unwillingness to conoLmunicate in«
formation on thefe fubjefls.

NUMBER

^ 6f MutbiL 485

NUMBER. XXIX.

PARISH OF MUTHIL.

(Counfy of Terib'^TreJbyUry of Auchterarder'--Jlynod of
Perth and Stirling.)

By the Rev. Mr. John Scott, Minifter.

Name^ Situation^ and Extetit.

MUTHIL is fituated on iht borders of die Highlands ;
and as the names of almoft all the places around are
Gaelic, and generally defcriptive of their local fituation, it pro-
b AI7 takes its name from an Erfe word, of fomewhat a fimi-
lar found, which fignifies the north Jide of the hiiL — ^The pa«
Tiih is of an irregular ihape, but one of the moft populous of
the whole country ; and is of great extent, being from 8 to 10
miles in length, and from 6 to 9 in breadth.— The viilage,
where the iiri ftands, which gives its name to the parifli, is up-
on the great military road, leading to Invemefs by Tay Bridge.*
It is 4 miles fouth from Grief, 17 from Stirling, and nearly
the fame diftance from Perth. Before the Reformation, it
was the refidence of the Dean of Dumblane, and in after times,
the feat of a prefbytery, which now meets at Auchterarder,
being more in the center of the diftri£t»

Soil,

486 -. Stati/iical Account

Soit and Surface.'^n fo large a parilh, the furface, as maj
naturallj be fuppofed, is made up of fiat and rifing gs^unds,
of hills and valleys ; fo that the foil in one place, muft needs
difier widelj from that in another. In the S. W. part of the
parifh, there are many thoufand acres, at prefent thought un-
fit for cuIt^^ation, being completely covered over with heath,
or with deep mofs. For many miles, thehaughs on the Earn,
and alfo on the Water of Allan, are; for the moft part, a light
loam, on a gravelly or fandy bottom, which, with lime or
marie, produces excellent crops. The higher grounds lie uponi
bods of till, naturally wet, but, when drained, they are, by
the above goentioned manures, rendered no lels produ&ive.

CuItivation*^-^Binct the year 1770, large marie fits have
been difcovered in both fides of the parifii, and much lime has
been ufed in agriculture. Almofl: every farmer lays down a
field annually with grafs feeds, and finds his account in it.
Lefs ground is oow plowed up, more cattle and horfes
are reared, and four times the quantity of grain is pro*
duced. The tenants are therefore in a thriving condition,
and the peafantry, in .general, are induftrious, fober, and coOfi
tented in their fiations. — Net only has much arable land bc^n
meliorated, but what is ftill more worthy of notice, between
1000 and X 200 acres (in their former ftate good for little)^
have, within tbefe laft 30 years, been ii^glofed and planted
with trees of various kinds, that now ferve to adorn, and, ere
Jong, will enrich the country ; by affording ufeful timber,
befides fuel, at an eafy rate, to thoufands, who derive but
little advantage from their moffes, and live at a great diftance
£:om coal pits.

Climate and Di/ea/es^i^^As the pariib abounds in wood, ai^d
wood and water, the air is in general moiftj and many fitua^

tiona

rf Mutbtl. 487

tloof are damp ; jet, upon the whole, the people are tolerably
healthy^ and live to a good old age. Manj, that are between
60 ttid 70, work as day labourers ; numbers of others^ be-
tween 70 and 80 years of age, are going about their ordinary
bufinefs* A man died lately, ibme years above 90. The moft
eommon difeafes are fevers, rheumatifms, and confumptions*
At times, the meafles and hooping cough carry off many in-
fants. But the fmall pox (formerly fo fatal to children), by
the improved mode of treatment, deftroys very few. Ino-
culation is now very common among all ranks ; and the pre-
judices of the vulgar, againft this moft falutary operation,
are at an end. The Commiffioners on the Annexed Eftatea
paid a furgeon, for inoculating the children of the tenants
and of the pfor. Same hundreds were inoculated at a time,
and every one of them recovered. It muft give pleafure to
add, that the prefent* proprietor of the Perth eftate continues
to employ a ftirgeon, for the fame benevolent purpofe ; and
alfo to attend the parents that are poor, when they ftand in
need of medical affiftance. An example well worthy of
imitation !

Birds and ^adrupeds. — There are in the parifli, plenty of
partridges^ moorfowl and fnipes ; alfo a few heath cocks, or
Uack cocks ; and, at particular feafons of the year, vaft num-
bers of plovers, woodcocks, wild ducks, wild geefe and teals.
—There are abundance of hares, rabbits, foxes, badgers and
polecats, bred in the parifli. At this time, there are no wild
deer % but as the horns of both the elke and foreft deer, of a
very large fize, have of late been found in marie pits, on both
fides of the parilh, and as the head and horns of the urus^
(the h9s ferus of Linnaeus), or mountaiii bull, were lately
dug up at the fide of a fmall lake, near Drummond Caftle, it

plainly

488 Stati/iical Account

plainlj fliewsy that foreft deer, and the other animals, now &
little knowut once frequented this part of the conntr j.

Rivers an^/Fj^.— 'The river Em^ oxEarn^ flows from a beauti«
ful lake, in a neighbouring pariih to the weftward, and glides
along the north and eaft fide of the pariih, in a meandering
courfe, formanj miles. It gives name to one of the moft beau-
tiful vales in Scotland » called Stratbem,

Befides the Ero, there are in this parifli the rivers, or wa- .
ters, of Macbany, Knaick^ and Allan ; all of which abound
with fine trouts, of a large fize. In fome parts of the Ern,
there are pike ; and, in fomeTeafons of the year, great num«
bers of fea trouts, from 31b. to 61b. weight. The fifliermen call
them wbitlingSf on acc<^unt of the. fcales thej have, at their
firft coming up the river from the fea. Thej are reckoned
an excellent fifli at the tables of the gentry ; and afford good
fport to the angler with fly. Largt falmon are found in this
river, as high as up Lochern, although there no lefs than 5 dikes,
quite acrofs from bank to bank, at the diftance of fome miles
from one another, with wooden traps in the middle, where
the water runs deeped, for catching the falmon, and the
larger fea trouts, in.their way up the river. Thefe traps are,
or ought to be, taken up every week, from Saturday evening
till Monday morning ; which are the only times thefe fiib can
pafs through, unlefs the river is fo fullas to allow them to over-
leap the dikes, which feldom happens during the fifiiing fea-
fun. Below the dikes, near the junflion of the Ern and the
Tay, there are falmon filbing places, which rent* at a high
. price.

Zaies, Roads, and Bridges. --^The lake above mentioned, is
called the Zocb of Ballocb, and is the only one in the pariih.
It is about half a mile round, and from it flows a Cmall ftream,

upon

ti^Q whkb a fl^s: mil] 16 placed» a luUe above tfae pla^e ^rbiei:^
It gaXk uUq 4if £f«.-r>Tbei:t are feveri^I cp9|it j roads in the pa-i
riih ; but the moft remarkable bne^ is the great militiiry oaff
from Stirline. by Grief, to Invemefsy which runs the whole
breadtb of the pariih for 8 Cft 9. miles^ crofling the Aliao, the
Knaick, the Machanj^ and the £m» over each of which
rivers th^e is a ftone bf idgf •

population* — The marriages bavCy for ao years paft^ been^
on an average, from 30 to 56. The exa£t number of baptifms
cannot fo eafilj be afcertained. This is chieflj owing to thd
hegligence of thofe who are not of our commtinion, or are
conneded^witb a chapel of eale in a diftant part, and who feU
iofa thipk ^f iip^pg tb^r cbihtfto'a names tq he piU on th^
fiariib 9«gift(Br^ Tbf f SM^f^ hpw9V«r froa^ 80 to 99 baptifms re*
^r4e4 WI&«#Uji Nq otjpuC^v of bariak having baea kept, it i«
iiS&^Mit ^{%f% 14 what prPBQftioii births and bUriaU ftand U9
eaf b Qthor : Mm i$ id a p^rtaia fad* tbat the popuiatioa bai
i0cr«aM v^ry i^t^ftlerablj ^<^ ^ J^ ^jjo }. for at tha(
period tba popi^lati^a fioi|d aa follows :

EximinaSle perfons of the j^ablilhed Ghorch^ < ^ • - tSjo
Children ufadet 7 yean of age^ • ^ £ • • 3^

Ilii«astni70wrgaad«ld,ab«tii « J^ ^ *^ ^400

M all, • 2640

Whereas, \fj a tifl lately taketii it appears, that there are at
prefent in the pariib,

Examioahle perfont of the Church of acotlandi - <i a 160

Children under 7 years of dge, ^ . « . ^ ^ 430

Old and young of the Church of Enghndy .... tsS

■ Prelbyterian.SiiittttetH * * , w 160

" Roman CathoUcv • * - - 4»

Tontf» - ' 4948
laoeafc wkhio tM« M M ymi^ * ^ • . - - 308

Vofc. VIII. 3 Q^ Previous

49^ Statifikai Account

Previous to the year 1770, however, the number had di^*-
creafedj for the return to Dr. Webfter, about 15 years Be<«
fote, was,

7rouftattU of »I1 perfitffioii* ind ages, . .. • ^ aS4S

Papifls, - - - • - '^-59

In all, - 990%
The increaie upon the whole, therefore, within thcfe laft 37 yean, is

only - - * - - - 46

The late rapid increafe has been partly owing to the divifioa
and fubdivifion of farms, (which was frequestly the (cafe,
while the Perth eftate was in the hands of the commiffioners) \
and partly to the enlargement of the village of Muthil.

VOlage.'^lvk 1770, Jlftf/i&//cofitained only about 50 or 6d
families,; but iince that period, fo many new feus have been
given off and built, and fo many fmall old houfes have been
taken down and rebuilt, upon a larger fcale, that it now €on«i
fifts of about 140 houfes and rooms, that contain feparate fai
miHes ; fo that the number of fouls, on a moderate calcula-
tion, is upwards of 400 $ whereas formerly, the whole nunui
ber did not exceed 200, at the utmoft,

Profejionsn — There are about 50 mechanics of di^er^At
kinds in this village ; 6 ihopkeepers, and 7 or 8 public hou£es;
the reft chiefly confift of day labourers, and their families i
widows, who have reibrted hither for the education of theic
children ; and old unmarried women, who have retired from
fervice. There is no writer, furgeon, or phyfician in the pa-
riih. When legal or medical ailiftance is needed, application
is made to thofe at Crief or Dumblane.

Rent and Heritors. -^Tht valued rent of the pariih is
7784lriosi Scotch; *the real rent is upwards of 4000L Ster^

ling.—:

of MuthiL 49 X

ling. — There arc ii beritors^ many of whom have but. little
property in the parifli $ Mr. Drummond of Perth being pro-
prietor of more than two thirds of it. Three of them are con«
ilant refidenters : other three have houfes, at which they reiide
Qccafionally .; all of whom deferve great praife for what they
have done, in planting, inclofiogy ^ad otherwife improving, the
fields that lie around their feats.

.Qhurckt &c.-TT>The cburcb is. an old fabric, that has flood for
Some centuries, and has often been repaired. It is faid to
have been built by Ochiltree Biihop of Dumblane, before tbe
Reformation : The precife year is not known. It has how-
ever all the marks of antiquity : The roof is fupported by a
double row of pillars, with aifles on each fide*, and there is a fquare
fteeple at the weft end ; diredly oppofi^ to which^ there is in
the eaft end a quire, which is a narrow building, W:ith a large
Gothic wbdow. Neax to it, are ftill to be faen the veftigea
pf three fteps up to the altar.— ^The manfe is a little out of the
village and was rejiuilt about 9 or ip years ago. The glebe
conlifts of 8 acres, and the ftipend is about xoo guineas*. — The
patronage is in the jCrown, as coming in the rpom of the Bifbop
of Dumblane. Befides ^he pariih church, there are other
three places of worfliip, viz. a chapel of eafe, a church of
ilBngland meeting houfe, and a Fopifli chapel. There ar« alfo
the remains of a Roman catholic cl^urch at Strageath, and a
chapel 2 miles to the Southward.

3 <^« Schools,

^The prefent mlnifter it Mr. John Scott, who fucceeded his father in April
1767, whofe predeceflbr was Mr. WiUxani Hally, the firft Preibyterian minifter
after the ReVolutioo, and who, for feveral years after hb ordination, wis obliged
40 preach from a teqC in the church-yard, while the Epifcopal incumbent kept
f ofleflion of the church.

49^ Statifikd Accmnt

' &ri&(M>/r.-^There tre 10 the parifli 3 fchools, at i^hich tboot
300 boys and girls are ammallj educated. At the p^oAial
Jthool there are offeii about 100, manjr of who A oome froot
difttnt parts of the countrj ; and at each of the other two
fchools from 60 to So. One of thefe fefaools has been efia«
Miflied hj the Society for propagating Chriftian Knowledge^
with a falary of zal. There^ 3Q or 40 bojra and girls
are annually taught gratis. The other fchoolmafter is pre-
oentor at the ehapet of eafe^ lately Imtlt on the fouth fide of
the pari(b» and has a ftnaU falary^ but cbtefly depends up(^
the profits of his fchooU

Poor. — ^In a pariih fo exten&ve, where the farms are fmaH|
and where there are many day labourers and cottagersi fituat^y
ed at a diffance from fuel, there is, as may naturally bo
foppofedi a great number of poor. At prefent there are up«
Wards of 20, who receive a monthly fitlpply. afkd perhaps 3Q
more, who receive a little i|ow an4 then frem the pariih fundst
There are alfo fome poor faffliIieS| who, once a year, get what
inay ferve to pay their houfe rent, to clothe one Or more of
their children, or to htty a few coals.-^The fimis confift of
ttie coHeftions at the church, which amount to about 30!* per
annum : — ^The xTiortc^oth dues, the rent of a few feats in the
church, and interdt of pdoney, make about 1 81. or tpl. more ;
to which the heritors (much to their honour), add 20I. Sterlings
amounting, in whole^ to within a trifle of 70I. Sterling | which|
with what is given by the family at Drummond Caftle, over
and above Mr. Drummpnd^s Ihare, in common with other heri.
tors, ierves^ to keep the poor (in that neighbourhood)* at
home, widiout begging from door to door*

jlntiqnities.'^'thttt are two Roman tampt in the pari A; ont
^t Strageatb, and anodier at Ardocb \ befides feveral forts of

obfervation*

of MktkiL 495

obfetvattoik. The catn^ at Strageath is fiti&at^ on tht txink^
of tbe Eitiy nesir Iftnerpefiraj. Its dtmenfions caiinot now be
afcertaitied with anj degree of exafttiefs ; the lines and ditches
being completely levelled, except in a few places. But from
what remains, it feemt Aot to hdvfe been ftronglj fortified,
j^rom its fite, too, it appears to hare been onlj a temporary
ftatton for a fmidl army.

Tbe catnp at ilHocbf as being the ihcit complete of any in
Scotland, of perhaps in Great Britain, is entitled to a more
partxcnlar defcription. Its iituation gave it many advantages;
being on the N. W. fide of a deep mofi, that rnns a long
way eaftward. On the weft fide, it is partly defended by the
fteep banks of the water of ELnaick ; which bank rifes per-
peiidienlatly between 40 and 50 feet. The north and eaft
fides were tttoft expofed ; and there, we find, rety particular
care was taken to fecure them. The ground on the eaft is
pretty regular, and defcends by a gentle flope from the lines
of fbrtification, which, on that fide, confift of five rows o£
ditches, perfeftly entire, and running parallel to one another.
Thefe altogether are about 5 5 yards in breadth. On xh6
north fide there are an equal number of. lines and ditches,
but 20 yards broader than the former. On the weft, befides
the fteep precipices above mentioned, it was defended by at
Itaft two ditches. One is ftill vifible ; the others have proba-
bly been filled up, in making the great military road from
Stirling to the North.

The fide of the camp, lying to the fouthward, exhibits to
the antiquary a lefs pleafing profpeft. Here the peafant's
rugged habd has laid in ruins a great part of the lines ;
fo that it may be with propriety laid, in the words of a La-
fin poet, *• yam feges efi^ ubi TCrojafuit *." However, from
the r^ains yet to be traced^ it appears there were alfo 3 or

4 ditches,

494 Statiflical AccBunt

4 ditches, which, with its natural advantages, rendered this
fide as ftrong and as fecure as any of the others. The 4 en-
tries croffing the lines^ at right angles, ace ftill diftinfilj to be
lieen.

The area of the camp is an oUong of 140 jarjds, bj 125
within the lines. The GeneraPs Quarter rifes above the level
of the camp, but is not in the center. It is a regular fquare,
each fide being exa&lj ao yards. At prefeat, it exhibits evi-
dent marks pi having been inclofed with a Hone waU, and
contains the foundations of a houfe, 10 yards by 7. That 9
place of worjihip has been erefked here, is not improbable^
as it has obtained the name of Chapel Hill from time imme*
Xnorial.

Befides the camp above mentioned, fo completely fortified
both by nature and art, (and which is fuppofed to have beei^
formed by jigricda^ (ox the Roman Jegiops under his com-
mand,) there are other two encampmei^s adjoining to it, and
having a communication with one another, containing above
Z30 acres of ground. Thefe feem to have beep defended by
<>nly a ilngle ditch and rampart, and probably were intended
for the cavillry and auxiliaries* Here was room for all the
forces, that fought under Agricola near the Grampian moun-
tains, notwith^nding what has beenfaid by Mr. Gordon, in
his Itinerarium Septentrionale^ to the contrary ; who probably
imagined, as others have done iince, that the whole ground at
Ardoch, fortified by the Romans, lay within the fmall camp
^bove mentioned.

It has already been obferved, that the two large encampments
had a communication with one another; and, that there was ^
fubterraneous paiTage from the fmall one, under the bed of
the river, is more than probable, from a circumfiance now
to be mentioned. There was a boie near the fide of the pra^
toriumf that went in a iloping direSion for many fathoms ;

^f MutbiL 495

in wfai<4lf It was generally believed, treafures, as weU as Ro-
man andquitiesy might be found* In order to afcertam this
fafly a man, who had been condemned bj the baron court of
a neighbouring lord, upon obtaining a pardon, agreed to be
let down bj a rope into this hole. He at firft brought up
with him, from a great depth, Roman fpcars, helmets, frag*«
ments of bridles, and (everal other articles : But xxpoia being
let down a fecond time, was killed hjfoul air. No attempta
have been made lince that time. The articles, above mention-*
ed, lay at the houfe of Ardoch for many years, but were all
carried off, by ibme of the foldiers in the Duke of Argyll's
army, in 172 5, after the battle of Sheriftnuir, and could ne«
ver afterwards be recovered. The mouth of the hole was
covered up with a millllone, by an old gentleman, who lived
at the houfe of Ardoch, while the family were in Ruflia, about
the year 1720, to prevent bases :fiom running into it, when
purfued by his dogs ; and as earth, to a confiderable depth,
teas laid over the millftone, the place cannot now be found,
although diligent fearch has been made for it« • ,

When the Ardoch Family returned to the country, the
camp was u&d as pafture ground for cattle ; and, by Sir Wil«
liam Stirling, the preient proprietor, has been inclofed with a
high ftone wall, that it may never again fuffer by a plough-
share. He has alfb prohibited the tenants from plowing up,
or otherwife demoliflung, any part of the remaining lines or
ramparts round the two larger camps. He hai now an urn,
perfedly entire, which was dug up near the weft fide of the
pratorium^ or general's quarters, containing allies, and fome

fmall pieces of a human fkuU *•

Brummond

* A number otjl&tu c^Jmt, with flceletons ia them, were not long ago fonnd«
in forming a road by the fide of the camp to the houfe of Ardoch. In a caiin,
about a mile to the weftward, no ItCk than z8a feet in length, 30 feet in a
flop ing heighti and 45 feet lA brosdth at the bafe, there was found a done opf-

49^ Statifiical AecQuht

JD«w«iiMiC^^*m-ThQbaiIdiog moft worth j of aotioe U
tbe old Caftk of Dramsiondly the uiciefit Cs^ of the nobUi
SmbU^ of Perth* It ftaads ttiWB a rock, oboat a mile to tfao
weftwaid of tbo militarj road, and w^ bi^lt in the year 14904
It was luiroofed Md partljdemoliihed in 1669; jet the waib
in fb^ie places were £0 ftrong aod eatire, that a pact of
then have beea latelj lepaind, aad fitted vp for a Ubearf , hj
iktsilpnlkml propiietor. The hoiiley in which the famitj ha««

lefidad

TlMre are, m feme phcti, the remains of JhniSt^dimpkt^ tndtherea(«
aiwyfiqtklwoe ftoafliiiiat ftaod ap •!! cad, loi la, ^nd 4»aie a^ Ibet s
bci|;ht, 1;%^ ve g«a<n)l7 00 ^]^ia^4 (Ita^tipoa, ao4 pf 4 r«f ^Iff^ > ltt%
iibly feme of thofe, celebrated by the GskIic bard, wlud) mwk the pa.^ qf ^
chief, or the place where he (ell in battk : •* Thefc may be the ftones of rr-
^ ttown, nifed to the ibnl tha never melted before, but was like the fteel of
ffhti^ravda.**

Ther4ifiiQ|b«pii»0|a«maftiipadfir ognismy, a.gnatpaat of wfikbi*
WW covered qtct with heathy leadjfig frqm A*4pch v> a f^rt of oMsttv^.
called Cmfs CaftU^ fitnated on the top of the Mujf oC Orchil, the line* of vU«J|
are ftiU very diftinft. There is alfo another fort of obf^rvatioq, lac^, bot no^
fccntifo at the one above mentioned, which it fituated to the northward of the
h0Qfe«£O|chiL

It it ^o^ of vptM^ thM, cMs by JDnuaauaid CSaftbr thoe ia % tm^
rock, called £^'# Qr^^g^ ai»d,l?y t^ cwAtty people, JKfpcM i=^, f^f^ ^^m^
a fire in the ni^hf ought be fcen, at the diftance of 40 or 50 mUet to tbfi e^
ward. The top of it it flat, and covered with aihes to a confldcrable depth. It if
within two milet of Strageath, and may be feen lh>m Camp*t Ctftic, and from
afanoft every part of a Roman road or caofeway, nmning from Strageath for
milet together, eaftward, in a jftraight line, tp the p^rkt of Qaifc, mhlff^ there
ire ftill the rem^t of a Romw ftation. Frpm wbich it i^ cTidc»t| (ba( tbi|
rock hat been a plage of fignalij and bence dcriTcd itt ^w^

af Mutbil. 497

refided for t cefltarj bygone, and in whicb it now r^des, id on the
fanoie rock with the Caftk, a little to the eaftward* It is a
plain building, that had originally been intended as only a tem<*
porary lodging, but b now enlarged, and made very conveni-
ent ; and although an old houfe modernized, (like many other
feats in the parilh), yet its pleatant fituation, audits beautiful
and unbounded profped to the eaftward^ attraft the notice
and the admiration of every ftranger.

MifnlluneoMS Oyirvatioms.''-^ThtTt are in die .parifli 5 or
6 ftills, of 40 gallons each, for making whiiky. There are 8
meal mills of old (landing, and 4 flax niills, three of which have
been ere&ed but lately. Befides tbefe, fince ti770» there have
been built in the pariOi, 5 mills forthxelhing com, a of which
are driven by water. There is alfo an oil mill, and a cotton
work upon a fmall fcale.-— There is z coach ; 6 four wheeled
chaifes, and z fingle jhorfe chaife, in the* pariih.*— Since thepe-i
riod above mentioned, the prices of labour and {nrovifions, have
increafed more in proportion, than they have done in moil other
places ; owing partly to the number of gentlemen, that bow
refide in the country, and partly to the thriving date of the
tenantry. At that time, the higheft wages the farmers gave
to an able bodied man fervant, did not exceed 4I. or at moft
j1. Sterling ; and female fervants had from 253. to 35s. per
annum : whereas now, the men's wages are from 7I. to xoL,
and the women's wages from 2I. ids* to $h zo« A day la*
bourer ean now earn is* per day in the fmnmer, and in autumn
as much, befides his vi&uals, whofe wages formerly never ex-
ceeded the half of that fum. Butcher meat, which could then
be bought for ad», is now 4d. per pound. Hens, chickens, and
eggs are more than double the price they were formerly ; and
ten times the quantity of all thofe articles is now ufed.— The
ftrofigeft winds blow from the S. W., and the celdeft from the

Vol. VIII. 3 R E. and

49$ Statiftical Accwnt

E. and N. E. ; whilft the Grampian HiHs, which rife to a
great height, at the diftance of a few miles, not onlj Tcreen
from the northern blafts, but likewile attrad the clouds to
often, that in many places of the parilh, efpeciallj on the banks
of the Em, and to the fbuthward, there is clear funlhine^
while heavy ihowers of rain and (how are falling thick, in ibm
neighbouring parts, to the northward.

Upon the whole, there are few places, that have more local
advantages than Strathem : But, what the people, in this part
of the country, chiefly ftand in need of, is a coal pit, which,
if they had, there would be no fituation more agreeable*
Good roads are now nuiking to all the market towns ; and
large plantations of ufeful trees are faft advancing ; which,
in time, will pave the way to the inirodudion of manufac-
tures, and will keep at home numbers of young people, (who
at prefent are obliged to fieek employment in diftant parts) ;
as well as afford opportunities, for the rifing generation, to ac.
quire thofe habits of induftry, in early life, which may ferve
to render them ufeful members of fociety, in their riper
years*.

NUMBER

* Ai » mlU-ftone is (aid to cover a hok or depoiit, where Roman antiquhiea
have been faund, and where more may (till lie concealed, it appears to be no
way difficult, to find out the pic by the means of the mill-ftone ; and it is Tcry 4e-
■ iirablc to explore it, notwithftanding the foul air it may now contain. Fire it
often caufed by means to prove the air. Perpendicular ihafts may be worked to a
very great depth, without requiring any renovation of air, by the means of pipes.
If, therefore, this pit contains foul air, at a imall depth, it is, moft probably, from
the nature of the foil, from its containing fulphur, &c. and may be worth ex-
ploring, on that account.— If, when the hole is at a particular depth, it is fnp-
pofed to lead horisontally to a certain diredion, it may be neceflary to fink
down a (haft in this place, to communicate frefli air^—Snppofing the hole to be
• place of depofit, or a gallery of communication to any particular plaee*
it cannot be fo deep, as to make the foul air a matter of much difficulty or ca«
pence to get rid oL— The mouth of the bole may be cn]argcd«

of Moy and Dalarqffie. 499

NUMBER XXX.

UNITED PARISHES OF MOY AND
DALAROSSIE.

^County and Prejbytery of Invemefs-'^ynod (jf Moray.)

By the Rev. Mr. William M'Beak, late Minifter of that
Parijb^ and now Minifter 0/* Alvss.

Origin of the Name.

THE Gaelic is almoft the only langoage ufed ia thefe
parifhes, and has been fo, as far back as tradition gses.
The names of aU the places in them are evidently of Gaelic
derivation^ and defcriptive of their fitnation^ or fome other
property. Accordingly, Moy, in Gaelic, Maghj fignifies a
meadow or plain, which is the nature of the place $ DaIarof«
ile, or Dalferguffie, is Fergus's valley. The ancient name ia
Starfach-na-gal^ i.e. the T[brefboldof the Gaeh^ or Highlanders^
being the pafs, by which the Highlanders entered to the Low
Conntry, fo narrow between high mountains, that a few meo
could defend it againft numbers. It was of great confequenca
to the proprietor in thofe times, as he could make inroads in*
to the Low Country, and eafily prevent any purfuit beyond

3Ra that

5.00 Statiftkal .Account «

that pafs. He could likewife hinder anj of the neighbouring
clans from paiBng this place without his confcnt. So fenlible
were the/ of their dependence on him, upon this account,
that thej agreed to paj him a certain tax, as often as he gave
^hem. permifllon to take this road with their booty; which
tax is ftill known by the name of Stuic^cbriacb^ i. #• the fteak
or coUop of the booty, expreffive of the quality of this plunder,
which was cattle. After the place was cleared of wood and
cultivated, it obtained the prcfeot name of M^y. It came
into the poffeiBon of William, the 7th Laird of Mackintolh, in
the year 1336, and was conveyed to him by David Bifhop of
of Murray* The Laird of Mackintofh, who is undoubted
chief of that clan, is likewife captain of Clan Chattan* The
Clan Chattan confided of 16 tribes, each having their own
chieftain, ,but all voluntarily united under the government of
one leader, of whom the prefent Laird of Mackintoih is the
reprefentative.

Extent and Surface. — The greateft length of the parift,
from S. W. to N« £., is about 3Q miles, and the mean breadth
about 5 miles. This country is bleak and barren, rugged and
mountainous, except (mall flripes and fpots on each fide of
the river Fiadbom, to be afterwards defcribed.

Climate and Dt/ia/es,'*JThe climate is much colder here
than in the neighbouring parifhes, which is fuppofed to be oc«
cafioned by the great height of the mountains. Vegetation
is accordingly later, than in the places that lie nearer the Mur-
ray Frith ; and the crops, in cold feafons, are liable to fuffer
by the latenefs of the harveft* The fnow genef^y begins
to fall about the middle of November, and frequently con-
tinues until March or April. In the year 1782, the froft and
fnow overtook the crops of grain almoft before any of them were

ripe 5

of Moy and Dalarqffie. 501

ripe ; and tbej lay buried under the Ihow till February xySj.
Though every poiTible exertion was made to recover them,
yet very little was obtained. The people were in the moil
miierable condition for provifions 1 obliged to purchafe them
at a great diftance, and at fuch a high price, that many fa*
milies were put on very ihort allowance. Many were reduced
to extreme indigence, from which they have hot yet recover,
ed. — ^But notwithftanding the coldnefs of the climate, the in.
habitants are as healthy, if not more fo, than their neigh.
hours. They are not liable to any peculiar local difeafes, and
many of them live to a very great age* T^vio perfons died
laft fpring at the age of 93 ; and there are feveral at pr^fent
in the parifli near 90 years of age, who enjoy their ftrength
and faculties, Hery little impaired for that advanced age«

Sail and Produce. — The cultivated ground in the pari(k
bears but a very (mail proportion to that which is lying wafte,
perhaps not above a 15th part. But the foil, of what is cuU
tivated, is, for the moft part, of a very good quality, and, in
favourable feafons, produces plentiful crops. The grain
raifed here is chiefly black oats« Some Scotch barley and rye
are likewile raifed. All the tenants and their cottagers plant
potatoes, which ordinarily thrive remarkably well, and make
a confiderable part of their maintenance. In favourable
years, die produce is nearly equal to the confumptiim of the
pariih; but, in unfavourable feafons, when the crops fail, they
are under a neceffity of procuring confiderable quantities of
grain from other places. The quantity of grain, necefiary for
the fupport of the inhabitants, would require to be much
greater, were it not that the numbers of cattle and iheep, kepC
in the pariih, furnifli them with flefli and milk in aid of other
provifions.

Mode

joi Statifiical Account

Mode of CuItivation0^J2xm\ng is carried on almoft in the
fiioie method at prefimt, that was in ufe for ages paft ; yerj
few improveinents have heen introdnced, nor do the people
feem difpofed to adopt any* Infiead of laying the whole dung
of the farm on the barley land, according to the general cuftoai
in other places, it is all laid here on the ley land, which they
break op for oats ; excepting a fmall part of it, which is re-
ierved for the litde barley that is fown, and the potatoes.

Phugbs^ Catikt Mc. — On account of the Ihortnels of the
labouring fieafon, the number of ploughs in the pariih, is much
greater then the quantity of land would otherwife require.
They are not fewer than 146, and chiefly drawn by 4 horfes
each, and fometimes there are two oxen along^with the horfes*
Tbe number of horfes in this parifli is about 900 ; the num*
ber of black cattle 1,800 ; and of fheep ia,ooo. There is a
confiderable number of each of thefe kinds of cattle fold an*
Dually, with the price of which the tenants pay their rents,
and provide for themCelves all the articles that their fiirms do
not furnifh. — The iheep, upon the large (heep farms, are of
the black faced kind ; but thofe, kept by the tenants, are a
crofs breed, between the large black faced, and the (maU
Iheep, formerly kept in the country. The wool of the large
Iheep is of a coarfer quality, than that of the fmall ; the wool
of the latter fells from x6s to i8s. per ftohe, Dutch weight.

Wild Animals^ Sird/j iSc. — Foxes are very numerous overall
this country, and very deftruftive to the iheep and poultry. Of
late years, a {ox*>hunter has been hired by the neighbourhood
'to deftroy them. The pariih abounds in polecats, otters, and
badgers. The red deer are very numerous about the fource
of the Findhom. The woods in Moy abound with roea.
Black game and groufe are fo plentiful in this pariih, that

many

of Moy and Dalaroffie. 503

wmj gendemen refort to it in the fliooting fealbii. Cranes and
wild docks neftle in the ifland in the l^ke of Moj» On a
high rock, above the river Findhom, an eagle has for manj
years built her neft*

^oo&.«— There is a good deal of natural wood on the banks
t>f the river FindhorUi chiefly birch and alders. There is a
tradition, that before this country came into the pofleifion of
Af ackinto(hy it was in a great meafure over«run with wood»
«nd called the Foreft of Strathdeam ; that it was fet on fire
tiirough careleflnefs, and deftroyed by the inhabitants, when
they began to clear the ground for cultivation. — ^The Laird of
Mackintoih has very confiderable plantations of Scotch firs
mixed with foreft trees \ to which he is mddng additions an-
nually. Thefe plantations are in a thriving way, and in a fliort
fpace of time, will decorate the country, and be of very gretft
Jbrvice to the inhabitants.

JRrv/Ti.— -The river Findhora takes its rife, in the hills of
this parifii, from a few inconfiderable fprings, the principal
.one of which iflues, in a copious ftream, from what is called
the ChviU Stonif a large rock with a fiflure in it. The di«
reAion of this river is nearly from S. W. to N. £. After
running for the courfe of 24 miles through this pariih, it
pafles through thofe of Calder, Ardclach, Edenkeillie, Dyke
.and Forres, and falls into the Murray Frith at Findhom, in
the pariih of Kinlofs. The whole courfe of it, from its fource
to the fea, is about 50 miles. It is called, in Engliih, FimU
hom^ from the place at which it enters the (ea ; but the Gae-
lic name of it is Uifg^tam. From thence this pariih, through
which it runs for the (pace of 24 miles, is called Strathdeam.
As this river runs, for all this courfe, between high moun-
tains, and receives many ftreai^s or rivulets in its progrefst

C04 Statical Acammt \

it rifes trcrjr npidlj, aodfdls at times Tcrj foUeiilj. Thcfc
is bat I Imdge over it^ tfaroogh the wbde of diis oomie ;
sad the people at a dtftaace from the liri^e« having firequent
occafioD to crob the river, often attempt to ford it in an im*
proper ftate, bj which manj lires are loft. Thb river
aboands with a great varietj of trosts; fome fidoMMi are aUb
found in it within the bounds of this parifh, efpecially in fen*
Ions dnt have frequent ^tau or floods, that cnaMe the
feliron to get over the ro^s, which obftmA their paflage
when the river is low. There are a number of leffer
flreams and rivnlets in the parilh, but none of them of ftck
importance as to deferve particular notice*

Lakt^ Ifiani^ \3c, — The Lake of Moj is the onlj eonfider*
able one in this pariflu B7 an sAual meafurement of it, taken
on the ice, its greateft length is i{, and the greatcft breadth
} of a mile. This lake aboimds wiA tharr (commonlj caB*
ed red wanui)^ and a great varietj of other trouts, of differ-
ent fises and colours. About the middle of the lake there ia
an iflaodt confifting of about % acres of ground* It lies N.
and S., and is nearly the fliape of a violin. At the fbnth end
•of the iilandi there are the remains of a honfe, containing 4
fire rooms, where the Lairds of Mackintofli refided in times of
trouble. Bj an infcription above the gate, it is faid to haw
been bnilt in the jear 1665, by Lauchlan the aoth Laird of
Mackintofli. Adjoining to the houfe, there is a garden, plant-
ed with fruit trees and currant buflies. It appears, by
the ruins ftill remaining, that there have formerly been very
-extenfive buildings in this ifland. The remains of a ftreet,
the whole length of the ifland, with the foundations of houfes^
en each fide, are ftill very vifibk ; and in the year 1760, two
ovens were discovered, each capable to contain 4 bofliels of

meal
3

of Moy and DalaroJJie 505

meal made into bread. In the year 1422, it contained a gar-
rifon of 400 men. In thofe troublefome times, when it was
neceflary to live either in fortified or inacceflible places, the
Lairds of Mackintofli refided here conflantlj, except in the
winter feafons* At the diftance of fome hundred jards froon
this, there is an artificial iflaod formed, bj heaping a parcel
of large round flones upon each other. This place was ufed
for the confinement of malefa&ors, before the abolition of the
jurifdi&ion power, which was vefted in the hands of the
chiefs. When the lake was low, the criminal could fcarce
Hand wixh dry feet j but after rainp, th^ water rofe to his
middle. Luckily, however, for the piifoner, in 24 hours he
was either acquitted or condemned. This place is called
EUaa^na^glacbf i. c. the Stoney JJkmd.

Mineral J^^f//.— At the north end of the lake, there, is a
wen of mineral water, which ii accounted ferviceable for
headachs, and diforders of the ftomach. There is no account
of its being analyfed, fo as to have its qualities afcertained ;
but it appears to be of the chalybeate kind.

Pofulation. — ^The parifli regifter having been deftroyed a
few years ago, by an accidental fire, a lift of baptifms and
marriages cannot now be made out ; nor can the population
be aicertained in that way. The following is the refult of a
late enumeration, taken for the purpofe of this ilatement :
The deaths are not recorded in this, or the neighbouring
pariflies, and therefore cannot be afcertained*

Vol. Vin. 3 S Numbcf

5o6 Stati/iical Account

\&a\cu Femaki. TotaL

Numbeir of eiatmiuble periont» - 757 843 1600

■ children under 7 yean

of age, -.---- J13

Total aambcr of foula, ;- 7 - - - -18x3
The return to Dr. Wcbftcr, in 1755, wai - - - 1693

Increafe, - • - lao

List of BxkTBi and MAaaucEs for the tail ibnr year*.

1788 X789 1790 J 791 Total. Ann. Aver.
Baptifms, . - 34 45 3» 49 x6o 40

Marriaget, *• - 18 10 |» kS 55 XjJ

There hzv^ not been nu|iij new houfcs built for t&efe Ceve-^
xal years ; bat of late fome parts of. the .parifli, which coo-
tained a great number of iDhabitants, have been laid out ii|
ilteep farmsy which has dhniutifaed the population yerj confi.
derablj; and if this flieep farming plau (hall be extended here,
as ^9 propqfedf it is. thought it wiU occafion a (till farther
diminutioa of the popuhttoQ*

Occupations. ^^In thefe united parifhes^ there are no towns,
villages, nor manufEtffcories of any kind. All the inhabitants
are employed in cidtivating tbe ground, and in tending their
cattle, e^ccepting a few artificers ; fuch as, fqnare wrights^
blackfmiths, weavers, tailors and (hoetnakers, who work for
the other inhabitants. The generality of the tenants occupy
fmall farms, for which they pay from 5I. to lol. Sterling of
yearly rent. ^I thefe tenants have cottagers, who are em-
ployed as fervants and labourers by them, or follow the oc«.
cupations already mentioned*. The number, either of te-
nants

* The wages of labonrers are increafed confiderablj of late years. About
30 or 40 yean ago, that of an ordinary farm fenrant, tDcluding fome perqntfite^ ,

waa

of Moy and jyaUroJfte* 507

£ants'or cottagers, cannot be tfcertain^d with prccifion ; but it
is fappofcd, that the nuiuber of the fonnef is about aoo, and
that of the latter rot lef* than 340; wliich, with the proprie-
tors fcfiding in the parifli, makes the number of houfcs a few
more than 540.

froprutarsi Reaty t^r.— Tbfefe pariflics arc the property of
13 heritor?; all' holding of fubjed: fuperiors, f^xcept the Laird
of Mackintolb. Five of thefc heritors rcfide in the parifh.
The valued rent of the parifli is 2,234]. Scotch. The real
rent is about loool. Stctling, and is increafiog confidcrably,
bj flieep farms. As pafturage is an important objeft here,
in letting of farms, paftiiife ground is confideted as well as the
arable land ; and land is let not */ tbe acre, but by the piece^
or lump ; and therefore the rent per acre c?ihnot be fpecified.
Befidet the rent in oaoney, cuftoms are paid iu kind bj rnoH
-of the tenants, fuch as w«dders, eggs, fowls, and other arti-
cles. Perfbnal fcrvices are likewife exaftcd by the proprie-
tors from their tenants ; a« cafting and carrying home a certain
quantity of fuel ; Ihearirig a certain number of days in harvcft ;
carrying loads from diftant parts of the country \ and per-
forming numbers of other things, that are fcarce worrh men-
tioning, but which are very troiiblefomc to the poor people
liable to this ttcatment.

3 S i Ecchfiqflical

#18 from 108. to Its. in the half year; and a day labourer had 4(t per day,
#ith his maintenaoce, and 7d. without ic Now, the wagw of a farm fctraat
jii fro^ al. to »1. I5». in the half year; that of a labourer 6d. with, and li,
Without viauals, per day. The wages of a female fervant, about 50 years ago,
was between 6s. and 7s. ; now, from Ijs. to aos. Sterling in the half year.
Female ferrants always receive their maintenance in the £snuly, in which they
iyc ; the greater part of the men fisnninu hare their viduals in the family, and
fome recehre meal in lieu of their viduals, at the rate of 6 bolls per annum.
to t full grown man, and 4 boIU| of 9 ftooe Dutch weight each, to boys.

5o8 S/ati/lical Account

Ecckjiajltcal ^to/^— This is an united parifli, as alreadj ob»
ferved» made up of the original parifhes of Moj and Dalarof-
fie. There is no account, written or traditional, when the
annexation took place ; yet, in many refpefts, the pariflies are
diftind and feparate, though under the charge of one minifter.
There is fttU a church kept up in each, in which divine fer*
vice is performed alternately. Tbefe churches are 9 miles dis-
tant from each other : the road is at all times rough, and in
the ftormy feafon, frequently impaflable. The church of
Moy was built in the year 1765, and is ftill in good repair.
The church of Dalaroilie was rebuilt in the year X790« Mr«
Rofe of Kilravock is accounted patron, and has hitherto al-
ways prefented to it— The ftipend is 69L 14s. 2d., with a
fmall glebe in each parifli. The manle was built in the year
Z765, and has lately received fome reparation, which has
made it tolerably comfortable.— All the inhabitants of this
|)ari£h are of the Eftabliihed Church, except a few indivi-
duals, who are of the Epifcopal Communion, but commonly
attend divine fervice in the pariib church.

Schools. — ^There is a parochial fchoel eftaUiOied in this psu
rifli. The fchool-houfe was rebuilt in 1784, in a pretty fuf*
ficient manner. The falary is looL Scotch. The fchooU
mafler is ordinarily feflHon-derk, by which he makes about
al. IDS. Sterling annually. The fchool fees are, is. for reading
and writing, zs. 6d. for arithmetic, and as. for Latin. All thefe
emoluments put together, will make about aol. Sterling in
the year. The poor are much inclined to give a little edu-
cation to their children ; but fo extenfive is the parifli, that a
very inconfiderable part of them only can be accommodated
by the parochial fchool.

tf Moy arid l}alaroJf%e. 509

l^oor. — ^There are a nomber of poor people in this parifli;1>at
noft of them do foniething in the way of providing for their
own maintenance, and receive what aid can be given them
from the pariih funds. Thefe funds are very inconfiderabk,
being onlj the weekly colleAions, which do not exceed 4!. or
5h Sterling in the year. Such as are altogether incapable of
labouring are relieved by the neighbourhood : But as the
prafiice of common begging is not reftrained, many of them
betake chemfelves to that method of obtainmg fupport.

Roads and Bridges, — The road from Invernefs to Perth
pafles through this pariQi. It was made, and is flill kept in
repair, by Government. Befides a large and ufeful bridge on
the river Findhorn, there is a number of fmaller ones on
this road, within the parifh, which were built and kept in re-
pair at the public ezpence. There are roads of communica-
tion betwixt the different parts of the parifh, now forming by the
ftatute labour ; but there is fo much to be done in that way^
that it will take a confiderable time before thefe roads can
be completed.

Inns and ^Moir/}/.— There are in this pariih 2 inns, on the
public road, and about 12 fmall public houfes that fell whi&y.
The whiiky houfes are exceedingly detrimental to the morals
of the people, as they are fo many temptations, in every dif-
ferent part of the patifli, to idlenefs, quarrelling, and man/
other vices. — ^It is fuppofed, that the coldnefs of the climate
renders the ufe of fpirits more ne<;eflkry than in milder iicu«
ations ; but whatever may be in that, it is much to be regret-
ted, that, ijiftead of making that moderate ufe of fpirits, moft
of the people, that refort to thefe fmall public houfes, feldom
depart without going to excefs.

CharaOer

5 1 o Statiftical Account

CbaraSer and Manners.-^Tht inhabitaati of thefe parlilies;
however, are, io general, ibber, peaceable, and induftrioas4
Crimes of an atrocious nature are rare among them. Tbc
climate is rather unfavourable to the conftant exercife of in*^
4ufti7, as during the ftormy feafon in winter, and a great pare
<if Ipring, they can do little, except taking care of their cattle ;
but as foon as the feafon permits them to labour without doors,
their exertions are very great, until the feed time is oven la
fummer, thej are employed in providing fuel, which coniifltf
of peats $ and as the climate is unfavourable, on the one hand,
this inconvenience is in a great meafure remedied, by the great
plenty of fuel in every part of the parifli. In harveft tbey are
equally diligent in cutting down and fecaring their com, be-
fore the bad weather fets in. — ^In their manners, they are
iremarkably attached to old cuftoms and praftices. The laa*
guage, drefs, and moft of the peculiarities of the old High<*
landers, continue in Ais place, with voy little alteration. £x«
cepting the gentry, few of the inhabitants of this place fpeak
Englifli i nor do they difcover much inclination to acquire diat
language. The tartan plaid aiid kilt, and the other parts of
drels peculiar to the Highlanders, are (till in general ufie
among the men ; the women, in like manner, retain the High-
land drefs of that fex. Their houfes are of the £une con-
ftrudlion with thole of their predeceiTors for ages paft ; and they
ftill place the fire in the middle of the botife, and the fa-
mily (its in the form of a circle around it.

NUMBEfi

NUMBER XXXI.

PARISH OF LESLY.

{Tr^Jhyttry of Garioch^County urtd Synod pf Abn^en,)

By the Rev. Mr. J. Harper, Affijiafit to tie ReV. Mr. Ale5?.
iSxEWARTy Minifler t/ that Parijb^

Origin of the ITafne.

THE ancient «ad modern name of the pariih is Lefly ;
the etjmologj of which is uncertain* There is a tra«
dition, that one Bartbokmew ie Lejlyn^ a noble Hungarian,
came to Scotland with Qneen Margaret, about the jear 1067 ;
that he was a Ion of Walter ie Lejlyn^ who bad taken his
firoame from the cafile of Lefljn in Hungary, where be was
bom ; and that he^ or foqae of fais d«fceada»ts, having ob-
tained a grant of certaio lands in Garioch, called them bj his
own name. It is certain, that the family of Rothes were
long proprietors of a confiderable part of the pariih of Leflie*,
and other lands in Garioch, and it is not igiprobable that
^he pariih derives its appellation from them* A charter was
granted hy James U. to George, defigned B^mma it Lejly^

eredi^g

? At tlitt period, Lord Olanunile wm proprietor of the other part of the piriih.

512 Statiftical Account

crefting the town of Lefl j into a burgh of baronj, with the
privilege of a weekly market on Thurfday, and a yearly fair
at Michaelmas. Both thefe, however, have long ago beeo
difoontinued*

Situattonj Extent^ Surface^ Soil and ' Climate.^^This pariih
is fituated in the weft part of that diftrift of Aberdeenlhire
called Garioch. Its length from E. to W. is about 2 com-
puted miles, and its breadth nearly the fame. The general
appearance of the parifh is rather hilly ; but thefe little hills
are capable of being cultivated almoft to their fummits. The
Water of Gadie, (o fwcetly celebrated by Arthur Johnfton, in
his elegant Latin poems, runs through the parilh, from W.
to E« and divides it almoft into two equal parts. It^ is here
but an inconiiderable rivulet, but abounds with fmall trout.
The foil of the lower grounds, on the fouth fide of the water^
IS a deep, flrong, rich mould, on a clayey bottom ; and pro-
duces good crops of bear and oats, with very inSifferent cul-
ture. The lands on tlie north fide, are a light loamy foil, oa
a bed of rock or gravel, and though they do not yield fuch
weighty crops, are earlier than thofe on the fouth fide of the
pari(h. The air is reckoned falubrious, though rather moift :
and the feafons are fbmewhat later than in the lower end of
the Garioch.

Produce^ Cultivation, Wr.— The chief produftions are oats»
bear, a few acres of peafe, turnips, potatoes, and a little hay.
The fpirit of improvement has not yet reached this diflri^,
or at leaft in a very partial degree ; and the mode of cultiva-
tion generally adopted is wretchedly bad. The fame method
of tillage, and cropping the ground, ftlll prevails, which was
pradifed perhaps 200 years ago. With the advantage of an
excellent foil, a tolerable climate, and rents by no means ex-

travigant

ofLtJly, ^ sn,

travagamtt the farmer toils on from day to' daj^ harrafles and
perplexes himfelf, and^ after all, with diflBculty procures the
ncccflarles of life for hitnfelf and family. Though inftances of
improvement daily occur, and the benefits refulting from
thence are obvious, an obQinate attachment to old eftabliftied
pra&ices too much prevails, and neither precept nor example will
induce them to alter their plan. What is called infieU is conftan tly
kept in tillage. The rotation of crops, is, bear, with dung ; then
two crops of oats, and then the land is dunged again for bear.-
The dung is laid upon the ftubble during winter, where it
lies in fmall heaps, expofed to all the inclemency of the feafon^
till the oat feed is finiihed. The dung is then fpread, and
the ground gets a kind of ribbing, and diredly after that the
feed furrow. The outfields, or faugbs carry 4 crops of oata
without any dung, and then lie 5 or 6 years in piiftim^ except
the park on which the cattle are folded upon dtitltg fiimmer, which
carries5 crops of oats. Some of the faughs are fown with afpe*
ciea of black bearded oats, which will require 2 and fometime^
3 bolls, to yield i boll of meal.-^A^very few of t)ie tenants are
indeed beginning to adopt a better method of tMnagement.
They fow a few turnips, and fome rye-grstfs and clover. But
their great didance from lime and other manures, together
with the badnefs of the roads and the fcar^ity of money, mud
render their ptogtels in improvements buft floW.-^Notwith*
ftandis^ thisr wreidied method of cultivation, the parifli can
fjiare annually, at an average, about 700 bolls of ineal, and
200 bolls of bear ; a clear evidence of the goodnefs of the
foil. An early fpecies of oats has been lately introduced,
which are likely to be of great benefit. They are a fortnight
earlier, than the common oats, and produce fully as much
meal. They are called the Peebles, or Lord ChUf Banm^t mtts^
and were firit imported into this country in the year 1783.

Vol. VIII. 3T Population.

Statifiical Account

Population.^^ht former and prefent ftateof the populatioa
of this pari(b is ezadlj dated, aloog with the rent and feve-
xal other particulars, in the following table :

Statistical ^able of tie Parish of Leslt.

Vomber of fouU id 1781, - 4x3
■■ ■ -■ ditto in 1791, - 39»

Pecreafc, within thefe 20 years, at
Population in 175J, • 319

licreafe widiin thefie 40 years, • 94
Number of marriages during the

laft 10 years, - 36
— — Births, males 49, •%

females 46, J ^^

' ■ Deaths, , - - 33

■ males, - - 184
females; » - 208

— — pcrfonsunder 10 years

of age, - - Si

■ do. between xo and

fto, - -66
■ d«. between ao and

50, - - 17a.
' * ■. -— do. above 50, - 7a

Number of Members of the £1U«

blilhed Church, - 388
— — — — Roman Catholics, • 4

■ ■ ■ Proprietors non-re-

fiding*, » m %

' Clergymen, • s

^ Schoolmafters, - i
■ ■ Farmers above joL

per annum, i

■'■'■' ' ditto under 50L, - a4

■ Shopkeepers, - %

■ Smiths, - - x

-^— — Carpenters, - 4

~^— Weavers, - - y

— — Tailors, . '- 5

■■ Miller^, ' ' Z

■ ■ Male farm fcrvants, - 30

■ Female ditto, - %$

Poor, - - 4

Capltalof thcirfonds, 1401,
Annual income (col-
kdions/eatrentsi&c.), 61.

Number

• Viz. C%loael H09 s/ JiMti, wd fVUUaii FtrUi LM, JSfy. c/ miUUi^k

^fi4y^ SIS

Number of Tovag peifont taight Nomber oi aerei of Mofi, '. 6m

EngUSh, Writing, ■ Cartf, - 60

&c. ' - - ao Ploughs t, - 2%

— "— — acres of arable Valued rent, in Scotch

ground •, - i6m money, - - L.X533 o •

— — — do. meadowi or p»- Real rent,aiuio 179* J, 700 o O

' ftoret, - - 30#

VALUE OF STOCK.

Komberof horfes, - xao, valtted at JL..8 o o each Total L* 880 o o

■ black cattle, /80, -30 o — - 1740 o •

' flicep, . laoo, — -050 — — - 300 o o

Total value of dock, • L. 2910 o o

ManufaQures^ lie. — The only tnanufaAurCf carried on hero,
is a coarfe kind of ftockings, in which almoft all the women
are engaged, The wool is difperfed over the country by dif-
ferent manufafturers in Aberdeen, whofe fenrants colled the
dockings, and pay for the knitting. This branch of trade
has been of very great benefit to the diftrifi. They get from
lod. to xs. for knitting each pair ; and a good hand will fpin
and knit 3 pairs a week. It is computed, that there are about
9000 pairs manufaftured annually in this parifii, which, at an

average, bring in about 40ol.

3 T 2 Ecclefiqfiical

* 0/ tbefi ihtrt mrt 600 meru rf gnicffl^ tr ImJuU^ vMd /<#, of am mveragt^ «l
iSt. or x8/. /vr atrt. TB* cutfiiU^ fimt •/ vibUh h very pt»r^ lets at 4/*
t Befide* afrOty iarge extent ef htatb mnijheep p^mre.

% Thffe fkt^ are inewm iy 8, 10, mi feme by 1% eecen ; ami S *^ ^ irenm $y
herfit ami e^m, er eowe, yeied together* Tbe phaght are ef the tid Seetth Utii, ami
generaUy of a very hoi eon/huff ioa. There u only I plough^ iravm hy a pmr ofhorfet^
in the parifi. In the yenr 1 752, there war net one eart in thepartjh. The inhahitantt
then carrieiont their /arm iitt^ in creels on horfeo haehs, and hrmight home their fttel
infummer in the fame manner. Thiejavenfy ^mSste is now ohof/i totinly (aii etfiie^
tho/armers having all got carie,

$ Thepriee oj meal it here eompatei ei It. per hotl.

j;i6 Statiftical Auount

Ecclefia/^icul Stiti amd AripoA— Colonel Hay of lUnnetia pa-
tron. The valae of the living, exclafive of the manfe, and a glebe
of 5 acres, is 104 bolls meal, 7i bolls bear, and 5I. is. 2 Ad.
befides the vicaragis tithes of a pan of the parifht which will
amount to about 4I. per annum. The maofe was built vol if 32^
and is now ruinous ; but the heritors have agreed to build a
commodious new one in 1793* The church is old, but in
very good repair. — The encouragement for a (choolmafter
here is very poor. The falary is only 4^ bolls of meal, and
il. 13s, 4d. being the iotereft of a half years vacant ftipend
bequeathed by the family of (.eithball. Notwithftanding whicb»
the prefent fchoolmafter has remained in this office fince the
year 174J» and is perfedly iatisfied and contented with
his bt.

Poor. — B^fides the poor upon the rolK who receive public
charity, a few others get occafional fupplies. None belong*
ing to the parilh are permitted to beg. This however does
npr prevent a number of vagrants, from other places, ftroU*
ing abQUt and extorting alms from the inhabitants, aod often
pilfering what they can lay their hands upou. The funds be*
longing tb the poor, above ftated, are lent out at intereft. The
greateft part of it was mortified bj Mr. William Watfon, and
Mr. William Forbes, both miniflers of Lefly. In the year
178a, very little encroachment was made upon the capital
belonging to the poor ; for though they were pretty numer-
ous, and proviiions vtrj dear, yet they were liberally fup-
plied ; the Rev, Mr. Stewart having generoufly lent money to
the kirk^feflion, without intereft, for purchafing meal to the
poor fort qf inhabitants, which was fold out at a reduced
price i ^nd to thofe wl^o coul^ not 9#brd to piirchafe, it w^s
jivf n gir^is.

h^€t^.^^hit moft common dKeaies are feven, of the flow
nerirous kind \ thefe are not often fatal. Sometimes inflamma«>
tory ferers, attended with putrid fymptomst appear, which
are generally veiy dangerous. Many are likewife fuhjeA to
rheumatic complaints, and a fcrophulous taint of the blood feema
to perrade a pretty large proportion, of the inhabitants of this
and die neighbouring diftrifts, owing perhaps to the poor low.
diet they ufe, «id the cold damp huts they inhabit.

TueL — ^The fuel here ufed is peat and turf; neither of
them good in their kind. This fuel, from the time and la-
bour it requires, in the heft part of the fummer^ may be reck*
oned expenfive in the mod favourable feafons, and has al-
ways been found to retard the improvement of every country,
and the advancement of manufafiures, efpecially where manure
mud be brought from a diftance. Could coals from New-
caftle or Sunderland be got during fummer, at a moderate
price, the advantage to this diftrift would be confiderable*
The expeoce of freight and charges of importation muft al-
ways affeft this part of Scotland : But were the heavy duty
on coals removed, the revenue of the kingdom, would foon re-
ceive, from the increafing population and profperity of the
people^ much more than it ever can derive from a tax, which
is one of the greateft obftacles to their advancement.

Minerals. — ^In fcveral places, on the fouth fide of the parifh,
there is a kind of jafper, or amyanthus, found. It has a
greenifh kind of tinge, with grey ftreaks inteifperfed. The
country people make fnuff boxes and other trinkets of it ;
bnt no quarries have been opened, nor blocks of any fize
wrought.

Antiquities,

5i8 . Statifiical Account ^

Antiquities^ t/r«— With regard to antiquitieSy this puifli has
little to boaft . The remains of two Draidicjal temples ftill appear,
but neither of them are very entire.— -At the head of the Den
of ChapletowDy on the eaft fide of the road, leading from
Leilj to Alford, there is a place called the Four Lards^ Seat^ or
Zittle yobn^s length* It is a (mall circular, artificial hollow,
about 5 feet diameter, and 3 or 4 feet deep. Tradition reports
that four different proprietors met at that place, and dined to-
gether, each of them fitting upon his own ground. The four
proprietors are (aid to have been, the Lord of Leilj, Lord
Glammifs) the proprietor of Putachie, and the Blihop of Aber-
deen* A little to the fouthweft of this place, there are fome
veiliges of an encampment, in feveral places, the foilee is very
difiinct, and in others almoft quite filled up. A little to the
Weil of this encampment, there are a good manj cairns or
tumuli. One in particular, larger than the reft, is called coek^s
cairn. None of them have been opened* There is a tradition,
that a battle was fought here, but whe;i, or bj whom, is quite
uncertain.

CbaraBcr.^^The inhabitants are a fober, honed, decent,
well behaved fet of people; fome of them aftive and in-
duftrious : Thej are humane and charitable, friendlj and hof«
pitable. Many of them are well informed in the principles
of religion, and are pious without oftentation. There are
SID particular vices, to which- thej are generallj addi^d.
Capital crimes are unknown. Thej enjoj the comforts of
life in as great a degree a$ their neighbours of the fame
rank, and feem to be prettj well fatisfied with their con*
dition.

Advantages and Di/advantages.'^This parifli, though the
foil in general be excellent, and the climate tolerable, yet la-
bour

p'LtJly, ' 519

bour under feveral great dHadvuitages* Its diftaace from
market, being 30 miles from Aberdeen, theneareft fea port,
is none of the leaft confiderable. Thither the fuperflous pro->
dace of the lands muft be carried, through roads ezecrablj baiL
The diftance from lime, too, fo neceflarj to the farmer, is
another gre^t obftacle to improvement* The fcarci^ of fer*
vants, and the high wages they now demand, are alfo grier^
ances, but by no means peculiar to this parifh*. In a word, rent,
the price of labour, and every article neceflary to a farm
is greatly railed to the hufbapdman, while the value of the
produce of his fields continues pretty much the fame. Cattle
is the only ftock whofe value is increafed ; but this parifli
does not regr many.

Propofed Improvements, — All thefe dlfadvantages, however,
might in a great meafure be overcome, by granting longer
leafes to the tenants ; by releafing them from thirlage to mills,
and fervices of every kind ; by ailifting them to build better
houfes ; by encouraging induftry and improvements of every
kind ; and, above all, by attending more to the ftate of the
public roads. The inhabitants perform the flatute work up-
on the highways ; but good roads will never be made by
ftatute labour, at leaft in the manner, in which^it is condufted
in this diftriA. It difirefles the people, but is of no advantage
to the public. A patriotic zeal, for improving the roads,

feems,

* About %Q yean ago, tfce wages of a common male farm feryant were about
Sl. per amium ; none are now to be got under 61. At that period, the beib
Ihearer, in harveft, got il. ; the common wages n<^w are 2I. A day labourer then
earned 4d. a day ; now irom 6d. to 8d., befides viduali:. Should fervants
wages continue to increafe, for a few years, in the fame proportion as they
have done fince 1^83, the conferences muft be, either the rent of land
muft fall, or the tcoaat become bankrupt, and the Uads be turned into
graft.

^ 1 o Statical Acctmnt

fcems, however, now to adivtte the gctlemen of this c»initj«
The ptoprieton of kiklt in the neighboitriog diftrifi of AUbrd,
have fet on foot a pba, for making aa czodlentroad bj- folw
Icriptioii, from that part of the coootiy to Aberdeen, whidl,
when finiihed, will be of the greateft militx ; and, it is to be
hoped, the gentlemen of Gariocb, will imitate fo laodaUe an
example*

NUMBER

ef Hawick. 5^1 .

NUMBER XXXIL

PARISH, OF llAWICK.

(Gounty of Roxburgb^PreJhytery of Jedburgh^^Synod of
Merfe and Tteviotdale.)

By tht Rev. Mr. Robert GiLLAX;

Name^ Esteniy and Jppearahce.

ETYMOLOGY of names is generally matter of conjeaure.
Hawick may be derived from the Celtic, £a, a manfion, and
wiV, the crook or conflux of rivers ; or from the Saxon, haf^
the fame with our halved^ and wrVi, a common termination
for a village, fuppofed to be formed from the Latin vica. To
either of thefe derivations its iltuation agrees ; as the river
Teviot waflies tlie fide of it towards the north, and thefmaller
river, Slitridge^ divides ft nearly into two equal parts.— The
parifli is of confiderable extent, being about 15 niiles long
from W. to E. and 4^ broad. The general appearance is hilly :
None of the hiljs, however, are of any remarkable fize ; they
are moftly green, and afford excellent padure for Iheep.

V0L.VIIL 5U SoU

^22 Stat^al Acccouttt

Soilf Manure, and Rent. — The fioils of the ptriih are vari*
onfl. The haoghs, or vallies* are compounded of loam, gcavd
and (and, in different proportions. On rifing grounds bclweeu
the vallics and bffls, there is loam, with here and there ft
mixture of grareL On the hiUs^ the foil varies accord*
ing to fitnatiout being in fome places light and dry; ia
others fob, and fpungy ; and in others wet and ftiffl In fome
£urms, there are mols and beath, though in fmall quantities.
The Ibil of the vallies, and of the rifing grounds contiguous
to them, though not deep, is fiir from being unfertile $ for,
under proper culture, it produces plentiful crops of oats, bar*
lej, turnips, potatoes, clover, and rye-grals ; and, when laid
into grals, in proper condition, affords ezceHent pailuxe for
fmall cattle and fbeep. The foil of the hills b perfisftlj a«
4apted to the breeding of iheep. — The quantitj of arable land
is ioconfiderable, compared with that which is fuiubk for
pafture only.— 'The manure chieflj ufbd is dung, collefted in
die town, and at the different fiirms. There is alfo marie in
different parts of the parifh, which is ufed fuccefsfulj onjand
in pafture, as well as in tillage. Its tSkOis have not been tried,
upon land appropriated to the breeding of iheep ; fome imsc*
gining there would, and others there would not, be danger
in ttiing it upon land light and drj. — ^The valued rent of the
parilh is 11,5911. ixs. Scotch^ the real rent about 2800L
Sterling.

Trees and Sheep. — This parilh does not produce an)r veget«
aUe or trees, but fuch as are to be found in other parts of
Scotland. Upon the banks of rivers and rivulets, and upon
the fides of hills, the hazel, birch, hawthorn and grej willow^
fpring fpontaneoufly, when defended from the fheep ; a proof
that, at a former period, the country has been more covered
with wood than at prefent« Neither does the parifh produce

any

of Sawict. 523

fttiy animal's that are uncommon. The animal of the greateft
value, and cbiefij attended to, is the flieep : Bj far the great-
eft pari of the pariih is occupied in breeding thein. The
number may be about 8ooo« Thej are of the long white
faced kind, which bears the (hort clothing wool, fomewhat
inferior in fixe, as well as in fineneCs of wool, to the iheep of the
Cheviot Hills. Having been thoughttdefedive in fhape, from
the lightnefs of the fore quarter, about 20 years ago an at«
tempc was made to improve it, by means of rams of a breed
highly efteemed in England. The experiment was repeated^
until it was found, that the quality of the wool was thereby
deteriorated. Judicious farmers now ftudy to improve the
Uiape of the breed, by feleding the beft lambs of both fexes
for breeding, without introducing a foreign mixture ; and to
enlarge the fize and render the wool finer, by increafing the
Ihelter upon their farms, by affording their flocks plenty of
food, and by rendering their paflure fweeter and better. For
this laft purpofe, keeping a lefs flock, and draining of boggy
or mariby land, are reckoned of great fervice, and attended to
by good managers. Turnips and broad clover have not been
given to {heep, in this pariih, except for fattening them ; aU
though this praftice prevails much in other parts of the coun-
ty of Roxburgh. But rye^grafs is efteemed a good fpriog^
Ibod, where the fituation of a farm admits of its being raifed
in «biindance. In fmearin^, a much greater proportion of
butter is ufed than fotmerly ; but the total difufe of tar has.
never had a good effefi.

Cuhivatioftf Climate^ Produce^ Wr.— The time of fowing
oats is from the beginning of March to the end of April ; that
of fowing barley, from the beginning of April to the end of
May. The pra&ice of fowing barley by the middle of April,
Vpon land that has been tborcmghly prepared the preceedtng

3U2 fummer^

524 Statifiical Account

fummer, by fallow or a green crop, begins to ^ain gronnd. Tt
15 thought, that barlej fown thu6 earlj, is not fo liable to
fnffer from drought, as when fown in the middle or end of
Maj ; that the crop is fooner readj, and the grain larger and
better ripened. In favourable feafons, September is the bar*
veft month. But if the weather is bad, harveft is not over
till the middle or end of Odober* This is not altogether to
be attributed to climate ; but in fome mcafure to a pradice
t(>at ftill prevails, of fowing great (;^uantities of oats upon high
lands, which nature. feems to have intended for pafture onlj-.
There is a confiderable variety of climate in the pari(b« In
the town of Hawick, and its immediate neighbourhood, the
weather is often mild, when it is cold and iharp a few miles
diftant. In the winter feafon, fnow, on the high parts of the
parifli, is often deep, while near the town there is none. The
provifions produced in the parifli, are more than fufficient for
the fupply of the country part of it, but not equal to the con«
fumption of the town of Hawick. On this account, there is a
conftant importation from the neighbouring pari(hes of meal,
parley for malt, butcher meat, buttery cheefe, poultry, &c.-«-

* The wagcf generally given to fervants art,

*ro a plowman and other fervantt employed in hufbandry, whh

bed, board* &c. per aonnm, • •« - L. 7 d o

^o ditto, without bed and board, - - • - 13 o •

To a Ihepherd, on a farm where the mafter refides, - - 14 o 9-

To ditto, upon a let farm, - - - r -ijoo

To a maid, for milking ewei from Whitfunday to Lammas, • X x o
To a man, hired through the whole corn harveft, with vidualt, - x 5 o
To a woman, ditto, - - ? - - 0x39

To a labourer, from Martinmas till Candlema% per day, • o o xq

X ■ through the remainder of the year, ditto, - - • X o

*— — *— in hay and corn harveftt, n ditto, - •* q i %

' ' ' \ ' ■ Tt

i^ Hawick. j^%^

The. number of ploughs in the country part of the parifh, is
about 30 at prefent, though they have not all full enaployment.
The Scptcb plough is moAly in ufe ; but fome farmers ufe it
with the Englifli mould board. The number of carts is about
60, of which 50 may belong to farmers ^qd carters, refiding^
jpoftly in the towq,

fVintiQwing Machine,— Th^ winnowing machine, or corn
fanner, from the beft information, made its firfl appearance in
Hawick, Accounts, well authenticated, flate, tha.t Andrew
Rodger^ a farmer qn the eflate of Cavers, having a mechanical
tprn, retired from his farm and gave his genius its'j>ent ; and,
probably, from a defgriptiou of a maohine of that kind, ufed
in Holland, in the year 1737, conftru£ted the fird machine fan
employed in this kingdom. In the year 2 740, be. fent many of
them into the northern parts of Northumberland. The prin-
cipal farmers ihere, in the courfe of that year, purchafed and
yfed them ; and Air. John Greigftone alone, then farmer at
Wark, got 6 for h»s owti yfe. The dcfcendants of ^ndrew
llodger, reading in Hawick, at prefect fupply the whole coun-
try around, and continue to fen4 many of them into Northum-
berland. They fell them from 2 to 3 guineas, and make and
^ifpofe of about 60 every year*.

Ttle

To women for reaping, « • « per day, « L« o x o

■ for hay making, • « ditto, - - 007

To mafon$ and carpenters in winter, • ditto, •. - o 1 g

m I in fummer, - ditto, - - o x ^

• Mr. Marlhall, in his Raral Economy of Yorkfhire, vcl. I. page 483, fays,
about the year X755, ** my father made a mmcliw/am^ from a model (he%n
^* him, with fome improvements. This wa» the firft, that was made in the diiV
**• tria, and perhaps the firft that was made in Enghnd." P^om the above
aecovnt, it appears, that, long before the period mentioned by Mr. Marlhall,
^ey were in ufe in the northern paru of Northumberland. The fads can
be attefted by Amtbont Grsigstom^, £fi}. of ^owiin^ in th^ county o{
purham. * . -

^ftd Statl/tkal Account \

Tihi Ttown, — ^Hawick is ft butgti of baronj, independhetit ot
the lord of ereAion $ and has exifted free from a verj earljr
period. But the rights lind (Jocttments of the burgh bein^
loft and deftrojed* during the inroads of the Engliib plund-
erers, a charter was granted, in the year 15451 hj James Doug-
las of Dnimlanark*, confirming to them fuch rights and lands
as thej formerly held. This charter is confirmed by another,
granted by Queen Mary in May 1545.— In confeqnence of thefe
charters, the burgeffes AtSt their own magiftrated annually.
There id a ftanding council ; in eonjundion with which, the
magiftrates manage the town^s Affairs. The whole coniifU of
51 ; viz. 2 bailies, 15 of a ftanding council, who continue
for life, if not legally difquaUfied, and 2 called quarter maf-
ters, from each of the incorporations. The incorporations are 7,
viz. weavers, tailors, hammermen, fkinners, flefliers, flioemakers,
and baktets. A treafurer and filrveyor of weights, meafures
and markets, are annually chofen by th6 council. The clerk
is ele&ed by the burgeftes at large, and generally continues in
office during life* The magiftrates receive r^fignations and
grant infeftments in the town. The fafines are recorded in
the general or particular regifter for fafines, as they have not,
like royal burghs, a record for the town*s fafines. They ex-
pede fervices, cognofce heirs, ftnd pronounce decreets in civil
caufes, to any extent on which hornings and captions pais.
Hawick pofleiTes all the privileges of a royal burgh, except
that of fending a reprefentative to Parliament, for which it

need

* Id this ehsrt«r» one trtiele mty be Noticed. Ooe Jamei Blak wai tncd
with ** one pentiy of the kiogdom of Scodind, upon the gnnnidaf hithalf /cr^
tlaaef for ftading and famifliiiig one luiip,«r f>ot, of bvninf oii, before the
■Itsr of tlio f^rHtk diureh of MAWkk^'.ia time of high Mtfs and verier prafo^
lU holy day» of ^he year, in boaottr of our Saviour Jefbs Chrift, and jmyiag
lor the fonli 4l che bacMM of Hawichi the fooadcrs of the lamp, and tfaeit
Cuccfflbrs**'

Med 0ot repine ; i^ it is thereby freed from touy tempUtioi|s
to idlenefs and difllpation, to which the iahabiun^ of royal
burghs, by their politics, are often fubjefted*

Rivmne^ Market^ (/r.~Tbe commoo, belonging to the town*
was formerly very exteofive; but fome of the furroundin^
heritors, claiming a preicriptive right of pafturage, 6 parts of
ao were allotted to tbem. The town's (bare now amonnla
to about 850 acres, beiides fame places in its immo*
diate neighbourhood, which fell not under th« diTifioi|«'
Previous to this divifion, the cattle belonging to the bur*
geffes paftured over the whcle common; and this town
had no revenue^ except what aro& from the dues, or entry-
flioney of burgees, which was inoonfiderable. Since the
divifion, the whole common is incloled, and about 350 acres
let in one farm, befides other detached pieces, with ftveral
ureas feued for building* The revenue, arifing from thefe,
and what is exaAed for pafturing the burgefies cattle, now
amount to X30I $ and (tiU common fufficient remains to paftuce
thefe cattle. No part of the town's revenue is fpent in eat*
ing and drinking, except a trifle at the King's birth-day, and
the eledion of the magiftrates. The magifirates and council
lately erefted a neat council houfe, brought water into the
town in leaden pipes, and paved the fireets anew* The Dubs
of Bttccleugh, who draws the cuftoms of the town, contribu^
pi 50L towards building the council houfe, and paid half of
(he expence of paving the ftreets. There is a weekly market
end 4 &irs, befides a tryft, eflabliihed, within thefe few year^
for black cattle, &c. in O&ober, between Falkirk tryft and
NewcaiUe fair, which promifes to fuoceed.

ilf/Mi^Aiyrfj— «»Notwithftanding the difadvantages of di£i
tance from fuel, and an extenfive land carriage, manu&ftures

are

548 Statiftical Actount

art carried on here with con&deraUe fpirit and Tuccefs. SeVenit
branches are now eftabliihed'; but the moft confiderable are
carpets, inkle, cloth, and ftockings. The earptt manufa£iuf^e
was eftabliihed in the jear 1751, and has, iince that time, been
under the management of Mr. William Robertsoit, now a
partner. For fome years, it was aided, by a bounty of is. pel:
fione on all the wool manufaftured, from the board of Trufb
tees for improvements in Scotland. The prefent proprietors,
Iince the jear 1780, beiides Scotch carpets, hai« manu&dured
feveral other articles in the woollen line ; fuch as ferges for
carpet covers, plain cloths for table covers^ ruggs, collar checks,
with other articles ufed by fadlers. ' The quantity o£ wool
manufadured laft year, was about 220 packs* of laid and white
wools. Women are employed to fpin thefe in their own
honfes, receiving from the ftorehoufe one done at a time. The
number of people, employed in the different branches of this
manufafture, laft year, feems to have been 362. — ^The inih
ntanufaBurt was begun in the year 1783. The only branch
yet attempted is common linen tapes and twifts. In thefe
two articles, there are annually confumed xo tons of linen
yarn ; of which one half is fpun at home, and, when the
price of flax is moderate, the whole of it. The number of
people employed in fpinning the flax cannot be afcertaiued^ a
confiderable quantity being fent to diftant villages, at a time,
to a perfon appointed to give it out in fmall quantities. The
other people employed may amount to 6^^ This manufadure^
which is yet in its infancy, was likewife aided for a few years,
by the Board of Truftees for Improvements and Manufaaures
in Scotland. — ^The flocking manufadure was eftabliihed by
Mr. John Nixon, in the year 1780. For 4 years he wsfs
employed chiefly jn making hofe^ for people who fu^niibed

their

*ii pack is 12 fkoQcs ; 24ib. of white, and 35ilb. of laid wool, to the flons.

of Ifawici. ^29

l)iei'r own materials, called cujlom wari. Since 2785, he bas
Inanufadarcdf on his own account, difierent articles in the
hofierj line, to a confiderable extent. From his books, h^
appears to haVe manufaftured the following quailtitj of hofe :

Coloured and white lamb's wool holCy • - 3505 pain.
Cottoo, thread, ahdWorftedhofe^ ^ • • 594 do;

4099

The Dumber ofpeo^Ie emplo) cd, are.
Frame work knitters, • • '- I3 men*

Spinners, '•--.• -•4A women«

Siramers, doablers, and twiners, .... 9
Afbremao^ • • • * i . - .' j

IT '

The wool is given out to Women, in fniall quantities, wh6
fpin it ib their own houfes*«— IThe ctoib manu/a^ure was be«
gun in September 1787. The firft year, this nianufadure con*
fumed only 10 packs of wool \ laft year, upwards of 40 were
manufa&ured. The clbth^ which is narrow, is fold from 2s«
to 5$. per yard, to merchants in different fea port towns la
the north of Scotland. The number of perfons employed, isy

Weavers, .'-*- - m • • .5
Spinners, occafiooaUy employed, • - - • l%

Dyers, --4

Carders, ----.-•--6
j^erfons employed in machinery in the fliop, - - • 4

VoL;VilL 3X Nurfiry

* The mannfadure of fiockingt was originally begoa by BaiKe John Hsrdie,
in the year 1771* He cm|^oyed 4 looms; which| at an average, produced
annually about MaopiUrs,nkbfllyofthcc(Arrerkind. He (tons to huvcbeea the
^s&t that introduced ^his bufincfs into this country; and, by perfons taught ia
his ihop, it has been planted in Wooler, Kelfo, Jedburgh, Langholm, Melroff,
and Selkirk. Prom Hmlily diilrels he abafldoned it) after carrying i( on for
}!<> years^ whCA it WM taken vp hj Mr. Nixan,

539 Sta/ffiifol Aeconnt

Nwrferjf and C0mm0rc€0^n thiff parifii there is a confiiertUf
aurfer J carried an bj the Meflrs. Dickfons. This nurfery waar
firft eftabHflied at Hafleadeaa Burn, in a aeigbboariag pariibp
m the year 1719^ The ground there» fit for the purpofe, be^-
iog all occupied, in 1766 thej feued btnd in Hawick,, amount*
ing to 36 acres, tp extend (heir bufinais. Thefe two nurferies
contain all kinds of fruit and foreft trees, flower plants, and
roots, and flowering flirnbs, that are naturaliaed to this coun«
try ; befides a great colledion of exotic plants. The demand
fer thefe articles of nurfery is confiderable ; for, befides fopplyin^
all the adjoining country, and federal other parts of Scotland,
tliey arcf fyat to many places of Northumbarlan4t Cumberland,
Weflmoreland, North Wales, Lancafliire, Chefliire,Yorkihire,
ficc. At fome feafons, there are jo people employed in the
iiurfery grounds ; bat, at an arerage, 36 are employed the
whole feafon.— •Some people here make it their empioymenr^
to buy up eggs in the neighbouring couaties, and carry them
to Berwick, taking feme weeks to the amount of ijoh, and, at
an average, of 50!. per week through the year* Qthers are
itntirely occupied in coUefiing flieep ikins, both white and tar^
red, in Dumfries -fliire, Tweeddak and Selkirkfliire. Part of
them are manufs&uredin Hawick, and the reft fold in quanti-
ties to the fl^in^ jrs in Kelfo and Galaflkiels. The perfons,^
who colleft the flLios, through the flieep countries, likewife
buy up coarfe linen yam ; which, together with what is made
in Hawick and its neighbourhood,, (not ufed in our manufac«
tures), is fent to Kendal, Glafgow, Stiriing, Leith and Aber-
deen. One perfon gets about aoo packs of wool fpun into*
yarp, which he fells at tbefc markets*

Church and "Poor. — ^The Duke of Buceleugh is patron of

the parifli. The living confifts of 91I, 13s. 44d., 16 bolla

meal, %o bolls barleyi the vicarage tithes of a (mall part of

4 .tkt

tiie^tri^ a mink aiid gatdetly and a glebe of i j EbgliOi acres.
Befides the Eftablidied Ghiirch^ there are two meeting-bottfesi
a Burgber and an Antiburgher. The diftance of many places^
in thie fod the adjatait parilk of Cavers, from the pariih
ahurcbesi iadoeed the tahabitante there to ere^ a chapel of
cafe. In this plaoi, under the dire&ioa of the miniflers of
Hawick and Cavers, a chaplain performs divine fervice;
partly paid bj the Dnke of Bacdeughi and partly by the
minifters and the people ) but tfie affiftant not being ia or«
ders, little bmden is thereby fakeb from the minifters* hs
number of poor, at prefent reeeiiring weekly affiftaocet is
no : fhr their fupport, the heritors ftcc. affe& them&lves to the
fUDOunt of 370I. per abnam**

Po/K^^ioff,— The nutnber of fouls in Ais psiriiby from an
accurate furvey, arci

la the town of Hawick, ^$%m Mmied fedonh % * 97e

Isthocouotiyi • « 6eS PeHboft note le fMI^ li 4aD

Makt, • 137^2 , <iei8 ■ between xO and ao - 6it

Fcmalet, • 1550^ — ^ — — JM) aad ^e, - tU^

Tbc|wpcihrtion,ini755,wai, [9fii ■ ■ ■■ ■ ^oaaiyo, * 493

^.^ ..■>, > ., ■>„ yospdio^, . n

Imreafc, • aij . —

— — Toul, - 291a

There is no ezaA regifter kept of marriages, baptifms, or

burials^

3X2 Itmnjation.

* Beddes thh prMBon (at tha po^t, a nombef \ttt idlbclatei!, vnder the
title of T5e Ff^efidfy Stdityt to foppott thettfil^s in the tJoio of fiokDe&,er sa*
tethainfimucatfdloldagB. Thsma«ibcr«iMiyatriflsattheir adhufioo^aad^i*
aaniiaUy ; and for thu, when reduced by fickneft or age, they receiYe ji. per
week; at the death of a member, his wife recexvea il. x«t., and a member, at
dMdtethofUtWtf^lU t0daft»ytlkotaclsl«sp€Mot, Befidct thofe wha arc
tht IttinediMe olgedUof this agbeiatioiH the Maty pofii^of many of the rf»
ff^tMU iababttantt of the town and aeighbow hodd.

539 Statifikal Account

Inwidatian^'-^The town of Hawick, though not fbbfcft tm
inundatioDSi has every reafon to be afraid of them. It ftanda
at the confloz of the rivers Slitridge and Teriot, which, after
great rainsy ot the dtflblving of the fnows on the adjacent hiUs^
rife feveral feet upon the hoafes immediately fimated on their
banks. A remarkable one happened in Anguft 1767'. Slit,
ridge then rofe to an aftonifliing height, occafiooed by a cloud
borftiBg at its fouroe. It began to rife at 4 o'clock in th^
afternoon, and continued to inoreafo till paft 6, when it was
%% feet above its ufnal leveL It marked its progrefs with de.
itrufiioo. Part of the furface of the hill, where the cloud felly
floated into the river. Com and cattle, with every thing on
its banks, were bom away by the torrent. In (lawick, its
devaftations were great ; xj[ dwelling-houfes* and a com mill,
were carried oflF, and the rock fwlcpt fo clean, that not a bit
of rubbiih was left to tell where they ftobd. At the height of
the flobd, a* maid fervant, belonging to a merchant, reoolleft-
ing that in the houfe, now fiirrounded with water, her matter
had ^ool. in gold, boldly ventured in, and got hold of the bag
with. the money: In returning, however, (be was carried
«lownby the ftream^ but was caft afliore on a green below Xhft
town, herfelf and the money both fafe. In this alarming
event two lives were loft ; both indeed through rafhnefs an^
inattention.

Eminei^ Af€ii.«.-Hawick, as far as the prefent incumbent
fan leara, has given birth to few men of confiderable emin*.
cnce in literature, iix. the fi^ld, Qf in n^nk. Some, however,
who have reiided in it, have flione in their particular Q^tionv
Amongft thefe, we muft firft rank Gavih Douglas*, Biihop

* Oatim Douglas, on his firft CDterin^. the chnrch, was inftslled redsr of
l^^wick, ia the year Z49.6« Afterwards, he was appointed provoft of the oA-

le^iatft

tf J>uokeU, atUfaor of fiov^rarpoemf, 9nd the admir^ tranCe
Jatorof VirgiPs iEneid* Here too fhould be meotiooed, Mr,
Alexavo£R Orrooc, tbe firft mioifter of Hawick after the
Revolntion. He appears to have been a man rigid in difcip-i
line, and of extenfive charity. As a proof of the former,
there is told an ej^traordinarjinftanpe. The fnagiflrates, hav^
ing offended againft decency and propriety, were cited before
him» and weie not allowed to aft in office, nbr releafed
from the thunders of the chnrch, until they had, on theic
uncoyered knees, alked pardon of God and the kirk-feffioo*
This is a degree of ecclefiaftical feverity n,qw happily un-?
known* . En^inent. proofs of his charity, however, ttiil re-
main. He bequeathed, for the poor of Hawick, ix6 merki
Scotch ; and for the fchoolmafter 9,000 merks : He gave feveral
jiieceis pf plate for the ufe of die church; and to the minifter
he gave bis whole library, whipfa remains a ipapn^^nt pf an«
cient theologJ:cal literature. • '

; jintiqmties^'-^Thtrc ,9Te remains of qimps in this pariik}
but*at what period they were formed, or by whon^ the prOi^
fent incutehent has never been able to difcover. T^^re is %
place .calkdCo/r^x/*, by fome cpnifdered (I^e remains of a

Komai)

kgiate churfli of 9t. Giles; in Edinburgh, »b1)bt of the convent of Aberbrothicki
and hiihop of Dunkeld. Ht was nominated to the archbiihopric of St. Andrews^
btit his appointment neiver took efiedt. To av^id the p^Hecutions raif<pd againft
his family, in the year 15x3, he retired into England, and put hitni^lf upt^er ths
protedion of Henry VIII., who kindly received him, and granted him a peiu
fion. He died of the plague in London, and was buried in the SaToy cbvcb,
in the year Zi»x.

* Whitakcr, in his Hiflory of Manchefter, fuppofes the Catrail to have been m
barricade thrown up by the ancient Britons. He fays, '* it runs in a N. £. di«
^ reAion from Carnaby on the Eik, to Gallow Water, beyond Selkirk, lined all
^ (he way on the W. with forts; and even continues itfelf, by an additional chain

iP^ StaH/Hesl Account

RcMnin ninpttt ; \j odiersi the Teftigei of a fertiBoiilviii hy
the Stxenst or the ancieat Britons. A littk ahove (he towot
%omvA$ the weft* is en eerthcn momid, of e conictl figiiret.c8lU
ci the Mtfi§. Some foppofe this e t9mulm ; others, a place
yiiftd for the priacipid inhabitants of die team to nieet,'£6r
the diftribntion of jiiftioe. Thb laft, its naaM sad txaditioii
confirm. At an earlj period, this wes common throughoot
Scotland. When die chiefs and the leading people in a dif^
frift mett to promulgate laws for the goTcmment of their de^
pendsintSy it was generally on a hill of feme eminence ; and
manj places ftill retain the appellatioo, as N^rth MfrwteS
Xaw, in Eaft Lodiian ; Largo ZsWt in Fifeflutej and Rm^^t
JCotu, in this neighboarhood.

daraOer qf the Pro^.-^Althongh indiTidaals in this pa«
tlSi» as in other places of the fiime extent, are ginn to the
▼iecs ufual in thefe times, yet the inhabitants, in general, ai«
hooeft, fober, and induftrious. Their induftrjr is no^the irio«
lent exertion of a moment; bat fteadjr, eahn, and petfeverin^;
And were it not for many diladvantages and difficulties, they
l^are to encounter, the fpirit of the inhabitants of Hawidc
would raife it to the firft ftsdon of maonfiifture, in the feut^
of Scodaod«

* eTcaAKaKdagilieGillSvrftotlieaortlk U ^MpUnlf dcfigacdatakiftiir
^ «g«iaftMi7enemy,tlitthi7tothe8.aDdE.ofic*' lu remtiai in tlM ptfUk «C
OrrorsSDi oe the OsDow, ut titt coQ^icvon; bat little of it » ehfitfr^Ua
latysfuift.

ffc^t. - Sit

NUMBER XXXIIL
i^ARISH OF CLATT-

{Ccunty and Syn6d of^ jShirdetn — Prtjbj^tery of JlforcL}
iy ike Ri9. Mr 4 Kobset Fxvm^T^

^Namci SituattQftf EreQton ani.Climati*

TH£ name of this pariQ^ fecns to be taken from the. rHi
lage of Clatt, where the church fiands, and which it
{placed almoft in the centre of the parifli y infomachi diat frpfl^
the church^yard, one has a profpeft of the whole ^ and none of
the principal places in it are out of view, nor above the diftanc*
ti, a mile^ excepting a eorner that lies N« W«— 'This pariih ip
fitnated in the Weftern extremity of that ancient divifion or
diftria of Aberdeenihire, called Garioclh^t is a confiderable
time finpe it was disjoined froip the prefbytery of Garioch, and
anneased to that of Alford. The fituation being naturally high^
' and furrounded with hills, the cUmate is cold, being vifited with
irequent fiorms of wind and rain from the £• and with fnow
I from the N. and N. £ ; and it has been known, within the

memory of the writer himfelf, that the winter Ihow has re-
mained upon the j^round, till the fecond week of April, and

that

'^36 IStatifiicat Account

that the months of September, Odober and November, lutve
proved raio/ throoghont* The froft miflt which fometimc^
begin the latter end of Jul j, and axe ftc^tieflt in Anguft and
September, are verj injurious to late Ibwn barley, and to
pcaie*.

Soil^ CuUSvatum^ \3c. — The foil is various ; light and fimdy
towards the hill fides ; the infield generallj a loam, eafil^ cul-
Civated, being neither wet nor too drj. Were the climate
as favourable as the foil, the ground would produce any fort
of crop common in Scotland ; but the frequent changes of
the weather, aiid the frofts, prove very unfaVob^Ue to green
crops ; excepting turnips and potatoes, which thrive well,
when the ground is duly prepared. It muftbcadmowledgedi
that improvements iii sfgriculture and * hu(bandxy are, here,
only in their infancy. Mod of the greater farmers, however,
begin to have a few acres in turnips and fown grafs ; but very
little in fallow, and no wheat, which ifrould be but an uncer-
tain crop, by reafon of the latenefs of the feafons, the fpiln^
and autumnal frofts, and fubfcqu^nt raids : Neither are the
farmers, at prefent, in a condition to enter iifto regular rota:,
tions; ad, befided other rtafons, their poffeffions are not of the
proper fize, and only upon ihort leafes, which are a certain ba^ *
to kll improvements.-^Some ftone inclofures have beetl made
of late ; and feveral plantations of wood have been begun up«
on the Knockefpock eftate. The firft Carts were introduced
only in 1760, by the miniiler ^nd another xefidenter. They

are

^ This occafioned the loft of the crop in 17SS, hj which calunity this Cou^
try "was much redaccd ; and had It not been for the GoTorsmcnt bdiinfy of meal,

and the fcafonable fupplies of white pcafe, deftincd for the American War, a
famine muft have unavoidably enfued: The puue wtb Jmerica was, therefore,-
the providential mca^of isYing ievcfal (hkoi ia North Britalc ton depopuI%»-
tion and rui9«

of Clatt, 537

ftre now become general all over the parifh ; only the horfes are
ilill of too fmall fize to render carts as ufeful as they might
be. In good feafons, the parlih has been found to produce
more grain than fupports the inhabitants; but lince 1781,
the crops have often proved fhort ; and had it not been for the
money received, by the fale of black cattle to the fouth coun«
try dealers, the tenants could not have regularly paid' their
rents--*A branch of the docking manufaAare, from Aber-
deen, employs feveral of the women fervants \ but it is too in**
coniiderable to be much depended upon.-^Although fome of the

. farmers are getting into a better form of ploughs and farming
uten^ls, yet the old methods are ilill followed by feveral.
Dung, . mixed into a fort of compoii with common earth, or
feal from pafture ground, is ftill the common manure, al-
though the ground agrees perfe£Uy well with lime, which
is to be had, at the didance of 10 computed miles, by an ex-
ceeding bad road; and very little attention is paid towards mak«
ing it better. There are only 3 or 4 tenants, who have at-
tempted fallowing or watering ; though fuch trials, as have
been made, have anfwered well. In particular, a fummer fal-
low of exbaujled outfield land^ with the addition of a little lime,
has produced excellent crops of barley and grafs, which be-
fore afforded neither. The faft is, little can, or will be done,

^ in the improving line, till the heritors or landlords take the

lead, and encourage their tenants, either by premiums, or long

leafes ; by aboliihing fervitudts, and mill multures *, which

Vol. VIII. 3Y are

* In fpme parts of this parifli, the mill multure is computed to be i-ijth of
the whole produd ef the ground.; and, in » neig hbooriog parifli, it is iaid to
be the xith pait; bcfidestheezpenccof upholding the mill-houfe andauchinery •
Whereat a liberal and fenfible heritor, who wiihes the improTement of his
cftate, and the profperitj of his tenants, will fee .the propriety and necefiity t>f
aboliihing fuch unrelTonable exa^ioos, and of laying no other refiriOtons upon
the manufaduring of grain, than barely that of upholding the mill, aad giving
wages for a niiUcr to work it.

538 StatifiUal Account

are all great aad iiiTiiicible obftades to improvements in huT-
band 17.

Springs and Minerals .^^Thtre are no rirers of anj note.
A rivolet takes its rife in this parifk ; which peffing down*
ward, through the parilhcs of Leflj, Premnay, Sec. takes the
nzzne of GadU^ and afterwards becomes a branch of the
river Drie, which falls into the Don at Invemxy^—There are
man J fprings of water, impregnated with minerals, asfnlphnr,
frc. ; bat none frequented for medicinal pnrpofes^^Almoft
every polTeflion has plentj of ont-ljing ftones for building
inclofnres. Qnnrries maj be found, in manj places, of ex*-
cellent granite, verjr fit for bnilding, and eafy to be wronght.
In one place, near the fite of the manfion*houfe of Knocket-
pock, (in the front of Craig-Hill), there are veins of va.
negated marble, which promile ibme Ibrt of quarrj of that
kind. A confiderable time ago, about the year 1754* it was
dug a little, and fome of the largeft pieces^ that could be got»
were collefied, and fent up to Judge GoanoK of St. Chrifto-
phers, then proprietor of the efiate, who at that time refided
at Moor-Place, near London: But, whatever opinion waa
formed about them, no further notice has been taken of the
place fince.

Po^«&/io0.— The population of this parilh has decreafed
confiderakly within thefe 40 years ; chiefly owing to Ibme fa*
tnilies, who had fmall farms, removing to the manufafturing
towns, where they find a more eafy and comfiortable way of
living*

The return to Dr. Wcbftcr in 1755, w«« • - * - • - 55f
At Whitfonday 1701, when the incambcnt completed fait bft
courie of T'lstinn^ and catechifing, the number was.

Of Vtalet, - - ■ - *«37

-Fenulc, . - aiaj ' " TottI, - a*S

Decreafe, - 134
Of

of CialU 539

Cf tliefe, tlie anmber of commmiicanu is sbont ..... ^29
The number of inhabited hottfes, and £umliesy it - • • • S9

Tb# following Abftraa ihews the date of the Births,
Marriages, £cc. for the laft Ten Years :

Year«. Baptiimt. Marriag Burials.

1783 •

1784

I7«J

»3

1786

»9

1787

^788

1789

1790

179X

I79»

zo
z6

zoz 31 za6t

Orrv/afion^.— Almoft all the inhabitants occupj farms, of
greater or lefs extent, from 5I. to 4ol. Sterling a jear. There
are even fome as low as il. los. ; and a few have onlj a houfe,
with the liberty of fuel, but no ground. The artificers, or
trades people, fuch as wrights, tailors, fmiths, &c. are merely
fufficient to fupply the inhabitants with their refpedive forts
of work : Some are paid by the day, or piece ; others have •
what is called cufiom tuori, 1. e. a ftipulated quantity of grain,
with their crofts plowed, and fuel brought in. All have as
much land as enables them to keep a cow or two, and a yard,
•r garden.

* Thare is no regifier of bnrials for this year*

f Ti§ abtvi is iba tKsM mwmher kttruJ im this ahurei^farJt J^* '783 s ^rf ihft
fif9€rdLjur% hrmgU frtm other ^riJUt^ it Uitig aifiema$y bere^ (a* vtelt at tlfewhw*}
f&r tU ^triiy 9f firmer refidemtere^ ibemgb remeved fi^m the ^rijb^ to Irimg back

tMr dead i$ nvhai tbty es& their own bnrial place* Oitiy m fiw ef tke refidentere

have ktrUd dfnahere^

540 Statijiical Account

ViUagef Marfits^ iif — It appeartt from yarioos decdst that
|fae town and Tillage of Clatt was ercAcd into a Imrgh of bai.
rony, with power to hold weekly and annual markets $• Ac-
cordingly, the late Colonel Harrt G#ai>ov of Knockefpock,
heritable proprietor of the laid burgh of barony, and markets
thereto belongings being determined to give all proper en-
couragement to the biA weekly markets and fairs, made pulw
lie intimation, in the Edinburgh and Aberdeen newfpapers,
of his intention to improve the burgh, and revive and improve
the markets ; and in the ihort intervals, in which he was per-
mitted to vifit his eftate here, he began to build better farxa
houfes ; to form plans for improving and inclofing the grounds;
of raifing flax, and introducing the linen manufadure, &c.
But, being foon after called abroad, Vm government fervice in
the Weft Indies, about the year 1784, his public fpirited de-
figns were interrupted, and have not been refumed iince, as
the Colonel died about three years afterwards. By this fatal
event, Government loft an excellent officer, and experienced
engineer ; and bis tenants a good mafter, who wiihed to fee
them thriving under him ; and one who had the improvement
of his native country much at heart.

Roads and Vropefed Imfrovtrntntt. — This parifli is inter*
feded by 2 highways \ the fbuth road from Edinburgh, lead-
ing

} By letter* of gift and donation, from King James IV. of Scotland, daud x6th
June I5*x, it was << creded into a free burgh of barony, with all the rights
*^ and privileges thereof; with power to the proprietor at that time, and in all
" time thereafter, to coniHtute and appoint bailie«, and other ofiBcers, neceflary
^ for guiding, governing, and ruling the faid burgh : And ^o have, bold, and
" keep therein a croft and market, upMi TueCday every week; and public
** fairs and markets, every year, for the fpace of eight days ; with the Uberticf ,
<* profits, duties and commodities thereof, in tetms of the forcfaid grant and
'* donation : Upon which letters of publication have been iiliied at difocot
** times, by warrant of the Lords of Council and ScOion 10 Scotland.**

of Chtt. 541

ing north towards Huntlj, Elgin, &c. ; and tbp public road,
from the high couotrj, down through Glenlivety CaWrach,
Rhynie^ Sec. towards Aberdeen ; which laft paffes within a
few paces of the village of Qatt. The great fouth road,
leading dire&lj north from the Caimie Mounts pafles through
the town itfelf, and the whole breadth of the pariih. It was
marde by the military about 25 years ago, and is kept, here, in
tolerabk repair. This road is fljorter by many miles, than that
leading by Aberdeen. A proper inn ercfted in the village of
Glatt, (as was intended by the late Colonel Gordon), would
render this a moft convenient fiage for travellers, either to
the fouth or to the north ; and the road being once frequented,
would contribute quickly to the improvement of the village.
A fpirited and tnterprifing heritor, by availing bimfelf of
tbefe, and fome other local advantages, and by circulating a
little money to begin adventurers in the mercantile and mann«
faAuring lines, might, through time, be repaid with large *
increafe ; and, at the fame time, give employment, and a de-
cent livelihood, to many, who, for want of fuch encourage.,
ment, drudge on through life, burdened with a family, upon
a few ridges of land, which can hardly afford them either fub-
fidence, or opportunity of exertion. The great and popular
objedions, againft attempts of this fort, are, the diflance front
the county town, or any proper fea port and harbour^ fcarcity
of fuel^ danger of engrof&ng the working fervants, and with-
drawing the hands neceffiiry for agriculture, &c. But all
thefe, in the prefent cafe, might be obviated by a prudent
economy ; particularly, by introducing a better breed andfize
of horfes for the carts ; keeping the roads in due repair, by a
proper application of the ftatute work ; and giving good en-
couragement to dealers and merchants to fettle in the village,
and to frequent the fairs and markets. As to want of fuel,
that complamt would foon ceaie, if the unreafonable coafting

duty

542 Statijlical Account

duty ttfam eoalt were taken off, or commuted. And as for
want of bonds for agriculture, the obvious remedy is, to
proportion the firms to a proper fize« and to work them,
either with two-horfe ploughs, or with oxen in hamefs ; ei«
ther of which would perform double the quantitj of work,
in the fame time, and to much better purpofe.

Heritors and Rent, — There are only two heritors, KnockeCr
pock and Towie, neiiher of whom refide. The eftate of
Knockefpock comprehends about three fourths of the parifii.
Of late, that family have refided in the pariih a confiderable
part of the year, and their fervants are conftantly here. The
valued rent of this par'fh, as ftated in the cefs books, is
12751. 48. 4d« Scotch. The grofs rent may be eftimated about
600L Sterling. The tenants and pofTeiTors of the ground pa^
the cefs, minifler's ftipendy^and fchoolmafter's falary.

Chursb^ (/r.-»The fabric of the church had a thorough re«
pair in 1779; and, with regular feats, would be a decent
place of worlhip ; but the old clumfy feats being ftill retained,
diffigures the look of it, and affords lefs convenient accommo-
dation for the hearers *• The manfe was built about 1725.
Both manfe and offices have undergone feveral partial repairs,
and at prefent ftand greatly in need of more. The ilipend is
500 merks Scotch^ in money, with i61. Scotch for communion
elements ; 42 bolls iridual of meal and bear ^ fome fervices of
plowing, and leading turf for fuel ; a garden, and a glebe, not

fully

* Hie eaft end of the chvrch appears to have been a Popift place of worfliip
of feme note, and of Ycry old date. When the feats were removed at laft ro*
paration, there appeared, on the back wall, and at the end, a neat ublet of
frecftene, about 3 feet fqoare, with fide colamns and a cornice. In the middle,

in profile, are efigiet of our SaTiour «D the croft; with the initials of the Scrip*

ture

of Chat. 543

fully 5 acres* It is mttch the fkioc as it was 159 years ago,
as appesurs bj a decreet of locality, dated Jane 1650, and is
now become very inadequate to the prefent rate and mode of
living, when the value of money is fo much diminilhed, and
the price of neceflaries fo much raifed and taxed. In 1760,
when the prefent incumbent fettled, he had his firft man*(er-
vant at al. 6s. 8d. Sterling, wages for the year ; at prefent,
he cannot have one, for the fame office, under fix guineas.
It is the fame with refpeft to prov-iions, furniture, apparel,
t^. Almoft every article is tripled in value.

J>£oo/«— There is a parochial fchool, and qualified teacher,
whofe falary is 6 bolls of meal, coUe&ed in fmall quantities
from the inhabitants ; befides aol. Scotch, as feffion clerk,
with the ordinary perquifites for baptifms and marriages j and
which altogether, with fcholars fees, will not exceed zxl.
Sterling a year. As this is much about the common rate of
fchoolmafter's livings through great part of this country, it
certainly calls for the interference of the Legiflatnre, to make
fpme more competent and decent provifion for fuch an ufeful
clafs of men, upon whom the morals and profperity of So-
ciety, as well as of individuals, fo greatly depends.

Poor.

turt infcriptioD on the top. The piece was ornamented with piinting, in co-
lourt of Vermillion, azure, and gold leaf, very bright and frefli. It was placed
about 5 feet high above the area, and probably ftood above the fpoc where the
altar was placed. Within the oppofite comer, at the front wall, was an apart*
ment, or dofet, of a cubical form, which feems to be the (acrifty where the
hoft, money and books were kept. Alfo, within the inner fconcing of the eaft
door, another fuch cUfet, but fmaller, probably for holding a veflel with con«
fecrated water, for fprinkling the people as they entered to worihip. At taking
down the old walls, the officious zeal of the workmea broke and defied the
ubkt, before i^ could be rcfcued firom their bands.

544 Statifiical Account

Poor.— There are no begging poor that belong to tbis p^
ri(h; althongh, Ijing along fo many bighwajs, the place is
ezceedinglj peftered witb beggars and vagrants, from tbe
Highlands and more northern diilrifts; as well as withyar^^rx
and fupplicants from tbe foatb, many of whom are great im*
poftors. It is nmch to be wifbed, that fome regulations were
fet on foot for rendering fuch perfons better members of fo^
ciety ; or at lead restraining them from becoming fuch bur-
dens on the public, and intercepting, and often extorting, by
threats and force, what might be very properly bellowed Tip-
on real objeds of charity. There are feveral indigent and
infirm perfons belonging to the parilh, who receive fnpplies
eccafionally, as well as at three ftated terms, Whitfunday,
Martinmas, and when the facrament is difpenfed. The week-
ly coUeftions in the church, and at the fecraments, and the
dues of the mort-cloth, are the only poor's funds here. But
they cannot be ezpefted to be very coniiderable in a fmall pa-
rifli, where there are no refiding heritors, nor gentry who at-
tend public worlbip ; or, fo far as the incumbent knows, be-
ftow any thing for the fupport of the parochial poor. Such
poor as live in and about the more populous villages, are fup-
plied, by their beneficent neighbours, with fome little necef-
farics, which they could not otherwife procure ; fuch as milk,
whey, turnips, potatoes, fuel, So;. When it is known, that
any old or infirm perfon is in want, it is cuftomary for the
young lads of that corner, to go out in an evening through
the pariQi, and to aik meal, or a little money, which the
people very cheerfully give -, and it proves a moft feafonable
fupply to feveral, who would be in hazard of fuflfering want^
rather than feem to be importunate, or burdenfome.

C^ara^^r.-— All the refiding inhabitants are of the Eila-
blifiied ChujTch, excepting one R^man Catholic, whofe wife

and

ofClatt. 545

cini famiij arePrefbyterians. Thej all attend the catechifiogt.
l*he people, in geiieraly are fober, intelligent, and indafirtous;
charitable, according t6 their circumftances, and fegular in
attending upon the ordinances of religion § though it i$ to be
regretted, that, in this laft refpefi, the gentry are far froiti
being exemplary, toi thoffi whom they deem much their in-
ieriots. It is lb far fortunate, hoWeyer, that the vulgar^ as
they are called, do not imitate tbiir betters^ otherwife we
ihouid have very thin churches* There is not perhaps fo
inueh of the outward fliew of religion among the people, as
~ in ibnoie other diftri^, efjfecially where the Secefflon has ob<.
iatned'; but, among the ordinary ranks, there is much de-
cency, find, it is to be hoped, not a little real devotion. One
diing, however, is dill niatter of juft complaint, through fe-i
vera! counties in this northern dlvifion of the ifland; too
great lastnefi and latitude^ in the manner of obferving the
Sabbath day ; and which, inftead of being devoted to reli-
gious exercifes, is often fpeUt in travelling on jotimies ; giv«
ing and receiving vifits ; fending fervants abroad, on errands
and meflkges; and fo abftrafting them altogether from the
fiated returns of public and fecial worfliip, which, to many,
is almoft the only oieans of iuftruAion they can enjoy. It is
certainly matter of regret, that in a civilited age and coun*
tty, not to fiiy a Chriftiah land, arid where we juftly boaft
of fo many other improvements, fo much refinement in po-
litenefs, drefs^ diverfions, 8cc. there (hoold be lb much cold-
sefs, not to fiiy negleA and contempt, ivith regard to piety
and the puUic ordinances of religion ; and fo little counten*
ance ihewn them, by thofe who have it fo greatly in their
t>ower, and who furely ought, to be exemplary to others, in
this firft and fundamental duty of every rational being.

Vol, VIII. 3 Z NUMBER

546 Stati/ikal Aciount

NUMBER XXXI Vl

PAltlSH OF DRYMEN.

(Jiount^ af Stirling-^VreJbyHry qf^umbartom-^yttod of
GJq/gow and </fyrJ)

By the Rtv. Mr. Duncan MAcfa&lan,*
Mwtfier o/tbat Parift^.

■ 1 <■

Origin of the Name.

TILE name, Drumen, or, as it is more commonlj writ-*
teni Drymenf is obviouflj derived from the Cekic
word, Druim^ corrcfponding to the Latin Dorfum^ a ridge
or eminence. It is peculiarly defcriptive of the appear-
ance of oon&derable part of the parifli, which is frequents*
\j interfered by deep ravines, or water courfes, with rifing.
grounds between ihem. The fame word is alfo to be met with,
as a component part in the names of maay places, as Drum^
qubqfile^ Drumdajh^ Drumliagart, t^r. The etymology o£
ihefe, and almoil all the other names in the pariib, is purely
Celtic.

JtxUnfl

rf Drymcn. 547

£ff/^ii^.— It is eztremelj difficult to give an aocurate idea
of the fimation of this pariih, as it is of ^reat extent, aad
its outlines are excecdinglj irregular. The utmoft length of
t}ie inhabited part is about ^5 miles ; but th^ noioors extend
confiderably farther. The greateft breadth is about 9 miles*

Surfaot^ Rivers and Fifi^.^-Avk, fome plaoesy the country is
migged and mountainous; in others, flat^aod level j but, for
Ae moft part, it is an irregular flope, between the high
moors and the rivers, cut up by a gr^at number of fnudl,
but rapid ftreams. The principal rivers, are, the Onchraj,
die Eorth, and the £nrick. The Duchraj is one of the moft
confiderable branches of the Forth, and divides this parifli, for
ibme miles, from that of Aberfoil. Near the church of
Aberfoil, it joins another confiderable dream ; and the united
river is then known ibj the xiame ^f Forth. Previous to
their confluence, the pariih of Drymen leaves them at « cour
iderable diftance ; but afterwards joins the Forth, near Gart-
more, abo.ut 5 miles to the S. £., where the winding courfe
of that river, for fome miles, divides it from that of Post*
The Enrick takes its rife in the hills of Dundaff, abo^t 15
Qiiles from Drymen., to the eailward* It feparates this parifli
from that of Killearn, and afterwards runs through it for
^ about % miles* It then forms the boundary between this and
the neighbouring .parifli of Kilmaronock ; and, about 4 miles
farther on, di&harges itfelf into (xichlomond. ^Thefe rivers
abound in trouts, par, .perch, pike, eels ,aad founders, with '
fome fidmon.

<Sot/.— .In fttch an extent, there tnuft neoeflarily be a gre^t '
diverfity of foil.^ The banks of the Forth are, in general,
covered with a deep mo(s.; but, where that is removed, the
iz^duAry of the farmer is rewarded, by a very rich clay, pro-

4 !^ 2 .dacing

54^ Stati/ticalJc»Htf{

dncing large cvopt of- gnuiu The lands MttXorick a|e, ii^
geaetal, light, drj, aod gravellj, a foil by pi9 maana aofiu
vourabJe in a moift dtmate. By far the moft com wm foil in
the pariih is poor» wet, and till/, cxtreoieljr 'vgifnftw lof^
coitivatioD. • ^ . • .^ . t sii j

ot 2O0r r-'
CtimaU^ fuflf Cultivmiiom, Fr^dmce^ t^r.^The pvogiMh •(
agriculture here has been mneh retarded, hjr a Taricty ofifnyr.
laTourmhle circamftaacest the chief of which are the cUmp^
9fid local fitoatioo. The weather, as might be ezpeded in
the Yicinitj of high mountains, and at no great diftanco'frtkiii
^the weft coaft, is in general yitrj wetj which rennets;, ih^
feed time and harveft exceediogl j precarious* Bot (bo ptfaui
cipal difadvantage is the diftance from markets and mannnau
The neareft market town is Dumbarton, about tx milea front
any part of this parifli ; and next to it Glaigow, wlitch is at
leaft i8«-^Tbere is fome liiUeflone to be had in the neigh«
bourhood, but of an indifferent qoaUtj. It is but little ufed,
as the country afi>rds no proper fuel for burning jsL The
farmers, in g<ftieral, bring their lime from Kilpattick, at the
diftance of li or 13 miles. Coals, which of late haye beem
pretty much ufed, are brought from the &me plaoe. Peats
and turfs are ftill, however, the moft common fuel ; but aa
in moft parts of the pariih, they are brought from a diftance
of federal miles, and as they require an uooommou degrep
of attention in cutting and drying, they are neariy as expen»
five as coals.*— The people, in general, have no idea of raft-
ing their land \ but plow, without iotermiffion, for many
fucceilive years, to the great detriment of their farms.^ The
common crops are oats and barley. The barley is chiefly
fold to diftillers ; and the average price is (rom i6s. to i8s»
per boll. Oat meal fells at from 14s* to i6s. per bolL

•fDrymen. ^49

'^«i;^Sfltj'#^^#.**Tbere is pnlj x village in die purifb, which

li#B u^at'^^dK chn,rch« The inh^bitanta are moftlj tradefniea

aid'i^yi^ibd^rers, who depend for employment upon the

I nfelj|rl|fc4«t4ig' CQnntrj, excepting a few weavers, whq worlp

\ for the manufadurers of Glafgow. There are PIlTenters of

various denomination^^ but none of them have a place of

I worfliip within the bounds of the pariih. A confideraUe

' pumber (peak the Gaelic language j and there are 3 or 4 whQ

d6 not underftand EogliOi.

Papulation. — Since the jp2x 1756, the population of this
parifh has greatlj dccreafed. This decreafe is partlj owing
to the prevalence of large farms. In fevecal parts of the pa-
rilb, X family now occupies wh%t wa9 formerly in the bands
of 7 or 8. Another caufe of the diminution is to be founcT
in the ptogrcis of manufadures. Though none of thefie have
M yet been eftabliihed in this pariih, they are carried on, at no
great diftance, to a very con^derable extend The bleaphfields
and printfields upon the river I,ieven, near Dumbartoni ar^
ptrhaps die* moft extenCve in Scotland : and Ibme la^ c^
ton mills have been lately ere^d in the neighbouring padAi
of Balfron. Thefo giv^ employment to a great number of
hands, at wages fo high *, that the farmers find it almoil im«
pofiiUe to procure fetyants at any expence.

* About so yean ago, the wsget of a maa iSmraat were aboat 4L a year %
itKf u« aow about id., aad fireqneptly a good deal higher. The wages of
ieoule lerrants bare increafed in ao equal propoftiom At that period, daj la*
bonrert received 8d. or lod. a day. They can fcldom be got now under it. 6d.
As the prices of grain, and the other produdiom of the country, have rifen
Tcry Kttle, the natural confequcnce is, that all the lukb are thrown into pa-
fture, in which fiate they requh-e fewer .hands, and eaa bs nanaged at left
Mipence,

5S^

Statiftkal Jcc^fuU

Statistical 7able of the Tartjb of t^RTNLEif.

^opDlation at retnraed to Dr. Webfter, in 1755,

Ditto, in Aprii 179a, - - ' - - • - -

pccreafe.

xx8a

Number of iiunilif t in the lil- ]

laje, ... 40

- inhabitants in ^ttOy a 15

- refidlng bcriton» ^
• Don»refident dxtlc^ so

-.diffenurt, abqvt - 400

- membertoftbeefta.
blifted churchy - iwy

Ninabcr of woimw,
>tai]orty
. Ibocinaken,
-Wright^
. ion-keepcira,

-coranul|s»
-iUs ditto.

Annual jtviragi of Births and Marriages • in the Pari/b of
Brymen.

From ift January 1743, to xft January 175J,
From ditto 1753, to ditto 1763,
From ^itto 1 763, to ditto 1773,
From ditto 1773, to <Mtto 1783,
From ditto J 783, to ditto X792i»

Birtbf.

Mar.

- 46

- 49

Heritors

* 77# «&Mxr tf rtf cw^mOy netr€Bedfrm At patothud recttis ; krf as tief ^fpear if
KM 4«]^« wili wry Acfr unttOim^ ^tra^ « emi/SderaUe ^rt tf At perud^
iheir aecmraey taiuioi Ae ^tfivdy itpmdei t^. Till ^try hidy^ m rt^tf rf dtaih^

ofDryttien. , §^x

Herittfrs and Rintr^Ther^ are 40 heritors intheparilb,
of whom about, one half refide. The Duke of Montrofe^
and Mr* Grahain of Gartmore, are the principal proprietors^
The valued rent in the ce£i books is 50691. xos. Scotch.

'n6!forri.-«-The church is fituated near the S. W. eaetre*
n^tj^of the pariih, about l^alf a mile .from ,ther river En-
rick. It was built about 20 jeara ago, and is a verj
c<lxtimodious and fubftantial edifice* There are two other
pfaces of worfbip in the pariflii each about 6 miles diftant,
v^ere the clergyman officiates twice a year. The prefent
fi^umbent was fettled in February zy^a.

' Pdor.— There are 3S poor upon the roll at prefent,
many of whom Txt altogether incapable of doing* any
thing for their own fupport. The pubfic funds are en~
tirely inadequate to their maintenance, feldom exceeding
!fol. pe'f annum. As no afSefTment for their relief has
been laid upon the heritors, they muft depend, in a great
meafure, upon private benefafiions ; and, in this refpeft, the*
truly neceffitous are much injured by the great number of
vagrant beggars, who, through fome egregious defed in our
police, are permitted to infeft the country, without any re-*
ftraiot or interruption.

Diftafes and longevity. ^^The cUolate, though moifi, is
by .no means unhealthy. The moil common difeafes, are
nervous feversy and complaints in the fiomach and bowels.
There are few remarkable inilances of longevity in this
pAriih. The' oldeft perfons now living,, have only com-
pleted their 87th year. In one family, there are four per-
fons at prefent alive, whofe ages, taken together, make ^24

jcartb

^ Eminent

5 J:2 Stail/ilcal Account

' Af MiP—This pviffli is fiud to have boen die to&
placet and at dnics tbe icfidence of Ae ftfnoiis NakiJI of
Mmaiftroy, die celebrated urrentor of die Logaridunu

AHiiqmiUs. — ^The only mark of antiquitj, now to be
dUcemedf ia a large earthcs aiooad, at a |daoe called
Cqfl^itf near whkb| it ia ftidy die Vefligea rf a Eonaa
Camp wete formerl j to be £aeo» dioogh now no ttacca of
it ace to be lonnd.

IQUMBEA

%f EdenkeiHie^ sSi

NUMBER XXXV.

PARISH OF EDENKEILLIE.
, (Jfrtfl^^cry of Forres^^Synod and Cwnty of Moray,)

By the Rev. Mr. John Macdonnel, lately Mimjler of that
Pari/bf now Mincer of Fo&R£S.

Origin of the Name*

THE name of the pari(b is dearlj c^ Gaelic origin;
jiodincoillie fignif jing the face (f the wood* It is def-
criptive of the nature of the parifh, which contained two
rojal foreftsi Ternway^ or Darnway^ and Drummine. In
the public records there is preferved a charter, bj King David
Bruce, granting f o Ricbarb Comtke, a predeceflbr of CUimming
of Altjre, an heritor in this parifh, the office of forefter of the
king's foreft olTterkway^ in the earldom of Moray. And there
is an after grant, in X4781 to Thobcas Cummtk£ of Alter, of
the office of forefter of the foreft of Drummyne* The remains
of natural wood, and the great quantities of oak and fir, found
ia the moiTes of this pariih, prove that the whole face of the
country was formerly covered with wood. The names of
many of the places in the parifli, (hew, what indeed might
naturaUy be fappofedi that it once abounded with deer. Drunu
Vol. VIH. 4 A mynf

554 Statifiical Account

mynt fignifies vinifonlnll; Bogan/btigh zni. jiucbindair^ the
places frequented bj deer in the rutting feafon, &c.

Extent^ EreSiotij Surface^ \3c. — This parifh is very ezten-
five, being, from N. to S.» about i% miles ; and, from £• to
W», about 1 o. It is fometimes called Braemoray \ and it was
anciently a vicarage to Forres, the feat of the Archdeacon of
Moray, and comprehended Ardclach, which was not erefied
into a feparate pariih till the year 1638. The face of the
country is in general hilly, but not mountainous: The higheft
hill in it, is called the Knock of Braemoray. The height of
this hill, which is not confiderable, has not been afcertained
by meafurement. Upon the banks of the rivers Findhom and
Divie, there are fome of the mod romantic rural fcenes, which
woodf water, roeks, and variety of ground can produce.

Proprietors and Rent. — ^Therc arc 5 proprietors ; of whom
only I refides conflantly in the parifli, and another occafionally.
The valued rent of the parifli is 1945I* 8s. Scotch : The real
rent cannot be dated with any degree of accuracy.

Rivers and Laie^^^TYkt Findhom, already mentioned, is the
principal river in this pariih. It takes its rife in the bills*
betwixt thofe diftrids of Inverneis-fliire called Stratber«rig and
Strathearn, above 50 miles from the fea ; after traverfing,
with amaxing rapidity, a trafi of mountainous country, in a
courfe nearly from S. W. to N. E., it difcfaarges itfelf into
the Moray Frith, about 4 miles below Forres. Over this
dangerous river, from its fource to the iea, there are only at
prefent a bridges *j one cpon the military road, from Avie^

* Near to Relugai^ tbe river Findhom runs between two rodu, which are onlf
7 feet diftant from each oth«r* A plank is here placed over it, which fenres for

a bridge.

of EdtnkeilUe. £^^

more to Tnvernels ; and another at Dulfie, upon the military
road from Granton to Fort-George. This river croffes the
great poft road to Nairn and Inveroefs^ £cc. And although
it often detains the mail for manj hours, and notwithftand*
ing the lofs of manj lives everj jear, no aid has jet been
procured from Government to build a bridge over it*. The
other river, called Divifj or B/aei Water ^^ h\ls into the
Findbom, and is perhaps one of the mod rapid rivers in
Scotland, rifing often very fuddenly to a great height. The
principal branch of it rifes among the hill^ which lie betwixt
this pariih and Stratbfpej. llie other braiach flows from a
prettj confiderable lake, in the S. W. corner of the parilli»
called Lochindorb. This branch is called Dorbaci^ till it joins
the Divie, about a mile below the church.

Roads and Bridges. "^Thit road, from Forres to Granton,
croifes the Divie bj a ftone bridge. The fame road crofles
the Dorback twice, and at both places there are ftone bridges.
In the year 1783, another bridge was built over the Divie,
near its jun&ion with the Findhom. The arch is 6% feet
wide, fpringing from the rocks on each fide. The ezpence,
about aaol. Sterling, was defrayed by a grant of lool. from

4 A a the

a bridge, and affordi accefs from a confiderable part of the pariih, lying on tho
weft fide of the river, to the church. Owing to the river being confined fo much at
this narrow paft betwixt the rocki, it rifes, in floods, to a prodigious height, fome-
times more than 30 feet above its ordinary channel

* Mifs BaoDia of Liratir, having procured fome aid from the county
funds, and fnbfcriptiona from her oeighboars, engaged in building a bridge
over this rapid river, about a miie below the houfe of Coolmony. An agree-
ment with workmen was entered into, to execute this ufcfiil underuking ; and,
in a ihort time, a moft elegant arch, 7s feet wide, was thrown over the river.
But, through fome unlucky defeat in the work, within lefs thaa a month after
it was paflable, this ufeful bridge gave way, tad, lA one night, fell into the
fiver.

£^6 Statifiical Account

Ihe CommnConers ti the Annexed EftstteS, sjK from the
^Gonnty funds, fome fubfcriptions from the neighbourhood,
and the remainder by Mr. Cumin of Relugas, who took the
whole charge of the work. It is a moft ufeful bridge for this
part of the country, opening a fafe communication, betwixt
the lower part of it and the higher, at a place where many
lives were formerly loft.— In addition to the above road, from
Forres to Granton and Aviemore, Sir James Grant, with a
view to Ihorten the dtftance from Elgin to Edinburgh, through
Strathfpey, has planned out a new road, on the eaft'fide of the
Knock-Hill, intended to pafs through the valley of Plufcar-
dine. This road is already made, with great labour, and mt
much expence, from Strathfpey to the extremity of this pa«
riih. When completed, it will ihorten the diftance from
Elgin to Granton no led than 8 miles. The gentlemen of
this pari(h are very attentive to the roads, and call out the
people t6 .perform the ftatute labour, with great exadnefs,
every year ; but the roads are of fuch extent, and fo difficult
to make, that it is impra&icable, upon the prefent fyftem, to
keep them in very good order.

Fijbing. — ^There is a coniiderable falmon fifliing upon the
Findhom, within this pariib, the property of the Earl of
Moray. It is let to a company in Aberdeen, at 901. Sterling
of yearly rent. The 2 laft years, 1791 and 1792, have been
very favourable. The Sluie Pool, where moft of the fid are
caught, has been celebrated, from the moft ancient times, for
the great number of fiih taken there. By a letter, dated 7th
June 1648, from James, then Earl of Moray, to the C^untefs,
it would appear, that the fifliing was greatly more abundafit
in thofe days than in latter times ; for he writes, that *^ ia
** one night, on this pool, 1 9300 lalmon were tsdc^en ; and, at
^i one draught, fix and twenty fcores." This curious letter is

of Edenkeillie 557

in the prefent Ead's pofleifion. Whence the great difference

I in modern times can arife, it is not eafy to explain; unlefs from

the fuperior (kill and induftrj of the fiihennen nearer the fea,

which prevents fo great a number now getting up the river.

Above the Sluie Pool, the channel of the river is fo rocky,

that boats and draught nets cannot be ufed ; and the filihers are

obliged to ufe hang nets, and other devices of that kind*

Among the rocks, long iron hooks, here calkd elips^ are ufed

for catching the fiih* So confiderable is the number caught

^ bj thefe devices* and by die rod, that the price of falmon,

I during fummer, is fomctimes fo low as three halfpence per

I pound, and feldom above twopence* — Salmon are alfo fome-

times caught in the Divie \ and both rivers afford excellent

fea trouts and finnocks, and a variety of other trouts of infe«

rior quality.

Wood* and Plantations .^^Tht natural woods in this pariih
are very extenfive. The banks of the river are in general
covered with trees. Along the weft bank of the Findhorn,
the ancient foreft of Damway, or Ternway, already mention-
I tdf ftretches, for upwards of 5 miles, covering about 900 acres

I of ground, and coniifting of oaks, aihes, elms, birches, allers»

hollies, mountain afhes, and a few venerable Scotch firs ; with
beeches, geen trees, poplars,^ and almoft every kind of tree
produced in Scotland. Among thefe the weeping birch makes
a diftinguKhed figure ; many of them being fo large as 9 feet
in girth. Some of the oaks, at the fide of the Findhorn, are
upwards of 10 feet in girth, at 3 feet from the ground. Thej
are freih vigorous trees, without the fmalleft appearance of
decay. Farther up the river, is the wood of Dunduff, which
is of confiderable extent, and likewife the property of Lord
Moray. And there is alfo a good deal of natural wood upon
the eftates of the other proprietors. But the plantations in

this

55 8 Statt/lscal Account

this parifli, are fntl mote ezteofive than the natural vr oods.
About the year 1767, the prefent Earl of Moray began to
fill up the vacancies ki the old foreft of Damwajr, and has Cace
gone on every year, extending his plantations aU around his
ancient Caftle of Damwayt and near to Caftle-Stewart, in the
parifli of Petty. The quantity of ground planted by his Lord*
ihip, including the ancient forefl, is confiderably above 3,400
acres. Part indeed lies in the neighbouring parifli of Dyke/
and part in the parifli of Petty, in Invemefs-fliire, but by much
the greateft part in this parifli. The nurferies from which
thefe plantations have been made, except a little at the begins
ning, have been all raifed at Damway. Scotch firs, planted
out at two years old, from the feed-bed, are ufed as nurfea ;
and as foon as they are fit to afford flicker, the more valuable
kinds of foreft trees, principally oaks, are planted amongft
them. Thefe oaks, at two years old, are planted from the
feed*bed into the nurfery, where they remain three years; and
then, as above mentioned, are planted among the firs. When
the oaks, and other deciduous trees, are fuffictently advanced,
the whole of the Scotch firs are to be cleared away ; and fome
of the earlier plantations are fo well grown, as to admit of the
firs being completely cut out. Others of them are only clear*-
ed of the firs in part ; and this operation of clearing goes on
gradually and regularly. The Noble Planter has already the
latisfaAion of beholding his publicfpirited plan fully anfwer-
ing his moft fanguine expedations ; to which he is weirenti*
tied, as every part of the plan, which is extremely fimpk,
has been carefully and accurately executed ; and proper atten*
tion paid to the prefervation of the plantations, which are all
in the moft flourifliing condition, and already greatly beautify
the face of the country. Having obtained an accurate account
of the number of trees planted by the Earl of Moray, fince
I the

of Edcnkcillic. 559

the year 1767, ,the public will, doubtlefs, be nmch gratified
with a copy of it, which is here fubjoined.

Oaks planted between November Z767, and aitnmn Z79r, • 596^000
Aib, beech» dm, fycamon, Sptnifli cheihut, fpnice firt, and

larb^ dufing the iame period, • 4 - - - - 3o8^oo#

Scotch fin, between November 1 767, and ftutumn 1787, - - 9,6^7/. 00

Total, - 10,^91,000

It will ftill require many years, before thefe very exteniive
plautations cao be filled up with oaks i but there is at prefent,
in the nurferieat a very large ftock of yonog plants coming
forward. The other proprietors have not been deQcient in
carrying on this improvement. On the eftate of Logic, there
are confiderable plantations of Scotch firs, and a confiderable
number of alhes, planted by the prefent proprietor's father,
fomc of them near 1 00 feet in height. One of thefe aflies
was lately fold at 5]. 138., at the rate of xs. 6d. per foot j
a ftrong proof of the profit of planting. And on the efiate of
Relugas, about aoo acres have been planted, upon a planfimi«
lar to Lord Moray's, and upwards of 60fOOO oaks planted out*
Upon the eftate of Dunpbail, there are fome dd fir plantations,
which have been cutting down, and felling for the ufe of the
country, for fieveral years pafl*

CImaiCf l^^..^The air and climate of Moray, from the mod
diftant times, have been celebrated, as of the pureft and mod
iSdubrious quality, by all the writers who have defcribed that
oountry ; and it has beea a conunon laying, that it enjoyed
40 days more of fair weather, than moft other places in Scot«
land. In Wl^itelocVs Memorials, a book of great authority,
r there is a curious tefUmony in favour of the country,^ in
Oliver Cromwell^s time : He fays, ** AMeld's regiment was

*< marched

560 Staiijlical Acctmnt

^ marched into Murrmyland, whidh is the moil fruitful conntrjr
«< ID Scotland, and the common proverb is, that it hath fifteen
** days more of fumoier than any other part of the nation.*' *
It is unneceflarj to mention the praifes given to it hj Bu-
chanan and others. The fuperior degree of dryneis, perhaps
applies more to the level plains of Morajt along the fea fide,
than to this parifli, where more rain falls than in the lower
parts of the country. But no place can enjoy a healther air
than this parifh does, being hardly ever troubled with fogs,
•r pernicious exhalations ; and the rivers, fb far from being
hurtful, rather tend to purify the air, by tlie rapidity of their
courfe. There are no difeafes peculiar to this part of the
country.

Fruity Orchard^ \3c. — ^Tn the valley of Logic, which is the
warmeft part of the parifli, ftandard and wall fruit trees grow
well. Mr Gumming of Logie, befides an excellent garden,
a good many years ago planted 4 Scotch acres of ground with
fruit trees. This beautiful orchard is dofe to the Findhom,
cxpofed to the fouth ; bnt on all other fides well Iheltered by
higher grounds, and tall foreft trees. In favourable feafons,
ic already richly repays the expence of planting and indofing*

Soil^ Cultivation and Produce^^^Thc foil of the lower part
of the parifli, near the rivers, is of a light dry quality, rather
tending to fandy ; but, when properly managed, very fertile
and produdive. A very great proportion of the parifh con«
fifts of muir and mofs ; great part of which might be improv-
ed, if lime, of which there is none in this parifli, could be pro*
cured. For though there is fbme in the parifli of Forres, it is
too expenfive an article for common tenants to purchafe, and

bitherte

*JjooL EdiL Anno X73S, p* jxf •

niciierto has not been furniflted ia anj fafficient* quantitj*
Thje onlj kinds of grain raifed in thii pariih, are barley, Scotch
ixsLT, oats, and fome rye; Every tenant plants a few potatoes
for family ufe ; but no great quantity is raifed; In the uppec
parts of the parifh, they prefer fowing the black or grey oats ;
Z fpecles much inferior to the iwhite; but the black 'dra
thought ihore produftive of ftraw for fodder} an attiele much'
wanted^ as a confider Ale nnmber of cattle are bred in the pa«.
riih. Eai-ming is in a Vety iirretched ilatb in this part of the
country; They give all thett dung to theit bear crop ; after
which the;^ take repeated crop^ of oats, fometimes 4 <^ 5 fuc*
ceilivelyi till the land hardly Returns the feed 1 and then it is *
left ley for fome years. Although the great benefit of greent
cropsj and a proper rotatioin^ had been (hewn by foine of the
gentlemen^ the example has hot hitherto had any eflfeA to im^
prove the pra&ice of the common farmers.

Bhci Cattle^ Horfts and SSeepj^A 6onflderab1e humbef o£
l^lack cattle are reared, in this pariflx, fomewh&t larger in ii^e^
than the Highland kind ; and mstny of them are u£ed id the
plough. The horfes are fmall, and of a very indifferent qua-
lity. Mod of the tenants keep a few fbeep; but the manage*
mentof that animal is not well underilood here. They had
no other kind, till of late^ but the ancient breed of the coun^
tryj with white faces, affording fine wool, and moft excellent
mutton. The beft of the wool of this fpecies, fells for z8s^
per ftone ; and^ though generally a fitaali aninfal, from poor
feediog, it may, when better kept, be brought to the fize of
X3lb. or Z4lb.- per quarter. This part of tlie country, abounds
ing in woods and rocks, affords too much harbour for foxea |
it is therefore JieceiTary to houfe the flieep at night in cotts^
Ivhfch makes the conflitntion of the animal rather delicate, and
liaa been the reafon of introducing the black faced Tweeddale

V0L.VIIL 4B breed J

562 Statiftical Account

breed ; which, though rather htnfier, is much inferiori both
tft to wool and mutton. // wiU be a great lofi to tie country^
If OUR AKCieirr bkced sbould w£ak out, of vabkb there is
great danger.

Fofalaiiom. — The regtfter of birtfis, marriages, and deaths^
baTiDg bees irregularly kept, prerious to the fettlemcnt of
the writer, which was onlj in i79Zt he can faj little upon
the population' of the pariih. The number of (buh, in the
return to Dr. Web(ler m 1755, was 1443 » *' is Jiow i8oa;
fo that the increafe is 557 ; and the population appears to be
ilill upon the increafe, as a good deal of the wafteknd, in the
jemoCer parts of the parili, has lately been brought into cuU
tare,, by families fettling in thefe wilder parts of it— Many of '
she people live to a great age. There aie two womeOt now
alire, whofe ages amount ta i8<h

Oemfatims^^Tht chief em^oymeRt of the snhabttanta 19
agriculture* The farms are very fiftall, from jL to icri., aaf
a very few go the length of toL a year, which fully accounts
lor the low dale of farmiog* — There is little ioduftty among
the men, except in the poor employment of preparing imd
earrying peats to the town of Forres, at the diftanoa of la
or za miles from the mofles, of which there ia an inexhaufti-*
Me quantity among the hills* The weaHen are £ligent fpin*
ners -j a branch of manufadure, introduced into this paiiih, Iqr
the late Dr. PATxrcK Cuhikg of Retagas, who obtained a
number of wheels and reds from the Society for Propagating
Chriftian Knowledge, and a falary to a fchoolmift«efs» But
there is flill much rodm for improvement in this branch.— «
The people, in this part of the country, have fiieh frequent in«
i%coutfe with the town of Forres, that they buy the greateft

parr

gf EdenkeiBic. $6^

part of th^r neceffaries at the markets there f • Thii like«
wife gives them an opportunity to get their owa manufadurea
4if0ofed of^ which are but very few. There are a fufficient
number of weavers and tailors, for manufaduring the fiuffs
worn bj the inhabitants. There are a (hoemakers, 4 coopers^
and 10 riddlemakers ; and almoft every man in the parifli is
a cartwright. They make their carts of aller and birch dm-
ber^ aud fupply the Elgin and Forres markets* The price of
them, in general, is from €s. to i2s.

Dt/KUeries. — ^There are no lefs than 4 diftiUeries for mak-
ing whiiky in this pariihi which confume a great quantity of
barley } and, what is aftonifliing, they fell thefe fpirits as fa^
as they can run them ! The inhabitant of this parilh are^
however, in general, fober. Their whiiky they fend up to
Strathfpey and Badenoch. To account for the conftant dc*
Qxand for whiiky in the north of Scotland, we muft refled,
rhat, of late years, a total flop has been put to fm'uggling, by
the great attention of the rcvepue officers, in the weft and
north coafif of Scotland, which formerly fupplied the whole
country with foreign fpirits. It mud, however, be allowed^
that there is more of this liquor ufed by the common people^
than is good for. their health or morals.

Churchy l^r,— .The church is fituated upon the banks of
the Oivie, about 8j- milts fouth of Forres. It was.built 19

4 B 51 I74«i

f The pricet •£ jiroviioDt »re KiQch remitted by the aci|M»OQriilg town qf
FotRt. Hem are fold for 6d. a piece, chickens 34.» ducks id., geefe as.; eggs,
per dosin, ijd*; fwcet milk, per pint, |d.; ikiomied ditto |d.; batter, per
pound, Sd. ; and cheele, per ftone, 4$. : get farm Cenraats, (rom iL ics. tb si.
in the half year, with 6{ bolb of meal in the year, or Yidvals 10 the hoi Cit
women fenrants from Ijt. to tl. in the half year, with^dvals, or |. Jkpnet ol
PHpl : day lahonrert yd. or 9d, in fommer, and W. m winter.

564 Statytlcal Account

IT^lf and, with fome repairs, might be made a very coromd*
dious place of worihip. The manfe, which is of an older
date, is not in good condition. The ftipend is 4il. 2s. 2|d.
Sterling, and three chalders of yidual, half bear half mea),
with a ^lebe qf ei?ht acres, and a good garden. The Earl of
^f oray ia undoubted patron.

Scbo^it and Poor.— There is ^n eftablilhed fchool in this
parifh, the falarj onljr 100 merks Scotch. *The number of
Scholars is about 30. Reading Englifh, writing and arith-*
xnetic are the branches of education com monlj taught* There
is at prefent only z fchool in (his parifli, fupported by the
Society for Propagating Chriftian Knowledge, though there
is a claim /or three^ in confcquence of a donation by Dr. Dun-
CAN CuMiNO, fon of James Cuming, Efq. of Relugas*. This
ichool, however, is of great utility, being fituated in a part of
the parifb, altogether detached from the church and the parifli
fchool. — The poor's funds are very fmall, not exceeding 5I.
Sterling annually, arifing folely from the coUefiions at the
^hurch ; but the deficiency is made up by the charitable dif-
pofition of the inhabitantSi who never refufe to aflift thofe iit
iiftrefs.

jintiqttities. — ^In the upper part of the pariib, among th^
hills, between Strathfpey and Braemoray, ftood the Cqftle qf
Lochindcrh^ built on an ifland, fituated in the middle of a lake
of the fame pame. It appears to have been a very confider*
able place, and a fortreis of great ftrength. Catharine it
Seaumont^ widow of J)(ividdf ffaJingSf Earl of AthoU, who

was

f Thi» gentleman ms phfiiciaii to ]|^ing Winiam |IT. at the battle of tfa^
Beyne, in 1690, and afterwards iettled as 9 pbj(i€iaii io Dublin. In 27x41 be
icDt the fum of 261L 13s. 7d. Sterling to the Society, with 9 rccommcndatioiu
that they fbould keep always 3 fchools in this pari •

of EdenkcilUe. 'j^jf

iiras killed at thp battle o( Kilblaine, anno 1335, refided in
this caftic, which was blockaded bj Sir Andrew Moray, the
regent during Xing Davi4 Bruce^s captivity. In the follow^
ing year, Edward III. of England led hi3 army northward,
the length of Invcrnefs, and, oa his y^ay thithei:, raifed the
'fiege of this caftle. It feems afterwards to have been convert*
ed into a ftate prifon \ for, in the year 1342, the famous
William Bullock^ who was a great favourite of King David
Sruce, was imprifoned there, and died through extremity pf
cold and hunger f • The remains of this caftle cover a fpace
of ground, not lefs than 100 fquare yards.
' The Downe Hill of Relugas feems to have been a fortrefs
of ftlll greater antiquity, and ufed as fuch far beyond the
period of authentic biilory. It appears to have been a placfe
of ftrength, to which the inhabitants pf the country retired,
with' their cattle, u|)on the invaiion of the Danes, to which
this country of Moray was Co frequently expofed. It is a
conical hill, round a coz)Sderable part of which runs the sapid
river of Divie, in a deep rocky channel j and, where net de«
fended by the river, it is cncircjed by a deep foffee, or ditch,
with a ftrong . rampart on the outfide, moftly Compofed of
.^ones, fome of which have the appearance of vitrification ]:•
About a mile higher up the fame river, ftaods the Cqfilg
4f DunpbaUf upon a xo^]pi of a very lingular appearance, fur-

rounded

f FiJe Lord Hailes't Annal^ voL \L p. 189, 190, and 309.

\ Upon the fnmmit of thithiU, which i* aao feet of perpendicular faeiglit
above the riTcr, there is a level fpace, in the form of an oblong fqoare, about
4o ^ards in length, and oo in breadth. This level piece of ground has been
converted into a nurfery for trees. In digging the grpund, a quantity of hutnao
bones, aihes and chareoal were found. When the country was covered with
wood, th;s place, from its difficulty ol accefs, and the dceptiefs of the hill itfelf.
xnnft have been of great ftrength, and eafily di fended by a handful of men agalnib
ffreat numbers.

j:68 Statifilcal' Account

Situation^ Extent^ and general Appearance. Thefe parlflie j afff
fituated in the upper part of Strathern, in Perthfliire. They are of
a triangular forai,aadof confid^rableextcdt ; being about 8 n^iles
long, from N. to S. and about 6 miles broad from £• to W;
The general appearance of the countrj is romantic. The
Grampian nionntairis, on the north, are among the higheft iii
the neighbourhood. The lei&r hills, in the bottom, are pic-'
turefane in their forms, having their fides covered with fine
copfe wood, arid their heads crowned with flrs. The river Em
flows, in beautiful curves, in the bottom of the vallej.

Soil and Cultivation. — ^The foil is various, but the greater
part is lighk and gratellj. T^e hsiughs on the lyanks of
the Ern, which are frequentlj overflown, produce rich cropsr.
The banks next the bottom, have long been cultivated as
infields ; that is, ground which receives all the manure, pro^
duced from the lands in the tenants poflefiion. It is therefore
very rich ; but, from conftant culture in white cr^ps, is much
infelted with weeds, efpecially if frequent mild rains fucceed
fowing. Late fowing is therefore praftifed under the old huf-
haxxArj ; the inconvenience of which is the lefs fislt, as the foH
is dry, well expofed, and well (heltered, and therefore naturally
«arly* Another kind of foil, employed in tillage, lies on the
banks above the infields^ This ground is prepared for yield-*,
ing three crops of oats, by folding the cattle upon it, or hy
watering it^ by means of the rivulets which run from th&
hills : And, after being thus cropped, it is thrown into grafsv
Thefe fields^ not being fown with grals feeds, fuffer much, f roio:
their floping poflure, before they gather a fwaird fufficient t6 pre^
vent the heavy rains from waihing away great part of th^
£neft of the foil. They are now, however, at leaft in fom«
parts of the parifli, allotted for the winter pafture of the fheepr
that are kept on the hilTs in fummer» The infield grooadsv
• ' ^ thoogjn

of Monmaird aitd Strowati. gCg

Ihoogh neither limed nor marled are uncommonljr fertile in
Batural graCs, The lands, which are limed or marled, belong-
ing to Sir William Murray of Ochtcrtyre, are thrown into
regular rotations of cropping : And the tenants are thriving,
under this fyftem* But the greater part of the foil is better
fitted to produce grafs than corn ; as much of it lies in fteej^
banks, abounds vrith ftones, and is liable to be wa(hed away
by the rains when in tillage* There are no commons in the
parilh ; apd little mair, er wafte ground, is brought into till-
age, except by the above mentioned proprietor and his ten-
nasts. Although a great proportion of the land is incapable
of being cultivated, yet there is enough of it arable, for pro«
docing more than i? necefiary for the juatntenance of its
inhabitants.

Produce and Cilimate,r^Thc pnriocipal crops are oats and
barley. Potatoes and peafe are the only green crops raifed by
the tenants. Turnips are only fown by a very few, chiefly
proprietors. The foil of the pariih fit for culture, when well
treated, produces excellept barley, which, all things confider-
0Aj it found to be a more profitable crop than wheat, which
has been very little attempted here. A confiderahle quantity of
iint is raifed in the parifli ; particularly on the haogh grounds^
which, from their fituation, receive an annual depofit of rick
mud ; or on the fpota of infield, which have been for fome^
years in grafs, for the fecond crop ; or in old parks, of good
and.well*laid*down land, alfo for the fecond crop; and on the
xhoft fertile of the outfields, which can admit' of being
wrdi watercid. In fliort, the propenfity to fowing liot here is
fo great, from the profits arifing from it, that the more inteU
ligent proprietors redrift their tenants to a certain quantity ;
as lint is a very fcourging crop, and leaves nothing behind tof
feciTuicing the (oil. — ^From what has been faid of the parifl^
. yo;..ViII. 4C witlj

5 70 Statiftical Account

with tegard to fituatioo mnd foil, it will appear, that it mall
be heakhj : And it reallj is Co ; few dying before a matim
age.

Rhtrs and Jj^.~«The priocipal river is the Erne ; which
would abound with falmon, if they were not prevented from
getting up, by the cruives and fixed nets iiear the mouth of
the river. As the proprietors above can get few of them in
fummer, they take no charge of them during the fpawning
feafon, when great numbers of them are defiroyed. It is
therefore probable^ that the owners of the cruives ifould find,
more advantage in the oommoo ufe x>f nets, if the piroprietora
of the upper grounds had an inteceft in protcfting the lalmoa
during the forbidden timey becaufe the numbers would be
much greater than what are now al)owed to be bred. And
it is a well known faftt t^^t a very great propoi;tion of the
£dmon bred in a river return to itt unlels prevented by fom^
accidental or artificial caufe.

Laits aad Echo^-^^Thcn are feveral (mall lakes in Ae pa*
fifli. Tbelargeft of them, Lochtorret, lies in Cjrlentnrret, and
is furromided by very bold craggy mountains. It is about a
oiile long, and a quarter of a mile broad. There is alfo a
fmall lake, in the fame glen, about a mile north from the
fbraser, remarkable for the great number of trouts which are
colleAed in a fmall opening ia the middle of it, the only place
which is free from weeds* There is another Iske, called die
Loeb o/Mmioairi^ which covers about 30 acres, and contains
pike, perch and eels. This lake, fituated at the bottom of a
fine hanging wood, and furronndcd by cultivated fields and
plantations, is a delightful olqeft to pafiengers, and a great
beauty to the plesfure grounds of Ochtertyre* It contains a
rich treafure of iheU marie, which is taken up, in many

of Monwdrd and Strawan. 571

places, £rom the depth 6f 94 feet ; and although covered, in
feme parts, wkh 5 or 6 feet of mofs, or mud, which muft be
previouflj removed hj the dragging inftrument, it is, notwith-
ilanding, obtained at an ezpence of from aid. to 3d. per bolh
It 19 prioctpatlj bj means of this marie, that the proprietor
has cultivated a confiderable ttaA of wafte and unprodu&ive
ground, and induced his tenants to adopt a fpirited and regu«
lar fjfiem of hulbandry.-— On the banks of the laft mentioned
lake, there is a fine repta^ng echo, produced, it is fuppofed,
from the walls of an old ruinous caftle, which ftands on »
gently rifing ground running out into the middle of the lake ;•
ftnd which was a place of flrength in ancient times^ being*
then furrounded with water, and accel&ble only in one place
bj a drawbridge*

Wwdi aad fTJttr.-— All kinds of wood, produced in Scotland,
thrive remarkably well in this parilh ; but the oak feems to
be a particular favourite of the foil. Befides the oak and
birch, of which the copfewood chiefly coofifts, a great variety
of other trees have been planted of late, both on the efiate of
Lawers, the property of Colonel Robertfon, and on that of
Ochtertyre, the property of Sir William Murray; patticular-
ly on the lands of the latter, who has, for more than 20 years,
planted annually incredible numbers of all forts.-— The higheft
mountain, on 'the northern extremity of the pariih, is Ben*
chw%Uf which fignifies the molly mountain, there being
about 40 acres, on its fnmmit, covered with a fpecies of mofs*
Its elevation, above the level of the fea, is 3921 feet* Near
the bafe of this mountain, on the eaft, u a dufter of fmall
conical hills, which ftrikc the eye of every ftranger as a curi-
ous lufw natuTit. Tarlumf a hill on the 'fouthem extremity
of the parilh, is 1^400 feet above the level of l!he fea« The
hills in the parilh are in general very rocky, and covered with

4 C 2 heath.

572 Statyiical 'Account '

heath. They have» however, many green fpeCs intermixed ;*
aod they smfwer well for paftwring (heep,- wkh which they are
now covered.

Wild Animals,,^^TYkt prineipal birds of prey are the cagle^
kites raven and falcon, which build their nefts in the craggy
precipices of Glenttirret. This glen was famous, in formec
times, for producing falcons of the beft kind, when hawking
was a favourite amufement in this country. It produced th^
pair, which the late Duke of AthoU prefented to the King at
bis coronation, as a token of his hdding the Ifle of Man of
the Grown of England. On the hills, are groufe, dottorel,
plover, and feveral migratory birds, wbofe names are not very
well known here. A few ptarmigans are to be met with on
the fummit of Benchonzie ; birds which frequent only the
tops of high mountains, and which are fupppfed to feed on
the infeds bred among the grey mofs, which is almoft the
only plant that grows on fuch elevated ground. In the hilly
part of the parilh, the fportfmen fometimeSTmeet with a fpe«
cies of hare, which is of a Uuifli colour io fummer, and white
as fnow in winter. The principal water fowl, which frequent
the, lakes, are the wild duck, teal, and widgeon. In the low
grounds, are found all the birds which ufually breod in a
woody country. The bullfinches have become very numerous
of late, attraS^d, it is fuppofcd, by the blolToms of the larch
trees, which abound io the young plantations, and which af-
fcrd them food, before the fruit trees put forth their bods.:
There are partridges, hares and rabbits, iu abundance j and a
few foaes^ badgers, wild cats, martins and otters.

Black CattU^ Horja^ Sleeps t/c.-s— There are about 140
faorfes in the parlfii, between 900 and icoo black cattle, and
about 5000 fheep. The horfes are of a middling' fize, and in?

general

of Monhaird and S fro wan. 5 73

|cdenl not very handfomey as the common people pay llttio
attention to the improvement of the breed. They are equally
negligent with regard to their black cattle; but it is hoped,
that the prizes, which the gentlemen of this country mean to
diftribtttc annually, among the owners of the beft bulls, will
have the effe& of improving the breed of cattle. The breed
of bor(e8, too, would foon improve, were every confiderable
proprietor to keep a haadfome ftallion for the ufe of his te-
nants. The flieep of this country are of the black faced kind,
and came originally from Linton. They are hardy ; but their
wool is ihaggy and coarfe. The avmge price of wool, this
year, is 8s« per ftoae. The carcafe weighs about 2 ftones Dutch*
Had the hill grounds been let to experienced iheep farmers
from the fonth country, the breed of flicep, and the wool,
would perhaps have been more improved by this time, and
higher rents given for tho fbeep walks. But as thefe advan-
tages could not eafily be obtained, without depopulating the
country, the proprietors have let the hill grounds to their old
tenants, contenting tbemfelves with what rent they can eafily
afford to pay. A few of the Cheviot iheep have been lately
introduced into the flocks kept in the low grounds, for the
ufe of private families, and thrive very well. T^ie hill tc-
'nants, however, feem unwilling as yet to make trial of them,
as they think them too large for their paflure, and not hardy
enough for ftandiog out fevere winters. As the pafiure im-
proves under the iheep fyftem, a larger fpecies of that animal
will be gradually introduced.

RnU and Pro^nV/or/*— The arable land, in genersl, lets from
about los. to 15s* per acre; a fmall part of it, indeed, for 20s,
and upwards. The hill grounds are not let by meafure, but by
the lump.— Tlie proprietors are xa in number ; of whooi only
a of the greater, and I of tt^e fmallcr heritors reiide in the pa«

5 ^4 ^^' ^iVtf / Account

fifli. The arable fkrms are, in geoerali from lol. to yk^ a
jear. There are a few tenants who pay from 40L to 6ol.

EccUJiafiicQl StaU^-^Tbert are two or three of the Epilco-
pal church, a few Antiburgher Seceders, two or three BereaoSf
a fed of which Mr. Bakclat, in Edinburgh, it the founder,
and one Roman Catholic. The Earl of Kinnoul is patron*
The ftipend famonnts to 50!. in money, and 2 chaMera of
▼idual, half meal, half barley, and a glebe of about 7 ac^es*
A prooeia of augmentation is now depending. The manfe
was built about 40 years ago. In 1781 it was repaired, and
n^w offices erefted. ItltB not certain, when the chnrchea of
Monivaird and Strowan were built. About the beginning of
laft century, a party of the Murrays and Drummoods having
quarrelled, the former being worfted in a flLirmifli, fled for
fonftuary to the church of Monivaird, whither they wero
purfned by their favage enemies, who fet fire to the toof^
which was then thatched with heather, and burnt many of
them to death. The church is now in very good repair; and^
though far from being elegant or commodious, it is at leaft
as decent as many of the churches of Strathem.

Pear, — ^The number of poor at prefent on the roll, who
receive a ftated weekly allowance, is fix* Befides thefe,
however, there are feveral others who receive alms Qccafioo-i
ally. The ftinds for their fupport are the weekly colledions,
dues for the ufe of the mortdoth, and proclamation of banns,
together with the intereft of 7il., amountbgin all, at an aver«
^ge, to 141. a year. There are no poor people in the pari(h,
it is faid, who beg from door to door ; and the fow, who are
in very ftraitefled circumftaaces, never apply for relief to the
pariih funds, till they are oDmpellea by dire necei&ty *•

4 In ibe fcaibotaC dearth, la sjZz sad 17S3, there were knpl poor boufe-

of Monivahrd and Sfrowan^ 1 7^

fopulation* — ^T^e iohalyitants have gready decreafed'ivithiii
tbefe laft 40 years. This decreafe is chiefly owing to the
union of fodle of th<i ftnall arable farms* and to the removal
of many of the cotters to the neighhouring villages of Crieff
and Comrie.

The return to Dr. WeVfter'finqairietiWu • • ^i 1469
At prefinc, the number amounu onlf to • • • • loaj

Decreaie, - - - -431

The average of birtht for lO |WH ^^'^ ' 734 to X?4i» if « 4^

pitto, from X750 to 1759, - . - * • ' * St

Pitto, from X 78a to 1791, - • • -• • . 30

plttoof marriages, from ^78 » to X 79X9 * « * * 9

Ditto of dinthfl, for the fame ^iod, 7 f • ' « • XS

Antiquities* — ^Th|$re are no crofles nor Q]^li(ks in the parifli|
except the crofs in the markfit place a( Strowan, conoernio^
which there is nothing remarkable, bf t that the initials of
Jesus Nazarekxts Rex JuDiEoauM are the only charadeca
on it that are legible. The remains pf two Roman pofta of
obfervation are to be feen on the eftate of Ocbtertyre ; one of
which is fo chofen as to command a view pf the camp at DaU
ginrofsy the other that of the camp on the muir of Orchil*
On a hill called Twn^O'hajHe (i. e. Cafikbill^^ aboot 3 milea
eaft from Dalginrofs, the traces of a fortification tra ftill
vifible. About 50 jt9x% ago, moft of the flones were earriid
away by the proprietor, to inclofe fome grovinds at the bottom

% ^

ho]dcn« who could not be prevailed upon to acctpt of aof o£ the om^ tUflARRii
^7 Goforoment* till they were told it was a pfcfept from the Kaag, and not
f unulbed from the poor's fmidi. This fpirit of indepeadenbe pcwaila ifioft
among the oldeft iet of tenantry in the paiflh; who» haviiig a ^Und of Cunilf
^larader to fupport, are awift from doin^ any ihtffg that woittd ioem la dor
^deit* t

^y6 Stailftical Account

oftbeliilL Whether thb fort was erefted bj the Earl of
Strathern, as tradition fajs, or whether it is of a more ancient
date, cannot be eafilj afcertainei *•

Eminent Jl/^pn.— Colonel DoW, author of the Hjfiory of
Hindoftan^ whofe literary merits are well known, was a na-
tive of this pariih.

Advantages and Difudvantages. — The falubrity of the air^

the iine fprings of water, the numerous rivulets, the goodnefs

pf the roads, ^nd a vatietj of other circumftances, render this

. ^ . P»rt

* Kear the weftcni extremitf ^l the parijli, there am two Droi^ical teapln.
Befides thefe remaisf of antiqait), manj Urrrms^ or hcapt of ftooei, knowa^ in
the ancient language of the coantry, hj the name of wnu, and intended for fe-
pulchral monument, were to be feen a few yean ago, near the banki of '^the
Brae, towwda the eaftcra extremity of the pafilh ; bat they have been Ufedf
f emoved, for the parpofe of buildiiig ftooe fcneet ; and na oaeinorial now t^
snaitts of the illuftrifiu dead whom they ooce corned. Some miles to the apitlft-
ward of the church of Moolvaird, there if a very large barrow, called fiarn
ChaiMkhim^ or monumental heap of Kenneth. From the name and fituation,
we prefume it was raifed to the memory of that Kenneth, whole death is r«-
cwded is the following linetof our oldeft hiftoricalthronicks : r

^9 tnauahtt ^at, BAftDOEOM CAMVDS Mthv^
« I A mato Kemmedi, mmms Malcolom i.

This Keaaeth was the IVth of diat ntme. H« is ofnally mentaoned in bift^rya
by his. epithet of GaiM, or O&imos s in the fame manner as Oao has loft his
proper name for its adjun^ Durr, or Durrus. The regiiker of St. Andrews
informs us, that " KennOb (Qrim)^ fon of Odt fDuU^Oit)^ was ilain by J\ialeolm
** tbe II. and fon of Kenneth the HI. at MoieghTard, in xooz/* About ibo yards
weft from the church of Moni^aird, a barrew was opened fome years ago, in
^ich two iiVns wereYonnd, dich contaSning a ftone of a bloilb eolour, fery hard,
about Ibur inches long,' and' of t triangular Ibape, fomewhat refembling the head
«f,an ax. ' OAe'of theni is in the pc^eflkm of Pirta MnaaAT, E(^. younger of
fMitertyre. I ilm eoM tfa^ are of she' fame kind of ftone and ftape, with tholb
ipHieh the iaM^talifes'ot tha SoathJSea iftands iafttil to a fliift, syHl vfe at a.
weapon ia war.

i)f Monivaird and SlrGwan^ 577

]>ftrt of Strathem a delightful country to live in, particularlj
'during the fummer feafon. The chief inconTcniencey we feel^
is our diftance from coal ; which, though brought in -carta^
over a hilly road, upwards of 20 miles, is a cheaper fuel than
peats or wo«d. We have now, however, the profpeft of
having this inconvenience in fome degree remedied, by the
turnpike road, that is propofed to be carried irom Crieff to
Blaimgone, which is our neareft coal pit* Indeed, nothing
feems to be wanting but coals to make this a very thriving
country, for if that neceilary article could be got at a mo*
derate price, we ihould find limeftone in abundance for im-
proving our lands. We fliould alfo have manufa£tures of
^different kinds eftablilhqd among us, as we have the fineft falls
x>f water for driving machinery, particularly on the Erne and
^he Turret, in the neighbourhood of the populous village of
Crieff, On the latter river, there are not lefs than 15 or 1 5
mills, of different kinds, in the courfe-of a mile and a half ^
and as it takes its rife from a lake of confiderable extent, by
ereding a dike at the .mouth of ^e lake (which could be done
for 1 51*), a fufficient quantity of water could be obtained, for
driving the he^vieft machinery, even in the greateft drought.
The manuf adored goods could be eafily tranfported, ixom.
Crieff to PerUi, by the turnpike road, which is now forming
between thefe two towns ; or by a canal, which could be car-
ried from Crieff to within a mile of the Tay, without a lock.
Thefe improvements, however, we do not cxpeS to fee car-
ried to their greateft height, unlefs we can find coal nearer
than Blaixngone. Our proprietors, therefore, who ihew
ahundance of public fpirit on moft. occafions, fliould unite^
and make a fair trial for diCcovering coal in Strathern. Were
they to take the lead, all the pariibes around would certainly
.contribute liberally towards fuch an undertaking.

Tox. VIII. 4 D NUMBER

57I StatiJIicalJccamt

NUMBER XXXVII.
PARISH OF KILBRIDE IN ARRAN,

{County (ffBute — Prejhytery 0^ Ktntyrf^~^yno4 of Argyll.]
By the Rev. Mr. Gershom Stvakt^- Minijler.

Names and Extent.^

ARRAN is derived from the Gekic word jirin. Ar^
fignifies higb^ and In an ijland. Kilbride is (aid tQ
be compounded of Kil^ a burying place, and Bride^ a coo^
tra£tion for Bridget, the name of an ancient faint. The ez«
tent of the parifb, from Dippin on the fouth^ to Lochranza ox^
the north, is 14 miles. A ridge of hills feparates it, on the
weft, from Kilmorie. The Ifle of Arranis 7 miles in breadth^

filoiV, Produce and Catfle.-^The foil is hard and ftosej.
Moft ^of the farms Ijing on the declivity of hills, the beft
prepared land fcarce yields two returns. To fupply the de«
Aciency of com, the inhabitants plant great quantities of po-
f itoes, which are their principal food for 9 months in the
year. They lay out, upon feed com and meal, about 500I.
a year; and they fell annually about 2co bolls of barley;

*/* Kilbride in Arlratik 579

t>erides 500 head of black cattle, and 80 (heep. Part of the
latter are killed for home confurfiption. Oat of thefe articles,
dnd the profits of their fiflj, they are enabled to pay their
rents.

Fijbing. — ^FiQi of all kinds are caught round the ifland. In
the beginning of winter, fifhermen come from the North
Country^ to filh for the Glafgow market, and continue with
fuccefs till May. In July, the herrings frequent the coafti
when the inhabitants bellow the molt unwearied application
to the fiihing till the end of November. It is computed, that
the boats, employed in this fiihing, bring into the ifland no
iefs thsm lOooL a year.

Climate and Di/ea/es.-^The air Is very falubrious. There
IS no fultry heat in fummer, the air beiiig conftantly purified
by land or fea breexes. People advanced in years, however^
6ften complain of coughs and rheumatifms duririg winters
Thefe difeafes are much owing to the dampnefs of their houfes^
and the fcarclty of fuel, to render them warm and comfortable^
%hich is occafioned by the coal lax. For many years pad , a great
fiiumber of children died of the natural £mall pox. Parents
are no\^ moie reconciled to inoculation, as they find that thi^
artificial diltemper, under the diredion of a ikilful furgeon^
faves the lives of numbers. There is a diford^r^ no lets fatal
to children, which feems to be peculiar to this ifland, as it ia
feldom inown any where clfc, called the tigbt-dayjitknefsi
Infants are feized with it the 8th day after birth, by the fall-
ing down of the jaw; attended with violent convulfions. ' Nd
means have yet been found effeAual to remove this diforder.
Much of the caufe is afcribed to unflulful midwives"^.

4 D i Mountaim

♦ Thii difcafc it mentiQDed by Dr. UM»EawooD (vol. 1. p. J36), under th*

580 Statiftlcal Account

Mountains and Minerals.— Go^iMd is the higheft hih lii'
the pariih. It is 2,840 feet perpendicular above the level of
the fea. There is not a more extenfive profped in Britain^
than the top of Goatfield affords. Manj tranfpareiit ftones
are found on it, naturally formed into pentagons, heptagons
and cdagons, and all pointed at the top as if done bj art*
Lapidaries purchafe thefe floneSr ^nd apply them to various
ufes*. At Corrie^ near the fea-ihote, there is a rich mine of
marie and lime ftone, which might, at a fmall ezpence, be
carried coaft-wife round the ifland, to the weft fide ^ where
there are extenfive farms, upon a foil of a mixed loam of
claj and mofs. Marie and lime, laid on this ground, would
produce great crops of corn, which is much wanted in the
ifland. At Cock of Arran there are free ilone, lime ftone,
iron ore, blind coal and flates. The iIates,.on trial, are found
to be of an excellent quality. Within an £ngli(h mile of
Lochrahza harbour, a cart road is already made, from the ilate
quarry to the ihore. On both fides of Lamhlajh Bay^ there
is a fine free ftonc, between the beds of which craw coal i^
found. And it is affirmed, that wherever this appears, there
is a body of coal under itf. A coal^ fo near a fine harbour

title of **ihefevtn days difeafe i^ but he doci not defcribe it accunitelf, nor at-
tempt to inveftigate its nature. In the opinion of an eminent phyfician in this
city, " the difeafe cannot proceed from any injury, which the child can foffer

* during deliycry ; and therefore themidwives can have no concern in occafion-
^ ing it, un]cf» they fwerTe fo far from their profeffional duty, as arbitrarily to
*' didate fome improper mode of managing the child, for the firfk feven days
^ after birth.*' According to the opinion of another eminent phyiScian in
town, (Dr. W. W.) it is " that fietie* of the lacked ja-w, mentitned iy /everal

** auth$rs as the trifmus infantum, wbieb ii wry fatal to utvf born cbUdren in tbe

•• Wejilniissr

* They are known, among the jewellers, by the name of Arran famsg Catrn^

gptmst AD<1 Seotcb topaxet\ and are often fet in gold for rings, and other ornaments.

The colour is generally a dark brown ; but fome are found of a beautiful yel-
low, which are reckdned "^^cry valuable.

f About 70 years ago, colliers were employed to make trial for coaW

Owing to fome treachery, the fcarch proved unfucccfjful, and 00 fetftbcr trial

kik ever fince been made.

of Kilhridi in ArfM. 0i

its Lamblafli, would be of ineftimable value to the Dake of
Hamilton, the proprietor, and would tend greatlj to the inw
provement of the whole ifland.

Harbours and Lighthoufe. — ^There are only 2 harbours ia
the lilandy viz. Lamblajb and Locbran%a. Lamblafh Baj is
a fenricircle. Holy IJle^ in the mouth of it, forms the har-
bour, having an inlet or opening at both points. A light-
houfe is lately ere&ed on the ifle of Pladda^ which direda
fhips into the port of Lamblafh at night. The fouth end of
Arran is rocky ; and many fliipwrecks happened there before
the light-houfe was ereded. Lochranza, at the north end of
Arran, affords a fafe harbour for fmall boats, in the time of
the herring fiiking. An old caftle, fituated at th^ bottom of
the bay, ferves to direft the boats into \he harbour.

Population. — The number of fouls, at prefent (1793) in
the parifh, is------- 2545

The return to Dr. Webfter, in 1755, was - - 1369

Increafe, • - 1x76

This increafe would have been conilderabTy greater, had not
the population diminilhed of late ; as upwards of 300 failors
go annually to the royal navy, the bounty fiihing, or on board
merchant fhips, many of whom never return.

Ecclefiaftical State and Poor. — ^The Duke of Hamilton is
patron. There are 2 minifters in the ifland, each of whom
has a yearly flipcnd of 70I., with a glebe and a manfe. An
affiflant to both is fettled at Lochranza, and has the charge of
the northern diflrid, with an annual falary of 500 merks Scotch.
-i^There are only xa on the poor's roll. Quarterly oolleAions

are

gt± Stdlifticai Account

ire made for their fapport, and diftributed according te tlicif
•ge and aeoeffidcs. There is aUb 40L lent o«t ac intereft^
allotted for their relief in cafes of ficarcitj, or other extra-
ordinary emergencies : And certain penfioners of the Duke
of Hamilton's are regularlj fopplied with meal hy his faftor^

Pr^ftiitor mnJ Rtnt^^^Tbe Dnke of Hamilton is proprietor
of the whdt iiaod, except 5 finall farms. The yearlj rent
of Arran is 3»50oL

CharmSer. — ^The whole ishabitantf belong to Che EOaUiih-r
cd Chorchy and are a fober well difpofed peopk. Thej at-
tend diTiiie fervioe with great regnlaritj; are well acquainted
with the Scriptares ; fliew a good example to their ehiMrea,
and inftrud them in the pcioeiples of ChriiUanity,

NUMBER

^ Moonzic. ^9^

NUMBER XXXVIIL
PARISH OF MOON Z IE,

(Jpounty and Synod of Fifi Prtjb^tery of Cupar,)

By the Rev. Mr. Andrew Ireland, Minifter^

Name and Extent.

THE origin of the name is uoknowo. It is probaUj itn
rived from the GaeUc« the language ivhich fonnerlj
prevailed all over the peniofula of Fife. There is a pariih,
with almoil the fame name (^Monzie^^ in the prefbjtety of
Auchterarder, where the names of places are alfo of Celtic
cxtraftion.— -Moonziei in point of extent and population, is
I perhaps the fmallefl parochial diflriA in Scotland, and fur-

I niflies very Sender materials indeed, for ftatiflical obfervation

and inquiry. It is only x Scotch mile in length, and about
1 1 in breadth. The number of acres is between f,oco and

1,100.

Surface^ Soily Produce^ Cattle^ t#r.— A great part of the pa-
rifli is hilly, and the reft is flat and low.* The foil is very thin,
but fertile. In a wet fummer, it produces very good crops, both
of com and grafs \ but, in a dry feafon, all the hilly ground
is quite parched. — ^There are 17 ploughs in the parilh.
I The farmers, now, only put 2 horfes to the plough, and I

I man both holds and drives. This is a very great faving. There

^re about 34 or 36 horfes in the parifb i and a very few iheep,

which

584 Statiftical Accwnt

which one of the farmers keeps for his own private ufbt
TheM afe alfo feme black cattle bred for f«le.

Farms^ Proprietors and RenU — ^Therc are only 4 farms in
the parifli, viz. Moonzie^ Lords^Cairnie^ ITorrf and CoU^tbie^
The three former belong to the Earl of Crawfurd, and the
latter to Mrs. Bell of Hilton. The rent will amount to fomje-
thing more than loool. Sterling per annum.

Po^iv/a//o0.«^The population has decreafed greatly withia
thefe 40 yearsy conlldering the number of inhabitants.
The return to Dr. Webfter, in the year 1755, was - 249
The number of fouls at prefent (March I793)» is only 171

Decreafe, - 78
Under xo years of age, • 30 From 50 to 70, - 35
From 10 to 20, * 3 a Annual average of births 3
From 10 to 50, - 74 Do. deaths, rather lelii than 3

Cburcbf School and Poor. — ^The value of the living, includ-
ing the glebe, is about 90!. Sterling. Lord Crawfurd is pa-
tron. The manfe got fome repairs laft fummer, and the kirk
and ofEces will need them foon.^-The fphoolmafter's falary is^
5L I OS. per annum. The fchool dues are very fmall.-— There
are only 3 or 4 perfons in the parifii )¥ho fct charity ; but
they do not need much. The fund is very fmall.

CbaraOefj %Sc. — The people are very decent and regular in
their attendance upon divine worfbip. They are alfo very
diligent and induftrious in procuring fubfifience for their fa-
milies.— ^This pariih labours under no particular difadvantage,
it is a great way off from coal \ but there is now a fine turn*
pike road the moft of the way. It has one great advantage,
that it is within 2 ftiort miles of the town Cupar, where the
people get a good price for any thing they have to fell.

NUMBEa

^ Symington. j;B$

NUMBER XXXIX,

PARISH OF SYMINGTON.

(County of Lanark — Prejbytery of Biggar-^Synod o/Zoibiatt
and TweeddaU*")

By tU Re^. Mr. James Finlatsok, Minj/lin

SUttatian, Extent^ Pro/pea, gftt.

SYMINGTON is fituated 30 mUes S. W. from Edinbiirgti^
and 33 miles S. W. from Glafgow. The parifli is 3 miles iti
lengthi and'D^arljr the fame in breadth. The arable land lieft
klong the banks of the Clyde, and the pafture reaches to the
top of 7?/f/d, on which there is a cairn of ftones, faid to be
the remains of a Druidical temple. This moimtain, though
idot the higheft in Scotland, yet being about 2,460 feet above
tlie level of the fea, commands a beautiful and moft eztenfive
profped : With the naked eye, you can fee part of x6 differ*
ent counties. — ^The village is fituated at the foot of a rifing
ground, called the CaftU-httl^ which has formerly been a place
of flrength, and is now plantied with various kinds of treed.

Cultivation and Proivrf.^*— Improvements in agriculture are

carried on with great fpirit. Twenty year9 ago, there was not

Vol. VIII. 4E aa

^85 Siati/Iical Account

an acre of fown grafsin the parifli; now, almoft everj Cenan¥
has part of his farm properly laid down with a crop of rye-grafs
and doven — ^The rule, which they generally obferve, in the
quantity and proportion of grafs feeds to each acre, is, — red
dover, xo lb. ; white ditto, a lb. ^ rib-gra&, a lb.; and rye-grafs,
f boll. — ^Ten years ago, there were no turnips to be feen ; and
now, every one who is not doing more or lefs in that way,
is confidered as void of all fpirit and fkill. It is found by ex-
perience, that thefe green crops, not only meliorate tife
ground, but are of more prefent valfie than the heft crops of
barley or oats*.-r-The occupiers of fmall farms go on, or
ought to go on, fyftematically, in the ferllowing rotation : ift,
potatoes and turnips ; ad, barley fown with grafs feeds ; 3d,
hay ; 4th, pailure ; 5th, oats. This rotation^ or a rotation
of 4 crops, fetting apart the 5th divifion for perpetual pailure,
keeps the ground clean and in good heart. The crofts of
Symington are. divided, with^hedge and ditch, into inclofurea
of 10, 15, and 20 acres, and let from zl. 5s. to iL 13s.
j)er acre. The larger farms, which are not inclofed, let at
about xos. per acre. Of Chefe, only one is rented above lool.

Being

* The faddcn cluuige, m thb place, ii.to ht afcribed, in a great meafore, ta
tlie enmple fet by the late Major TiLPaa, who, qd retiriiig from the army,r
Id order to amofe htmfclf, and advance the happinelf of mankind, took a leafe,
from bit brother, of xoo acres of the moft ufekfs part of the eftate, whol!/
covered with broona, and let for a iheep wa&, at 81. per annnfli. . In the fpace
of (iz yean, thia barren field was made to frodnce czceUeot crops of coni|>
turnips and hay,; and wovld now, with the ilcading of.houfes, let at eight
TIMES TBI voRicaa aiNT. Lime being got at four miles difiance, the expence
was modente. This example had, as might be ezpeded, a noble effed. Some
are ftiU atuched to the old hufbandry. All new fchemes, however wife and be-
aeficial, ia^thia and every Ather department, wiU, for a time, be ftrongly op-
. fofed by pride and prejudice : But higttry inf^'mng^ is. mere eafily eradicated
Ihan hig9try in religioMf as the bad confequenccs of a vrrong fyftcm ate mof9
vifiblii and fooaer felt) in the one cafe thaw in the other.

4 Symington. ^tj

Being at a dtllance from anj great town, potatoes fell coax*
moiiij at 43. thie boll, and therefore are not raifed in great
jquantitieSy and no more than is abfolutely necefTarj fhould be
x^iiedi as they are a (courging crop, as well as lint. One aqre
of turnips will produce more fodd for cattle* than two acres
of potatoes ♦.

Heritors, Churchy School^ \3c. — There are 3 heritors, and
f feuer. The principal heritor refides occafionalljr'. Mr.
Lockhart of Camwatb is patron. — ^The living, (or more pro,^
perly the Jiarv'mg j-\ is 55I. lis. i-Jd. Indeed, much can-
not be expe&^, as the rental does not exceed 700!. ; and
there are 5 parochbl churches, and 2 diOfenting meeting
Jioufes, within 3 miles of the church of Symington {• The
church was repaired in 1761, and the manfe rebuilt in 1790*
.-^The fchoolmafter's falary is 81. 6s. 8d. He has taught for
tbefe 50 years, with fach fidelity and unwearied perlcverance^
^s, in fome lines of life, would have loaded him with richea
and honour«

P©or.— The funds for the provifion of the poor, arc tli«
weekly coUeAions, (which, at an average, amount to 61.
'per annum), and the intereft of lool., gradually raifed by
^ " "* •" ' ^' * 4Ea " ' * the

* The price of labour Ins, of late, incr^afed according to the rapid progre&
of manufadures. A ploughman, who was formerly hired at 5 1., now demands,
imd gets, 81. a year ; and the wages of all labourers, mechanics, 5cc. are raifed,
yearly in the iathe proportion.

f The piefent incumbent is viarried, and has fix fons and one daugnxer.
He was admitted in 1783*

I Kirks have been planted, and pariiket marked out, without rale or judg*
ment ;-for there are imuiy pariihes more numerous,' and mioy mock more«x»
' feofive-than thefe fix ootijoiiiedk This is an oldgricTance, and ought to kt-fCv
^^fffA^ before any new ^bje^b^ reform be taken into cosfi4cntion«

5 8 S Statl/lical Account

the joiDt cootrtbutions of the inhabitants, without the fmalleft
aiSftance from the heritors. Thefe have hitherto fupplied all
demands, and none were ever known to beg« The elders are
fo attentive to the diftreffed, that thej have feldom any occalioQ
to call for affiftancfc; and there is no diftinftion made, whether
they belong to the Eftablilhment or not. Befides fupplying
the ordinary poor, the kirk-feffion are always ready to ac-
copnmodate induftrious perfons, who have met with any un-i
forefeen misfortunes, or who are unable to work, with fmall
fums, to be returned on a change of circumftances. This
praAice is attended with happy confequences, not only to the
perfons thus relieved, but to the public ; and it is found to
be a moft effcAual method pf advs^cing ^e intereil pf virtue
and induftry.

Po/»jb/io«— The population has increafjed wlthi^i the£;
40 years.

Statistical ^able oftle Parish of Stmington.

Kumber of indiTidalt, * - 307 Namber of weaTcrs and their

KeturatoDr. Wcbfter,tD 1755, 264 apprcntlcet, r ft6

^— ■ ■ ihoemakert, - %

Increafe, -43 . dancing mafteri, - f

^qmber of malef, - - 151 ■ coopen,

— ^— females^ - - 155 — mafont,

— — Burgher Secrders, • S ■, blacVqiitbs, - -

-— Relievers, - 18 ■■ wrighu, -

.^— perfons under xo, - 76 __ tailors,

— from |o to ao, - 77 . — hecklers, -

II — — aotojo, - 47 —millers,

— — 30 to 4e, - 37 — fchoohnafters,

— ^— —40 to 50, - a7 I clergymen, - -

■■ -^ 50 to 60, - ae J day Ubottrers, r

» ^^— 6p to 70, - 14 1 work horfes , - 44

'" ■ — 70 to 80, - 8 ■■ young ditto, - 30

V^ ■ ■ T* — 80 to 9Q, - 1 ■ ■ cows, young and old, %SS

_— . iheep, - - 3431

of Symington. ^8p

Number of fwlne, i . 7 Acres fown with tiirnipg, - ^%

■ carts, -^ - 44 Hoafet bailt within the laft 8

— ploughs, - - i4» years, . - y

. harrows, - - 44 rebuilt, - • . 9

Acres planted with timber, • 80 Cattle fed on tarnjps, - * 35

— • fown with grals feeds, - 66 Sheep fed on ditto, - - 100

CbaraBtr. — ^The virtues of Ibbriety and induftry, and a rc«
gular attendance on divine inftitutions, are no where more
ftriaiy obferved. The people live comfortablj, are contented
with their fituation, and well afFedled to the eftabliflied con-
flitutton, in church and ftate*. — An attempt was made, at the
beginning of the Seceflion, t6 fet^e a diflenting congregatioa
;n Sjmington, and many violent harrangues were delivered,
pn the /pots and hlemijhes of the back(liding generation, and
gn the errors and corruptions of the chijrch f .— -The diflenters

are

* The only grievance which they complain of, is the trifling tax on births.
Every country pariih has its philofophers, politicians and divines. Tbefe leaders
of the people make their obfervatioDs on every thing that paffes; and their re-
marks are fometimes ibrewd and fenfible. They apprehend, that, infiead of
faying a duty On the birth of a child, the parents ihould rntt'ot a rrward^ and
have privileges and immunities granted to them, according to the number of
their children. But their chief objcdlion is on the fcore of religion- Con-
neding births with Ij^i/m, it is conildered as a tax 00 that ordinance. View<-
ing it in this light, the idea, of paying for ibe faerament^ is, of all others, the mod
impious and profane. It is fuppofed to imply a contempt o| all the blood that
has been fhcd in the proteftant caufe, and as giving freedom to the Uafl, xvUB tU
fiven heads and ten terns, to trample the memory of the old covenanters under his
feet.

t As a fpcpimen of the fpirit and eloquence of thofc tim«, the follovnttg
part of a prayer, for the eftabliihcd minifter of the place, is kept in remembrance,
as uttered by one of the preachers on the green, after a difeoarfe, in which he
and his brethren were reprefented in the blackeft colours s— >-* Thoa kaoweft
f that the filly fnivelltng body is not worthy even to keep a door in thy hoote.

«< Cat

jgo Statifiical Account

yjre now of a very different fpirit* To their praife be it
fpokcDt they are the fons of peace and order ; and have, by
their decent and moderate condaA, acquired a very high de.
gree of refpe&ability. As an evidence of their niodcratiop,
(lich a% refide here attend divine worihip in the parifli church
occafionallyt without fcruple of confcience or dread of cenfure.
They ihew the utmoft civility to the incumbe6t» and aik him
to vifit their families and fick, which is done with the fame
pare and attention, that is paid to the reft of the flock.

f Extraordinary Cuve of Canine Mainefs. — There is a plow**
pan living in the parifh, named Andrew Sbaniy^ who was
bitten by a D>ad dog in April 1783. The circumftances of
the ca&y and the manner of the cure, being Angular, and well
authenticated, the relating them may lead to feme important
difcovery, in this hitherto unexplored region of medical fci«
Aice *• No fufpicic^n of madnefis was entertained at the time
when the dog bit the man's hand ; accordingly little regard
was paid to it, though it bled coniiderably. The buiiners, in
which he was about to be employed, was driving lime ; ancL
an hour and a half elapfed before he arrived at the liipe
iciln. He fays, that the evening was very cold ^ and th^ un«
flacked hot lime, blown by the wind, fretted the wound fo
much, that he was obliged to wipe it frequently. Next day,
being Sunday, the fame dog bit the other dogs about the
houfe, and feveral cows, belonging to the farmer whom

3.h?aky

*< Cut him down at a cvmberer of the ground; tear him op, root and brapch,
<* and caft the wild rotten fiump out of thy vineyard. Threih him, Lord, and
** dinna fpare ! O threih him tightly, with the flail of thy wrath, and mak* a
'* Jftne wifp 0' him to flap the mouth of hcU !'*

* It itfaid to have been the opinion of the Ute Sir JonN Peingle, that
no cure had yet bccQ foiuid for the bite of a mad dog, and probably never
would.

of Symington. 55!

Shanky was fervlng \ and likewife a maftiff belonging to a
carter, who was paiCng by on the Moudscy. The farmer be-
gan to take fome precautidns* Accordingly^ the dog was
chained down in a feparafte houfe, where I16 reffufed food, and
died in a few days. The other dogs attempted, fome time after,
to bite people. T*he maAiff turned mad, and was ktlledf-*
Shanky fays, that his mind was ik>W- filled, day and night,
with the mod dreadful appreheniions, and he laid his account
jivith the moft horrible kind of des^th. In three weeks, one
caw was feized with the difeafe, and the others foon after^
till 10 of them died. He fays, that the cattle foamed at the
mouth i their fides went like a pair of bellows ^ their dung
became of the confiflency and colour of tar^ and their hind
legs failed, fo that they fell down and diecl. The family, being
interrogated on the fubjed, agree exaftly With Shanky ; and
as he, and John Barclay, in the pariih of Lamingtdn, whom
be was fervirig at the time, are men of undoubted vemcitj^
no matter of faft can be better afeertained ; and there is uo
queftion but the hot lime from the kill operated the cur««

NUMBER

/^^ Statiftical Account

NUMBER XL.

PARISH OF ALLOA.

(jDouniy of Clacimannan — Prejbytery of Stirling^^ynod of
Perth and Siirlmg* .

Draiun up from the Communications of the Rev. Mr. Jame&
Fkame, and of JoHK Francis Erskike, Efq. of AlloA)
Reprefentative of the MaRR Family.

Origin of the Name.

THE namci like moil other places, has been variouft/
fpelt. In the charter granted bj King Robert, in the
9th- year of his reign, (anno 1315), to "thomas de Erjtyne^
it is fpelt j^kvayi and, in fome fubfequent ones, Aulway^
Auleway^ and fometimes Alloway. Camden, in his Britannia^
feems to think it the Alauna of the Romans *• He fajs,

" Ptolemy

* When the Romans crofTed the Forth, it fcenu probable, that it was either
by the ford 'of Manor, a fmall creek, about 6 miles higher up the ^ater than
Alloa, or at the ford of the Froik, which is ooly a mile and a half from it*
There are veftiges of a Roman caufeway, running into the river at Manor ;
and it is only within thefe 13 or 14 years, that the remains of a fmall eafitUum^
for prote&ing the pafTage, have been been totally defaced. In 1774, a fwoid,
or -dagger, of a compofition refembling brafs, was taken up in a falmon net,
between the ford of Frofk and Manor. It had on its point a piece of a human
fcuU. k appeared to be of Roman workmanihip ; and feems to confirm the
opinion, that this part of the river had been frequented by the Romans, as a
paflage from the fouth to the north. This dagger was prejfent^d by Mr.
ALKZAifDEa CoLDSTkEAM, fchoolmafter at Criefif, (into whofe hands it fcU^
^ iitoi (cfaoolaiaftcr at Alloa), to the Society of Anti^uaria09 ia Pcxtb.

of AUoa. 59^

'^' Ttolemy places Alauoa fomewhere about Steiling ; and it
^* was either upon Alon^ a little river, that runs here into the
** Forth) or at Alviay^ a feat of the Erikincs t"

SflfiroftVif.— -Alloa is a port in the county of Clackmannan^
fituated on the north fide of the river Forth, weft long'. 3^ 4 j'^
lat. 56^ I0^ It is about 2 77 miles higher up the frith than
Leith, and 17 lower down the river than Stirling. The wind*
logs ef the Forth, between Stirling and Alloa, ate veiy re«
fiiarkable ; the diftance, from the qiiaj of Alloa,, to the quaj
of Stirling, meafured in the centre of the river, ts 17 miles,
and to the bridge of Stirling it is 194 miles; whereas the
diftance, hj land, from Alloa to the bridge of Stirling, does
not exceed 7 miles, though the turnings in the road are nu-
merous. It is the moft confideraUe port in the river ; for
the upper part of the Frith of Forth begins at Kennet Pans
and Higgins Neuk— There are 3! feet greater depth of wa*
ter, in the harbour of Alloai than on the bar of Leith.

Extentf and &f/.— The parifli is, 00 an average, about
4 miles from £• to W. and about % miles from N. to S.
It confifts of about 3*900 acres. It is bounded on the
fouth bj the Forth ; and thejbeod of the river is fo great,
that the banks meafure about 57 miles. The grounds,
pn the banks of the Forth, are . flat, and of a very

Vol. VIII. 4F rich

4 It might feem whimfical to derive the name of Alloa from the Crefek, and
yet there are feveral circumftances, which might tend to juftify that conjedure*
AA«f« was a rural feaft of the Athenians, which was adopted by the Romans, and
anfwered to oar harv^ hmw» it was alfo nfed to fignify a grove, or fruitfol
plain, well adapted to the celebration of fuch a feaft. If we fuppofe, that th«
Romans made good their pafiage acroft the Forth, about the time of harveft,
we may eafily conjc&are that they (hould conceive the idea of celebrating their
harveft feaft, at a time which they thought propitious to their wiihes, cfpecially
in a fituation peculiarly fitted for that purpofe ; and hence they might very na%
turaljy affix to that place the name of Xkv%^

^04* Statifik^ Ac<ount

rich forfi^ or kerfe <pU. Thofe oa the banks of fSm De.-
von, ar^ a goo4 carfe or daj, though not quite fio fertile. The
grounds rife prettj fiiddenly from the cardesi god are of a light
kind, but fertile. Towards the centre of the pariih, the
grounds are preuj high. Thejr are aioft agreeably divcrfified ;
but die land is much ioCeior in ^aalitj.

Tovm oftd Tower, %ic* — ^Tbe fitoation of the town is i>IeaT
^t. There are ftrata of rock, that run a coofiderable waj
between the kerfe and the high grounds, and break off about
fhe Ferrj, a little abov^ the harbour. On part of this rock
is built the Tower, and the ancient part of the town of
yilloa«F— The Tower is the refideni:e of the reprefentatives
of the family of M4RK, and is now poflc fled by a grandfbti
of the late £arl ; who has repaired the houTe, and made great
improvements on the land. It was built prior to the year
^300. The highf^ turret is 89 feet from the ground, and
the thicknelsof the walls is 11 feet* Notwith^andiog its being
£tuated on a flati there is a moft uncommonly fine rich prof-
ped, from the top of the Tower; and 9 counties can be difbeniT
ed from itt The gardens, which were laid out by the late
Earl, in.the old tafle, of long ayenues, and ^lipt hedges, arp
^nfiderably modernised ; and the )arge lawn is now dreffing
VP ; fb that the many fine trees in it will be fliewn to advan.
tage. There was ofigipaliy a natural wood to the eaftwaid,
fsO, the greateft part of it ftill remains. All kinds of trees,
tthrive remarkably well ; apd there are oaks, beeches, elms,
planes or fycamores^, limes, and a(bes of confiderable circum^
ference. There is an uncommon fine black poplar, that mea^
fures X3t feet round, at the height of 3 or 4 feet from the
ground. The town foriperly almoft furrounded the tower^
as in the rude ages they afforded mutual benefits to each other,
"VVithin thefe 30 years, many old houfes, fit^a^c^ near the tower.

of Ailodi $q^

hal^e l^tti flUrchafed: I17 the famil j. Moft of the ftrcets ate
liarrow and iciegubi*.

Haritmr^ B^et^ and Terry. — At the ead of this walk^
is the hairboAit of AUoa» where, at neap tides, the water rilea
from X a to 15, feet» and at fpring tides from 17 to 3 a. The
^joaj is built of roagh hewn ftofie, in a fubftantial niamier;
and runs wifihior the land^ and forms a/ow, or fiuall creek^
where the rivulet* that runs through the N. £i end of the
twwn, falls ioio the river. There is an aA of parliament, that
It^rs a fmall dutj on the anchorage, fior fupport and improve*
tment of the harbour ) and this laiL jeac, the tmftees of thia
fund have confiderabljr widened the pow.^*aiA little above the;
harbour^ there ia. aa esceUent dry dock, capable of receiving
veSeb of great hurtbeo %, both from die depth of the watei^
ivhieh is Vi feet at f^tfing tides» and the width of the gat;ps^
ivhkh is 34^ free of aU obAruAioM^ Oppo&e to the dock^
there is a greal depth of water, vtith ej»elleot anchorage^
WoA fun room to; imn% the largeft veffid« As the dock haa
no coftoeftiaa witk Ihe harbour^ not is fituated near asj
buildbgSf the crews of the veiTels that are repairing can
.<iO0k on boairdw-^ Above the dly dock there ia a ferry, which
is iasietigiesr billed the Craig IVatd^ and femetimes the Kwg^jf
Ihrjft. trh^re two very complete piess have htea bvik, one
oa, each fide of tba river ; which rendors it aa eafy, fiafe, and

4 F a eommodioua

* The Ute Earl feenu to IttTC been pa^ticohrly tttentife to die heidthiaefi
af the town, aod to have eodATOured to make the ftreett broader, end aa
jtcssigfat at die igfcgahtitj of the Sannci onea woald admit of, fo at to unite
«hem« lie beik one ftvcnc oa » regular plaa. k fvns in a line paralle! to the
gatdent* It it eaMed -^^t Stv^ttt^ and Itadt to the htrbcnr. k it between
74and8e £tei bvoad^ and leRMnateft hi a beantifal gravel waft. Arowiot
lime^tatet, on etcry tidq, afcgda an afjwaabk ihada in teimer, aad t sosBfert «
•blc Ih^lUf i» wittUi^

59^ Staiiftical Account

•commodious paflage, at nU times of the tide. The bread& of
the water here, at high tide, is above half a rnile^*

Glaft^Houfsj Tile and Tin-woriS.— To the weft of the ferry
ftands a glafs-houfe, for making bottles,- which is diought CD
be the moft eoavenieotly iituated of any in Britain. It caa
have whatever quantity of coals it requires^ at a very eafy
rate, as they are conveyed from the pits, to the very door of
the glafs-houfe, by a waggon way. There is a pier adjoining
to the houfe, by which all materials wanted ure loaded and
unloaded. It is faid, that there are prepoials niaking for
building another houfe. The extent, te which the manofiEi&ory
of glalJB has been carried^ is amazing* It is not half a century,
fince one glafa hoofe at Leith, and one at Glafgow,.fupplied
all Scotland, while the Company wrought the one half year
at the one place, and die next at the other.^ Similar obfervaN
tions might be made on other manuiiEifiures,r «id lead to very
enlarged fpeculatkms. — A little to the N. W. of the glafs-*
houfe, there is a tile and brick work, upon a pretty large fcale^
and well employed. Above that,- there is a good tan-work.

Fijbing^ yiandsy Water Fowh, \ic ^Before we leave the

river, upon whofe banks all thefe different work3 arie fituated^
we muft take notice of the filbing. It is certain, that, for
many years, numbers of people took to the flfhing of £dmon^
during the fummer months, but in a bad ftile, with what is .
called pock nets. They were not very fuccefsful, as^ might

have

* If the fchcme of making turnpikt roads, •& both fides, takes place, this vifl
be one of the ihortefi, and moft agreeable commamcatioDs, opened between tha
north and the fouth, with fcarcely any iotemiptioD from wind or tide. Mft
£r8kink has lately begun to feu out ground for a Mtw town, between John
Street and the Ferry, on a beautiful field, and regular plan. It promiles to be
an airy healthy place, and excellently calculated for thofe Vil» are cair^g oa*
bttimcfs at the harbour.

^ Alloa. /9/

Rave 6een forefcen ; howfever, they continued, though witii
finall advantage, till a law-fuit was carried on againft then»
by the town of Stirling ; and the mode of pock nets being
Condemned, on an old aft of parliament, diey were reftrained
within certain limits, from fiihing in that manner ; and the
fifhing, fince that time, has been moftly abandoned $.— After
palSng the ferry of Craig Ward, the river becomes narrower;
and there are fome beautiful iilands, which are called Inches.
Thefe fumifli excellent pailure for cattle luting the fummer^
and are efteemed medicinal for fuch as are weakly or fick»
They are a gentle kind of fait marfli, as they are entirely-
covered with water in fpring tides* Thefe Inches are fre«
quented by great quantities of water fowl, viz. wild ducks,,
teals, widgebns, gullsy gcc. Sbc. Here they find flielter, and a
variety of food fuited to their nature. Sometimes fcarts, or
cormorants, goofeanders, &c. appear here. The ftormy pet«
terels, or what the failors call Mother Cary^s chickens^ were feeil
About the Perry laft winter ; and one of them was killed by
Mr. Erikine, junior. It was thought fingular to fee thefe
birds, who feldom appear near the land, fo far up the country.
Upon the point of thefe inches, they ereft what are called
yaresy a fort of fcaffbld projefting into the water ; upon whicli
they build little huts to protect them from the weather ; from
fbefe fcaffolds they let down, at certain times of the tide, their
Dets, and are ohen very fuccefsfnl in taking the fmaller fiffa,
fuch as herrings, garvies^ or fprats, fparHngs^ or fnlelts, fmall
whitings, haddocks^ fea trouts, and eels. la this manner fal-

moa

{ Had thi9 reftniilt operated at it ought to- have done^and obliged them fi»
have exchanged their method, and emplofed the long nets, the beft effect
would probably have followed. The excufe generally given for not trying it^
if the depth of water, and fonlnefs of the bottom. The laft, it is thought
might be partly remedied ; and the fuccefs which attends this method, a little
farther weft, and in the fittne parifli, gives great encouragement to make the
tspcriment.

598 Stati/lical Account

mon are fometiaies caught; as well as Congo ceb, ftuf^eofit^
foals, tarbots, cod, gurnet, or piper, and ikate.*— Sometimes^
about tbe end of September, there comes a vail flioal of iiih^
called gandanoois^ or Egyptian btrriugs. Thej have a faint
refemblance of the mackarel, but with a long (harp bill, like
a fnipe. This becomes fatal to them on our muddy banks, aa
the bill is fixed in the mud \ and in this waj thejr are entangled^
and caught in great quantities, on the ebbing of the tide.
They are not an unpleafant filh, but rather dry ; they artf
however a great relief to many poor people. Porpoifes now
and then appear here, and fometimes (knall whales have beent
feea and taken f •

Tullibody, — In proceeding up the river, we come to tho
barony of Tullibody. The houfe is iet down in the CarCe,
almoft clo{e to the water fide. Behind it, on the sorth^
there is a beautiful bank, well fumifhed with a varietyr
pf fine trees \ and on each hand of this bank, almoft at
equal diilances from tbe houfe, there are two prominences^
jutting out into the Carfe, which ^eem to protefi and iheltei
the lower grounds. The one on tbe eaft is covered with treesy
and the one on the weft with fome farm houfes.

Rivers f, Fijb^ Uc — In the front of tbe houfe is the thtt^
with two of the Inches formerly mentioned. From this, up'

* fn SrptcmBer 1777, a ikate, of tKe ipcciet of the diarp aofod iiy, was
«iiDght here, which was of a yery large fize. The length, from the tip of the
nofe to the end of the tail, waa 7 feet 3 inches ; the breadth, from the cztrenaity
•I one fio to that of the other, 5 feet 3 inches ; and it weighed 13^ fionet
Dutch weight, which is about sf cwt. avoiiadapotfr.

f About % years ago, an amgler, or Ji/hing/rttg^ was thrown afliore tt thd
Ferry. It ii a filh of a tery uncommon appearance, refembling a frog in itv
tadpole ftate. They fometimes grow to a large fize, and are thought to be a
great euemy to the dog fifii.

to the Camhii, they continue to fiik -with ColefaUe fuccelt*
General Abercrooiby now let& the fiibing for 40I. per annum,
which formerly 0&I7 gave 5L Upon the weft, and not a mfle
from the houfe of Tullibody, the river Devon difcharges it«
felf into the Forth ; and velTels of tolerable burden can load
and unload, at a pier, built at the mouth of the Devon. Sloopt
and large boats, loaded with grain, come up near to the village
of Cambus, to fupply the mills, «od a brewery, and to carry
off the maiififaft«rc8 of both. A high dam-head, ereded for
driving the corn and barley mills on each fide of the river^
forms a great obftrufiion to the falmon getting up the Devon,
They are feen often attempting this, but, they feldom fucceed,
except in high tides. An oil mill has lately beea erefttd isn
this river, which is faid to perform a great deal of work. Oa
the other fide of die Devon, there is a rich flat piece of ground,
called W^ CambuSf belonging to Lord Alva. It oonfids o£
160 acres of ground, which is let in two iarmst one of which
has the corn mill. The tenants pay kain, cefs and fchool*
mafter's falary, over and above their rent. The lands of Ban-
death, Kerfie, and part of the Frolk, which all lie on the other
fide of the Forth, are bound and thirled to the mill of Wed
Clambtts^. — Weft Cambus is bounded by the parifli of I^gie,

botb

* Some years ago, berifeen the Cftmboi and the Ttofk ford, there was drag*^
fed op a brals coUar, with this ioicripciofi on it : " ALtZAMota SravAar,
«* ftMMd gmliy ff dtatb fir thefts gt FtrA^ Sth Dtcmttr X701, amd gifitd ty *U
^* yitJUtssr*, as m^trptUiMl fifvant f Sir Jo&M AaBSKXM ^ Alva." This coUar
is DOW in the poflelSoD of the Anti^arian Society of Scotland, with the follow*
ing eop7 of the jofticiar's gifp, which istaken from the original in the Duko
pi Athoirs charter honie :

" At Perth, the 5th d|iy of Dfcember 1701. The comftiiffioners of JdU-
** dary of the fouth diftrid, for facuring the peace in the Highlands, confidering
f* that Donald Robertfon, Alexander Stewart, John .Robertfon, and Donald
** M'Donald, prifoncrs within th^ tolbooth, and indided and tried at this Court.

« and,

iSoo Statiftkal AecoutA

tK>th oa the north and weft. The lands of Eaft Ganibai r«i|
^loDg the banks of the Devon, y ntil they meet with the nppev
|»aronj of Tollibodjf* The Upper and Lower baronies of

TuUibodj.

,«* and, by Tirtue of the inqaeft, retarned guilty of dcf th ; and the commiflioiw
^ ers have chaaged their pumlhment of death to perpetual fenntude, and that
•■ thefaid pannelt are at the court's difpoial : Therefore, thefaid commUIioneri

* haTe given and gifted, and hereby give and gift the (aid Donald McDonald,
^ one of the laid priTonen, at a perpetual fervant to the Right Honourable
« John Earl of Tullibardine ; recommending 'to hit Lordihip to caufe provide
.«• an collar of braft, iron, or copper, which, by his fentence or doom, whereof
c* an extraft is delivered to the magiftrates of the Cud burgh of Perth, is to be
« upon bis neck, with this infcription, * Donald M*DonaId, found guilty of
•* death for theft, ac Perth, December 5. 17M, and gifted, as a perpetual fervant,
** to John Earl of Tullibardine :' And recommending alfo to his JLonUhip, to
^ tranfport him from the faid prifoo once the neict week. And the iaid com^
«* mifiioners have ordained, and hereby ordain the magiftrates of Perth, an4
•^ keeper of their tolbooth, to deliver the faid Donald McDonald to the faid
V Earl of Tullibardine, having the faid collar and infcription, conform to the

* fentence and doom afordaid. Extraded from the books of adjournal of the
^* faid diftrid by me James Taylor, writer to his Majefty*s Cgnet, clerk of coiut
4* SufubferilaiMr J^mu TayUr, CU^

Since this account was wrote, it has been found to be a miibke, that this
oollar was taken up near the Cambus; for it was dragged by a pet out of the
Forth, oppoGte to CbamUrlMn* Lands^ in the parUh of Logie, whereof Sir Joha
Arikin is fuperior. But as the hiftory of this collar was probably unknown
to Mr.WaioHT, when he wrote the account of the pariih of Logik, it is infert^
ed here as a curious fad, well worthy of being generally known.

t Here there are fbme fine crofts, which are fuppofed to Jiave given the name
•f Tif/fiMy, or TMUiMfj (L e. the trcft ^ftbe •atbjy to the barony and village,
which iUnds at the head of it. Many new houfes have been built of late.
There are the remains of an old church in Tullibody ; the lands of which, with
the inches and fiihiogs, are narrated in a charter by David T., who founded the
abbey of Cambuikenneth, in the year I147 ; uid are made over to that abbacy,
together with the church of Tullibody, and its chapel of Alloa. There are no
records of the union of thefe twc churches of Alloa and Tullibody. It feema
|>robable, that it was about the beginning of the Reformation. It appears from
Jo HN Knox, that, m the year 1559, ^^^^ Mon/it^ itO^el commsndcd the Fjench

troops

-^ Atlocu $01

TuIlibodTf » or ivhat are called the Carfe and Dryfieid, coo-

•tain about i,ioo acres. The tenants pay kahu and ceb, and

are obliged to cacry their farm barlej^ miles, if xequired ;

V0L.VIIL 4G but

vtroops on the caaft^f Fife, thqr were«.ailarmed with the arrival of the Englilh
fleet, and thonght of nothing but a haftjr retreat. It was in the month of
January, and at the breaking up of a great ftorm. William Kirkcaldy of
Orange, ittentive to the circvmftancet in which the French were caaght, took
advantage of this toadon, and aguurched with great expedition towards Surling,
«ad cut the bridge of Tidlibody, which » over the Devon, to prevent their re-
treat. The French, finding no other means of efcape, took the roof off the
,church, and laid it along the bridge where it was cnt^ and got fafe to Stirling.
4t i» generally believed, that this church remained in the fame difmaotled flate
till fome years ago, that George Abercromby, Eiq. of Tallibody, covered it
widi a new roof, and creAcd within it a tomb for lus*{iamily. There is fifll«
large burying gnmnd roand this church ; and on the TunftXk fide of it, wher9
.there had been formerly an entry, there is a ftone coQn, witii a niche fur the
head, and two for the anas, covered with ^. thick hollowed lid, like a tureen.
{The lid is a good deal broken ; but a curious tradition is preferved of the coffin,
'vii. ** That a certain young lady of the netghbourhood had declared her af*
** fedioa for the mii^ifter, who, oiiherirom his ftation, or want of inclination,
^ made no returns ; that the lady -fickcned and died ; but .gave orders not 10
** bury her in the .ground, but to put her body in the (lone coffin, and place it
^ at the entry to the d.urch.** Thus was the poor vicar f uniihed ; and the
ficne retains the name of the Maiden Stent,

t O" ^^^ "^ c**^ of^hc village and crofts, diepe was ^ large rogged piece of
ground, upwards of 140 acres, formerly let at 40L Scotch, or 3I. ^s. 8d. Ster«

'iing. Between 60 and 70 years ago> it was indofed, and planted with firs.
When they ware between 40 and jo years of 9gq, they were cut, and ibid at
from 50I. to 60I- per acre; and the ground is now planted with oaks, which ars
in a very thriving condition.^— Immediately on the eaft of this wood, there

4s a rifing ground, in the upper barony -of A Ilea, called Lsm*s HiU, probably

'from its being the fpot where the Marquis of Lorn encamped, when in purfoit
of the Marquis of MontroTe in the civil wars, Mr. Eiikine, about 14 years
ago, built a farm houfe and good offices on it. It was formerly a dreary and
uncultivated wafte, though the grounds were beautifully varied. Mr.^^dkine
has humoured the lying nf the ground, in forming his indofores and clumps, and

*:bclts or ftrips of planting ; fo that it is at prefent a.pleafjuit fpot, and will, in ft

^w. years, becom? a very agreeable /»r»M tnur.

6o3 Statifiical Account

but this feldom or never happens. Thej are fubjeft alfo ta %
darg (or day's work), for every aere, or lod. per annum. AU
mukures are aboliflied.

Shaw Pari. — On the N. E. extremity of the pariih,
flands Shaw Park, the feat of Lord Gatrcart. The houfe
and offices take up a pretty large fpace. The grounds about
it are delightfully varied, ai^d Cpt off the large plantations to
great advantage. The late Lord beftowed a very large fum
pf money, on it and the houfe ; which flands high, as the
ground rxfps (o It gradually from the Forth, which is about
a miles diftant* It commands an exteniive profped. From
the drawing room windows, you have in view ^, fine reach of
the river, with the towers of Alloa and Clackmannan, and
the caftle of Stirling; and even the hills of Tinto, in Glyde£3ale,
and Ben Lomopd, are diAinSly feen,

jlrtificial Lah^ Mills^ i^c-^Vpon the eaftem extremity of
the parifh, there is a large artificial piece of water, that looks
like a lake. It was made about the beginning of the century,
at a very confiderable expence, for the ufe of the Alloa coal
works. It is called Cartmox-n Qam. The head, which wa^
heightened and repaired a few years ago, is faced wi^h rough
hewn flon^, and meafur^s upwards of 320 yards. When th^
dam is full, it covers 128 Scotch acres of ground, nearly
equal to 16% Englifh flatute acres. There is a fluice, which
regulates the quantity of water to be cpnveyed into a lade,
which firft drives a mill, originally erefted for grinding Ihuff^
but now better employed in chipping and grinding wood and
dye fluffs. A lint mill has, within thefe few years, bren built,
juft before the water is conveyed into pipes for forcing it up
to the engine, for raifing the water out of the coal pits, and to
^nptber for drawing up the ^oals. Haying performed thefe

iqapoytant

bf Atkd. 603

ihi^otiant purpbTes, for which the large refervoir wad origin-
silly made, the fame water is sigain coUedted into a fmaller
dam, and from chenee cunvejed in a lade, to a fine fet of mills
in the town of Alloa, for grinding wheat, oats, and malt, and
making piearl barley. There are two lafge wheels, of 19 feec
diametdr, in the centre of the hoafe^ which drive the whole
xtxachinery in both ends of the mills. Though all the mills «re
feldom employed at the fame time, they ean be wrought/ on a
great eitertiom, and are capable of grinding 460 bolls, about
e^al to 253 quarters^ in a day*. — ^From thefe mills the wa-a
ler falls into a rivulet^ that runs through the town, and drives a
fnuff and fulling mill ; it then paffirs through Mr. Erlkine^s plea«
lure grounds, till it comes near the harbour; where it is againi
confined by a ftrong dam of earthy and a large fluice is builfi
in it, of hewn flone, with a long trough of fione, which gives
the water a prodigious velocity, for clearing the harbour o^
the mud : fo that this little water, originally a fma(ll branch
of the Black Devon, (fed only by a few fptings, and the fur-j
face water), is made to ferve the moil important purpofes, by
driving 7 mills,- withtn this pafifli, befides cleauing the har-
bour.

-^^irff/iftfy"^.— i.A6dut id years a^6, the lirufbandry of this

pariQi was uncommonly bad, particularly in the barony of

Alloa f. On the expiration of the tach (leafes)^ a great

4 G A change

• thcfc mini have been eiieded wit&in thcic xo years; Tlie boiJdin^ ia 931
feet long, over wallt, 31 fett broad, and yi, high. The machinery alone coft
' 500I. and is noconimonly weU easecuted. From the time the foundation ftoner
v^as laid, it was not (]nite \% months before the milb btgan to work ; and, not-
^ithftanding the great ftrefs upon inch new walls, they were fo well built, that
there is not the finalleft crack to be obferved.

f The farms were (mall, and the xoaSttMitfeadings (the olci pHrafe for a farm
koiife and* offices), denoted the poverty of the tenaJKi, who relied foieiy on th^

(Jg4' Stmifiical AccoanP

change took pkce. The fixes of the farms were eolarged*;: tiie*
tenants were no longer obliged to drive coals ; all fervices ztA
thir1fle;es were abolidied ; inelofing went briikly on» aod the.
Ibnces are now remarkable, both for llrength and beauty* A
wall of %i feet high, buift witJi (lone and limci i» placed with-
in, a foot of the thorns, according to Sir George Swttie'*i me*
thod, thus mixing the fecurity of the fence with the beauty
and warmth of the hedge*. There are manj clumps and drips
of planting interfperfed through the farmSf fo that^. in a few
^ars, what was a moft uncomfortable dreary waRe, will be-
eome one of the bt;{l oultivated, and moft beautiful fpots ia
i^outinnd. Tl'ie improveaseDi of agiiculture has,, indeed, hsea
moft uucommonl/ rapid in this little corner, perhaps more fo
th^n- in akaod any other*. Tiiere are Gx-threfliing machinea-
^ itt

driving of the coali for tKepaymcBt of their pittance of rent {and contented*
thenifclYet with fcratching a fmall part of their grpuads, the produce of whicb
wa» fcarcdy fuffiHent to OMontatn themfelves and their cattle. There were no
indofures, and the ground wat oTcr-run with vuMw (furze), broom, and aU kind»
of weeds, which hot tooplaulf marked the poverty, flodi and ignorance of thtr
pofleflbrs.

* Jflft as the fpirit of improvement 'was hogioning to fliew itfelf): an intelli-
gent Eaft LothiaxT farmer took a farm in this pariib, (caofifting of upvrards of
200 Scotch acres, or 254 Engliih fiatute acies}, who vras remarkahle for hia
good plowing, draining,, and dreffing of his grounds. His cAmple quickened
the diligence of his- neighbours. A few years after he was fettled here, he pro-
pofed to his landlord and brother farmers, to have trials of fltill among the*
ploughmen ; which fchcme was eagerly adopted^ and MLowuio matcbu were
firft cftablilhed in 1 7 84. Laft fpring, (l79i)» ¥> ploughs appeared, in an ob-
long field of I a Scotch, or 15 EngllA acrcs^ all with two horfcs, and no drivers..
I'he improved chain plough, on SmalPs conflrudion, was thejooly one ufed; and
it was computed that i,6ool. never placed the horfes and ploughs on the field.
The fituation, being (hort ridges on a gentle declivity, fet off tlie (hew to the
grcateft advantage ; fo that, to any one fond of hufbindry, the fight was moft
uncommonly delightful and pleafing. In Ihoit, the good effeAs of this ioftitu-
tix>n ha^ furpaficd tlie warmeft expedations of its promoters. From this pe-

in t!ii^ parifli. The kft ereded was by a fanner, who has.
only 60 Scotch, or 76 Englifh acres of ground ; aod as iai«»
proyements are daily making in them, and the price is reda^
eed, it is probable that, in a very fluort time, they will be held
to be as indifpenfiUy neceflary to a farm as the fanners *.

There is no particular rotation or coarfe of crops univerfal^
ly followed here. The turnip^ huibandry cannot be welt
adopted, as the low grounds are carfe, or rich clay, and motk
of the higher grounds have a fubfoil,. of a cold ftiff ' till (or
barreaclay) ; fo that the damage done, by poaching the ground,,
in taking o£F the crop, overbalanoes any advantage, that coulct
poffibly accrue from the cultivation< of tUat ufeful root,; fi>
beneficial to ftMrmers, in a more favourable foil f. — The fol-
lowing rotation is pra^fed by fome of the farmers, on earfe
lands : The ift year, falbw; the ad, wheat; the 3d, beans ^.
the 4th, barley and grafs feeds; the jib, hay;, the fecond
^rop cut for foiling horfes and cattle in the houfe; then broke
up in the 6th year for oats.. Sometimes a crop of hay is taket^
in the 6tb, foiling,, &c. and then it is broke up in the ph yeatf

for

ricud itisy ^ dated the ezcctlest phywing that app«in in thU finall covntf; and*
u many places, in diflant parts of the country, have followed the example, it
is to be hoped, that they have reaped equal benefit from it. The name, there»
fbre, of Hugh Reocb, ef tbt Hiltovum of AUta^ defervcs to be gratefully remem-'
bered by every lover of agriciiltnre.

* The threlhiog machloes^ or mills, were firft* introduced into common uf»
in this fmaU county, Mr. OaoaoE Mukle having ereded one that went by
water, at Hilbagie, in the. neighbouring parilh of Clackmannan, in X 78 7. It
was Mr. Mcikle, who ereded the machinery of the mills of* Alloa.

f Thofe who attempted turnips have been obliged to give them up, as^ well'
as the fowin^ of wheat on a clover lay y for whether it got I, 0^ or 3 plowings,.
a. light brown grub worm deftroycd the root of the wheat. This misfortune
might poffibly be overcome, if a large quantity of hot Um« were laid on the do-'
ver jufl before it is plowed up. This, however, is only r0(v;«Ariv, atnofufw
itient trial has yet beci» made o£ it.

€o6

Staiffiical Account

for oats. Some farmers fow clover alone; others mixti littfd
xjre-grafs with it*

In the higher grounds, or, as they are fomctimes improperljr
called, Drjrfield^ fome farmers haTC, the ift jear fallow,. or
potatoes ; the 2d, wheat ; the 3d, beans and peafe ) the 4thy
barley and grafs feeds ^ the jth haj, the fecond crop being cut
for foiling, or fometimes paftured. Some take, in the 6th jear^
hay, and then k is paftnred for i, 2, 3 or 4 years, and afterwards
broke up for oats.^- When the ground is defigned to be paftur^
cd, white clover, (and fometimes a little yellow), with a fmall
quantity of narrow-leaved plantain, or rib grafs is mixed with
the red clover and rye grais. The produce varies confider-*
ably.

pjtoDucB on Carsz Lanhsl

JPirScoUhairt*, WBIAT- Ptr tug. dir*.
14, great crop, tfiMlU $ 5

XOb good crop, =

Q, medium, r2

«4. =

BARLET.

ZO, good crop, equal l#

9, =

St medium, r:

6 %

s s

S o

4 5i

FtrStoUhMre. OATSi Per Itig. ter^,

Btlie. ^r. Bujk^
X4, great crop, «fir4i/ #0 ■ 8 6

I3»- — — ■* »• =3 8 t

10, good cKjpy = 6 a

9, ihcdiuita, :± -5 ^.

Ht = 5 »

BEANS.

10, good crop, eqmalto 4 ^.

9. -— = 3 7i

5, medium, = % \^

SofVN Grass Hat^.

Stents^ Trem f^e'tgU,
310, great crop,
a40f medium.

Avmrdupolfe PTeight,
ffMoJ to a tons, 8 cwt.
= ^ — »7 —

Produce

« The loiir of -zvheatj per ScoTOtt acre, mre LlNClTBGOtV^ meafure ; and tlrfe cf
ikrley, oaU, teane^ l^e» Stirling SHIES mea/ure, 7be prvfortim^ aUve faied^ of
■the produce per Engush arrr, u Standard meafurt,

I l^Urt ix Utile or edwi^ no hay made ft om- old grals, «r, what it mlUi in Se^fUndy
aatural grid.

of JiUoa. 607

PMBirCR on the INFZRIOR SOILS^ commonly calbi DrTFIELD^

Per Scotch aer; whxat. Per Eng, acre.

BMs,

8^ mediomcrop/ r;

3 li

6i,

9AftLKr*

Per SeoUb acre, rZASS. Per Emg,aen,
Bafts. ^n Bm/b.

5, medium crop, r: ;» z}

Statute iron veigBt, Avurd, toeigBt»

soo medium crop =: 1 too 'i% cwt.

4 3

Itie ^ANTxrr of Seed.

per Saich aere, WHEAT* Per Eng, eter*.

pirUts^ Pecks. Bufi, Pecks.

4 o ohMte^tialt* 3 X

3 O = » oi

3 O neariy equal to 3 a J

* 3 = • 3 It

Per Scotd acre. OAT 9. P«r E/ig, Ircrc

4 O ntarly equal t9 4 3

3 » = 4 li

Extent of Farms tormerix.

Sfttch acres, Eng.acrtSm

From 30 or 40, gfual t9 38 or 51

To 60 or 70, = 76 or 89

FOKMEA 9BMT of CAEftE LANDS.

From 20s. to 249. eqtudt* from Ijs. 8|d. to zSs. xo|d«

rORMCR RKNT of INrXRlOR LAND, or DETFIBLD.

Trom 38. to 48. or 58. efualto from as. 4^ to 38. ifd. or 38. XX {d«

Extent of Farms at present.

Scotch acres, Eng. aerts.

From 60 to 90, t^al to from 76 to 1x4

- xao to 160, =: — — X5» to 203

■I »oo to 360, = — %S4 to 457

PKBSXNT RBNT of CAR8E LANDS.

From 30s. to 408. o§aal to from %$u yd, to 3x1^ 6d,

VEZSKNT RENT of INFERIOR LAND, OT DRTFIELD.

From Z08. tp %iu equal to f^om 73. xo{d to z6s. 6{d.

Formerly

£io Statifiical Account

fervants, as being more fteadj, orderly and tradable. T^c
farmer provides him a houfe as near to his own as pcffible.
It is much to be wiflied that this ca&om was more uaiverfalp
as It is a mod beneficial one to the country. It is, in faft,
haying cottagers on the very beft ellablifhment ; for the an-
cient kind of cottars Were bat too often miferably opprefled
by the tenants, on whofe farms they were eftabli(hed; as
they often etafted their fervices more rigoroufly, than the
landlords did £rom the tenants. But as the ploughmen^ iti
ttiis diftrid, receiye their flated fee (of wages), kitchen mo-
ney and mealf and pay only xos. or lis. for their cottages,
(though indeed they generally have them gratii)^ befides
their mailers* horfes drawing home their coals for thern, no
oppreflion can well take place. They have alfo the advantage
of having their wives, and fuch of (heir children as can work
in the fields, always at hand, who receive the common wages
during hay-making and haryeft \ and are likewife often em-
ployed in picking ftones off the land, and pulling or cutting
down weeds. All this is of confiderable benefit, both to ma.
fters and fervants, and tends to rear up an ufiful, healthy ge«
neration of labourers.

Sale of Grami — ^There is not the fmalleft ttfemblaoce of a
public market for grain, within the parifh or county ; but the
formers find no difficulty in difpofing of their crops by private
baigain. The mod fubftantial iell their grain, by the higheft
price of the Mid Lothian, or the Haddington fian i that is,
they give two or three months credit to the purchafet, at the
price which is the average of the year. Smaller tenaats fell
their grain, for the current price at the time of their delivero
iogit.

May.

of AHoa^ 6i I

J7a^.«.The collieries io^ihc neighbourhood ufe a confider-i
able quantity of haj* : Their ufual price is 4d. per ftone ; and
the haj is weighed, at th^ place where it is flacked to be ufed.
Some of the farmers have found out their miftakci^ in deferring
the cutting of their hay till late in the feafon« thinl^ing, bj
fo doin^, to increafe the quantity. It does fo indeed to the
eye ; but in reality it is quite the reverfe : For hay, cut at
the proper time, retains aU the feed in it, and therefore it
freighs confiderably heavier, and has more nourifbment in \x\
and the fecond crop of grafji is earlier, and more plentiful,
Befides, it does Icfs damage to the ground ; fo that the greedy
farmer cheats himfelf in every refped. Few^ or almoft no
farmers, confume any quantity of hay themfelves \ but this
will probably come in courfe, as their knowledge improves ;
for though much has been done, and that rapidly too, there
are yet many arcanuj, ^l ^is plea^t ^, (ha( tbe farmers,
have ftiU to lea^q.

Sbeep^ Catilt and Manure. — ^There are few or no ibeep kept}
in the parifli i nor is there much anxiety about the breed o|
cattle. There is little or ftlmoft no attention paid to the
Dairy, although milk, iq all its ihapes, would' find a good
and fteady fale in the town of Alloa. Somci^ wbjo hay< kep^
tn ezaA account of the fale of this article, are of opinion,,
that 61. or 7!. might be eafily made of m cow in the year.
—The farmers are diligent in procuring manure from the
town of Alloa ; but the quantity would be confiderably en-
larged if the flr^^ts were properly cleaned* Few farmers
have limed tQ any extent, thoijyjh the pra£Uce U creeping in.
There is no Umcftone in the pariih -, but it is brought, both
burnt and unbumt, from Lord Elgin's limeworks at Charlef-
town, ne^r Limekilns. The price of the flacked lime, deli-
yered at the Qiore pf Alloa, is aho^t 7d. the wheat boll (Lin^

4 H a lithgow

6 12 Statifiical Account

lithgow meafure), which is rather more than four Wiochefte|:
bufliels. The farmers generally bring up the raw lime ftooes,
and burn them on their lands.

//ir/o/ttr//— -The glebe of Alloa was one of 'the firft inclo-
fures of the parifb, which was executed by the prefent incum-
bent in 1761. It is a light, but fertile foil. It had been fo
much nejglefied, that it then produced nothing but wild mu-
ilard *9 and innumerable weeds. After incloHng and laying it
down in clover, the crop was fol^ green for upwards of 8K
per acre. Some few people near the town followed the mini-
fter*s example, and with good fuocefs. Upwards of 7 guinea^
per acre were got for the clover crop of 4 acres of the glebe,
in 1791.

Fjarmi. — ^^Tbere are various opinions concerning the iize of
farms. In general, fmall farms are reckoned mod advantage^
ous for the country ; but it is feldom that any definition of a
large or fmall farm is given. They are commonly ftated by
the rents ; whereas the number of acres, capable of being cul-
tivated to advantage, (hould be fpecified f • Pepple, in gene^

ral,

* It' if a cnrioui faft, that, in iome of Mr. EtSKiNk!! old rentals, among
the different grains paid by the tenants, a fmall quantity of umfard/eeiU aien*
tioned, though the cultivation of it here is now totally unknown.

f Some years ago, the late Mr. WinDBUBuaN of $t« Germains, in Eaft Lo«
thian, publiflied an ingenioui and fcnfible pamphlet, on this mod important que-
ilion, ^ What prof^rtiom of the produce of arablie land ought to be paid as rent
^ to the landlord ?** A book deferring the attention of every landholder and
tenant in the kingdom, as the knowledge of it would greatly tend to their
mutual benefit. Mr. Wedderbum 'fiates, that a farm of iso Scotch = 15^
jBnglilh acres of good land, is fuch an one as will enable a man to bring up a
ufeful family ¥nth credit' and comfort. Double chat quantity of ground, he
calls a mtddUJizsd farm; and three times the iixc, (560 Scotch = 457 £nglii(i

acres),

9f Mloa. 613

|-al, ^jt s^pt to form opinions from local circamft^nces,. and to
^pplj them indifcriminately to all fituations. What appears
% large farm, in fome parts of the country, would be called a
pioderate one, nay perhaps a fmall one, in others. It is an
undoubted fad, that in this pari(h, ^ntil the farms were en-
larged, hufbandrj was at a very low ebb. Any one, who re-
members the grounds In their former fiate, and who fees
them now, cannot but acknowledge the different appearance
that the country makes. Formerly, the miferable tenants
had wretched accommodation for their fiunilies, or produce of
their fields or cattle \ ragged children, with fcanty education ;
and wretched complaints of poverty at every term. There
are now fubftantial houfes, and convenient offices ; a double,
find often a triple produce \ fields beautifully drefled and in-
^lofed ; a wealthy tenantry, a9d growing improvements*.

jicres), a large one ; tad thinks tlist few or none ihonld eiceed it. Large fanni^
feme people maintain, depopulate the country, and occafion the rife of all kinds
of provifion, &c. &c. ; but there ar^ othcn who hold a Tery different opinion ;
^d. if we may be allowed to judge by analogy, with fome appearance of rea-
fon. U is allowed, that no trade can be carried on to advantage without a fuf-
ficient ftock; that the divifion of labour, and large dealings, enable people to
fell at a lefs profit, as the quantity fufficiently recompences for the lownefs of
the price. Why fliould the farming trade totally differ from all others f A
certain fize of a farm is abfolutely neceflary to carry on the bufinefs with any
profpedfc of fucccff. In thofe paru of Britain, where improyements have been
carried on to the greatefi extent, were they brought about by large or fmall farms ?
^Examine them miuutely, aod fee where the greauft (kill is difplayed, or the
largeft produce brought to market.

* The leafes are commonly given for 19 years ; but where the ground was fo
wild, that it required a tedious and cxpenfive procefs for the melioration of it,
a Bineteen years were given, with a fmall ri£e of rent at the commencement of
the fecond period. This is thought to be no more than equitable. Many gen*
tlcmen, who have tried improving ground thcmfelves, are thoroughly feniible,
that the bed part of a 19 years tack palTes away before any adequate profit can
DC received for the expence laid out ; and the farmer, who, from his knowledge
and ikill, adds to the (lock of the community, is certainly entitled to ample re-
tribution.

^14 Statiftical Account

Coal' — The collici7 of AUon h»yiQg been loog eflabliflied *,
there are ftill tnznj ancient cuftoips in it. The colliery could
not leave their work ; of courfe fooie recQmp!?ace f was ne-
ceiTary from the loaft^r. As the collier$ in this work gene-
rally bind tbemfelves for a certain term of JWSp little al«
teration ba9 taken jjace in tbis old cuftopi, notwithftanding
tb^ new collier law, which pafled in <77 j !• Tbc colliers, io
iU countriea, are generally an unruly fet of labourers ; and
tbofc of this work w^re like their neigbbppr?. About 39
yearj ago, they w^re perfuaded to give (bme little education
to their children ; and a few years after (when in fearch of s^
i^ew fchooltnaftcr for them), th? proprietor (?f $he cpUiery was

* This parifli bat been long fiunont for the fine cpsii mbes in h. ^oif
loog they hare been w^ponf^ is uncertain. There are accouau of the eipencc
ff vorkiog them in z6»3. The price was then 6t. 8d. per chalder. The £uae
meafure has been fold at a confiderably lower price within thefe 35 years^

f The allowance given to the old cottier, when paft labour, was two pecks of
meal per week, each weighing Sib. Dutch, or 81b. xi oz. avoirdupoife ; and
he had his free houfe and garden, and likewife his firing, continued to him, the
fame as when working. Every widow had one peck of meal per week, a free
houfe, &c. &c. ; and if (he had any fons grown up, who were able to carry on
their father's work at the coal wall, they continued at it, for behoof of the far
mily, as they did in their father's lifetime, until they were married.

I There were fome parts of the old la!^ which were barbarous, and which
andpubtedly required to be aboHihed ; but it is <}ueiUoned, whether the total
ftpeal of it has ma^e the collier happier, or if it has had the effed of inducing
common labourers to commence colliers, or to train up their children to the bu-
iineis, as was faid to be the ezpedlations of the promoters of it ; nor is the price
of working coal reduced. It is well known to all coalmafters, that a collier can
never earn fo much in any work, as in that in which he was brought up. The
prefent law has unhappily encouraged vagrancy amongft the colliers; and»
whenever they begin to wander, they generaUy bid farewel to indoftry. On
going to a new place, they confiantly, on fome pretence or other, ga money.
And as the collier has broken all ties of relationihip and habits, his head is con-
tinually on the rack to contrive fome method to Aift his place, in hopes of getting
more money from a new mafter^ withoot working for it.

if Alloa. 615

Ittcky en6iigh to fitid id old ferjelnt of t&e koyals, a dili^t
Tirtaotts man, who ttot bniy brought the children, but even
their parents, into fome kind of order and dtfcipline. This
his greatly affifted the prefent proprietor, who, dttriftig the
telidence of 21 Jreirft^ fafts paid particulkr attentioti to l\it col.
liers, and has ti6w the plearnre of feeing t very great reforma-
tion ^mong them. They were formerly remarkable for their
ignorance and didblutettefs of minri^ri. Th^y ar<i noW rtfther.
above the orditiary rate of the common people*. Each collier
has a free houfe and garden, a quantity of meal proportioned
to the number of the family, At the rate of io4d» per peck,
and their firing : Each family, upoA an average, confum^
rather more thin ^ cwt, pfer trtek. The colliers are paid by
the piece; their earnings, therefore, depend on their own
4iligeUce and ikiU. The price of working varies according to
the quality of die different feitms of coal. A good collier can
clear from 15I. to J5I. per annum ; an extraordinary clever
one may perhaps exceed this by xol. or ill. The depth of
a bearing pic cannot well exceed z8 fathom, or xc8 feet.
There are traps, or ftairs, down to thefe pits, with a band
rail to aflift the women and children, who carry up the coals
€0 their backs. The price given by the colliers is 4d. per
chalder, of 30 cwt. A diligent bearer often brings up, from
the bottom of the pit, 6 cfaalders, or 9 tons of coal iu the
weekf/ When the pits exceed the depth that bearers can

carry

«Tfaeyllavea(iiiu!, fike Mher friendly TodetMi, Ibr buryifl|; thdr dead,
^ybg their (bhoolmaftei^ aflaUd^ thofe thit ftre ill, Imd jg^iTing a finaU trille
aanva&y to the Widowa. There are 4 MIUs ktrafted tHdi the managemeiit
df this Aind. The principal oda is appointei by the proprietor of the Irork,
for 7 yean; dte 3 othen areaniiQiny chorea by him, from a lift of 9 given into
him by the tMtru They boM courts, to take cogaiaaoce of any diijpute or
mdbekatioor hi the CDllierr, and ekad fines frun the ofTendera, which are
ritf own into the general fund.

tThe weight which a good Bearer can carry, ia very great. Some years

ago.

6i6 Siatifiicd Aecotini

carry up the coal, the collier's price is redaced, as the mi^
iter is obliged to draw them up by gins, which is either
wrought by horfes, or driven by water. The water gin^
which has been in ufe here for thefe 70 or 80 years, is a tnoft
ingenious Ample maohine ^, There are two collieries in the
barony of Alloa, the oldeft of them, called the Alloa Pk/,
is about It mile difiant from the (bore; the other is the Colly-^
kmd^ and is about double that diftance. Tbere'ate various
feams in each colliery ; fome of 3, 4, 5 and 9 feet in thick-
nefs. They dip to the N. E. about I in 6 or 7.

The pits are free of all noxious damps, and have in general
a good roof and pavement, although there are iton floiles over
fome of the feams. The engine pit of the Alloa coal is about
48 fathom deep ; and the coal is drained by a water engine;
there having been a large refervoir of water oollefled (as has
been already mentioned), for that purpofe, about the begin-
ning of the century, as the fleam engine was then but lately

invented;

ago, the proprietor weighed a piece of coal, that a hmt woman had hrougfac
•at of a pit, l\ fathoms deep, and was aftoniflied to find it full % cwt« Another
woman carried an nncommon large piece of coal, from the mouth of the pit €•
the overfeer's honfe, a diftance of 400 yards \ and, hy the meafore of this piece
of coal, it TtxaSi have weighed 3 cwt.

* It is a wheel of 18 feet diameter, and appears as if two wheels were joined
together, with the buckeu of the one rererfed from thofe of the other. The
axle is 39 inches diameter, to which the rope that draws up the tubs, or conre,
is fixed. There is a dftcm placed over the wheel, divided in the middle. Each
divifion has a valve, esaAly over the centre of the di£Eerent buckets^ which valve
is opened by a Aider moved from the bottom ; fo that when the wheel turns'
round, it draws up the tub, or corve, of coals, weighing 6 cwt. and lets down
the empty one, on ihutting the valve ot thole buckets, and opening the othert
the corve that has ]aft been emptied is let down, while a frelh corve full of coals
is brought np^— The late Mr. B^^own, the fsmons engineo: and operative coal-
mailer at Newcaftle, was fo firuck with it, when he was at Alloa in z 774, that
be took a drawing of it; and, on his return to Newcaftle, contrived one on the
lame principles, to anfwer for their deep pits. ,

of Alha. 617

inveated, and not well known in Scotland. The engine pit
of tHe CoUyland is about 46 fathom deep; and the coal is
drain(^d bj a (team engine, fuppofed to be one of the beil of
the old conilrudion. This was eredcd in 1764"^.

. Vol- VIII. 4I The

« It has often been aiTerted, that there have been more cftates loft than madei
(efpeciallj in Scotland) by working coal mines. There probably hai been
feme foundation for foch an aflertion. The czpences of winning and keeping up
a colliery are eodfiderable, and the cotnmodtty >vill not bear a great price ;

.fo that it is only a large quantity, that can produce a profit adequate to the ex-
pence. While the coals of the barony of Alloa were brought to the (bore in
fniall caru by the tenants, the quantity was uncertain, and often not very con*
fidcrable* In Z768, a waggon way was made to the AUoa piu, which proved to
he fo great an advantage, that it induced the proprietor to extend it to the Coliy-
land, in 177]. The fales were by theCe means iocreafed, from i^ooo or zz,ooo

. chalders, to i5,oooor i6,ocx>. In 1785, the AUoa waggon way was worn out, and
required X^ be ranewed. This was done on a new plan ; and it is now acknow-
ledged to be the moil complete in Britain. A dcTcriptioo of It may therefore
be thought ufcful.

The fleepers are Tcry broad, and only 18 xnchea from centre to centre. A
rail of foreign fir, 4 inches iquafe, is pinned down to them ; and another rail.
of the £une dimenfioof, is laid over it, and the wfaok wcU beat up in good clay ;
on the top of the upper rail is laid a bar of malleable iron, of I j inches breadthi
and nearly fix-8«hs thick. The waggons have caft iron wheels, %^\ inches diamc.
ter, and are fuppofed to' weigh altogether about a ton. A waggon carries 30 cwt-
of coal^, and j waggons are linked together by chains ; fo that z horfc draws
j^\ tons of coal at once ; and the declivity of tlie way is fo gentle, that the fame
horfc draws with cafe the ^ empty waggons back to the coai-hilL , The advan-
tage of puttiilg the weight into 3 waggons, in pUce of z, is very coufiderable :
They are eafier to fill and empty ; and the throwing the weight over a greater
furface, does lefs damage to the waggon way, and is likcwife eafier for the 1
horfe as it is well known, that almoft the only Hxch a horfie has, on a good
waggon way, is in the firft ftarting of the w;:ggon ; therefore, if the whole 4^
tons were put into one waggon, the difficulty would be great \ hut as the wag-
gons,

6 it StatyOcal Aicount

The large coal fent to fea is fold at the Ihore, firom 8s. 6df
to 5^* per chalder, of 30 cwt. The fmaller coals, ivhich are
called cbawsy are fold on the coal^hill, for 13d. per cart f qf
6 cwt. — The cod of the barooj of Alloa is thought to be the
brtheft weft of anj coal north of the Forth.— -The colliers
prefef working in fhe night tinne ; fome go into the pits be-r
tween 8 and 9, and others again later. Thofe who are anxioas,
on any 'particular occafion, to draw a large fum on the Satur-
day, continue a very long time at t)ieir yrork : The ufpal time
is from xo to 11 hours. The men are, in geueral, rather of
a low ftature, though there are fome of them 6 feet. Manjr
of the young women are pretty. On Sundays and holidays,
both men aqd women are clean and neatly dreffed. I'hey eat

copfiderably

gottf , what ftioding ftiil, are clofe t« one tnotfaer, and the chains that link
them together are % feet long, the horfe hat only 30 cwt. of coals to pat in mo-
tion ; for, when he ftaru the firft waggon, the impetus of it, if it ^oei not ac^*
tually move, at leaft greatly al&ftt In monng the fecond and third. The firft
expence of making this kind of waggon way, is undouhtedly great, being 91^
leaft I OS. per running yard ; yet the proprietor has been long ago reimborfcd,
and is a confiderable gainer ; for although this road has been made thefe 6 years,
it has required no repair worth mentioning, and it is npw near as good as when
firftlaid.

f Aboat $s ycv^ 3|r^* tl^>* l^i°<l ^^ coal was fold for 6d. The price has
f ifrn gradually as the demand has increafcd. The confumptioo of coal in Scotland
is confiderably greater than formerly; which is probably owing, in fome meafurc,
to the improvements of agriculture, &c. the country people having icarnt to
efiimate the value of their time ; and) by calculating how much is confumed in
making peats, they find, th«t coals, though brought from a great diOance,
is a cheaper, as well as a pleafanter fuel. — The cfieA that any extraorXnary ^tf^
irefs in tlie country has, on the fale of coal, is very evident. On the (hock that
credit received, by the great failures in 1772, the fale of coals, at this port, diffli«
nifhed 6ne third ; and it was 4 years before the ufual^ demand ioA place ; An^
the conScqnenccs of the miferablc crop in X78», were felt, pretty nearly in fhf
fame manner, in x 783.

of Alloa.

619

iiionfiderably more meat thaa other labourers, and «re, on the
Whole, a happy race of people. They are generally healthy ;
few of tbem, however^ work at the coal wall after 63 years
bf age; but they are able to do foine eafy work below ground,
for many years after that tioie of life. The women live
longer than the men*

The following tables may be depended on as particularly
iexaft. The account of the births tad burials are taken fronx
the books of the collier's fund*

TABLlK I.

Shewing the Number of MALES and FEMALES in the
CohLlERT of AlLOA^ at all Ages^ in 1780,

.«

l«

• *3

At I

At ai

At 43

Ac 64
-65

»3

ft6

'47

ftg

7»

'»

5»

3»

/«

0 0

.17

•• J

X r

0 %

' 41

x| »

%%7 ,348

4»

«3

1 '

TABLE

620

Statiftical Account

TABLE U.

Shewing the Number of MALES and FEMALES in tte

COLLIERT of jiLLOAy at all Ages ^ in 179I.

e
s

XJndcr I

At X

ft
3

5
6

7
8

17
18

I* I

6 j

XX I

3
5

4
JO

3
6
6

4
6

5
9

4
6

-1

b, •

•s

•

•3

At 21

8 :

""" 1
At 42

At 63

! 1%

• 43

7 '

6 :

4 '

■1 •

4«

4 •

2 I

4 ;

.74

2 1

34
35
36

5 !

. 0

■ 3

39
40
41

7
3

60
61
62

2
X
0

. X

»3X

289

TABLE HI.
SUMMART T^IEfVofthe two preceding ^ABLES.

Totil number in X780.
IJoder 7 years of age

From 7 *<> '4

— ^ 14 to 20 — —

20 to 27 •

. 27 to 34

34to4t

4X to 48

48 to 55 — —

■N 35 to 62 -^ — '

62 to 69 — —

■■ 69 to 76 — —

76 to Ho

Aged, H — —

Ma. Fern. To/.

30
40
34
18

19
14

9
6

Total number m z 79 1 . Ma,
Under 7 years of age, 4 *
From 7 to X4 —
— 14 to 20 — —

ao to 27 -

27 to 34 -

34 to 41 -

' 41 to 4S -

48 to S5 .

5 J to 62 -
i2 to 69 •
69 to 74 -

76 to 80 •

Aged, • 9»-

40
93
34
22

»9
12

12
6

I
o

62 X04
42 8a

34
37
26
%%

15
15
X5

7
3

227 248 475

23 X 28y 5a<
TAMJ

of AUm.

6zt

T A B L E IV.

Shewing the Numbers nf BlRTHS and BURIALS^ in th
COLLIERT of AtLoA^ during tbe following Years* m

Yean.

BIRTHS.

BURIALS.

Children.

Youths.

Aged.

TotsL

11%% 18

- 1

1783 16

1784 15

1785 13

1786 13

1787

»5

3«

1788

1789

J790

1791

9 .

Totals,

i«5

4»

149

Averat.

x8 5-iotht

9 4-IOth8

X 3.ioth»

4 »-loths

X4 9-iotht

Some of the colliers have left the work between the jears
2780 and 1 791* and perhaps a few have come into it ; but
the variations are certainlj not greater, than what happens ia
moft pari(hesy which have the fame number of fouls. The in-
creafe, bj the above tables, is 3 and 6-ioths per annum;

Which, in II yesn, amoanuto 39.6-xotht.7 Number by numeration 51 4.6-1 oths
Kumberin 1780, - - 475 3 ■ ini79i» - 520 •

Differenoci -> 5.4-Xothfc

ManufaBures. — Formerlj this parilh was famous for ma-
nnfafturing tobacco ; but it is long fince it loft its reputa*
tion for that article ; although there is flill a little fnufF made
here. For a long time the camblet branch took the lead, and
was confidered as the (laple manufadure. It is in the neigh-
bourhood of the wool of the Ochils \ and the young people

were

4( N, B. fVithin thu ptriod there vtAx oiu JiUl hlrtbt Vfk'uh is nst taken notUe tft
4iiher in tbc^irtltt or burials, -

Sal Stdti/tkat Jfeoumi

Here bred to thefe woollen emplojmenu. An early edneatibcj
in this branch gave theni a great fuperioritj ; and this pre*
eminence opened np a variety of marketSi both at home and
abroad^ Great quantities were fent to England ; which^ after
being drefled up, and finiihed off with a peculiar neatneils^
were returned and fold in our markets, at a very advanced
price. The late Lord Cathcart, when prefiding at the
Board of Police, was attentive to this circumftance, alid pro*
pofed to bring people from England, who ibould inftrua them
in drcf&ng their caihblets. At that time the defnand il^as
great, and the patriotic propofal was not accepted. Till withia
thefe few years loo looms have been employed in this branch.
Whether the demand for camblets has diminifhed, or that the
young people have figured to themfelves an eaiier, or more
fp^bdy way of getting wealth, by the fea, or the occupations
cannefted with the diflillery, or to whatever caufe it is owing^
there is undoubtedly a great decreafe in this manufafture.
At prefent, there are oot above 40 camblet looms, and per-
haps as many employed in ferges, and inferior Jbrts of woollen
fluffs. The manufadure of narrow apd broad cloths has been
lately introduced, and promifes well. Scotch, llnglifh, and
Spanifh wool have all been made nfe of in this trade ; and
fome very beautiful cloth has been produced. The coarfe%
kinds are moftly ibid in the Fife markets ; the fineft in the
neighbourhood to perfons of tlie iirft rank. About 19 or ao
hands are employed in this cloth manufa&ure, each of whom
make good wageb*. There are 30 or 40 people employed in

the

* 'ThoDgh it is ruppotcd, that there can he no great di^erence in the rate of
wigct, hetwecn this and other places, yet it may anfwer fome pvrpofet to thofe
who pay attention to this fuh}e<5t, to Hate them eza6tly« A hroad cloth wea«>
ver can make from aod. to as. per day ^ a man fpinning by the jenny, 4 fpinel
a day, is. 6d. ; a womaq, fcribling, per day, lod. ; a man, fcribling upon difh
cards, per day, as.; ditto, hand cards, per day, is. 4d.; women, fpZnnmg' fin^
yam by the hand, 8d.; a man, dreffing cloth, per day, is. 6d.s a toaa^ dying
wool, per day, as.

tf Alloa. 623

the woollen branches, in the village of Tullibodj. The inha«
bitanu of all the villages, at the foot of the Ochils, arie d^pofe^
to the like employments ; and, from their long and early ha-*
bits, thefe ftations feem proper for feconding the efforts of the
woollen manufadurers.

The linen manufaftures, of every denomination, carried on
here, are moflly for home confumption, and generally accord-
ing to the tafte and fancy of private families. — Of late, mi^n
looms, with fly (buttles, have been fet up, and do a great deal
of bufinefi. The webs are fent, ready warped, from Glafgow,
and the cloth is returned. Eight or 10 looms are already em*
ployed, and there is a demand for ao more ; as there feems to
be here, as well as in other places, a growing fpirit for thele
cotton branches.

A Foun^ry^ upon a fmall fcale, has been for fome time
eftaUiihed here. The metal was generally brought frooa
Carron, and employment given in calling waggon wheeU»
pots of different fizes, and other fmall articles in that way.
-—There are a few nailers here, and manufa&urers of other
branches of iron work| * for the (hipping.-!— There is a very
ingenious m^n, who makes large ponMejOll-yardj for weigh-
ing cattle, carts, Sec. He has been employed at Dundee and
Greenock, for ereAing public ones, which have given great
fatisfadion ; and the demand for them feems to be increaGng.
— There are a few rope^makers here. There are Ukewifc fome
good Wrights t (carpenters), in all branches. — ^There u ^fiip»

builder^

* The late Sail of Mark was ytrj affiduoas in procnriog the beft traded
|neo to fettle at Alloa. There was a remarkable good finith then fixed here.
BtiU'yMrdi and Amm/ were particularly well exeeuted« Ever fince his time, there
has been a facceffion of good hands in that branch.

t There is a natite, a cabinet-maker^ who returned here, (where he has a
^U property), about 94 years ago, after having been long in London. He

wai

624 Statifiical Account

luilder^ who bears a Terj good cbarader, and bas a very iv^
geniou^ youpg man, a fon, breeding under bim.

Markets^ Prices of Provifioni^ Wf.— There arc 4 dated
annual fairs in Alloa, viz. on the fecond Wednefdaya of Feb-
ruary, May* Auguft and November -, and 2 weekly markets,
on WedneCday and Saturday. The manner of living, of all
ranks of people in Scotland, is coniideraUy changed within
thefe 30 years. In 1763, there were but 4 bakers in Alloa,
,9 of whom had but little employment : There are now 14.
JSome of them carry on a pretty extenfive trade. The mode of
living, probably. Las more a£feded the wages of labourers,
&c. than the price of grain, though that muft have fome in*
fluence on them. In order to judge of this, the following
•prices of the fiars are given. It is much to be regretted, that
.there is not fome fuch method fallen on, to, record the prices
.of meat, &c. at 4 different times of the year;

MID'LOTHJAN

was reckoned one of the bed jonmeymeii there. And it deferrps to he men-
tioned, that in one of the firft fhops in l^ondon, where 80 hands were employed.
• S of the Tcry heft were born in this parifli. And a yoang man, who ftrved hit
apprenticeihip with the above m«mk>ned cabinet-maker here, is now foreman in
a very prmctpal cabinet waithoufe in London.

i>f Alladk

62^

QUA • 4b o p

MNt^ M »> S btf

o6« l» O H S ^

4k o ^ o» v» ^ *^

OS O O ^ S (V.^

4^ o* o o 00 s !)

M o o o o

M" M M M _ fT •

if-

t^ 0» <*.« 0«M

fe» o ooMo6^ »o

0^« %» M » C^ ^

M M M O

0«4^ m4^ ^ fS

M M H M M M •

<^w 0 o o r J

O
>

a
>
>

»-•

HMHMHMM ^^

«• *4 OsOt 4b M O IS

oo»04b0^os r;

to 4b ^ 00^ ««« 0» C^ *«

MMMMMMMr* >

55. CO..,. ..?•"•

«- -.-^

Ot«*ftHMMS3>

t»4ilOk»0»0OtC^Q

Ob>4 9^00004^ •OH a

t-»

►

Moaoeoor-«^S

M M «4

1-4

§.?

5''

8»

S C^W««>o r M

^5=

^MNMMMM** !*

e^(.#« »»»»«»»>«»' ^

»4b ^ W M « O, %.y^

- Ji

M M M M M M Ht

4bC*MOOMdr »^

CO ^ e<g* o «> H S e r

vm.

W^f««

$!<$

Stattfktiff JhOuni

)9^^>.— ^1^6 totvAki and prefent rate of wages U fbited^&
the aooezed tables *^ ; birfides wkicfi, the oiiudooc plouf^mea'
have fome &UI1 enidliltDetiCs, ftich as Kberiy ta plaat ^ of 3.
pecks of potatoes, bc.^ &c; Servants and tmdeficnen are al*-^
lowed no meat or beer ; fom^times in harreft tSejr get a draoi.'
Few or no fervants are bhod' b^ the month, or harveft tvtas^

altiioogl^

*' About tW tfib^ of CAe" tfUoo, the flbaimoB^ayV ^ngltt of a Ubonm woo
from 5a. to 6d. per day. When livery mealwai ^v^, «|ltelil, or x6lb*
Butch oreight, (aboat equal to 17 lb. 4) aVbirdapoife), per week, feem im ha^po
heen a!^a/fi the fitcd qnaanff . Fbn&erlr, moft p«rt of the ploo^men lived im
ike farmer's houlei^ smd bad ^eir fete, (or ^ges)» and bouMico j which were^

Iko
* o

4elb^gnBf cMiat yaperelt ^ -' «^'

6 ditto of ham, or oftffe linen, &r (hirnii at' 6d. paf d!l;

4. ditto of plaiding, or coarfe flaaoel, A Zdd. }er e&»

a pair of iboc% «r in aMoej, • « • • .^ o

Total ratne of hbuntief,' • •- • • ^ X^o^i^-
Fee,o^tlhigfe^;piiriiltitftiy. i • v «- • « o

♦ o
S o
z S

5 o

3»

ront wSigts^-

h.% ly^ 9

Tbofe pIoi%IifiMm wha ^5i^ndt \Ac in fte fitfite^ tiMR, W. Vfidet tfidr
ilirety meal, 6^ hoIU per annum, aiid 4d per weel, uw9tk tM fla4Ae of Icifchea
money. In order to ktfow die waglb of the ont^loor pWoghittAt we maft pot
a yalne on the meaL Thb it done in the fbllowifif tahlp, h^ ftfeing tlie jtoice
of meil, on an average of %$ years j^eceding tfaa jeA ifwhed*

Yean.

H. ?longhmen

iV utntitm.
. t. t. i.

1754
1760

ar ij S
300

1773
r790

4 10 0
6' 10 e

bat*d< Plonghmcn.
6 O O IZ

7 4 s^ r

ti 19- 6 7

DtfyUkttitM..

#. ^ ^

o 7 or 8
orzo

o 0 <

MtidSerrantt;

&alf yearly,

f. «. d;;
000
000
zoo
I Z<5 O

woflrtif^ ^ .

KE!f»

ttASOWfchMiaqTS,

r ■ *.

CAXPev

(n^e field.

In harreS

In htrveft.

MlWWOi'k.

i-'rri.^.

F^da,

Ar i&^.

'^T

Pet day.

i'tfl'Ay.

Year

i. d.

i, d.

/. d.

/. 1/.

/. d.

»79^

0 6

0 10*

1 0-

» ^

X S

s 8

otd woHb»<
a

of Alloa: 627

ftlchougb many farmers engage women to {hear (reap) for
them in harveft ; but then they are engaged by the day, o^
half day, according as they are employed* Almoft any num-
ber can be got, at a fhort notice, from the town of Alloa » and
it is no uncommotn fight to fee 60, 80, or 100 reapers in one
field. Of late, there haye been undertakers for cutting down
a.farmer*s crop, at 5s., 5s. 6d., or 6s. per acre, according to
the apparent eafe or difiiculty of the work.

Poor, — ^The number of poor, who were formerly obliged
to accept of conftant ailiftance, was but few, while thofe who
Aood in need of occafional aid were numerous ; and yet the
kirk«felIion*, befides paying for the education of many young
people, have been able to lay up money againft any uncom-
mon calamity.

4 K 2 jin

* The Lflgiilatnre, id 159 1» plated the care of the poor m the Ki r ■•Sis sign ^
ivhich is an ecdefiaiUcal court. They have cftfiemed this ft moft important
truft ; and have accordingly regarded it as their duty, to be perfe<21y well ac-
quainted with the fituation and difpofitioit, of thofe who appty for relief; and
af&fted them in proportion, from the colledbions made at the church doors, and
' other fmall duel payable to the feffioti ; which were, for the moft part, found
fuflicicnt for the purpofe. Under fnch attentive and careful management, the
ad, 1671, was, for the moft part, found nnneceffary ; and therefore, it is believed ,
was nenr put in prvAice in any pariih, until the hard winter of 1740. By this
ad> " the heritors, minifteirs and elder* of every pariih, were required to make
"* a lift of all the poor within the parifh, to liquidate a yearly Aim for their
^ maintenance ; the one half to be paid by the heritors, the other half by the
<* othcr^houfeholders.** In X 740, fome counties and particular parilhes, in order to
oblige abfent heritors, to contribute their ihare towards aflifting the poor in their
ciiftrefs, began to enforce it ; and moft of them have ever fince followed that
method* although it has brought on fome few difputes about fettlemeots, and
other difagreeable circumftances attendant on all rates. But the greater part of
^e country moft happilj.continued to intruft the management of the poor to the
Icirk-ld&ua ; and it may therefore be fairly prefumed, that m^ft of the kirk*
£iffioBs m Scotland have been as attentive to this important part of their duty,
as the feilion of this parifli ; who have executed tbeic tnift, fior this century paft,
moft faithfully and jadicioufly.

6zB

Statyiical Account

«S» ^4k (M M o 8
OkM O^M O^M B

o <^ O t^ O «^ 1^

H MM M .,

O000O**»^CM^ ^
1^ MO* »»'»» M O

o»^ «^ 4» "ot w« r*

M .

oooeo o 00 00*

oo>6 o 00^ >* ^•

M M M

o^»^ o O £

Moooooor*

^ to 0^<»4 Vi« Cfi* <«• *

MM M ^ IL

Ok O O » M 00^ ***

^o» O «» «» 00<^ •

*> «» ^ p ceo O F-

0» >0 >» «»4 "^ O"^

* M\0 O O vjr o^

M M M M M M ,,

•• 9^00»» O^ *» •

**4 **» O C0>4 e»» M ^

Oi k> O* ^ Oi M

b« ^ M« o o « ^

^ M »oe^ ^ ^ N

« M

-«* O H M 1^

^*->OOMOOfV.

Number of

on the roll.

s s

Number of occa-

fional Poor.

Toul number of
Poor.

2.|

StrangCTt.

11°

en S?

2 I.

•a

tf Alloa. 629

The ftccount of the poor, from which this abftrafi is taken,
affords many particulars worthy of obfervation ; but it is too
irolnaunous for this work. Ija general, the number of poor
feems to have increaled, when the price of meal was high ;
but although the price was foon reduced, it was a or 3 years
^fore the numbers returned to the common average ; and in
iav» years the poor were numerous, although the price of
sneal was moderate. ^

• The coUe&ions at the thurch doors prove the propriety of
that method of gathering alms. The diminution tha^ began
to take place in them about 1734, was probably occafionedby
the feceiEon from the church, as the coUeiftion at die meeting-
houfe was never taken, (although the law would have allowed
this to be done), the funds muft confequently have fufiered.
The afliftance given to the paupers, on the ordinary lift, in
169X, was z6d. per month. This, at firft view, will appear
irery inadequate ; and yet there is no tradition of the poor
liaving been neglefted, or of their fuffering greater dilhefs than
itt prefent. About the year 1720, a greater allowance was
given in extraordinary cafes ; but the i6d. per month flill
•continued the ufual aiBfiance till 1776, when applications
for afliftance from the kirk-feifion became more frequent and
preffing ; fo that the minifter was induced to apply to the he-
ritors, and the reft of the pariihioners, for fome enlargement
of the fuods, and an aid to prevent ftrolling beggars from
preying on the pariih ; when an annual contribution was
cheerfully agreed to, and liberally fubfcribed for. Moft of
the occafional poor, at that time, were thought proper objeds
to be put on the ordinary lift. Such of the poor as are put
on the ordinary lift, are oblig^^o fubfcribe a writing, mak-
ing over to the heritors, and kirk-feiBon, all their little clothes
and moveables, which, at their death, are fold for theiocreafe
^l the fund. This is intended to cut off all improper appli-

4 K 3 cations

^30 t^l Statffikal Afcount

The ufiul allawaaice given to a pauper, on the ordinarj .
lift, is 33. per month. This allowance, though ic maj appear
fcanty Co fuch as have never thought on the Xnbjed, is ra*
ther ample, when cpn^pared with that given in 1691. Meal
was then almoft the only food of the poor ; and the price of
at, taken on an average of 25 years, was, by the Mid- Lothian
£ars, xis» per boU, or SAd. per peck. The wages of a la-
bourer waa then from 5d« to 6d# per day. Th^y i|ow get
from zod. to is. ; and in all probability they get more con-
ftant employment -, and the price of meaU by the fame fiars
and average,:is i^s, s-/«d. per boll, or lO^Ad. per peck. Nor
do the poor any longer depend folely on meal for their food,
88 that oftoft agreeable and nouriihing root, the potatoe^ is
every where raifed in great qnantities, and is happily become
the ** fuilenance of the poQr» and luxury of the rich**** The
medium price of it here is from 4d. to 4Tid. per peck,
weighing full 20 lb« Dutch weight, about equal to ax | lb.
avoirdupois. It is to be lai^nted, however, that this bleffing
does not kfien the number of applications for aid from the
parifh : On the contrary, they are becoming more frequent ;
«nd receiving pariih ai&ftaoce is no longer looked on, by the
poor themfelves, or even th^ir relations, wi]^ that horror it
was formerly. When the receiving pariih fupply comes to
be regarded as a common occurrence, it is obvious, that the
poor's rates f will become general in Scotland, unlefs thegreateft
attention is paid by all ranks of people to prevent it. The
management of the poor is a moft difficult buGnefs. It is 9er-
tainly the wifli of every benevolent perfon, to relieve their
wants as far as poffiUe ^ but to edabliih rates, is creating a
bnrdcn on the induftrions, without giving relief to the pauper.

Climatf^
* Vide SomerTiUe^s Fable pf the Two ^priogt.

t The laws of afieflinent Ibr the niaintenanee of the poor, not haT*
N Ing bceo univciially p«t tn pra^tl<e in Scotfeod, have made many

^ people

' tJSmUtt^ fitjiitfi^ a»i lonj^^V/.— Although tbe town of
AHo* lies low, ie 10 aHowed to be pretty httalcbj* The epid^ .
Aical diftafes of fevel*Br fmftll pox^ &ie^ carry off fewer thaa
ki !%«' iHSighbottniig parifkes^ Agues aM now fcaroeljr ever
he^i of. Its fitihition by tbe fide of a great riTer, wbef« tho
atfjgfvrhiir iotving of the tide is attended with a fitong oorrent,
ftrv(es 10 p1»¥^ tfWay tbe damps, and ec give a frelhuefe and
pUrftj^ to the ttn Though it i» not remarkable for the loi»«

people imagine that thcre'are no Taws extant concerning that part of the police*
The iz6L ta, that thef are^Tcry fimilar to thofe of England (wde Dr. M^FaklanV
Htquirut toneennmg ^ ^MtJ'y and difl^er only in a few points, ihch at aa inat'*-
t»mitte reader may eondiidb are of no great eonleqeenet; and yet tfiofe KHle
dlilbedfief ha^e prohaMy prewnted the burden, from becoming aa heavy, in thofe
parts of Scotland, where th& poor's laws are enforced, as they are in En^^nd.

The BrM'fiJftiu^ *being a corporate body, are joined with the hentors, as the -
idminiilraton of .the poor's fands. The mmifUr and t^eafirer generally Inpw
the circttmfbMces, and charaAer, of frery individual that applies to them ; and, b|p
Coofhuit attention, become ptrfcift maAerr of the bufinels and pride tbemfcl^ea
no ezeCQting their trufl' moft Cuthfuily. Whereas in Engbnd, the church war-» ,
dens, and overfeers of the poor, to whom this tmffc is committed, are chofenr
annually ; fo that, by the time they hare learned the bufineft, they are removed ;
and whatever good regnlations they oiay have made, their fuccelTors, througb
x^orance, or defigo, either alter or negled them. Kor can it be fuppofed>
tSiat any annual office, which, though very troublefome and di&greeaBlr» is not
bohed on in the moll favourable b'ght, will Ik attended to with diligence bj
any individual, if he fees little chance of hi» bcfl intentions being of any fervice;,
but, it is more than probable, he will endeavour to pafs it over, with as littlr
trotthie or vexation as poflible. And the power of altcflinent lies entirely in th^
church wardens and overfeers* ; as it is no longer confidered, that the concurrence
«f the inhabitants, for making a rate, is at all neceflary. Though the law requires
iStax the ovcricers, &c. ihould have the confent of two juftices, it has become »
Bierc matter of form ; f for, when jufEices have refufed their confent, the Court
ef King's Bench baa compclkd'them to allow the rate. But in Scothnd, the
heritor* muft meet with ffae fcirk-feifion, before any afTciTment can be laid oyi
fhe parifh t and this obliges them (efpectaUy as they raufl pay one half of the
•flVffment), td be attentive to the maaagcment of the poor's funds.

♦ Fide BtnCt 7«^«cr, Edk. X5#^, rdAItfag* 574. \ IHth.p^gt 535,

Iji Siatifiicdl Account

i^evky of its iohftbitantfSy jet tbcre are not n^antiifg mknf in'
fisnces of long life. Some years ago, a man, in the labotr^
ing Ibe of life, died at the age of loi. Within thefe few
weeks, an old foldier died, i¥ho, from his age in Che mnfiei;
xoU 1746, muft have been 103. A woman of the coUiesy
died, about 5 or 6 weeks after the preceding lift was taken^
iged ^2. There are many old people on the poor's roll y ist
particular one woman pad 90. There are 5 men and 5 wo-
ven now living, who are paft fto; and there are 13 men, and
30 women paft 70 *•

Population. — The foIIowiD^ tables of births are eztraSbeJ
from the regifter of baptifms i and although this may not be.

perfedly

* There is an inilance of longevity, which is too remarkable to be pafTed over
unnoticed, viz. Giorge Abercrombv, Efq. formerly of Tullibodv, sow of
6rucefield, who is r native of this pRrifb, and was born in the year 1705.
Notwjthftanding his ^eat ngc, he is ftill in good health, and Ajoys \tit and th^
company of his friends in a furprifing manner. He is in perfed fkoflcffion of all
his faculties ; and though he fometimes comj^lains of his (i^ht and hearing, evi-
dences the fame acatenefs of judgment, that diilinguitfied him in hi< yonnge^
years. He can relate fa<5ls, of an early date, with great accuracy, and apply thenk
with uncommon fagaclty to prefent occurrences. Thit deferving old gentle-
man is greatly refpc&cd by all his acquaintance, andf has been fingularly for*
tunate in his faxhily. His eldeflt fon, General AberCromet of T uLLiBonr,
to whom he has made over bis cftate in this paiilh, no\^ commands part of tfi^
Britiih forces in Holland. His fccond fon, Gekeral Sir Robert Asbrcroi^
•V, i» governor of Bombay, aud commander in chfcf of the forces in Bengah
Having lately ccmmapded one of the armies ag^inft Tippoo %xit\ his Majeiljr
lias rewarded his fervlces, by creating him a Knight of the Bath. His third folk
is Lord Abercrombt, one of the fenat«rs of the College of Juflice, whofe ap-'
pointment to that important cflice gives general fati&fadion. His daUgjhtei^
are mofi refpedably married ; and, what is flill mere, he fees the riling gettera)-
fion trading in the footfteps of the former : General Abercromby's cldeft fon Ut
aow accompanying Lord Elgin in his embaffy : His fecond is a captain in India':
And all this (tngular profperity, the worthy cM gentleman lives td fee, to cnjo^,
and TO Givs Gon the praise.

q/ Alloa, 6^^

^erfediy exaft, jei there is nb appetranc^, that tlie omiffionil
bf any oile period differ greatly from thofe of another ; and it
inuft be obfeirvedy that the niimber of boys and {iris are near*
\j equal. The prbgreffitre aterage mpre readily poiiits out
the rife and fall, than could be feen from a comparitbn of 25
yearsy fi-om iti6S to 169)9 with the lanie number of yeftrs^
from 1093 to 17174

Jn Account of the Numier 0/ ^APttSMS of MALES and
FZMAhES^ in tbi Pariftf of AllOA^ txtraSed from thi
public Regifter^ from the Tear 1668 to 1790 / "tiohb U
^Procressute Average of 2$ Tearsi,

^
g

166S

0 <

i5p4

5«

119

2(J i

i3»

100

i6yo

5»

«s

t02

7»

5»

X02

.59

'27

i02

^!1

103

«9

1700

102

100

103

3tf

122

«03

lot

112

104

1I2

5«

104

1680

10*

ixo

105

5<J

»05

S«

100

5«

top

106

5»

JlOI

106

4(5

1710

5»

5«

106 106

loo

5»

ilplio5

4«

to6

1241 107

t03

i23{ioS

. 88

i«

tea

i '^

Z15 108

«o5

, »5

5»

126 jop

i6po

4»

! Id

114.109

«7

7»

xsaliii

«s

3« 1 44

1 18

Z39<^IS

44 1

»3«

*tf

. J9

««

138

1X31

Voi.VIII.

Tcarf.

$54

Statiji^ai Axoufft

' ji

' J'

•3

■ tf-

' u

f F ti

l^fff

' 3

J 1

•

1720

5<^

147

^5^5

«3

119

.113

1 41-

I 73

5<J

57i

^W*

. 5/

57»

toS.

• ^»

,64

7«

142

Ij6

. 58

5»

5*5

107

ixa

»3

58.

tfj^

'136

■1*7

• 59

5<?

*XVI

xia

«4

116

j»a

i^^°

,^i

iia.

• ^S

:tfi

»o5

X19

'6a

'S6

114

: s6

'59

ir9

5«.

it.

'W5;

113

<57

59^

ia6

xi6

' S9-

III

119

S«

X56

1x9

107

1X9

i.a8

lao

1730

66*

1.38

xai

. 31

:'*7.

»^

. ^

6a,

L6S

,!•

'1?

.'xal^

'54

•59-

119

*i»o

6ff

«4

'<t

' 3>

'di

54'

rat

I2X

.58

17^

134

^xa6

i
r

.61

5»

121-

»77o

»5a

.xa8

'Si

;tfs

isv

104

13L

7«

.fe

-<S;3

145

;f«9

•*'!

lar

, 7*

.^5

.75

t*'

. H5

130

<(x

p6.

.6^

*54

^13^

*i2

«3

•77

•s

140

lI3^

39*

58'

.66

16a

13a

174°

ixS

. l^

«7

<55

149

»3}

' 41

6PF

3«

xr6

: 77

6«

109

13J

i **

L09.

: 7«

,69

[84

I^X

13$

i 40

106.

.74

!^»

143

13#

' 44'

i«o

11 »

r78o

:7o

.169

^i37

' '♦^

<^s

141

iri

' 8i

roo

■7'

<»

^175

1.40

4<J

109.

xzo

.161

V4|i

5«

S»

115

109

l""

•y

.'H

i4«

5«

<53

13a

X09

<y5

i44

5»

135.

109

103

1(78

x47

1750

130

iir

i4?

III

'^'

.1*40

»i4r

.. 5*

5<5

110

IXI

.91

7?'

iSJ

i49

<55

127

III

78-

74^

7!*

:ij66

i50 *

/54

iia

1:190

.74

l79l5P

\i^

'i5> :

I SS

tfr

133

i3« " ■ ' _ ^

«e

•^« THc dtecrmfcitliit apfiean, from i739i to T744. wv|Xo1»b|y <MiiiigCD t^
Suedcrt XKgle6ing to regifter tl^eir childfw*! names^ We axe now esibl«d»
frpm the Parliwfmtary, Xigijfer (which iikcpt bcrtt with caxfl), tofiir»iih apretty
cc^rcA lift fc' * y^r» (preceding >79t), of marriagci and HirtVp, A» the Uftf
•( maiTJaget were alwap dteemed pretty cjsaft,, ao ycaw have fteen taken, andp
cqirpucd with the 8 yieart preceding 179% which wt cafl tht I^mtimmtHUrf
Jbgjfier^ from hi beiikg kept in cmfe^uence of the ad of pst^liam^nt in W}24^
The amoa^t of theic abyean i»876; average,, 43v*nd 4 fifths
The amoum of the laft 8 yeaw i» 349;; average, a3\ "^^^S cightha.
HlH wondcrftd coincidcoce make* it evideutytbat there caA.be IHtlo crew.

The kiptha, in R-yeari, I>aa64 ^cragei 1.5a, and I fourth
. ... C The deaths, in ditto, 1,170 J. s^^cngfe, 146, and I eigkik^
iPhe deatht in 1 787 are remarkable ; no left than 249 ; aboat xoo of which were
cJrildreD, carried off by the {mall pox. Fcvcn and fluxes proved very fatal that year*

rf Alloam

^^ss

• Tiie foQowisg ttbles of enUmeratibn are thooglit to be
paiticiilarlj cxaQ. They vfetc all taken by AeXatne man ;
nvho, in tach of thet)| fist doi»n tbe ubLJht% of every bead of a
<aa^y«

too ;i " "W

>• s *- * S

■a

>
« « O

W I* Off ,
*^ -* "-^

III

> a h

* *

SO «o ^.,

1..

|J3

00
00

j^o?^

<OO^0 o o

'94

$&««

!<>::

5J^3*

•O

9 •^***

W lO "O

••oboo •* 1^

M «o «0 r^ r^ 1 >•

•3

6^o M

^ tooe «>^ o^

v»

gS?ff«^Sl

« •« 0 we

£'«J'^»

t»"^

^*-

^*R«5

« I

• •
. 1

•

• «
1

• 1

• •

•

mil

4L a

Statjfiical Account

.« i

tltdb^idgt

«i3q3Jttqt)ilV

ftidq&ing

ftnoi pnuo

inox

ooioio^iaojj
o^ oi of moJ j

of o) 91 vioij

9t o) 01 wojj

•jvai o| idpon

1«W>1

ooioio^taojj

ot 4) of oiojj

of o) 91 indjj

91 o» 01 inoj^

uBdi px ispnn

^O«o

j^t^o o o

0%l>. M M O
M ft d O^

fO^ •> c« «o

M W) CO M >0

M O *<

"ft*-

00 c««

wn O ct

{*!?

e*» »*i wo

3 ^M

»^ tn ^ O «

«o w

« M C« 1^ «0

00 w» O c««

00 «« H M

d If) «o M r^

^ C«| C< M ^

♦>» «^ ^ O «

9^00 '♦oo r*

00 M M Ct

M M O 00 M

00 ^W •O

00 A k^

Q 0^00 )

o • •

bis

'11-

<J y hfc Q :-.

V V .S

tfAllpa. ^37

CfiJlomJtouJi^ Sec. — The pi^blic revenue and nmtters of trade,
are ^managed b^ a cuftom^houfe, which was e&abliihed here a
ihort time after the Union. It ytz^ at firft only a creek, be*
longing to the port of Bortowftowoneds. The port of Alloa
not only comprehends th^ town of Al^oa, bat alfo the creeks
of Clackmannan! Kennetpans, Kincardine, Cambus and Ma**
nor, on the north fide of the river; Airth, Punmore, or
EIjAbfloney and.Fallini on the fouth, together with the flior^
of Stirling. — The Ihips and yeflels belonging to the port, bjr
the rett^ma lately made, amount to 1 1 5 ; their tonnage to 7,24 1 ;
for the navigation whereof 500 men are employed. Th^
fiaple trade for thefe (hips is coal. Tlie greateft number of
the vefTels are employed in the coaft trade-. About 50,000
tons of coal are annually fcnt, frpqpi the port (o places withia
the frith of Fgrth, and to parts in the eaft and north of Scot«
land. The export and import trade is alfo confiderable { it is
9arrie4 to an4 from the pqr^s of PenpaarJ^ Norway, Ger-»

mapy,

|bake up the defidencj, tlitt might bay(» happened, firom the falling off of the
camblet trade.

The enlargement of the ferms would probably have been given, at a principal
realbn for the diminution, if the 3 enumerations had not proved, that the country
part of the pariih at leaft was not decreaicd. The largeft farm wat let between
(he yean 1 784 and l^%%% and the nmbett in thf country |iad incrc^fcd in thofe
(ew yeart 2% foals. The diminution is }.i-incip;(lly in the town of 4-iloa, which
has indeed been moft rapid and aftoniihingi and can only be accounte>( for, by the
failure of the great diftilleries in the neighbourhood, who purchafcd large quan-
tities of malt made in this town 1 which bufmeft employed a e«>nfiderab!e nvm«
ber of hands in carrying it on, who were fuddenly thrown oot of employmcBt;
f nd much about the fame time, a cotton work was fct up at Down, which iy not
above 10 or i% miles to the weftward of this parifli ; and the report, of their
giving great en. oungrment, to the young as well as the old, probably induced
pnany to emigrate from this pariih, aod thereby has occafioncd a temporary de*
creafc : But as the collieries, and other branches of trade, are in a very fiourifll*
M^.% way, it is nrobable that a fliort tiipe will replace the deficicnc}.

«5t

Statpfkai jkcouni

maiijy HbUandy Portngd, '8oe. Gtds «re -Ae grett artkde of
expoitatkm; 6,000 torn tre mawoaSLj eacpotted^ with ytltrable
qoftoihies of bottles from tbe glafs-faoufe. Hxe tmpotttttoii
geoeralljr coafifts of ytrj confidetableqaAiititiies of flax* lint*
feed, tod other trticles from Hollttid ; of g^tio, and wood of
tn Iciiids, iron, &c. die produce of the northern conntries *-^
The EiLctfe here is coodofted by t fupervifor md 4 offioers ;
tad iht retenue, though it is much dimioiflied^ fiace the fsflnre
of the great diftflleries, is yet confiderable, being ftbont 5,ooc3«
Steriing. When tbe diftflleries were ftonrifliing, thtj fbmei-
timcs paid 23,000]. of duty in 6 weeks time. •

fofl Offlcc*'^Tht poft office has been eihiblilbed for np*
wards of 30 years. Formerly there was a mnner between
thii and Stirling : now there is a regidar poft office eftablifli*
ed. The poftage of a fingle lettar from Edinburgh is 3d. ;
from London iod« A poft has lately been extended to Kin«
cardine ; and from thence to Culrofs, Damfermline, and the
Ferries. This is a grest convenience. Upwards of 300 1«
of aminal reredoe arifes from tht poft office*

Hiriton and JR^sZ-^Tbe principal heritor of the parifii is
Mr. EasUNC of Marr* He refides almoft always at Alloa,
and pays the greateft attention to every fcheme of improve*
ment and police. Next to him, in valuation, is General
AB£Rcaoii9T of Tullibody. When in the country, he refides
at his father's houle of Bnicefield, in the neighbooriog parilh
of Clackmannan, and contributes very cheerfully tveiy affift^
ance for the good of the parifh, that lies in his power. Lord

CAtHCARl's

* ^om an abfirad of the tonntge^ taken from tbe snchonge doty at tbe Aor^
ti AHoa, it appean, that in 1 774, the number of Ihipt, which had been in the
harbwir, were SS5\ the tonnage 20/536. la 1791, tbcJhijuirCTe 77* • *^
tonnage 4!^ ^4,

tklSi^^f^ vah^aftioa ift vorj £019}}, his pi»iiicip4 pi^p^ly
Ipfig iff t^e pt^riib of Clftckauiwaa i but. his homfe. ai>d plcai*
^^ groFwds ar?. 19 iMs imriibf ai»di ke frc^neot^y cefidcs
m^qg il^« W# aN( »Imj» fl^uch iodeblcd la hU Lor^flilp^
£o|r M^ advice A9<l «lfift>oce wl^iv in the ^ooacsj^ Lord, Ai.va«
XfStfWt **^J* <mt of tie ^vH^ givea Ha only iIm be;iefit
of a teadj and ehterful concurrence^ with eyery tnaafiic^ pior
pofcd by the refiding heritors. A)l thcfe gentlemen hold coa«
gjeff^W^ pfloperty fa fUbes {WiAm* Th^ vtbicd rent is
*JM%\* ^9^ **• 8wtc>* . Tiie ripM ^mt is jprobablj about

p^^^^lUe jooif of ibepliieef and tho adnniniftratipn oljufi
th»^ %t^ » tbiihaiidA of hk. Mii^aor*^ jnAices of the peace, and
^ fc»tyE'*p^ ^'^** ^ ^y *^^ flleriff^epote for dii9

» tb# a<Jsbi)torii»g csovnty :of.8lirUog. Be appoints his
i kjtkp(^; ^ ^^ coBfta«<fy xefidts here, who> keeps hi^

urts io this town. Xbe qMirl«r £iffio9s^ and ^et nac^ting^

_ either by the juftices of the peace, or flieriff, are held
. , CO0Q9 ^^^^^ ^^ Gloickaiaiiwn, about fl miles diflant*
Thwc i» • l**^ h>>l"«* wmcdi lo« the prcprielor of the eftate

Hl*ir. Hff d«cfdfa oa pei;ty oiFeaces, and debts not exceed*
f wM . and Mg^^^' ^^^ ftjsnts and ceflesi^ and other matters
^^ iJj\iritbi»th« toirn and hv<i9ky^''^^Aa sdmiral court was
fif kep' ^^ ^^ virtua of a cammiHaon from tlie lord
^^fkitti^ of S«oiland^ The jurifdidion of this court
^\^g,Qlft.tb^- bridge of Stirling to Pcttycur, near King^
^^ the 00^^ ^*** ®^ ^**® Forth, and from Stirling Bridge
J***^! ?^fj jlcuck on fhe fouth. For fome time pnft, no dc-
^ • \a$^*^^ granted, and of courfe no court kept. The
^ e ^ gdfBiral Qourt. has been complained of, as a very^
^^\jj orievaft^* For want of this, every titds trifling
^''''^-hich happens at the port, muft be carried before the
W^ '- ' A-dmiralty

646 StiUi/Ucdl Account

Admiralty Court at Edinl>argh, at t Terjcontitoable expeMc^
Befides, a moft fetious injurj Teems likely to atifie, froitt cfad'
(hipmiiaers cafting their bailaft into the rirer, without an^
court to check them ; which, in procefs of -tkae, mud itit^r*
rupt the navigation, and hurt the public na w^lt Ks individaU*
It Is thought, that an admiral court wotild Q>eedil)r put a ilop
to this complaint. • ■ ' • '

Serviceff ^^.-^ASI kinds of p^tfoifal itrvidts ftom tenants
may be. faid to be abo^iOied, as thofe on the efttte of TuUi^
body are feldom or never exaded *• The feuera in the town
are obliged to turn out, in cafe of any accident at the dam*
head of Oartmofn, Stc. Thid cannot well be lobked on is a
great hardfhip, as moft of the property would be confiderahly
affeded by aby inundation. Tbe family of Marr were found
by the Court of Si^on^ after « Ipng litigation, to have a right
to draw cuftom for goods palBng through the town, as they
were obliged to keep up the At'eetSj $co,

RoaJs. — The flatute labour for the roads, is, as iu ofhet
places, under the direfiton of the joftices of 'the peace. The
cotter^s labour is converted into money, and fometimes the
farmer's carriages. The fcotintty, for fonie time paft, has been
amufed with fcbemes for turnpike roods 1 and perhaps this
has occafiooed a remifihefs in the exaftion of the ftatute work*
Owing to this, and the many heavy carriages while the dif-
tillerics were flonrifhing, the roads are exceedingly bad. It

* When Mr.f nsfciMi relieved hi^ tenants of the thith^e^he Kkdiifed to hmtfe

* 4one the fiunc with the mukure of the malt, from the brewers ki thi haitony «f

Alloa; hut M that ymt in fuch a namber of hands, and.thcTe continuldiy chao^p^

log, he foand it impra&icablc. The brewers flrongly litigated the point ahoat

SO years ago. U was at length decided ia farovr of tJle proprietor.

of Alloa. 641

i% not doubted bat that fome reform^ in a matter fo interefting
to the public, will foon take place.

I
Chtrcb, l^r.--The church of Alloa was repaired and eii'*
larged in 1680, bj virtue of a commiffion from the archbifiiop
of St. Andrews. Its length is 65 feet, excluiive of Mr.
£dkine*s aifle ; and the breadth 30 feet, befides X2 feet of ad-
dition to the north. At the weft end it has 2 rows of gal-
leries. It is now too fmall and incommodious for the numer-
ous inhabitants of this parifli ; for it is extremely crowded
when there are 900 hearers, which is often the cafe. There
have been many deliberations about building a new one, for
upwards of 30 years paft. To this the heritors are ftrongly
encouraged, by a donation lately made of i,20ol. by Lady
Charlotte Erskine* ; who alfo left 800I. Sterling, the in-
tereft of which is to be applied for an affiftant minifter, whofe
income altogether now exceeds 70I. per annum. — The prefent
€hurch has a good appearance to the fouth. The front is of
hewn ftone. There is a (latue in a niche of St. Mungo,
Vol. VIII. 4 M holding

' « This fum her Lady (hip, (who was a dauj^hter of Charles Earl of Hop t ton,
and widow of T somas Lord Eeskinb, fan of the laft Earl of Marr), ge-
neroufly bequeathed for feats to the poor, and to fuch as had no legal rightf to
any. The latter, however, were to pay a moderate rent for them ; part of
which fum was to go towards augmenting the falary of the aflift|^ rain-fter.
Many years ago, an afUftant miniller was eftabliQiad here, by a ^P^ion from
Mr. Johnston E, a merchant in Alloa, who left fome houfes in the town, the rent
of which, with the intereft of 600I., that he hadin the hands of a company of
merchants in Glafgow, to be applied for the maintenance of an afiiftant mlnifter.
The company was diflblved many years ago ; and the 6ocl. was allowed to re-
main in the hands of one of the partners, who had a good land eftatc, but who
unfortunately became bankrupt fome years afterwards, and the whole was loft,
and nothing left for the afiiftant miniftcr, but the rents of the houfes. This lofs
was replaced by the worthy Lady Cbarlotte Erskine.

&t2

Statifiical Account

holding an open faosdk * ; and another of MoSBS, |)iittuig off
his flioes before the burning bnOiy with, the text from flxcdus
iii. 5. The church ftands on a gently rifing ground, on the
V9^& fide of the gard«os of Alloa, and is fct off fay Come old
trees near it f •

Stipend, f/^.-<-^The viflual ia conrerted, on an average of
25 jears prior to 1760,' and Sj years prior' to 17^$'

1760. 1790.

Bq'M. Per Bolh.

s, i. lUhs /. d, Itths
."ichal.z:,^! barley, 10 lo 10 16 4 I
1 do. —48 n cal, 10 3 » 14 a 3
Money, 400 Scotch, - - -

Vicarage, 71I. 36. ad. Scotch,
Fen rent of a houfc, i il. Scotch,
Comoiuoion clcmenrt, 3ol. Scotch,

A. B. The feu w.s afcercajned in 1760.
Total, -

befidea two carts of coals per week, craig'-kavcy L e. paying
for the collier's labour. Part of the vicarage is paid out of

the

X760.

1790.

#. /. iL litis

/. /. /I2f&»

If 8 10 8

%% » 10 8

a4 1% 8

3.4 3 0

33 6 8

5 18 7 »

5 1.8 7 a

000

100

6 13 4

*I3 4

88 0 I 10

ro7 4 5 10

* St. MuNoo 19 reckoned the tutelary faint in this, as in many other parifbcs
of ScotUnd. He was a native of Culrofs, and is faid to have been educated by
St. SERVAStJs, commonly called St. Serf, This laft feems to have been an iti-
nerary apoAle, who Cor Came time carried on his f).>iritual funAions at Tullibody,
a part of this parifli, aad moft probably devolved the charge upon jSt. Mungo.

f Alexander Lord Erskine, in the 15th pf King James IV. (1503) found-
ed a cha|M^er^ within the parifli kirk of Alloa, in honour of the holy and un-
divided IViity, Father, Son, and Holy Ghoft, of the bleffed Virgin Mary, and
St. Kentigern, for which he mortified a certain annuity, to maintain a fit and
qualified perfon to celebrate «.*ivifie fervicc at St. Kathcrinc*8 altar, &c. Ac.

% By decree of the court of ticnds, 13th February 1 793. the ftipend is aug-
mented to IX chalders, half meal, and half bear, to be paid at the nx/i of tbe
fiar prices of Clackmannan. The mode of at^mentatioa is ocw : The 400!.
Scotch, which made ,part of the (Upend, is now converted injto 4 chaldcro ; »
chalders arc added, which, with the s formerJj paid, make x i is all : Sol.

Scotch,

tf Alloa. 643

^ beighboortng parifhes* and by fuch a tamt>er of bands,
^ fliflke^ tbe coUeftion of it both very difagreeable and difH-
colt. Mr. Erikine has relieved both the minifter and tenants of
the grcateft part of the vicarage on his eftatc. The glebe is
about n Scotch acres, (v^ry Nearly e^ual to 14 Eoglifli),
of fertile gtouod. Formerly it was over-run with weeds ; buti
if laying it down in grafo^ and pafturin^, it now yields fine
crops. The grcateft part of the glebe lies clofe to the town,
jjj the retoMn<J^r ^^^y ««*r it. The manfe, which was re-
paired in i?7^» " beautifully ituated at the head of John's
Street, and has a garden adjoining of about Inilf an acre*— *By

the E»<^ of Marr's forfeiture in 17 15, the Crown is patron

There is «» Anliburgher and a Bnr^her meeting- houfe in the
^. l^tli well attended, and the {>eopk are much improve in
the civilities of life. There is likewife a chapel of the Scotch
IT ifcopal cfeurch. Their nusnber is imall ; but they have .
. jpjoed by feveral of the glafe-houle work people, whofe
4 M a cducatioa

, fpy communion elements, is continued : and 71I. 3*. id. Scotch, vicarage,

fc »nd vf^^- 'I'lic additional 2 chalders may feem a fmall augmccta'ion

P* . g J parish ; bnt the convcrfion of the money into grain makes it con-

ble 9oi V^^ ^ fecurity for the ftipend** riiiiig with the other neceflaries of

the Rcforni*^*»on» *^c (Upends of the Protcftant clergy were fixed, ta.bc
he rztc of fo many chalders of vidua!, (the general term in Scotland for
^ ' A of graiD)i part of which was paid in kind, and part in money, convert-
*^ x^^ldcTt in the rich coumies, at lool. Scotch the chaldcr, and at 8ol,

i*"^ - the left fertile ones. It is greatly to be regretted, that the whole fti-
^ uot paid in viduil ; as by that means the vahic of them would have

^ J- neac^y an equal pace with the value of eftates. This method fiiould
i^* ^ bfolutely fixed ; or if, from local fituations, it (hould be very iocon-
vf^ ^Yic clergy, to receive the whole in vidua!, one third might be convert-

V** money ; and the value of the bolls Ihould be eiUmatcd by an average r £
t^ ■** ^ j^d at thp end of the aj years, a new convcrfion might be taken ; but
^S ^^ *-^ u {hoold be made, unlefs the price of viduul («. c, th? medium price ot'
P^*^' ^ xxialt)i diiTcrcd from the former pne 6d. pence per boll.

^«y*^

644 Stati/lical Account

education leads them to prefer that form of worflbip. Th^
five clergymen, who are in town, live in the greateft harmon j
and good intercourfe with one another f •

Schools and Donations. ^^h^tt is a nnmerons and fiourifh*
ing fchooly conduced by a re£ior and doBor^ (i. e. a mafter and
tiflier), both of whom have very good apartments. The
rcdor takes boarders, and gives them every private afBftance.
The pious Lady Charlotte £rskin£ left 300I. Sterling for
educating poor children, and having them cathechifed on Sun-
day evenings ; which, according to the diredion of Mr. £rs-
XiKE, to wKofe care it was committed, has been begun, and
promifes great fuccefs, under the diredion of the dodor, who
aiTembles them, with all who choofe to attend on the Sunday
evenings* This meeting the minifters occafionally attend, and
mark the progrefs of the young, when the moft diligent are
rewarded with little books. Het Ladyihip likewife bequeath-
ed 400 1. towards aflifiing the fchools of the colliery. The
charitable donations of this lady ought not to be omitted in
this place, though they are deeply engraven in the hearts of
many. Children of all feds have accefs tothe benefit of thefe
fchools. There are likewife feveral private fchools, where fome
of the younger and poorer fcholars are educated. In the village
of Tullibody, there is a numerous fchool, patronized by Gene-
ral Abercromby. In the colliery there are two Ichools, to
accommodate what are called the Upper and lower IVorls, i. e«
the Colly land and ^lloa. All thefe fchools are well attended,
and promife much public benefit.

Mineral

j Dr. Jaiix» Fordtce, author of the Sermoin to Toyng Wtmen^ was laft m\nU
fter of thin parilh. Hr \\\i> admitted in OAoler 1753, and went to London ia
1760, when he was facceeded hj the prefcnt incumbent.

of Alloa. 64^

Miiural Waters and FqffUs,^^T\ittt are many fpringSf
ftrongly impregnated with fteel. One of them is within the
houfe of Alloa ; but it is not known that any of them have
been'fu£Sciently analyfed, to fpeak of their efi^s. Thert are
various quarries in the parifli ; fome very indiflferent, a few
very good. One of them has been wrought upwards of xoo
years* It is a remarkably good ftone in every particular, ex-
cepting the colour^ which is a faint red ; but it endures all
kinds of fatigue. A very great quantity has been made ufe
ofy although it lies very deep in the earthy and of courfe is ex-
penfive to work. There is another quarry on the eaft fide
of the pariibi of a good quality, and uncommonly white. There
are feams of coal underneath each of thefe quarries. There
is a field of yellow clay, or ochre, excellently adapted for fine
bricks. It fometimes filipplies the place of lime on the out-
fides of houfes i but its various qualities have not yet beea
afcertained.

Wild J^nimalj.^^The wild animals are the fame as are tom<*
mon to all the Low Country : hares, rabbits, foxes, badgers^
otters, /oumartSf or polecats, zadjloats^ or ermines. Thefe laft
are very rare. There are no wildcats. The birds moft numerous
are partridges. Some few quails and land rails are fometimea
feen in autumn ; but they are abimdant in the breeding fea<«
fon. The whiftling or grey plovers alight fometimes on the
high grounds in fpring, and likewife the dotterels, both on
their way to the Ochils. The bittern is become very fcarce.
Curlews frequent the fide of the Forth. There are few herons
that breed here. There are thruihes, blackbirds, woodlarks,
bull finches, and all the finch tribe ; fl&y larks, buntings, yel-
low hammers, and waterwagtails, white and yellow; in fummer,
ftone*chatterers, and various kind:> of fwalluws; in winter, the
feveral kinds of fieldfares^ woodcocks and (hipes, and fome-
times

04^ Staffed Account

times fnow birals. The lapwia^, or green plover, bteeds dH the
high grounds; but rs cutlivation tdirtiices^ cfaetr ntioibers vl.
fiblydecreafe. TTw boodj, or Royfton crowv h-eeds here. Jack-
daws, crows, m«gptes aM ravelM are often feen^ bat dt> not
breed. There are dCb hawks, kings-fiOiers, Cuidlarks, M^ter
crows, and feme few of the kmg eared bats^ owls and fereecb
•wis.

wAsiff^Wmy.— About a mile eaft of the town, there is k
Hfrge tipright ftone, '7 feet 4 mcbes above tile frnface of the
ground. It is three feet broad, avd thought to be very deep
in the earth. The old people ufe to {peak of the figure of a
tnan on horfeback, whidi they had feea oa it. If tmj thing
'of that kind, or letters (as it is fard), have been fttrt^ttlf t>b-
^nred, Ihey are now totally effirced *.

j^ncient Families and Eminent Per/ons,^JThtve are no fa*
milies of any confequence now exifting^ which were originally
-of Hiis parifli« The branch t>f the AnckCROMBiEs, which fet-
tM at Tallibody towards the end of laft oenniry, are defcend-
ed from the family of Birkenboig in BanfiUbite, where it has
tfeesi long eftabKfiied.

The Lords Cathcart only made this the feat of their re-
-fidence, upon parting with the great eftcte and beautiful place
of Anchincruive, which they poflefied for ^ges in Ayr.ihire.

Their

* WIku the t(Qiicent farrti wak cocldihi^, upwards 6f «o yemrs vgo, t ditch
was made ckfe to the ftone, when mady human bones were difcowcred^ which
|>roves, that a battle or flcirmifli 1)ad fume time or other taken place near that
fpot ; and probably fome inan of eminence was buried hard by, as it was a
common practice of the Pl<5ls en fuch occafidns. Thdre arc two Hones rcfem-
bling this one, in the neighbouring parilh of Ah-a, at no great diftance from Ihc
church, bttc not doTe to oae anodieri 1 facy are both near the foot of the
Pchik

tf AUoa. ^47

Their poflEeffions ia this* and the adjoinbg parKhes, delcende^
to t/e latf Lord Gathcart from hU grandmotlusF Ladj Shaw ;
\irhofe huiband ^d purchafed thena« ifl the keginnfpg of this'
century, at a judicial fale, from the Braces of. Oackmatinan.
Neither can the Er^kincs be faid to be originallj of this
partili, aHhougli tliejr got the lands, which they are DOWpoff^iSed
of; in the reign of Kiag Robert Bruoe^ Thej were originaBjr
fettled in Renfrewifaire. They fucceeded by c^ female, in 146 j>
to t|te earldom of Marr ; hut it was not until the year ijSt
, that they got poffeffion of it. It was at that time declared xrt
parliament, that, in juftioe, the earldom of Marr belonged to
John Lord Erskine, who, in the year 1571, was elefied re-
gent of Scotlind, on the death of the Earl of LenaoSc. How
honourably he fiUect tbat troublefbme iiation, is recorded by
all ow: hiflorians*. Unfortunately he was cut off by a fudden
death. The famous George Buchanan has celebrated his
virtues in an elegant epitaph.

Thefe matters, however, belong rather to bijiory than to a

JlatifAcal account ; but it would be improper to omit met\r

. tioning the lad E arl of Marr, who had a great turn for enw

^ belliihing the country. LOA0 Hadihgxon, in his Tfeatift

• ♦ The family of '^rskine have often been honoured with having their infant
fovcrcigns intru^led to their care, (particularly King Jame& V. the unfortjnato
Qneen MARY,jAME3yi.andhi8fonPrinceHENRY),whichfacredtruft they t.'oH
faithfully difcharged. They have fome curious papers relative to thofc tranf-
a^ftions. — The regent's fon was brought up with King James VI He was ap-
pointed anibafTador to England a Ihort time before Elizabeth's death. The am-
ba/Tador's prefent is (lill prefcrved in the family : It is a bafon and ewer, re<-
inarkublc for its workmanfhip, and the elegance of its (hape. Lord Marr, in hit
cmbrfly, is fuppofed to have contributed towards the peaceable acceflion of King:
Jame< to the throne of England. The Duke of Sullv mentions him in his
incniv)irs, and calls him hi& fiicrd. Qn the Duke's return to France, the famoys
Henry IV. wrote a letter to Lord Marr,'whi':h is ftill prefcrvcdin the archivet
of the famii/.

648 Statl/iical Account

m$ Forefl Trees^ fajs, " li was the hte EarL of Marr, JhaC
** firft introduced the wildernefs way of planting among us*
'* and very much improved the tafte of our gentlemen, who
** foon followed his example." And the gardens at Alloa,
which were laid out according to ^ the fafhion of the times,
were long viilted and admired. The Earl, unhappily for his
countrj, himfelf and familj, was principally concerned in
the rebellion 171 5. But iVhatever errors he maj have fallen
into, it cannot be denied, by anj one who reads the papers
be has left behind him, that he had the general improvement
of his countrj greatlj at heart. His onlj amufement, during
the long exile in which he died, was to draw plans and de«
figns, for the good of that much loved countrj from which
be was banilhed; and there is one paper*, dated in 1718,

which

* Speaking of the public works oecciTary for the improvement of Scotland ,
Lord Marr dya, ** All way« of improving Edinburgh ihould be thought on :
*' as, in particular, making a large bridge, of three arches, over the grounds be*
** twizt the North Loch and Phyfic Gardeif, from the High Street at Halker-
^ ftone*s Wynd to the M'lltnrfey Hill, where mat y fine ftreett might be built,
** as the inhabitants increafed. The accefs to them would be eafy on all hand«,
** and the fituation would be agreeable and convenient, hating a noble profpe^
** of all the fine ground towards the fea, the frith of Forth, and coaA of Fife.
" One- large and long ftrect, in a ftraight line, where the Long Gate it now ;
** on one fide of it would be a fine opportunity for gardens down to the North
** JL«ch ; and one on the other fide, towards Broughton. No boufes to be on
** the bridge, the breadth of the North Loch ; .but, felling the places nn the
" ends of the bridge for houfcs,and the vaults and arches below for warchoufes
" and cellars, the charge of the bridge might be near defrayed.

** Another bridge might alfo be made on the other fide of the town, and al-
" mod as ufeful and commodious as that on the north. The place where it
*« could be moft cafily made is St. Mary's ^ynd and the Pleafants. The hollow
" there is not fo deep as where the other bridge is propofed ; fo that it is thought
*• tw»' ftories of rches might raifc it near upon a level with the ftreei at the
" head of St« Mary's Wynd. Betwixt the fouth cud of the Pleafaots and the

Poucr- -

ef Alloa. ({4^

ivluch takes notice of the improreliieiits of the metropolis*
that kave been ikioe eanied intoexecation^ and which deferves
to be more generally known.

The

* Pottcr^Row, and from thence to Brifta Street, and by the back 6f the wall
^ at Herriot's Hofpital, there are tfse fitnatiom for honfei and gardens^ Thero
*■ would be fine aTenoet to the (own, and outlets from it for iaxwg^ wa]kin|;g
** &c. &c. by thefe bridges; and Edinburgh, from being a bad incommodioQa
" lituation, would become a very beneficial and convenient one : A^d, to make
<« it fiill more fo. a branch of that river, called the Water of Leith, might, it is
■* thought, be brought from fomewhere about the Colt Bridge, to fill and, nut
<* thrdbgh the North Loch, which would be of great advanuge to the coBveni-
'* cnce, beauty, deanlinels and healthf alneis of the towru

** The making a canal betwixt the rivers of Forth and Clyde would be a
K great improvement to Scotland, as well as of great fervice to the trade of the
« whole iiland, efpecially the India trade, by (aving 1 daiigerous long pailag»
•< round Britain, fince, by that canal the weft and eafr fea would be joined.
•• The way for leading of thii canal is from near Glafgow, by KiUyth, to the
ic month of the river Carron below Falkirk. It is practicable, as Mr. Adair,
« Mr. Smith, Mr. M'Gill, and Mr. Sorocold judged, who travelled twice over
*■ the ground, with a view to this work. From the hills of Campfie, and the
« river Carron they thought there ^ould be water fufficient gol for filling the
*' canal ; and that, by the afllfiance of feveral fluices near to Olafgow and fome
^ in other parts, the canal would be made pradicable for flat bottomed boats of
^ a very confiderable burden. They computed that 30,0001. Seeding might da
** the work; but, (hould it coft the double, it would be well beftowed, and be
«* foon repaid by the profit arifing from the canal."

Having faid fo much of this unfortunate nobleman, it is no more than juftico
to the inhabitants of this and the neighbouring parifiies, to mention theiir
behaviour to him during his exile, while the eftate continued under the dire^on
of the commiffioncrs of the forfeited eftates. They contributed confiderably
towards aflifting him under hii misfortunes. Kor {bould an inOance of gratitude
pafs unnoticed :' The ^I, whofe tadc for architedure was gelierally known,
introduced the celebrated Mr. Gi»m into bufinefr,the beginning of this century.
Mr, Gibbs dying without children, left the greateft part of the fortune he had
acquired to Lean EasKiMB, the £ds of his firil pauoO.

Vol. VIII, 4N

6s6 Statlftical AccoHntf tsfc*

. The foUowiog is a copy of the compUmeotarj poem (above
mentioned), wrote hj George Buchanan upon Johv EAaL of
Mark, who was regent of Scotland, diiring the minoritj df
King Jamks VI.

JoAMHi AaiflkiMS, Comifi Makku^ Scotoadm Prsbzou

Si ^t A&isKiNUM snaiioret per bella ferocem,

i^e gnwem nuUi, tohpore utroqne pium ;
Si qaifl opct fine h&Ut animwin fine fraude, carenteiQ

Rebut in tmbiguit fufpidone fidem ;
Si quod ob has dotet, fsTis jadata procellia

Fugxt in illiot pacria fcffa finupi;
Vera qnidem memoret, fed um & propria : landes

Qui pariter petet haauniu & alcer erit*
lUud ei propriam dk, Ungo quod im ordine ^itia

Mil odium aut li^or quod rcfrefacodat habet*

\ t

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Full text of "The statistical account of Scotland. Drawn up from the communications of the ministers of the different parishes"

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